That tool is a copy of a classic Pacific Coast Cycle design dating back to the 1970s or older. It comes with more adapters too. There's no reason such a tool should be expensive and that one is priced fairly.
This tool was originally designed to punch the pin out without the need for grinding anything. If you're replacing the chain and have a grinder, just cut the chain and toss it away leaving the chain breaker in the box.
Ha, that's kinda what I'm thinking each time I see guys grinding the links flush to use their removal tool. I take that same grinder and instead of grinding, I just cut the damn chain off. Bam. Done. Use that tool to rivet your new master link. No need to use as part of a 2-step chain removal process.
The press pin needs to be flush or slightly recessed inside of the alignment bolt, first snug the large alignment bolt against the chain plate then turn the drive bolt to push the chain's pin out. Starting with the tool's drive pin extended outside of the alignment bolt will greatly increase the chance of breaking the tip.
I have this tool, and you are using it incorrectly to flare the pin. Your arivett pin should be recessed 2 mm into the larger Bolt before you begin. The larger bolt should be screwed fingertight, flush against the chain side plate, so that the chain pin is recessed into the hole in the larger Bolt. If you assemble it as you have shown, with the rivet pin protruding from the larger bolt, this will lead to bent or broken rivet pin, or non-consentric flare.
Listen to @TurboDV8 ! I went thru a couple of these cheap pieces of junk. No instruction and no clear video on YT. Is the spring necessary to put inside with the riveter?
I've had that same tool. You're going to get about two master link presses out of it and then the press will bend and not work. Get the motion-pro for $110
I wish I had seen this video before I destroyed 2 pins on my Nielsen chain tool! 🤦🏼♂️ you live and learn huh! Nice video and made me more confident riveting my master link when the replacement comes! I also wish I had thought of putting the master on the rear sprocket to keep it secured!!
I read really bad reviews on this kit. But I see you made it work easily. I guess with any project we should just take our time be patient and be precise. I’m going to order this kit now.
I saw the bad reviews but after seeing this I’m ordering one, it makes you wonder if some the reviewers are 1) using the wrong pin for the rivet or 2) they don’t have the pin perfectly lined up or 3) they are just plain ham fisted 😀
I did order one & as soon as I went to use it, the quality was so bad the threads were jumping & I couldn’t tighten it ….so I sent it back 🤣…….then I went to Halfords & bought a Chain Monkey chain tool & it was brilliant 👍🏼
Mine didn't do so well. The pin to push the link out bent, but did do the job, then the rivet punch also bent, and I had to find a ball bearing (the one from the passenger footpeg retaining mechanism was just right) and stop it pressing into the tool by using the previously bent push pin to do the riveting. There was also a casting mark on mine which prevented the anvil sitting square in the tool, I didn't see this until the job was finished, it may have been responsible for all the bent pins and punches. All this was on my Honda VFR800 which has a 530 chain. If I had to do the job again I'd buy another but grind that casting mark out, it's still cheaper than paying a dealer to do the job.
The anvil didn't fit my 520 chain, the holes were too close together. I was able to work around this issue, and then the tool broke while staking the rivet. I bought the tool because the chain I ordered, that was supposed to come with a removable link, came with the rivet type. I'm waiting for a return ticket from Amazon. Luckily I didn't have to remove a staked chain.
Great video mate. Just purchased the same unit and will hopefully be using it over the weekend. It's always good to the unit In action before committing to it. Your video was very done and thank you. 👍
i bought the same. three links and it’s bent. 1st link to take chain off (mushroom), then took 2 links to adjust new chain length. 3rd time before the rivet was out the punch bent. also it’s not very plum the punch doesn’t come out dead center.
Nice video..I'm cheap like you..same Walmart grinder was like 20 bucks.. invaluable for it's usefulness and my chain tool was branded OMT but looks exactly the same.. going to pop the chain and use it to press the master together and I have a clip
I am thinking about buying a new motorcycle and changing the rear spocket as soon as I can. I won't need a new chain,. Can I buy new pins without having to buy a new chain to do this and if so where can I buy the new pins?
You absolutely shouldn't! The bike should be in neutral and the rear wheel on the ground (preferably with the front stopped by a wall or with front brake lever engaged - with a rubber band or a tie up) then use a breaker bar/extension to remove the main sprocket nut. Be very careful with that. An impact wrench could ruin the countershaft axle's grooves between the axle and the sprocket and you don't want that (you'll need a new one and that means splitting the cases, opening the engine up).
you don't remove just any pin, you remove the pin from the master link, grinding should be optional on these type of tools. if you don't want to find the master link, then just cut the whole chain with that grinder.
Just an observation... When u cut the master rivet with the grinder u do not want to cut in the direction of your wheel bearing. U probably threw a ton of metal into where the bearing sits.
