I use diesel and a brush for cleaning and ipone road grease for my o-ring chain. I have a Pulsar NS200 and the chain lasted me 40.000km until i sold it, only tensioning it 6 out of 24 available "clicks" on the tensioner. Cleaning and lubing once every 2.500km and tensioning the chain when necesary.
That's because it was a 200cc bike and nothing about how you looked after it. Take a 1000cc bike and do the same. You won't get 10k kilometers out of it.
@@Stevo299 a) i see people with the same bike as me where their chains won't last past 20.000km b) what do you suggets for extending a chain's life span in big displacement motorcycles? because 10.000km is not much and cleaning and lubing is universal for all chains.
@@hiiamnick1992 I don't suggest anything new. Clean your chain and lube it, that's it. However know that a chain is a wearing item and on big power bikes they stretch much quicker than on small displacement bikes, it's physics 🤷♂️
I've got 2 bikes, a 1978 Triumph Bonneville 750 and a 1980 Suzuki GS550. Both have unsealed chains, the Triumph because there isn't enough clearance to use a wider, o-ring chain, and the Suzuki because that is what was on it when I bought it, so I'll keep it until it's worn out. My chaincare is done the old fashioned way, take the chain off, wash it in degreaser, then boil it up on the stove in the tin of chain wax. Something satisfying about seeing it sink below the surface as the wax melts. No doubt some of you won't know what I'm talking about, if you've never had a traditional chain.
Who says your system is the "old-fashioned" way to lube a chain? It requires too much time and effort to perform a simple task. Unless you ride in extremely harsh conditions all the time, chain maintenance is easy.
CHAIN WAX TRADITIONAL CHAIN BOILING TIN in the 90s a friend asked me if I can help him to mainitain his triumph, i was surprised because he had 2 spray cans for the chain and no chain wax. nowadays i use a spray can too 😭
@@aluisious it is considering waxing takes much better on a completely deceased (new) chain meaning properly cleaning a new chain... but once the chain doesn't hold much oil if any, cleaning and lubing is most times quicker than on an dirty oiled up chain. washing is done w/ hot water and rewaxing is done in min w/ the only labor being taking removing and reinstalling the chain. the drivetrain also remains clean as there's no oil to hold dirt. ------------------------ main advantage is drive train longevity: the culprit of chain wear is the abrasive dirt that ends up mixing w/ oil creating an abrasive paste inside the chain... it's rather difficult to impossible to remove it and that's why most road chains last longer than offroad ones even though the torque stress is in general greater for street. anyways, what wax does better than oil is 'blocking' dirt from making it inside the chain, kind of plugs the gaps. when dry lubricants are mixed w/ the wax, friction is reduced similar to oily lubes. both sprockets and chain see *substantially* less wear because of the absence of 'wet sandpaper'. main disadvantage of wax is in wet conditions. as the chain is used, some of the wax gets squeezed out and gets lost. whatever is not coated in wax will rust (unless there's an anti corrosion treatment from the chain factory) and if left unattended it will shorten chain's life. that does not happen w/ an dirty but oily chain getting wet... there are drip wax lubes that can be applied after a chain gets super wet but they need to be applied asap compared to oily lubes that will protect the chain against rust.
My 2024 T120 uses an O-Ring chain and I'm happy with it. My Versys 650 also had an O-Ring and I also had no issues. Regular adjusting, cleaning and lubrication is key to any chains longevity.
I have pretty much the same set up as both of you on my CBR500R JT dampened front, JT light weight rear, and a DID X Ring, 10k miles and no adjustment yet.
I have a DID ZVMX 530 chain on my Multistrada 1200. I mostly ride up and down mountains, so I'm putting a lot of load on the chain. I clean it...sometimes. I lube it...with whatever I've got handy. Lately it's been some silicone spray. So far it's lasted 25k miles, barely has needed adjustment, seems to be totally fine still, and the original chain only made it 13k. It is the most expensive chain I've seen, but I value my time and effort a lot more than the $100 max I could save by buying a chain I'd need to clean, adjust, and replace much more frequently.
Run the oring/xring chain until it's hot and test the resistance again... They have resistance because they're packed with grease, which becomes free moving when hot.
And the grease melts out, now the chain is buggered, and ya can’t get the Grease/oil back into the O-ring chain. But if you use a non O-ring chain of high quality, you can boil that chain in Wax/Grease combo and get inner links lubed again, every time. I boil dirt bike chains after every ride, they last a long time.
@@benlondon8467 No it does not, that's what the Orings are for 🤦 If you don't hit your oring chain with a pressure washer it will last a very long time indeed, with minimal maintenance. I've been running them the last 20 years, on road and off. The only bike I don't run an Oring chain on is my trials bike, because it won't fit through the tensioner 🤣
@@krazed0451 I am doing Non O- ring chain maintenance, Boiling this on dirt bikes only . Pressure washing hasn’t got anywhere near the power of deep muddy/ wet as F$$$k enduro trail, your chain gets watered out/ blow out with crap. Does not matter if it’s an O- ring chain. And spray lube don’t cut it. If you boil an O- ring chain it will melt the O- ring, so. You buy a RK MXZ5 520 chain , non O-ring 8600pound and you maintain it. I’ve been doing it 40 years.
@@benlondon8467 I've never had the grease wash out of an oring/xring chain prematurely, whether it's on my enduro bike being run through mud and muck or on the road. It gets a wash and occasional degrease with a detergent and then lubed, that's it. If you want to stick to standard chains and don't mind boiling them occasionally etc then keep at it, I prefer the reduced maintenance.
My MT-09 has an X-ring chain because I like the increased chain life and decreased maintenance intervals. The MT-09 still has plenty of power for the road. I use diluted Simple Green cleaner to clean it and a spray wax lubricant that doesn't attract dirt.
I'm using an unsealed chain for my cg125 and the stock one lasted 6 years with little lubing. I just spray chain lube when I remember I have a chain lube 😆
My bike is shaft driven. Which has it's own set of pros and cons. Thanks for the video. You explain the differences well. Very informative and very well done.
Nice, useful video. Thanks. I don't clean my chains. At least not with cleaner/water. I use 90 or 140 transmission oil. Pour some in a paper towel. Apply to the chain and roll the tire. Do it on top and bottom until the paper towel shows less grime. In the process the chain/o-rings get lubricated and all is well. There is no mess, very little oil is actually used and my chains last a long time. Typically ~40,000 kms. And as last bit piece of advice, I wrap a very small white or yellow tie wrap to the chain so that I know where to start and finish the process.
Unsealed chain has wayyyyyyyy less parasitic loss than any other chain with rubber ring... If you dont believe me try it. Even just spinning the wheel by hand the unsealed chain will spin on its own for wayyyy longer than sealed chain.
