All of the work done here was inexpensive, but is going to keep inching the car closer to being a really great driver. Some folks pointed out the fact that "CC1" was missing from the build sheet/RPO codes and they were 100% right!
Wow. I came here for the abandoned race track and found this gem. I bought this exact car BRAND NEW, red with gold wheels however mine was an '88. It was about $20,000 out the door. At the time I was a teenager living with mom and dad sporting a $400 a month car payment and another $100 a month insurance payment. Cut the cats off and through a "power chip" in. It was a fast car by 1988 standards. My buddy at the time had an '85 Corvette and the GTA would run with it through the 1/4 mile. Never beat him but I was there front to rear fender every time. What great memories you have invoked. Nice find! I'm going to stick around awhile.
The aftermarket T Tops , I pointed that out when you first bought it , you have done a great job getting that car to this shape . Beautiful GTA , I had a black 89 and a white 89 GTA's .
Sounds like you had a couple of sweet cars! Slowly but surely this car will get dialed in. It has a long way to go, but itll get where I want it with some time and effort.
@@Greenlightfilming A guy can always tell after market t tops by the weather stripping around outside of glass. I noticed it had after market t tops in your first video.
My brother had it done to his 1978 trans am,back in like 1980, it was a aftermarket kit that made the glass longer across than factory,and was tinted by your aftermarket roof shops.
Bro I used to Drive a 1999/2000 Camaro. It was Jet Black handled like a dream...... I miss that car SOOOO much. I have been looking for another one since seeing your silver one there.... I will have another one... Oh Yes. I will.....
I might try a high mileage blend if nothing changes with the seafoam/oil that's in it now. Hoping the seafoam cleans some crud out of the engine this oil change if anything.
I miss my 89 black on black leather GTA factory ttop car. I mean it was by far my favorite car I ever owned I’d love to get another one. I had the 350 and factory ttops so yes you could get the 350 with the tops
You should have noticed the one big difference in the ttops not being factory. Factory you have to unlock them while sitting on the car, C&C you have to unlock while standing outside the car with the door open. My wife has C&C on her 87 iroc. Little metal tag in center console from the dealership it was done at.
I feel foolish, but I didnt take the t-tops off before buying it. That's one thing I actually completely forgot to do (I know, the t-bar can rust). Total airhead move. It probably made me miss that they were aftermarket entirely. Oh well. Live and learn.
I have the same valve stem seal issue, I've started using Valvoline high mileage oil that is available in either semi synthetic or full synthetic. It has agents that cause worn seals to swell, no blue puffs ever since!
The C&C tops are great, but given it's a T-top car I would recommend installing sub-frame connectors. I put on Alston Racing, only 20lbs and they do a fine job stiffening things up. Chassis flex is the achilles heel of all 3rd gens.
I would be inclined to agree with you on adding SFC's to any of these cars. I dont personally think it would hurt the value at all. Generally, I use UMI parts but I'll take a look at the Chris Alston parts you mentioned.
@@Greenlightfilming hey can I ask for some advice? My car was running like garbage, chased around codes forever, ended up replacing the ECM. Car runs great now but trans only has forward 2nd gear. No CEL, reverse works fine. I believe it's a 700R4 (4L60E came out a few years later, I believe). No trans problems before the running issue. Are there any sensors/relays that you know of that I should check that would put trans into limp mode? Car only has 26K original miles on it.
These T Tops are better than factory. There is more metal and the windscreen frame is much thicker, so less bodyflex. Have owned both and you can feel the difference. C&C also converted some of the cars used in Knight Rider that started life as hardtop.
Interesting comment here. I've read many many people saying similar about them being superior to the factory t-tops, and stronger. I have owned both but not at the same time. Wish I could drive one with each type right next to each other.
@@Greenlightfilming I have a black 88 5.7 GTA, still has the sticker from C&C from 88 stating the exact date work was done. They used to put the sticker on the underside of the tailgate.
I checked under the hatch of my car and there was nothing. Theres something missing on the drivers door jamb. The other factory stickers are there, so I presume it's the C&C tag missing.
The valve covers are how you know. All the newer roller cam engines use the center bolt valve covers and the flat taper cams still had the old style valve covers with the bolts around the edges.
You know, I heard tha that '87 was sort of a crossover year for flat tappet and roller cams having a center bolt head on them. Is there any truth to that? At first glance, I would have told you it's a roller cam. The internet can help, AND muddy the waters lol.
Haven't read the comments and only a few minutes in but it's C&C ttops. All the seals, as you may know by now, can be purchased through Sunroof Dr. I have them too. Nice car.
Thanks for the tip! I have seen the sunroof doctor link quite a few times online. Seems to be one of only a place or two that has stuff to fix these up.
@@Greenlightfilming also, no one reproduces the black plastic caps on the a and b pillars where they lock in so be careful with them, they break very easily!
Theres a couple of versions of them out there. Check out the "lift back" t-tops. They are pretty rare. They lift out like traditional tops, but the rear also lifts up like a sunroof. Super cool.