The point of the chain breaker is you eliminate using a grinder. No need to grind it. If you are using a grinder, get a punch and knock it out and save the $15!
Yes you could use a punch that would probably already have in the right size, but for your $15 you also get the attachments to press on the new plate and to flare the pin.
I just got mine and the quality is trash tier. When you extend the pin or riveter it comes out an angle to the bullseye on the anvil. I guess i could order another and hope for the best since it's really cheap.
Is the tool strong enough to push a pin you didn't grind first? (I'm thinking roadside repair here: you breake your chain, can you fix it with the two spare links you carry and the tool - no grinder)
Another idea would be to just carry two clip on style master links.. I have two clipped on my clutch cable and if I ever need them, I can make the quick repair and continue my trip.. then replace my chain as soon as possible. ✌🏻
@@ZentRose I did not have a grinder and it does after breaking about 4 links. After breaking links on both my bikes the shaft for pushing the pins out bent. I watched this video AFTER using the tool. Probably would have gone at it with a rat tail on hand had I known to get more life out of my 15 bucks
Purchased the Stockton chain breaker tool from Cycle gear, Threads stripped out the first time I used it. I had a german made version that worked great from 1977 to 2000 when my toolbox was stolen...... I miss quality German & American-made tools. China is nice and cheap but the quality they sell to Americans suck.
Motion pro has been selling it for absurd amounts for at least two decades now. It's nice when the Chinese factories that produce for them start marketing it themselves worldwide for far less margin.
I have this tool and it's a piece of garbage. There was so much slop in it that the inner threaded part stripped. Also, the riveting pin wasn't domed...it was completely flat on the end. Spend some extra money and get the 'heavy duty' chain tool with the fat handle.
@@markpreimesberger1281 Ok. I bought a handful of master links, so I guess before I head out i'm going to split my chain and install a master link; that way, if I have any problems with my chain, I can easily split it or even just install my spare chain.
![Eminem - Like My Shit [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vx_IMvFkrfA/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is absolutely riveting!
whats the pun?
Are we starting a pun chain?
It had me chained to my desk.
Dude, thanks! Every freaking video the people just say what tool they have in it, and dont show it at all. You made this very dumby proof, love it !
That tool is a copy of a classic Pacific Coast Cycle design dating back to the 1970s or older. It comes with more adapters too. There's no reason such a tool should be expensive and that one is priced fairly.
This tool was originally designed to punch the pin out without the need for grinding anything. If you're replacing the chain and have a grinder, just cut the chain and toss it away leaving the chain breaker in the box.
Ha, that's kinda what I'm thinking each time I see guys grinding the links flush to use their removal tool. I take that same grinder and instead of grinding, I just cut the damn chain off. Bam. Done. Use that tool to rivet your new master link. No need to use as part of a 2-step chain removal process.
@@P-MAC yeah I bought one of these chain breakers, only to find out I need to grind the pin down. Should of put the money towards a grinder instead
@@P-MAC can use it to keep the chain or remove links if a gearing change requires it, so still a usefull tool for that purpose.
I have it just as an emergency under my seat along with spare split links Incase chain snaps on the trail or road
The press pin needs to be flush or slightly recessed inside of the alignment bolt, first snug the large alignment bolt against the chain plate then turn the drive bolt to push the chain's pin out. Starting with the tool's drive pin extended outside of the alignment bolt will greatly increase the chance of breaking the tip.
I spent way too long trying to figure out how shorten my chain for my surron . But thanks to your video I finally succeeded. Thank you.
I have this tool, and you are using it incorrectly to flare the pin. Your arivett pin should be recessed 2 mm into the larger Bolt before you begin. The larger bolt should be screwed fingertight, flush against the chain side plate, so that the chain pin is recessed into the hole in the larger Bolt. If you assemble it as you have shown, with the rivet pin protruding from the larger bolt, this will lead to bent or broken rivet pin, or non-consentric flare.
So the bigger bolt rests flush against the plate and then you tighten the smaller bolt to push the rivet adapter tighter to flare the pin right?
Listen to @TurboDV8 ! I went thru a couple of these cheap pieces of junk. No instruction and no clear video on YT. Is the spring necessary to put inside with the riveter?
Awesome comment and probably a crucial advice! What do you think of the tool in general? Is it gonna last at least a few uses?
@@igorvashkov8821Agreed. I'll say I'm confused. A bit deep for me
I've had that same tool. You're going to get about two master link presses out of it and then the press will bend and not work. Get the motion-pro for $110
Thank you. I bought this tool from Amazon and used it exactly the way you showed it
Glad it worked! A lot of recent comments have said that this tool no longer works well.
thanks to you i bought this tool and changed my chain many thanks for keeping this on youtube all there's years
I wish I had seen this video before I destroyed 2 pins on my Nielsen chain tool! 🤦🏼♂️ you live and learn huh! Nice video and made me more confident riveting my master link when the replacement comes! I also wish I had thought of putting the master on the rear sprocket to keep it secured!!
