@@richardrussell4065 yea anything below 3000 i wouldnt do on my peraonal car because i cant fix broken clear but at my job i go low as 400 grit i work at mercedes benz and spray those cars and maybachs
@@mattsmagicdetailtechDang, was the grizzly in Idaho? Which part, do you remember the area or campground? (I live in Idaho and the wife and I are going out camping soon…)
This is the kind of paint correction I enjoy. Most of my cars are 10 plus years old (My driveway looks like I won the lottery in 2005) So with all my old junk, this is the kind of stuff I do all the time. Picking up a few hints here and there is always nice.
As far as the sandpaper in a bucket goes... You soak it in hot water for 15 mins or so before hand, it softens the paper so there are no sharp edges when it's wrapped around a sanding block.
I have a 99 Tacoma ex cab. I was looking at videos on buffing out scratches and saw your video. You did a great job. My truck is black and no where near as bad as the one on your video. I now have faith and more confidence that I can make my truck look better. Thanks
No bro. You’ve never detailed a black car before then🤦🏽♂️ When they’re scratched the light is being reflected at a million different angles. I actually read your comment before watching - was very disappointed and then realized you just had no idea what you’re talking about. AFTER he was finished, you can see how the black paint was only a reflection/image of exactly what was surrounding it. Meaning the paint no longer had a million little scuffs and scratches. Now, he didn’t show the scratch - and I’d bet that one was too deep to remove. But he did a phenomenal job. But that paint NEEDS to be coated like crazy with ceramic coat or respirated with clear because the remaining clear was taken down many layers and is probably super thin.
@@9595david lol - I've never detailed a Black car? Do your homework before talking outta your ass. I've done plenty and I show my work in direct sunlight. Yes - this was 100% smoke and mirrors. He Hit it with intense lighting to show the defects, yes, he removed a few of them, then hit it with dim lighting so the defects left behind won't show.
@@GOAT_Shine_Conot sure what you’re smoking dude. A 3k wet sand and then thorough buff and polish isn’t smoke and mirrors🤦🏽♂️ it’s a literal DAY and night difference! He showed the entire job/process but because he used 1 less light you’re hating?💀💀💀
@@9595david never said the process was smoke and mirrors. Learn to read. What is smoke and mirrors is the different lighting that was used to show the before & after. Going from bright lights to dimly lit lights IS smoke and mirrors. It's not an equal compare/contrast. Yes it looks better. But he's making his work appear better than it actually is by not showing the results in the same lighting as he did the work was started. With paint correction - lighting is everything when it comes to highlighting defects AND showing your results.
@@HawkProDetailing Hi @Hawk Pro Detailing can u help me out with this question. I have a vehicle I did but I noticed the coumpound haze were not coming out with the polish the step that I did is at the bottom 👇 can u read it and tell me what I did wrong. I buff a vehicle similar to yours I did not wet sand it thoe but had similar scratches and swirl makes it didn't had holograms thoe so I use a course coumpound with a 6 inch dual action polisher with a 6 inch compound pad 4 time it took me to take out all the swirl,after that I use a panel wipe that remove coumpound and polish residue, then I polish it with a polish pad to remove compound haze that were created from removing swirl marks so I polish it 2 time to get the gloss and to remove the haze and when I finish I use a panel wipe again to remove the polish residue before I ceramic it but I noticed that it stail have compound haze. Is it because I remove all the polish residue but i had to ceramic it And a next question when finish polishing vehicle do I need to use panel wipe before using sealant and wax or it just for ceramic coating
LOL! haha I feel like polishing techniques vary and this method doesn't always work but if the paint likes it thank God cause the cutting took forever. I'm gonna call it that from now on...and now it's time for the wild man 🤣
I would have liked to see the same two bright lights you used to show the swirl marks, in a similar position to show the end result as well. That would be an honest comparison, since light is what makes swirls and scratches visible to the eye in the first place.
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to make this video. I'm just a hobbyist who works on his own cars, but your natural things like "weight of the machine" and other simple tips really helped me understand each level and capability really well.
Amazing skill level. I use KochChemie heavy cut compound for serious paint correction as well. It remains slick and has a slow breakdown and low heat action. I prefer Rupes pads for all my higher level detail work.
That's why I think sometimes for my 17 years old vw properly clean, contamination, clay and heavy cut. Finally after that, let see what exactly I should repair. Otherwise through all swirls can't see a lot. Of course stone chips have to be fix etc. What do you think?
I've worked on far worse but that is messed up. Great job Nick. PS are you using encapsulation tech for the interior carpets and fabric seats as if so you wouldn't need the anti wicking product. Never have sandpaper in a bucket of water and or water/soap and keep dipping your sandpaper into the bucket then continue sanding, that's a good way to put in marks in the paint. sand with a spray bottle via hand. damp or dry by machine. Micro Mesh, 3M Trizact, Kovax Super Buflex dry aka Eagle abrasives in the USA are my go to sanding materials. Mirka is apparently quite good too. Up to 12,000 grit if you want to go mad. Kovax super buflex black dry discs finish out so shallow it's ridiculous.
@@kg_1720 Yeah the safe thing to do is have a body shop re-clear and wetsand the whole car prior to polishing. I have a friend who did this on an older Modena that had been through the wringer, looked absolutely amazing afterwards, but I mean, this is a truck.