Nice to see you film the headlight motor repair on the Drivers Side instead of the passenger side. It seems like every video on RUclips of the repair is always on the passenger side. I’m about to tackle this repair myself and wondered just how hard and how much force you needed to get that gear to slip past the worm drive shaft when you removed it?
The driver's side is 10x harder to rebuild because it's assembled in a slightly different way than the passenger's side. It denoted that in the instructions, so I did the passenger's side first to get my feet wet. Overall this should only take someone a couple of hours if you are focused. I just worked the gear off with my hands and very basic tools. You certainly don't need to use much force.
I wish I would have thought of doing that. Live and learn I suppose! Thanks for the tip on checking the cubby in the trunk. So far I havent found the tag anywhere on the car. There appears to be something missing on my drivers door jamb. Might be where it was.
Make sure it has a rigid air dam under the radiator core support or it will overheat at speeds above 57mph. Put a wonder bar on it also. That locks the frame horns. If you are a fabricator. Put the pitman arm nut from a dodge or jeep pitman shaft bearing bracket and bend a rod to the bearing that bolts to the idler arm bolts. Be totally amazed at how much better it steers.
I had an 85 TPI ttops 305 and an 87 stick car.same set up i never seen a 350 factory ttop car..i was always told it was not an option for that motor.. back then the hot setup eas the Formula 350 .. most of the guys that had them by me complained they couldnt get the ttops.. i know they could be sent out but personally never seen it... and i bought my cars new back then... both were stolen unfotunitely... the New Jersey blues
That's a bummer, sorry to hear about losing the cars. Nothing worse than a thief. I have read a few places that you could in fact get them in 91/92 on a GTA specifically. Not sure you can on a Formula 350. Something about having to order it with the black diamond lace wheels or something. I forget what lol. There's too many details for a guy to know it all.
Kepe up the good work dude. I commented last video about how lucky your find was with thiis car and u said to just keep looking. and I finally found a fantastic deal on a 3rd gen and the guy reads my msgs and wont respond. This is the struggle >_>
@@Greenlightfilming I aint giving up. It's just frustrating, but you know the struggle all too well. lol I msged the guy again, to further prove my interest, but I wont try a 3rd time.
@@Greenlightfilming Persistence paid off...He relisted the car friday, and i got ahold of him and he finally responded. Went 3.5hrs one way to pick it up yesterday....So I did win this one lol...
Just as a little educational,I used to work for Cars and Concepts in Brighton,I worked on thr Mustang Convertible lines. Many people may not know this but C&C also made all the convertible tops for mustangs for years and years up until 1994 i think it was Ford took them back in house. We also are the company who installed ALL the Monte Carlo Bubble rear windows and their t tops..Was a great company until the union came in and by their greed shut the whole company down. This is what Organized labor gets ya,unemployment line. @SayNoToUnions lol
Those motors look exactly like a c4 corvette. If so you can use a part from a ford passenger car power window motor. The three white pucks. $5.00. Dorman 74410 Window Regulator Gear Plug, Pack of 3 ,
That's really good info! The whole kit with gaskets and lube was like $20. If a guy can do it a little cheaper with essentially the same parts there's nothing wrong with that. Thanks for the tip! I'm sure there's more parts interchange out there that would work like you suggested.
the 350 Formulas had T-tops? what is this? I swore all 350 cars didn't have T-tops because the L98's torque was too much for the structure of the car, whatever GM's reasoning was. thanks for another great video.
I have a 92 Formula 350 with factory T-tops. I think 92 was the only year they did that and all 92 f bodys had a new or stronger seam sealer if I remember correctly. It has around 175,000 miles, been autocrossed for 23 years and is still very tight(for a 3rd gen). I've had subframe connectors sitting in a box for about 10 years. They'll get installed one of these decades.
@@SoGoYoko yes sir, will do. Some fluids like Lucas Synthetic says right on it that it doesnt require a friction modifier. The last few I've done, I havent added and and had good luck. Any recommendation on fluid for the 9 bolt?
Interesting .. i am not knocking it .. but i am suprised but thats like the Fiero you coulda got any year any bodystyle with factory ttops but they said no at the dealer back then but hey i will keep that in mind as i am lightly shopping for one .. thx
They are out there. Buyer beware! I was fooled by these aftermarket ttops but in all reality they are as good as the factory stuff. They added some serious bracing above the headliner. I'm not upset overall.
She a sweet gta my t/a needs new fog light one broke the other there but and the fuse is melted to the fues box but enough of my car the 5.7 birds didn't come out with the T top because gm did not think the body would hold up with the 5.7 in there do to Torque Even though The 305 made more horsepower the through 350 made more torque one more thing I thought the gta only had black center wheels can't really remember
I have heard that about the 5.7 and t-tops as well. There were some years you could get them though. I don't think there was any additional bracing under those cars. It seems to be fairly commonly said that 350/t-top cars had some issues with their b-pillars cracking etc.
