Door Courtesy Dome Light Switch not working
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Updated 2022/08/15 Show how to fix/repair a door courtesy light/dome switch instead of replacing it. Take the switch apart, clean the parts, lubricate the parts, put it back together. This may not be the same switch that's in your car, but you can use the same idea for most switches.
Be sure to check for a good ground connection where the switch and/or bolt goes into the body of the vehicle. If it's rusty, the light will be dim, flicker, or won't work. Clean the rust and put a little grease or silicone paste on the area to prevent future rust.
You can get a small pack of dielectric grease (bulb grease) at the auto parts stores. Or if you do a lot of repairs, get a tube for a few more dollars. Note: The lids suck on most products. You can use a wire nut to replace the lid when it strips or cracks.
You may be able to glue the switch pieces together, but the glue may get into the switch mechanism.
If you plan on using LED lights, many cars only use the door switch as a signal to the computer. The computer controls the dome/courtesy light. Most cars like this dim the light by providing a pulse to the light that doesn't work well with LEDs.
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I had already placed in my cart an online order for three of these switches thinking it was what I had to do to fix the problem. While double checking google to make sure what I ordered was indeed the correct parts for my vehicle (fj80 landcruiser) I came across your video. It was exactly the same as my switches. Today I tried it and in less than an hour I had fixed all three that were troublesome. I didn't even have to remove them from the connecting wire (which in itself would have been a major pain since even behind the paneling the rear ones weren't accessible to the connection. Anyway your method worked like a charm. It made me really happy when it fixed the problem just as you described in your video. Much thanks my friend!!!!
My car’s door sensor was starting to go bad intermittently. Most videos i found simply showed how to replace these things, which i think is quite wasteful. Thanks for showing such a detailed video!
I repaired mine without taking the switch apart, all you need to do is unbolt the switch, then get a thin emery board/nail file, or a thin folded over piece of fine sand paper, cut it about 1/8 of an inch wide. slip it between the button contact and the housing contact on the top and bottom. push the sand paper/emery board in and out a couple of times and this will work. after I did this little sanding, I sprayed some contact cleaner thru the top of the switch with the button pushed in to clear out the dust. there is a hole in the bottom of the back of the plastic that the junk will run out from. this method doesn't require you to remove the center trim panel or rear seat of the vehicle to access the wire connector. you would be surprised at how much trim panel retaining clips cost to replace. I had the correct tool to remove them panels, but on a 25 year old car, they are very brittle. good luck with whatever you choose to do.
Hi Johnny,
I will have to try that the next time I need to work on one. Thanks
This is what I did, too. Use a razor just like the one shown here, inserting blade on both sides and working the switch a bunch. Then I used compressed air, holding the can upside down, for good measure. Seeing the insides in the video helped me understand how to do that. And I didn’t even need to take it off the car.
you're the man! tried this on my FJ Cruiser and success. Saved me 20 dollars.
I love the way you roll! I am a frugal person too, and I love your attitude about saving money and learning/doing something new and challenging. I have a 2006 Solara that has an audio problem, and the recommendation is to replace this switch. I'm going to try repairing it first.
After watching your video I fixed the switch in my 2000 4Runner. Thank you so much for your help.
This is just what i was looking for. My 97 Hilux surf import has 3 switches (exactly the same as the 4runner) gone and now thanks to this chap i can repair them. Great info and video. Could save my best part of £40. Thank you so much.
Thanks to this video I fixed 3 switches on my 1992 camry that were working intermittently. Saved me some money.
Thanks again.
I've watched many repair videos and tutorials on RUclips and I really liked this one. You have a good technical side and patience and it really shows through. Very good teaching space you created taking the viewer step by step. Apart from learning about these door switches, I learnt some more about presentation, which is everything in teaching. Thank you for this.
Thanks for the nice words!
This is really helpful and saves me a lot of money from having to take it to a mechanic! Thank you for taking the time to make this!
3:35 am.