Thanks my dude! Yes that's the problem with striving for "showroom" ...if you actually drive a vehicle, it will get swirls and scratches. So much crud on the road, so many weather factors we can't control. Even the most diligent detailers inflict some damage on paint with hand washes. Basically you want to touch your paint as little as possible as a rule...but also, don't lose your mind over this because if every little thing upsets you it's easy to go insane 😂 unless it's in a museum a car will get scratches
@@HawkProDetailing ohh i know! Im already at that point. I literally wanna beat the crap out of my car after a wash and swirls are every where. Im at the point that im putting it up for sale.
for my car, as a detailer. i understand that, its an infiniti q50, with midnight purple paint so i want to keep it prestine. but lets say i had a more expensive car, something like a bmw or a porsche, id highly recommend PPF (paint protection film), you will never get and swirls and if you do, use a heat gun and itll come right out without even having to touch the car
@Dee Do you bring it to the car wash? Because the bristle brushes they use can put swirl marks on your car. If you arent already then try using a microfiber wash mitt. And wash in straight lines in the direction that the wind would be blowing on your car while driving.
Micro mark makes a cloth sanding set that runs from 1800 to 140000 for scale model work. I just did a pretty jacked up sport track and the soft backing allowed for a very clean hand sanding. Found my new hand sanding process..
Wayyyy too many hour lol. Not recommending this for detailers who need to be turning vehicles faster, but this was what the customer was paying for and he was stoked
Hi, I seem to be getting some haze after using Carpro Reflect with finishing foam pad on DA polisher. I did the cutting stage with a Shinemate cutting foam pad (diamond pattern) and 3D One hybrid compound, which removed most of the marring and waterspots, but after doing the finishing step with Reflect, it seem to leave some haze on some areas, especially around the edges of the section I am working on and around the body lines, which I thought was just stubborn residue since it is also very hard to wipe off after IPA spray. What do recommend me to do? My car is a black metallic Honda (soft paint), I work in a garage but its hot and humid here. May I know what speed setting do you usually use when finishing, and how many passes do you need to do? This is my first go at polishing, could be the technique or it could be the pads. Appreciate the help, Thanks!
I have been following you for a few years, and your interior videos changed how I clean cars, not a detailed, but a mechanic that likes returning customers vehicles better than we get them, so thanks for the help. Now I am getting into buying a few used cars, and flipping them. Currently working on one that has not had TLC in a long time, and will be trying paint correction. I have been watching the videos you have put out, and this one dropped at great time, as I wanted to know what’s compounds you were using and found the best in the current market, questioned answered. However, what Polisher would you recommend, I saw you posted one in this video as a beginner, and the ShineMate was mentioned in the last video, it is still out of stock. I have been looking at all the ones you have used, and wanted your advice. Thanks for the great videos, and since you ask where everyone is from in some videos, Indiana.
Aww man thanks Joe! What part of Indiana? Man the whole first polisher to buy question is tough...what are your goals with it? Is it for Joe or for the business to be profitable? My first thought is the duetto...just because it is cheaper than the mark ii and is pretty beginner friendly. The way to learn paint correction is just by putting time in, people always recommend a test hood for practice first. But if you don't want rupes there is max shine and griots etc...I haven't tried those yet
@@HawkProDetailing Southern Indiana, just across the river from Louisville, KY. As for the business, my main business is auto repair, and is an established company, so I get cars all the time that are beyond what a customer wants to put into them. I have flipped a few in the past, using basic chemicals from auto parts stores, and turned out okay. I have purchased a heated extractor, as I can use that in my main business in case any grease gets onto the carpet when we are doing interior repairs, and your videos of interior have guided me through a best practices to use. The trick with the hoods is easy as I have a few old cars in my storage lot I can salvage off of to play around with. I will look at the duetto, I had looked at the max shine, but not sure when it will be back in stock. I did go ahead and order the 5 inch pads and chemicals you recommended here, as they were low stock, so wanted to make sure I had those taken care of. Thanks so much for the response, and the videos.
The koch system red and purple is great. Max shine is different than shine mate lol. Max shine seems like good bang for the buck. Teick with paint correction is to clean pad often. Flipping cars is good money! If you can at least shine up paint and do a headlight restoration and extract carpets and clean up interior flips are great money with used car market right now
@@HawkProDetailing Thanks never had seen Max Shine, and their site has lots of organizational things, I can use in my home shop and professional one. I went with the Duetto, as it seems to be a good tool at a decent price, I prefer paying for quality tools, hell I have more Snap-On tools and Mac Tools than I care to admit. Yeah I do headlight restoration already, and have for the past few years, I screw one up they are a little cheaper than a trip to body shop to get pain fixed, lol. So trying to learn all I can before doing anything to anything but my own vehicles. Is the pad cleaner from Optimum worth it? Is that more for microfiber and wool pads?