@@xsdfl4244you’re right but it has a shorter service life. The seals work to keep contamination on the outside, and keep the inside parts like the pin and bushing lubricated and clean on the inside.
i’ve tried a ton of different chains, specs, weights, pitches - i always seem to go back to a DID VX3. they’re cost effective, have a longer life before developing stiff links, and don’t weigh a ton.
Very clear and infornative vid. Thank u sir. I use a Tusk O ring chain on my '22 KLR650. Made one minor adjustment after 7000 miles of all street riding. I clean it every 400-800 miles with a toothbrush and regular strength Simple Green. I then lube it with the blue can Blaster.
several years as a moto courier. i only run plain chain. less parasitic drag=more power at the wheel, lower fuel consumption, and a tendency to roll with the clutch in. for the price of an oring chain, i can get five plain chains. despite pampering and babying a few o-rings/xrings, never had much better than 25,000km from one. at which point, sprockets need changing as well. can run a plain chain for 10,000, about the same as a set of tyres, and keep the sprockets for 3 chains before starting to get "sharky". can push the plain chain to 20,000 by looking after it... i couldnt be bothered? i would be "cleaning and lubricating" it twice a day if i followed the guidelines? spray some lube on every now and then, and even thats getting a bit pedantic for my liking... and, of course, at about 10K all of them start wearing out between the rollers and the bushes... they dont have seals on the actual important bit. and have started stretching enough for the old "kachoonk kachoonk" sound peculiar to all chains as they never seem to stretch/wear evenly... anything else? installing a sealed chain is a PITA. W rings are the worst...
yes, though i'd spend it once rather than twice. the o ring usually cost me 63 dollars while the plain ones are about 25 dollars or less. kind of adds up over time since going around the season a few times save me money.
After religiously cleaning and lubing the chain on my commuter every other week, spending more money on cleaners and lube than just straight up buying new chains every 3 months… I decided chains are not for me and got a shaft driven bike. I will never go back.
@ I never had my bikes longer than the chain’s life so they were always oem chains. Which they are good quality, but rust will get any chain no matter how cheap or expensive.
Yes the pins have a seal, but nothing is sealing the rollers or bushes though. All the grease soon squidges out and the seal prevents fresh lube getting in. A sealed chain only lasts longer because it's wider.
Thanks a lot for your accurate explanation. I‘m using O-Ring for my BMW S1000RR although I‘m riding it on racetracks only. I‘m quite sure it‘s not the bottle-neck on my performance and endurance is much better. I‘m using a high performance chain lubricant with good experience.
So heart warming to see our young Gen having interests and skills other than their smart phones. Baie dankie boet !! Looks like good ol' Pretoria in the background btw LoL Groete 🙏
You also got XW Ring from RK which is the one I'm using. Not sure if it's better than X Ring though... But everybody talks very well of RK products so I usually buy them ,_,
I've had DID Xring Chains for my 600 and 250 CBR, both excellent chains. Since the sprocket and chain was worn on my wifes 125 we also went and spent the extra 20 bucks on an X Ring Chain, just to be sure that the drivetrain is as efficient as possible. I don't think its a huge difference with bigger bikes but on a 125, you take any advantage you can get
I run oring in the Nevada desert on a 450f. I never lube or clean them and the last 6 or 7 years until the orings dry out and start cracking. Oil and grease only attracts dirt and dust.
Great video, I have Owned Numerous big CC Metric bikes. Current bike sitting in my garage is a 2024KTM 890 adventure. All those bikes had O-ring type chains, then I switched them over to x ring chains… with proper maintenance, and adjustments I have always exceeded 25,000 miles on chains. You just have to remember to do proper chain maintenance, and they will last you a long time.
You can get 25k miles without doing "proper maintenance," the 500 mile regimen some people think is necessary. The new top quality chains are very tough.
great video, thank you. Have you done an episode on chain lube? I used to use spray on lube, including the waxy sort and eventually stopped using them as they make a mess of the bike. Instead I use just clean engine oil.
Curious about the difference in metal composition as well. What alloys make for stronger chains that stretch less and allow for more hp? Other than size, i’m sure a motogp bikes chain is under far more stress than a r3, how is that?
There is another way to lubricate the unsealed chain, with better results. Remove and clean the chain well, with diesel or gasoline and a brush. Place it rolled up in a round, flat and shallow metal bowl. An old frying pan works great. Cover the chain with SAE 90 oil and heat it all in a water bath for about 1 hour. Let it cool, remove the chain and drain the excess oil. When it cools, the oil thickens again and becomes trapped inside the rollers. Depending on the frequency of use, this lubrication lasts several months. DON'T DO THIS with sealed chains!...
Unsealed on my drag bike, o-ring on my street bikes. I lube the drag bike chain with WD40. Sounds nuts, but when oiled before every day at the track, It works well and stays clean, keeping everything clean. Less friction as tacky lube well. A generous spray and a quick wipe, good to go. And she gets a new chain every season, with sprockets as needed. Probably could go longer on the chain depending on the season. But I'm constantly changing things up on her, which requires different lengths, so that too. On the Oring street bike, cleaning and a spritz of lube every ~500 miles, usually more often cause it gets gross. I feel like my main concern with this one is cleanliness and keeping the sprocket and roller contact surface lubed.
Tsubaki HQR Super but they stopped making them, but I'm a hoarder so I have spares. I think their best chain is called a RQ1 now. Tsubaki chains are getting harder to find in the US for some reason.
It CAN come with any of the above and different markets will actually have different ones.. If you live in a Salt belt area, you likely got an X/O ring chain, if you live in a very dry area where you dont get Snow and Salt.. your bike may not come with one.. Arizona for example.. you get a cheap "NO" ring chain lol. this is the same with cars.. many different markets and such.. look into Subarus 2002-2007 lower control arm recall, it only effected certain models sold in rust belt states.. not ones the were sold in "nice" areas..
The original chain on my KLR started slinging rollers at about 9000 miles, put a RK o ring chain on and it has 9000 miles (18000 between the two) and still looks new.every now and then I Wash it off with Castrol super clean and a water hose then lube it with a mixture of about 40% whatever motor oil is handy and 60% lucas oil treatment one link at a time, let it drip for a while then touch it up with a rag.the Lucas is kind clingy and helps it stick around.
Thanks buddy, I wish you could have gone deeper to emphasize exactly where to lube the sealed chain. It is still grey area as to whether to lube the rollers or the seals themselves. That would complete the chapter.
WD-40 also works pretty well to clean all the grunge off. Kerosene is a safe bet, not going to be too hard on the x/o rings. Use a better lubricant however. Wax sets up an abrasive paste grit that chews away on everything in a short span of time. Honestly a straight-weight 30 non-detergent motor oil outperforms all the chain lubes on the market, but you have to apply it regularly (like an auto-oiling system). Otherwise, I recommend Motorex Road Strong.
