You're fricken awesome Josh. Seriously. Some people have the knowledge, experience, skills, and fundamental understanding that you do, but they're completely incapable of teaching it effectively to others. Some people are great teachers and very articulate in conveying effectively to others what they know, but they don't actually know much that other people want to learn. Some people have all of the above but have little interest or enthusiasm in sharing it. But in the quadcopter, FPV, and Tx/Rx world, you DO have all of that. So rare. And SO appreciated. To be honest, we need a few additional Josh Bardwells...one for RC planes, one for RC helis, and now that I think about it, probably a lot of other topics too. Thanks for all you do man.
some of my motor's mounting screw holes are too wide and the screws just slide in there freely , no grip,, any help please so I can mount my motors ? thanks a lot in advance , it would be a great help ,,by the way the screw size I'm using is correct, as I said, just some of them is like that ,
Your knowledge blows me away! I’m an aircraft mechanic and thought this hobby would be simple but found quickly that quadscopters a lot harder to deal with than a 747 seriously it might sound crazy but it’s true!! I laugh everyday how much I have to learn! I love this hobby and appreciate people like you that share freely
JB, i was just flying outside of a machine shop yesterday and crashed right into the metal shavings dumpster... so this was the EXACT video i needed. you saved the day, as usual.
Was about to order a new motor, saw this video, twisted and shook the motor, armed it a few times holding it upside down (using KISS, so no death spirals) now it works as normal and no grinding... Saved me a few bucks, Appreciate you Joshua!
I feel like twisting to get the dirt out might damage the stator if you have big particles in there. I believe the stator is composed of thin isolated sheets of metal, and rubbing them might cause them to make contact with each other. I don't know if that may cause significant performance loss tho.
i think you're right... just twisting to grind the dirt out is also grinding on the magnets and conductors. i did a little bit of twisting with a whole lot of canned air and it cleared it out pretty easily. If your lucky, the air might grab some of the mangetic stuff but taking it apart is the only way... i like the silly putty idea though... if i ever fly through iron filings, it'll come in handy.
ferrous dust is the WORST!!! I can't tell you how many times I've had to dissemble and clean motors just like this! Toothbrush, alcohol, compressed air, blue tac, q-tips... yup use them all!!! If you can get enough PSI out of a compressor, sometimes you can blow through the top of the bell, while slowly rotating the motor back and forth.. sadly it only works about 1/2 the time and motor disassembly is required! For those that were requesting bearing replacement, I suggest looking up "Project Blue Falcon" (RIP miss ya JC) he has many excellent videos!!! Cheers and #sendit
JB, tip for tight screws/ bolts,just try and tighten the Screw/ bolt slightly this will stretch the stem ,and now you can undo,still use heat on locktite applications! A
if you have a bit of thermal paste laying around, place a dab in the screw head. it wont get in the way of the tool, and will easily squish out when you place the tool into the screw.
@Barack Obama This may work for putting them back on, but when you take them off the clip is flush with the bottom of the motor (and often sunk under the naked bottom feet so very hard to do..
You blokes could always buy the correct pliers for slotting in to the loops on C-Clips. E-Clips (like the ones on Phantom1/2/3 motors) will push off with a Jewelers flathead screwdriver.
Late to the party here.. Thanks for the info. Super helpful because I've got some mud bogged motors. When removing the bell I ended up having to put the prop nut back on and using a pair of pliers pinched on the bell rod. Worked out perfectly.
Hi Josh. I have been into RC cars 🚙 and trucks 🛻 for years. When I get dirt into my electric motors and had to clean them I learned different ways to do this. Brushless motors I’d remove and disassemble and easily whip them clean with just simple water 💦. Dry them out with air or a dry cloth than spray them down with electric motor cleaner which helped remove a lot of access dirt. Finally use a clean cloth use a couple drops of silicone oil on the steel rods to keep them lubed and reassemble the motor. Brushed motors (or where disassembling isn’t an option like DJI drones): remove the props place each motor into some water 💦 with a drop of dish soap 🧼. Shake the motor in the water if motor doesn’t want to free spin due to sand and this will generally remove access problem pebbles. To really get the dirt out turn the motor on in the water and run it. The water will wash out all the dirt. Dry the motor with air or a cloth than spray down with electric ⚡️ motor cleaner or an electric ⚡️ connector spray that will remove the iron particles from the motor. Whip clean and use a Q-tip with a couple drops of silicone oil on the ends to help keep lubricanted. I never had an issue doing this, no rust and my motors work like new afterwords. ❤
Hey Josh,, I know this is an old video, but I've found that using a tiny drop of 70- 90% isopropyl alcohol will wick into the threads and start to dissolve your locktight.. This will remove any threat of overheating your motor with a soldering iron.. give it a try on any locktighted bolt you have,, you'll see how it really loosens up.
LOL at the end of each video, JB says "happy flying" and then this sorta sad music cues up - reminds me of Bill Bixby at the end of every episode of the Hulk :P
JB a ZMX Motor Rep told me to use bearing oil if they have some time on them as grease wears away, and lightly coat stator face to prevent rust and shaft before reassemble.
