Thanks for the video. I would have never guessed it was your first time repairing the pump. You look like a pro, seems like you have done it a thousand times before. Great job!
Funny fact, 17 years ago I was daily driving BMW 524 TD automatic, one time after not normal acceleration my transmission has failed. I didn't want to spend 350 euros for the repair and went to a workshop for consultation. So the guy who consulted me was practically laughing at my face and gave one piece of advice: disassemble it and place every part in the order that you took out. After two weekends my BMW was roadworthy again. Since then I'm trying to fix it all by myself :) Anyways, sorry for the long story. Appreciate your opinion, thanks!
@@Gadomaitis first time you will use a electric lift pump to feed vp37 properly for highed power levels... that seal will fail. If i would pull ot the pump and then seen i haven't all the seals needed for a complete job, i would let alone until i get that seal which missing. Just to not work twice for the same thing.
@@napraznicul Last time I used gravity feed to fill the pump, anyways this was my first attempt working on an injection pump and I can see that I'm fortunate, that it didn't fail from spinning completely dry after assembly. I wasn't to bothered about that seal, correct me if I'm wrong, the seal can be replaced without removing the injection pump from the engine? Not me, sometimes I need to redo my work three times, even though I do not want it and I would love not to come back.
@@Gadomaitis Yes, that seal could be replaced even with pump on position (on engine), before to fix pump gear. Your pump isn't feed by gravity, but by suction made by mechanical feed pump which is integrated in the front part of the vp37 pump. It make some 0.4bar of suction from the filter>fuel tank. at stock diameters of fuel lines. PS: using some thick grease and gravity (on lifters to incline car in the sense of keeping parts inside pump) you could reseal the pump easily ON THE ENGINE SUPPORT. Only for the front seal you have to pull out timming belt, obviously. You were lucky to choose correct position for that plate which can be put in two positions (0-180°). At my first try i wasn't very careful and assembled pump with plate in wrong position 🤣.. never start engine, just make nasty smoke - very wrong moment of injection.
@@napraznicul I meant last time I filled the pump with diesel from external bottle above the pump (gravity feed). Intresting, I was pretty sure you can't replace seals on the engine, just because of those lifters :D Good to know, I will keep it in mind. I can feel you, you know that ring on the shaft? The one that has a hole and into that hole you need to place the pump's head? I was watching my raw video to make sure, it's on the right side
There are 2 rubber seals under that black plastic electrical plug. It’s a pain in the ass to change I think the wiring is spot welded so you have to clip the wires where they come into the pump under the black plastic cover with 2 nuts holding it down next to slide valve, I soldered them back together very well you need to use flux or solder with flux in it so the solder really bonds well because vibrations aren’t good for solder it makes it crack, the plastic cover will help from cracking. If you take the bolts off the black plastic electric plug you can pull the plug back a little to see how the 2 seals look and if they look decent then just put some fuel resistant rtv to make sure it seals you don’t need much but I would atleast do that so it doesn’t leak. I gotta say it’s pretty dumb how the Bosch reseal kits don’t come with the front shaft seal for the pumps.
Thanks for your advice, really helpful. I completely forgot about the seals behind the cover, to be honest, haven't seen them leaking. I agree about the kit without the front shaft seal, though I had it faulty only once. My old VW Golf 1.6 TD, powered with a mechanical fuel pump had a leaking front shaft seal. Changed it and the price of the seal was only ~1eur. Once again, they should add it to the KIT.
Hi, I have released 2 out of 3 front screws, started the engine, released the third one while holding the pump, then slightly moved the pump and tightened the same screw. Switched off the engine and tightened the rest of the screws.
The one, that's in the bottom of the pump? Yes, you can, easily, there is a screen filter that requires to be cleaned. The most dangerous and difficult part is the end , where the biggest o ring is, whee the pipes connects.
I got a small leak between the fuelpump housing and the head that connects the fuel lines, do you think it’s possible to replace the O-ring mounted on the engine with all the springs?