@@paulf2534 It's debatable. XSR owner's manual says to use a cleaner such as kerosene (paraffin oil). GSXR manuals say basically the same thing. Other manuals have said as much. DID chains say not to use kerosene. RK chains say not to use kerosene. EK chains say USE KEROSENE IF NECESSARY. Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (HNBR) is what X-rings are made out of. I haven't found a source yet about the effects of kerosene (paraffin oil) contact with HNBR. I'm going to say based on many manufacturer's service manuals, at least one chain-supplier, that Kerosene isn't going to be a problem. Kerosene is NOT gasoline, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, brake cleaner, or penetrating solvent.
X-ring for street or amateur racers. Now let's apply a little bit of OCD to the equation when it comes to lubrication technique. I noticed in the video on a couple of brief shots displaying someone lubricating from the outside of the chain around the sprocket, while this seems to be a good technique, there is actually a superior technique, and that would be to lubricate from the inner part of the chain links as you spin the rear wheel slowly, this can only be achieved in one area, and that is between the rear sprocket and CS sprocket where you would check for proper chain sag of 11/4". This measurement will change over time as the chain and sprockets wear leaving high and low spots as a chain rotates. Finding a happy medium is key to the successful life of the components.
What is the quietest, lightest chain for an E Moto? I tried a Non O Ring Gold Series for my E Ride Pro on a 60 tooth sprocket with 16 inch rear wheel. Tested it out yesterday and it was annoying loud at speed... Any thoughts on the matter greatly appreciated! Thank you!
X Ring chain on my MC22 and NC35, Clean with Kero and plastic brush, then lube with high weifht gear oil as per Honda spec. Used gear oil all my life, cheapest and most effective lubricant option
I used the standard chain for a while, the bike ran much better, but the problem was the lube, the rear tire was getting lubricated as well because the amount of lubricant was necessary.
In my younger years, I had a few bikes with chains, not anymore, I am very very happy with my Harley Heritage which is belt driven this is so nice that also my ebike is one with a belt instead of a chain. Of course, as everyone will know by now, I have no desire to go on a race track 🙂
The X-ring seems to be narrower (VS O-ring) as well so the bending moment on the pins is reduced and puts the pins closer to a pure shear condition. A non-sealed chain would seem to be the strongest configuration if all other things are equal since the links are practically up against each other. Obviously the seals provide a huge benefit for longevity of life.
No. Some older British bikes (my 1978 Triumph, for example) don't have enough clearance either side of the gear box sprocket for sealed chains, which are slightly wider.
I think the biggest issue is the size of the chain. Eg 525, 500, 420 etc. I use 525 and find they resist stretching better than lower massed chains. I do maintain them regularly with brushing and lubing.
I don’t ride street bikes but for my quads and dirt bikes I just use motor oil to lube them with a square paint brush. Rather it’s sealed or unsealed I’ve never had a problem.
My Grom has an unsealed chain while my Hypermotard 950SP has a D.I.D. o-ring chain. What I have notice is the that the o-rings are getting frazzled. The latter doesn't have that many mile ~8,880. BTW: I have been viewing your videos for a few years; there are rarely any humans anywhere!
Got a couple small bikes, TBR7 dual-sport and Boom Vader (Grom Clone), both have o-ring-less to get more power to the back wheel. That's my thinking. Just a little extra chain care for the extra rear-wheel power.
I have a standard (unsealed) chain on my small displacement bike-- its cheap and tough enough and will not sap hp from my already small engine, lol. I adjust every 500-700kms and clean just as often but its all good. I use WD-40 to dissolve the gun and then use soapy wooder with a grunge brush to detail it. Wash it down with water then blast it with air. I've got it down to a tee and I honestly enjot doing it.
Scottoiler and don't look back. I haven't had to clean or lube a chain in ages and the reservoir lasts about 1,000 miles and takes about 5 min to refill. On top of taking chain maintenance away, it constantly cleans the chain. At 20,000 miles on my current chain and it's never moved. Last chain went 50,000 with no adjustment needed, it just finally started spitting out orings.
The 525 x-ring chain is the longevity-based, durable no-brainer. The expensive racing 520 x-ring chain is the lightweight, somewhat reduced longevity, high performance no-brainer. It's amazing how much power the high-tensile 520 can take for those concerned about the least weight, least drag, least influence on suspension action (usually coupled with high hardness alloy sprocket). Those in drag racing that want all advantages they can get? They strip out the x-rings (or o-rings) with a metal pick, they install 520 high tensile chain, they install hard alloy sprockets, they install ceramic wheel bearings (offer a much improved reduction of rotational drag), install carbon fiber wheels, and delete the rear brake rotor and caliper.
the friction on x-ring chain is higher, not lower! Because the contact points are more between moving parts. It helps to keep dirt from inner greased parts. That makes less maintenance and longer chain life
X-ring here on my CBR1000RR. I need a chain that will last a long distance. It may be a sport bike but I use it strictly for touring. My last trip was almost 12,000 Km's and having a chain issue a long way from home gets expensive when you have to get a dealer to do it and if you have to spend an extra night or two at your motel. Replacing a chain in a motel parking lot is not my idea of a good time. And the tools and spare chain are a bit heavy to pack.
I have heard of a chain that utilizes a needle roller design and O-rings... Could you please lean in on this, as I think that its a marvelous wsy to do things. I have been riding Harleys and Buells for 56 years and over the past couple of decades my bikes have worn belts, and my current belt is at 80,000 miles, still good...but a bugger to replace so the chain I am mentioning may come next. Thank you!
I Ride Quads. Mine have the O-Ring Style Chains on them. I see the Benefits-Ring Chain, but I don't think I will see any performance of the X-Ring Chain on A Quad. I like the 360 Camera Video, I might have to get me one of them for my Quad Trail Rides. Great Video Presentation!
On my 2005 Yamaha MT-01 (1670 Cc V-Twin naked bike) I most certainly have an X-Ring Chain and nothing else. If a better product comes available, I will switch, but it has to be better and the price should be in proportion to the improvement over the x-ring chain.
I have the powerparts unsealed chain on my ktm excf, the xring was 40€ more. Im happy with my choice beacause i dont mind cleaning more often and the engine can transfer more power.
I ised to have a chain drive on my 1990 Harley Sportster - an 883 model bored out to 1200 - and it ate chains and sprockets ( two chains to one sprocket change) even though I cleaned and lubed every 250 miles - chains would last 3k miles at best. Then I fitted a belt drive for about the same cost as 2 chains and one set of sprockets.... the belt lasted 40k miles and I only changed it as I refurbished the bike, using the first set of pulleys ! No regular maintenance, no re- tensioning every two weeks and no having to clean all the rear of the bike every month.....
@@deltabluesdavidraye Yes, you are right there but no cush-drive makes the bike feel 'raw and wild'..... belt drives act as a bit of a cush drive as they are just glass (or Kevlar) re-inforced plastic anyway ! People say they aren't strong enough but as most Harleys are well under 100bhp then the belt is good enough if kept clean and used with good belt guards to prevent stone damage. I hot-rodded a Dyna to over 100bhp and torque and the belt lasted 60k miles easily.
