I gave up using copper grease on brakes year ago. Ceratec is much better suited to the job. Well done for getting your mates car sorted though George, it looks like he had his monies worth out of those discs.
Those 16mm bolts holding the rear caliper bracet on were the tighest bolts i have ever done, had to use a jack pushing on the rachet for hours just to get them undone😂 Othereise great video
Excellent video dude im doing front and rear in the sun tommorw but you didnt mention the caliper mounting torque setting? is it possible for you to add this please?
What’s the easiest way to get them off had to give up yesterday they wouldn’t budge. Is breaker bar essential can’t get no leverage under the wheel arch though. 🫣
@@angelofdeath098 They are near impossible to get off with a ratchet and difficult with a breaker bar (access). You could try some heat on the bolt heads to soften the locite on the threads, that may help. Just last week did the disks all round on my daughters F21 and had to resort to an 18v impact with a couple of extensions, the gun was literally where the diff is.
Tip: The shiny surface on the hangers are the contact points(see no reason to put on the sides of the pad backplates, but I'll look on my old pads for wear/contact) I always put copper grease on them not had a problem yet doing that, on cars or motorbikes. The copper is coated in grease so does not corrode(no air/water gets to it). These disk bolts sometimes round off(so to help it round off. I'll spray lub in it). That made me chuckle. None of what you sprayed made it to the thread. Overall good job.
Recommend aluminium pasta instead of copper. In corrosive environment (like salty winter roads up north Europd) copper connections will give galvanic corrosion. In Norway the copper grease give severe corrosion. Also if you use coppper grease in connection with aluminium wheels.
Well done mate , i was interested in seeing whether you would encounter a problem getting the hub off seeing it was so badly neglected. I once had a problem removing a hub that I had special tool made to pull it off.
Good video . I'll be trying to do the discs in the warmer weather. I always put a bit of copper grease on the caliper pins as they can be a nightmare to undo if they haven't been greased a little
Copper grease shouldn't ever be used near brakes as it hardens over time. You should use Ceratec for brake related parts, both for the back of pads (if you decide to use anything) and sliders.
Well well well. Back to this comment today. Last time I think I had the pads changed. The garage didn't put any copper greese on the pins . .fast forward to today. Tried to do a DIY pad change. Low and behold could not get the caliper pins out . Even with dousing with wd40 and leaving to set. Why is there not much room to work around the caliper pins when your working from a jacked car ? Ended up snapping my hex tool .
Another good BMW vid George👌 Only thing i do different is stick a screwdriver in the rotor so it dont move to take out the screw holding the disc on (Lazyness😂) and use Red rubber grease for the slide pins 👍
@@bouncycastles1214 its because most in the UK are fake, especially from local motorfactors and euro car parts. Why pay premium price when your getting fakes.
U bought the trw pads, did u not fancy the trw discs ?? I bought the black painted trw discs on autodoc for a neighbours 1 series, and did the job last week, they were very nice !!
Abandoned this identical job ,for now, as i cannot release the rear wheel from the hub due to an incredible rust "weld". Banged away ,kicked away, pulled , that same wheel will not come off. Was thinking about driving the car a few metres and using the brakes to rip the wheel off but suspected this might cause damage. Also ,you never mentioned winding back the caliper piston. I hope it was a straight push back and not twist and push like some rear brakes.
Hi, thanks for the very informative video. I have done the fronts following your other video but just wanted to ask are all these steps on the rear done with the handbrake on or off? Cheers.
@GeorgeAusters perfect, thanks a lot mate. Greatly appreciated. Thought that would be the case but just wanted to make sure before I started. All the best and thanks again for the quality content.
Why do these newer cars not have vented discs on the rear? Is it an attemp to save weight or money? I get the rear brakes dont work as hard as the front but they look so flimsy.
Great video man well done!! I have a question tho does that ware sensor need changing every time changing the dick and pads? And how do you reset the sensor?
BMW also say: " Do not under any circumstances strike friction ring with a hammer or similar! If necessary, carefully tap on base of brake disc chamber with a rubber mallet"
Buy Rear Brake Discs HERE: ebay.us/zOOoyT
Buy Rear Brake Pads HERE: amzn.to/4cAK9RW
Thanks George, I've done this job myself countless times over the years but still enjoyed watching you do it!
Glad i’ve come across your channel. just purchased a 118d m sport pre LCI . your vlogs are simple to follow and you have great advice 👍🏻 keep at it
I gave up using copper grease on brakes year ago. Ceratec is much better suited to the job. Well done for getting your mates car sorted though George, it looks like he had his monies worth out of those discs.
Those 16mm bolts holding the rear caliper bracet on were the tighest bolts i have ever done, had to use a jack pushing on the rachet for hours just to get them undone😂 Othereise great video
Excellent video dude im doing front and rear in the sun tommorw but you didnt mention the caliper mounting torque setting? is it possible for you to add this please?
Clear and concise, George. Those 16mm caliper cradle bolts are always a bugger to undo because BMW put way too much loctite on them.
I've snapped 3 16mm sockets trying to do the back of my e91..
What’s the easiest way to get them off had to give up yesterday they wouldn’t budge. Is breaker bar essential can’t get no leverage under the wheel arch though. 🫣
@@angelofdeath098 They are near impossible to get off with a ratchet and difficult with a breaker bar (access). You could try some heat on the bolt heads to soften the locite on the threads, that may help. Just last week did the disks all round on my daughters F21 and had to resort to an 18v impact with a couple of extensions, the gun was literally where the diff is.
