Ron, a couple of days ago, Ultimate Reloader did a RUclips video on, you guessed it, the 308. Let's just say it was impressive. Watch it if you get the chance. Thanks for producing such a great channel!
I just so happen to have a Sako carbine with a 20” inch barrel and I have no muzzle flash problems and I even have a break on it because of recoil concerns since I have major neck concerns from a drunk driver hitting me and almost killing me! I have been hunting and reloading and collecting rifles 60+ years and have learned to not let ANYTHING keep you from the things you love to do!
My Dad is 83 & shot a nice 6 point in PA. with his Muzzle Loader last year, even drug it out himself. I still don't know how he does it & he had 2 open Heart Surgeries, 1 at 61 & another at 67, KRAZY.
Yes we are 🤔😳 we aren’t afraid of work or doing the right thing even if others don’t like it🙌 we were thought to work at a young age and the things it brings! The main thing is we listened to our elders since they had been around longer and have the wisdom if we would just listen!
If I was to get a Big Bore for Africa, it would be a 416. A 416 Ruger same case cap as the Lott, but quite a bit faster for lesser game at longer range. The 416 Rem Mag even faster(Same OAL lengh as the Lott) To bad Winchester didn't make a 416 Win Mag back in the day. Would have chosen it over the 458WM. But the 458 the most popular.
The only "brush" busting bullet I have used are 12 guage rifled slugs in 1 to 1 1/4 ounces with I rifled choke tube. Drills 'em. Great video as always.
A .458 Lott can be versatile if one learns to reload it. You can load it to equal the 45/70. Although, some say the .458 Win Mag is an easier option for that.
.338 Win Mag, you want something that can give you a little extra range over many big bores and still retaining big bullets that’s the one. And that’s on if you only want one gun, it’s fairly big for many things but it’s not massive and it’s still big enough to handle the big stuff.
You can't kill a grizzly bear that is charging towards you before it kills you with .338 Win Mag unless you have a very precise shot. Otherwise you can shoot it 5 times over with .338 win mag and not kill it (at least not before the bear kills you).
@@DipsAndPushups if you can’t kill it with that then you aren’t going to do it with anything else. A 33 cal 250-300gr bullet at Mach Jesus and as many as you can reload, I’d say probably 3 vs the 9mm 147gr that I use going 1200-1300 amd getting off probably 6-7 shots before they start trailing high, and I hat isn’t going to do slot more damage to make a difference.I’m probably buying a 10mm soon that I’ll carry depending on what my auction stuff brings and that’ll probably start drifting high at 5-6 shots, sure more punch, but is it enough to stop a bear that the .338 I’m carrying for hunting won’t, again probably not. Now if I step it up to my 44s or 460s I can control them fairly well but they’ll probably start tracking high pretty fast and again it’s back to probably 3-4 before they go high, add frontal diameter sure buts that’s all they add. But if you have any real honest solutions you can put them out there, and hey add in that they have to be worth me drop the rifle that’s already in my hand and make up for the time lost in dropping one and drawing the other, in which case it’s probably too late for not paying enough attention to my surroundings. I guess I’ll edit to say a guy with enough money could get a custom semi auto in .338 or barrel swap any BAR or similar to a .338 and snap off shots fairly quick, but again if that’s not good enough not much is.
@@CowboyHunterPodcast .458 Lott would be a much better option against a charging bear, provided that you can shoot it with as much precision as you can shoot a .338 win mag. .416 Rigby or .404 Jeffrey are also better than .338 Win Mag but only under the assumption that you can shoot them with as much precision as you can shoot the .338 win mag.
39:40 Zastava still makes Mausers, and they're much more affordable than "true" Mausers made by Blaser Group. There must be a load of CZ550s and Brno ZKK600 rifles on secondary market, as well as Voere 2155/2165 and some Husqvarnas. They're all affordable, more than any new Mauser from any higher end brand.
You can see on the internet CZ 550s that chamber .458 Lott for 1500 US dollars. If you want a .458 Winchester Magnum you can buy a Zastava M70 .458 Winchester Magnum for less than 1000 US dollars.
I'm in my early 50's and average 1-3 shots a season out of a 30-06 without ear pro. I have to get a hearing test every year where I work. I may be lucky, but so far my hearing is considered normal.
I have a Husqvarna 1640 in 30-06 with a 24” barrel and it’s a fantastically accurate rifle but one thing to consider: the older ones (mine is from 1960) were made with a 1-12” twist rate, which mine has vs the more modern 1-10”. It loves almost any 150 gr bullet, but when you get into the 165-180 gr bullets, you need to keep bullet length and shape in mind. Shorter flat base bullets in that heavier range seem to work fine, but boat tail bullets or non-lead bullets (because they’re longer than a comparable weight lead type bullet) can have a hard time stabilizing. Just more reason to experiment and get to know your rifle!
I have the same rifle and I stick with 165 grain and lighter and found them to work the best in my rifle too especially the flat based bullets which stabilize faster!
-Unless yr going to Africa, I'd suggest a Marlin 1895 45-70Gov instead of a 458Lott. A 'little' easier on the shoulder throwing the same diameter bullets. -Stock type, wood or synthetic furniture. My vote is both. I like my Marlins, so I bought a CVA Scout, with plastic furniture, in 444Marlin so my Marlin 1895 444Marlin can stay warm & dry in the safe in crappy weather. 😀
Ron: What I have never found us a book similar to Cartridges of the World that describes all the various powders: Flake powders, ball powders, rod powders, fast burning, slow burning, designed for handgun cartridges, rifle cartridges, HOWITZER ammunition, etc..
As a owner of a 458lott I would venture to say it's a 1 gun hunt anywhere in the world minus long range shots but 0-250 yard the lott can be loaded to cover alot if ground. The one plus is it can shot 458 win mags and if you hand load sky is the limit, I've got some 325 grain flex tips loaded in win mag cases moving around 2400fps and shoots 1 inch groups. But with the bullet selection in today's market it's a great choice for any thing that walks. I'd be interested in hearing other lott owners comments on this matter or any big bore owners.
I was a pH and outfitter for 38 years in south Africa,hunted almost everything with almost every caliber. 3 guns I will always have in my safe 1, 375 h&h because it can do the job 2.308 sufficient for all plains game, good all rounder,cheap ,verify and availability of ammo 3 243, just a nice gun that can do so much,all about bullet placement I enjoy Ruger arms and çz because the are accurate or can be tweeked to be so ,they last and reliable.... Spent a little money on then and they will service you well
I read a study one time about the legend of “brush buster” calibers. The round they found was the best at accurately going through “simulated brush” was the .223 Remington. The authors conjecture was that the smaller diameter made it more likely it would go BETWEEN the brush without contacting anything. One thing they discovered was that ANY contact, with ANY brush, regardless of caliber, ruined everything. Brush busting cartridges are just another myth, totally unconnected to reality. What is not a myth is that when those “fat”, non-hypersonic cartridges do hit game, they often do a job all out of proportion to what the ballistics say (just ask the fellow with the .350 Legend.) Maybe that’s where the legend originated, back in the ancient days of ballistics. A 405 grain lump of lead from a 45~70 is going to do damage whether it hits nose first, base first, or sideways.