@thakery5720 regardless Harley needed a Kush drive hub like everyone else and never did it.Royal Enfield invented the Kush drive hub back in the 40's and every bike manufacturer with sense soon used it.
@@deltabluesdavidraye Well from the tone of the last part of your reply it's obvious that you are a 'Harley hater' so I'll take the time to explanin to you that as Harleys are so heavy and the engines make so much torque then the 'conventional' type of cush drive simply won't last very long. H-D fitted shock absorber type engine pulleys to bikes for many years but as the engines grew larger they proved to be somewhat impractical and unable to handle the amount of torqe needed to move such heavy bikes.... this is why belt drives were adopted as apart from lower maintenance needed, they also offer a modicum of 'cush' as it is often called. Now you will probably reply that H-D should make smaller, lighter bikes and they are doing so nowadays for riders who only embark on shorter journeys but they still make bigger and heavier bikes for those who prefer a more comfortable ride especially over longer distances and enjoy the comfort of a heavier bike..... No they are not as agile, and no they are not very practical as 'ride-to-work' vehicles but I can assure you they offer a level of comfort that is only equaled by larger touring bikes from other manufacturers who use different drive systems to chains so as to avoid the high maintenace needed on chain driven vehicles. I wonder have you ever tried doing a two or three thousand mile journey on a chain driven bike that is carrying a passenger and camping gear ?.... a chain driven bike, with or without a cush drive is impractical due to the amount of maintenance needed over the journey. One further point is that rear pulleys with such a cush-drive need more frequent maintenance as the Japenese find on their Harleys which due to import laws in Japan must be fitted with cush drives - when they wear out, the owners replace those pulleys with non-cushdrive ones so as to make the bikes less labour intensive. The sort of cushdrive wheel hubs most bikes use just can't handle the high torque figures produced by Harleys - belts are a cheap and easy way to go as they are comparitively maintenance free !
My wife rode a dr200 ro work for 6 years. Daily. I ended up using the x ring chain and pb blaster. We lived in the carribbean and had extremely limited access to good stuff. The x ring and pb combo was hands down the best combo available. I oiled it every other day and we would get 8000 miles out of a chain. O ring chains i got 3 to 5 thousand depending on brand and oil. Had to get a non sealed chain once as money was non existent once. Got about 2 thousand miles and it practically fell off the bike. The x ring gets my vote.
I got an x ring chain on my crf250l. It basically made my maintenance intervals like a car. Id probably spend the extra money again because the crf is already underpowered.
Current bike 1983 XT250. Normal old chain here. Spray it with some WD40 sometimes. I like it basically dry, stays clean that way. My bike has drum brakes so not worried about overspray heck I give the whole darn thing the WD treatment after a wash.
My ordinary unsealed stock chain last 22k km without cleaning. I just put oil all the time. I hope the heavy duty version which is thicker will last more than my previous chain.
I used O ring chain on my Cagiva 500's. They are heavier. The amount of drag from an O ring is huge. I'd guess 3hp or so in friction loss. Even going down hill you lose speed where a conventional chain will let you coast or gain speed. I stopped using them. And an O ring chain can rust. Even my Regina chain. I soak my chains in used motor oil. the longer the better. Let them drip dry for a day. easier in the summer when it's warm. This works far better than using chain lube. I do use chain lube, but not often. For about 50 yrs.
using sealed chains might cost u more if u dont clean then correctly with incorrect cleaning chemical or not brushing enough to dust it out. the chain might have some paralized links and it cannot be fixed.
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I use diesel and a brush for cleaning and ipone road grease for my o-ring chain. I have a Pulsar NS200 and the chain lasted me 40.000km until i sold it, only tensioning it 6 out of 24 available "clicks" on the tensioner. Cleaning and lubing once every 2.500km and tensioning the chain when necesary.
That's because it was a 200cc bike and nothing about how you looked after it. Take a 1000cc bike and do the same. You won't get 10k kilometers out of it.
Diesel, and other Petroleum products... degrade rubber products, such as... o rings... Science mane, look it up.
@@Stevo299 a) i see people with the same bike as me where their chains won't last past 20.000km b) what do you suggets for extending a chain's life span in big displacement motorcycles? because 10.000km is not much and cleaning and lubing is universal for all chains.
@@hiiamnick1992 I don't suggest anything new. Clean your chain and lube it, that's it. However know that a chain is a wearing item and on big power bikes they stretch much quicker than on small displacement bikes, it's physics 🤷♂️
Cleaning and Lubing every 2500 km??? Give credit to a chain manufacturer, not your way of maintenance!
I've got 2 bikes, a 1978 Triumph Bonneville 750 and a 1980 Suzuki GS550. Both have unsealed chains, the Triumph because there isn't enough clearance to use a wider, o-ring chain, and the Suzuki because that is what was on it when I bought it, so I'll keep it until it's worn out.
My chaincare is done the old fashioned way, take the chain off, wash it in degreaser, then boil it up on the stove in the tin of chain wax. Something satisfying about seeing it sink below the surface as the wax melts. No doubt some of you won't know what I'm talking about, if you've never had a traditional chain.
Who says your system is the "old-fashioned" way to lube a chain? It requires too much time and effort to perform a simple task. Unless you ride in extremely harsh conditions all the time, chain maintenance is easy.
CHAIN WAX TRADITIONAL CHAIN BOILING TIN
in the 90s a friend asked me if I can help him to mainitain his triumph, i was surprised because he had 2 spray cans for the chain and no chain wax.
nowadays i use a spray can too 😭
I use an O ring chain on my 1955 Ariel 500 off roader. The naysayers told me it wouldn't work because there was not enough clearance.
That sounds like real hassle.
@@aluisious it is considering waxing takes much better on a completely deceased (new) chain meaning properly cleaning a new chain... but once the chain doesn't hold much oil if any, cleaning and lubing is most times quicker than on an dirty oiled up chain. washing is done w/ hot water and rewaxing is done in min w/ the only labor being taking removing and reinstalling the chain. the drivetrain also remains clean as there's no oil to hold dirt.
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main advantage is drive train longevity: the culprit of chain wear is the abrasive dirt that ends up mixing w/ oil creating an abrasive paste inside the chain... it's rather difficult to impossible to remove it and that's why most road chains last longer than offroad ones even though the torque stress is in general greater for street. anyways, what wax does better than oil is 'blocking' dirt from making it inside the chain, kind of plugs the gaps. when dry lubricants are mixed w/ the wax, friction is reduced similar to oily lubes. both sprockets and chain see *substantially* less wear because of the absence of 'wet sandpaper'.
main disadvantage of wax is in wet conditions. as the chain is used, some of the wax gets squeezed out and gets lost. whatever is not coated in wax will rust (unless there's an anti corrosion treatment from the chain factory) and if left unattended it will shorten chain's life. that does not happen w/ an dirty but oily chain getting wet... there are drip wax lubes that can be applied after a chain gets super wet but they need to be applied asap compared to oily lubes that will protect the chain against rust.
