5 Tips for Using a Chain Breaker & Rivet Tool
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2022
- I share 5 tips on how to use a motorcycle chain breaker and rivet tool.
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skip to 7 minutes to see the tool!!! keep videos simple!
He's giving tips and tricks...
I enjoyed the video, everyone is always in too much of a hurry, slow down and enjoy, thanks for the video
I use the angle grinder as well, but just chop straight through the chain, messy but effective.
Thanks for watching! Certainly a way to do it. Bit higher risk of a broken disk fragment flying around, but in steady hands it can work.
I’ve never done this before I always used a masterlink with a clip, I just ordered this tool because my new chain came with the rivet link, thanks for the video
Thanks for watching. I've used clip style master link in the past also without issue. Some reports out there in the Internet of clips coming off but I've never experienced and would guess it's rare for those properly installed on street bikes.
Good video, I would probably use the two pressure plates to push both sides of the link simultaneously before proceeding with riveting, this way you don't have to worry about pushing unevenly one side more than the other
Thanks for watching and commenting. I shared my opinion on that in an earlier reply here. In short, not an issue. I always appreciate the discourse though.
@@UrbanMonkTV no worries. "Simple" videos like this one are helpful to many people 😉
Best chain breakdown I’ve watched, thank you for all the great info. Waiting on my chain and sprocket kit to arrive and this helped a ton.
Thanks for watching! Appreciate your comment.
I was having so much trouble with the tool getting the plate to press on with what they tell you to do. It just kept spinning cause there was nothing to grab into the holes on the press plate. Using your method was AWESOME! Worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Many thanks for this video. I have two sets of the same cheap chain breaker/riveters and I don't do them enough to remember how to use it! I did a 520 conversion on my 600RR and low and behold, exact same rivet sizes to the 10th of a mm. I ended up with 5.72 after the squish and I found later that you ended up at 5.73 :) Anyway, you made installing the chain a 5 minute job and because of the squish I know it's exact.
Thanks for watching! Enjoy the ride!
Great video! I have just got this exact same tool and your input has assisted immensely! 👍🏻
Thanks for watching! As others have pointed out, there's more than one way to approach this job and the use of this tool. Glad my way was helpful to you.
You are a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks for watching!
ahh, it's great to see another Urban Monk TV video. 👍👍
PPFL was definitely epic.
Thanks! Glad to be back. Yes, I miss life on the road. Been getting the itch to go out again, but I'm committed to staying focused on family for another year before going out for that long again. I may do a shorter ride up the coast though.
Thanks for the video! I now have the knowledge to do this important maintenance item with confidence. I just received my new Motion Pro PBR chain tool to install a Renold chain on my '73 Norton 750 Commando. It is also my 70th birthday, part of which I will spend in my heated shop!
Oh Wow! You've got a special machine there! Enjoy! Thanks for watching.
Fantastic to see you back, missed your videos buddy. Hope you and family are well
Thanks! Yes, everyone good and healthy here. All we ask for.
Great video. Loads of help. Cheers Man
Thanks for watching!
Going to change the chain and sprockets on my 25yo Ducati. Bought the chain tool and searched for a "how to". Low and behold there is Urban front and center! Always great stuff.
Oh great! One doesn't get much of a feel for how RUclips is placing videos for others. I always assumed if I came up in searches on my computer it's because the cookies on my computer are dictating. Wonderful to hear from another "computer" how I'm doing. Thanks for that!
Great vid, super helpful. Thanks for posting 🫡
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for a great video, I’ve fitted a new chain but was struggling with the flare. I’ll use your info in the morning to finish the job 👍👏👏
Thanks for watching!
That was awesome brother. Thanks so much!
Thanks for watching!
Handy video! Thanks for sharing. I have the same tool. Your instructions helped me think my way through it haha
Thanks for watching!
Such a badass! Thanks for the thourough walk through!
Thanks for watching!