The MOMENT you see pigtails, STOP and either clean your sandpaper or replace it. Depending on where you are in progress in a certain section, it actually might be better to clean the paper you have, as that piece has a new grit compared to a fresh Icee of identical paper. First try wiping it away with the clean cloth you should always have at hand, dry cloth for dry sanding, wet for wet. You’d be surprised how much crap comes off the paper just by wiping it away. But the topic of pigtails. Pigtails come from one thing and one thing only. Bits attached to your sandpaper which are now additional and random grit on your paper. These can be anything, but most often it’s bits of paint which have become dislodged, either from the heat of sanding or having bad adhesion in the first place. On OEM paint this is usually just where contaminants have attached themselves to a bit of OEM paint and the sanding action pulls it all up and out, sometimes leaving a new tiny dimple or hole in the paint. Go back to the days of the Spirograph toy and you’ll see how that spec of basically resin leaves it’s mark in your sanding pattern. Bad stuff, as you now have to sand away the marks which you just made while trying to sand away the marks that were already there, taking away yet more of the PRECIOUS clear or paint base coat. Every single little bit is crucial. Ask me how I know? I always though pigtails we’re just a function of the grit of the paper and the speed at which you moved the machine. It seemed like when I moved the machine faster I got more pigtails. Wrong. It’s just that the other parts of the paper would sand away the pigtails while the pigtail culprit was diminishing or breaking off, and guess what, that was yet again causing more problems. The whole idea is to GET RID of the baddies. I’ve gotten to where I might sand for ten seconds and stop and remove crap from the paper. So be it. That time is a great investment and the returns will be huge, in that you won’t have to spend even more time sanding away the sanding mistakes you actually inflicted upon the surface while trying to fix the surface. As a good doctor says, “do no harm”, that’s virtually impossible when doing any type of touch up or correcting paint, old or new. You are destroying the paint/clear such that the underlying destruction is uniform, then polishing that surface to a nice shine with ever more refined grain until the eye can no longer see the difference between one valley and another. “We will invade that country, level it’s infrastructure, and rebuild it to our own liking!” Turns out our liking isn’t orange peel or anything we don’t perceive as mirror-like, all the while the paint was more protective overall and would retain the most longevity if left alone. Excepting obvious real damage penetrating the primer coat of course. Even then, SOME older OEM primers can absorb water and must be covered with something, preferably a color matching paint to protect the body from rust or corrosion. We destroy to rebuild. This dude did an excellent job. Been there. Not done that so we’ll plenty of times, but my OCD behind looked closer and figured some of this crap out. I’ve even used solvents to get rid of scratches, albeit very, very carefully. How? By reversing the paint process. If the paint got hard after solvents evaporated, then maybe reintroducing solvent to a particular spot would soften the paint enough to reflatteen it. How to do that? Tip of rubber gloved finger. Very, very, very carefully apply a little blending solvent to the tip of your most dexterous finger, with the latex pulled tight, smooth, and clean, and very gently rub(on fresh paint) or firmly (on seasoned paint) to soften and smooth the scratch. Call it chemical non-sanding sanding. It works. Obviously protect the surrounding surfaces to prevent any drips of the solvent or you will have much bigger problems. Ask me how I know. Well……….
After compound stage I use a decent microfiber towel, I kinda prefer plush for this but lots of people swear by short nap. If I have compounded for too many sections...( should wipe off after every section, but sometimes it is what it is lol)...so if I've overextended my self and gone to town on the panel...I'll spray it down with a rinseless wash solution for a little lubrication (after some dwell time) and it tends to break down compound if it gets caked on there. I use rupes coarse da and or koch chemie h9 for da and rotary respectively. If you wipe off after your section both are super easy wipe off. Now...after compounding I really love the klin short nap towel (called zero finish, I did a video on it a few months back) I use it fresh out of the bag and it's amazing for polish removal. Thats when not scratching paint us super important. If I can't reduce streaking during a step I'll use a paint prep to get the panel clean but I don't wipe off compound or polish with prep.. I wipe first and if I'm fighting streaks then a paint prep wipe.. we use prep all in the shop.. but the zero finish use 2 of these on a car and they are about 4 bucks a pop.
I'm curious if it's worth just re painting the car at this point. It looks like it would have saved time if you are sanding the car anyways. How long does the shine last for after a expensive detail job like this?
I always use 1500 on a da w an interface pad and a light touch first. One pass, DRY, nothing crazy. Then 2000 on a soft block by hand w an atomizer bottle. Meguiars ult comp/ wool, and finish w meguiars ult polish/ black pad. Did it for yrs to cut peel, and blend panels. Had one guy ask my why I painted his entire car on a fender+door blend. Tipped me $500 and brought his wife car a month later😂
It does indeed. My paint gage stopped working a little while back, so I try to really look for texture before I do any kind of correction or sanding. If texture is leveled I put on the brakes
Great job sir. The bigger spots, customers need educated on paint and clear coat depth because after such a finish should it be done again and ceramic wears off in a year that it will not be possible. Good to the lowest and leave a bit is best. Speaking from experience and money. Nonetheless, very impressive.
You shouldn't dry sand or use a da if you are working on the paint, it'll ruin it and it'll need to be repainted, unless you're really experienced and know what you're doing
hi, if did you use an orbital sander with 2500 gr I'm sure you save a lot of time I remember when I took my certificate detailer technician y to transform one jeep wrangler 2012, I did already sold in Saudi Arabian,
We charged 1500 for this job. It sort of depends on the customer and if closing the job means you throw something in or drop price a bit. I couldn't do this job for less than 1200 unless I absolutely had no food on the table and the heat was about to be shut off lol. And I would like to get 2000 for the job. You just have to make it work for your business
HELP PLEASE So I recently switched from my rotary DeWalt to rupes 15 inch with 6 " pad Dual polisher Watched bunch of videos and techniques Using blue and yellow rupes pad and blue compound and yellow polished. Took time with one panel . Washed , claybar , sanded gently with 3000 Did step one and two , slow motion , overlap the whole 9 yards And it looked absolutely stunning .....BUT 3 days later I saw it on the sun and 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮 Scratches ( spider ) everywhere, color next to the door I didn't do was too dull as if I am looking through the fog .... I am open to any suggestions and pointers . Understand it is hard without seeing me working it but I figure I would ask anyway . Thank you
i have been watched your videos for a while after watching this video the next few days in guna be my 15 year old black clio sport it got ton of swirls and scratches i want it back to that paint poping 💪
I’m about to have my raven black Cadillac ATS color corrected/wet sanded. What would be an average ballpark estimate for something like this? Also, if I were to get the ceramic coating as well, what would that run me ? I have a few estimates allready I’ve just never had it done before and want to make sure the price is right.
Maybe a dumd question and the reason why I ask is because of the way you see these products advertised differently. So can you use a DA Polisher as also a DA Sander? Also another question I have is regarding the differnt Polishers you use. I see that they say Rotary Polishers. So I assume they are not DA? Last question. I also have see recently polishers that are notated as Forced Rotation. So can you help us explain the differences in these polishers and what scenarios would you use them? Also pros and Cons for each one please? I just Subscribed to your channel and looking forward to more great videos👍😀 Thank you Is one better than the other?
