How To Install A Water Heater to Code
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- If you're in need of an experienced plumber, in the San Jose area, that can install a water heater to code - you should contact Done-Right! Rooter and Plumbing at (888) 379-0166, or visit our website:www.donerightrooter.com/
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I bought this water heater ruclips.net/user/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
Amazing! Thanks for sharing this video about plumbing.
Excellent,comprehensive info---thx for posting!
So happy you did this video. I need this information. Thank you.
Down here in So Cal inspectors will call you out everytime if you use ANYTHING other than copper for the T.P. valve!
GREAT info, I would've installed it, but not up to code, with the basic measurements. Thanks for sharing!
It's interesting I have gone all over the internet and the explanation is spot on. Yes gas valve in wrong location and pvc is cheap looking but outside of those observations the unistrut idea is ingenious. I have seen the the most ridiculous over complicated strapping design that unistruts put to sleep. Thank you for the video.
Thank you!
sometimes you cant get a slope for the t&p drain line. i think if you dont, dont you have to have a access drain valve to accommodate for this?
can you add more length to the roof vent tube to get more suction? If so how much would I need to add? My draft is marginal. And I have no pipe restriction.
This video was posted in 2011. There have been a few code changes then that may apply to you.
WOW !! , thank you very much , Your video is full of explanations it really helps me out too much, Deeply apreciated
This video was published in 2011. There have been a few code changes since then.
I had the water heater moved outside, the plumber installed a box to shield it from the weather. Problem is that the 4" rod won't be able to be removed because there is only 18" clearance at the top, not that I have yet tried it as it's newly installed. How can I get around that problem, thanks.
Dude, you might want to install that gas line valve on the correct side; upstream of the flexible connector.
Single Story house. Water heater in the garage. 3" B-vent pipe goes thru' the roof near the eave. Nearest roof peak is about 4 1/2 ft above ceiling. Does the vent pipe need to terminate higher the roof peak? CA mechanical code 802.6.1: "Gas vents that are over 12 inches (300 mm) in size or are located less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate ...not less than 2 feet above a portion of a building within 10 feet." Is the roof surface itself considered an obstruction to the vent pipe? Thanks.
super video
couldn't you have the tp line or a pan that spout out or stubs out right over a floor drain? Not connecting them just have the stub 6" above the floor drain vs running it outside.
Did not show the pan. What does it look like? Thank you
Check out International Residential Building Code G2408.2; The 18" elevation is no longer required for heaters with Fuel Vapor Ignition Resistant burners. And that basically means most any water heater manufactured since 2003..
It's called a "Flammable Vapor Ignition-Resistant system," not a "Fuel Vapor Ignition Resistant burner."
Any water heater with such a system must state in the owner's manual that the product is FVIR certified. Some local codes still require the 18" elevation.
If it's going in a garage that's big enough to park a car in then they want to see it on a stand.
It’s comes down to local codes, some still require it
code requirements, just another way to take your money
Does anyone know of any fire codes? Specifically regarding storing stuff in the vicinity.
no drip pockets, or legs in any area such a garage if freezing can happen...likely not in san jose
What burns the most fat at the gym?
make another video but inside the house, on a platform, or stand and by code , thanks
Damn, my heater still has plumber's tape I installed about 10 years ago. :-(
Why is it that everyone seems to contradict or correct what someone does, when they claim they are professional and are trained for these things? Does everyone who is trained not know what they are doing?? I don't understand.
LOL, YOU HAVE ONE GUY THAT REPAIRS THEM AND THAT'S ALL HE DOES ...AND HE ALSO DOES INSTALLATION
If the water heater is installed in the house in the closet...can it sit on the floor or does it have to be raised and put on a stand....
No, it only needs to be raised in garage so the burner is 18" from the floor.
No Sediment Trap on gas valve on tank, needs metal pipe on T/P valve with in 4" of the floor.
you have to be 6" off the floor in cali and pvc is legal
+kreed707
cali rule: A water heater supported from the ground shall rest on level concrete or other approved base extending not less than 3” above the adjoin-ing ground level. (2010 CPC 508.3)
@@JustinCrediblename That's referes to the exterior grade. And, I have yet to see a home built to code where the foundation concrete is below grade.