O-Ring is the way to go for my dualsport-commuterbike. Reliable, easy maintenance and horsepower doesn't matter for my applications 😅
My 2024 T120 uses an O-Ring chain and I'm happy with it. My Versys 650 also had an O-Ring and I also had no issues. Regular adjusting, cleaning and lubrication is key to any chains longevity.
I fitted an JT X ring chain to my CB500X..with a rubber dampened front sprocket...super smooth and quiet..👍🏍
I have a JT damped front, super light rear, and a DID x ring on my 500X. It’s still not needed an ounce of adjustment in 7k miles.
I have pretty much the same set up as both of you on my CBR500R JT dampened front, JT light weight rear, and a DID X Ring, 10k miles and no adjustment yet.
Nice. Where did you buy dampened front sprocket please ?
@pauloconnor7951 motorcycle warehouse
I have a DID ZVMX 530 chain on my Multistrada 1200. I mostly ride up and down mountains, so I'm putting a lot of load on the chain. I clean it...sometimes. I lube it...with whatever I've got handy. Lately it's been some silicone spray. So far it's lasted 25k miles, barely has needed adjustment, seems to be totally fine still, and the original chain only made it 13k.
It is the most expensive chain I've seen, but I value my time and effort a lot more than the $100 max I could save by buying a chain I'd need to clean, adjust, and replace much more frequently.
Thanks man, that was a very clear explanation 👍
Run the oring/xring chain until it's hot and test the resistance again... They have resistance because they're packed with grease, which becomes free moving when hot.
And the grease melts out, now the chain is buggered, and ya can’t get the Grease/oil back into the O-ring chain.
But if you use a non O-ring chain of high quality, you can boil that chain in Wax/Grease combo and get inner links lubed again, every time. I boil dirt bike chains after every ride, they last a long time.
@@benlondon8467 No it does not, that's what the Orings are for 🤦
If you don't hit your oring chain with a pressure washer it will last a very long time indeed, with minimal maintenance. I've been running them the last 20 years, on road and off. The only bike I don't run an Oring chain on is my trials bike, because it won't fit through the tensioner 🤣
@@krazed0451 I am doing Non O- ring chain maintenance, Boiling this on dirt bikes only . Pressure washing hasn’t got anywhere near the power of deep muddy/ wet as F$$$k enduro trail, your chain gets watered out/ blow out with crap. Does not matter if it’s an O- ring chain. And spray lube don’t cut it.
If you boil an O- ring chain it will melt the O- ring, so.
You buy a RK MXZ5 520 chain , non O-ring 8600pound and you maintain it.
I’ve been doing it 40 years.
@@benlondon8467 I've never had the grease wash out of an oring/xring chain prematurely, whether it's on my enduro bike being run through mud and muck or on the road. It gets a wash and occasional degrease with a detergent and then lubed, that's it. If you want to stick to standard chains and don't mind boiling them occasionally etc then keep at it, I prefer the reduced maintenance.
@@krazed0451 to each there own 👍, be what ya want , do what ya wanna do ✌️
I use a DID X ring Rossi chain in 525 pitch looks awesome performs awesome too and a bit of bike meet bling too lol
My MT-09 has an X-ring chain because I like the increased chain life and decreased maintenance intervals. The MT-09 still has plenty of power for the road. I use diluted Simple Green cleaner to clean it and a spray wax lubricant that doesn't attract dirt.
I'm using an unsealed chain for my cg125 and the stock one lasted 6 years with little lubing. I just spray chain lube when I remember I have a chain lube 😆
My bike is shaft driven. Which has it's own set of pros and cons.
Thanks for the video. You explain the differences well. Very informative and very well done.
Nice, useful video. Thanks. I don't clean my chains. At least not with cleaner/water. I use 90 or 140 transmission oil. Pour some in a paper towel. Apply to the chain and roll the tire. Do it on top and bottom until the paper towel shows less grime. In the process the chain/o-rings get lubricated and all is well. There is no mess, very little oil is actually used and my chains last a long time. Typically ~40,000 kms. And as last bit piece of advice, I wrap a very small white or yellow tie wrap to the chain so that I know where to start and finish the process.
MotoGP uses unsealed chains
Yeah cus they only have to last one race
About like their tires, they don't shy away from high rate consumables for advantages in rolling resistance or grip.
Unsealed chain has wayyyyyyyy less parasitic loss than any other chain with rubber ring... If you dont believe me try it. Even just spinning the wheel by hand the unsealed chain will spin on its own for wayyyy longer than sealed chain.
@@xsdfl4244 this is a reasonable no-brainer.
@@xsdfl4244you’re right but it has a shorter service life. The seals work to keep contamination on the outside, and keep the inside parts like the pin and bushing lubricated and clean on the inside.
i’ve tried a ton of different chains, specs, weights, pitches - i always seem to go back to a DID VX3. they’re cost effective, have a longer life before developing stiff links, and don’t weigh a ton.
Very clear and infornative vid. Thank u sir. I use a Tusk O ring chain on my '22 KLR650. Made one minor adjustment after 7000 miles of all street riding. I clean it every 400-800 miles with a toothbrush and regular strength Simple Green. I then lube it with the blue can Blaster.
thank you for a very informative video on chains. i never knew this was a thing, coming from a shaft drive sport tourer owner
I had a DID Xring chain fitted to my Z400, not for performance but because I rarely have to adjust it. Plus the gold color looks good. 😃
several years as a moto courier.
i only run plain chain.
less parasitic drag=more power at the wheel, lower fuel consumption, and a tendency to roll with the clutch in.
for the price of an oring chain, i can get five plain chains.
despite pampering and babying a few o-rings/xrings, never had much better than 25,000km from one. at which point, sprockets need changing as well.
can run a plain chain for 10,000, about the same as a set of tyres, and keep the sprockets for 3 chains before starting to get "sharky". can push the plain chain to 20,000 by looking after it... i couldnt be bothered? i would be "cleaning and lubricating" it twice a day if i followed the guidelines? spray some lube on every now and then, and even thats getting a bit pedantic for my liking...
and, of course, at about 10K all of them start wearing out between the rollers and the bushes... they dont have seals on the actual important bit. and have started stretching enough for the old "kachoonk kachoonk" sound peculiar to all chains as they never seem to stretch/wear evenly...
anything else? installing a sealed chain is a PITA. W rings are the worst...
do you think the difdference in power transfer to the wheel feels in a plain chain vs oring one?