I use a q tip with rubbing alcohol to wipe the bell and Also , you need to clean the stator as well , that's probably why the motor still had some "crunch". Also, its an good idea to keep cans of compressed air around to blow out the motors .
Thank you for this. I had to drill out a screw head on my frame and got shavings in my magnets. The screws that come with a source one V5 area all junk I've now changed them all out.
you saved my motors josh! i was not sure how to remove these screws and had to angle grind my way through a screw once.... now i know that 3 mins of heat at 800F will do the trick too ; )
Josh, For installing the bell housing try putting a dowel into the shaft area. Use the dowel to control how fast the bell housing slides back on the stator assembly. Tony
Omg, blue tack! Why in the world havent I thought of this? Dude. Ty. So much. If I could fly a beer to you, I would - if only my drone could make it lol
Joshua, i have a problem with one of the motors of my quad copter. Default motors are 2206 2300kv and my question is if replace the broken one with 2205 2300kv, thrust differences between motors would be big?
Hey Josh! Your video are always so helpful and are soo easy to follow. The one video that i couldent follow and was not successful with was the 2 switch arming. Is a updated version possible?
I use contact cleaner because the dirt here in Oregon is very ferrous in my area. Just spray the motors while wiggling then back and fourth. Everything comes out after a second or two. Then I drop a little trip of lube if I've had to do it a bunch
Hy JB !! My mobula 6 flew in the dust !! What do you think about cleaning the 0802 brushless motor by using 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner in spray can ?? Does whoop motor has bearing ?? if yes, does the 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol will remove the grease ??
Wait for it to dry then turn the motor with your hand to grind out the dry mud. If it feels reasonably smooth (e.g. no rocks in it) spin it with props off to finish it up. Go fly.
I saw someone comment on banggood that you need to oil the mob7 (or I guess most motors in general) every so often. I’ve noticed one of my motors making slight whine or high pitch humming, does that mean it needs oil, or I somehow screwed it up a bit?
U flying the xrtonic 3020 solder station I love that iron...have u ever had it fly the heat fly away...had to watranty one station. Great customer service!
air compressed (canned) is working fine for me to clean motors (on field mainly), and a little drop of sewing machine oil (singer) is good too for bearings
a wet rag is also a great way to pull magnetic dirt out, a compressor tends to blow metal particles from one magnet to another the silly putty is awesome
Hey Joshua, I don't know if you remember back in Sarasota Kwad Camp. I had set my motors down on my work bench next to my drill press. The LeDrib HL were pretty screwed. Drew suggested I use gum to get the shavings out and it worked like a charm. I'm still flying 3 of the original motors. Great info.
Take hex driver that fits thru motor bearing hole in frame and can guide motor bell back on,I ruined 1 of my Bh deadpool motor bearings after letting bell pop on,bearings were toast after that sounded like had rocks in between bell and magnets,thanks for all you do:)
More how-to videos please. I ruined some motors with construction site gravel dust, even after spinning upside down to clean them out. now i just remove the bell and use the sink for it, and air compressor for the stator because bearings and water don't mix. Good duct tape is so sticky that it can be used for the ferrous particles.
Tip for gently lowering the bell: use a plastic rod inserted up through the bottom of the stator and as you lower the bell in place you can use the plastic rod to control the seating speed of the bell... These bearings are so not a fan of lateral forces 👌
Dang! That is what I messed up. I had a nice set of rotor riot hypetrain motors, and I had my motors get packed with mud and washing them out but that did not get it fixed. So I went to take the bells of, the first worked perfectly but the next two stripped out and I had to drill them. I was rather unhappy to say the least. I ended up buying two new bells and then this stripped out when I tightened them. Man I was mad. Thanks Josh I will be able to do better at fixing them next time.
Take the outer and inner apart as you did . I've had this problem many times Just wash them with good old water under a sink or a hose and they come clean as new. water works
Hey Joshua! Nice video! In one of my motors i feel with my finger that the case wants to start spinning but it never starts. I clean it thinking it had to do with dry mud or something but It is like electronically blocked... Do you think it is just broken or can I save it somehow? Thank you man I love your videos!
@@JoshuaBardwell thx Joshua. It was the ESC because I tried with another motor and it happened the same...The Bihelisuite didnt give me any error...strange thing.🤔
Bardwell I need your help ... Is the balancing piece that you mentioned essential.. because i noticed that one just came off from my motor and the motor is doing some weird sound.. It could be the bearing as well..
It you have a clip instead of a screw, can you remove the clip without destoying the clip? I always have to replace the clip after opening a motor. Would be great to see your method...
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks. That is the answer i have expected. I have no idea why they use these crappy clips instead of classic E-clips. These would be so easy to handle.
So I watched this video a bit too late and just cleaned my first set of motors with solvent. It worked well but totally dried out the berrings. Any reccomendations for how to lube those berrings again? replace the berrings? replace the motors?