I have been correcting numerous people on the fallacy of so called brush buster calibers/ bullets for years. Most people will not believe it until they see for themselves. My father in law had a Ruger semi auto .44 Magnum that he swore would gothrough any thick brush accurately. Behind his lake dam grew some of the nastiest vines and thorn bushes. I set up cardboard about 4ft wide by 5 ft tall with white bullseye the size of a grape fruit. Sat it behind a wall of brush, maybe 6ft in. He leaned up against a tree about 40 yds away. He shot 5 times. None hit near bullseye. All hit sideways. Only one may have hit a deer but it no doubt would have been a bad hit most likely. I shot one with a 150 gr. Corelokt bullet out of a 30/06. Only shrapnel hit cardboard.
I disagree, it performs exactly as expected so it’s fully believable. Great all around cartridge for the 1 gun to do it all crowd, for the rest of us who treat firearms like kids do Pokémon of course you got to have at least one lol
Ron... When addressing the question about 458 Lott you made a bit of a goof. You forgot if the person is a hand loader they can load it down (like I do) to 45-70 power... And in that case it can and will work for nearly any type of game. You can use soft bullets for 45-70 and get the same exact performance.
Hey Ron spomer I've been watching your videos for couple of months and your cartridge talks help convince me to get a cva cascade 30-06 I live in California so lead free ammo state I'm curious what your recommendations are and advice
The all-copper projectiles are much more effective than lead. I’ve switched to all copper for every type of game (in a state I could use whatever I want) because they are just so much better. Watch Ron’s and other’s videos on them!! Barnes TTSX are the best, you can’t go wrong with them
I appreciate the information I've heard good things about about the barnes tsx I think I'm going try 165 grain is there issues to know about or any advice about bullet grain or anything that will be more knowledge in my pocket love this podcast
I lit right up and really enjoyed your responses to my question! I now have a 24 and 20.5 inch barrelled rifle in controlled round feed Mauser action, both Husqvarna, and I still can't decide, haha! Both old guns, I feel the lightweight short barrelled one is in better condition other than a small crack in the stock. I may keep it for that reason alone. I think I'm going to do a lot of archery, before I consider becoming a gun collector. For now one that does everything okay will do the trick
Alright, Ron, you really need to delve into this propellant. Idea. Also, I'd like to see a test. Can you use tannerite in an emergency situation as gunpowder for bullets
I totally agree about the 458 Lott not tearing deer apart. I shot a 90lb doe with one and it left a clean broomstick-sized hole in and out just behind the shoulder. It was a 500gr DGX at 50 yards and she dropped like she was headshot.
Big heavy projectiles are laughably misunderstood, and those that don’t get it WILL NOT hear otherwise. A .45-70 throwing 405gr at 1,300fps will waste so much less meat on a whitetail than a .270 130gr at 2,900fps, but nope they won’t hear it. Any big bore is too much gun because grandpa said so!
Ron: you might want to revisit Barnes' recommendation regarding bullet jump to the lands. You mentioned starting .050 off the lands and then extending the bullet, i.e., reducing seating depth, which also reduces the jump. Barnes actually suggests the opposite, starting at .050 and then seating the bullet 'deeper' and thereby extending the jump. Here's the quote from their online Loading Guidelines: "We suggest working in at least .025” increments as follows seating the bullet deeper to allow a further jump." They then give incremental seating depth increases in .025 increments to .150 inch off the lands. In any event, another interesting podcast. Mike in Florida
Thanks Mike. I've been loading Barnes for so many decades that I don't read the fine print, I guess! Rarely have need to tweak seating depth for accuracy.
I watched a guy many years ago did some pretty interesting testing with shooting a target with various cartridges by lining up the rifle in a fixture and then moving banks of wooden dowels between the rifle and target. All bullets deflected but the high sectional density bullets like a 220 gr 30 cal did better than short fat bullets. The longer faster twist bullets would maintain stability more often than the shorter fat bullets that would tumble and keyhole more often. Barns does say to try ( farther off the lands) to improve accuracy.
I bought a custom Husqvarna Crown grade in 338-06 the year before last. I've done a lot of reading, and after listening to Ron talk about his .280 AI. I decided to take my rifle into my local gunsmith and have him rechamber it for 338-06 AI a week ago. I picked up a set of dies for the AI version, and I'm really looking forward to getting my rifle back and to start working up some loads for it.
An old timer told me years ago that if I ever needed to sight in and didn’t have a hundred yard range to shoot at 100’. I’ve checked ballistic calculators and it’s pretty close.
Its funny back in early 50s a fellow by the name of watts wildcatted a cartridge ,and called it the 450 watts A ballistic twin of jack lotts cartridge which he brought out in 71
120 dB is jackhammer. Momentary max I believe. Guns are 140+db. Silencer reduce it to about 120dB. And logarithmic base 10. Meaning every 10dB is double the concussive sound wave that breaks off the hairs or breaks ur ear drum
Hey Ron, hopefully you'll get to this in a future episode. I live in Massachusetts, and I'm looking to get into some Black Bear hunting in my home state and New Hampshire. I'm the market to get a rifle to effectively take that game. From my research it seems like the average weight of male and female Black bear is in NE seems to be higher the most other parts of the country. The hunting in NE is generally pretty close range, 100+ yard shots are tough to find. I have feeling that all the "normal" hunting rounds would work just fine for this (30-06, .308, 6.5CM, 7mm, .270win, etc.) but I figured I would ask an expert on that matter.
You are correct. All those have been used to good effect. There's some validity in using a larger caliber (not necessarily faster, just larger diameter bullet) for increasing chances for better blood trails. 338 Federal and 358 Win. come to mind.
You’ll want to check local laws- pretty sure they outlawed any black bear hunting in New Hampshire about a decade back. Doesn’t look like they’ve changed it, because people there constantly complain about nuisance black bears that no one can do anything about!
