Do water heaters require Localized Disconnects? Learn it - Get it - Teach it.
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2023
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This is great, you explain so well.
Thanks brother! Keep grinding!
We are installing a circuit for a condenser. It’s with in sight. Conduit + rain tight connector + rigid coupling + nmf
Good morning coach. Thanks for the video.
Good to know, getting ready to do this in a garage trim out and final… panel is obviously in sight with water heater… but gut feeling telling me to play it safe and just add a disco or somehow a surface mount box with a 30A two pole toggle. Thanks again for these vids
Thanks Perry, that is a great alternative to the large clunky expensive disconnect box, or the expensive double pole high amperage switch that would be required. The last water heater I put in did not have room for that. I have got to pick up some of those breaker lockouts.
Brilliant spotlighting of workaround for clunky, expensive disconnects.
Informative..
my newly installed electric hot water heater is in the laundry room. i had plenty of room for a wall mounted shut off.
I've never seen those clunky disconnects being used: just a rated toggle switch (might be 2pole, 240V, or 30Amp). Thanks for the lockout tip.
They're big in our area, thanks for sharing!
Great info Coach. Shouldn't this article apply to HVAC equipment as well?
HVAC has their own disconnect rules I'll have to dive into that and refresh on it and perhaps make us a video
Hey Coach, thank you again for a great video. Along the same lines, would a ‘motor rated switch’ of adequate amperage work in either case (Water heater or the outdoor compressor unit)? The code says ‘switch’ but I never see a switch. I only see these pull type disconnects. Again, thank you.
I just moved into. A new Apt. They converted a school into apts. They have baseboard heat. Also electric furnace. The very first day I moved in. 3 different tenants told me about there 250.00- 300.00 a month electric bill. so I turned of the breaker for the baseboard heat. And the hot water heater also gets shut down. I could be truly wrong here. But doesn't each unit have to have its own designated circuit breaker. I should still have hot water if I turn off the baseboard heat
So those electric water heaters that have a plug for means of disconnect would not qualifiy as a means of disconnect related to NEC requirements correct???
Great video. Question for you. If I can turn the breaker off, then lock the panel cover, does that satisfy the “locked out” requirement?
Good question, I wanna know that. I would bet, NO.
If you're referring to like a lockable disconnect then yes in my opinion
That sounds like an altogether different kind of hazard. The purpose of the disco is to protect the service personnel while servicing the device that gets locked out. Where you might run into a problem is if some other part of the electrical system were to go into a bad fault because an entirely different circuit breaker were to become defective and Noone else could have access to turn the circuit off.
@@ElectricalCodeCoach He is talking about a lockable panel cover that locks out all breakers.
I’m look at this code section on the 2023 NEC and the text changed from watts to volts.
In the 17 and 20 it says volt amps which for our purposes is equivalent to Watts Good eye!
Hi guy. What is material of wire gauge on your website. I gonna get one. Thank you.
PVC
Well, this is an interesting discussion. Why not use a NEMA L14-30 be done with it? The clunky disconnects are relatively cheep at around $30, but the area is more of a challenge. My breaker is in the garage where the water heaters is in the basement.
That is a great thought! One would have to follow all the list of instructions, and depending on what code cycle and location of the water heater it may end up having to be GFCI protected which would get expensive
@@ElectricalCodeCoach oh - I forgot about that. Great point !
I've installed breaker locks in panels before and have had inspectors make me instal disconnects. The bosses just gave in to not have beef with the inspector
Isn't that how it always goes? You wanna argue with the inspector who's gonna give you a hard time on every job after? Or just give in. It sucks
We've ran into the same issue here. Oftentimes the local codes where I work are more stringent than the NEC requirements. So our company practice is to install a 30 amp double pole toggle switch in a surface mount box on the basement wall then run our 10/2 NM through a length of flex to the water heater, if the breaker box is not within sight. For central air conditioning, as well as appliances larger than 30 amps we use disconnect switchs by Eaton with the pull out handle type. One of my coworkers initially failed a CO inspection because the crew installed standard 15 amp receptacles in the kitchen, yes the kitchen had the two 20 amp circuits as required, but the inspector wanted the NEMA 5-20 receptacles, so my boss was nearby and stopped to read the code book to the inspector, and he let it slide. Some inspectors shouldn't even be inspectors, to put it lightly.
It wears me out lol
I just install appliance cords on all my water heaters
that worked in years gone by, but now that receptacle will have to be GFCI. A lock-out on the breaker will certainly be cheaper.
Joking but gfci is required now either way as of 23
Not all water heaters are listed to have a cord
@@1patrickx I'm not aware of any water heater today that are listed for a cord and plug. Years ago however that seemed to have been accepted. I ran across this when helping my stepfather replace the water heater in his 1973 ranch home. The water heater was connected via a piece of 10/2 NM wired to a 240V 30 amp plug and receptacle NEMA 6-30. The breaker box is in a bedroom closet, water heater on the other end of the home in the laundry/utility room. We simply hooked the new heater like the old one.
I have a question with the table 210-24. Could you make a video about this table and explain what the word taps refers to?