Hello, A nice video, but at about 5.26 into the video, you showed unscrewing the large , sorry I do not know what it is called, but then you sped past re installing it. My Audi A4 seems to be leaking from that large fitting, can I unscrew it all the way out, whilst the injector pump is still on the engine? Thank you
hi mate, I know this might be a long shot but ill give it a go, I have t25 1.6 diesel, blow up the cylinder head so I bought a new cylinder head with new head gasket and changed the piston rings and camshaft. still having problems with having power to keep it running I have to keep my foot on the accelerator and sometimes it doesn't even run. my first thoughts were furl pump . any thoughts would be appreciated thanks
Great work trying this without ever having done something similar before! Have you filled the pump with diesel before the installation? It reduces the time the pump is running dry and the engine can start quicker.
Hi I have 2005 model skoda octavia diesel my Bosch pump is leaking diesel car is cranking but not starting fuel is not coming from fuel tank to engine bay fuel filter please help can air cause this problem ?
Not every single aerosol combusts, I have tried brake cleaner, the one I had wasn't. Another thing, I always have cockpit cleaner on hand, can't say the same thing about brake cleaner.
Firstly aligned the pump mark with the casing mark, or placed it approx in the middle, cant remember. Than I have used VCDS . This is exactly how I did it: ruclips.net/video/xCXLWt49C20/видео.html
You are brilliant... Have you tried to run the vw on black diesel fuel given today's world and fuel prices. Would you have to adjust timing to run it on the black diesel?
Thanks. I have tried running mix of diesel and used engine oil (50/50) on my old MB W123 with 2.4 diesel engine. It ran alright but I have noticed that after one fuel tank my fuel pump started to give white smoke. Probably lots of micro particles in the waste oil extremely fastens the wear of fuel injection system. After this expirement, big no to black diesel. Another expirement was with waste cooking oil on my Westfalia went far more better, same amount - mix of 50/50. It ran completely fine, smelled like "pancakes" and no visual damage on fuel infection system via smoke. I think, that no adjustment on ignition timing is needed
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Thanks for the video.
I would have never guessed it was your first time repairing the pump. You look like a pro, seems like you have done it a thousand times before.
Great job!
Funny fact, 17 years ago I was daily driving BMW 524 TD automatic, one time after not normal acceleration my transmission has failed. I didn't want to spend 350 euros for the repair and went to a workshop for consultation. So the guy who consulted me was practically laughing at my face and gave one piece of advice: disassemble it and place every part in the order that you took out. After two weekends my BMW was roadworthy again. Since then I'm trying to fix it all by myself :)
Anyways, sorry for the long story. Appreciate your opinion, thanks!
Great video thanks for making this for us
Thanks!
But WHY don't you change too that front shaft seal, that which if will become loose, will let diesel fuel to go on all timming belt?
Just because it wasn't in the kit and i forgot to buy one.
@@Gadomaitis first time you will use a electric lift pump to feed vp37 properly for highed power levels... that seal will fail.
If i would pull ot the pump and then seen i haven't all the seals needed for a complete job, i would let alone until i get that seal which missing. Just to not work twice for the same thing.
@@napraznicul Last time I used gravity feed to fill the pump, anyways this was my first attempt working on an injection pump and I can see that I'm fortunate, that it didn't fail from spinning completely dry after assembly. I wasn't to bothered about that seal, correct me if I'm wrong, the seal can be replaced without removing the injection pump from the engine? Not me, sometimes I need to redo my work three times, even though I do not want it and I would love not to come back.
@@Gadomaitis Yes, that seal could be replaced even with pump on position (on engine), before to fix pump gear. Your pump isn't feed by gravity, but by suction made by mechanical feed pump which is integrated in the front part of the vp37 pump. It make some 0.4bar of suction from the filter>fuel tank. at stock diameters of fuel lines.
PS: using some thick grease and gravity (on lifters to incline car in the sense of keeping parts inside pump) you could reseal the pump easily ON THE ENGINE SUPPORT. Only for the front seal you have to pull out timming belt, obviously.