Get bearing oil. Remove the bearings. Soak the bearings overnight in a plastic bag of bearing oil such that they are basically bathed in it. The problem with this is that oil will continually have to be reapplied whereas grease basically just stays in there (not indefinitely but longer). You could also replace the bearings. Simply dripping bearing oil onto the shroud isn't likely to work well as it doesn't really get past the shroud into the bearing very effectively.
I am using "kontakt 60 spray" which is really nice if you want to clean electrical parts. It safes your electronic parts from corrosion if it fell into the water and did not short circuit. 👍
My 1st set of motors were racerstars, current are the $9. DYS (samguk?) freaking love them for the price. Both have tiny c clips. Does that mean they’re cheap/poor quality ? My samguk motor bell popped off during a crash. Didn’t have my parts bag or tools with me at the time. I popped it back on and finished my day without any problems. Iron shavings are common minerals throughout the world. I like the blue tech 💡.
Joshua Bardwell I like the idea of a screw over those clips. They work ok but you have to un mount the motors from the frame and flip them over to get at them. Ok by me but a screw would be easier.
Most of the time, if you just get em spinning, they will throw out even the magnetic particles. It's tough for a mechanical person to do, but it's really the easiest on the motors. Just swallow hard and hit the throtttle, they will grind a few seconds but in 10 seconds they will have thrown all the crap out and be good as new. I use tape to clean when I have to, any kind works in a pinch, and I usually have some in my bag. Use a 1.5mm driver pushed thru the bearings (from the bottom) to let the bell down without it slamming. Just push the driver thru all the way and put the threaded shaft over the tip. Then lower the bell in place. This is also the best way to tap the shaft loose if necessary. A drop of good oil once every 10 or 12 flights seems to help. (I like the Cobra oil, but 3 in 1 works well for 1/10 the price) Add the oil just before a flight and it will throw the excess off, and not attract dirt to the bearings. Oh, yeah, beware of the new Emax motors, they have a shim between the bell and bearings. If you're not careful it will fall in the grass and be gone. This shim keeps the bell from going on too far - the screw pulls against it. They are special, having a taper on one side to clear the shaft fillet. They didn't sell them separately when I dropped mine, not sure if they do as yet. Cost me a new motor to take the shim out of.
Joshua Bardwell other than pliers, or wrenches. Do you know of a tool that can hold the shaft in place while you twist to unscrew the shaft screw? I’m trying to avoid bending or ruining the threads on the shaft by using pliers.
something that was not addressed in this video: when putting the motor back together, should i try to put some red loctite on the bolt? i'm assuming that is what was originally on there to require the heat to break it?
I use a small flat head to carefully scrape out the iron from the space in between the motors, so that the putty can easily get it out. (Not on the spacing with the mud). I also use a nylon brush to pile in up in one spot at the end of the groove so it’s easier to get off
some of my motor's mounting screw holes are too wide and the screws just slide in there freely , no grip,, any help please so I can mount my motors ? thanks a lot in advance , it would be a great help ,,by the way the screw size I'm using is correct, as I said, just some of them is like that ,
Just getting into the hobby but been racing touring rc cars and buggys and truggys since the 80,s. But one essential tool we would have is a small compressor and electric contact spray like Dynamite or TA Emerald. Alittle spray and blow it out. Now they have an electric blower that isn't as strong but is more portabke. A cheap inverter from Harbor Freight ,at the field, would be ideal
I'm a Californian, you use warm wax to remove the hematite from my bell housings. Just cool down candle drippings until you can knead it and it grabs that crap off cleanly.
A friend of mine started out with an eachine x220, quickly burned out an esc and bent his motors, giving him vibrations. His video feed was as if you took handheld video in a gokart on a bumpy road. We switches out his escs with some proper ones and his motors with T-Motor F40 III and the quad was great. No vibration to speak of, it flew great. Then we went flying a few times, crashed a few times. We only ever flew over grass fields, so he mostly crashed at moderate speeds into the grass and into simple gates (plastic conduit covered in pool noodles). After a few sessions, hes starting to see pretty severe vibration again., its borderline unflyable. He's understandably annoyed, because he just spent some good money on proper motors and they're toast after a few sessions. I had similar crashes with some Ledrib motors and have no problems at all. Do you think cleaning out the motors might help? I thought maybe they're just unbalanced due to some dirt/grass in the bell somewhere. Since the T-Motors are closed-bottom, i was thinking if dirt managed to get in there it might stay in easier. Or do motors really break so easily?
Are the props in good condition? Even a prop that's been bent and then straightened my appear to be fine but can cause significant vibrations. Install fresh props first, if still vibes, then delve in to the motors.
@@RCinginSC yeah, all fresh props was the first thing we tried. Even without props on the quad wanders off the desk from vibrations when slowly spinning up.
You can use painters tape to remove iron filings and other magnetic stuff. Apply the tape like he did the putty. You can use a pencil or small screwdriver to push the tape into the crevasses to get the stubborn stuff out.