Best video on youtube! Thank you so much!!!
Thank you for watching!!!
PERFECT VIDEO . Thank You .
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant. Thank you sir!
Thanks for watching!
hey! nice to see you back.
Good to be back! Thanks!
Informative video, thank you. I have a gen2 V650, but everything looks the same, that "doodad" is on mine too and it now makes sense that going from the 15 tooth to a 16-tooth front sprocket why the speedometer now is 100% correct from the 4-5 mph error it was off before. I'm going to be doing a trip similar to yours and changing out the countershaft lowered my cruise 500 rpm's at 75 mph. the bike still has plenty of low-end torque for getting under way. I did use the impact, but the bike was in neutral and rear brake applied. Final tightening was using the torque wrench from about 60 ft lbs. to the 83 ft lbs. that is required.
I was going to replace the chain before I left on my trip but the bike only has 13,000 miles and has always had good chain maintenance so I think I will hold off replacing until I get back from the trip to the east coast and back to AZ. then I'll have to watch your video on replacing chain and sprockets 🤣 Take care - Dave
Sounds like you are using good logic IMO (not that my opinion matters - It's your bike right?). Enjoy your trip! Jealous. Wish I could get away for another epic ride right now, but soon enough.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
If I may add a 6th tip, if you grind off the master link like that, you can use the new link to couple the last of the old chain to the first of the new chain, and pull the new chain in easy and fast.
Thanks for throwing that good idea in here for the benefit of others! Would make things easy, especially if one is not replacing the front sprocket along with the chain. Even then, one replace the sprocket before pulling chain through.
Alas I want to use the old chain to rapidly measure /fit the new chain - and I'm replacing 2 x sprockets too, but I like the idea!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the professional and easy to understand video. Change my rivet chain this weekend will be much easier 😊
Thanks for watching! Hope your chain change went well.
I bought this one off China/amazon. Worked great!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much! I screwed this all the up the first time I used my rivet tool. I mean it went on there but the master link broke 1000 miles in. I got a new chain and sprockets (yes, it damaged the rear sprocket coming off and maybe the front and they were new too. Cost me $200 and a AAA tow and some time. In hindsight, the creaking I thought on starting sometimes that I assumed was the clutch was probably the master link. So now I got the new sprockets and chain on and this time I measured the width of the link after squeezing it together. And then the heads of the rivets. And I'll be watching carefully. The chain nicked the case because I was going 80mph on the interstate but it did not crack the cases and I was very lucky it didn't.
A little recurring luck is a welcome thing in a motorcyclists life. :) Glad you didn't crack the case.
Well done Sir ;-) Greatings from Germany !
Thank you for watching! Hello from Los Angeles!
Ironically I was looking for an instructional video on how to use the chain tool…..on my ‘06 DL1000! Thanks!
Wow! Meant to be! Thanks for watching!
Ironically?
Thank you 😁
Thank you for watching!
great tips. I am about to do my 1st chain change after 41.000 kms. I was getting a weird noise from the chain and I noticed that I have inconsistent slack as in if I spin the wheel, every now and then it gets pretty tight. Upon inspecting the front sprocket I noticed it's pretty bad with seesaw thinnend teeth. But yeah, I was already planning to keep the bike on the ground and use a breaker bar, tnx for confirming that it works :) I already, partially broke one of the pins, just to test my tool (I don't have an angle grinder) and it worked pretty easily but I bought an animal of a chain tool, some german stuff that weighs over 400 grams (almost 1 pound :)) ) Anyhoo, tommorow I need to buy a 32 mm socket and proceed to finish the job.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I make my repair videos for that specific reason, to help others with their projects. So your comment makes me feel great. I sincerely appreciate it.
I am sorry but I guess I will have to look for another video that explains more of how to use the riveting tool. I was expecting to understand what each piece of the tool does including the spring since I don't know for what or why the spring is there for. It would have helped me if you had shown which piece of the tool you used, for example, I did fully understand the anvil you used because you showed it to the camera but didn't show which riveting tool you used and how you inserted it into the bolt on the handle, and so on... Since it will be a first for me to do a chain change, I need more understanding of which pieces do what and when to use them.