You were lucky to choose correct position for that plate which can be put in two positions (0-180°). At my first try i wasn't very careful and assembled pump with plate in wrong position 🤣.. never start engine, just make nasty smoke - very wrong moment of injection.
@@napraznicul I meant last time I filled the pump with diesel from external bottle above the pump (gravity feed).
Intresting, I was pretty sure you can't replace seals on the engine, just because of those lifters :D Good to know, I will keep it in mind. I can feel you, you know that ring on the shaft? The one that has a hole and into that hole you need to place the pump's head? I was watching my raw video to make sure, it's on the right side
There are 2 rubber seals under that black plastic electrical plug. It’s a pain in the ass to change I think the wiring is spot welded so you have to clip the wires where they come into the pump under the black plastic cover with 2 nuts holding it down next to slide valve, I soldered them back together very well you need to use flux or solder with flux in it so the solder really bonds well because vibrations aren’t good for solder it makes it crack, the plastic cover will help from cracking. If you take the bolts off the black plastic electric plug you can pull the plug back a little to see how the 2 seals look and if they look decent then just put some fuel resistant rtv to make sure it seals you don’t need much but I would atleast do that so it doesn’t leak. I gotta say it’s pretty dumb how the Bosch reseal kits don’t come with the front shaft seal for the pumps.
Thanks for your advice, really helpful. I completely forgot about the seals behind the cover, to be honest, haven't seen them leaking. I agree about the kit without the front shaft seal, though I had it faulty only once. My old VW Golf 1.6 TD, powered with a mechanical fuel pump had a leaking front shaft seal. Changed it and the price of the seal was only ~1eur. Once again, they should add it to the KIT.
Thanks for the video but how did you move the pump to adjust timming?
Hi, I have released 2 out of 3 front screws, started the engine, released the third one while holding the pump, then slightly moved the pump and tightened the same screw. Switched off the engine and tightened the rest of the screws.
@@Gadomaitis thanks mate really appreciate your help
@@joeyskip89 no worries!!
good work DomiG.
Thanks Bukaru.
The white electric connexion with short black cable. Can we replace its watchers and its O rings without causing problem?
The one, that's in the bottom of the pump? Yes, you can, easily, there is a screen filter that requires to be cleaned. The most dangerous and difficult part is the end , where the biggest o ring is, whee the pipes connects.
@@Gadomaitis thanks a lot for your precious advices . I will follow them
@@jonyhopkins1 no worries, my pleasure
Please what is the exact reference of this pump : VE , or VP 37 or what exactly . Thinks
Hey, it's VP 37 pump
Good job G! 👌😊
Thanks Rutt!!
Nicely done 😀
Thanks!
I got a small leak between the fuelpump housing and the head that connects the fuel lines, do you think it’s possible to replace the O-ring mounted on the engine with all the springs?
Hi, honestly, I don't think it's possible.
@@Gadomaitis cheers for the quick answer, will remove it before i open it then. have a good one!
No worries, cheers, G!
Hello,
A nice video, but at about 5.26 into the video, you showed unscrewing the large , sorry I do not know what it is called, but then you sped past re installing it.
My Audi A4 seems to be leaking from that large fitting, can I unscrew it all the way out, whilst the injector pump is still on the engine?
Thank you
Hi, you can check at this video ruclips.net/video/Xd092i60KVQ/видео.htmlsi=bthWixNmnLwHNRhp&t=451 , this bolt can bolt can be unscrewed on car
Thanks for tge video.
Do you have the bolts tightening torque?
Thanks.
Not really, just seen somewhere the torq for these 2 bolts.
@@Gadomaitis Understood. Do you still know the torque for them?
Thanks again for the very good video
Maybe it was around 20 or something.
I have a vw t3 1.9 and I am looking for the method for modefecation the pump has tdi-m
does this video help me?
Hard to tell
NICE ! good job
Thanks!
hi! it isnt necessary to remove any air from de fuel lines is it?
If I would do the same task now, I would fill the pump with fuel via one of the screws for fuel
Ты как всегда крут)
Spasibo!!
