You remember to buy spares next time, grab a pair of calipers and tighten the plate small part turns till the width measure same on factory links and master link, but keeping it slightly looser if anything to prevent binds. Then rivet on using same slow turn and measure in between
Great video. I use digital calipers and do 6 plus checks after small bumps as well. I do the same thing with my rivet measuring the pin size compared to the others. Usually try to be within .05-.1 mm.
Thanks for sharing......Couldn't you have just pushed the first new link pins back out a little bit using the pin extraction tool to give the correct side plate spacing and once at the correct distance then rivet it in place? I'm surprised new joining link pins don't have a shoulder on them to prevent this type of thing happening.
Over 90% of master links are done improperly. Go check yours now. Does it rotate freely like the other links? Does the rivet you mushroomed have any splits? If you measure the thickness of the master link it will almost always be different from the other links, don't even try to make them equal or you will be changing the master link. You can't just go to cycle gear or anywhere else and get a master link. They have to be ordered, no one stocks them, because they cost about ten bucks and they know the mechanics will use them up if they order a lot. You get one link with a new chain, however it fits the first time he tightens it, that is it. No changes no going back, and if he did admit it needs redone, your bike would be down for a week while they reorder the link.
Hey man just a quick question. I riveted my chain for the first time, I got the mast link with .2mm of the rest of the links.. but i mushroomed the links too much. On of the rivets has a tiny slit in it but its mushrooms more than the normal rivets. Is this still sage to use? The split is very small
@@gooklogander7 replace it if possible. Cracks, unfortunately, significantly compromise the integrity of the metal and can easily spread. And you do not want your pin to break off...
Kinda judgmental stating 90% are done wrong…. How the f..k would you know? You go from house to house with a set of calibers? LMFAO A lot of free entertainment on RUclips
Take 1mm steel wire, make two u shapes, press first one arround pin oring manually, press second one using pliers (on the same pin but other side). If wire size is proper it will push back the link plate.
What now? Don't over think... All the manufactured mechanical products are designed to have some marginal errors. As long as all the links are binding right in sprocket tooth's it should be fine. It will loosen up as you ride. Anyway, some riders like it safe, some riders just like to ride. Good job over all.
Thank you. I spent all day changing my chain and sprocket for a trip down south to a street class at a track. My back is killing and I want to ride my bike and not have the darn chain fly off. Just one link is too tight. Job is way harder than expected. It’s got to be better than it was. Cb500 2018, probably original chain.
You can reuse master link just with rivet tool press link all way out and put back pin again later the plate......I think 1mm difference its fine important master link move freely if stuck its not good
How do you really know that it's done right? I read from DID that after riveting the pins should be 5mm in diameter and followed that. But my master is not as free as the other links.
Same here. 525 ZVMX riveted with the KM500R riveting tool. You press the plates together till the tool bottoms out (it has cutouts , so you can't even go too far. Them you flare the rivets until the tool head touches the chain. If you want to be extra careful just measure along the way. Mine said 5.7 - 6mm is good. Im at 5.85mm. The Link is slightly stiffer then the other ones. It's normal I'd say
boy, oh boy, you're counting words.... i mean ok, most watching this are overdoers, overthinkers, overtinkerers, but you're actually counting words...heh... i never heard one "right" in this video.
@@ivok9846 You've underthought this. I actually counted nothing. I have no idea how many times he said right. But I know it was way too many. You've overdone, overthought, overtinked nothing. You _have_ underheard though.
@@gregp103 haha, excellent, you made me laugh, everything is forgiven! oh yeah, slight correction: "overtinkered", as in tinkering, oh my language master and grammar specialist overlord with superb ear.
I grease the o rings liberally then move it around as I'm pressing it with each 1/4 turn of the handle on my "breaker" tool When it's measured the same distance as the others and it's not binding I squash the pin heads. Many tens of thousands of miles on chains I put on. It's not rocket science just because your life can depend on how well the job is done. Don't overthink it people
but the issue is precisely how (hard) you squish the pin heads, and, interestingly, one might use your 1/4 th of the turn method while rivetting/squishing...or 1/8th, if he wants to increase torquing resolution....
Hmmm . . . not much of a solution. Replace the botched up master link with a new one. Thanks for wasting my time.
I love how you show the good and the bad. This was EXTREMELY helpful brother. Thank you!
ronaldhotboy thanks man! :)
Was really hoping from reading your title that you had a fix for over tightened link. A new link is days away.
You remember to buy spares next time, grab a pair of calipers and tighten the plate small part turns till the width measure same on factory links and master link, but keeping it slightly looser if anything to prevent binds. Then rivet on using same slow turn and measure in between
I was expecting you to show how to save the situation without replacing the whole master link, especially if not riveted yet.
Great video. Very informative and nice close up footage and explanation. Subscribed!
Best regards
Thank you!
Great video. I use digital calipers and do 6 plus checks after small bumps as well. I do the same thing with my rivet measuring the pin size compared to the others. Usually try to be within .05-.1 mm.