I read really bad reviews on this kit. But I see you made it work easily. I guess with any project we should just take our time be patient and be precise. I’m going to order this kit now.
How'd it go?
@@existential_fred the kit worked fine. I had no problems.
I saw the bad reviews but after seeing this I’m ordering one, it makes you wonder if some the reviewers are 1) using the wrong pin for the rivet or 2) they don’t have the pin perfectly lined up or 3) they are just plain ham fisted 😀
@@terrylee9932 I'd say there is a bit of luck in terms of the quality control. Mine flared the pin rather then the chain rivet.
I did order one & as soon as I went to use it, the quality was so bad the threads were jumping & I couldn’t tighten it ….so I sent it back 🤣…….then I went to Halfords & bought a Chain Monkey chain tool & it was brilliant 👍🏼
Mine didn't do so well. The pin to push the link out bent, but did do the job, then the rivet punch also bent, and I had to find a ball bearing (the one from the passenger footpeg retaining mechanism was just right) and stop it pressing into the tool by using the previously bent push pin to do the riveting. There was also a casting mark on mine which prevented the anvil sitting square in the tool, I didn't see this until the job was finished, it may have been responsible for all the bent pins and punches. All this was on my Honda VFR800 which has a 530 chain. If I had to do the job again I'd buy another but grind that casting mark out, it's still cheaper than paying a dealer to do the job.
The anvil didn't fit my 520 chain, the holes were too close together. I was able to work around this issue, and then the tool broke while staking the rivet. I bought the tool because the chain I ordered, that was supposed to come with a removable link, came with the rivet type. I'm waiting for a return ticket from Amazon. Luckily I didn't have to remove a staked chain.
Great video mate. Just purchased the same unit and will hopefully be using it over the weekend. It's always good to the unit In action before committing to it. Your video was very done and thank you. 👍
Watched 5/10 videos on how to do this and you explained it the best👍🏼
i bought the same. three links and it’s bent. 1st link to take chain off (mushroom), then took 2 links to adjust new chain length. 3rd time before the rivet was out the punch bent. also it’s not very plum the punch doesn’t come out dead center.
I use this tool all the time to replace the chain on my bike. If used properly, it works flawlessly!
Excellent review and video, I’ll grab me one of these as you’ve convinced me that they’ll do the job👍🏻
Thank you wish I had watched this before i did my new chain now i know how it works lol 😆
Cheers from new Zealand
You've done the best vid so far
Thanks man! Just got my tool and couldn't figure out which pin was for flaring the rivet.. thought i was screwed.
This vid is a money saver, and made things so easy for me, who is new at this. Thanks!!!
Nice video..I'm cheap like you..same Walmart grinder was like 20 bucks.. invaluable for it's usefulness and my chain tool was branded OMT but looks exactly the same.. going to pop the chain and use it to press the master together and I have a clip
Just bought one!
thanks for the video, I bought the same tool now I have a better understanding.
Appreciate it! Thanks for sharing.
I am thinking about buying a new motorcycle and changing the rear spocket as soon as I can. I won't need a new chain,. Can I buy new pins without having to buy a new chain to do this and if so where can I buy the new pins?
the front sprocket nut is the only time I use impact on a moto
@Weston Trent no, nobody cares
You absolutely shouldn't! The bike should be in neutral and the rear wheel on the ground (preferably with the front stopped by a wall or with front brake lever engaged - with a rubber band or a tie up) then use a breaker bar/extension to remove the main sprocket nut. Be very careful with that.
An impact wrench could ruin the countershaft axle's grooves between the axle and the sprocket and you don't want that (you'll need a new one and that means splitting the cases, opening the engine up).
Never understood why people use the chain breaker on the old chain. Just grind it off. It's trash now anyway.
Exactly!
save your cutting disk
you don't remove just any pin, you remove the pin from the master link, grinding should be optional on these type of tools.
if you don't want to find the master link, then just cut the whole chain with that grinder.
Thanks for clearing this up as I saw the grinder and thought surely the master link would pop right out with that tool
oem chain dont have a master link at all. they are put on at the factory before the swing arm is assembled
@@mechanicalman4531 all chains have master links.
You should make more videos like you used to!
The clip presure tool dont fit with the two pin in it,by 525 and 520.I try to drill it.Very hard material.I glue nuts on. ;)
Just an observation... When u cut the master rivet with the grinder u do not want to cut in the direction of your wheel bearing. U probably threw a ton of metal into where the bearing sits.
nonsense...its minimal at best...
wrong theres no way swarf is going to get in the wheel bearing with the wheel on the bike, moron
Do you think it will work for a chainsaw ? Thank you
Good work . helped me
master link vs rivet pros vs cons? for a wr250r
Did you ever have any problems with your chain after using this tool?