Hey Ron love the channels, I have a finally getting a personal nostalgic rifle back in my gun cabinet. A JM stamped Marlin 336 in 35 Remington. Hunted several years as a teenager with an old 35 Remington. Took my first deer at 15 with on using 200 gr. Deadly mushrooms. As I heard the deer coming I pulled up and swung to get on the deer while simultaneously cooking the hammer. The deer heard the hammer cock and slid to a stop. At which time the crosshairs of my scope found the black nose of a deer looking straight at me. Probably needless to say but that black dot became my aiming point. I knew the deer was close but upon pulling the trigger, the deer flipped backwards and slid a few feet down the ridge dead. It ended up being a nine yard shot. I have owned many rifles and in 35 years of hunting but I always regretted having to sell my ol Marlin 336 35 remington. Here's where I need some help. Ammo is hard to find and outrageous expensive. I already reload and have some brass so I am going to reload for it. 200 gr. Ftx bullets, leverlution powder. I will be using full length resizing dies and likely go back to factory lenght seeting depth. My question is to find that load that shoots well sometimes means pushing around the max grains or even trickel just over to find that sweet spot of velocity and accuracy. Will level actions handle reloading this way as bolt action or semi automatic rifles do? 1st time reloading lever action! Thanks and keep up the great work.
Chad, I recommend you follow instructions and recipes in your handloading manuals. Lever-actions are not as strong as most bolt-actions, so pushing chamber pressure limits is not a good idea. Changing seating depth shouldn't be a problem unless you make it so long that the round rams the bullet into the rifling, which would raise pressures upon ignition. As a general rule, hyper accuracy is not a goal of lever-action shooters using traditional, round-now and flat-nose bullets with rather limited range anyway. A 2 MOA rifle would keep all bullets inside a 4-inch circle at 200 yards, a 6-inch at 300 yards. That's vital zone on a broadside whitetail.
I have two Remmington mod. 100's auto loaders. .243 100 gr./ 308 150 gr. bullet. Where I hunt you might get a two hundred yr. shot at best. .243 for deer. 308 for elk. 1 shot usually does it. The difference between an 06 & .308 at that distance is 150 foot pounds. Elk won't notice that. Power has never made for a bad placement. The cal. you shoot, depends on what your hunting and where. In places out to 500/600 yards 270/300 WSM's work just fine. For long range, .30-378whby, Custom 200 gr. XLD. Good to 1200 yards. ❤
Kenneth, I'm wondering is you are saying you have two Remington Model XP 100 single shot handguns or if you've confused things and have a Winchester autoloading Model 100 rifle. From your descriptions I'm guessing the latter. You certainly are correct about the 150 f-p difference not mattering and for shot placement trumping power. Absolutely.
140 dB single impact noise causes permanent hearing damage. Higher is worse. Less than 140 dB use a time, weighted exposure level to assess damage potential.
With a 20" 5.56 barrel, what box of ammo would you recommend for deer? I'm thinking 70 gr barnes tsx, 55 gr hornady cx superformance, and 62 gr federal fusion but I'm open to suggestions
Had a look and can't find anything. I'm in Australia and I can't find any data for a 357 magnum in a Rossi lever action. Everything here is for the pistol. My question is this. Is there a load that is for the 357 lever action. I know we have different powders to you but I'm curious. Thanks.
I would think the twist rate should tell you how much rotation damage you get in the target. A 270 for example has a 1 in 10 twist. It will rotate once in 10 inches of travel in the target. That is one reason the new (1 in 3 inch) fast twist rounds are so impressive in ballistic gel.
10:01 I think it’s easier to picture the spinning of the bullet in relation to the original rifling rate. Say, you spin the bullet at 1:10 as it leaves the muzzle so, absent the loss of forward velocity, you can imagine the bullet at terminal performance replicating the rifling inside the target. If you assume that your rotational velocity loss is negligible, you should be able to calculate the forward velocity of the bullet at impact and reevaluate the ‘new’ effective rifling rate. I agree that once terminal ballistics are involved, the rotational velocity must be lost at least as much as forward velocity, if you assume that the bullet has expanded. So… The idea of a ‘buzzsaw’ effect doesn’t seem realistic. The petals of the expanded bullet seem to me to be doing a lot more work on the permanent wound cavity in a linear fashion than rotational. But I’m only theorizing. Anyway, more hole, more better.
Hey Ron, I have a question for you. My wife is looking for a new deer rifle to replace her pump action 243 win, since looking I've noticed there aren't as many semi auto deer rifles these days as there used to be (model 100, 7400) any thoughts on why this is? Love the content, thanks for all you do!
Right you are, sir. I assume it's simply demand. The bolt action has won the popularity contest due to its durability, simplicity, and easy long-range accuracy. Better precision triggers, too. In reality many if not most of the old autos were more than accurate enough for big game hunting to at least 300 yards. Browning still makes its excellent BAR sporting rifles. AR-15s and 10s have taken over the autoloading market due to modularity and familiarity (military.)
Found a flash foreward muzzle brake. Basically a 2 inch tube w the bullet hole w a ring of smaller holes in a concave face with the concave facing foreward. I think i got them from Cabellas but not sure. In any case, it throws the flames & sound foreward & acts as a muzzle brake too. Took all the birdcage " flash supressors" ( a term i never really understood because they dont hide the flash at all.) standard AR units off & replaced em with the flash foreward units. MUCH quieter for the shooter & thoes off to the side but really loud for thoes on the receiving end. Granted, i still wear my headphones at the range but out hunting the report isnt nearly what it was before the switch. Its NOT a suppressor. Just blows most of the sound foreward.
Hey Ron keep up the great videos. I’m interested in getting a lite weight gun for walking in the western New York woods. I’m looking at the Cva scout takedown stainless steel 20” barrel in 243 Winchester. I wanted to know your thoughts on a 243 Winchester for white tail and potentially black bear if given the chance as well as using 243 with a 20” barrel. Imagine most shots would be easily 200 yards or less. If I’m lucky enough to be chosen any factory ammo suggestions?Thank you from a younger viewer at 20 years old I enjoy both your main channel and podcast channel.
Garrett, I've long been a fan of the 243 Win and its contemporary, the 244/6mm Rem. I've taken a lot of whitetails, mule deer, and pronghorn with both. Just be sure to place your shots precisely and in line with the type of bullet. The more frangible bullets, and this includes the standard cup and cores, should be on or behind the shoulder, broadside. I once tried to finish a wounded, running whitetail by shooting at its backside. All the 105-grain cup-core round nose did was blow about 3 pounds of ham muscle to shreds. A tougher bullet might have --- likely would have -- broken the leg bone. The deer expired from the initial chest shot in short order anyway. You'll likely lose about 50- to 100-fps with that 20" barrel, leaving you with a 100-gr. at about 2,900 to 3,000 fps, but different bullets and factory loads will vary this considerably. Regardless, the deer won't notice the difference and inside of 300 yards you likely won't either. I'd use bonded core bullets of 80 to 100 grains or the heaviest expanding copper your barrel will stabilize.