@@betanamees plain chain is cheap. meaning its no great expense to experiment and find out for yourself...
yes, though i'd spend it once rather than twice. the o ring usually cost me 63 dollars while the plain ones are about 25 dollars or less. kind of adds up over time since going around the season a few times save me money.
After religiously cleaning and lubing the chain on my commuter every other week, spending more money on cleaners and lube than just straight up buying new chains every 3 months… I decided chains are not for me and got a shaft driven bike. I will never go back.
X-ring chain, clean the gunk off, install auto-oiler. All the cleaning and maintenance woes are basically eliminated.
what? my bikes since the 80s had and have only sidestands, a few meters free space and a few minutes after a tour and all is done.
A very large loss in torque and h.p.
Did you ever consider buying a better chain, not babying it all the time, and seeing how long it lasted?
@ I never had my bikes longer than the chain’s life so they were always oem chains. Which they are good quality, but rust will get any chain no matter how cheap or expensive.
Yes the pins have a seal, but nothing is sealing the rollers or bushes though. All the grease soon squidges out and the seal prevents fresh lube getting in. A sealed chain only lasts longer because it's wider.
I use unsealed chain on my trackday bike, lesser resistance💪🏽. I do replace them more frequently.
Old harley chains are self- lubricating haha. Jokes aside I've had em snap, ball up and eat an oil line AND ignition wire. Respect the chain.
Thanks a lot for your accurate explanation.
I‘m using O-Ring for my BMW S1000RR although I‘m riding it on racetracks only. I‘m quite sure it‘s not the bottle-neck on my performance and endurance is much better. I‘m using a high performance chain lubricant with good experience.
So heart warming to see our young Gen having interests and skills other than their smart phones. Baie dankie boet !! Looks like good ol' Pretoria in the background btw LoL Groete 🙏
You also got XW Ring from RK which is the one I'm using. Not sure if it's better than X Ring though... But everybody talks very well of RK products so I usually buy them ,_,
RK is Takasago's "racing" product line so its pretty good.
My speed 400 came with x-rings lol
why lol?
@@seepranavg
IDK why but all the India bound units ship with X-rings
Xrings are just better Orings. Reducing friction on lower capacity bikes to preserve power just makes sense.
So as Duke 390
Great visuals and explanation
EXCELLENT VIDEO - BRIEF & TO THE POINT - MUST WATCH - THANK YOU 👍 👍
I've had DID Xring Chains for my 600 and 250 CBR, both excellent chains. Since the sprocket and chain was worn on my wifes 125 we also went and spent the extra 20 bucks on an X Ring Chain, just to be sure that the drivetrain is as efficient as possible. I don't think its a huge difference with bigger bikes but on a 125, you take any advantage you can get
I run oring in the Nevada desert on a 450f. I never lube or clean them and the last 6 or 7 years until the orings dry out and start cracking. Oil and grease only attracts dirt and dust.
Great video, I have Owned Numerous big CC Metric bikes. Current bike sitting in my garage is a 2024KTM 890 adventure. All those bikes had O-ring type chains, then I switched them over to x ring chains… with proper maintenance, and adjustments I have always exceeded 25,000 miles on chains. You just have to remember to do proper chain maintenance, and they will last you a long time.
You can get 25k miles without doing "proper maintenance," the 500 mile regimen some people think is necessary. The new top quality chains are very tough.
great video, thank you. Have you done an episode on chain lube? I used to use spray on lube, including the waxy sort and eventually stopped using them as they make a mess of the bike. Instead I use just clean engine oil.
Oh my... Your Lab skills and careful yet understandable speaking cleared out our minds up. Thank you ,Mate!
Unsealed on my low Hp XT225-I believe the lower friction helps..o rings on all the bigger bikes...
Curious about the difference in metal composition as well. What alloys make for stronger chains that stretch less and allow for more hp? Other than size, i’m sure a motogp bikes chain is under far more stress than a r3, how is that?
great video bud 👍🏾
thank you.. now i have some understanding about chain on my bike
There is another way to lubricate the unsealed chain, with better results. Remove and clean the chain well, with diesel or gasoline and a brush. Place it rolled up in a round, flat and shallow metal bowl. An old frying pan works great. Cover the chain with SAE 90 oil and heat it all in a water bath for about 1 hour. Let it cool, remove the chain and drain the excess oil. When it cools, the oil thickens again and becomes trapped inside the rollers. Depending on the frequency of use, this lubrication lasts several months. DON'T DO THIS with sealed chains!...
Unsealed on my drag bike, o-ring on my street bikes. I lube the drag bike chain with WD40. Sounds nuts, but when oiled before every day at the track, It works well and stays clean, keeping everything clean. Less friction as tacky lube well. A generous spray and a quick wipe, good to go. And she gets a new chain every season, with sprockets as needed. Probably could go longer on the chain depending on the season. But I'm constantly changing things up on her, which requires different lengths, so that too.
On the Oring street bike, cleaning and a spritz of lube every ~500 miles, usually more often cause it gets gross. I feel like my main concern with this one is cleanliness and keeping the sprocket and roller contact surface lubed.
Tsubaki HQR Super but they stopped making them, but I'm a hoarder so I have spares.
I think their best chain is called a RQ1 now.
Tsubaki chains are getting harder to find in the US for some reason.
Which chain do you think he gonna use for Honda CBR project
Only the best for a superbike
I’ve installed an X ring chain on my Interceptor 650 & it’s performing very good
PTFE lube is the bomb for bike chains. I hardly have to do chain adjustments anymore. PB Blaster or WD40 dry lube are equally great.
What is the best chain/ o ring, x ring & nomal chain ? Low price , long life time use , strong , high speed , low weight , what chain ?
FYI, the example for non-sealed chain shown at 1:17 is a suzuki gixxer 150cc and it comes with an O-Ring chain
It CAN come with any of the above and different markets will actually have different ones.. If you live in a Salt belt area, you likely got an X/O ring chain, if you live in a very dry area where you dont get Snow and Salt.. your bike may not come with one.. Arizona for example.. you get a cheap "NO" ring chain lol. this is the same with cars.. many different markets and such.. look into Subarus 2002-2007 lower control arm recall, it only effected certain models sold in rust belt states.. not ones the were sold in "nice" areas..
The original chain on my KLR started slinging rollers at about 9000 miles, put a RK o ring chain on and it has 9000 miles (18000 between the two) and still looks new.every now and then I Wash it off with Castrol super clean and a water hose then lube it with a mixture of about 40% whatever motor oil is handy and 60% lucas oil treatment one link at a time, let it drip for a while then touch it up with a rag.the Lucas is kind clingy and helps it stick around.
I have run x rings for years. Worth the little bit of extra money for that clean rolling feeling. They tend to last a little longer as well
Thanks buddy, I wish you could have gone deeper to emphasize exactly where to lube the sealed chain. It is still grey area as to whether to lube the rollers or the seals themselves. That would complete the chapter.