Hi I have a problem with leaking injector pump can fix the problem it’s 1.9 tdi
Hi, I believe you can.
hi mate, I know this might be a long shot but ill give it a go, I have t25 1.6 diesel, blow up the cylinder head so I bought a new cylinder head with new head gasket and changed the piston rings and camshaft.
still having problems with having power to keep it running I have to keep my foot on the accelerator and sometimes it doesn't even run. my first thoughts were furl pump . any thoughts would be appreciated thanks
Hi, in my opinion, something is wrong with belt ignition timing or pump angle ( in case you have moved it).
How much time is this job star to finish
Something like 2 to 3 hours
Great work trying this without ever having done something similar before!
Have you filled the pump with diesel before the installation? It reduces the time the pump is running dry and the engine can start quicker.
Thanks!
I haven't filled it, I thought that cockpit cleaner will do the job and prime it quite quickly. Next time I would fill it with diesel.
Hi I have 2005 model skoda octavia diesel my Bosch pump is leaking diesel car is cranking but not starting fuel is not coming from fuel tank to engine bay fuel filter please help can air cause this problem ?
Hi, i doubt it, does it start with help of aerosols?
@ yes it starts then it stops again after 10 sec
it really looks like an air issue, does it throws any faults?
@ I haven’t scanned yet
Why cocpit cleaner and not brake cleaner just wonder.
Not every single aerosol combusts, I have tried brake cleaner, the one I had wasn't. Another thing, I always have cockpit cleaner on hand, can't say the same thing about brake cleaner.
Like 1.9dti Renault pomp
Might be, what model and years have the same pump?
@@Gadomaitis for example : my 2001 kangoo 1.9dti 80hp... Laguna 1999 with 1.9 dti engin 110 hp
Thanks, nice to now it. I'm planing to swap my VW T3 mechanical pump with with these ones, so it's very useful. Thanks, Cheers, G.
@@Gadomaitis welkom good luck
How and where exactly you did the adjustment on the pompe ?
Firstly aligned the pump mark with the casing mark, or placed it approx in the middle, cant remember. Than I have used VCDS . This is exactly how I did it: ruclips.net/video/xCXLWt49C20/видео.html
@@Gadomaitis I've sought that, but it was quite unclear for me where should make the modifications on the pompe.
Have you found the marking on the pump and case?
@@Gadomaitis I wasn't yet outside 🙄, next time I will take a look.
Are there any documents for the pump? For example an exploded view or a repair guide ?
👍
The best
Thanks
De donde a salido este mecánico es el mejor del mundo 🌎
Thank you so much for your kind words! I truly appreciate your support. I work hard to provide the best service possible!
your alternator is very high !
It looks pretty normal for me. Why do you think so? It's not touching the lid
@@Gadomaitis you did not lower the engine ?
@@jazjaz2364 well, slightly, but nothing major.
@@Gadomaitis yeah you modified the mounting :p
But why do you think it's high? Compared to my Westfalia 1.9 TDI engine, alternator touches the lid.
Malheureusement les moments de remontage délicats ne sont pas filmés
What in particular is mised? I thought I shot everything
You are brilliant...
Have you tried to run the vw on black diesel fuel given today's world and fuel prices. Would you have to adjust timing to run it on the black diesel?
Thanks. I have tried running mix of diesel and used engine oil (50/50) on my old MB W123 with 2.4 diesel engine. It ran alright but I have noticed that after one fuel tank my fuel pump started to give white smoke. Probably lots of micro particles in the waste oil extremely fastens the wear of fuel injection system. After this expirement, big no to black diesel. Another expirement was with waste cooking oil on my Westfalia went far more better, same amount - mix of 50/50. It ran completely fine, smelled like "pancakes" and no visual damage on fuel infection system via smoke. I think, that no adjustment on ignition timing is needed
@@Gadomaitis Did you try filtering the used oil first? With unfiltered oil you will probably destroy fuel system easy..
@@rkan2 good point, no I haven't, I have left it for some while so the heavy particles have settled on the bottom.