@@RonSpomerOutdoors thank you so much for the response. I personally am a 308 enjoyer and that’s what I’ve always taken my deer with. This year I tried all copper for the first time with a 165 grain Barnes tsx loaded from federal and loved the performance. For the 243 I was thinking about trying the 85 grain tsx or a the 95 grain bonded fusion from federal.
it would kill a deer. the ammo is expensive as shit and kicks more than you can probably handle so it would be a really dumb thing to do. but it would work. that's a stopping rifle for the big 5 .Get some training and maybe you may understand how ridiculous this question is.
Now the .308 gets way more hate than it deserves, and it does deserve some of the haters it draws. However it does have some decent attributes and versatility, sure there are things better if you’re willing to take more recoil or lose lose some velocity to reduce recoil, but it’s useful. Heck I’ve even tried to get away from it, but yet everyone me I think I’m done I either find old ammo or cheap ammo and say hey it wouldn’t hurt to have around. Plus everyone makes a rifle chambered for it so you’ve got options, and it helps to set up a rifle that fits you so options helps that.
* What I've found somewhat peculiar is that with these newer high BC bullets, and faster twist rate barrels, the gun manufacturers are producing rifles with shorter barrels. Kind of defeats the purpose, IMO.
That does sound a bit weird, doesn't it. But it's the desire for silencers that drives the short barrel phenomenon. And the higher B.C.s still reduce wind deflection. You do get more drop due to lower MVs.
It’s not the cartridge we have a problem with in the 6.5 needmore it’s the people who own them 🤔😳😂 how do you say they need therapy without sounding crazy yourself😳
Just want share an experience. When I began hunting with my 16” 300 Hamr AR it was the first rifle with that short a barrel I’d ever hunted with. I was concerned about having the muzzle blast so close to me. I put a linear front forwarding brake on it. The first time I got a deer in my sights I just fired it and forgot to use my ear protection. I winced thinking “ there goes my hearing for a couple of hours”. But to my surprise there was no ear ringing at all! What that particular brake does is put all the noise and most importantly all the percussion forward and while still loud it does cut down on the normal after effect that you would normally experience. Now I’m sure it’s not “hearing safe” but it’s way better than a straight muzzle! For the record no supersonic round fired through an AR with a suppressor is hearing safe. It seems to me that if you hunt with a AR you’ll need hearing protection regardless. Why spend so much for a suppressor when these linear brakes are well under $100?
458 Lott dont need long barrels cartridge wise. It is not overbore. 22 inch is a lot of barrel for a Lott.. In a 270 is 22 inch short. 270 is a overbore magnum.
I am the proud owner of 2 fine 458 Lott rifles. I have to say that it would be a TERRIBLE single rifle to own. I only shoot mine after extensive practice with lesser calibers working up from 7,300,375 and 416 calibers. Respect the game you are hunting. Rifle caliber choice shouldn’t be made solely on “Macho” calibers but instead on the most effective calibers that you can honestly and accurately shoot very well.
Hydrostatic shock is not a misnomer. It refers to a shock wave propagating through a stationary fluid. I think this is the 3rd or 4th episode discussing this and so far it has all been speculation and opinion. Until there are facts of some kind to discuss you should give it a rest.
458 Lott...all around? Yeah, it'll kill everything... so far. But that doesn't mean "all around". At least not in MY book. But I like mine. It is like Phil Schomacher said on your show (great interview BTW!).... It's about putting the bullet in the right place. I've done ok with lighter "deer" cartridges.... But I still have fun with my Lott, too.
I am the proud owner of 2 fine 458 Lott rifles. I have to say that it would be a TERRIBLE single rifle to own. I only shoot mine after extensive practice with lesser calibers working up from 7,300,375 and 416 calibers. Respect the game you are hunting. Rifle caliber choice shouldn’t be made solely on “Macho” calibers but instead on the most effective calibers that you can honestly and accurately shoot very well.
The 375 H&H magnum is considered as the best overall cartridge world wide. For North America minus big bears, the 30-06 pretty much carries the mail.
Really like the Browning X-bolts too.
Ron, a couple of days ago, Ultimate Reloader did a RUclips video on, you guessed it, the 308. Let's just say it was impressive. Watch it if you get the chance. Thanks for producing such a great channel!
I'll stick with my old faithful 30-06 nothing fancy but has never failed me in the field.
I just so happen to have a Sako carbine with a 20” inch barrel and I have no muzzle flash problems and I even have a break on it because of recoil concerns since I have major neck concerns from a drunk driver hitting me and almost killing me! I have been hunting and reloading and collecting rifles 60+ years and have learned to not let ANYTHING keep you from the things you love to do!
I would love to hear more stories about Elmer Keith from that guy that wrote in. Ron, you have the best videos.
Interview that 97 year old gentleman, Ron. We would love to hear his stories on guns and hunting.
My Dad is 83 & shot a nice 6 point in PA. with his Muzzle Loader last year, even drug it out himself.
I still don't know how he does it & he had 2 open Heart Surgeries, 1 at 61 & another at 67, KRAZY.
he was just built different in his time
Props to your Pops! Dragging a dead deer when you're 83 years old? Crazy health.
Yes we are 🤔😳 we aren’t afraid of work or doing the right thing even if others don’t like it🙌 we were thought to work at a young age and the things it brings! The main thing is we listened to our elders since they had been around longer and have the wisdom if we would just listen!
If I was to get a Big Bore for Africa, it would be a 416. A 416 Ruger same case cap as the Lott, but quite a bit faster for lesser game at longer range. The 416 Rem Mag even faster(Same OAL lengh as the Lott) To bad Winchester didn't make a 416 Win Mag back in the day. Would have chosen it over the 458WM. But the 458 the most popular.
Amen on the Swede 6.5x55 in the Husqvarna
The only "brush" busting bullet I have used are 12 guage rifled slugs in 1 to 1 1/4 ounces with I rifled choke tube. Drills 'em.
Great video as always.
A .458 Lott can be versatile if one learns to reload it. You can load it to equal the 45/70. Although, some say the .458 Win Mag is an easier option for that.
.338 Win Mag, you want something that can give you a little extra range over many big bores and still retaining big bullets that’s the one. And that’s on if you only want one gun, it’s fairly big for many things but it’s not massive and it’s still big enough to handle the big stuff.
You can't kill a grizzly bear that is charging towards you before it kills you with .338 Win Mag unless you have a very precise shot. Otherwise you can shoot it 5 times over with .338 win mag and not kill it (at least not before the bear kills you).