Hey awesome Joshua! that's such a happy coincidence because I need to clean my motors after my flights at a Bando last Sunday. I've asked a friend and he told me to remove the bell the way you do, use compressed air and/or water (great tip for the blue tack) and then, he said to use WD-40 to finish. I'm pretty sure that can be good for the bearings but since you made a video about this, have you tried this too? If yes, would you recommend using that too?
If you run WD40 through the bearings it will remove the factory grease and then you will need to constantly lubricate them with bearing oil. If you leave the bearings alone, the factory grease will do its job and they will be fine for the life of the bearing (which, given how we treat them, may not be long).
There is a electric cleaner you can spray for dirt and mud. Also when you heat the screw the shaft will begin to absorb the heat which means it will expand. So try to heat the screw not the shaft.
Can you show us your skills on trying to take the C clips off?? which is the worst to take apart. E clips are the best/easiest to take off.. No heat require just a small flat head screw driver. :)
(Iron oxide) rust hey Joshua or anyone experienced with this sport/hobby could u recommend some tri-props for a factory mjx bugs3 Also if I upgrade my motors on it is it necessary to change esc as well
to reassemble gently insert a long screw through the base of the stator (same thread as retaining screw) and screw it into the bell so the bell is just above the stator. then holding the screw in one hand and bell in the other with the drones arm between your palms slow navigate the bell back on.
Does anyone have an advice for me? I have an EMAX RS2205 S motor, I removed the screw but I'm not able to remove the bell. I can turn the motor, I can hear the scratching but I can't pull the bell off. I thought about using WD40 to make it maybe loose... my last landing was more or less on sandy ground. The motor is pretty new so I do not want to ruin it while trying to get the bell off. Does someone have a trick how I can get it off without ruin it? All other motors disassembled super easy. Just this one motor... :( Perfect timing JB, the right video at the right time :) And as always a pleasure to watch.
Since the screw threads into the bell you can use the screw to help setup a push + pull when you have one stuck. I put the screw half way in and press upwards from the bottom while pulling upwards from the top. After you break it free once you can remove the screw again and pull off with normal amount of force.
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
You're fricken awesome Josh. Seriously. Some people have the knowledge, experience, skills, and fundamental understanding that you do, but they're completely incapable of teaching it effectively to others. Some people are great teachers and very articulate in conveying effectively to others what they know, but they don't actually know much that other people want to learn. Some people have all of the above but have little interest or enthusiasm in sharing it. But in the quadcopter, FPV, and Tx/Rx world, you DO have all of that. So rare. And SO appreciated. To be honest, we need a few additional Josh Bardwells...one for RC planes, one for RC helis, and now that I think about it, probably a lot of other topics too. Thanks for all you do man.
I couldn’t agree more 👍👍👍
I couldn't agree more Steve. Hail the mighty Bardon! :)
some of my motor's mounting screw holes are too wide and the screws just slide in there freely , no grip,, any help please so I can mount my motors ? thanks a lot in advance , it would be a great help ,,by the way the screw size I'm using is correct, as I said, just some of them is like that ,
@@bbab9051 use a washer between screw and hole. Hardware store.
Your knowledge blows me away! I’m an aircraft mechanic and thought this hobby would be simple but found quickly that quadscopters a lot harder to deal with than a 747 seriously it might sound crazy but it’s true!! I laugh everyday how much I have to learn! I love this hobby and appreciate people like you that share freely
That's pretty funny! 😅😅
Just put the prop on before sliding the two parts back together. Gives you something to hold on to.
Might bend the props tho
@@gus8378 use broken props 😎🤙
@@thelazerproject I knew the broken props I've been keeping would be useful for something!
That’s what she said
I also use sewing machine oil for the bearings and run the motor.
JB, i was just flying outside of a machine shop yesterday and crashed right into the metal shavings dumpster... so this was the EXACT video i needed. you saved the day, as usual.
Was about to order a new motor, saw this video, twisted and shook the motor, armed it a few times holding it upside down (using KISS, so no death spirals) now it works as normal and no grinding... Saved me a few bucks, Appreciate you Joshua!
I always clean my motors with an X-Acto knife. Both because it’s handy and it’s fun to watch people FREAK OUT in the video comments when I record it.
Lol, I hate it.when I have to open up the motors
I feel like twisting to get the dirt out might damage the stator if you have big particles in there.
I believe the stator is composed of thin isolated sheets of metal, and rubbing them might cause them to make contact with each other. I don't know if that may cause significant performance loss tho.
i think you're right... just twisting to grind the dirt out is also grinding on the magnets and conductors. i did a little bit of twisting with a whole lot of canned air and it cleared it out pretty easily. If your lucky, the air might grab some of the mangetic stuff but taking it apart is the only way... i like the silly putty idea though... if i ever fly through iron filings, it'll come in handy.
ferrous dust is the WORST!!! I can't tell you how many times I've had to dissemble and clean motors just like this! Toothbrush, alcohol, compressed air, blue tac, q-tips... yup use them all!!! If you can get enough PSI out of a compressor, sometimes you can blow through the top of the bell, while slowly rotating the motor back and forth.. sadly it only works about 1/2 the time and motor disassembly is required! For those that were requesting bearing replacement, I suggest looking up "Project Blue Falcon" (RIP miss ya JC) he has many excellent videos!!! Cheers and #sendit
JB, tip for tight screws/ bolts,just try and tighten the Screw/ bolt slightly this will stretch the stem ,and now you can undo,still use heat on locktite applications! A
if you have a bit of thermal paste laying around, place a dab in the screw head. it wont get in the way of the tool, and will easily squish out when you place the tool into the screw.