Hello from France, i have 1987 camaro with c&c t-top with vent option. if in north america it's rare, imagine in europa !! But i miss a part at driver side, and no found up to now. is not rubber, it's horizontal part just above the glass... i already asked several professionals without success. if you or a person know where i should search, thanks to tell me !
If that needs a repaint then my TA is past tense. I was quoted 10k. It would need a lot more body work than yours. Great presentation on your videos. I subscribed right away.
Thanks for the sub! I was tossed around 10k from a shop that didnt necessarily need/want the work. They were busy. I was really hoping it would come in under 5-6k.
I think that was the same with the shop I went to. These days shops are more interested in new vehicle repairs paid be insurance than out of pocket restoration. Your channel gives me hope to do it myself.
This paint shop gave me the impression that my GTA wouldn't be worth painting. After I bought the Camaro and brought it by he asked me twice if I had sold or was selling my GTA. Kind of cemented the idea that he didn't necessarily think the car wasn't worth restoring that it was more the labor cost he'd have to do for me. He'd have no labor if he did it him self and being fully documented from the original owner it is probably a good car to restore. 67k original miles.
@@orchids3332 I tried to get a local body shop to paint my 04 silverado the owner of the body shop basically told me he made more money on collision repairs than a complete paint job. Hell we never got to the cash part of it yet. I was kinda shocked. The truck was about 6-7 yrs old at the time.
Rather than leaving the headlights on the whole disassembly, Unplug the motor leads, and turn the lights off- they will stay up. My GTA's paint is so bad- this one looks like mine should- and you want to repaint? lol
Looking good! I couldn't tell from underneath but do you have subframe connectors on yours? I just ordered some competition engineering ones for my 87 today
@@Greenlightfilming that makes me feel better about not having mine on yet lol! Everyone makes it sound like the car will crumple if they don't have any, and I figure 34 years without them what's another 3 weeks shouldn't hurt lol. And either way the car isn't being driven right now I need to drop the t5 and figure out the vibration issues I'm having I'm suspecting flywheel or clutch or pilot bushing
This is pretty unreal watching this video because I was doing same exact thing on my Formula rig at same time,made vids but dont have a monetary channel or nothing.
Hey, you don't have to be monetized to have fun making the videos and sharing the knowledge on RUclips. Thia channel barely makes any money now and I did it for free for years. If you're in it for the money I've got bad news lol....
@@Greenlightfilming cool beans then because Im not lol... Anywho Ive been catching up on your videos,somehow last summer/ fall I got busy and lost you,missed the whole racetrack series until recently. Really like your 3rd Gen stuff and actually I am making a vid today on where I am I will share later,hopefully it will have usefull content. Thanks for everything you do in your world to help our world ha. If i get this rig going I will definately be making trip to Black River ,i mean what less then 3 hours.
Also gotta love third gens for making fog light less of a chore unlike the fourth gens front bumper has to come off just to change the bulbs like ughhhh
My 87 GTA with a factory 350 and CC1 T-tops would disagree with you. T-tops was available in 87, primarily on Canadian models and a few trickled into the U.S. market.
Yeah, I think that was annotated in the video. There weren't none in the US market, but it's not common if it's a real US car. I dont have a passionate opinion on the matter. People fight about it to this day.
@@SoGoYoko sweet, that's good info. Sounds like you know what you are talking about after reading a few of your comments here. Thanks for chiming in! The videos take a lot of time, but I enjoy doing it. Theres a little bit of a void in the third gen world, so hopefully its entertaining and informative.
Mmhmm. Someone suggested looking for a NOS lower air filter assembly (I refinished mine in the last video). I couldnt help but wonder how much one would cost. Probably not cheap if you can find one. When people really start to restore/restomod these it's going to get expensive.
For the headlight motor gears they sell them in bronze I believe they'll last forever, the plastic ones you replace will eventually wear out the teeth again
Yes, I have seen them. My gears teeth were in great shape. The little gel pucks failed like 99% of them I guess. If I strip a gear out I would consider upgrading to brass.
The teeth don't wear out, it's the 3 little plastic drums that do. That is what he replaced and the replacements are made of a more durable material than stock.
Yeah those T Tops look different. I have three third gens a 86 TA WS6, 86 IROC and 92 RS. GM over did it with T Tops. I prefer non T Top third gens. Lot of body flex in high mileage T Top cars.
They are easy to change on the car. There is a kit almost like a compression tester that fills the cylinder with air holding the valves up and you change the deals from the top. 3 hour job tops.
GM didn’t offer a 350 with t tops because of structural issues and warranty. C&C t tops are no better or worse than factory. GM didn’t allow t tops with 350 unless it was Canadian export. C&C are dead give always because of black strip in front and back which GM fisher didn’t have either.