@@DipsAndPushups if you can’t kill it with that then you aren’t going to do it with anything else. A 33 cal 250-300gr bullet at Mach Jesus and as many as you can reload, I’d say probably 3 vs the 9mm 147gr that I use going 1200-1300 amd getting off probably 6-7 shots before they start trailing high, and I hat isn’t going to do slot more damage to make a difference.I’m probably buying a 10mm soon that I’ll carry depending on what my auction stuff brings and that’ll probably start drifting high at 5-6 shots, sure more punch, but is it enough to stop a bear that the .338 I’m carrying for hunting won’t, again probably not. Now if I step it up to my 44s or 460s I can control them fairly well but they’ll probably start tracking high pretty fast and again it’s back to probably 3-4 before they go high, add frontal diameter sure buts that’s all they add. But if you have any real honest solutions you can put them out there, and hey add in that they have to be worth me drop the rifle that’s already in my hand and make up for the time lost in dropping one and drawing the other, in which case it’s probably too late for not paying enough attention to my surroundings. I guess I’ll edit to say a guy with enough money could get a custom semi auto in .338 or barrel swap any BAR or similar to a .338 and snap off shots fairly quick, but again if that’s not good enough not much is.
375 covers those bases, and it's legal for big 5
@@CowboyHunterPodcast .458 Lott would be a much better option against a charging bear, provided that you can shoot it with as much precision as you can shoot a .338 win mag. .416 Rigby or .404 Jeffrey are also better than .338 Win Mag but only under the assumption that you can shoot them with as much precision as you can shoot the .338 win mag.
39:40 Zastava still makes Mausers, and they're much more affordable than "true" Mausers made by Blaser Group. There must be a load of CZ550s and Brno ZKK600 rifles on secondary market, as well as Voere 2155/2165 and some Husqvarnas. They're all affordable, more than any new Mauser from any higher end brand.
You can see on the internet CZ 550s that chamber .458 Lott for 1500 US dollars. If you want a .458 Winchester Magnum you can buy a Zastava M70 .458 Winchester Magnum for less than 1000 US dollars.
I'm in my early 50's and average 1-3 shots a season out of a 30-06 without ear pro. I have to get a hearing test every year where I work. I may be lucky, but so far my hearing is considered normal.
I just love the 'classic safari' calibers. Interesting vid again Ron 👍
Greets from the Netherlands 🇳🇱, TW.
I have a Husqvarna 1640 in 30-06 with a 24” barrel and it’s a fantastically accurate rifle but one thing to consider: the older ones (mine is from 1960) were made with a 1-12” twist rate, which mine has vs the more modern 1-10”. It loves almost any 150 gr bullet, but when you get into the 165-180 gr bullets, you need to keep bullet length and shape in mind. Shorter flat base bullets in that heavier range seem to work fine, but boat tail bullets or non-lead bullets (because they’re longer than a comparable weight lead type bullet) can have a hard time stabilizing. Just more reason to experiment and get to know your rifle!
I have the same rifle and I stick with 165 grain and lighter and found them to work the best in my rifle too especially the flat based bullets which stabilize faster!
I have to add those 6.5x55 are dang accurate as well great all-round gun if you want one I would say this is it 🙂
-Unless yr going to Africa, I'd suggest a Marlin 1895 45-70Gov instead of a 458Lott. A 'little' easier on the shoulder throwing the same diameter bullets.
-Stock type, wood or synthetic furniture. My vote is both. I like my Marlins, so I bought a CVA Scout, with plastic furniture, in 444Marlin so my Marlin 1895 444Marlin can stay warm & dry in the safe in crappy weather. 😀
Ron: What I have never found us a book similar to Cartridges of the World that describes all the various powders: Flake powders, ball powders, rod powders, fast burning, slow burning, designed for handgun cartridges, rifle cartridges, HOWITZER ammunition, etc..
As a owner of a 458lott I would venture to say it's a 1 gun hunt anywhere in the world minus long range shots but 0-250 yard the lott can be loaded to cover alot if ground. The one plus is it can shot 458 win mags and if you hand load sky is the limit, I've got some 325 grain flex tips loaded in win mag cases moving around 2400fps and shoots 1 inch groups. But with the bullet selection in today's market it's a great choice for any thing that walks. I'd be interested in hearing other lott owners comments on this matter or any big bore owners.
I was a pH and outfitter for 38 years in south Africa,hunted almost everything with almost every caliber. 3 guns I will always have in my safe
1, 375 h&h because it can do the job
2.308 sufficient for all plains game, good all rounder,cheap ,verify and availability of ammo
3 243, just a nice gun that can do so much,all about bullet placement
I enjoy Ruger arms and çz because the are accurate or can be tweeked to be so ,they last and reliable.... Spent a little money on then and they will service you well
All bullets will deflect off in brush
Right you are, Curtis.
Yes they will . A brush gun is handy in brush . The ammo is not able to smash through brush without bullet defelction.
I read a study one time about the legend of “brush buster” calibers. The round they found was the best at accurately going through “simulated brush” was the .223 Remington. The authors conjecture was that the smaller diameter made it more likely it would go BETWEEN the brush without contacting anything. One thing they discovered was that ANY contact, with ANY brush, regardless of caliber, ruined everything. Brush busting cartridges are just another myth, totally unconnected to reality. What is not a myth is that when those “fat”, non-hypersonic cartridges do hit game, they often do a job all out of proportion to what the ballistics say (just ask the fellow with the .350 Legend.) Maybe that’s where the legend originated, back in the ancient days of ballistics. A 405 grain lump of lead from a 45~70 is going to do damage whether it hits nose first, base first, or sideways.
But some deflect more than others.
I have been correcting numerous people on the fallacy of so called brush buster calibers/ bullets for years. Most people will not believe it until they see for themselves. My father in law had a Ruger semi auto .44 Magnum that he swore would gothrough any thick brush accurately. Behind his lake dam grew some of the nastiest vines and thorn bushes. I set up cardboard about 4ft wide by 5 ft tall with white bullseye the size of a grape fruit. Sat it behind a wall of brush, maybe 6ft in. He leaned up against a tree about 40 yds away. He shot 5 times. None hit near bullseye. All hit sideways. Only one may have hit a deer but it no doubt would have been a bad hit most likely. I shot one with a 150 gr. Corelokt bullet out of a 30/06. Only shrapnel hit cardboard.
.308 is unbelievably effective
I believe it.
It’s the best actually
I disagree, it performs exactly as expected so it’s fully believable. Great all around cartridge for the 1 gun to do it all crowd, for the rest of us who treat firearms like kids do Pokémon of course you got to have at least one lol
YOU'RE CORRECT !!!!!! I don't believe you.
