I leave my blades intact on the machine when I sharpen - much less fiddle but it does make clamping/holding the whole machine more awkward. I am not confident enough to use an angle grinder, instead I use a chainsaw file or dremel tool with a chainsaw sharpening bit. Oh, and a pair of reading glasses so I can clearly see that the angle that I'm sharpening on follows the original angle. If your blades are clean and you find it hard to see the angle your sharpening them, just grab a textacolor and run it across the blade edges - that way you can easily check the angle your sharpening on - works great on secateurs etc too.
I've used an electric B & D trimmer for years. It's been a workhorse but I no longer am, and wanted to make my job easier. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG Around the corners, the small side yard etc. was a pain to run the cord out to, so I bought this thinking I'd use it for touch-ups and hard to reach places. Well, I haven't used the corded one since!This is so light weight and so much easier. It has all the power I need because I start wearing down after about 20 minutes and I haven't run out of battery yet. It takes about two hours to charge. I've used it about twice a week for a month and still have line left too. My favorite feature is the blade inside the shield that keeps the line trim to where I don't even have to think about it. You can see from my pic that it's been heavily used and I probably should clean it more often. Very happy with it.
They are but I have since moved on to the battery trimmers of HSA 66, HSA 86 and HSA 94T. Equally powerful, lighter without the noise the vibration. Check out my recent videos of me using these trimmers.
thanks for the nice video, enjoyed your technique. I'm sure there is a bunch of arm chair warriors in the comment section who are critical of your personal protective equipment, but i'm not here to hate, i know you have done this dozens of times. So this is not to you but to anyone out there that is watching; whenever you are using an angle grinder one should wear full coverage proper eye protection, not just regular glasses, to prevent the hot metal sparks from landing in your eye. And since you were using a flap disk it isn't as crucial, but the way you hold it so close to you in your sweat pants and sandals would certainly be dangerous if it was a regular grinding wheel or especially a cut off disk. thanks for listening!
Great tips on sharpening hedge trimmer blades. Do you need to oil the blades? I always spray light oil before and after trimming. It seems like when the two pieces are separated that a little 3 in 1 oil would be the time to oil them for a smooth and rust resistant surface? Plus I would put some grease around all of the gears and moving metal pieces while you are into it anyway. A glob sitting there in one spot won't do much except collect dirt. A little grease is better than no grease though. Good job. Great video.
80 gritt. Check out my other video where I use a sharpening stone. Its more time consuming but you wear out your blades less and stays sharp for longer
They are plain steel and they will have surface rust after they get wet so it's important to spray lubricant such as WD40 to repel the moisture. Tks a look at my recent video where I've adjust my technique.
@@PlantVisionz You are no kidding on the rust. Loaned to a friend & I had to picked up =blades seized Rust just as bad as a car's rotors sitting after a rain for a few days.
@@angelisone that's so sad. You can clean out the rust with a wire brush head attached to a drill like the latest video. Hope your hedger is working fine now
Maybe you or someone knows a solution or answer. I have same mode. Able to start the trimmer in cold. But as soon as I placed the throttle in the up position, it dies or pulling the cable will not start, what's the problem? Blades are removed because they are seized.
Ahh that sounds like you have a dirty exhaust which chocked with carbon. Remove the exhaust and give it a solid roast using a blow torch till smoking hot. When cool to touch, blow out all the chard carbon. Would be best to replace the gasket that is between the engine and exhaust as well. If you need a tutorial.. DM on my Instagram: Plant visionz and I can do a reel video for you
@@PlantVisionz That is the Spark Arrestor on the bottom of HS45, right? Darns, that's is seized up like my blades. So much for loaning it to a friend that left it out in the wood.
@@angelisone yes the spark arrestor is on the left side of the machine. I agree with u.. That tools should not be loaned out especially expensive one. The engine is running fine. It's just the rust that is causing the blades to seize. Would be cheaper to get new ones
@@PlantVisionz Let me try to pull the spark arrester when I get home after retrieving my car that I also let them used. Hendrika Kwan, thank you for reply back. You are also right it might be best to buy the blades.