After doing a lot of homework, it looks as though they did offer some third gens with t-tops. They aren't all that common, but like you said the export cars could get them. They also offered them in the USA in 87-89 in particular for the the Camaros. Source below. They were also available on different Firebird throughout the later years of the third generation. www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-board/302372-350-t-tops.html
I have a 92 Formula 350 with factory T-tops(American car). I think 92 was the only year they did that and all 92 f bodys had a new or stronger seam sealer if I remember correctly. It has around 175,000 miles, been autocrossed for 23 years and is still very tight(for a 3rd gen). I've had subframe connectors sitting in a box for about 10 years. They'll get installed one of these decades.
I did just prior to the oil change, and added some again after it. Theres some in the fuel, and I'm going to do the top end then some spark plugs next.
Yes it is! Even the fog lights are tricky. Everything has a very precise way of going in/out of the vehicle. I'd be much more nervous doing it on a "nice" car lol.
That's not true, and widely known that you can get 350 cars with T-Tops. Post #3 is an Administrator on TGO saying that yes, many cars had L98's with T-Tops. It varied a lot from year to year, so they aren't as common as 305/T-Top cars. I can provide a dozen more sources on this. There's no question. www.thirdgen.org/forums/history-originality/72197-rare-camaro-350-t.html
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
All of the work done here was inexpensive, but is going to keep inching the car closer to being a really great driver. Some folks pointed out the fact that "CC1" was missing from the build sheet/RPO codes and they were 100% right!
At least there is no rust on the tops.
Wow. I came here for the abandoned race track and found this gem. I bought this exact car BRAND NEW, red with gold wheels however mine was an '88. It was about $20,000 out the door. At the time I was a teenager living with mom and dad sporting a $400 a month car payment and another $100 a month insurance payment. Cut the cats off and through a "power chip" in. It was a fast car by 1988 standards. My buddy at the time had an '85 Corvette and the GTA would run with it through the 1/4 mile. Never beat him but I was there front to rear fender every time. What great memories you have invoked. Nice find! I'm going to stick around awhile.
Thats because cc1 ttops were not available in the 5.7 liter cars until 1989. Any t tops in a prior year 5.7 Liter will be after market
If cars were alive all your cars would tell you that they love you. You keep them in good condition.
Hope so! Lol. Trying to keep them running right.
Well sad sir.
Good stuff. Gotta have the headlights work just in case but cruising at dawn or dust with the park and fog lights looks killer on these cars.
The aftermarket T Tops , I pointed that out when you first bought it , you have done a great job getting that car to this shape . Beautiful GTA , I had a black 89 and a white 89 GTA's .
Sounds like you had a couple of sweet cars! Slowly but surely this car will get dialed in. It has a long way to go, but itll get where I want it with some time and effort.
@@Greenlightfilming A guy can always tell after market t tops by the weather stripping around outside of glass. I noticed it had after market t tops in your first video.
I like that you've rebuilt the headlight motors rather than replacing them. I replaced mine and I miss the original black. They are brass now.
I'm glad it went easy. The parts were cheap, and after some other folks chimed in here it could be done for way less money. It's a good DIY
My brother had it done to his 1978 trans am,back in like 1980, it was a aftermarket kit that made the glass longer across than factory,and was tinted by your aftermarket roof shops.
Was his kit a C&C kit or something else? The glass on this car is actually smaller than the GM t-tops.
Ah, the fun of pop up headlights. Those headlight motors are the same as my 88 Fiero. Good work. I really like this car. 👍
I think they are similar to C4 corvettes of the vintage as well. On the TDS website they list all of those cars under the same product number.
I just ordered a new one for my 2000 formula.
From what I have read the GTA with 350 never came with T-Tops due to structural concerns with the sheer torque causing cracks in the panels.
after 1989 they came with t tops
13:48 ahhh the infamous tune port worn valve guides, every single third gen i have owned has had this problem.
I've seen it fairly commonly too. Not ideal but it's more annoying than anything.
3rd Gen fan, and (sadly) prior owner. Great car! Good video content! earned a subscription here
Bro I used to Drive a 1999/2000 Camaro. It was Jet Black handled like a dream...... I miss that car SOOOO much. I have been looking for another one since seeing your silver one there.... I will have another one... Oh Yes. I will.....
Great video and informational on T-tops, I too run Mobil 1 5W-30 but the high mileage blend, can't go wrong with Mobil 1 oil.
I might try a high mileage blend if nothing changes with the seafoam/oil that's in it now. Hoping the seafoam cleans some crud out of the engine this oil change if anything.
I miss my 89 black on black leather GTA factory ttop car. I mean it was by far my favorite car I ever owned I’d love to get another one. I had the 350 and factory ttops so yes you could get the 350 with the tops
You should have noticed the one big difference in the ttops not being factory. Factory you have to unlock them while sitting on the car, C&C you have to unlock while standing outside the car with the door open. My wife has C&C on her 87 iroc. Little metal tag in center console from the dealership it was done at.
I feel foolish, but I didnt take the t-tops off before buying it. That's one thing I actually completely forgot to do (I know, the t-bar can rust). Total airhead move. It probably made me miss that they were aftermarket entirely.