I would love to see how you get the c clips off and what tools you use
Barack Obama thank you !
@Barack Obama This may work for putting them back on, but when you take them off the clip is flush with the bottom of the motor (and often sunk under the naked bottom feet so very hard to do..
I guess... I don't have that kind of dexterity. Having big clumsy fingers makes this so hard...
You blokes could always buy the correct pliers for slotting in to the loops on C-Clips.
E-Clips (like the ones on Phantom1/2/3 motors) will push off with a Jewelers flathead screwdriver.
PiDsMedia I can’t find a pair small enough to work or I would already have bought them
Late to the party here.. Thanks for the info. Super helpful because I've got some mud bogged motors. When removing the bell I ended up having to put the prop nut back on and using a pair of pliers pinched on the bell rod. Worked out perfectly.
Hi Josh.
I have been into RC cars 🚙 and trucks 🛻 for years. When I get dirt into my electric motors and had to clean them I learned different ways to do this.
Brushless motors I’d remove and disassemble and easily whip them clean with just simple water 💦. Dry them out with air or a dry cloth than spray them down with electric motor cleaner which helped remove a lot of access dirt. Finally use a clean cloth use a couple drops of silicone oil on the steel rods to keep them lubed and reassemble the motor.
Brushed motors (or where disassembling isn’t an option like DJI drones): remove the props place each motor into some water 💦 with a drop of dish soap 🧼. Shake the motor in the water if motor doesn’t want to free spin due to sand and this will generally remove access problem pebbles. To really get the dirt out turn the motor on in the water and run it. The water will wash out all the dirt. Dry the motor with air or a cloth than spray down with electric ⚡️ motor cleaner or an electric ⚡️ connector spray that will remove the iron particles from the motor. Whip clean and use a Q-tip with a couple drops of silicone oil on the ends to help keep lubricanted.
I never had an issue doing this, no rust and my motors work like new afterwords. ❤
Hey Josh,, I know this is an old video, but I've found that using a tiny drop of 70- 90% isopropyl alcohol will wick into the threads and start to dissolve your locktight.. This will remove any threat of overheating your motor with a soldering iron.. give it a try on any locktighted bolt you have,, you'll see how it really loosens up.
LOL at the end of each video, JB says "happy flying" and then this sorta sad music cues up - reminds me of Bill Bixby at the end of every episode of the Hulk :P
JB a ZMX Motor Rep told me to use bearing oil if they have some time on them as grease wears away, and lightly coat stator face to prevent rust and shaft before reassemble.
Just seeing this for the first time.. Do you ever oil your motors? Just wondering if it's a good maintenance practice.
I use a q tip with rubbing alcohol to wipe the bell and Also , you need to clean the stator as well , that's probably why the motor still had some "crunch". Also, its an good idea to keep cans of compressed air around to blow out the motors .
This man is the best in fpv!!!
Thank you for this. I had to drill out a screw head on my frame and got shavings in my magnets. The screws that come with a source one V5 area all junk I've now changed them all out.
you saved my motors josh! i was not sure how to remove these screws and had to angle grind my way through a screw once.... now i know that 3 mins of heat at 800F will do the trick too ; )
Josh,
For installing the bell housing try putting a dowel into the shaft area. Use the dowel to control how fast the bell housing slides back on the stator assembly. Tony
Joshua. I am so thankful for this video
Omg, blue tack! Why in the world havent I thought of this? Dude. Ty. So much. If I could fly a beer to you, I would - if only my drone could make it lol
Awesome. I got iron sand in a motor after landing on the beach. Now it’s running like new again. Thanks!
Joshua, i have a problem with one of the motors of my quad copter. Default motors are 2206 2300kv and my question is if replace the broken one with 2205 2300kv, thrust differences between motors would be big?
ive heard some ppl use break fluid to take the magnetic particles out do u think that's fine to do or will it cause any future damges
I'm in 2023. Today, I've seen videos from you 6 years ago and now 4. Thank you. You the man!
Hey Josh! Your video are always so helpful and are soo easy to follow. The one video that i couldent follow and was not successful with was the 2 switch arming. Is a updated version possible?
I am at your location to, got a bunch of that stuff stuck in my motors, lifesaving thank you!
I also replace the factory motor screws with a more robust screw when I get the motor to avoid stripping the screw in the future. 👌
I use contact cleaner because the dirt here in Oregon is very ferrous in my area. Just spray the motors while wiggling then back and fourth. Everything comes out after a second or two. Then I drop a little trip of lube if I've had to do it a bunch
Been there, Done that. That is a normal thing here in Arizona. Compressed Air works great too.