Yessir, wd40 is a petroleum product and it is harmful to plants. Fluid Film lubricant is a tad bit expensive so when I don't have any I use another non toxic oil or some other organic lubricant on my hedger blades.
Simple Green works well too, since it's biodegradable and safe on plants. I've never had a problem with it for cleaning my hedge shears and hand pruners. You have to let it sit for a few minutes, if it's heavy build up you'll have to repeat it x2 or x3 times.
@@PlantVisionz just use a 1:1 mix of simple Green to Water in the spray bottle ( Home depot sells a gallon with the mix bottle for $12.95, it last for 5 years!). I've had it dry up but it didn't cause rust on my blades, and used a toothbrush or a nylon bristle to scrub the dried up build up. Those brass brushes are really steel coated with brass, and will wear out your teeth. And a few drops of oil to coat it after the cleaning, will help reduce the sap from building up the next cutting.
Oh Young Buck, I feel the pain... working on the back of a horse, with a farmer's hammer. You need a healing bench youngin' so you can take it apart, and leave in pieces until you forget where the Jeezless parts go. Thanks for the video,,,, much appreciated.
its strange how everybody who sharpens blades with an angle grinder never shows how the machine cuts after sharpening.THATS BECAUSE YOU CANNOT GET THE CORRECT ANGLE BY USING SUCH AN AGGRESSIVE MACHINE.
Gotcha, I will do a video at which state of the prune, I will decide to sharpen the blades. I have since moved on to battery tools and have uploaded my latest sharpening video, do have a look
Actually you are right about it, the wide of the cutting side is gradually reduced. Check out my latest sharpening video where I have now used a small sharpening stone instead.
11.41 shoot sparks in your gearbox not a good idea! Also removing the rust proof coating not recommended shortening life of blades and grease between the blades and cams will prolong life of blades, get yourself a 10mm ring spanner.
thanks for your comments, greatly appreciated. my blades last me around 2 years and I swap them as the no longer have the cutting precision as before. that is fine with me as i do a lot!! of hedge work. Do u mean a dremel ? (Hendrika)
@@verwolfpack dealer support is important for stuff that doesn't work...I wouldn't trade my Maruyama hedge trimmers for two Stihl trimmers...as the man says-to each their own
I leave my blades intact on the machine when I sharpen - much less fiddle but it does make clamping/holding the whole machine more awkward. I am not confident enough to use an angle grinder, instead I use a chainsaw file or dremel tool with a chainsaw sharpening bit. Oh, and a pair of reading glasses so I can clearly see that the angle that I'm sharpening on follows the original angle. If your blades are clean and you find it hard to see the angle your sharpening them, just grab a textacolor and run it across the blade edges - that way you can easily check the angle your sharpening on - works great on secateurs etc too.
awesome...thank you for your wonderful comment :)
Nice tutorial thanks for sharing it helps a lot done
Most welcome
very comprehensive , i especially like showing the audience the gears and general maintenance.
Looking forward to it mate (hendrika)
I've used an electric B & D trimmer for years. It's been a workhorse but I no longer am, and wanted to make my job easier. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG Around the corners, the small side yard etc. was a pain to run the cord out to, so I bought this thinking I'd use it for touch-ups and hard to reach places. Well, I haven't used the corded one since!This is so light weight and so much easier. It has all the power I need because I start wearing down after about 20 minutes and I haven't run out of battery yet. It takes about two hours to charge. I've used it about twice a week for a month and still have line left too. My favorite feature is the blade inside the shield that keeps the line trim to where I don't even have to think about it. You can see from my pic that it's been heavily used and I probably should clean it more often. Very happy with it.