Sir Excellent Teaching. You broke it down. Using what you had on hand. I’m gonna try this on my 2000 Honda Accord. ( Same Problem).
Thanx,
TD
This is what youtube is for. Thanks mate, my all four door switches work like new.
Boy, If I would have searched for 1997 4Runner door switch repair I probably wouldn't got here, good fix.
Thanks, man! I didn't know how to take apart the switch because of those plastic dots. Thanks for this!!!
One of my switches went bad again. I must say if it wasn't for you video id actually buy a new one. However I watched over your video and it's back up and running. THANKS AGAIN for your video
Thanks for the good instructional video, I will give this a try tonight and see how it goes but I am going to probably order the replacement part anyway since this door switch also affects the headlamps turning off and a 17 dollar part is better than a dead battery. Good job. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video !!! I know it was a pain in the ars because everything is so small..appreciate the door switch education..really do
Awesome video! I was going to have to wait a few days for the new switch but I spent 45 minutes cleaning the switch myself just as you showed us. Thanks. I used a dremel to clean the contacts. Worked great!
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, Thank You, You have helped me in an AWESOME way!! May God Bless you and give to you as you have given to others!!!
Great video! My wife still drives our '95 Avalon and doesn't want anything else. I noticed the courtesy lights on both front doors had gone out, along with the ignition switch light that is activated when the driver door is open. (The dome light has been out a long time due to a problem with the fixture.) At first I suspected a fuse, but it checks out fine. I'm pretty sure both the door jamb switches have corroded, first one and then the other. I'm going to try your fix as soon as the weather warms up a little. Thanks for the tips.
Your video inspired me to attempt your method on my wife's '09 CRV. I did it! Saved myself at least $5 bucks and didn't have to buy another piece-o-crap Chinese junk park. Between you and my friend at SouthMainAuto, Eric O. I may actually do some serious wrenching! I didn't have to drill out any plastic. The tiny clips released the actual switch, and then the tiny locking clips that held in the spring loaded plunger, well they were tricky but I finally popped out the plunger (?) and found the contacts! They were very tiny and flimsy. I gentle bent them "up" so they could make better contact. I sanded with some 800 grit emory cloth and put it all back together. I'm liking and subscribing.
Again, thanks so much.
Hey buddy. I have a 92 & 94 Camrys. One is from Florida 94..the other life long Midwest car..between both of them the only switch that works consistently is the drivers door on the 92..all the others work but you have to play with the button ..lol to get them to work...thanks for the video..✌️
Helped me fix mine on a 98 Toyota Hilux. Exactly the same switch. Cheers mate.
What country are you in? Bet you can tell from my voice, I'm in the southern US. ;-)
@@fixpro256 I’m from a country where we call our mates cunt and cunts mate.
This is the greatest video but I have seen yet I have power but the switch just does not thank you so much
it's good idea. I repair my 96 corolla all door jamb switches. Thank you
thanks for your video I have a 97 AE92 Corolla and it had that very same switch and i even bought the universal door switch which didnt fit well but due to your time and video I was able to repair and put back the original switches
thanks again to you. all four work like brand new still
never did but im sure its not worth the repair video u gave
my very trusted shop quoted me $460 to replace both of these switches on the rear doors of my Prius. I'm finding a new shop.
You're finding a new shop? Why not fix it yourself. You just watched this a easy fix video
@@ghost-4230 for this, I am buying a replacement switch and replacing it myself. The courtesy switch in my Prius is a little bit different than the switch in the video (2007), and I could not take it apart in order to clean/renew it. I am seeking a new shop, in general, because my current shop can't be trusted after this case. Lord knows how many other times they took advantage of me.
Thanks, My Friend. I'm grateful!
Looks totally worth it to save $17.00.
Like most things, the first one is a learning curve. But if you have 4 of them, it's worth learning how to repair them. Also, if you decide to buy one, look at the reviews and try to buy the toyota brand (OEM) version. The other's are usually el cheapo and not worth fooling with.