Oh well. Live and learn.
Beautiful Trans Ams
Thank you!
Hey I’m from Minnesota too, I own 3rd gen Firebirds and Camaros but I like the Firebirds better 👍
I had the notch back turbo version of this car I really miss it bought it new when I was in grade 12 wish I still had it but kept on getting stolen
I have a 1987 GTA with a 350 motor that came with the T top.
I have the same valve stem seal issue, I've started using Valvoline high mileage oil that is available in either semi synthetic or full synthetic. It has agents that cause worn seals to swell, no blue puffs ever since!
I'll keep that in mind! I stuck with an oil I trust for now. Going to see what happens. A high mileage oil might be better.
The C&C tops are great, but given it's a T-top car I would recommend installing sub-frame connectors. I put on Alston Racing, only 20lbs and they do a fine job stiffening things up. Chassis flex is the achilles heel of all 3rd gens.
I would be inclined to agree with you on adding SFC's to any of these cars. I dont personally think it would hurt the value at all. Generally, I use UMI parts but I'll take a look at the Chris Alston parts you mentioned.
Headlight motors are notorious. I just did them in my 88 350. I'll probably buy the repair kit and repair the original ones and keep them as a spare.
You got that right. If you replace the gel pucks like I did they should be ok for a long time
@@Greenlightfilming hey can I ask for some advice? My car was running like garbage, chased around codes forever, ended up replacing the ECM. Car runs great now but trans only has forward 2nd gear. No CEL, reverse works fine. I believe it's a 700R4 (4L60E came out a few years later, I believe). No trans problems before the running issue. Are there any sensors/relays that you know of that I should check that would put trans into limp mode? Car only has 26K original miles on it.
These T Tops are better than factory. There is more metal and the windscreen frame is much thicker, so less bodyflex. Have owned both and you can feel the difference. C&C also converted some of the cars used in Knight Rider that started life as hardtop.
Interesting comment here. I've read many many people saying similar about them being superior to the factory t-tops, and stronger. I have owned both but not at the same time. Wish I could drive one with each type right next to each other.
@@Greenlightfilming I have a black 88 5.7 GTA, still has the sticker from C&C from 88 stating the exact date work was done. They used to put the sticker on the underside of the tailgate.
I checked under the hatch of my car and there was nothing. Theres something missing on the drivers door jamb. The other factory stickers are there, so I presume it's the C&C tag missing.
The valve covers are how you know. All the newer roller cam engines use the center bolt valve covers and the flat taper cams still had the old style valve covers with the bolts around the edges.
You know, I heard tha that '87 was sort of a crossover year for flat tappet and roller cams having a center bolt head on them. Is there any truth to that? At first glance, I would have told you it's a roller cam. The internet can help, AND muddy the waters lol.
Haven't read the comments and only a few minutes in but it's C&C ttops.
All the seals, as you may know by now, can be purchased through Sunroof Dr. I have them too.
Nice car.
Thanks for the tip! I have seen the sunroof doctor link quite a few times online. Seems to be one of only a place or two that has stuff to fix these up.
@@Greenlightfilming also, no one reproduces the black plastic caps on the a and b pillars where they lock in so be careful with them, they break very easily!
Good to see the 3rd gen getting more love! I didn't even know there were other versions of ttops
Theres a couple of versions of them out there. Check out the "lift back" t-tops. They are pretty rare. They lift out like traditional tops, but the rear also lifts up like a sunroof. Super cool.
Oh that's right! I did see a guy a couple years ago had those on his 92 camaro in a fbody group
Probably worth as much as a 2x4 these days. Sheesh lol. They are cool parts, almost never see them.
OMG the winky eyes! Had same prob with my 84... Of course GM never fixed it by 87... :P
T tops did come come In 87 on the 5.7 in canada
Nice to see you film the headlight motor repair on the Drivers Side instead of the passenger side. It seems like every video on RUclips of the repair is always on the passenger side. I’m about to tackle this repair myself and wondered just how hard and how much force you needed to get that gear to slip past the worm drive shaft when you removed it?
The driver's side is 10x harder to rebuild because it's assembled in a slightly different way than the passenger's side. It denoted that in the instructions, so I did the passenger's side first to get my feet wet. Overall this should only take someone a couple of hours if you are focused.
I just worked the gear off with my hands and very basic tools. You certainly don't need to use much force.
Check the cubby in the trunk. Mine has the conversion sticker in there. Mine is an 88 built in late 87 and the tops were installed in 95.
Also, if you have ratchet wrenches you can get the motor out without remobing the entire headlight assembly
I wish I would have thought of doing that. Live and learn I suppose! Thanks for the tip on checking the cubby in the trunk. So far I havent found the tag anywhere on the car. There appears to be something missing on my drivers door jamb. Might be where it was.
Make sure it has a rigid air dam under the radiator core support or it will overheat at speeds above 57mph.