Where you from in az
@@paulbennett9077 I bet flagstaff it is horrible all ferrous dirt since all the volcanic cinders
thank you very much, this video saved 4 engines
Hy JB !! My mobula 6 flew in the dust !! What do you think about cleaning the 0802 brushless motor by using 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner in spray can ?? Does whoop motor has bearing ?? if yes, does the 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol will remove the grease ??
Great as always. Would be good to see a video about a quad maintenance regime (each flight, monthly, annual)
Try landing in sand with a Beta65x brushless whoop... wasn't too fun ripping 2 of those small motors apart...
Joshua, can you link where we can buy those spare brass rings? My bell felt off after a crash, so do the ring
Hey Joshua,
What if ya got mud in your motors and windings - same process? Should I wait for it to dry or just go at it?
Wait for it to dry then turn the motor with your hand to grind out the dry mud. If it feels reasonably smooth (e.g. no rocks in it) spin it with props off to finish it up. Go fly.
I saw someone comment on banggood that you need to oil the mob7 (or I guess most motors in general) every so often. I’ve noticed one of my motors making slight whine or high pitch humming, does that mean it needs oil, or I somehow screwed it up a bit?
U flying the xrtonic 3020 solder station I love that iron...have u ever had it fly the heat fly away...had to watranty one station. Great customer service!
It's a Hakko 888D.
air compressed (canned) is working fine for me to clean motors (on field mainly), and a little drop of sewing machine oil (singer) is good too for bearings
Mixing oil and grease is not good for the bearings
Anyone else feel like josh is like... your friend. Thanks man!
a wet rag is also a great way to pull magnetic dirt out, a compressor tends to blow metal particles from one magnet to another
the silly putty is awesome
Hey Joshua, I don't know if you remember back in Sarasota Kwad Camp. I had set my motors down on my work bench next to my drill press. The LeDrib HL were pretty screwed. Drew suggested I use gum to get the shavings out and it worked like a charm. I'm still flying 3 of the original motors. Great info.
Hi Joshua, first of all thanks for this vid! it helps me a lot! Is it okay if I use a silicon oil to lubricate bearings? Thanks in advance.
I learned something today .. and needed this today .. iron deposits in Ca suck
Take hex driver that fits thru motor bearing hole in frame and can guide motor bell back on,I ruined 1 of my Bh deadpool motor bearings after letting bell pop on,bearings were toast after that sounded like had rocks in between bell and magnets,thanks for all you do:)
Fabulous video, saved me a wrecked motor
Almost ALL my knowledge of drones came from this man right here🤣🤣
Really useful and interesting video, especially that "balancing mud". Good to know!
I really appreciate your time for this. But I am stuck and have so many questions. Who can I get info from.
You are welcome to reach out to me via email or FB messenger and I'll do my best to help.
More how-to videos please. I ruined some motors with construction site gravel dust, even after spinning upside down to clean them out. now i just remove the bell and use the sink for it, and air compressor for the stator because bearings and water don't mix. Good duct tape is so sticky that it can be used for the ferrous particles.
Tip for gently lowering the bell: use a plastic rod inserted up through the bottom of the stator and as you lower the bell in place you can use the plastic rod to control the seating speed of the bell... These bearings are so not a fan of lateral forces 👌
Won't that bend the shaft?
@@gus8378 the stator is hollow, the plastic rod (
@@diabolicallydan I see. I though you meant prying the bell from the outside, between the bell and the stator as you lower the bell
Dang! That is what I messed up. I had a nice set of rotor riot hypetrain motors, and I had my motors get packed with mud and washing them out but that did not get it fixed. So I went to take the bells of, the first worked perfectly but the next two stripped out and I had to drill them. I was rather unhappy to say the least. I ended up buying two new bells and then this stripped out when I tightened them. Man I was mad.
Thanks Josh I will be able to do better at fixing them next time.
Take the outer and inner apart as you did . I've had this problem many times
Just wash them with good old water under a sink or a hose and they come clean as new. water works
Hey Joshua! Nice video! In one of my motors i feel with my finger that the case wants to start spinning but it never starts. I clean it thinking it had to do with dry mud or something but It is like electronically blocked... Do you think it is just broken or can I save it somehow? Thank you man I love your videos!
You can double check all your solder joints. But likely it's a damaged motor or ESC.
@@JoshuaBardwell thx Joshua. It was the ESC because I tried with another motor and it happened the same...The Bihelisuite didnt give me any error...strange thing.🤔
Bardwell I need your help ... Is the balancing piece that you mentioned essential.. because i noticed that one just came off from my motor and the motor is doing some weird sound.. It could be the bearing as well..
Yes, it's essential that motors be balalnced.
It you have a clip instead of a screw, can you remove the clip without destoying the clip? I always have to replace the clip after opening a motor. Would be great to see your method...
I have never been able to do it myself.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks. That is the answer i have expected. I have no idea why they use these crappy clips instead of classic E-clips. These would be so easy to handle.