Can you push the pin through with the chain tool without the grinder to cut off the head?
I stripped my chain tool trying to push pin out without grinding it 1st
they make a heavy duty kit that will push the pin thru. This model will break.
Yep, no problems. I just made a quick video doing just that.
The point of the chain breaker is you eliminate using a grinder. No need to grind it. If you are using a grinder, get a punch and knock it out and save the $15!
The cheap chain breakers like this one will break without grinding the pin.
Yes you could use a punch that would probably already have in the right size, but for your $15 you also get the attachments to press on the new plate and to flare the pin.
I agree..why buy this chain breaker tools but need grinding 🤣
@@CrazycatRider to put the chain on and rivet the link. you cant do that with the grinder now can you
Awesome Video Love Watching Your Channel Post
More videos👏👋👍👌🙌👏👋👍✌👌
Did I miss something? Why wouldn’t you remove the chain at the master link?
oem chains dont have a master link, they are fully factory riveted and put on before the swingarm is assembled
I just got mine and the quality is trash tier. When you extend the pin or riveter it comes out an angle to the bullseye on the anvil. I guess i could order another and hope for the best since it's really cheap.
Is the tool strong enough to push a pin you didn't grind first?
(I'm thinking roadside repair here: you breake your chain, can you fix it with the two spare links you carry and the tool - no grinder)
I would not trust this tool without grinding first.
@@ZentRose I bought that tool for 11€ I guess I'll try on an old chain and see for myself
Another idea would be to just carry two clip on style master links.. I have two clipped on my clutch cable and if I ever need them, I can make the quick repair and continue my trip.. then replace my chain as soon as possible. ✌🏻
@@joeygunzilla6878 Wouldn't you need to remove the broken link with the right tool first?
@@AnIdiotOnTwoWheels not if it is an easy link without Rivets
Thanx for informative video
It says to keep the pin recessed which is bull because then the adjustment bolt gets to pushin the plates to hard together! Lesson learned 🤬
wrong, the internal bolt which pushes the pin moves. the outer bolt stays fixed against the plate and doesn't move
You dropped your tool on the rim, not good, but thanks for the video!
what was the suspension book you recommended a long time ago?
Possibly Tune to Win by Carrol Smith. It is a good basic book that tells you the basics of what you need to know.
Don’t have a grinder but I’m buying that tool don’t think I’ll need to grind it off ?
No, you don't have to grind off the rivets.
i dont have a grinder. could i still use it without grinding the head?
I think this tool would break without grinding the pin.
@@ZentRose I did not have a grinder and it does after breaking about 4 links. After breaking links on both my bikes the shaft for pushing the pins out bent. I watched this video AFTER using the tool. Probably would have gone at it with a rat tail on hand had I known to get more life out of my 15 bucks
thinking a file will work to grind that just take a few more minutes and effort, my grinder is in storage
Is there any way to do this without grinding the rivet first? I don’t want to rent a grinder for this..
Purchased the Stockton chain breaker tool from Cycle gear, Threads stripped out the first time I used it. I had a german made version that worked great from 1977 to 2000 when my toolbox was stolen...... I miss quality German & American-made tools. China is nice and cheap but the quality they sell to Americans suck.
good job m8
I bought that same tool at cycle gear for $100🥲
Motion pro has been selling it for absurd amounts for at least two decades now. It's nice when the Chinese factories that produce for them start marketing it themselves worldwide for far less margin.
People that paid 100 bucks for this tiny piece of metal are mad now
I have this tool and it's a piece of garbage. There was so much slop in it that the inner threaded part stripped. Also, the riveting pin wasn't domed...it was completely flat on the end. Spend some extra money and get the 'heavy duty' chain tool with the fat handle.
i have it and the rivet pin is domed, you bought the wrong tool
@@mechanicalman4531 Chineez qwarity
What was the brand name
ABN Pretty Ladyboy
dude...if you're grinding down the rivets, change to a metal cutting blade and zip zap, cut that bad boy off....Ez pz....
I was thinking the same . . . you're only going to bin the chain anyway.
I bought one off eBay , it was total junk. Bought another one for twice the price!!
Good
You don’t need to grind the pin if you have the tool. That was so extra.
thats what I thought....slap a metal cutting blade on that grinder and Whamo! chain falls away like a bad date!!
mine broke on its first use
Why didn't you just find the master link and split the chain there?
Endless chain, there is no masterlink .
@@markpreimesberger1281 Ok. I bought a handful of master links, so I guess before I head out i'm going to split my chain and install a master link; that way, if I have any problems with my chain, I can easily split it or even just install my spare chain.
That tool sucks couldn't flare a 525 rk master link the pin was flaring itself 🤦 and the tool bent in a banana shape it's made out of very soft metal
sounds like user error on your part
I just ordered one on eBay before seeing this video $29