Hey bro love the channel great information and easy to understand 👍
Kerosene and a plastic grunge brush to clean. Chain Wax on my O-Ring chains.
Kerosene starts playing...
WD-40 also works pretty well to clean all the grunge off. Kerosene is a safe bet, not going to be too hard on the x/o rings.
Use a better lubricant however. Wax sets up an abrasive paste grit that chews away on everything in a short span of time. Honestly a straight-weight 30 non-detergent motor oil outperforms all the chain lubes on the market, but you have to apply it regularly (like an auto-oiling system). Otherwise, I recommend Motorex Road Strong.
@@exothermal.sprocket Actually DID chains state that kerosene should not be used at all on their X ring chains.
@@paulf2534 It's debatable.
XSR owner's manual says to use a cleaner such as kerosene (paraffin oil). GSXR manuals say basically the same thing. Other manuals have said as much.
DID chains say not to use kerosene.
RK chains say not to use kerosene.
EK chains say USE KEROSENE IF NECESSARY.
Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (HNBR) is what X-rings are made out of. I haven't found a source yet about the effects of kerosene (paraffin oil) contact with HNBR.
I'm going to say based on many manufacturer's service manuals, at least one chain-supplier, that Kerosene isn't going to be a problem.
Kerosene is NOT gasoline, diesel fuel, mineral spirits, brake cleaner, or penetrating solvent.
I just found a chemical exposure compatibility rating list from a rubber manufacturer (Marco Rubber).
Perfluoroelastomer FFKM (excellent
X-ring for street or amateur racers. Now let's apply a little bit of OCD to the equation when it comes to lubrication technique. I noticed in the video on a couple of brief shots displaying someone lubricating from the outside of the chain around the sprocket, while this seems to be a good technique, there is actually a superior technique, and that would be to lubricate from the inner part of the chain links as you spin the rear wheel slowly, this can only be achieved in one area, and that is between the rear sprocket and CS sprocket where you would check for proper chain sag of 11/4". This measurement will change over time as the chain and sprockets wear leaving high and low spots as a chain rotates. Finding a happy medium is key to the successful life of the components.
What is the quietest, lightest chain for an E Moto? I tried a Non O Ring Gold Series for my E Ride Pro on a 60 tooth sprocket with 16 inch rear wheel. Tested it out yesterday and it was annoying loud at speed... Any thoughts on the matter greatly appreciated! Thank you!
X Ring chain on my MC22 and NC35, Clean with Kero and plastic brush, then lube with high weifht gear oil as per Honda spec. Used gear oil all my life, cheapest and most effective lubricant option
I used the standard chain for a while, the bike ran much better, but the problem was the lube, the rear tire was getting lubricated as well because the amount of lubricant was necessary.
Lube the chain then wipe for the excess, your chain should not be dripping wet.
Spray the inside of the chain not the outside so the lube dosent get flung straight off onto your tyre.
In my younger years, I had a few bikes with chains, not anymore, I am very very happy with my Harley Heritage which is belt driven this is so nice that also my ebike is one with a belt instead of a chain. Of course, as everyone will know by now, I have no desire to go on a race track 🙂
The X-ring seems to be narrower (VS O-ring) as well so the bending moment on the pins is reduced and puts the pins closer to a pure shear condition. A non-sealed chain would seem to be the strongest configuration if all other things are equal since the links are practically up against each other. Obviously the seals provide a huge benefit for longevity of life.
I'd have thought a race team would just use plain unsealed chain and put a brand new one on every race.
Some race teams actually do
Are the all chains compatible with all types of gears/sprockets ?
No. Some older British bikes (my 1978 Triumph, for example) don't have enough clearance either side of the gear box sprocket for sealed chains, which are slightly wider.
I think the biggest issue is the size of the chain. Eg 525, 500, 420 etc. I use 525 and find they resist stretching better than lower massed chains. I do maintain them regularly with brushing and lubing.
I don’t ride street bikes but for my quads and dirt bikes I just use motor oil to lube them with a square paint brush. Rather it’s sealed or unsealed I’ve never had a problem.
Very well explained. Thank you for the video.
My Grom has an unsealed chain while my Hypermotard 950SP has a D.I.D. o-ring chain. What I have notice is the that the o-rings are getting frazzled. The latter doesn't have that many mile ~8,880. BTW: I have been viewing your videos for a few years; there are rarely any humans anywhere!
I got 31000 miles on of my O ring chain before I replaced it. So I'll keep with the same O ring style chain.
Very informative video. Please make more videos on these basic stuffs like this.
Got a couple small bikes, TBR7 dual-sport and Boom Vader (Grom Clone), both have o-ring-less to get more power to the back wheel. That's my thinking. Just a little extra chain care for the extra rear-wheel power.
I have a standard (unsealed) chain on my small displacement bike-- its cheap and tough enough and will not sap hp from my already small engine, lol.
I adjust every 500-700kms and clean just as often but its all good. I use WD-40 to dissolve the gun and then use soapy wooder with a grunge brush to detail it. Wash it down with water then blast it with air.
I've got it down to a tee and I honestly enjot doing it.
Why some part of my o ring chains are getting locked up.. even if i prequently cleat it up 😢
Scottoiler and don't look back. I haven't had to clean or lube a chain in ages and the reservoir lasts about 1,000 miles and takes about 5 min to refill. On top of taking chain maintenance away, it constantly cleans the chain. At 20,000 miles on my current chain and it's never moved. Last chain went 50,000 with no adjustment needed, it just finally started spitting out orings.
The 525 x-ring chain is the longevity-based, durable no-brainer.
The expensive racing 520 x-ring chain is the lightweight, somewhat reduced longevity, high performance no-brainer. It's amazing how much power the high-tensile 520 can take for those concerned about the least weight, least drag, least influence on suspension action (usually coupled with high hardness alloy sprocket).
Those in drag racing that want all advantages they can get? They strip out the x-rings (or o-rings) with a metal pick, they install 520 high tensile chain, they install hard alloy sprockets, they install ceramic wheel bearings (offer a much improved reduction of rotational drag), install carbon fiber wheels, and delete the rear brake rotor and caliper.
My question is does cleaning O ring chain with diesel causes any issues?
I feel like the unsealed would be the best for me, I'd just swap it more regularly. I ride a SBK btw.
Is there something wrong with my thinking ?
Thank you for the knowledge.❤
the friction on x-ring chain is higher, not lower! Because the contact points are more between moving parts. It helps to keep dirt from inner greased parts. That makes less maintenance and longer chain life
X-ring here on my CBR1000RR. I need a chain that will last a long distance. It may be a sport bike but I use it strictly for touring. My last trip was almost 12,000 Km's and having a chain issue a long way from home gets expensive when you have to get a dealer to do it and if you have to spend an extra night or two at your motel. Replacing a chain in a motel parking lot is not my idea of a good time. And the tools and spare chain are a bit heavy to pack.