So I watched this video a bit too late and just cleaned my first set of motors with solvent. It worked well but totally dried out the berrings. Any reccomendations for how to lube those berrings again? replace the berrings? replace the motors?
Get bearing oil. Remove the bearings. Soak the bearings overnight in a plastic bag of bearing oil such that they are basically bathed in it.
The problem with this is that oil will continually have to be reapplied whereas grease basically just stays in there (not indefinitely but longer).
You could also replace the bearings.
Simply dripping bearing oil onto the shroud isn't likely to work well as it doesn't really get past the shroud into the bearing very effectively.
@@JoshuaBardwell Great will try that. Thank you JB!
Thanks JB. You should show how to replace bearings. I've already watched a couple how-to's, but if you got vlog block.
I am using "kontakt 60 spray"
which is really nice if you want to clean electrical parts. It safes your electronic parts from corrosion if it fell into the water and did not short circuit. 👍
Joshua I learnz something today 😃
Here in the uk blue tac is a common product that everyone uses ! Great for posters on the wall 👍🏻
hi there, do you know where i can buy some bells from your motor? i flight the JB2208 2400kv.
Thanks JB. I really enjoy your videos.
My 1st set of motors were racerstars, current are the $9. DYS (samguk?) freaking love them for the price. Both have tiny c clips. Does that mean they’re cheap/poor quality ? My samguk motor bell popped off during a crash. Didn’t have my parts bag or tools with me at the time. I popped it back on and finished my day without any problems. Iron shavings are common minerals throughout the world. I like the blue tech 💡.
C clip shafts are cheaper to manufacture but they hold the bells on fine. Just harder to get off and replace if you maintain the motor.
Joshua Bardwell how do you get them off?
@@K9TPT Snap ring pliers is the tool. Doing it inside a plastic bag so it doesn't shoot a tiny part across the room is the technique.
Joshua Bardwell I like the idea of a screw over those clips. They work ok but you have to un mount the motors from the frame and flip them over to get at them. Ok by me but a screw would be easier.
Most of the time, if you just get em spinning, they will throw out even the magnetic particles. It's tough for a mechanical person to do, but it's really the easiest on the motors. Just swallow hard and hit the throtttle, they will grind a few seconds but in 10 seconds they will have thrown all the crap out and be good as new.
I use tape to clean when I have to, any kind works in a pinch, and I usually have some in my bag.
Use a 1.5mm driver pushed thru the bearings (from the bottom) to let the bell down without it slamming. Just push the driver thru all the way and put the threaded shaft over the tip. Then lower the bell in place. This is also the best way to tap the shaft loose if necessary.
A drop of good oil once every 10 or 12 flights seems to help. (I like the Cobra oil, but 3 in 1 works well for 1/10 the price) Add the oil just before a flight and it will throw the excess off, and not attract dirt to the bearings.
Oh, yeah, beware of the new Emax motors, they have a shim between the bell and bearings. If you're not careful it will fall in the grass and be gone. This shim keeps the bell from going on too far - the screw pulls against it. They are special, having a taper on one side to clear the shaft fillet. They didn't sell them separately when I dropped mine, not sure if they do as yet. Cost me a new motor to take the shim out of.
Joshua Bardwell other than pliers, or wrenches. Do you know of a tool that can hold the shaft in place while you twist to unscrew the shaft screw? I’m trying to avoid bending or ruining the threads on the shaft by using pliers.
Leave the props on and use them to hold the bell stable as you remove the screw.
something that was not addressed in this video: when putting the motor back together, should i try to put some red loctite on the bolt? i'm assuming that is what was originally on there to require the heat to break it?
👍👍👍👍Thank you Joshua!! Now it works again.
HA... the look on J's face when he put the bell back on and gave it a spin :)
I use a small flat head to carefully scrape out the iron from the space in between the motors, so that the putty can easily get it out. (Not on the spacing with the mud). I also use a nylon brush to pile in up in one spot at the end of the groove so it’s easier to get off
your motor is so beautiful!!! im from L.A. and i always have this issue. thanks!
some of my motor's mounting screw holes are too wide and the screws just slide in there freely , no grip,, any help please so I can mount my motors ? thanks a lot in advance , it would be a great help ,,by the way the screw size I'm using is correct, as I said, just some of them is like that ,
Nice trick to clean motors using bluetack.
Thanks bro
Just getting into the hobby but been racing touring rc cars and buggys and truggys since the 80,s.
But one essential tool we would have is a small compressor and electric contact spray like Dynamite or TA Emerald. Alittle spray and blow it out. Now they have an electric blower that isn't as strong but is more portabke. A cheap inverter from Harbor Freight ,at the field, would be ideal
I've been using Blu-tack to remove magnetic dirt for a couple of years, works very well.
You must be getting bored with it by now.
@@garyhoffmann1615 fully, I live in an iron ore mining area motors need to be cleaned every week.
