This is great thanks! The only thing is sometimes you say a term but that's not what it is in the settings. You said -1 when it was actually 0 for switch tracked subjects. And you said enable for eye detection but its auto. Small things in the best video review I've seen for AF in the camera I bought!
Great video , I used this to guide my way through some talking head/ product demo AF settings video. I posted it on my channel and was sure to tag you , hope you don’t mind. Lmk if you do. Shoot on brother, great work as always!
thanks for your summary. I have been using the R6II for moving subjects (dance) and it is quite usable, but not nearly as precise and programmable as say Sony FX3. The fact that there exist lengthy and detailed tutorials on Sony cameras tends to show that they have adopted a more video-centered focusing system. I still prefer the R6II as it is usually reliable and feels "organic" and quite smooth with a moving camera and subject, but the control of the focus options is more sketchy.
Does it not track as well for the moving dancing subjects then? And I get you, the Sony’s are better video cameras imo. I just love the canon system and the colors are just amazing out of camera (even in clog 3 with the canon lut).
I shoot stills 99% of the time. It took me a while to dial in what settings work for birds in flight. Your suggestions here sound great. Do you know if I make changes to the tracking and subject settings while the switch is in movie position (or using the movie menu), will it change for my still shots? If you don't know, I guess we'll just write down every setting that is working and experiment. (Hey Canon. Next add a section to Canon Connect that will back up a few shooting profiles. I know you're not Canon. Perhaps I will write them.) Thanks!
This was very helpful, thank you! I'm planning on purchasing the r6 instead of the r6 mark ii - that is unless the r6 mark ii happens to have significantly better autofocus for video (specifically for people, I'm not too concerned about the upgrade to shoot birds or zebras, etc). I think the only feature that matters to me that is on the mark ii and not the mark i is the one that prevents focus on the background when the subject leaves the frame. That alone I think I could live without, however, if the two are comparable with autofocus otherwise. Do you have any experience with the r6 when it comes to video autofocus? I'm mainly concerned with keeping people in focus during slow-ish camera movements and holding it when people turn their heads away from the camera and when other object pass in front of them. My eos r will get confused in those circumstances. Thank you!
I had the original r6 and never had problems with focusing tbh. I havent noticed much of an upgrade when I got the R6ii, but my subject is mainly people as well, not animals.
There should be an option on the screen that reads “touch to shutter” or something. If that is enabled then touching the screen will take photos. So disable that
I would increase the speed of the Autofocus, and depending if you need to switch between players quickly, then I would increase the speed of the subject switching as well.
Landscapes are much simpler since they are not moving. So the default focus settings work fine. If you want the image to be sharp and clear then that would mean having an aperture around f8 or f11 so that everything stays on focus while you pan. Hope this helps!
Im having trouble doing autofocus for group shots doing video. do you have any tips or settings for focusing big groups without it focusing just one person. thanks!!
I can do a video on this but for the short version here: The camera can only focus on one person, but you can drop the aperture to f8 or so to get the most deep depth of field, which will help keep more people in focus.
@@MrLijit Make sure your focus area is on Whole Screen and not spot focus or something like that. Should be in the AF menu, choose AF area, and make sure its whole screen.
Hi! After setting these settings I realised that if example an object like a tree or even using my hand to simulate someone walking by using using the "tap on screen focus point" it will at times if slow enough start to untrack the subject in the background. Is this supposed to happen?
You can adjust the settings to either stay locked on the subject in the back. Or to switch over to the new object that covers them. I believe its the locked on setting
@@BrunoPozo4Real I set both the AF settings to the lock on setting instead of responsive but it will still shift focus to the subject that moves into frame. Unless I turn off the Movie Servo.
@@AKSKMY Yeah you can also pause Movie servo but that seems odd. It usually takes awhile for it to switch focus for me, luckily it isnt an issue often so maybe I never noticed it.
For group or environments where you want more objects/people in focus you would increase your aperture value. So F8-F22 for more of the depth of the image in focus
Perfect for a person like me, a still-shooter looking to add video skills. Thank you!
I’m so glad I could help! Have fun shooting
Very helpful! I got my r6 mkii yesterday so can't wait to start using it!
That’s exciting! I remember I was stoked when I got my Canon R6II as well
@@BrunoPozo4Real coming from a crop 7dmkii that ive had for 8 years... It's going to be a whole new world!😍
This is one of the best AutoFocus videos I've seen so far, thank you!!!
Glad I could help!
This is great thanks! The only thing is sometimes you say a term but that's not what it is in the settings. You said -1 when it was actually 0 for switch tracked subjects. And you said enable for eye detection but its auto. Small things in the best video review I've seen for AF in the camera I bought!
Ahh yeah I was going off of memory and I just recall dialing up or down haha. My apologies for the confusion. Thank you for the kind words :)
Great video , I used this to guide my way through some talking head/ product demo AF settings video. I posted it on my channel and was sure to tag you , hope you don’t mind. Lmk if you do. Shoot on brother, great work as always!
Thank you so much
Ill have to check it out
Thanks for this video Bruno! Greetz from Belgium
You’re very welcome! Awesome to have connected all the way to Belgium 🥳
Thanks ❤
Happy to help!
super helpful! thanks!
Glad I could help
Man am I glad I found this channel!
Thank you for the kind words, I’m glad I could help
Top!! Great video 🙏🏻 Grazie
De nada
👍👍👍 SUPER
Thank you
Thank you!! Nice video!!!
Thank you, glad I could help.
thanks for your summary. I have been using the R6II for moving subjects (dance) and it is quite usable, but not nearly as precise and programmable as say Sony FX3. The fact that there exist lengthy and detailed tutorials on Sony cameras tends to show that they have adopted a more video-centered focusing system. I still prefer the R6II as it is usually reliable and feels "organic" and quite smooth with a moving camera and subject, but the control of the focus options is more sketchy.