I bought all 4 of these for my 91 LS400 from the dealer (online). Don't remember how much I paid, but the bad switches were making my factory alarm go off at random. Also, my car has an automatic headlights off feature that turns the lights off if I turn off the car and remove the key from the ignition. I kept the old switches "in case". Nice video on how to save a few bucks.
Driving my Toyota MR2 2004 last night (in heavy fog if that makes a difference) the door open indicator started flashing at random times, also the dip beam headlights would come on when the passenger side door was open. Hoped it would go away but was still flashing this morning when I drove it. I guessed the door sensor was faulty so did some googling and found this video!
The sensor on the MR2 MK3 is slightly different to the one in the video. It does look like it could come apart but I didn’t want to force it so I just sprayed electrical contact cleaner all over. Seems to have fixed it and saved myself some cash!
The contact cleaner is great to clean the switch but also removes all lubricants. Try to get a good lubricant into that switch or it may corrode quickly and fail again. Strange that the "door open" indicator came on with all the doors shut. Usually, the "door open" indicator comes on when the wire going to the door switch is grounded. That is how the circuit is completed. Also, it is strange for the dim beam on the headlights to come on when a door is open. I would suspect a possible short or a bad ground connection. A bad ground connection can cause current to flow backwards thru other circuits. If you can find a list of ground connections for your car, you can take them loose, sand the paint off under the connector, cover it with grease or dielectric grease, then put them back together. There will be several ground points on the car but start with the ones that are more likely the problem (one near the passenger side kick panel, or one near the headlights) If you have had work done to the car recently, the mechanic may have forgot to tighten all the bolts that provide the path to ground. These are all just guesses. I have never worked on an MR2. Good luck. Please let us know if you figure it out. Thanks
thanks for the video....helped me understand how the door switch works n its maintenance...
Wow, good job.
So appreciate for your video. I didn't think that is simple.
It Works!!!!!! Took me about 5 minutes to do it. Thanks
$17!? I had the same problem, and resorted to some home-brewed magic myself. Jerked the switch out of an old refridgerator door
This was helpful so I thought I'd like, subscribe, and comment.
Got satisfaction repairing them .
So it does use the mounting bolt as ground -- Thank you! (I noticed only one wire and figured.)
Nice. But a cotton swab wet with muriatic acid could be a better way to clean the copper contact points.
Good video, however, you may have been better served by safety wiring the ground plate against the plastic housing by looping the wire through both holes bringing them together then twisting them as if it were the shape of licorice. This technique is commonly used in aircraft maintenance.
Could have saved a whole lot of time without removing the switch from the car, just peel up the rubber cover from the bottom (where it covers the bolt) far enough to expose the base of white plastic switch stem then spray into the tiny crevice at the base of the switch stem thoroughly with DeOxit Contact Cleaner while depress and release hard (popping) the switch multiple times to clean the contact surfaces however ... you may have to repeat this step when oxidation happens again in few years but filing or sanding away the metal that originally had oxidation protection coating means the same problem may occur sooner when moisture sets in. Buying new is other option but that would incur cost of labor and part. It took me less than 3 min with my approach to fix my 1997 Toyota Avalon courtesy light switch malfunction and a can of DeOxit is only $14.00 on Amazon and it will be good for your other cars' switches and circuit contacts around the house!
Thanks! I just fixed 3 of mine.
wow! I love RUclips, about to do this to 07 FJ Cruiser.
I hope this method will work for my 1994 Toyota Camry. Should I DISCONNECT the battery first? I'm a beginner when it come to working on cars.
+howell webb Most car courtesy light switches work by grounding the negative side of the circuit. So if you accidentally short the wire to ground it will just turn on the light. But, you never know when you might be working on a car with a different design. Since you are a beginner, it is probably a good idea to disconnect the battery. I took a look at some pictures of the part for your car. It should be a very similar switch to the one in my video.
+fixpro256 Thanks for your help...it worked like a charm.