Thanks for watching. I created this video to be a "tips" video for someone who is already using the tool. Your comment is well taken though and I may soon create a video like the one you describe.
Great video!! I've always been a firm believer is rivet links versus master links (the clips always seem to find a way to fling off into space). The only problem is that I have never been able to find rivet links _anywhere._ I'm thinking that they're not made for any of the chains I run (#415H, #35, and 8 speed).
That could be a tall order. Would this fit? www.ebay.com/itm/314558057995?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=f8IGlM0eTuC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=4utYrWQfQGO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi! thank you for the videos! Why you dont use de press plate (thar is on the kit)? Regards from Portugal!
Thanks for watching. I simply don't see the need for it.
I just use a wood to block the rear wheel and put the bike in neutral when using impact gun to loose the sprocket nut, works quite well. I am replacing the chain and both sprockets so I don't care any damage to those parts. Nice tip on that rivet tool though, helped me a lot when I reinstall the master link!
Thanks for watching! I'm glad to hear you put the transmission in neutral before using the impact wrench, as there are gears on the counter shaft and drive shaft that are engaged with each other in that state. Some of the forces of the impact wrench are experienced between their tooth surfaces, but it seems you are doing everything you can to keep those forces focused at the friction of the nut and nut threads. Appreciate your comments.
Yeah definitely not want to mess up the gears in my transmission :)
Hey UB.
Glad you're back. Any upcoming rides?
Thanks! Yes, but not immediately. I have some planned travel with family that needs doing first. I do have plans to do a ride up the West Coast since that wasn't covered in my PPFL series.
Its crazy, the tusk tool came with no instruction sheet. That's fucking bullshit.
Even your video was made for someone familiar with the tool. I need to find the "for dummies" version. Thanks.
Thanks for watching. Maybe I'll do another video on this for absolute beginners. Thanks for the idea.
@Urban Monk TV I asked 3d cycle parts why the Tusk tool didn't come with any instructions. They replied "we only sell the tool and called me passive agressive. Lol very cocky. (Maybe bc I ended the message with "thanks for the wasted time".) Thanks for posting these great vids.
Wouldn't it be easier if the chain was a bit looser when your taking off the link? This is all very interesting to me and a bit of a pain in the ass because I have had 2 dozen bikes from 70's to 750's and never lost a master link with the clip ever.
If a person has proper slack in the chain there's no need to loosen to remove an old chain. Assumption is a person is replacing a worn and this relatively loose chain. I agree with you, I have never lost a master link clip either, when I've used them. Thanks for watching!
Where to buy just rivets for this tool? There is no master link aviable for my chain, which i can press..
First, thanks for watching. Rivet-style master links are specific alloy at the end of the rivet. They're more malleable so you can flare them. The other standard rivets won't flare easily, if at all. You'll most likely break the tool. I have found master links for sale for chains I've used on eBay. Try there.
Question. It took me several flares to get where I'm going I think. The permanent rivets on the chain are between 4.40 and 4.51mm. My rivets now are up to 4.48mm after flaring several times. I don't think I should go any bigger because they look great and I don't want one to crack. Does this sound reasonable? I should have measured the unflared rivet. I didn't understand this until after I watched your video but I reasoned that if my flared rivets were similar to the diameter of the permanent rivets and the flares looked OK it was probably OK. I may go back and measure the shafts on the old master link that broke. I think what happened before is one did crack and it put sideways force and the other one and that rivet shaft eventually snapped. The master link was actually on top of the engine after the chain flew off on the interstate and one shaft looked close to stock length but completely smooth with zero flare and the other was broken off short. That's why I think the one flare broke off and the other side of the link snapped at the shaft. But 112hp through the link at an angle not good.
