This is by far the best video i came accross replacing Timing chain on Mini. Thank you for taking time and share this valuable video. if you could share info about the parts supplier, the kit number, crank locking tool, cam locking tools i appriciate that
@@WondwosenDemere I can look more in depth for the tools but it’s pretty much a generic Amazon mini specific timing tool kit The chain and kit was bought from Detroit Tuned. I’ll look for the kit number/PN shortly
So some kits come with new cam gears both intake and exhaust. Just to be clear u would install new bolts for cam gears and what about replacing cam gears as well. Thanks again. Ed
I really like this video, it is very different from most of the dry info presented in the same dry way in most other how to's. (The shot @12:00 alone is the best part actually). And I don't even own a Mini Cooper. Anyway if i were doing this job, I'd find a real gasket for the oil pan be it cork, neoprene, whatever, because "gasket in a tube" has always been found less than ideal. Naturally automakers all use the tube gaskets as it is a dream come true for them, no gasket to buy for $1 each, just a penny or two for some good old silicone sealer, answering the only question they had when they made it, "will it make it out of warranty? OK, Good enough!" With a true gasket and permatex brown it's hard to go wrong for the next 100,000 compared to tube gasket, always rather hit-or-miss as the miles go by!
Thanks for showing a non turbo, hard to find repair videos for the non turbo. Any reason you did not use the cam locks instead of the adjustable wrench? Are you afraid the cam locks may break when removing the sprocket bolts?
Excellent video very easy to understand and so informative, end of this coming summer in the uk i am planning on pulling the subframes and renovating bushes paint etc, while the front is off clutch and timing chain will be done at the same time!!!!. so glad i found you Zevi you have a new sunscriber here from the uk!!!!!!!!. x😄
Thank you for the video it was very helpful in changing my timing chain. Question where can purchase a crankcase breather hose? Mine is cracked and the internet is not showing the correct hose.
Very helpful N16 video, Zevi. I was hoping you would show how you relieved tension on the accessory belt and that it didn't involve a special tool. If you remove the right headlight and raise the engine with the jack under the oil pan, can you access the 30mm tensioner bolt with a 30mm socket?
Yes, but now on n16 and n18 cars I use a 30mm crows foot, I can remove tension from belt without lifting the car or removing any parts. I'll have a video on it soon
@@zevisgarage Another quick question: Rather than using a socket & breaker bar to remove the crankshaft hub bolt, what are your thoughts on instead using high torque impact wrench (e.g., Milwaukee 2767) after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?
@@rj7008 definitely possible, it’s very high torque so you definitely need one of the big boy impacts to do it. I don’t have any strong enough ones to get it off
@@zevisgarage Thanks again, Zevi. My Milwaukee 2767 is powerful and removed my Honda crank bolt in about 2 seconds. Maybe I'll give it a try on the Mini N16 crank bolt in late summer.
@@zevisgarage Sorry for so many questions, Zevi. When you 180-degree torqued the crankshaft bolt, did you use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar and what was the length of the breaker bar and extender pipe? Finally, can I safely assume that most videos don't show the entire procedure for torquing the Mini Cooper crankshaft bolt because it's like wrestling a bear. :)
Hey zevi. Great video on the mini time chain replacement. I’m going to attempt it. Just wondering if you recommend new bolts for intake and exhaust cam gears at top of engine. I know you used a brand new cam, crank pulley bolt. Ty. Ed
Great vid Zev ! Have a QUESTION for you. Did everything in order and all but when came time to unscrew the crank bolt to release the chain, the whole thing turned, bolt and crank. Realized that the lockpin was not all the way in. Tried to put the pin in by turning the crank again and level the pistons, but it just wont go in. There does not seem to be any angle on the crank that the pin will fit. Tried to sand the pin down like some recommend, still wont go in. Have any idea what's wrong ?
When you say you had to 180 it, did you turn the cams individually? My flywheel locks with the cams 180 out. I cant get it to lock in the correct position, and the internet tells me the flywheel only has 1 hole for the locking pin. Car ran decent, is it possible its timing was so far off?
@zevisgarage I've turned the engine over so many times trying to get the pin in when the cams have writing up and flat tops and sides. I'm just missing the hole?
I just gave the engine 15 or 20 more turns. The flywheel pin 100% only goes in when the cams are 180 out. It went in several times very easily, but only in that cam position. All 4 cylinders are in line. If I lock the flywheel and cams in this position, and replace the chain, it should still be timed correctly since the crank and cams are not moving?
@zevisgarage yes. Just like you had them in the video when you took the chain off. As you were putting the cam lock in place you mentioned needing to "180" it because you had the writing facing down. My writing faces down, top of cam lock is rounded. If I orient the cams correctly, the flywheel pin does not go in.
Hello need help please I do have a fault code P111b just recently change map sensor, 02 sensor done smoke test leak test its all good. No rough idle and no misfire
Thanks for the video. I'm about to purchase a 2013 N16 Cooper with only 20,000 Mileage on it (it has been sitting in the garage lots of times), so do you think the timing chain should be okay on it?