W chain, petrol to clean, engine oil to lube...
Use diesel fuel to clean the chain and gear oil SAE90 for lubrication.
I have heard of a chain that utilizes a needle roller design and O-rings...
Could you please lean in on this, as I think that its a marvelous wsy to do things.
I have been riding Harleys and Buells for 56 years and over the past couple of decades my bikes have worn belts, and my current belt is at 80,000 miles, still good...but a bugger to replace so the chain I am mentioning may come next.
Thank you!
I Ride Quads.
Mine have the O-Ring Style Chains on them.
I see the Benefits-Ring Chain, but I don't think I will see any performance of the X-Ring Chain on A Quad.
I like the 360 Camera Video, I might have to get me one of them for my Quad Trail Rides.
Great Video Presentation!
On my 2005 Yamaha MT-01 (1670 Cc V-Twin naked bike) I most certainly have an X-Ring Chain and nothing else. If a better product comes available, I will switch, but it has to be better and the price should be in proportion to the improvement over the x-ring chain.
Great content. Thanks ❤
Moore Mafia normally uses smaller chains 520 in place of 525 and I guess chains with less friction will make sense for hp gain .
All my bikes have x rings chains. They're not really all that more expensive. Worthy upgrades.
I have the powerparts unsealed chain on my ktm excf, the xring was 40€ more. Im happy with my choice beacause i dont mind cleaning more often and the engine can transfer more power.
Going to buy a Lifan KP 350 fore street use mainly and will get a X ring or similar for it !!
Just about to fit O Ring chain to my 650 meteor so see how we go in Australia 😊
I ised to have a chain drive on my 1990 Harley Sportster - an 883 model bored out to 1200 - and it ate chains and sprockets ( two chains to one sprocket change) even though I cleaned and lubed every 250 miles - chains would last 3k miles at best.
Then I fitted a belt drive for about the same cost as 2 chains and one set of sprockets.... the belt lasted 40k miles and I only changed it as I refurbished the bike, using the first set of pulleys !
No regular maintenance, no re- tensioning every two weeks and no having to clean all the rear of the bike every month.....
That is because Harley never used a Kush drive hub like everyone else.
@@deltabluesdavidraye Yes, you are right there but no cush-drive makes the bike feel 'raw and wild'..... belt drives act as a bit of a cush drive as they are just glass (or Kevlar) re-inforced plastic anyway !
People say they aren't strong enough but as most Harleys are well under 100bhp then the belt is good enough if kept clean and used with good belt guards to prevent stone damage. I hot-rodded a Dyna to over 100bhp and torque and the belt lasted 60k miles easily.
@thakery5720 regardless Harley needed a Kush drive hub like everyone else and never did it.Royal Enfield invented the Kush drive hub back in the 40's and every bike manufacturer with sense soon used it.
@@deltabluesdavidraye Well from the tone of the last part of your reply it's obvious that you are a 'Harley hater' so I'll take the time to explanin to you that as Harleys are so heavy and the engines make so much torque then the 'conventional' type of cush drive simply won't last very long. H-D fitted shock absorber type engine pulleys to bikes for many years but as the engines grew larger they proved to be somewhat impractical and unable to handle the amount of torqe needed to move such heavy bikes.... this is why belt drives were adopted as apart from lower maintenance needed, they also offer a modicum of 'cush' as it is often called.
Now you will probably reply that H-D should make smaller, lighter bikes and they are doing so nowadays for riders who only embark on shorter journeys but they still make bigger and heavier bikes for those who prefer a more comfortable ride especially over longer distances and enjoy the comfort of a heavier bike..... No they are not as agile, and no they are not very practical as 'ride-to-work' vehicles but I can assure you they offer a level of comfort that is only equaled by larger touring bikes from other manufacturers who use different drive systems to chains so as to avoid the high maintenace needed on chain driven vehicles.
I wonder have you ever tried doing a two or three thousand mile journey on a chain driven bike that is carrying a passenger and camping gear ?.... a chain driven bike, with or without a cush drive is impractical due to the amount of maintenance needed over the journey.
One further point is that rear pulleys with such a cush-drive need more frequent maintenance as the Japenese find on their Harleys which due to import laws in Japan must be fitted with cush drives - when they wear out, the owners replace those pulleys with non-cushdrive ones so as to make the bikes less labour intensive. The sort of cushdrive wheel hubs most bikes use just can't handle the high torque figures produced by Harleys - belts are a cheap and easy way to go as they are comparitively maintenance free !
I use belt drive ! Informative video ❤
Use an automated chain oiling system, and you can get your chain to last up to three times longer than just regular cleaning and lubrication.
What is with HPE ? DLC Chains ?
Kerosene for cleaning and Motul C2+ for lubrication.
My wife rode a dr200 ro work for 6 years. Daily. I ended up using the x ring chain and pb blaster. We lived in the carribbean and had extremely limited access to good stuff. The x ring and pb combo was hands down the best combo available. I oiled it every other day and we would get 8000 miles out of a chain. O ring chains i got 3 to 5 thousand depending on brand and oil. Had to get a non sealed chain once as money was non existent once. Got about 2 thousand miles and it practically fell off the bike. The x ring gets my vote.
I got an x ring chain on my crf250l.
It basically made my maintenance intervals like a car.
Id probably spend the extra money again because the crf is already underpowered.
Current bike 1983 XT250. Normal old chain here. Spray it with some WD40 sometimes. I like it basically dry, stays clean that way. My bike has drum brakes so not worried about overspray heck I give the whole darn thing the WD treatment after a wash.
何を言ってるのかは理解できなかったけど映像だけでも内容は理解できた
素晴らしい編集
My ordinary unsealed stock chain last 22k km without cleaning. I just put oil all the time. I hope the heavy duty version which is thicker will last more than my previous chain.
Is there a way to differentiate them visually? I have a 2007 cbr1000rr but I don't know what it comes with.
Yes, you can at least tell if it's a sealed chain just by looking at it. You will see the seals between the inner and outer plates
@@mad082sss Ah it's my bad I meant between o-ring and x-ring
what is stamped on the chain links?
or you can look at the rings
O / X / W
Suzuki Gixxer 155 and 250 have O-ring chain by the way
I used O ring chain on my Cagiva 500's. They are heavier. The amount of drag from an O ring is huge. I'd guess 3hp or so in friction loss. Even going down hill you lose speed where a conventional chain will let you coast or gain speed. I stopped using them. And an O ring chain can rust. Even my Regina chain. I soak my chains in used motor oil. the longer the better. Let them drip dry for a day. easier in the summer when it's warm. This works far better than using chain lube. I do use chain lube, but not often. For about 50 yrs.
using sealed chains might cost u more if u dont clean then correctly with incorrect cleaning chemical or not brushing enough to dust it out.
the chain might have some paralized links and it cannot be fixed.
My old 2011 xj6 diversion has x-rings