I just rinse them under the tap, and flies a lap to dry them. Don’t know if this hurtful ☺️
I'm a Californian, you use warm wax to remove the hematite from my bell housings. Just cool down candle drippings until you can knead it and it grabs that crap off cleanly.
A friend of mine started out with an eachine x220, quickly burned out an esc and bent his motors, giving him vibrations. His video feed was as if you took handheld video in a gokart on a bumpy road. We switches out his escs with some proper ones and his motors with T-Motor F40 III and the quad was great. No vibration to speak of, it flew great. Then we went flying a few times, crashed a few times. We only ever flew over grass fields, so he mostly crashed at moderate speeds into the grass and into simple gates (plastic conduit covered in pool noodles).
After a few sessions, hes starting to see pretty severe vibration again., its borderline unflyable. He's understandably annoyed, because he just spent some good money on proper motors and they're toast after a few sessions. I had similar crashes with some Ledrib motors and have no problems at all.
Do you think cleaning out the motors might help? I thought maybe they're just unbalanced due to some dirt/grass in the bell somewhere. Since the T-Motors are closed-bottom, i was thinking if dirt managed to get in there it might stay in easier.
Or do motors really break so easily?
Are the props in good condition? Even a prop that's been bent and then straightened my appear to be fine but can cause significant vibrations. Install fresh props first, if still vibes, then delve in to the motors.
@@RCinginSC yeah, all fresh props was the first thing we tried.
Even without props on the quad wanders off the desk from vibrations when slowly spinning up.
@@tlanfer yep, that's not a good sign. Good luck.
How do you put the screw back in ? Do you use loctite? If so which type?
Use blue one. Or any blue threadstop. It's not permanent as red one.
You can use painters tape to remove iron filings and other magnetic stuff. Apply the tape like he did the putty. You can use a pencil or small screwdriver to push the tape into the crevasses to get the stubborn stuff out.
Hey awesome Joshua! that's such a happy coincidence because I need to clean my motors after my flights at a Bando last Sunday. I've asked a friend and he told me to remove the bell the way you do, use compressed air and/or water (great tip for the blue tack) and then, he said to use WD-40 to finish. I'm pretty sure that can be good for the bearings but since you made a video about this, have you tried this too? If yes, would you recommend using that too?
If you run WD40 through the bearings it will remove the factory grease and then you will need to constantly lubricate them with bearing oil. If you leave the bearings alone, the factory grease will do its job and they will be fine for the life of the bearing (which, given how we treat them, may not be long).
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you very much. I know you've mentioned it in the video briefly, but I wasn't sure. Thank you! Have an amazing day
@@JoshuaBardwell what about only applying the WD-40 on the coils and the magnets to make sure they don't rust after washing them with water?
WD40 remnants oxidize into a wax after awhile so you don't want that in the motor or bearings.
There is a electric cleaner you can spray for dirt and mud. Also when you heat the screw the shaft will begin to absorb the heat which means it will expand. So try to heat the screw not the shaft.
Hey Josh can you make a video on how to change motor bearings properly?
I once tried to do that and it was a disaster.
Omg😨 no way! What happened?
Sometimes I wish i could thumb up your video 2 times :) thanks sir !
Some say at Lumenier they have Thanos appling balance mud, just to be sure that every banch comes out perfectly balanced, as all things should be.
Fantastic, JB. About the air compressor, I used to clean my PC towers with it. LOL
Can you take saltwater damage/rust off?
Can you show us your skills on trying to take the C clips off?? which is the worst to take apart. E clips are the best/easiest to take off.. No heat require just a small flat head screw driver. :)
(Iron oxide) rust hey Joshua or anyone experienced with this sport/hobby could u recommend some tri-props for a factory mjx bugs3 Also if I upgrade my motors on it is it necessary to change esc as well
That really was helpful josh. Thank you buddy
great tip about the iron!
Good old bluetac... i use it as an extra pair of hands while soldering,, holds fc, esc,, xt60 or whatever..
Me too, been doing that for years.
Thank you Joshua! 🙏
This exact thing happened to me yesterday. My motors were covered with this metallic dust stuck to the magnets that would not go away.
to reassemble gently insert a long screw through the base of the stator (same thread as retaining screw) and screw it into the bell so the bell is just above the stator.
then holding the screw in one hand and bell in the other with the drones arm between your palms slow navigate the bell back on.
You are the best sensei 🙈
Does anyone have an advice for me? I have an EMAX RS2205 S motor, I removed the screw but I'm not able to remove the bell. I can turn the motor, I can hear the scratching but I can't pull the bell off. I thought about using WD40 to make it maybe loose... my last landing was more or less on sandy ground. The motor is pretty new so I do not want to ruin it while trying to get the bell off. Does someone have a trick how I can get it off without ruin it?
All other motors disassembled super easy. Just this one motor... :(
Perfect timing JB, the right video at the right time :) And as always a pleasure to watch.
Since the screw threads into the bell you can use the screw to help setup a push + pull when you have one stuck. I put the screw half way in and press upwards from the bottom while pulling upwards from the top. After you break it free once you can remove the screw again and pull off with normal amount of force.