Nice! Is that a Canon M50 you're filming with on your tripod? I use the 1st-gen M50 for my real-estate photography man. Great camera. I'm still watching the video but wanted to comment or I'd forget.
Cheers! Lol is it bad I don't even know🤣 bought it a few years back. I've spent more money on a wireless mic set up (1200) and lens than the camera tbh. But it's really nice...does everything I need it to
Hi @Hawk Pro Detailing can u help me out with this question. I have a vehicle I did but I noticed the coumpound haze were not coming out with the polish the step that I did is at the bottom 👇 can u read it and tell me what I did wrong. I buff a vehicle similar to yours I did not wet sand it thoe but had similar scratches and swirl makes it didn't had holograms thoe so I use a course coumpound with a 6 inch dual action polisher with a 6 inch compound pad 4 time it took me to take out all the swirl,after that I use a panel wipe that remove coumpound and polish residue, then I polish it with a polish pad to remove compound haze that were created from removing swirl marks so I polish it 2 time to get the gloss and to remove the haze and when I finish I use a panel wipe again to remove the polish residue before I ceramic it but I noticed that it stail have compound haze. Is it because I remove all the polish residue but i had to ceramic it And a next question when finish polishing vehicle do I need to use panel wipe before using sealant and wax or it just for ceramic coating
I never thought in a million years you could sand out scratches and not destroy the paint. Pretty incredible
Thanks John! Appreciate you watching
Just depends on how deep the scratches are I guess
@@richardrussell4065 yea anything below 3000 i wouldnt do on my peraonal car because i cant fix broken clear but at my job i go low as 400 grit i work at mercedes benz and spray those cars and maybachs
I've removed grizzly bear induced scratches before on a truck in Idaho before but that paint was thick.
@@mattsmagicdetailtechDang, was the grizzly in Idaho? Which part, do you remember the area or campground? (I live in Idaho and the wife and I are going out camping soon…)
This is the kind of paint correction I enjoy. Most of my cars are 10 plus years old (My driveway looks like I won the lottery in 2005)
So with all my old junk, this is the kind of stuff I do all the time. Picking up a few hints here and there is always nice.
As far as the sandpaper in a bucket goes... You soak it in hot water for 15 mins or so before hand, it softens the paper so there are no sharp edges when it's wrapped around a sanding block.
Nice.
Unnecessary, spray water on the panel and go to town like Nick did here. Doesn't need to be hot either, from the hose works just as well
I have a 99 Tacoma ex cab. I was looking at videos on buffing out scratches and saw your video. You did a great job. My truck is black and no where near as bad as the one on your video. I now have faith and more confidence that I can make my truck look better. Thanks
I would highly suggest letting a professional take care of it. The difference between a real pro and a normal person is night and day.
Why do you show the before with intense lighting ? and the after with no lighting at all ?, it doesn’t seem like a legit comparison to me
Smoke & Mirrors. Likely hit it with intense lighting and realized it still looked unsightly. You're right - Definitely not a legit comparison.
No bro. You’ve never detailed a black car before then🤦🏽♂️ When they’re scratched the light is being reflected at a million different angles. I actually read your comment before watching - was very disappointed and then realized you just had no idea what you’re talking about. AFTER he was finished, you can see how the black paint was only a reflection/image of exactly what was surrounding it. Meaning the paint no longer had a million little scuffs and scratches. Now, he didn’t show the scratch - and I’d bet that one was too deep to remove. But he did a phenomenal job. But that paint NEEDS to be coated like crazy with ceramic coat or respirated with clear because the remaining clear was taken down many layers and is probably super thin.
@@9595david lol - I've never detailed a Black car? Do your homework before talking outta your ass. I've done plenty and I show my work in direct sunlight.
Yes - this was 100% smoke and mirrors. He Hit it with intense lighting to show the defects, yes, he removed a few of them, then hit it with dim lighting so the defects left behind won't show.
@@GOAT_Shine_Conot sure what you’re smoking dude. A 3k wet sand and then thorough buff and polish isn’t smoke and mirrors🤦🏽♂️ it’s a literal DAY and night difference! He showed the entire job/process but because he used 1 less light you’re hating?💀💀💀
@@9595david never said the process was smoke and mirrors. Learn to read. What is smoke and mirrors is the different lighting that was used to show the before & after. Going from bright lights to dimly lit lights IS smoke and mirrors. It's not an equal compare/contrast.
Yes it looks better. But he's making his work appear better than it actually is by not showing the results in the same lighting as he did the work was started. With paint correction - lighting is everything when it comes to highlighting defects AND showing your results.
That was just amazing how you managed to do that!! A true artist in my opinion. Great video, thanks 🙏
Thank you sir! Artists don't really make money in the world of detailing 🤣 But sometimes I can't help myself lol
It looks good the vehicle I did I had a hard time removing coumpound haze
@@HawkProDetailing Hi @Hawk Pro Detailing can u help me out with this question. I have a vehicle I did but I noticed the coumpound haze were not coming out with the polish the step that I did is at the bottom 👇 can u read it and tell me what I did wrong.
I buff a vehicle similar to yours I did not wet sand it thoe but had similar scratches and swirl makes it didn't had holograms thoe so I use a course coumpound with a 6 inch dual action polisher with a 6 inch compound pad 4 time it took me to take out all the swirl,after that I use a panel wipe that remove coumpound and polish residue, then I polish it with a polish pad to remove compound haze that were created from removing swirl marks so I polish it 2 time to get the gloss and to remove the haze and when I finish I use a panel wipe again to remove the polish residue before I ceramic it but I noticed that it stail have compound haze. Is it because I remove all the polish residue but i had to ceramic it
And a next question when finish polishing vehicle do I need to use panel wipe before using sealant and wax or it just for ceramic coating
So glad you and Yvan connected
The “wild man” finishing technique is definitely odd, but I can’t argue with the results. GREAT save!