Does it not track as well for the moving dancing subjects then?
And I get you, the Sony’s are better video cameras imo. I just love the canon system and the colors are just amazing out of camera (even in clog 3 with the canon lut).
Great tips dear
Glad I could help
Great Video!
Ty so much!
good job
Thanks Shawn
I shoot stills 99% of the time. It took me a while to dial in what settings work for birds in flight. Your suggestions here sound great. Do you know if I make changes to the tracking and subject settings while the switch is in movie position (or using the movie menu), will it change for my still shots? If you don't know, I guess we'll just write down every setting that is working and experiment. (Hey Canon. Next add a section to Canon Connect that will back up a few shooting profiles. I know you're not Canon. Perhaps I will write them.) Thanks!
Settings in one mode will not affect the other. So setting up video settings will not change your photo ones.
Hope this helps, cheers!
@@BrunoPozo4Real Thank you!
This was very helpful, thank you! I'm planning on purchasing the r6 instead of the r6 mark ii - that is unless the r6 mark ii happens to have significantly better autofocus for video (specifically for people, I'm not too concerned about the upgrade to shoot birds or zebras, etc). I think the only feature that matters to me that is on the mark ii and not the mark i is the one that prevents focus on the background when the subject leaves the frame. That alone I think I could live without, however, if the two are comparable with autofocus otherwise. Do you have any experience with the r6 when it comes to video autofocus? I'm mainly concerned with keeping people in focus during slow-ish camera movements and holding it when people turn their heads away from the camera and when other object pass in front of them. My eos r will get confused in those circumstances. Thank you!
I had the original r6 and never had problems with focusing tbh.
I havent noticed much of an upgrade when I got the R6ii, but my subject is mainly people as well, not animals.
How can I disable it the screen took photos after I touch it? R6 Mark ii please 🙏
There should be an option on the screen that reads “touch to shutter” or something. If that is enabled then touching the screen will take photos. So disable that
@@BrunoPozo4Real yeah works appreciate it!!
Good tutorial. For the lens, do you choose MF or AF?
For Autofocus choose AF
Does this settings apply on a soccer match for example? What do you recommend on that case? thanks
I would increase the speed of the Autofocus, and depending if you need to switch between players quickly, then I would increase the speed of the subject switching as well.
@@BrunoPozo4Real thank you very much
@@felipeescobedo4684 happy to help!
Hi, Bruno. When shooting landscape videos, how to set up R6 to be very clear and sharp, especially when panning?
Landscapes are much simpler since they are not moving. So the default focus settings work fine. If you want the image to be sharp and clear then that would mean having an aperture around f8 or f11 so that everything stays on focus while you pan.
Hope this helps!
@@BrunoPozo4Real Thank you. I will try to work out.
Im having trouble doing autofocus for group shots doing video. do you have any tips or settings for focusing big groups without it focusing just one person. thanks!!
I can do a video on this but for the short version here:
The camera can only focus on one person, but you can drop the aperture to f8 or so to get the most deep depth of field, which will help keep more people in focus.
@@BrunoPozo4Real thats what i figure. but what about in low lighting? does this mean i just need to raise ISO? thanks!!
@@magicari yep, in that case you need to raise ISO or add light to the scene. Ideally bring in light but I know that isnt always possible.
@@BrunoPozo4Real would turning off servo auto mode just make it focus on the wide grid area and not specifically faces? thanks again!
@@magicari Servo Auto mode is the name for auto focus. So turning it off will just turn off auto focus.
Nice explanation👍👍, one doubt is there any option to touch and focus in video mode?
You can touch to focus on video. That’s mainly how I do it actually.
@@BrunoPozo4Real oh really. . Then I think something wrong with mine. Is there any setting to be activated?
@@BrunoPozo4Real oh really? I think something wrong with mine. Is there any settings to be activated?
@@MrLijit Make sure your focus area is on Whole Screen and not spot focus or something like that. Should be in the AF menu, choose AF area, and make sure its whole screen.
Hi! After setting these settings I realised that if example an object like a tree or even using my hand to simulate someone walking by using using the "tap on screen focus point" it will at times if slow enough start to untrack the subject in the background. Is this supposed to happen?
You can adjust the settings to either stay locked on the subject in the back. Or to switch over to the new object that covers them.
I believe its the locked on setting
@@BrunoPozo4Real I set both the AF settings to the lock on setting instead of responsive but it will still shift focus to the subject that moves into frame. Unless I turn off the Movie Servo.
@@AKSKMY Yeah you can also pause Movie servo but that seems odd. It usually takes awhile for it to switch focus for me, luckily it isnt an issue often so maybe I never noticed it.
What if I want to record a soccer game and have everyone in focus at all times, what settings? Should I turn Movie Servo OFF?
For group or environments where you want more objects/people in focus you would increase your aperture value. So F8-F22 for more of the depth of the image in focus
@@BrunoPozo4Real I see, do I keep Servo ON?
And which Area, point area, whole area?
Keep Servo On, that's just the name for autofocus. And leave it on whole area so that it can focus anywhere on your screen. Cheers @@royaltykidstv
@@BrunoPozo4Real thank you
Can anyone please help ?
Why does my menu look different?
My only guess is if the camera body is different, the mode is not in video, or if you are not in manual mode. Hope this helps
@@BrunoPozo4Real thank you so much!! maybe I need to update the firmware. I will try. 🙏
ooh that is also another possibility. Good luck! @@user-ou2rm6hn3n
might be that you have not updated to the most recent Firrmware update.. or the video is using an older version..
@@user-rx9kf4il5o good call! It might be a firmware issue.