They are but I have since moved on to the battery trimmers of HSA 66, HSA 86 and HSA 94T. Equally powerful, lighter without the noise the vibration. Check out my recent videos of me using these trimmers.
thanks for the nice video, enjoyed your technique. I'm sure there is a bunch of arm chair warriors in the comment section who are critical of your personal protective equipment, but i'm not here to hate, i know you have done this dozens of times. So this is not to you but to anyone out there that is watching; whenever you are using an angle grinder one should wear full coverage proper eye protection, not just regular glasses, to prevent the hot metal sparks from landing in your eye. And since you were using a flap disk it isn't as crucial, but the way you hold it so close to you in your sweat pants and sandals would certainly be dangerous if it was a regular grinding wheel or especially a cut off disk. thanks for listening!
Tks for the comments...I have improved over the years
Great video thank you mate first time doing it. I appreciate you from Australia I’m going to sub!!!
Thanks for the sub and enjoy the rest of my content
Great tips on sharpening hedge trimmer blades. Do you need to oil the blades? I always spray light oil before and after trimming. It seems like when the two pieces are separated that a little 3 in 1 oil would be the time to oil them for a smooth and rust resistant surface? Plus I would put some grease around all of the gears and moving metal pieces while you are into it anyway. A glob sitting there in one spot won't do much except collect dirt. A little grease is better than no grease though. Good job. Great video.
Use lanolin based spray called lanotec. Safe
Thanks for the compliment and your valuable input
Thank you
Best background soundtrack on youtube 🐦🦜
Tks for the compliment mate... Would be awesome if you checked out the rest of my recent vids.. Lots of awesome music too
What kind of wheel do polish your blades with
80 gritt. Check out my other video where I use a sharpening stone. Its more time consuming but you wear out your blades less and stays sharp for longer
Are these blades stainless steel?
If not after sanding or grinding and those blades see moisture /or water, then those blade will rust.
They are plain steel and they will have surface rust after they get wet so it's important to spray lubricant such as WD40 to repel the moisture. Tks a look at my recent video where I've adjust my technique.
@@PlantVisionz You are no kidding on the rust. Loaned to a friend & I had to picked up =blades seized
Rust just as bad as a car's rotors sitting after a rain for a few days.
@@angelisone that's so sad. You can clean out the rust with a wire brush head attached to a drill like the latest video. Hope your hedger is working fine now
Maybe you or someone knows a solution or answer. I have same mode. Able to start the trimmer in cold.
But as soon as I placed the throttle in the up position, it dies or pulling the cable will not start, what's the problem?
Blades are removed because they are seized.
Ahh that sounds like you have a dirty exhaust which chocked with carbon. Remove the exhaust and give it a solid roast using a blow torch till smoking hot. When cool to touch, blow out all the chard carbon. Would be best to replace the gasket that is between the engine and exhaust as well. If you need a tutorial.. DM on my Instagram: Plant visionz and I can do a reel video for you
@@PlantVisionz That is the Spark Arrestor on the bottom of HS45, right?
Darns, that's is seized up like my blades. So much for loaning it to a friend that left it out in the wood.
@@angelisone yes the spark arrestor is on the left side of the machine. I agree with u.. That tools should not be loaned out especially expensive one. The engine is running fine. It's just the rust that is causing the blades to seize. Would be cheaper to get new ones
@@PlantVisionz Let me try to pull the spark arrester when I get home after retrieving my car that I also let them used. Hendrika Kwan, thank you for reply back. You are also right it might be best to buy the blades.
@@angelisone keep me posted on your progress and happy to assist anytime :)
I''ve always sprayed the blades with wd40 or pb blaster during and after use.
Yes most definitely
wd 40 burns the shrubs and plants. Better to use fluid film.
@@bigtexas7580 thanks for the tip....interesting product.....will look it up (Hendrika)
Yessir, wd40 is a petroleum product and it is harmful to plants. Fluid Film lubricant is a tad bit expensive so when I don't have any I use another non toxic oil or some other organic lubricant on my hedger blades.
