I agree with everything that you said in this video, except for the metallic brush on the motor windings you are actually scraping and enamel coating that manufacturers put on the motor windings to waterproof them and protect them right off and then when you put it under the showerhead, you’re actually going to cause those windings to start to rust
Do NOT use any kind of metal brush on your motor windings. If you scratch the clear lacquer coating on them they are toast and unfixable unless you feel like rewinding them. I wouldn’t even use a brush.
Using pieces of paper as a feeler gauge to measure magnet to stator clearance would probably be easier to identify bell runout than simply eyeballing it.
That pliers bending method, genius. Tape to remove metal shavings from magnets, genius! New motors are nice, but if i had to buy a new motor every time i flew into some concrete I'd go bankrupt.
For removing iron particles from the magnets inside motor bells, I find a tacky putty works great! The putty I have is intended for temporary placement of posters on walls. Don't land/crash in sand! Edit: of course looking to the right shows that JB did a video 4 years ago on this with a thumbnail showing what I just said....
@@TanFK well it turned out that it was a bad bearing so I called a few local bearing suppliers, picked up two at their warehouse, and I’m back up in the air again! Still a VERY easy fix and it gives me peace of mind rather than worrying about my quad eventually falling out of the sky. I’m a firm believer in preventive maintenance preventing bad things from happening. Or at least limiting the risks. Great vid and thanks for the help!
Question: Does the exposure to moisture cause any component in the motor to oxidize over time? My personal space is on the humid side and I've been wondering about my quads long term health.
@@sunsetpark_fpv just ensure the motors are immediately dried after washing either in direct sunlight, over a ducted heater or hairdryer/hot air station
From my experience with a plastic brush it's harder to get off carbon or metal shavings. But you do bring up a good point. There is a risk to damaging the enamel if you brush too hard, I should've emphasis to be gentle while using the metal brush.
Excellent video and great tips! 👍 Similar to mud... I sometimes fly at the beach and get sand in my motors. Metal particles in the sand stick to the magnets and cause the motors not to spin. I clean it using a regular toothbrush and it seems to work well. Another thing to check for is burnt or partially burn coils. Check visually if all or some of the coils are black or blackish rather than brown. If so, the enamel has melted and the coil is functionally compromised. Even if it works now, the motor could soon fail in flight leading to complete quad loss. In this case I replace the entire motor. It may be possible to do coil rewiring but I don't know how / never tried it.
Sorry that one is unexplored territory for me, But check this video out around the 7 minute mark ruclips.net/video/OCAuvENiyFo/видео.html If you could trace the ends of the three strains of copper wire of the windings you might be able to do something about it.
I have the same set of Hexdriver's. Ive had them for about a year now and the Tip's are still perfect. Do you have a link to them? I cant find where i ordered them from to re-order i set. I remember they werent too expensive at the time at least and i just figured id take a chance. I love them now. Just want a backup set. I got the full set that goes down to 0.7mm and i actually needed it to repair a dji drone. it was one of those really small size's..
Yeah a majority of comments are also echoing this I’ll defo give it a try if I get into this unfortunate situation again 😅 As for the metal brush it’s because my previous times cleaning solid stuff the plastic doesn’t effectively sweep solids so I opted for a more rigid brush. But the brushing needs to be more gentle for sure
So … I messed up. Exactly what you were worried about… I stripped my screw and now I am clueless as to how to open the bell as there is a piece of junk inside ta motor which I need to remove. Pls help
Try searching stripped screw guides. Ive seen The rubber method alot but it didnt Work for me. I normally Cut The screw with a mini hacksaw And use a - screw Driver to get it out
What analog VTS's do you use and have good luck with? Just looking for a good brand solid analog VTX for clear and not-glitchy signal with some distance between goggles? Would i see a noticeable upgrade in replacing my Eachine VR-007 older but great clear screen, no dvr or anything, one anttena, and internal VRX. I see the Eachine 800D i believe theyre called as supposed to be the best budget friendly option at $100 and it has dual antennas, patch and omni antennas, and SD Card DVR built in, but again not replaceable VRX. I have a few digital DJI drones and one 5" with an O3 Air Unit, and its obviously super clear, and never breaks up at all within reasonable distance.. But i have a lot of other drones and i dont hate Analog, plus its just to expensive to convert every drone i might want to build and fly either. Especially with a good analog camera for night flying is so much fun for going in and out of lit area's, as long as its dimly lit by something, it will be in B&W, but you'll be able to see just fine.. Where as the DJI O3 air unit system is literally unflyable at night!! So im not opposed to investing in wha they have now, which is VRX holder Module Bay for the DJI goggles, like an HDZERO analog has sort of with the HDMI-IN Ports. It just lets you use that A/V feed and plug it into your DJI goggles v1/v2, and gets power from the xt60 cable right before it enters the goggles to power itself as well. That way the analog signal from the external VRX module and holder with a power adapter and all, can use the DJI goggles as the Screen basically. Oh and by the way, thanks for the videos. I just took apart my older fpv drone motors and they sound so much smoother now. I wonder if it would cause the issue i was having with one motor just randomly cutting out or not starting on Arm Dyn Idle..