LOL! haha I feel like polishing techniques vary and this method doesn't always work but if the paint likes it thank God cause the cutting took forever. I'm gonna call it that from now on...and now it's time for the wild man 🤣
I would have liked to see the same two bright lights you used to show the swirl marks, in a similar position to show the end result as well. That would be an honest comparison, since light is what makes swirls and scratches visible to the eye in the first place.
This. Not showing that makes it seem like it wasn't done well. Forgetting to do an honest before and after isn't a mistake.
@@eriklarson9137😂 Cue the suspenseful conspiracy score
"BUM BUMM BAAAHHHHMM" 😁
@@joshbrookes6439not a conspiracy if it’s true
A hell of an artist! Damn how hot that black looks! Black is the hardest color to maintain 🙌
Thanks! 🤘
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to make this video. I'm just a hobbyist who works on his own cars, but your natural things like "weight of the machine" and other simple tips really helped me understand each level and capability really well.
I appreciate that!
Amazing skill level. I use KochChemie heavy cut compound for serious paint correction as well. It remains slick and has a slow breakdown and low heat action. I prefer Rupes pads for all my higher level detail work.
That is clean good job, I have some hope In my car now , but how much does a job like that run?
Just wondering if you do one panel at a time to finish or do the whole vehicle one step at a time? Thanks
Can't speak for our leading man but in general terms the literature and training guides all recommend panel by panel 👍
That's why I think sometimes for my 17 years old vw properly clean, contamination, clay and heavy cut. Finally after that, let see what exactly I should repair. Otherwise through all swirls can't see a lot. Of course stone chips have to be fix etc. What do you think?
With something that bad I’d always start with 3m trizact 3,000 grit with a interface pad.
Came out amazing!
Thank you!
I've worked on far worse but that is messed up. Great job Nick. PS are you using encapsulation tech for the interior carpets and fabric seats as if so you wouldn't need the anti wicking product. Never have sandpaper in a bucket of water and or water/soap and keep dipping your sandpaper into the bucket then continue sanding, that's a good way to put in marks in the paint. sand with a spray bottle via hand. damp or dry by machine. Micro Mesh, 3M Trizact, Kovax Super Buflex dry aka Eagle abrasives in the USA are my go to sanding materials. Mirka is apparently quite good too. Up to 12,000 grit if you want to go mad. Kovax super buflex black dry discs finish out so shallow it's ridiculous.
Yooooooooooo! Looking like glass now. Job well done.
Thank you sir!!
This video gives me faith that even the worst paint can be corrected, GREAT VIDEO.
Thanks man! 😊
Looks good.
Wonder how much clear is left, though... How much thickness would that paint measure with a paint coating gauge?
Probably close to gone
@@kg_1720 Yeah the safe thing to do is have a body shop re-clear and wetsand the whole car prior to polishing. I have a friend who did this on an older Modena that had been through the wringer, looked absolutely amazing afterwards, but I mean, this is a truck.
Awsome stuff pro, clearly the garage is needed.
Great job man!! I feel like i gotta detail mine every few months. Scratches keep showing up
Thanks my dude! Yes that's the problem with striving for "showroom" ...if you actually drive a vehicle, it will get swirls and scratches. So much crud on the road, so many weather factors we can't control. Even the most diligent detailers inflict some damage on paint with hand washes. Basically you want to touch your paint as little as possible as a rule...but also, don't lose your mind over this because if every little thing upsets you it's easy to go insane 😂 unless it's in a museum a car will get scratches
@@HawkProDetailing ohh i know! Im already at that point. I literally wanna beat the crap out of my car after a wash and swirls are every where. Im at the point that im putting it up for sale.
@@HawkProDetailing bro what u just said made me feel alot better lmaooo
for my car, as a detailer. i understand that, its an infiniti q50, with midnight purple paint so i want to keep it prestine. but lets say i had a more expensive car, something like a bmw or a porsche, id highly recommend PPF (paint protection film), you will never get and swirls and if you do, use a heat gun and itll come right out without even having to touch the car
@Dee Do you bring it to the car wash? Because the bristle brushes they use can put swirl marks on your car. If you arent already then try using a microfiber wash mitt. And wash in straight lines in the direction that the wind would be blowing on your car while driving.
So stunning!!!! Congrats!!!!
Thank you!!
Micro mark makes a cloth sanding set that runs from 1800 to 140000 for scale model work. I just did a pretty jacked up sport track and the soft backing allowed for a very clean hand sanding. Found my new hand sanding process..
Post a link!
What a difference great job bet customers well pleased with end result
Thanks Dave!
That was amazing! Awesome job!!😊
Cheers!
That’s an amazing work
Knitted wool pad is best, to use after wet sanding?
Thanks man, I am going in ... wish me luck.
Always hand sand , take your time and charge the $$$$ great video 👍🏼
I used to cut and buff vehicles that were freshly painted. I used a wool pad
Amazing, but how do you maintain this to keep from looking like trash again ?
Ceremic coating
Did the whole truck turn out like that door? How many hours on the whole truck? Looks GREAT!
Wayyyy too many hour lol. Not recommending this for detailers who need to be turning vehicles faster, but this was what the customer was paying for and he was stoked
is that the normal light you are using??