@@bigtexas7580 examples of other organic lubes are??
How do I clean sapp , sticky stuff off blades?
I use WD40....let it soak...and wipe...else I just use the grinder to grind off the crap... (Hendrika)
Ok thank you 👍
Simple Green works well too, since it's biodegradable and safe on plants. I've never had a problem with it for cleaning my hedge shears and hand pruners. You have to let it sit for a few minutes, if it's heavy build up you'll have to repeat it x2 or x3 times.
@@readysetsleep cool
...tks for sharing
@@PlantVisionz just use a 1:1 mix of simple Green to Water in the spray bottle ( Home depot sells a gallon with the mix bottle for $12.95, it last for 5 years!). I've had it dry up but it didn't cause rust on my blades, and used a toothbrush or a nylon bristle to scrub the dried up build up. Those brass brushes are really steel coated with brass, and will wear out your teeth. And a few drops of oil to coat it after the cleaning, will help reduce the sap from building up the next cutting.
Oh Young Buck, I feel the pain... working on the back of a horse, with a farmer's hammer. You need a healing bench youngin' so you can take it apart, and leave in pieces until you forget where the Jeezless parts go. Thanks for the video,,,, much appreciated.
thanks for enjoying the video and your awesome comment...
Stihl a video about sharpening the blades. No need to remove the blades!!
@@laurapalmerTDGE yes u can do it without removing the blades but not as clean
Grease the blades with petrol or diesel so stew always stay clean and greased
Thanks for the comment mate....
I like your...what's the word?....... video 👍😁😀
Thank you very much
3rd video I watch where no one goes out and cut something after they're done sharpening
ok...thanks for suggestion. I will go out there and cut the hedge after sharpening. Will do that with my battery hedger
Nice one!
What type of a grinder disk you using?
80grit ....3 inch radius
its a rotary flap wheel. he said 80 grit
@@mondodaftasabrush my pronoun is "she"... 🏳️🌈
Not tellin a what to do,,,, but that gearbox needs a lot more shmoo than what you added, and lubricate the blade (PLEASE) TFTV
Thanks for your advise
its strange how everybody who sharpens blades with an angle grinder never shows how the machine cuts after sharpening.THATS BECAUSE YOU CANNOT GET THE CORRECT ANGLE BY USING SUCH AN AGGRESSIVE MACHINE.
You can if you use a sanding disc.
Gotcha, I will do a video at which state of the prune, I will decide to sharpen the blades. I have since moved on to battery tools and have uploaded my latest sharpening video, do have a look
Would be a bit to large ? unless I find a small one
Crumbs after sharpening like this a few times you wouldn’t have any blade left to dharpff egg n
Actually you are right about it, the wide of the cutting side is gradually reduced. Check out my latest sharpening video where I have now used a small sharpening stone instead.
Just another film about how not to treat and sharpen rough arse garden tackle
hahahhah
11.41 shoot sparks in your gearbox not a good idea! Also removing the rust proof coating not recommended shortening life of blades and grease between the blades and cams will prolong life of blades, get yourself a 10mm ring spanner.
thanks for your comments, greatly appreciated. my blades last me around 2 years and I swap them as the no longer have the cutting precision as before. that is fine with me as i do a lot!! of hedge work. Do u mean a dremel ?
(Hendrika)
Have you not heard of video editing? You could cut all the crap out and edit down to ten mins
You can also adjust the playback speed
I agree and have done so in my recent videos
Lol stihl not good choice
I guess it's a personal choice. Whichever works for you... (Hendrika)
yo boi and what’s wrong with Stihl ?
@@verwolfpack I agree...sithl has the best parts support ever!
@@verwolfpack dealer support is important for stuff that doesn't work...I wouldn't trade my Maruyama hedge trimmers for two Stihl trimmers...as the man says-to each their own
Maruyama, haha. cannot beat stihl as they invented the tools.