Thanks for sharing......Couldn't you have just pushed the first new link pins back out a little bit using the pin extraction tool to give the correct side plate spacing and once at the correct distance then rivet it in place? I'm surprised new joining link pins don't have a shoulder on them to prevent this type of thing happening.
looks like he must have rivited the link on before checking the distance between plates.
The pin extraction tool presses against the opposite side plate, so it won't back the pin out until it has broken the rivet on the other side.
Over 90% of master links are done improperly. Go check yours now. Does it rotate freely like the other links? Does the rivet you mushroomed have any splits? If you measure the thickness of the master link it will almost always be different from the other links, don't even try to make them equal or you will be changing the master link. You can't just go to cycle gear or anywhere else and get a master link. They have to be ordered, no one stocks them, because they cost about ten bucks and they know the mechanics will use them up if they order a lot. You get one link with a new chain, however it fits the first time he tightens it, that is it. No changes no going back, and if he did admit it needs redone, your bike would be down for a week while they reorder the link.
Hey man just a quick question. I riveted my chain for the first time, I got the mast link with .2mm of the rest of the links.. but i mushroomed the links too much. On of the rivets has a tiny slit in it but its mushrooms more than the normal rivets. Is this still sage to use? The split is very small
@@gooklogander7 replace it if possible. Cracks, unfortunately, significantly compromise the integrity of the metal and can easily spread. And you do not want your pin to break off...
Kinda judgmental stating 90% are done wrong…. How the f..k would you know? You go from house to house with a set of calibers? LMFAO A lot of free entertainment on RUclips
@@andrewwilliamhorton789 *calipers. What would you estimate the proper percentage to be?
@@Irkin_Bollikans 89 PERCENT LOL…A lot of free entertainment on RUclips
Take 1mm steel wire, make two u shapes, press first one arround pin oring manually, press second one using pliers (on the same pin but other side). If wire size is proper it will push back the link plate.
What now?
Don't over think...
All the manufactured mechanical products are designed to have some marginal errors.
As long as all the links are binding right in sprocket tooth's it should be fine. It will loosen up as you ride.
Anyway, some riders like it safe, some riders just like to ride. Good job over all.
Thank you. I spent all day changing my chain and sprocket for a trip down south to a street class at a track. My back is killing and I want to ride my bike and not have the darn chain fly off. Just one link is too tight. Job is way harder than expected. It’s got to be better than it was. Cb500 2018, probably original chain.
You can reuse master link just with rivet tool press link all way out and put back pin again later the plate......I think 1mm difference its fine important master link move freely if stuck its not good
You forgot to mention to grease the pins ,the rubber orings,keep the grease from coming out so the link does not lock up
How do you really know that it's done right? I read from DID that after riveting the pins should be 5mm in diameter and followed that. But my master is not as free as the other links.
5mm split of the pin on master link?
Same here. 525 ZVMX riveted with the KM500R riveting tool. You press the plates together till the tool bottoms out (it has cutouts , so you can't even go too far. Them you flare the rivets until the tool head touches the chain. If you want to be extra careful just measure along the way. Mine said 5.7 - 6mm is good. Im at 5.85mm.
The Link is slightly stiffer then the other ones. It's normal I'd say
Are you going to make another video of you doing this job again because you forgot the the grease
Going live to fix
grease?
Jeez! Just tap the pins one by one with a smooth hammer, until the correct width is there... !!
People got ocd here😁
Why couldn't you just press the new pin out a hair ?
Right? right. Right? right, right. right? Right? right!
boy, oh boy, you're counting words....
i mean ok, most watching this are overdoers, overthinkers, overtinkerers, but you're actually counting words...heh...
i never heard one "right" in this video.
@@ivok9846 That is why you fail.
@@ivok9846 You've underthought this. I actually counted nothing. I have no idea how many times he said right. But I know it was way too many.
You've overdone, overthought, overtinked nothing. You _have_ underheard though.
@@gregp103 haha, excellent, you made me laugh, everything is forgiven!
oh yeah, slight correction: "overtinkered", as in tinkering, oh my language master and grammar specialist overlord with superb ear.
@@ivok9846 overtinked is funnier.
Got the same master chain link. Is this is a street safe link? right got it for my supermoto to change out my sprocket on stock chain.
basically right, right? Basically.
You not riding no more??? What happened to you man???
What would you say is the point of too much? I got one right now that’s .2-.3 too tight
notification squad
YEAH!! LOL. I never got your notification. SMH
@@yourfastlife 😂😂😂😂
@@Michael-gh1tj This website is for the dogs now. SMH
I grease the o rings liberally then move it around as I'm pressing it with each 1/4 turn of the handle on my "breaker" tool
When it's measured the same distance as the others and it's not binding I squash the pin heads.
Many tens of thousands of miles on chains I put on. It's not rocket science just because your life can depend on how well the job is done. Don't overthink it people
but the issue is precisely how (hard) you squish the pin heads, and, interestingly, one might use your 1/4 th of the turn method while rivetting/squishing...or 1/8th, if he wants to increase torquing resolution....
So to fix it you just start again with another link?