Tip: The shiny surface on the hangers are the contact points(see no reason to put on the sides of the pad backplates, but I'll look on my old pads for wear/contact) I always put copper grease on them not had a problem yet doing that, on cars or motorbikes. The copper is coated in grease so does not corrode(no air/water gets to it). These disk bolts sometimes round off(so to help it round off. I'll spray lub in it). That made me chuckle. None of what you sprayed made it to the thread. Overall good job.
Recommend aluminium pasta instead of copper. In corrosive environment (like salty winter roads up north Europd) copper connections will give galvanic corrosion. In Norway the copper grease give severe corrosion. Also if you use coppper grease in connection with aluminium wheels.
Thanks for the work George 🙌
Pleasure!
Well done mate , i was interested in seeing whether you would encounter a problem getting the hub off seeing it was so badly neglected. I once had a problem removing a hub that I had special tool made to pull it off.
Great video as always.
What camera, mic and tripod did you use in this video ?
Good video . I'll be trying to do the discs in the warmer weather.
I always put a bit of copper grease on the caliper pins as they can be a nightmare to undo if they haven't been greased a little
Copper grease shouldn't ever be used near brakes as it hardens over time. You should use Ceratec for brake related parts, both for the back of pads (if you decide to use anything) and sliders.
100% not copper grease on moving parts.
Ok I will stop using it
Well well well. Back to this comment today. Last time I think I had the pads changed. The garage didn't put any copper greese on the pins .
.fast forward to today. Tried to do a DIY pad change. Low and behold could not get the caliper pins out . Even with dousing with wd40 and leaving to set.
Why is there not much room to work around the caliper pins when your working from a jacked car ?
Ended up snapping my hex tool .
Another good BMW vid George👌
Only thing i do different is stick a screwdriver in the rotor so it dont move to take out the screw holding the disc on (Lazyness😂) and use Red rubber grease for the slide pins 👍
Yes I use red rubber grease for the slide pins usually👍🏻
How many nm should the screws be tightened with?
Love these types of videos.. 😊
Thankyou for the video i will doing my brakes when the weather improves switching to Brembo all round.
I wouldn’t recommend Brembo
@@GeorgeAusters Well i haven't purchased them yet George can you tell me why please.
Why not Brembo, i have them all round on my E92 and they're great? @GeorgeAusters
@@bouncycastles1214 its because most in the UK are fake, especially from local motorfactors and euro car parts. Why pay premium price when your getting fakes.
@piovo5222 I didn't know this and gor mine from Euro car parts. Isn't it illegal for them to sell fakes though?
U bought the trw pads, did u not fancy the trw discs ??
I bought the black painted trw discs on autodoc for a neighbours 1 series, and did the job last week, they were very nice !!
Help , thanks for the video. What is the torques spec for valider brace to wheel hub and caliper to the brace ? Thanks
Abandoned this identical job ,for now, as i cannot release the rear wheel from the hub due to an incredible rust "weld".
Banged away ,kicked away, pulled , that same wheel will not come off.
Was thinking about driving the car a few metres and using the brakes to rip the wheel off but suspected this might cause damage.
Also ,you never mentioned winding back the caliper piston.
I hope it was a straight push back and not twist and push like some rear brakes.
Hit the wheel with a rubber mallet and spray some WD40 through the bolt holes
What camera, mic and tripod did you use in this video ?
Camera: amzn.to/3V2Bth8
Mics: amzn.to/3IkpROD
Tripod: amzn.to/3uWycoO
Hi, thanks for the very informative video. I have done the fronts following your other video but just wanted to ask are all these steps on the rear done with the handbrake on or off? Cheers.
Handbrake needs to be off
@GeorgeAusters perfect, thanks a lot mate. Greatly appreciated. Thought that would be the case but just wanted to make sure before I started. All the best and thanks again for the quality content.
How did the car get an MOT last time with break discs that rusted.😮
I was thinking exactly the same thing. They’ve been like that for a very, very long time.
Because they still worked, just got an advisory for being pitted
@@GeorgeAusters surely power must have been lacking with so little pad contact?
Thank you for video 📹 As always is cool 😎 I like your hopeful video.
Thank you! 😃
Why do these newer cars not have vented discs on the rear? Is it an attemp to save weight or money? I get the rear brakes dont work as hard as the front but they look so flimsy.
It's only a 116d.. Higher models do have vented discs
Nice video as usual mate, how on earth did those discs not destroy those pads 😳 they must be brembos 😂
Haha!
Great video man well done!!
I have a question tho does that ware sensor need changing every time changing the dick and pads? And how do you reset the sensor?
New discs come slightly greased. Should give them good break cleaner spray before installing in my opinion
Not the coated ones lol
Always worth readjusting the handbrake settings when changing to new discs. Just saying...
Wow BMW say do not grease the retaining Pins : o
BMW also say:
" Do not under any circumstances strike friction ring with a hammer or similar!
If necessary, carefully tap on base of brake disc chamber with a rubber mallet"
Yeah if you’re reusing them.. doesn’t matter if you’re replacing them though
With those 'Joyroad' tyres, the last thing you want on the rear is more braking! Some people really don't deserve to own a RWD car!
It’s a 1.6 diesel mate can run budgets all year round
@@liam5786 1.5 actually, but 114HP and 270Nm is plenty enough to get you in trouble on a wet roundabout with plastic tyres at the back!
Yep should be called joyryde for a bit of fun
Dirty Alloy Wheel owner says it all