I have a Toyota Camry 94 too!! Mine is V6 tho :P
thanks buddy.
electrical cleaner and vasoline seem to have done the trick on 07 FJ Cruiser
+mark b (fixpro256) Apparently the FJ has some issues with water dripping from the roof into the door jamb when the door is opened. This causes the sensor to corrode prematurely, some people have claimed as early as 24K. Mine is problematic at about 80K.
The door switch not last long enough. All has same issue due to contact corrosion after years. And it located in the shock area when you close door with bang. Seems every car maker forget to list it as service parts like brake shoes. It got me in trouble of battery drain out if that failed. It is national epidemic of such failure for almost every car of older than 10 years.
I.m having trouble with the Camry ones all the time.I think is not contracting far enough so that the central locking cant engage.Might try this tho.Hard to pin down which one(s) are not working properly.Thanks.
Not sure why you didn't use some hot glue or small machine screws and nuts to assemble the switch back together instead of that wire.
Screws would probably stick out and get in the way. I haven't had much luck with hot glue holding things like this. But it wouldn't hurt to try. There are some adhesives that would hold ok. Just have to wait for them to cure, and make sure they don't get into the mechanism. Might be hard to get it back apart if needed.
respect, love the accent
Thanks a lot
FixPro---I pulled out the switch of my 1996 Toyota Camry as far as I could after removing the 10mm bolt. It's connection was not visible for me to disconnect it. How can I disconnect something that I am unable to reach?
I am not familiar with that car. There may be a panel on the inside of the car just in front of the hinge area. If you pull that panel off, there might be an access hole where you can see the connector.
I’m Dubai it costs barely 2.50 dollars for 2 of em lol Toyota genuine parts
Thanks to Joebidens america, the DS-868 switch is 30bucks now! So ya, on a 20yr old beater, ya clean and fix them.
My car door is misaligned most likely from a lockout from previous owner. The door ajar light is always on because the car door is unable to push in the door jamb button enough for the light to go off. What can I put inside my door jamb so it pushes in on the button?
You could tape or glue something to the door where it hits the button. I use a lot of PVC wood for stuff like this. It is available at some hardware stores. Easy to work with and won't split or rot. But only sold in 8 or 10 foot sticks.
Nice, very helpful... :-)
Where can I find this on the back door of the prado?
Sorry, I won't be able to help you with that. I have never worked on a Prado.
This courtesy switch is out of a 97 Toyota 4Runner. Cost about $17 to buy a new one.
My cars door courtesy switch only works sometimes. If I push it in with my finger it goes off. I believe it started acting up after the door was slammed hard. I thought maybe it was the rubber knob in the door but I wonder if it could be the spring, what say you?
Usually, it's just corrosion or crud on the contacts. Sometimes you can spray contact cleaner in it and get it to work a little longer. But, eventually it'll probably give you trouble again. At some point, you'll probably have to either replace it or fix it. Worse part is the others usually start to go out shortly after the first one. If you're getting ready to order a replacement, you might as well try to fix it (if you have the time and ability). Then you will know how to fix the others with they start to act up. Can also get one out of a salvage yard to practice on.
fixpro256 I did a quick fix and just stuck one of those sticky floor protectors for chair legs. I’m going to take it out when I have a chance. Just have to find the right one for a 2014 Toyota Camry which may not be easy to find
Not sure which problem you’re fixing for your lights .. I have an issue where my courtesy door LED’s won’t fully turn off when they should. They only dim to “seem” off but are constantly on. I’m afraid it could drain my battery after time
Depending on the make and model, some cars have 12 volts positive to the courtesy light all the time. Then they use the door switches to provide the negative ground when the door is opened. If water gets on a cut in the insulation or a connector in the ground wire, it can create a partial path to ground. That will make the light come on dim all the time. LEDs are very sensitive to that, because they require very little current to create light. On newer cars, the computer controls the courtesy light. Water on a connector can cause a slight current to flow from another circuit and make the light come on dim all the time. If you know a little about electricity and have a volt/ohm meter....Take the bulb out and test the wires at the courtesy light for voltage. Then remove the fuse for the courtesy light system and test those wires for resistance (ohms). What make and model is your car? Have you noticed that the LED goes out when it hasn't rained for several days?
fixpro256 it’s a 2002 Silverado. They aren’t dim all the time, when I open my door they are bright as they should be but when closing up the truck for the night the door lights don’t fully turn off and I didn’t wana risk it draining my battery over something unnecessary so I removed them for now. I had that issue before with my dome light so I removed that previously after coming out to a dead truck in the morning.