Hi, I seem to be getting some haze after using Carpro Reflect with finishing foam pad on DA polisher. I did the cutting stage with a Shinemate cutting foam pad (diamond pattern) and 3D One hybrid compound, which removed most of the marring and waterspots, but after doing the finishing step with Reflect, it seem to leave some haze on some areas, especially around the edges of the section I am working on and around the body lines, which I thought was just stubborn residue since it is also very hard to wipe off after IPA spray.
What do recommend me to do? My car is a black metallic Honda (soft paint), I work in a garage but its hot and humid here. May I know what speed setting do you usually use when finishing, and how many passes do you need to do? This is my first go at polishing, could be the technique or it could be the pads. Appreciate the help, Thanks!
Hey I have a question I used 1000 grit sandpaper I still see the marks can I just polish it to get the sand marks out
How much did you charge him for that? Very nice work
I have been following you for a few years, and your interior videos changed how I clean cars, not a detailed, but a mechanic that likes returning customers vehicles better than we get them, so thanks for the help.
Now I am getting into buying a few used cars, and flipping them. Currently working on one that has not had TLC in a long time, and will be trying paint correction.
I have been watching the videos you have put out, and this one dropped at great time, as I wanted to know what’s compounds you were using and found the best in the current market, questioned answered.
However, what Polisher would you recommend, I saw you posted one in this video as a beginner, and the ShineMate was mentioned in the last video, it is still out of stock. I have been looking at all the ones you have used, and wanted your advice.
Thanks for the great videos, and since you ask where everyone is from in some videos, Indiana.
Aww man thanks Joe! What part of Indiana? Man the whole first polisher to buy question is tough...what are your goals with it? Is it for Joe or for the business to be profitable? My first thought is the duetto...just because it is cheaper than the mark ii and is pretty beginner friendly. The way to learn paint correction is just by putting time in, people always recommend a test hood for practice first. But if you don't want rupes there is max shine and griots etc...I haven't tried those yet
@@HawkProDetailing Southern Indiana, just across the river from Louisville, KY.
As for the business, my main business is auto repair, and is an established company, so I get cars all the time that are beyond what a customer wants to put into them. I have flipped a few in the past, using basic chemicals from auto parts stores, and turned out okay.
I have purchased a heated extractor, as I can use that in my main business in case any grease gets onto the carpet when we are doing interior repairs, and your videos of interior have guided me through a best practices to use.
The trick with the hoods is easy as I have a few old cars in my storage lot I can salvage off of to play around with.
I will look at the duetto, I had looked at the max shine, but not sure when it will be back in stock. I did go ahead and order the 5 inch pads and chemicals you recommended here, as they were low stock, so wanted to make sure I had those taken care of.
Thanks so much for the response, and the videos.
The koch system red and purple is great. Max shine is different than shine mate lol. Max shine seems like good bang for the buck. Teick with paint correction is to clean pad often. Flipping cars is good money! If you can at least shine up paint and do a headlight restoration and extract carpets and clean up interior flips are great money with used car market right now
@@HawkProDetailing Thanks never had seen Max Shine, and their site has lots of organizational things, I can use in my home shop and professional one.
I went with the Duetto, as it seems to be a good tool at a decent price, I prefer paying for quality tools, hell I have more Snap-On tools and Mac Tools than I care to admit.
Yeah I do headlight restoration already, and have for the past few years, I screw one up they are a little cheaper than a trip to body shop to get pain fixed, lol. So trying to learn all I can before doing anything to anything but my own vehicles.
Is the pad cleaner from Optimum worth it? Is that more for microfiber and wool pads?
this gives me hope for all the scratches/swirls on my new black car lol. i feel like i scratch it just by looking at it.
Would have been nice for you to show the before and after paint thickness
I didn’t measure it but I should have!
Do you use and recommend the washer mod for the mark 3 15mm?
superb job fella.
Thanks 😊
How much rain or wash it will last ?
The MOMENT you see pigtails, STOP and either clean your sandpaper or replace it. Depending on where you are in progress in a certain section, it actually might be better to clean the paper you have, as that piece has a new grit compared to a fresh
Icee of identical paper. First try wiping it away with the clean cloth you should always have at hand, dry cloth for dry sanding, wet for wet. You’d be surprised how much crap comes off the paper just by wiping it away. But the topic of pigtails. Pigtails come from one thing and one thing only. Bits attached to your sandpaper which are now additional and random grit on your paper. These can be anything, but most often it’s bits of paint which have become dislodged, either from the heat of sanding or having bad adhesion in the first place. On OEM paint this is usually just where contaminants have attached themselves to a bit of OEM paint and the sanding action pulls it all up and out, sometimes leaving a new tiny dimple or hole in the paint. Go back to the days of the Spirograph toy and you’ll see how that spec of basically resin leaves it’s mark in your sanding pattern. Bad stuff, as you now have to sand away the marks which you just made while trying to sand away the marks that were already there, taking away yet more of the PRECIOUS clear or paint base coat. Every single little bit is crucial. Ask me how I know? I always though pigtails we’re just a function of the grit of the paper and the speed at which you moved the machine. It seemed like when I moved the machine faster I got more pigtails. Wrong. It’s just that the other parts of the paper would sand away the pigtails while the pigtail culprit was diminishing or breaking off, and guess what, that was yet again causing more problems. The whole idea is to GET RID of the baddies. I’ve gotten to where I might sand for ten seconds and stop and remove crap from the paper. So be it. That time is a great investment and the returns will be huge, in that you won’t have to spend even more time sanding away the sanding mistakes you actually inflicted upon the surface while trying to fix the surface. As a good doctor says, “do no harm”, that’s virtually impossible when doing any type of touch up or correcting paint, old or new. You are destroying the paint/clear such that the underlying destruction is uniform, then polishing that surface to a nice shine with ever more refined grain until the eye can no longer see the difference between one valley and another. “We will invade that country, level it’s infrastructure, and rebuild it to our own liking!” Turns out our liking isn’t orange peel or anything we don’t perceive as mirror-like, all the while the paint was more protective overall and would retain the most longevity if left alone. Excepting obvious real damage penetrating the primer coat of course. Even then, SOME older OEM primers can absorb water and must be covered with something, preferably a color matching paint to protect the body from rust or corrosion. We destroy to rebuild. This dude did an excellent job. Been there. Not done that so we’ll plenty of times, but my OCD behind looked closer and figured some of this crap out. I’ve even used solvents to get rid of scratches, albeit very, very carefully. How? By reversing the paint process. If the paint got hard after solvents evaporated, then maybe reintroducing solvent to a particular spot would soften the paint enough to reflatteen it. How to do that? Tip of rubber gloved finger. Very, very, very carefully apply a little blending solvent to the tip of your most dexterous finger, with the latex pulled tight, smooth, and clean, and very gently rub(on fresh paint) or firmly (on seasoned paint) to soften and smooth the scratch. Call it chemical non-sanding sanding. It works. Obviously protect the surrounding surfaces to prevent any drips of the solvent or you will have much bigger problems. Ask me how I know. Well……….