Put a wonder bar on it also. That locks the frame horns. If you are a fabricator. Put the pitman arm nut from a dodge or jeep pitman shaft bearing bracket and bend a rod to the bearing that bolts to the idler arm bolts. Be totally amazed at how much better it steers.
I had an 85 TPI ttops 305 and an 87 stick car.same set up i never seen a 350 factory ttop car..i was always told it was not an option for that motor.. back then the hot setup eas the Formula 350 .. most of the guys that had them by me complained they couldnt get the ttops.. i know they could be sent out but personally never seen it... and i bought my cars new back then... both were stolen unfotunitely... the New Jersey blues
That's a bummer, sorry to hear about losing the cars. Nothing worse than a thief. I have read a few places that you could in fact get them in 91/92 on a GTA specifically. Not sure you can on a Formula 350. Something about having to order it with the black diamond lace wheels or something. I forget what lol. There's too many details for a guy to know it all.
The rear t top seals are different, I saw a white gta just like yours with those t tops. Great video.
Thanks, appreciate it! Should be a lot easier to pick C&C tops out now. I'll be able to now that I know about them.
Heyy sunroof doc is super close to me!!! I might have to go to them for my leaky t tops
Outstanding work !!
Thanks bud, appreciate it!
Kepe up the good work dude. I commented last video about how lucky your find was with thiis car and u said to just keep looking. and I finally found a fantastic deal on a 3rd gen and the guy reads my msgs and wont respond. This is the struggle >_>
You cant win them all. Something will work out. Wont find "the one" if you throw in the towel.
@@Greenlightfilming I aint giving up. It's just frustrating, but you know the struggle all too well. lol I msged the guy again, to further prove my interest, but I wont try a 3rd time.
@@Greenlightfilming Persistence paid off...He relisted the car friday, and i got ahold of him and he finally responded. Went 3.5hrs one way to pick it up yesterday....So I did win this one lol...
Just as a little educational,I used to work for Cars and Concepts in Brighton,I worked on thr Mustang Convertible lines. Many people may not know this but C&C also made all the convertible tops for mustangs for years and years up until 1994 i think it was Ford took them back in house. We also are the company who installed ALL the Monte Carlo Bubble rear windows and their t tops..Was a great company until the union came in and by their greed shut the whole company down. This is what Organized labor gets ya,unemployment line. @SayNoToUnions lol
Nice video...Love the editing...After market T-tops not so much...
I hear you. They aren't for everyone, but they do work fine.
Those motors look exactly like a c4 corvette. If so you can use a part from a ford passenger car power window motor. The three white pucks. $5.00. Dorman 74410 Window Regulator Gear Plug, Pack of 3 ,
That's really good info! The whole kit with gaskets and lube was like $20. If a guy can do it a little cheaper with essentially the same parts there's nothing wrong with that. Thanks for the tip! I'm sure there's more parts interchange out there that would work like you suggested.
the 350 Formulas had T-tops? what is this? I swore all 350 cars didn't have T-tops because the L98's torque was too much for the structure of the car, whatever GM's reasoning was. thanks for another great video.
I have a 92 Formula 350 with factory T-tops. I think 92 was the only year they did that and all 92 f bodys had a new or stronger seam sealer if I remember correctly. It has around 175,000 miles, been autocrossed for 23 years and is still very tight(for a 3rd gen). I've had subframe connectors sitting in a box for about 10 years. They'll get installed one of these decades.
Great work don't forget the diff fluid is it a 10 or a nine bolt
This has a 9 bolt rear end. I'm working my way to that, havent forgotten about it.
@@Greenlightfilming thank you for video gives me motivation to go do something with my Iroc 👍
The hardest part is starting. I'm as guilty of that as anyone. Going to get some stuff done on the Iroc this week.
@@SoGoYoko yes sir, will do. Some fluids like Lucas Synthetic says right on it that it doesnt require a friction modifier. The last few I've done, I havent added and and had good luck. Any recommendation on fluid for the 9 bolt?
Kendall makes the additive in a small bottle. You can put it in then your fluid.
Interesting .. i am not knocking it .. but i am suprised but thats like the Fiero you coulda got any year any bodystyle with factory ttops but they said no at the dealer back then but hey i will keep that in mind as i am lightly shopping for one .. thx
They are out there. Buyer beware! I was fooled by these aftermarket ttops but in all reality they are as good as the factory stuff. They added some serious bracing above the headliner. I'm not upset overall.
She a sweet gta my t/a needs new fog light one broke the other there but and the fuse is melted to the fues box but enough of my car the 5.7 birds didn't come out with the T top because gm did not think the body would hold up with the 5.7 in there do to Torque Even though The 305 made more horsepower the through 350 made more torque one more thing I thought the gta only had black center wheels can't really remember
I have heard that about the 5.7 and t-tops as well. There were some years you could get them though. I don't think there was any additional bracing under those cars. It seems to be fairly commonly said that 350/t-top cars had some issues with their b-pillars cracking etc.