Personally I’d probably replace it just because. I’m very extra like that. But in theory it should be okay. I’d recommend looking at the guides to see color and judge health
I need to do this for my car but i dont have the tools. so i have to take it to a shop. they want 2800 for the job. it only has 40k miles. the check engine light gave a code saying the guides need to be replaced. but not the chain. but i figure if the guides gotta go then the chain does too...
@@zevisgarage you are right. There isn't a code. The check engine light is on. First it was the solenoids, then the O2 sensor. I changed them. Then I changed the gasket cover. I took it to AutoZone and it says the guides need to be changed. The same codes came back. For the O2 sensor and the solenoid. I have a cheap code reader. Autel brand that I got from Amazon.
It says 287D engine dme motor electronics. Dme vanos inlet: actuator movement. Status: not present. 2845 dme vanos exhaust actuator movement. Status not present I figured those codes are clear. But why are they there. Then it says 2A8B dme oxygen sensor before catalytic converter calibration line present. Idk what that one is. But maybe that's next to replace. AutoZone says replace the guides
What city are you located in? Would you be interested in doing it? The dealership wanted like 6k that's nuts! I guess for vanos? Makes no sense!! My car is so cute it would make a good model for you!
If anything I would love to get your opinion on what to do with it! Should I fix it? Sell it? I just don't know what to do! I'm in love with the color and it's so clean but is it worth it to fix it with 145k miles? It seems to drive nice, everything seems to work! It's a shame that Mini dealership quoted so high to repair!
This helped with my n12. My chain had 160k original miles and the guides were destroyed. Car runs great now 👍.
This is by far the best video i came accross replacing Timing chain on Mini. Thank you for taking time and share this valuable video. if you could share info about the parts supplier, the kit number, crank locking tool, cam locking tools i appriciate that
@@WondwosenDemere I can look more in depth for the tools but it’s pretty much a generic Amazon mini specific timing tool kit
The chain and kit was bought from Detroit Tuned. I’ll look for the kit number/PN shortly
Thank you, Zevi! This video is immaculate with high resolution. I extracted much useful information from that.
Thank you! Hope it helps with your endeavors!
So some kits come with new cam gears both intake and exhaust. Just to be clear u would install new bolts for cam gears and what about replacing cam gears as well. Thanks again. Ed
@@Braj651 it’s a must. They are stretch bolts
I really like this video, it is very different from most of the dry info presented in the same dry way in most other how to's. (The shot @12:00 alone is the best part actually). And I don't even own a Mini Cooper.
Anyway if i were doing this job, I'd find a real gasket for the oil pan be it cork, neoprene, whatever, because "gasket in a tube" has always been found less than ideal. Naturally automakers all use the tube gaskets as it is a dream come true for them, no gasket to buy for $1 each, just a penny or two for some good old silicone sealer, answering the only question they had when they made it, "will it make it out of warranty? OK, Good enough!"
With a true gasket and permatex brown it's hard to go wrong for the next 100,000 compared to tube gasket, always rather hit-or-miss as the miles go by!
gracias , voy a intentarlo en un mini cooper del 2007 con 200.000 km , motor n12 b16 , thank you brother from spain
Thanks for showing a non turbo, hard to find repair videos for the non turbo. Any reason you did not use the cam locks instead of the adjustable wrench? Are you afraid the cam locks may break when removing the sprocket bolts?
It’s a habit I have from when I do most rebuilds and valve stem seals from where the cams usually need to come out anyways
Excellent video very easy to understand and so informative, end of this coming summer in the uk i am planning on pulling the subframes and renovating bushes paint etc, while the front is off clutch and timing chain will be done at the same time!!!!. so glad i found you Zevi you have a new sunscriber here from the uk!!!!!!!!. x😄
Cheers! Glad to be able to help! I gotta do bushings on 2 of my other Mini’s next
thanks so much for this video. you make it look so easy and explained it very well.
Thank you! That’s my goal, it can be tedious for first timers but it’s not bad when laid out clearly
Hi. What is your phone number or address please?
Excellent video. Much appreciated!
Thanks my friend. Very nice video..
Thank you for the video it was very helpful in changing my timing chain. Question where can purchase a crankcase breather hose? Mine is cracked and the internet is not showing the correct hose.
Here’s the part number
11157612996
Thank you@@zevisgarage
I reset my vanos adaptations on my r55 after a head job and new timing and it will crank fire up and die immediately now. Any thoughts?
Very helpful N16 video, Zevi. I was hoping you would show how you relieved tension on the accessory belt and that it didn't involve a special tool. If you remove the right headlight and raise the engine with the jack under the oil pan, can you access the 30mm tensioner bolt with a 30mm socket?
Yes, but now on n16 and n18 cars I use a 30mm crows foot, I can remove tension from belt without lifting the car or removing any parts. I'll have a video on it soon
@@zevisgarage Another quick question: Rather than using a socket & breaker bar to remove the crankshaft hub bolt, what are your thoughts on instead using high torque impact wrench (e.g., Milwaukee 2767) after locking the crankshaft and camshafts with the camshaft alignment timing tool?