Why not making a video? Sounds like you care about the details and that's important
What happened to your PXE 80? How come you didnt use that?
Crazy good outcome.
Thank you sir!
I have another white tundra that want my complete show room look restored, where are you located?
I'm in Heber Utah, how about yourself?
Good work and good presentation.
Thank you Justin 🙏🏾
What year and is it single stage clear give some details
The facial expressions are insane 😂
How do you avoid pig tails? Event with polishing with a DA i still get some pig tails for some reason in the sun…..
eh if it were my truck an enhancement just to bring the gloss back would be enough. Scratches aren't too noticeable when the clear isn't opaque.
Fair enough 🙏🏾
What about between the flex pe14 2 150 rotary vs the rupes rotary which one do you think is better?
flex
@@HawkProDetailingcool you think it's the best rotary out there
This is what my black ram looks like 😁
Was this a single stage paint job Tundra? Or was it cleared? Thanks man! Great job.
Clear coat 😀
Wow! Got a vid of the entire truck finished?
Unfortunately no 🙁 but I did post a pic of the truck once it was coated on our insta
I need this done so bad on my C5Z. So nervous to try it myself though and too cheap to pay someone to do it :P
Perfection like always.
Lol perfection isn't possible and I'm fairly sure the pursuit of perfection isn't profitable 🤣
Is this a permanent solution or is it just a coating and hiring the scratches? I want to do this to my car!
permanent and u can protect the paint by using ppf or ceramic coating or both
Did you ceramic coating on those rock chips?
Yes you can coat over rock chips no problem
After you finish buffing what do use to wipe it off with to keep it from streaking
After compound stage I use a decent microfiber towel, I kinda prefer plush for this but lots of people swear by short nap. If I have compounded for too many sections...( should wipe off after every section, but sometimes it is what it is lol)...so if I've overextended my self and gone to town on the panel...I'll spray it down with a rinseless wash solution for a little lubrication (after some dwell time) and it tends to break down compound if it gets caked on there. I use rupes coarse da and or koch chemie h9 for da and rotary respectively. If you wipe off after your section both are super easy wipe off. Now...after compounding I really love the klin short nap towel (called zero finish, I did a video on it a few months back) I use it fresh out of the bag and it's amazing for polish removal. Thats when not scratching paint us super important. If I can't reduce streaking during a step I'll use a paint prep to get the panel clean but I don't wipe off compound or polish with prep.. I wipe first and if I'm fighting streaks then a paint prep wipe.. we use prep all in the shop.. but the zero finish use 2 of these on a car and they are about 4 bucks a pop.
I'm curious if it's worth just re painting the car at this point. It looks like it would have saved time if you are sanding the car anyways. How long does the shine last for after a expensive detail job like this?
Shine does last for a long time, especially if truck is washed/maintained properly. Way cheaper to do this vs re paint 👍
@@HawkProDetailing how much do you usually charge to do the whole truck??
Nice but how many months did it take to do the whole truck?
Lol fair enough 🤣
Oh wow. A mirror :o great job
Thanks!
I always use 1500 on a da w an interface pad and a light touch first. One pass, DRY, nothing crazy. Then 2000 on a soft block by hand w an atomizer bottle. Meguiars ult comp/ wool, and finish w meguiars ult polish/ black pad. Did it for yrs to cut peel, and blend panels. Had one guy ask my why I painted his entire car on a fender+door blend. Tipped me $500 and brought his wife car a month later😂
Did you get a bigger shop now!! Great bro!! 😎👍🏼
Yessir! Been here since December actually 😊
Did you check before you did wet sanding how much clear coat you had to play with?
Chasing perfecting gets you in trouble most of the times.
It does indeed. My paint gage stopped working a little while back, so I try to really look for texture before I do any kind of correction or sanding. If texture is leveled I put on the brakes
@@HawkProDetailing maverick!! Now the question is did you want perfection or did the customer? How long did it take and how much?
How much would this job cost to be done to a 08 mdx
1300-1800 including ceramic coating
I could never do this I’m no where near patient enough
Can you clean the used pads
Absolutely, but once a sanding disc is done I don’t re use it
Amazing 👏
Thanks 😄
Great job. How much did you charge for that?
About $2,000
Great job sir. The bigger spots, customers need educated on paint and clear coat depth because after such a finish should it be done again and ceramic wears off in a year that it will not be possible. Good to the lowest and leave a bit is best. Speaking from experience and money. Nonetheless, very impressive.
What’s a good price for something like this ?
2,000 for a truck is a great deal if you're going as in depth as i did here
@@HawkProDetailing how many hours did you take?
Hi, do you use DA for dry sanding?