A 2002 chevy may be computer controlled. You will need to figure that out first. If it isn't computer controlled... if there is water causing a slight short, the lights will be bright when a door is open, but dim when the doors are closed. Once the water dries up, after it hasn't rained several days, the light will be bright when the door is open, but no longer dim when the door is closed.
LEDs only require about a third of the energy as halogen bulbs.
When you see the LEDs dimly lit like that, it's only reacting to the same amount of electricity that the original halogen bulbs were exposed to but could not show.
So your LEDs are not draining your battery because it's just emmiting the power that was already there. Your original halogen lights could not show.
If you are upset that they do not completely turn off for cosmetic reason, I do not know how to fix that problem.
Anyways, hope that helped and good luck.
I believe a halogen bulb still has a filament. If there is a small amount of current going thru it, it might not be enough to light the bulb, but it will eventually drain the battery.
Is there any reason you can't clean the contacts with a cotton bud and white vinegar as is often done with batteries?
If the switch is in pretty good shape that'll probably work. A lot of times the arcing and corrosion makes the surface rough and pitted. Vinegar will probably at least improve the situation, but you'll probably need to wire brush or file some of the areas to get the switch to perform well over a longer period of time. Otherwise you'll have to take it apart again..
Unfortunately the switches on my car are sealed steel units and cannot be opened up. There is a good earth point on the door and it works if I press slightly on the switch plunger - Is there anything I can squirt in there to improve contact. Have tried contact cleaner without success.
+MsCelicagt4 If you disconnect the wire, can you spin the plunger? That may clean the corrosion from the contacts. Try wd40 just to see if it works. It probably won't last long. If it does work, try a light weight oil. What type of car do you have?
+fixpro256 Its an old Bmw e30 which seems particularly hard on the drivers door switches. Its great when one can actually fix these things. Thanks for reply.
+MsCelicagt4 Is that the one with the two wires going to it? Does the plunger spin?
No, the plunger does not spin and it is a single wire. It works if I touch the plunger manually when the door is open. Just checked there now and it seems to work perfectly with the rubber cover removed from the switch.
+MsCelicagt4 If you open the door slowly, does the light even flicker? If not, it may need a shim glued on the door where the plunger strikes. You could also try to swap with one of the other doors. Sucks to have any door not working, but would rather have a rear door not working than the drivers door.
How did you get the switch out? Mine won't come out far enough to let me unplug it.
Usually you can remove the panel that covers the area behind the switch. There will usually be an access hole where you can get to the connector.
yeap. that works
You can get a new one from eBay for £2-3.
you could've used sparkling water or Coca-Cola to get the corrosion off and or also then use sand paper
Just clamp it n melt plastic back where cut off
My car door was hit and I placed tape over the top of this button thing so my question is should I replace it or can it be fixed?
When you take the tape off, does the light turn on? Then when you hold the button in, does the light eventually go off? If so, the switch is working properly. Usually, when a door gets wrecked, the problem is just an adjustment. You can probably glue a piece of thin plastic on the door where the switch hits. Just tape a 1/16 inch thick piece there as a test. If that doesn't work, try 1/8 inch. If that doesn't work, try 1/4 inch. I doubt you will need anything thicker than that, unless you were hit by a train. ;-) Once you find the right thickness, glue it in place. Let me know if I have misunderstood your problem. Good luck.
fixpro256 everything you mentioned is the issue lol I just didn’t want my car to have an eyesore with the tape. Are you suggesting I remove the cover first and then put something on it and replace the cover? I’m guessing so you can see the tape I’m using?