Hello from France, i have 1987 camaro with c&c t-top with vent option. if in north america it's rare, imagine in europa !! But i miss a part at driver side, and no found up to now. is not rubber, it's horizontal part just above the glass... i already asked several professionals without success. if you or a person know where i should search, thanks to tell me !
Always enjoy your videos 🤟
Thanks Chris, appreciate it! Hoping to upload more in the next week.
You should buff it to make it look better while you wait for paint
I may end up doing that. A little testing spot on the drivers side rendered surprising results. Might need to learn how to wet sand here
@@Greenlightfilming yea thatd be good practice worst case you repaint it which it woulda needed anyway
Car is surely shaping up. What cleaner are you using for the transmission/underside of the car?
Just some brake cleaner and a brush
If that needs a repaint then my TA is past tense. I was quoted 10k. It would need a lot more body work than yours. Great presentation on your videos. I subscribed right away.
Thanks for the sub! I was tossed around 10k from a shop that didnt necessarily need/want the work. They were busy.
I was really hoping it would come in under 5-6k.
I think that was the same with the shop I went to. These days shops are more interested in new vehicle repairs paid be insurance than out of pocket restoration. Your channel gives me hope to do it myself.
Yeah they can make allot more in repairs. Hardly any body shop will paint a whole car anymore.
This paint shop gave me the impression that my GTA wouldn't be worth painting. After I bought the Camaro and brought it by he asked me twice if I had sold or was selling my GTA. Kind of cemented the idea that he didn't necessarily think the car wasn't worth restoring that it was more the labor cost he'd have to do for me. He'd have no labor if he did it him self and being fully documented from the original owner it is probably a good car to restore. 67k original miles.
@@orchids3332 I tried to get a local body shop to paint my 04 silverado the owner of the body shop basically told me he made more money on collision repairs than a complete paint job. Hell we never got to the cash part of it yet. I was kinda shocked. The truck was about 6-7 yrs old at the time.
Great work bro 👍🏻😎
Thanks, appreciate it!
Rather than leaving the headlights on the whole disassembly, Unplug the motor leads, and turn the lights off- they will stay up. My GTA's paint is so bad- this one looks like mine should- and you want to repaint? lol
I also went with 5/16" bolts to replace the pucks.
why not zddp? ...... what is the adverse relationship between roller and zddp ..
Looks good
Getting better. Long ways to go!
Looking good! I couldn't tell from underneath but do you have subframe connectors on yours? I just ordered some competition engineering ones for my 87 today
Negative. No SFC's on this car! I can see adding some to this one.
@@Greenlightfilming that makes me feel better about not having mine on yet lol! Everyone makes it sound like the car will crumple if they don't have any, and I figure 34 years without them what's another 3 weeks shouldn't hurt lol. And either way the car isn't being driven right now I need to drop the t5 and figure out the vibration issues I'm having I'm suspecting flywheel or clutch or pilot bushing
Where did you get the Pontiac Racing Banner?
Nice 👍 👍
Thank you for checking it out 👍👍
Too bad they didn't leave it a hard top. If there was one thing I could trade on my GTA it would be just that.
This is pretty unreal watching this video because I was doing same exact thing on my Formula rig at same time,made vids but dont have a monetary channel or nothing.
Hey, you don't have to be monetized to have fun making the videos and sharing the knowledge on RUclips. Thia channel barely makes any money now and I did it for free for years. If you're in it for the money I've got bad news lol....
@@Greenlightfilming cool beans then because Im not lol... Anywho Ive been catching up on your videos,somehow last summer/ fall I got busy and lost you,missed the whole racetrack series until recently. Really like your 3rd Gen stuff and actually I am making a vid today on where I am I will share later,hopefully it will have usefull content. Thanks for everything you do in your world to help our world ha. If i get this rig going I will definately be making trip to Black River ,i mean what less then 3 hours.
Another great F-Body movie :)
Thanks bud, appreciate it!
Can you do a video on fourth gen headlight motors mine just keeps going once I put it down and makes a loud humming sound
If mine start acting up I will for sure. every once in awhile my passengers side doesn't pop up. It seems to work 95% of the time though.
17in wheels
The 17" wheels from Hawks would be perfect on this car
Also gotta love third gens for making fog light less of a chore unlike the fourth gens front bumper has to come off just to change the bulbs like ughhhh
Yeah it does make you wonder how the engineers got the green light to do some things haha. Simple tasks can be a real PITA.
I can reach my 4th gens without taking them out.
My 87 GTA with a factory 350 and CC1 T-tops would disagree with you. T-tops was available in 87, primarily on Canadian models and a few trickled into the U.S. market.
Yeah, I think that was annotated in the video. There weren't none in the US market, but it's not common if it's a real US car. I dont have a passionate opinion on the matter. People fight about it to this day.
@@SoGoYoko sweet, that's good info. Sounds like you know what you are talking about after reading a few of your comments here. Thanks for chiming in!
The videos take a lot of time, but I enjoy doing it. Theres a little bit of a void in the third gen world, so hopefully its entertaining and informative.