@@tomickes409 finally some got it 😎
Ron... When addressing the question about 458 Lott you made a bit of a goof. You forgot if the person is a hand loader they can load it down (like I do) to 45-70 power... And in that case it can and will work for nearly any type of game. You can use soft bullets for 45-70 and get the same exact performance.
HI Ron great conten ,this is for todd in miami go to homestead range they have a 500 yard and 2 100 hundred yards exelent place in Homestead ,fl.
Hey Ron spomer I've been watching your videos for couple of months and your cartridge talks help convince me to get a cva cascade 30-06 I live in California so lead free ammo state I'm curious what your recommendations are and advice
The all-copper projectiles are much more effective than lead. I’ve switched to all copper for every type of game (in a state I could use whatever I want) because they are just so much better. Watch Ron’s and other’s videos on them!! Barnes TTSX are the best, you can’t go wrong with them
I appreciate the information I've heard good things about about the barnes tsx I think I'm going try 165 grain is there issues to know about or any advice about bullet grain or anything that will be more knowledge in my pocket love this podcast
I lit right up and really enjoyed your responses to my question! I now have a 24 and 20.5 inch barrelled rifle in controlled round feed Mauser action, both Husqvarna, and I still can't decide, haha! Both old guns, I feel the lightweight short barrelled one is in better condition other than a small crack in the stock. I may keep it for that reason alone. I think I'm going to do a lot of archery, before I consider becoming a gun collector. For now one that does everything okay will do the trick
Ruger # 1 tropical SS in 458 Lott. What a gun.
Hard to find load data.
Thankyou Ron for these enjoyable listens. Watching from Sydney Australia
Alright, Ron, you really need to delve into this propellant. Idea. Also, I'd like to see a test. Can you use tannerite in an emergency situation as gunpowder for bullets
That’s a big NO! My sons friend invented is and it’s not regulated enough to be that consistent so don’t even think about it!
I totally agree about the 458 Lott not tearing deer apart. I shot a 90lb doe with one and it left a clean broomstick-sized hole in and out just behind the shoulder. It was a 500gr DGX at 50 yards and she dropped like she was headshot.
Big heavy projectiles are laughably misunderstood, and those that don’t get it WILL NOT hear otherwise. A .45-70 throwing 405gr at 1,300fps will waste so much less meat on a whitetail than a .270 130gr at 2,900fps, but nope they won’t hear it. Any big bore is too much gun because grandpa said so!
Ron: you might want to revisit Barnes' recommendation regarding bullet jump to the lands. You mentioned starting .050 off the lands and then extending the bullet, i.e., reducing seating depth, which also reduces the jump. Barnes actually suggests the opposite, starting at .050 and then seating the bullet 'deeper' and thereby extending the jump. Here's the quote from their online Loading Guidelines: "We suggest working in at least .025” increments as follows seating the bullet deeper to allow a further jump." They then give incremental seating depth increases in .025 increments to .150 inch off the lands. In any event, another interesting podcast. Mike in Florida
Thanks Mike. I've been loading Barnes for so many decades that I don't read the fine print, I guess! Rarely have need to tweak seating depth for accuracy.
I saw that on the Midwayusa site while checking their specifications.
I watched a guy many years ago did some pretty interesting testing with shooting a target with various cartridges by lining up the rifle in a fixture and then moving banks of wooden dowels between the rifle and target. All bullets deflected but the high sectional density bullets like a 220 gr 30 cal did better than short fat bullets. The longer faster twist bullets would maintain stability more often than the shorter fat bullets that would tumble and keyhole more often. Barns does say to try ( farther off the lands) to improve accuracy.
I bought a custom Husqvarna Crown grade in 338-06 the year before last. I've done a lot of reading, and after listening to Ron talk about his .280 AI. I decided to take my rifle into my local gunsmith and have him rechamber it for 338-06 AI a week ago. I picked up a set of dies for the AI version, and I'm really looking forward to getting my rifle back and to start working up some loads for it.
Good luck with that, Jim. Should be deadly. Let us know how it goes.
@RonSpomerOutdoors I'll definitely do that. It's going to be interesting for me anyway.😊
An old timer told me years ago that if I ever needed to sight in and didn’t have a hundred yard range to shoot at 100’. I’ve checked ballistic calculators and it’s pretty close.
Its funny back in early 50s a fellow by the name of watts wildcatted a cartridge ,and called it the 450 watts
A ballistic twin of jack lotts cartridge which he brought out in 71
120 dB is jackhammer. Momentary max I believe. Guns are 140+db. Silencer reduce it to about 120dB.
And logarithmic base 10. Meaning every 10dB is double the concussive sound wave that breaks off the hairs or breaks ur ear drum
Love the time stamps.
Hey Ron, hopefully you'll get to this in a future episode. I live in Massachusetts, and I'm looking to get into some Black Bear hunting in my home state and New Hampshire. I'm the market to get a rifle to effectively take that game. From my research it seems like the average weight of male and female Black bear is in NE seems to be higher the most other parts of the country. The hunting in NE is generally pretty close range, 100+ yard shots are tough to find. I have feeling that all the "normal" hunting rounds would work just fine for this (30-06, .308, 6.5CM, 7mm, .270win, etc.) but I figured I would ask an expert on that matter.
You are correct. All those have been used to good effect. There's some validity in using a larger caliber (not necessarily faster, just larger diameter bullet) for increasing chances for better blood trails. 338 Federal and 358 Win. come to mind.
You’ll want to check local laws- pretty sure they outlawed any black bear hunting in New Hampshire about a decade back. Doesn’t look like they’ve changed it, because people there constantly complain about nuisance black bears that no one can do anything about!
Hi Ron, with your 7mm book, have you now written books about all available cartridges to date?
Hey Ron love the channels, I have a finally getting a personal nostalgic rifle back in my gun cabinet. A JM stamped Marlin 336 in 35 Remington. Hunted several years as a teenager with an old 35 Remington. Took my first deer at 15 with on using 200 gr. Deadly mushrooms. As I heard the deer coming I pulled up and swung to get on the deer while simultaneously cooking the hammer. The deer heard the hammer cock and slid to a stop. At which time the crosshairs of my scope found the black nose of a deer looking straight at me. Probably needless to say but that black dot became my aiming point. I knew the deer was close but upon pulling the trigger, the deer flipped backwards and slid a few feet down the ridge dead. It ended up being a nine yard shot. I have owned many rifles and in 35 years of hunting but I always regretted having to sell my ol Marlin 336 35 remington. Here's where I need some help. Ammo is hard to find and outrageous expensive. I already reload and have some brass so I am going to reload for it. 200 gr. Ftx bullets, leverlution powder. I will be using full length resizing dies and likely go back to factory lenght seeting depth. My question is to find that load that shoots well sometimes means pushing around the max grains or even trickel just over to find that sweet spot of velocity and accuracy. Will level actions handle reloading this way as bolt action or semi automatic rifles do? 1st time reloading lever action! Thanks and keep up the great work.