You shouldn't dry sand or use a da if you are working on the paint, it'll ruin it and it'll need to be repainted, unless you're really experienced and know what you're doing
Call of Duty thumbnails,…I can’t escape them.
Looking at having this done by a local shop. What are some average prices to pay for this kind of job?
Where are you located?
@@HawkProDetailing houston texas
You might try ceramic pro Houston and ask for Rob craven. Probably 1500-2000
@@HawkProDetailing ok thanks for the reply! You do amazing work definitely have skill!
Thank you brotha!
hi, if did you use an orbital sander with 2500 gr I'm sure you save a lot of time I remember when I took my certificate detailer technician y to transform one jeep wrangler 2012, I did already sold in Saudi Arabian,
I actually used a dual action polisher with 8mm throw, an interface pad, and meguiars 3000 Grit sanding disc, which I bought from autoality.com
God level
Lol
Man where can I find you ? I need my car done !!
I'm in Utah, you?
more like this please!
That turned out amazing! How much would you charge for that job minus the ceramic coating?
We charged 1500 for this job. It sort of depends on the customer and if closing the job means you throw something in or drop price a bit. I couldn't do this job for less than 1200 unless I absolutely had no food on the table and the heat was about to be shut off lol. And I would like to get 2000 for the job. You just have to make it work for your business
@@HawkProDetailing i see! You did a great job. I can’t believe you got it to look that good
I think sanding is underrated esp 3000 it take the bad off and then cut and polish
Very cool from Australia ;)
HELP PLEASE
So I recently switched from my rotary DeWalt to rupes 15 inch with 6 " pad
Dual polisher
Watched bunch of videos and techniques
Using blue and yellow rupes pad and blue compound and yellow polished.
Took time with one panel .
Washed , claybar , sanded gently with 3000
Did step one and two , slow motion , overlap the whole 9 yards
And it looked absolutely stunning .....BUT
3 days later I saw it on the sun and 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮
Scratches ( spider ) everywhere, color next to the door I didn't do was too dull as if I am looking through the fog ....
I am open to any suggestions and pointers .
Understand it is hard without seeing me working it but I figure I would ask anyway .
Thank you
i have been watched your videos for a while after watching this video the next few days in guna be my 15 year old black clio sport it got ton of swirls and scratches i want it back to that paint poping 💪
Just be careful my brother....if you do what I do in this video it's a lot of risk so please don't do that lol. #DontTryThisAtHome
I’m about to have my raven black Cadillac ATS color corrected/wet sanded. What would be an average ballpark estimate for something like this? Also, if I were to get the ceramic coating as well, what would that run me ? I have a few estimates allready I’ve just never had it done before and want to make sure the price is right.
Maybe 2k…what estimates are you getting?
I wouldn't call having to do whole panels with a mini buffer advanced 😂 looks good tho
Where are you guys located at?
Heber Utah 🤙
Maybe a dumd question and the reason why I ask is because of the way you see these products advertised differently. So can you use a DA Polisher as also a DA Sander?
Also another question I have is regarding the differnt Polishers you use. I see that they say Rotary Polishers. So I assume they are not DA?
Last question. I also have see recently polishers that are notated as Forced Rotation.
So can you help us explain the differences in these polishers and what scenarios would you use them? Also pros and Cons for each one please?
I just Subscribed to your channel and looking forward to more great videos👍😀
Thank you
Is one better than the other?
Nice! Is that a Canon M50 you're filming with on your tripod? I use the 1st-gen M50 for my real-estate photography man. Great camera. I'm still watching the video but wanted to comment or I'd forget.
Cheers! Lol is it bad I don't even know🤣 bought it a few years back. I've spent more money on a wireless mic set up (1200) and lens than the camera tbh. But it's really nice...does everything I need it to
Repaint 1600$ -2500$
Detail 1000-1500$
Or wrap 4000$ what’s the best option ?
That's a cheap re paint I wouldn't use that painter lol
Is ceramic coating necessary?
No but it’s pretty much the best way to protect car paint that exists right now
Hi @Hawk Pro Detailing can u help me out with this question. I have a vehicle I did but I noticed the coumpound haze were not coming out with the polish the step that I did is at the bottom 👇 can u read it and tell me what I did wrong.
I buff a vehicle similar to yours I did not wet sand it thoe but had similar scratches and swirl makes it didn't had holograms thoe so I use a course coumpound with a 6 inch dual action polisher with a 6 inch compound pad 4 time it took me to take out all the swirl,after that I use a panel wipe that remove coumpound and polish residue, then I polish it with a polish pad to remove compound haze that were created from removing swirl marks so I polish it 2 time to get the gloss and to remove the haze and when I finish I use a panel wipe again to remove the polish residue before I ceramic it but I noticed that it stail have compound haze. Is it because I remove all the polish residue but i had to ceramic it
And a next question when finish polishing vehicle do I need to use panel wipe before using sealant and wax or it just for ceramic coating
What pad and polish?
@@HawkProDetailing a minimum polishing pad
@@HawkProDetailing did u read the bottom message
@@HawkProDetailing sorry I was on my other account
@@HawkProDetailing a medium polishing pad and meguiar's ultimate polish
How much does that cost tho?
I think we charged $2,000 for the full truck and ceramic coating
Respect!
Thank you 🙌🏼
How many 3000 grit pads did you go through on this giant
Lol it was a giant. I use about a disc a panel. I wish sandpaper wasn't so expensive...
Yeah I’m just gonna try running through my local car wash on the cheapest wash option once a day until it’s resolved
Easy job especially on a Toyota. But the thing I didn’t see you is measuring the paint before and after. There is no clearcoat
I hear you sir, thank you for watching and those statements are all valid points
Where are you located????
Heber city utah