As for a reliable analog vtx, I always buy Rush. Rush Tank for 5 inch, Rush Solo for Long Range 7 Inch. I personally ran the Eachine EV800D as my first Box goggles, and it's great, but limitation of penetration and distance is noticable. I also tried the Analog to DJI av conversion, it was OK, but quite limiting for distance. I personally upgraded to a pair of Fatsharks with TBS Fusion and have been getting good range, I bought it off the second hand market. But end of the day for the most enjoyment I still get from typical air units, which I hunt for discounts for the Runcam Wasp on Aliexpress, which is on discount now.
Do you have any advice for motors with c-clips's? Also can you run these in water after for drag to do a final clean, like you would do for a dirt brushed motor, or a brushed motor with new brushes..?
C-Clips are extemely hard, Id usually use two 1.5mm Hex screws to push them away to open the shaft. Just careful as it might drop away and onto the floor where its hard to find. I cant comment on brushed motors as i've never worked with them, but im assuming it'll be ok as long as you sufficiently dry them after water.
Not advice that I care to follow, based on the fact that he fan dried his electronics, right after giving his drone an old fashioned shower in his bathtub! Can anyone say "rust",??
my quickest fix ever. replace the motor.. done ! 😮
Dude! That soldering iron & loctite technique just blew my mind! It doesn't matter if someone else thought it up, thank you for passing it along!
It’s an old video by Jb. Glad to pass useful info along 😊
I agree with everything that you said in this video, except for the metallic brush on the motor windings you are actually scraping and enamel coating that manufacturers put on the motor windings to waterproof them and protect them right off and then when you put it under the showerhead, you’re actually going to cause those windings to start to rust
So detail legit . Finally i found a video on how to clean your Fpv motors in different ways.
Advice, don't brush the copper windings too hard with the wire brush, they have a coating that they need to keep :D
mas bien no lo haria! mal consejo ahi! .. tiene que ser un cepillo de cerdas suaves y no metalico! 😝
@@deiravid_fpv si!
Do NOT use any kind of metal brush on your motor windings. If you scratch the clear lacquer coating on them they are toast and unfixable unless you feel like rewinding them. I wouldn’t even use a brush.
@@SkeezyFPV what would you recommend? a toothbrush with plastic is also not ok? my motors are full of mud unfortunately
Or brush it with a soft bristle tooth brush its that simple 😅 btw keep up the good work love from India ❤
You can use chewing gum or bluetack instead of metal brush, its working perfectly.
Nice trick with bend bell ty.
Using pieces of paper as a feeler gauge to measure magnet to stator clearance would probably be easier to identify bell runout than simply eyeballing it.
That’s a great idea!
That pliers bending method, genius. Tape to remove metal shavings from magnets, genius!
New motors are nice, but if i had to buy a new motor every time i flew into some concrete I'd go bankrupt.
For removing iron particles from the magnets inside motor bells, I find a tacky putty works great! The putty I have is intended for temporary placement of posters on walls. Don't land/crash in sand! Edit: of course looking to the right shows that JB did a video 4 years ago on this with a thumbnail showing what I just said....
Awesome video on restoring the motors👍. Thanks
Thanks! You just helped me fix a motor that I thought was busted. All I had to do was take the bell off and put it back on 😂
Glad to contribute to you saving money 🤑
@@TanFK well it turned out that it was a bad bearing so I called a few local bearing suppliers, picked up two at their warehouse, and I’m back up in the air again! Still a VERY easy fix and it gives me peace of mind rather than worrying about my quad eventually falling out of the sky. I’m a firm believer in preventive maintenance preventing bad things from happening. Or at least limiting the risks. Great vid and thanks for the help!
Good video. Thank you for he great info
Excellent video 👍🏻 I’ve been washing my motors the same way for years - easy way to keep them going for ages
Good to hear validation on this. I’d hope this video reaches the new guys to follow and DIY their repairs, stuffs expensive!
Question:
Does the exposure to moisture cause any component in the motor to oxidize over time?
My personal space is on the humid side and I've been wondering about my quads long term health.
@@sunsetpark_fpv just ensure the motors are immediately dried after washing either in direct sunlight, over a ducted heater or hairdryer/hot air station
@@ThirdEyeFPV Thank you 😎
Nice video
Pack Hi tack or silly putty or even your chewed-up bubblegum into the motor belll then it will pull out metal shavings when removed
Hot Glue works better than a brush or even putty to remove metal shavings!
Well done
2:50 you can buy boxes of O ring for cheap :)
Hey, Tan good video, I'm Malaysian but stay at Ireland i just been new in this hobby ..i would like someone from Malaysian maybe sharing something....
If ya need info ask me anytime bro
Awesome in depth video! You should definitely have more subs!
Thanks friend
i think u need to use plastic brush instead metal brush, it can damage your wire enamel
From my experience with a plastic brush it's harder to get off carbon or metal shavings.
But you do bring up a good point. There is a risk to damaging the enamel if you brush too hard, I should've emphasis to be gentle while using the metal brush.