Chad, I recommend you follow instructions and recipes in your handloading manuals. Lever-actions are not as strong as most bolt-actions, so pushing chamber pressure limits is not a good idea. Changing seating depth shouldn't be a problem unless you make it so long that the round rams the bullet into the rifling, which would raise pressures upon ignition. As a general rule, hyper accuracy is not a goal of lever-action shooters using traditional, round-now and flat-nose bullets with rather limited range anyway. A 2 MOA rifle would keep all bullets inside a 4-inch circle at 200 yards, a 6-inch at 300 yards. That's vital zone on a broadside whitetail.
Thanks Ron!!!! Keep up the great work
I have two Remmington mod. 100's auto loaders. .243 100 gr./
308 150 gr. bullet. Where I hunt you might get a two hundred yr. shot at best. .243 for deer. 308 for elk. 1 shot usually does it. The difference between an 06 & .308 at that distance is 150 foot pounds. Elk won't notice that. Power has never made for a bad placement.
The cal. you shoot, depends on what your hunting and where. In places out to 500/600 yards 270/300 WSM's work just fine. For long range,
.30-378whby, Custom 200 gr. XLD. Good to 1200 yards. ❤
Kenneth, I'm wondering is you are saying you have two Remington Model XP 100 single shot handguns or if you've confused things and have a Winchester autoloading Model 100 rifle. From your descriptions I'm guessing the latter. You certainly are correct about the 150 f-p difference not mattering and for shot placement trumping power. Absolutely.
Hunting in Miami!? Heck Yeah! I don't see too much on your show 'bout how to get Dat alli-gate-tor!
Let's go. I've yet to hunt a gator.
458 is a great round to hunt old growth oak trees.
I LOVE Mike @ minute 12:15
140 dB single impact noise causes permanent hearing damage. Higher is worse. Less than 140 dB use a time, weighted exposure level to assess damage potential.
With a 20" 5.56 barrel, what box of ammo would you recommend for deer? I'm thinking 70 gr barnes tsx, 55 gr hornady cx superformance, and 62 gr federal fusion but I'm open to suggestions
I have found some bullets like a little bit more "Jump" my 190gr ABLR in 300WinMag tend to like a bit of jump over being closer to the lands.
If you have a 1-8 twist at the barrel. That means it will spin 1 time every 8 inches in the air, and in the animal. (Minus loses)
We get too caught up with converting things sometimes. And Take a tripod hunting, also squeeze ur bag under the rear
Here's how you keep anything from getting on your scope lenses. USE THE SCOPE LENS COVERS!
If no scope covers available, why not use a zip lock bag over the front lens? Works for me....
Had a look and can't find anything. I'm in Australia and I can't find any data for a 357 magnum in a Rossi lever action. Everything here is for the pistol. My question is this. Is there a load that is for the 357 lever action. I know we have different powders to you but I'm curious. Thanks.
Great stories OG old Guys stories 97 still at It Wowed 😮
Sure wish you’d follow up the 7mm book with a 6.8mm pamphlet, lol.
I would think the twist rate should tell you how much rotation damage you get in the target. A 270 for example has a 1 in 10 twist. It will rotate once in 10 inches of travel in the target. That is one reason the new (1 in 3 inch) fast twist rounds are so impressive in ballistic gel.
WHAT ? " Once in 10 inches to the target " ?
@@NoWr2Run One turn in 10" of forward travel due to the twist rate of the rifling. Barrel doesn't have to be 10 inches long.
Wrong
10:01 I think it’s easier to picture the spinning of the bullet in relation to the original rifling rate. Say, you spin the bullet at 1:10 as it leaves the muzzle so, absent the loss of forward velocity, you can imagine the bullet at terminal performance replicating the rifling inside the target. If you assume that your rotational velocity loss is negligible, you should be able to calculate the forward velocity of the bullet at impact and reevaluate the ‘new’ effective rifling rate. I agree that once terminal ballistics are involved, the rotational velocity must be lost at least as much as forward velocity, if you assume that the bullet has expanded. So… The idea of a ‘buzzsaw’ effect doesn’t seem realistic. The petals of the expanded bullet seem to me to be doing a lot more work on the permanent wound cavity in a linear fashion than rotational. But I’m only theorizing. Anyway, more hole, more better.
Hey Ron, I have a question for you. My wife is looking for a new deer rifle to replace her pump action 243 win, since looking I've noticed there aren't as many semi auto deer rifles these days as there used to be (model 100, 7400) any thoughts on why this is? Love the content, thanks for all you do!
Right you are, sir. I assume it's simply demand. The bolt action has won the popularity contest due to its durability, simplicity, and easy long-range accuracy. Better precision triggers, too. In reality many if not most of the old autos were more than accurate enough for big game hunting to at least 300 yards. Browning still makes its excellent BAR sporting rifles. AR-15s and 10s have taken over the autoloading market due to modularity and familiarity (military.)
@RonSpomerOutdoors thanks for taking the time to respond, greatly appreciate it and sharing all of your wonderful experiences and knowledge!
@@RonSpomerOutdoors picked up an absolutely beautiful 7400 in 270win today wife is over the moon she doesn't have to pump anymore lol.
About muzzle blast, how about electronic Ear Plugs? Not muffs
Those should work. Just check the promised level of dB reduction. Get as close to 30 as you can. I often double up, elect. muffs over foam plugs.
At the range/plinking muffs of course, But when Hunting/stalking/roaming ? got a set of Walker plugs(but havn't used them yet)👍@@RonSpomerOutdoors
Found a flash foreward muzzle brake. Basically a 2 inch tube w the bullet hole w a ring of smaller holes in a concave face with the concave facing foreward. I think i got them from Cabellas but not sure. In any case, it throws the flames & sound foreward & acts as a muzzle brake too. Took all the birdcage " flash supressors" ( a term i never really understood because they dont hide the flash at all.) standard AR units off & replaced em with the flash foreward units. MUCH quieter for the shooter & thoes off to the side but really loud for thoes on the receiving end. Granted, i still wear my headphones at the range but out hunting the report isnt nearly what it was before the switch. Its NOT a suppressor. Just blows most of the sound foreward.