@@johnkuckowicz781 ah. thanks, john.
Hey done-right --where is your sediment trap? Why not use copper--it's not that expensive...
Gas shut off valve is wrong, is there a drip leg? PT&R materials, PT&R needs to go to exterior (CODE Required) Depending on climate zone may be other violations. This is why we have inspections there are several corrections needed. Not too bad but if a person is going to do a video, let's get it right.
Pressure line is supposed to be copper per code.
what happens when the pan gets full of water and spills over?
install a drain line on the pan...such things can easily be done after the fact, but it's tough to install a pan with a full hot water heater, lemmetellya
Achisachis73 and it will
The water heater pans have a drain connection. Even though the water heater is in the garage, the city inspector made me pipe it and the T&P drain all the way out of the garage to a visible discharge location.
I'm screwed, my water heater is in the attic
is this plumber? or bus driver CA code PVC PIPE its not OK FOR RELIVE VALVE
CPVS OR COPPER #2 if water heater in garage. post should be installed to keep a car from hitting it.
#3 gas shut off valve wrong
cpvc, bro. cpvc.
My water heater is in the garage and the inspector said the TP has to drain OUTSIDE
In a garage I believe it only has to vent downward to 6 inches above the floor, what you don't want is it to be unvented, then if the valve ever fails someones getting sprayed in the face with upwards of 150 degree water.
In Dana Point, California, the local code states, "When replacing an existing water heater, the T & P may be re-installed to drain to the garage floor provided the new installation is in the existing location." Outside drainage is required only if installing the water heater in a new location.
My SF Bay Area city inspector also made me pipe it outside to a visible discharge point.
This is a joke! The gas valve is on the heater control valve! The last place you want to terminate the Temperature and Pressure relief valve is to the garage floor possibly setting someone up to get scalded if or when it ever discharged at the right moment.
Leave it to California to overcomplicate the simplest of things like mounting something to a wall.
As usual, you don't know what you're talking about, Donald Trump. The straps are intended to resist horizontal movement of the water heater during an earthquake. The details of how the straps are should mounted are determined by engineers, not politicians.
The state of California says very little about how to attach the straps: "CPC 507.2 Seismic Provisions. Water heaters shall be anchored or strapped to resist horizontal displacement due to earthquake motion. Strapping shall be at points within the upper one third (1/3) and lower one-third (1/3) of its vertical dimensions. At the lower point, a minimum distance of four (4) inches (102 mm) shall be maintained above the controls with the strapping."
As you can see, the state leave the details of how to mount the straps to the walls to your imagination. BTW, the state code is basically reprinting the national plumbing code.
However, the cities and counties can add additional requirements. The only thing my city adds to the state requirement is that the straps must be 1-1/2" wide, 18 gauge, and anchored to the framing members with 3/8” dia. lag bolts. Other cities specify different widths and gauges.
You missed that you have to anchor the heater stand to the floor!!!!!
no just earthquake straps on a 18" stand with 5/8 fire board between heater and stand
LOL, PVC for pressure release valve? Rated for 150 degrees? Umm, no. You need copper pipe as your water can be well over 200 degrees. I guess this video was made 10 years ago but this advice should not be taken.
CPVC, not PVC. CPVC is commonly rated for 180 degrees and schedule 80 CPVC is rated for 200 degrees.
this water heater is not code.. the gas valve needs to be before the gas flex not after . and why not run the t/p and pan line outside?? its pointless cause the water is going to go to the same place, the garage floor and then it will wick into the sheet rock just like you said ... also no insulation on the water lines, to prevent freezing or heat loss .
It is common to have a concrete stem wall in the garage so a wet floor from any reason does not wick into drywall. Just saying . . .
CPVC IS RATED FOR 180, TP OPENS AT 210, INSTANT FAIL BRO. CPVC IS NOT LEGAL OR CODE APPROVED. NEVER HAS BEEN.
