Howdy - just got the Motion Pro Chain Tool - its a sweet unit - I figured Im saving the $99 cost by doing my chain job R & R myself. This tool is so precise & beefy it'll last my lifetime. On the Rivet Pin Flare spec I read elsewhere one should measure the master link pin diameter with caliper in MM, then flare to .5 to .7mm OVER the original pin diameter. That seems more valid vs comparing to the other factory placed pins, as they're hammer peened on, a different method. Each chain manufacturer has a "Master Link Flare Spec" chart you can consult. For RK chains, what I wrote is their general spec for a 525 X-ring Chain. I had a failed attempt to use a cheap chinese Clip Style Master Link on a Niche brand chain. This X-ring chain looks to be solid quality but the Clip Master Link was NOT confidence inspiring. After studying numerous videos, Im coming to the conclusion that a properly performed Rivet Link is the ONLY way a street bike should roll. Too much is at stake safety wise !
The Promotion tool is on my list. They make great products. Yes all chain manufacturers have a rivet flare spec. So it's best to follow that. You're right I wouldn't trust a clip style ML on a big bike.
@@TheBeardedGrump Yes the Clip Style Master Link appears to be for mainly MX Dirt bike guys who change gearing frequently. For us Road / ADV / V-Strom - Versys - KTM guys, it's not necessary & asking for trouble. What bugged me is this Niche brand chain looks SO darn good & solid BUT they offer NO Rivet Link option + NO Clip Style Master Links sold separately - you've got 1 shot to get the El cheapo Clip in place & once it pops off DNF - it'll be SO bent as to be unusable. That's absolutely crazy to me ! Sorry to vent on your time but I shoulda just paid up the $65 more for the RK chain at $105 versus Niche at $40. I still have 5 days to return to Amazon for a refund.
@@psalm2forliberty577 we all try to save money wherever we can but sometimes the saying you get what you pay for is true. I'm glad you got it straightened out and that's good to hear that you can return the Niche one
Been using a clip style master link the last few chains with good luck, but I know many prefer rivet. I'm sure this will be helpful for many! See you soon. - Matt
I've always had good luck with clip style master links but I don't know that I would trust one on a bike with this much power. I think rivet style is recommended on large displacement bikes. See you in a few days. 👊
Thanks. Just about all 525 chains come with rivet style master links. I've never had a problem with clip style master links but I have never used one on a large displacement bike.
@@TheBeardedGrump hopefully I have better luck with my chain breaker/rivet tool! Also the larger displacement was the reason for purchasing the tool! 👍
Another great video brother. I have always had good luck with the Harbor Freight Chain breaker tool myself. For $16.00 today you can't beat it. I have changed over the years at least five different bikes chains with it and never had a problem out of it. It will probably break on my ass when I need it the most on a trail somewhere though because I'm a cheep ass lol
The tool I used in the video does ok if you need to break a chain. It sucks at flaring out the rivets on the new master link. I'm with you on that. If I need something to work that's when it will fail 😂
The best way I can describe them is that they are a knock off of TKC 80s. They were on the bike when I bought it. The front tire is pretty decent but the rear pretty much sucks. I'll be replacing them with Motoz before too much longer.
You're not even using the tool correctly to flare the pins. You should actually tighten down the outer sleeve to cover the rivet. And then you tighten the actual push pin.
Howdy - just got the Motion Pro Chain Tool - its a sweet unit - I figured Im saving the $99 cost by doing my chain job R & R myself.
This tool is so precise & beefy it'll last my lifetime.
On the Rivet Pin Flare spec I read elsewhere one should measure the master link pin diameter with caliper in MM, then flare to .5 to .7mm OVER the original pin diameter.
That seems more valid vs comparing to the other factory placed pins, as they're hammer peened on, a different method.
Each chain manufacturer has a "Master Link Flare Spec" chart you can consult.
For RK chains, what I wrote is their general spec for a 525 X-ring Chain.
I had a failed attempt to use a cheap chinese Clip Style Master Link on a Niche brand chain.
This X-ring chain looks to be solid quality but the Clip Master Link was NOT confidence inspiring.
After studying numerous videos, Im coming to the conclusion that a properly performed Rivet Link is the ONLY way a street bike should roll.
Too much is at stake safety wise !
The Promotion tool is on my list. They make great products. Yes all chain manufacturers have a rivet flare spec. So it's best to follow that. You're right I wouldn't trust a clip style ML on a big bike.
@@TheBeardedGrump
Yes the Clip Style Master Link appears to be for mainly MX Dirt bike guys who change gearing frequently.
For us Road / ADV / V-Strom - Versys - KTM guys, it's not necessary & asking for trouble.
What bugged me is this Niche brand chain looks SO darn good & solid BUT they offer NO Rivet Link option + NO Clip Style Master Links sold separately - you've got 1 shot to get the El cheapo Clip in place & once it pops off DNF - it'll be SO bent as to be unusable.
That's absolutely crazy to me !
Sorry to vent on your time but I shoulda just paid up the $65 more for the RK chain at $105 versus Niche at $40.
I still have 5 days to return to Amazon for a refund.
@@psalm2forliberty577 we all try to save money wherever we can but sometimes the saying you get what you pay for is true. I'm glad you got it straightened out and that's good to hear that you can return the Niche one
Good video!
Thanks. 👊
Been using a clip style master link the last few chains with good luck, but I know many prefer rivet. I'm sure this will be helpful for many! See you soon. - Matt
I've always had good luck with clip style master links but I don't know that I would trust one on a bike with this much power. I think rivet style is recommended on large displacement bikes. See you in a few days. 👊
Thanks man 👍
No problem. Thanks for watching 👊
Great video! Super helpful.
Thanks! 👊
Nice job! See you at the PAR!!!
Thanks
Good video, I plan to use the rivet style chains on the AT, never had any issues with the clip style, but feel the rivet style would be safer.
Thanks. Just about all 525 chains come with rivet style master links. I've never had a problem with clip style master links but I have never used one on a large displacement bike.
@@TheBeardedGrump hopefully I have better luck with my chain breaker/rivet tool! Also the larger displacement was the reason for purchasing the tool! 👍
Another great video brother. I have always had good luck with the Harbor Freight Chain breaker tool myself. For $16.00 today you can't beat it. I have changed over the years at least five different bikes chains with it and never had a problem out of it. It will probably break on my ass when I need it the most on a trail somewhere though because I'm a cheep ass lol
The tool I used in the video does ok if you need to break a chain. It sucks at flaring out the rivets on the new master link. I'm with you on that. If I need something to work that's when it will fail 😂
Good video on chain replacement.
Thanks Doc. I hope that you have been doing well. 👊
Nice 👍🏻
Thanks. 👊
I was hoping u did a video of this
I thought it might help someone. Just don't buy a cheap chain tool because they suck. I have a link for a good one in the description.
What are those tires? Never heard of V-Grip
The best way I can describe them is that they are a knock off of TKC 80s. They were on the bike when I bought it. The front tire is pretty decent but the rear pretty much sucks. I'll be replacing them with Motoz before too much longer.
Just what kind of tool was that again??? 😂
GOOD VID - I have the shitty tool too LOL 🙂
Thanks. That shitty tool went into the trash 😂
You're not even using the tool correctly to flare the pins. You should actually tighten down the outer sleeve to cover the rivet. And then you tighten the actual push pin.
That tool had seen its better days before this video. It's a cheap POS tool so no matter how you used it it didn't work.