"Brush Busting bullet" = Bullets that deflect somewhat less then "non" BBB.
That intro is a real cut up!
All those jokes from 10 minutes, 45 seconds and on, had me rolling. I had to go outside laughing to not wake up my wife in the next room!
Hey Ron keep up the great videos. I’m interested in getting a lite weight gun for walking in the western New York woods. I’m looking at the Cva scout takedown stainless steel 20” barrel in 243 Winchester. I wanted to know your thoughts on a 243 Winchester for white tail and potentially black bear if given the chance as well as using 243 with a 20” barrel. Imagine most shots would be easily 200 yards or less. If I’m lucky enough to be chosen any factory ammo suggestions?Thank you from a younger viewer at 20 years old I enjoy both your main channel and podcast channel.
Garrett, I've long been a fan of the 243 Win and its contemporary, the 244/6mm Rem. I've taken a lot of whitetails, mule deer, and pronghorn with both. Just be sure to place your shots precisely and in line with the type of bullet. The more frangible bullets, and this includes the standard cup and cores, should be on or behind the shoulder, broadside. I once tried to finish a wounded, running whitetail by shooting at its backside. All the 105-grain cup-core round nose did was blow about 3 pounds of ham muscle to shreds. A tougher bullet might have --- likely would have -- broken the leg bone. The deer expired from the initial chest shot in short order anyway. You'll likely lose about 50- to 100-fps with that 20" barrel, leaving you with a 100-gr. at about 2,900 to 3,000 fps, but different bullets and factory loads will vary this considerably. Regardless, the deer won't notice the difference and inside of 300 yards you likely won't either. I'd use bonded core bullets of 80 to 100 grains or the heaviest expanding copper your barrel will stabilize.
@@RonSpomerOutdoors thank you so much for the response. I personally am a 308 enjoyer and that’s what I’ve always taken my deer with. This year I tried all copper for the first time with a 165 grain Barnes tsx loaded from federal and loved the performance. For the 243 I was thinking about trying the 85 grain tsx or a the 95 grain bonded fusion from federal.
I got DEET on my Remington SPS and it turned the stock and butt pad sticky, and is slowly melting it away.
Deet will do that clean with soap and hot water, but first remove the stock from the rifle.
Ron shoots Bunny Wabbits and Snipes with 50 BMG. He claims it is all shot placement.
Hi Ron,
I was wondering if you think a 505 Gibbs would be good for Blacktail deer?
it would kill a deer. the ammo is expensive as shit and kicks more than you can probably handle so it would be a really dumb thing to do. but it would work. that's a stopping rifle for the big 5 .Get some training and maybe you may understand how ridiculous this question is.
Actually not a stupid question, if your going on Safari it would be good practice using it in the field!
Now the .308 gets way more hate than it deserves, and it does deserve some of the haters it draws. However it does have some decent attributes and versatility, sure there are things better if you’re willing to take more recoil or lose lose some velocity to reduce recoil, but it’s useful. Heck I’ve even tried to get away from it, but yet everyone me I think I’m done I either find old ammo or cheap ammo and say hey it wouldn’t hurt to have around. Plus everyone makes a rifle chambered for it so you’ve got options, and it helps to set up a rifle that fits you so options helps that.
Without hating on 308, Ron wouldn't have a show.
At one point ammo manufacturers use cordite rods instead of powder
* What I've found somewhat peculiar is that with these newer high BC bullets, and faster twist rate barrels, the gun manufacturers are producing rifles with shorter barrels. Kind of defeats the purpose, IMO.
That does sound a bit weird, doesn't it. But it's the desire for silencers that drives the short barrel phenomenon. And the higher B.C.s still reduce wind deflection. You do get more drop due to lower MVs.
@@RonSpomerOutdoors * That makes sense, but the cost and the laws in some areas eliminate that option for many.
30-06 is best girl.
It’s not the cartridge we have a problem with in the 6.5 needmore it’s the people who own them 🤔😳😂 how do you say they need therapy without sounding crazy yourself😳
Just want share an experience. When I began hunting with my 16” 300 Hamr AR it was the first rifle with that short a barrel I’d ever hunted with. I was concerned about having the muzzle blast so close to me. I put a linear front forwarding brake on it. The first time I got a deer in my sights I just fired it and forgot to use my ear protection. I winced thinking “ there goes my hearing for a couple of hours”. But to my surprise there was no ear ringing at all! What that particular brake does is put all the noise and most importantly all the percussion forward and while still loud it does cut down on the normal after effect that you would normally experience. Now I’m sure it’s not “hearing safe” but it’s way better than a straight muzzle! For the record no supersonic round fired through an AR with a suppressor is hearing safe. It seems to me that if you hunt with a AR you’ll need hearing protection regardless. Why spend so much for a suppressor when these linear brakes are well under $100?
458 Lott dont need long barrels cartridge wise. It is not overbore. 22 inch is a lot of barrel for a Lott.. In a 270 is 22 inch short. 270 is a overbore magnum.
I am the proud owner of 2 fine 458 Lott rifles. I have to say that it would be a TERRIBLE single rifle to own. I only shoot mine after extensive practice with lesser calibers working up from 7,300,375 and 416 calibers.
Respect the game you are hunting. Rifle caliber choice shouldn’t be made solely on “Macho” calibers but instead on the most effective calibers that you can honestly and accurately shoot very well.
If you can afford a 458 Lott then you can afford multiple rifles in more reasonable cartridges
how can a massive round be best all round? simply impossible
Depends how much you like to eat game meat🤔😳 at least you won’t have to gut it or pack much out since there won’t be much left😳😂
Hydrostatic shock is not a misnomer. It refers to a shock wave propagating through a stationary fluid. I think this is the 3rd or 4th episode discussing this and so far it has all been speculation and opinion. Until there are facts of some kind to discuss you should give it a rest.
458 Lott...all around?
Yeah, it'll kill everything... so far.
But that doesn't mean "all around". At least not in MY book.
But I like mine.
It is like Phil Schomacher said on your show (great interview BTW!)....
It's about putting the bullet in the right place.
I've done ok with lighter "deer" cartridges.... But I still have fun with my Lott, too.
458 lott a good all around cartridge? The stupidity of some people amazes me.
Absolutely not, a 375 is way more versatile.
I am the proud owner of 2 fine 458 Lott rifles. I have to say that it would be a TERRIBLE single rifle to own. I only shoot mine after extensive practice with lesser calibers working up from 7,300,375 and 416 calibers.
Respect the game you are hunting. Rifle caliber choice shouldn’t be made solely on “Macho” calibers but instead on the most effective calibers that you can honestly and accurately shoot very well.
My apologies if this posted twice