First, thanks for watching. Second, I don't give advice on UMTV, only share my experiences and "how I do things." Everyone is on their own journey here. That said, I agree you should measure the master rivets before and after flaring. The material makeup of the master link rivets is different than that of the other rivets. What matters most is the change from un-flared to flared on the master link rivets. I've always gone by the 0.4-0.5mm flare rule, though do what you think is best. Hope this helps.
@@UrbanMonkTV I appreciate that bit of wisdom. I just measured again and there is more like .3mm difference but I flared multiple times and the center of my flare bit is not adjustable in and out like yours is. If I go any more I think I'm risking cracking it. I guess I'll ride around and check it several times. I still think if I had checked it when I heard the creaking noise before I would have caught it before it fell off.
When flaring I have to change the anvil right ? I have to use the smaller instead of the one the fits.
For most motorcycle chains (assuming that's your situation) the anvil with the recess that is 6mm in diameter would be the right choice. As for the "rivet forming pin" use the p8n with the convex (dome-shaped) face on it. The other three pins are simply for pushing out link pins various sized chains. It should be noted there are tools in these kits for bicycle chains also. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV thank you that help me a lot ! So far my chain hold and looks good . I will be watching your video everytime I change my chain just to make sure 😂😂
Whats is the tools exacly ad the price?
Thanks!!
$35 but you can get 10% with code "UMTV" at thealphamoto.com/products/motorcycle-cam-drive-chain-breaker-riveter-rivet-riveting-cutter-tool?_pos=1&_sid=8d6409022&_ss=r&ref=pky5lw8ts7yu Thanks for watching!
any concerns of tweaking the plate that way ?
Honestly no. I guess I'll hang my hat on my record of regularly getting over 20k miles with these chains using my approach. I don't have any other empirical evidence to reference in my support.
Hi urban. Good to see you back. And another great video with more than enough information for the wood be motorcycle/ mechanic like myself to give that particular job a go. Just one question which I meant to ask regarding the big tour you just completed,,,. I did a big tour of Europe on my last bike,, a Kawasaki zzr 1400. And found having a cruise control on that bike made the long journey's a lot easier on the right hand wrist . I never heard you mentioned that you had one. But even if you didn't,, do you know of one that would fit the v strom. I would think it would have to work in conjunction with the hand protector. ? Thanks for any info on this. Rob .
Thank Rob! Sounds like you understand the special kind of peace a long motorcycle journey can give. I have an inexpensive throttle lock plus a "palm paddle" / "wrist saver" on my Strom. I talk about in one of the videos. I'll look for it and provide a link. You're correct, the throttle lock solution has to work with the hand guards. Thanks for watching!
Around 7:43 I talk about it here. ruclips.net/video/r6IbhQL09Bo/видео.html
Oh yes ,,, now you mention it, I remember now. Iv seen people using that type of device. Might just give it a go. Thanks.
Ive replaced chain on my Vstrom 17 times I’ve never ground the pins. Motion Pro chain breaker easily pushes the pins through
I suspect the Motion Pro unit is stronger than these inexpensive eBay types. Thanks for watching!
Is there a reason why you don't use the flat parts for the tool to push the master link plate down in 1 go rather than doing it for the 2 pins seprately?
Thanks for watching! I just don't find it necessary as there's no resistance at all on that master plate. Pushing one side one moves the other perfectly squarely. Frankly the master plate wants to return "out" a fraction of a mm when I remove the tool from the elastic expansion force of the o-rings.
@@UrbanMonkTV I see. Thanks for the tips!
I just used the exact same tool earlier today to change from a standard clip master link that was sticking, the riviting tool to flare the link and the anvil for it got completely deformed by the chain. Apparently the chain link is a lot harder than the tool, so the riviting tool and anvil got litteraly shaped into the master link. Also after reshaping the tool and hardening it, the threads on the smaller screw(the one with the hole in for the lever) broke. I only managed to squeeze the link from 5mm to 5,25mm.