@@rj7008 definitely possible, it’s very high torque so you definitely need one of the big boy impacts to do it. I don’t have any strong enough ones to get it off
@@zevisgarage Thanks again, Zevi. My Milwaukee 2767 is powerful and removed my Honda crank bolt in about 2 seconds. Maybe I'll give it a try on the Mini N16 crank bolt in late summer.
@@zevisgarage Sorry for so many questions, Zevi. When you 180-degree torqued the crankshaft bolt, did you use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar and what was the length of the breaker bar and extender pipe? Finally, can I safely assume that most videos don't show the entire procedure for torquing the Mini Cooper crankshaft bolt because it's like wrestling a bear. :)
What's the little chain behind the main one? Oil pump or something? Mine is super slack. Is that normal?
Oil pump chain. Completely normal for it to have a bunch of slack
Hey zevi. Great video on the mini time chain replacement. I’m going to attempt it. Just wondering if you recommend new bolts for intake and exhaust cam gears at top of engine. I know you used a brand new cam, crank pulley bolt. Ty. Ed
Yes always new for cams, and crank
Great vid Zev ! Have a QUESTION for you. Did everything in order and all but when came time to unscrew the crank bolt to release the chain, the whole thing turned, bolt and crank. Realized that the lockpin was not all the way in. Tried to put the pin in by turning the crank again and level the pistons, but it just wont go in. There does not seem to be any angle on the crank that the pin will fit. Tried to sand the pin down like some recommend, still wont go in. Have any idea what's wrong ?
Try using the other pin if your timing chain kit came with it. Is your car manual transmission or automatic?
How do you reset Vanos Adaptations? Great video by the way.
I use my scan tool foxwell NT510 elite to reset adaptations
When you say you had to 180 it, did you turn the cams individually? My flywheel locks with the cams 180 out. I cant get it to lock in the correct position, and the internet tells me the flywheel only has 1 hole for the locking pin. Car ran decent, is it possible its timing was so far off?
Keep spinning it, it will line up
@zevisgarage I've turned the engine over so many times trying to get the pin in when the cams have writing up and flat tops and sides. I'm just missing the hole?
I just gave the engine 15 or 20 more turns. The flywheel pin 100% only goes in when the cams are 180 out. It went in several times very easily, but only in that cam position. All 4 cylinders are in line.
If I lock the flywheel and cams in this position, and replace the chain, it should still be timed correctly since the crank and cams are not moving?
@@PilotInProgress90 180° out as in text facing down and round side of cam lock spot is up?
@zevisgarage yes. Just like you had them in the video when you took the chain off. As you were putting the cam lock in place you mentioned needing to "180" it because you had the writing facing down. My writing faces down, top of cam lock is rounded. If I orient the cams correctly, the flywheel pin does not go in.
Hello need help please I do have a fault code P111b just recently change map sensor, 02 sensor done smoke test leak test its all good. No rough idle and no misfire
Thanks for the video. I'm about to purchase a 2013 N16 Cooper with only 20,000 Mileage on it (it has been sitting in the garage lots of times), so do you think the timing chain should be okay on it?
Personally I’d probably replace it just because. I’m very extra like that. But in theory it should be okay. I’d recommend looking at the guides to see color and judge health
What is a good brand or what cam lock set do you use?
OEMtools
Schwaben also makes a Kit, I have several kits
So cam locks weren’t needed ?
Not for disassembly but to time the engine again yes they were needed
I need to do this for my car but i dont have the tools. so i have to take it to a shop. they want 2800 for the job. it only has 40k miles. the check engine light gave a code saying the guides need to be replaced. but not the chain. but i figure if the guides gotta go then the chain does too...
What code? There isn’t a code that will say guides need to be replaced
@@zevisgarage you are right. There isn't a code. The check engine light is on. First it was the solenoids, then the O2 sensor. I changed them. Then I changed the gasket cover.
I took it to AutoZone and it says the guides need to be changed. The same codes came back. For the O2 sensor and the solenoid.
I have a cheap code reader. Autel brand that I got from Amazon.
It says 287D engine dme motor electronics. Dme vanos inlet: actuator movement. Status: not present.
2845 dme vanos exhaust actuator movement. Status not present
I figured those codes are clear.
But why are they there.
Then it says 2A8B dme oxygen sensor before catalytic converter calibration line present. Idk what that one is. But maybe that's next to replace. AutoZone says replace the guides
and recommendations of a shop that can do this for me in Los Angeles?
I do them sometimes, but if not probably Mini world or such can do it
What city are you located in? Would you be interested in doing it? The dealership wanted like 6k that's nuts! I guess for vanos? Makes no sense!! My car is so cute it would make a good model for you!
@@LisabethMiller what year is yours? I’m in Los Angeles
2017 🥰
If anything I would love to get your opinion on what to do with it! Should I fix it? Sell it? I just don't know what to do! I'm in love with the color and it's so clean but is it worth it to fix it with 145k miles? It seems to drive nice, everything seems to work! It's a shame that Mini dealership quoted so high to repair!