the 3 BEST SETTINGS to start tig welding STAINLESS
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- Опубликовано: 9 ноя 2023
- SETTINGS ARE SO IMPORTANT for tig welding, but with so many buttons and settings to use, WHICH ONES ACTUALLY MATTER?? Don't worry my friends, let's keep this simple. Let's go over the only settings I recommend focusing on when you are first learning tig welding, and lets get welding!
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Had a custom boat prop built. I was fortunate to watch the guy weld the blades to the barrel. Barrel is probably about 1/8” thick. Prop blades were about 1/2” thick at the base. The material was 17-4 ph stainless. I figured he would tack every thing up, to get some even heat into the part and then run a bunch of small beads, skip around welding here and there until it was welded out. Wrong! He jigged up one blade, got the biggest torch, cup, and tungsten I have ever seen, then he grabbed a 3/16” dia filler rod. He just arc’d up and went to town he ran one huge pass supper fast on each side, looked like he was pushing the wire down a gopher hole. Then he jigged up the next blade and did the same thing on the remaining blades. I told him “I figured you would skip around and weld multiple passes”. He smiled and said, “after 30 years of trying different ways, you might figure out what works that shouldn’t.” I ran that prop for 12 years!
I hear voices in my head now when I weld. Fill and chill! It has really helped, Thank You for all your advice/instruction! 95% of what I weld is aluminum.
I like things that work.
But a lot of the time its about finding things that actually just work for you.
Very true! I like Pulse TIG welding, which many don’t like, but it works well for me.
That chart is pretty close to what I was taught all those years ago. Fillet : amps = material thickness in thousandths of an inch. (40A per millimeter if you're metric). Butts get 80% of that and laps get 75% of that. So 100 thou material (2.5mm) would be 100A for fillet, 80A for butt, 75A for lap. It's easier to do the math than to carry around a chart.
I am replying to this video because it is the newest, so you are most likely to see the comment (so I believe, anyway).
I just watched a 2 year old video of yours on outside corners on stainless. There was good information in there, but it doesn't apply very well to what I do. I am a maintenance mechanic, and although I was all-position TIG certified 25 years ago, I have only actually run tig maybe 3 times in the last 15 years ( the VAST majority of the welding that I do is with stick for various reasons). Anyway, the times I need to pull out the TIG torch are when I have a stainless tank split. These are outside corners on 0.060"-ish 304 stainless that were invariably welded autogenously. I weld them back up and move on with my life, but I was looking for tips that might help me out, because pulse wasn't a thing when I was getting certified, and if I can get a better quality water-tight weld then I'm all about that.
When I see your little test coupon welded on a bench looking so pretty, and then I think about myself lying on my back in the water under a leaky tank that I just peeled the insulation off of (and tried to scrape off the glue residue) welding with scratch-start TIG trying to seal a split seam, it kind of seems like maybe there is a disconnect. Have you ever considered doing videos that are a bit farther away from the new-metal-fabrication variety? Or is that not the purpose of your channel?
To be clear - you have good stuff on your channel, I'm just curious if you'd be interested in branching out to repair-type welding. If that's not what you want your channel to be about then that's your choice, and I won't fault you for that. You're not here for my convenience.
Great Masterclass Justin, thank you very much!!
I weld stainless sheet metal daily, from 12ga to 24ga. I really enjoy pulse TIG welding with a finger trigger, it allows autogenous tacking with one hand at tough angles. I like to find the proper amperage (+/- 5 amps) and adjust my PPS (pulses per second) to change weld properties. Rarely, I will adjust peak and background wavelengths to change weld properties. Most of my autogenous welding is tacks, but most of my welds with filler are lay-wire at fast speeds with fixed amperage. It’s fun and the beads don’t look bad either!
Some people really hate pulse welding for some reason. If you're welding thin gauge you have to, and you want the amp really high and very short pulse time. This is to reduce overall heat input.
Thank you, Dusty. I have not been using enough.
Thanks Dusty, Paul in Florida
Really good videos my friend. Thank you for taking the time to make these!!
Thanks Dusty! Just in time, I've got to weld some stainless pipe, I've learned a ton from you and it shows in my TIG welds😎
Comme tu l'as précisé dans la vidéo ,il y a trop de paramètres à mettre en compte pour pouvoir donner un réglage pour tout un chacun.
Merci Dusty pour cette explication.
Great video thanks
Got the defiant metal black gloves and was pulling them on and the cuff ripped right off ( brand new ) will they make it right
Good morning Dusty
Dusty, love your videos! Trying to weld stainless with my Primeweld 225...not having much luck. I can do lap welding if I do not use any filler, juswt melt the stainless and I get a nice good looking shiny weld. However, if I try using stainless filler, I always get a muddy looking weld. Same settings, clean filler, work and tungsten but it still looks muddy. Any suggestions?
Clearly I am not Dusty! 2 things come to mind. thin metal compared to the filler? and or. are you pulling the filler too far out from the gas shield between dabs? These are a couple issues I had. Well, I still struggle with the second one ;)
I survived TIG stainless class these past two weeks, but I used waaaay too many CFH. Probably could have been easier.
Hey friend, your video content left a deep impression on me. Is it possible for us to collaborate on a project at some point? Let me know your thoughts and keep working hard!
And have you ever had this problem with them?
I find the chart unhelpful, especially for thin gauge steel. I think once you are past 2mm thickness, the chart becomes helpful. There's another channel where a guy who never shows his face (because he wears PPE) and talks in Japanese or Korean (I can't tell) where his tip is very helpful for thin gauge stainless.
Essentially with such thin gauge you want VERY LITTLE overall heat input. He did a demonstration where he welded based on that chart, 1mm steel at about 10 amps (not exactly out of the line according to the chart shown here). Weld looks like CRAP, burned and warped like crazy.
What he did was set the welder to 2T operation, then what he did was set the amperage to 100 amp (or maybe 80 amp at minimum) for a 1mm thick sheet. Then he held down just long enough to puddle (it takes maybe 0.5 second at most), then release the trigger and terminate the arc immediately. Then step forward half a puddle, and repeat. The weld looks beautiful.
Then there's also pulse setting. Something that thin really needs pulse, and again you want very high amp, but low pulse time, and faster travel speed. At 3 pulse per second you're going to be REALLY MOVING.
The chart starts becoming more useful as you weld thicker materials. That's when you want penetration and the amperage would go down per thickness.
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🪙🪙Thanks for the great tips Dusty.
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