For me the tool is useless, mabye i have to make a new screw and riveting tool in a steel that can be propperly hardend and it could work.
What type of master link were you using? The regular links and clip-style master links have a different metallurgy to their pins whereas a rivet-style master link has pins that are specifically designed to be flared. In short, the metal at the tip of the pins is softer and more malleable on those master links. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV I had the samme issue sadly. Tried using it on a standard D.I.D 530 vx3 chain
I crank with all my force when riveting. And barely get 5.2mm. I need to use extension to finally get it to 5.6mm.
They do require a good deal of torque and I suppose that's a good thing, but like in mentioned in the video, I once cranked it so much that I bent the tool. The tool in this video is my second.
Bent my chain breaker pin yesterday, could’ve done with watching this first 😂
The good news is, these tools are relatively inexpensive. Thanks for watching!
Hi mate, what's the spring for?
It goes around the pin before inserting into the tool. Helps it retract when loosened. Thanks for watching!
That's it, many thanks.
You can still put the bike up on the rear stand first and you can lock the chain against the rear sprocket by jamming a rag or something in between.
Yes, I have friends and acquaintances who've done it that way with success.
Angle grinders or die grinders work well, used them for years, if your removing a worn out chain, just cut it off completely, it’s going in the trash anyway.
Cutting the new chain to length is just a simple then use a quick connect link to fix....no need to rivet anything, plus it can be removed easily for cleaning and re greasing...
Thanks for watching.
pretty sure that tool kid has a plate so you press on both at same time
It does but I haven't found it necessary. Thanks for watching!
Don't buy the junk chain breaker if you have a 530 pithch chain. The tool will break before the chain even if you grind off the rivets. It might be okay for smaller chains. Get a Kellerman tool for the best results.
Thanks for watching.
Agreed, Greg! Those cheap chain breaker kits are next to WORTHLESS. They might work on a bicycle chain, not on a decent motorcycle chain. The push rods bend or break. The threads in the frames are cut poorly and strip out. All are made with poor quality, Chinese tool (?ha!) steel. Have bought a few on Amazon, and every one eventually failed after one or two uses! A GOOD, American made, chain breaker kit will cost at LEAST $300+. I don't swap chains that often to justify that cost; and have a shop rivet on street bike chains. Jmo. 👍
Hi, you only need to push one pin out :P
Thanks for watching.
Why not just remove the chain with a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder? It's going in the garbage anyway, right? Thanks for this video, btw. This'll be helpful.
Thanks for watching.
Could be done that way but there could be a higher risks of broken grinder disk as the link halves could swivel and pinch the grinder disk. I prefer my more delicate approach, but I don't disagree your suggestion would work. Just a question of risk I suppose.
If you've ground the rivets can't you just flick the plate off with a screwdriver??
Not usually as the rivet is still expanded within. Thanks for watching.
I have the motion pro one, yours looks better quality
Thanks for watching!
Really? Just grind off the rivet flush and pop the link off with a big screwdriver in under 10 seconds!
That's another way to do it. Thanks for watching.
Why not just use the angle grinder to cut the chain off in the first place?
That's an option depending on the result one is aiming for and tolerance for risks associated with using angle grinder at all (i.e. broken grinding disk).
Cranking and cranking, but no flare???????
I flare beginning at 11:50. Thanks for watching.
@@UrbanMonkTV no I meant I’ve been cranking and cranking and it won’t flare at all. Can’t figure out what’s wrong? only guess is a defective tool.
@@user-hu2pp9ic9t The metallurgy in the rivet type master links is very specific. Softer at the tip/flare point. Are you using a link that was intended to be a master link?
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks!yeah I got a 525 chain for a super sport. Must’ve watched 20 videos like this. Do exactly what you guys doing in the video have it set up exactly the right way and no flare at all. Saw one other guy said he needed the better quality riveter tool to handle the 525s. But I would think I would at least get some flare by cranking that hard???