Excellent video and great tips! 👍
Similar to mud... I sometimes fly at the beach and get sand in my motors. Metal particles in the sand stick to the magnets and cause the motors not to spin. I clean it using a regular toothbrush and it seems to work well.
Another thing to check for is burnt or partially burn coils. Check visually if all or some of the coils are black or blackish rather than brown. If so, the enamel has melted and the coil is functionally compromised. Even if it works now, the motor could soon fail in flight leading to complete quad loss. In this case I replace the entire motor. It may be possible to do coil rewiring but I don't know how / never tried it.
How to fix a wire that snaps right at the motor? The very thin cooper wire that is right under the motor
Sorry that one is unexplored territory for me,
But check this video out around the 7 minute mark
ruclips.net/video/OCAuvENiyFo/видео.html
If you could trace the ends of the three strains of copper wire of the windings you might be able to do something about it.
Link on that cool plier..
I have the same set of Hexdriver's. Ive had them for about a year now and the Tip's are still perfect. Do you have a link to them? I cant find where i ordered them from to re-order i set. I remember they werent too expensive at the time at least and i just figured id take a chance. I love them now. Just want a backup set. I got the full set that goes down to 0.7mm and i actually needed it to repair a dji drone. it was one of those really small size's..
I saw them on Aliexpress. Just search 'Hex Screw Driver' or 25 in 1 sets if you want something more specific
for the metal dust or rusts u can use putty and they will a 200times better job than tape also why did use a metal brush on the copper windings 4:30
Yeah a majority of comments are also echoing this I’ll defo give it a try if I get into this unfortunate situation again 😅
As for the metal brush it’s because my previous times cleaning solid stuff the plastic doesn’t effectively sweep solids so I opted for a more rigid brush. But the brushing needs to be more gentle for sure
So … I messed up. Exactly what you were worried about… I stripped my screw and now I am clueless as to how to open the bell as there is a piece of junk inside ta motor which I need to remove. Pls help
Try searching stripped screw guides. Ive seen The rubber method alot but it didnt Work for me.
I normally Cut The screw with a mini hacksaw And use a - screw Driver to get it out
What analog VTS's do you use and have good luck with? Just looking for a good brand solid analog VTX for clear and not-glitchy signal with some distance between goggles?
Would i see a noticeable upgrade in replacing my Eachine VR-007 older but great clear screen, no dvr or anything, one anttena, and internal VRX.
I see the Eachine 800D i believe theyre called as supposed to be the best budget friendly option at $100 and it has dual antennas, patch and omni antennas, and SD Card DVR built in, but again not replaceable VRX.
I have a few digital DJI drones and one 5" with an O3 Air Unit, and its obviously super clear, and never breaks up at all within reasonable distance..
But i have a lot of other drones and i dont hate Analog, plus its just to expensive to convert every drone i might want to build and fly either.
Especially with a good analog camera for night flying is so much fun for going in and out of lit area's, as long as its dimly lit by something, it will be in B&W, but you'll be able to see just fine..
Where as the DJI O3 air unit system is literally unflyable at night!!
So im not opposed to investing in wha they have now, which is VRX holder Module Bay for the DJI goggles, like an HDZERO analog has sort of with the HDMI-IN Ports.
It just lets you use that A/V feed and plug it into your DJI goggles v1/v2, and gets power from the xt60 cable right before it enters the goggles to power itself as well.
That way the analog signal from the external VRX module and holder with a power adapter and all, can use the DJI goggles as the Screen basically.
Oh and by the way, thanks for the videos. I just took apart my older fpv drone motors and they sound so much smoother now. I wonder if it would cause the issue i was having with one motor just randomly cutting out or not starting on Arm Dyn Idle..
As for a reliable analog vtx, I always buy Rush.
Rush Tank for 5 inch, Rush Solo for Long Range 7 Inch.
I personally ran the Eachine EV800D as my first Box goggles, and it's great, but limitation of penetration and distance is noticable.
I also tried the Analog to DJI av conversion, it was OK, but quite limiting for distance.
I personally upgraded to a pair of Fatsharks with TBS Fusion and have been getting good range, I bought it off the second hand market.
But end of the day for the most enjoyment I still get from typical air units, which I hunt for discounts for the Runcam Wasp on Aliexpress, which is on discount now.
Do you have any advice for motors with c-clips's? Also can you run these in water after for drag to do a final clean, like you would do for a dirt brushed motor, or a brushed motor with new brushes..?
C-Clips are extemely hard, Id usually use two 1.5mm Hex screws to push them away to open the shaft. Just careful as it might drop away and onto the floor where its hard to find. I cant comment on brushed motors as i've never worked with them, but im assuming it'll be ok as long as you sufficiently dry them after water.
What tool you use to fix bent bell?
I was using a Motor Clamp, But Vice Grips works well too.
DO NOT brush motor coils with a metal brush! the wire has a layer of silicon(e) to prevent the wire from shorting out on itself!!
Ah another Klang boy. Which high school you went to?
Hey bro. Am from ACS. How bout ya?
Not advice that I care to follow, based on the fact that he fan dried his electronics, right after giving his drone an old fashioned shower in his bathtub! Can anyone say "rust",??
Great content. Very useful.
I'm subb'n ya bro!