CPVC is rated up to 200 F. A T&P valve opens at 150 psi *OR* 210 F. I can't find anything in the California Plumbing Code or my local code that indicates that CPVC is not allowed for T&P drainage. I found at least one California city that specificallty lists CPVC among the materials approved for this application. If CPVC is not allowed for T&P valve drains, then why do Home Depot and Lowes both stock CPVC drain assemblies for T&P valves in their water heater sections? Both retailers are quick to pull products that do not meet state requirements.
He says " We know a lot about water heaters. I've got a guy who's a master at what he does." And it a good thing too, because I'm a fricken idiot!
He conveniently leaves out several key elements because he is basically saying. This video isn't about teaching you how to replace a water heater. It's about me talking down to you to make you feel inferior and it's best to just call him to do it.
Ive been in construction for over thirty years and all I can say is this guy is an arrogant shmuck! He talks down to the customer and acts like he is the authority on water heater installation. But, there are several mistakes so his credibility is suspect at best.
1) The gas shut off valve should be installed before the flex line to allow the replacement of the flex line or water heater without turning off the gas at the main.
2) The platform needs to be anchored to the floor.
3) He talks about the strapping and the pan like that is the most important thing you need to know but never says one word about venting! The venting of the gas fumes which if not done properly can be a serious safety hazard but, he doesn't mention one word about it!
4) There is no mention of the water connections and shut off valves.
5) He doesn't use copper for the T&P line because he's cheap and doesn't care about the quality of his work. Copper is a far superrior material and doesn't crack or melt like CPVC can. We're talking about the difference in about $25 in materials here.
I could go on but I think you get the picture. Don't call this guy!
Yup!!! That water heater is probably back drafting like a son of a bitch!
the gas valve placement LOL what the fuck! I
+David Vanni
How do you know that there isn't a gas shutoff valve behind the hot water heater? Perhaps there must be an accessible gas shutoff valve with requirements which preclude its location being behind the water heater.
He also neglects to mention that the water heater shouldn't be located underwater or on the moon!
whaat? CPVC is rated for hot water... It should only crack with UV exposure.
Justin Crediblename there's no sediment trap! This would fail in Texas!
true
Or you could just get an Instant Hot Water Heater, Install it and Not Worry about ANY of this Crap.
+faffaflunkie We actually looked at the Instant aka Tankless Hot Water Heater to replace our broken "conventional" gas water heater. It's ALOT more work and therefore $$$$, you need 3/4" gas line because of the very high BTU draw when Tankless Heaters run. You need dedicated combustion air feed line again super high BTU when running. Same with an Exhaust Vent. Also an Electric Outlet is needed because of the Electronics built into these guys.
If you are building a house these are easy items to incorporate while constructing, but to retrofit/upgrade for a house built in the 1950's...it's a lot of money to put this stuff in.
Then just go Electric. More expensive to run- depending on your area- but no exhaust.
+faffaflunkie it's easier just to buy a marathon by Rheem which has a lifetime warranty on a tank since it's not metal. Or if you after efficiency and saving money heat pump water heater is way more efficient than tankless
+grandsonofkong
not to mention that those things always need some kind of wacky ass maintenance.
+EVGeny Ananyev
If you're gonna go with an expensive-to-run electric hot water heater and you want it to last a while, then Westinghouse makes a 316L stainless water heater for 600 bucks. The tank should last a few lifetimes. It doesn't degrade with exposure to oxygen or ozone like plastic does.
Snooty; but helpful.
THIS INSTALLATION IS A JOKE BRO, LMAO.
I hope this is THE BEFORE installation and not what you just installed.
This guy appears to have been drinking - check out the weird hand gestures and various high pitches of his voice. First time i saw him i thought what a poser he knows nothing about w/h's now i guess he's posing in some other bizarre way.
I think nobody should call this company!
No offense, but you really come off as an untrustworthy sales con man almost. I wouldn't hire you to do plumbing in my house it seems like you would always be trying to upsell. But I guess I won't have to worry about that cuz I'm a plumber
This video has to be a joke, right? Anyone who is unfamiliar with plumbing should not watch this video. Unbelievable......total garbage information.
If his water heater installations were not up to code when this video was published in 2011, then surely the code violations would have been flagged and corrected.
Why? You have no proof. 🤔