It is my first time ever doing it though, so maybe I’m doing something wrong.
wait what ..your getting a new chain ..cut it off
I couldn't recommend that as someone will get a jammed cutting disk or saw blade and hurt themselves. But I totally can see someone doing that successfully.
@@UrbanMonkTV I got a brand new D 2down 3,up... yea your right , it will snag ..bolt cutters,. .thanks for all your help on all the other stuff too.
@@TheCthtoNicfLy Thanks for watching!
With all my respect, this is not a master of anything, the tool is disposable to say the least, it is soft iron for a high displacement motorcycle is taking risks, its trick to insert the sheet metal with two holes, it needs a lot of light to see or it could be riveted, and if the chain is for pulling, it is simple, it is cut and that's it, there is no need to review or extract pins with that toy riveter which I do not recommend to anyone, for the same money a professional mechanic will do it for me with a professional riveter, still thanks for the video, good contribution to know how not to
that terribly worn sprocket,,,
Yes, I had just come off a long cross country trip coast to coast and back again. You can watch the entire trip here They all needed replacing. Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/p/PL2518uxZnBT0239YgcJT3paUMf05VJNp2&si=BRBbKKJHCnSQ_sDD
Your using the tool wrong that’s why your bending links
I haven't bent links; I bent the tool. That's why I changed to this method. Much easier on the tool.
Excellent video on how not to press a link on. Make sure you’re not teaching anyone these steps.
I appreciate your comment even if I don't share your opinion. I've put many tens of thousands of miles on my chains without incident. I am always open to suggestions and criticism. You've provided me with the latter. Perhaps you might offer the former.
@@UrbanMonkTV I couldn’t watch the entire clip but never EVER press a link on the rear sprocket. Doesn’t matter how many years you’ve been doing it that way, it’s never good. Only safe to be used to hold the chain till you can put the link on there. Then rotate your chain off the sprocket to press.
Think of your audience that may be using aluminum rear sprockets and now cracked a sprocket tooth unknowingly. This video could potentially cause a nasty wreck or worse.
@@jimmcconville624 Thanks. That's fair and I hadn't thought of that honestly. Your logic makes sense to me.
@@UrbanMonkTV not trying to be a jerk or know it all. But those sprocket teeth are delicate and something you don’t want to be putting necessary pressure on. I do the join on them, but never press the plate on the teeth.
@@jimmcconville624 All good. I appreciate the opportunity to think about it. As I think about it further though, wouldn't the inner bushing always be a larger dimension than the thickness of the sprocket (by design)? Is it incorrect to say the tool could not press the plates together any closer than the dimension of those bushings (around which the roller spins).
Far too much waffle, just get on with it….
A dremel tool works great!
Sure! One could argue a Dremel is just a small angle grinder. Thanks for watching.
@@UrbanMonkTV it is, I always used a dremel for this job, with little grinding dics, and it works great.
What’s wrong with putting the bike in gear?
Thanks for watching. When I said that I was speaking to the use of an impact wrench. If in gear, the forces from impact wrench go into the transmission gears, which I don't recommend.
@@UrbanMonkTV if undoing by hand would putting in gear be particularly dangerous? Alternatively if I keep the wheels to the ground and tie down both the brakes, would that be better?
How risky is using the in gear method for undoing and torquing the front sprocket but anyway?
@@funonthebun888 That's fine if loosening by hand tools. However I still recommend applying brakes and minimizing the forces going into transmission. Not saying damage is certain, just better safe than sorry.
Thanks.
Follow question, when braking the old chain, is trying to push out the pin without grinding off the river definitely going to be impossible with a cheap chain tool? Do I absolutely have to grind off the river first?
What if I choose to brake the chain on the master link, would that be easier?
@@funonthebun888 I would be easier on the master link. In fact, I would not try to "break" it at any other link. Those pins are just too hard.