Mmhmm. Someone suggested looking for a NOS lower air filter assembly (I refinished mine in the last video). I couldnt help but wonder how much one would cost. Probably not cheap if you can find one.
When people really start to restore/restomod these it's going to get expensive.
@@SoGoYoko the wheels kinda bite because of the two different offsets. Other than that I always loved the look of them.
For the headlight motor gears they sell them in bronze I believe they'll last forever, the plastic ones you replace will eventually wear out the teeth again
Yes, I have seen them. My gears teeth were in great shape. The little gel pucks failed like 99% of them I guess. If I strip a gear out I would consider upgrading to brass.
I've seen people put in steel ball bearings but I don't see what keeps the housing from cracking.
The teeth don't wear out, it's the 3 little plastic drums that do. That is what he replaced and the replacements are made of a more durable material than stock.
Are you going to plastic weld the tag holes in the front bumper before you paint it?
Yes, they will be fixed for sure before any paint is done.
Yeah those T Tops look different. I have three third gens a 86 TA WS6, 86 IROC and 92 RS. GM over did it with T Tops. I prefer non T Top third gens. Lot of body flex in high mileage T Top cars.
I agree with you 100%. I'd personally pick a hard too car over a t-top car. Cool lineup you have!
same problem at the first start, white smoke of valves seals, not easy to change ......
That's a bummer. It seems like a fairly involved job. Might end up doing it on this car though. The smoke at startup is pretty shameful lol
They are easy to change on the car. There is a kit almost like a compression tester that fills the cylinder with air holding the valves up and you change the deals from the top. 3 hour job tops.
It's an 87 with a 5.7 350 AND T-Tops??? That's a big hint as to something not being factory. *coughroofcough*
What kind of transmission does your car have ?
Factory 700r4
Sir where would u get the headlight motors and etc, thank u
Link is in the description. Top Down Solutions.
Yes i realized it after i sent the message, sorry bro
Where did you buy your Fog light housings from?
They are from Autozone. Think they were "Tyco" brand. Nice quality.
Do you know if this works on 1995 Trans am?
I'm not 100% sure. Havent done this job on any other fbody before.
GM didn’t offer a 350 with t tops because of structural issues and warranty. C&C t tops are no better or worse than factory. GM didn’t allow t tops with 350 unless it was Canadian export. C&C are dead give always because of black strip in front and back which GM fisher didn’t have either.
After doing a lot of homework, it looks as though they did offer some third gens with t-tops. They aren't all that common, but like you said the export cars could get them. They also offered them in the USA in 87-89 in particular for the the Camaros. Source below.
They were also available on different Firebird throughout the later years of the third generation.
www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-board/302372-350-t-tops.html
I have a 92 Formula 350 with factory T-tops(American car). I think 92 was the only year they did that and all 92 f bodys had a new or stronger seam sealer if I remember correctly. It has around 175,000 miles, been autocrossed for 23 years and is still very tight(for a 3rd gen). I've had subframe connectors sitting in a box for about 10 years. They'll get installed one of these decades.
Do the T tops leak like the factory ones do??
I've read that for the most part, people seem to think they are better at managing water. So far so good with mine.
Do it yourself it's your taking apart the whole car PAINT it yourself.
Have you found what the engine tick is?
Negative. It does appear to be getting quieter though.
@@Greenlightfilming have you done the sea foam yet ?
I did just prior to the oil change, and added some again after it. Theres some in the fuel, and I'm going to do the top end then some spark plugs next.
My 91 vette has a tick and we belive that it is the lifters, so a oil change might help.
Not sure what this video is? Fixing lights and changing oil still makes the car stock.
Its about the two giant holes cut in the roof. That's not stock by most standards.
It's hard to change lights on these cars without scratching the paint on the front, just an irritating design.
Yes it is! Even the fog lights are tricky. Everything has a very precise way of going in/out of the vehicle. I'd be much more nervous doing it on a "nice" car lol.
It looks good but not factory ... i wouldnt say the stronger... Exactly no 350 cars had them
That's not true, and widely known that you can get 350 cars with T-Tops. Post #3 is an Administrator on TGO saying that yes, many cars had L98's with T-Tops. It varied a lot from year to year, so they aren't as common as 305/T-Top cars.
I can provide a dozen more sources on this. There's no question.
www.thirdgen.org/forums/history-originality/72197-rare-camaro-350-t.html
You couldn't get a manual gear box behind the 5.7. Only firehawks had 6sp. In them with the 5.7.
@@timothythomas1737 this was in reference to factory TTops vs aftermarket not weather or not a stick came with the 5.7
@@DWRivers03 yeah I get that but you definitely didn't get a stick! pretty sure t- tops could be had.
The hood isnt stock
What makes you think that?
Don't paint wrap it!
Oh boy. You might be onto something here Freddy. I'll do some thinking on that.
i wish you didnt get TYC housings... TYC is a really cheap, crappy brand!
they wont last.
They are a lot better than smashed parts.