I'm not sure we are talking about exactly the same area. I'm NOT talking about removing the switch cover. I'm talking about the area directly across from the switch, where the post part of the switch hits the door. That area is what actually presses the switch when you close the door. If the switch, or the area where it hits, has been bent due to a wreck, you have to add a little material to take up the space. You can glue a little piece of plastic there (or another material that is close to the same color as your car).
What did you use to unscrew it off the door
nevermind mine isn't the wrench type screw
For me it didn't worked, I don't know why. I'll try to clean the bolts, they have to conduct electricity to the frame I guess and they were very rusted, let's hope this works.
Do any of the door switches work? If not, you may have a different problem. You are right. The bolts do have to conduct to the frame/body. The rust can definitely interfere with the connection. If they work and then stop again, try dielectric grease. It will prevent future corrosion.
fixpro256 I know one works, because when I play with it, I see the light in the dash become brighter. So I am confident my circuit works. The one I suspect was too rusted I put some break cleaner, than 2-3 minutes later I put WD40, I am still waiting, then I'll put some petrolium grease and put it back. All that is both on the bolt and in the hole.
What make and model is this car? Not sure I understand the dash lights getting brighter. Does it not turn on the dome light?
You can use a volt meter to test from each wire to ground.
If you don't have a volt meter,...Assuming the wire is a ground wire, you could ground each one (one at a time) and see if it operates the dome light.
That would tell you if any of the wires are damaged.
My car is a Toyota Camry 1994.
I always turn the dome light to "off"(off/door/on), so I almost forgot it existed, this will be easier to look for.
The dash light I am talking about is the "opened door" warning light in the dash. When I push the rear left door button, I can see the light slightly change in power. I assume this button works.
I have a multi-meter, I haven't figured on what setting to put it and where to put the the "nodes".
Right now, if my dome light would be set to "door"(off/door/on), it would always be on even with the four doors closed.
I hope it was all the rust on the bolt that created this issue, I will go out now and put it back in and see.
I used my multi-meter to connect buttons to the frame.
It makes a sound on the rear right door and stops when I press the button (success).
But on the rear left door it seems like no electricity is coming from the wire itself.
And on the front right, there is barely something, I can here the multi-meter almost trying to beep.
Thank you very much for trying to helping me by the way!
Does anyone know why my drivers side door when I open it sometimes the door ajar disappears about 1 sec after and turns off the lights. But then other times it’s normal and the door ajar stays on when the door is open with the dome lights on?
Sounds like it has a bad connection. When the door is closed, the connection is open and the light is off. When the door is opened, the connection is closed and the light comes on. If the connection is bad, it will be intermittent when the door is open. On a simple door switch, the light might flicker. On a door switch with a timer, the light might turn off after a while because it thinks the door is closed. If you bump the switch it will probably turn back on. Try cleaning the switch. Good luck
fixpro256 Thank you
Can a switch which is stock closed/on be repaired?
Wire? How about Superglue.
Since it only needs to be held together long enough to get the bolt thru it, you could probably install it without anything holding it together. Superglue would probably hold good enough to allow you to get it installed. But, probably wouldn't hold longterm due to impact and flexing. There are some adhesives that would work, but you may not be able to get it apart again. If you use a little too much, it might get on the plunger. If I used an adhesive, I would use something like Amazing Goop. It stays a little flexible and you could probably get it apart again if you needed to.
@@fixpro256 thank you for your detailed response.
fixpro256 good points!
like
It’s better to purchase new
Waste of time. Just get a new one already unless you're married and just want to get the hell out of the house...
Theres dint in my door where this sensor is supposedly meant to close and it effects my car door telling me that the drivers door isnt closed when it actually is. Any suggestions anyone??
Its pissing me off lmao
Glue a piece of hard plastic or metal over the dent????