**Correction** At 29:06 in the video we inadvertently put in the wrong torque spec for the 8mm bolts on the upper timing chain guide. The torque spec should be *8 Nm* NOT 30 Nm. We apologize for the confusion. Buy the kit used in this video at fcpeuro.com - www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini-n14-timing-chain-kit-11318618317kt?
Probably should edit that out and re upload a new one. I know this one has a ton of views but imagine if someone watches this and doesn’t look at the comments. Lots o strippy
For anyone doing this based off this video just two critical things 1. if there's a gap between the timing tools and the crank shaft is locked in the correct position(more on this in point 2 ) don't force or use the bolts to walk them closed as he called it. it really means the timing is off. and you run the risk of straining the timing tool out of proper alignment. use a 27mm open ended wrench to hold the cam shaft in place and loosen the cam gears accordingly. 2. As I found out the crank shaft can be locked in a number of positions not being the correct timed position and this my friends has happened to a number of persons hence setting the wrong timing on refitting so DTC codes codes and more codes. So along with having the writing on the cams turned upwards also make sure that all 4 pistons are in mid travel equal position respective to each other. you can do this by removing the spark plugs and stick equal length pencils or something similar in the holes to rest on top of the pistons and observe as you rotate the engine. you only need to use cylinders 1&2 as when they are equal all the others are also equal.
@@fcpeuro my respect only to help. I know many people find working on them intimidating but I find them to be fairly easy once you know what you are doing and have the required tools
Hi Nick, I need to do this also. Please tell me, how did it go? Did this video cover everything? I sure hope so, can't afford another $2,000 to $6,000 repair bill.
First video I've seen not just clicking their fingers, and having the cam lock in place. You showed what it's really like. Respect! Chain guide kit too! Every other video I've seen has prepared it earlier.
Its not for the feint of heart, but really if you take your time and follow these steps it really is doable. Once you do this on your MINI it empowers you to take on many more jobs!
It’s actually one of the easiest timing chain jobs to do. Lol. Once you get experience im doing an N12 right now. It’s crazy how simple it is. Compare to a GL320 Diesel! Or Audi S4 B6
This is a fantastic DIY guide - Cory has a very comforting voice - lol. I have to say I wonder where I sit on the "novice" scale. I've done a lot of suspension stuff, axles, brakes, etc - what I call "nuts and bolts" jobs. I do have all the proper torque wrenches and tools, but stuff "inside the motor" is intimidating. I do wish the video had documented the point where the motor is in time more specifically as well as the bit with the borescope - obviously an important piece to get right - but overall extremely well-done and much appreciated!!
What a magnificent video!the camera work is world class. The instructions are some of the clearest and meaningful as could ever be hoped for. While I'm no where near beginner amateur wrencher I've never touched a Mini. This video makes me feel this could be doable m.. Maybe lol Thank you for a professional quality video!!
Thankyou for putting this guide on RUclips! I’m looking to get a mini soon and want to build to doing this myself. Will definitely help me in the months to come!
I did the procedure the way is indicated here and the vanos came off both the camshaft, I am not sure what I did wrong but they immediately came right off. I opened up the valve cover to see the timing chain riding between both the sprockets, as soon as I saw that I felt a grim feeling I knew the engine was ruined. I decided to give it a chance cus why not? I was already there, and put it back together. I went under and put the crank shaft in time, took the vanos out, camshaft in time and put the gears back in, I tightened them wrench tight, they're not torqued, they're not over tight but they're definitely tight now, put the head back together and crossed my fighters, car started right up but it sounds like an effing diesel now, engine is definitely going to do one last ride if any, hopefully the new timing chain gives it another year but I wouldn't ride with this car through the desert if you know what I mean. I re usted the old bolts tho and I know now by procedure you're supposed to put new bolts, first time doing this engine and i got to say it's definitely a fun engine to work on, it seems daunting here but once you're hands on doing it, it doesn't feel as bad as other cars I have worked on as a mater of fact is easier to time than most American cars and even if it looks claustrophobic and super tight there is enough room to work on most everything that needs service like the pumps belts and what not, you just got to ride the engine up and down wit the jack but there is plenty of room to work on the wheel weel. Another point I have to say it's the crank bolt, it definitely can't go 50nm and then a 180⁰ turn; again reusing the bolts, I was fighting with it with my foot and once I got to around 100 and some degrees I decided to just stop If you're reusing the bolts adjust accordingly, but honestly I would pony up the money for a kit that is worth a 🤬 that has new stretch bolts, gaskets and vanos, if you're there might as well and I would do, oil pump, water pump and timing chain depending of age. Just food for thought 😎 don't buy cheap crap from eBay, my engine is definitely going to isht the bed at some point
Thanks for this video. Well done! i was able to start and complete this job on a N18 (seized chain tensioner, broke the top guide). The kit had everything i needed and and had fun doing this job. THANK YOU!!
I own a 2013 Mini Cooper Coupe...the longer I own this car, which I bought used, initially for my wife when they recalled her Hyundai Optima, & then let my stepdaughter drive it for about a year, until after Hyundai had replaced (at no charge, under the recall) my wife's Optima engine...both my wife & my stepdaughter really beat the poor Mini Cooper, until my stepdaughter eventually cracked the number 2 piston...I had a machine shop fix the piston, & then I took over full use of the Mini Cooper from then on...I have a 2006 SAAB 9-3 Turbo as my daily driver, so initially I just left the Mini Cooper in the garage, & I had it professionally detailed by a mobile detailer...I had just a couple of minor repairs needed, so I took it to the shop...their policy is the first perform a complete bumper-to-bumper inspection of any automobile they are going to work on...they ended up quoting me $4.5 K for all parts & labor to fix everything, & anything either already in immediate need of repair, or perhaps would need to be fixed within the next 6 months to a year...I agreed to let them do everything, & it cost me $4,500.00...they did an excellent job, & they had everything done in less than a week...they're not even a Mini Cooper shop...they work all types of cars...anyway, now I'm turning my Mini Cooper into my daily driver, & I really enjoy it! There's no way I would ever attempt changing the timing belt on my Mini Cooper>>you make it look far too easy 😂
Got the death rattle on my grand daughters car , not looking forward to the job , the video has given me more confidence , so thanks for that . Had it been a B,M,C mini of the 1960;s I knew those inside out , ah well . pete trimble
God forbid no wonder people talk about how stupid it is to own these cars! This guy is amazing just to know how to do all this! All of this just for a timing chain? I own one but after watching this it makes want to give it away!
Real good video !!! , I just bought a really nice 2007 mini no rust and pretty clean for real cheap price. The only thing I got to do, replace the engine cause bearing is bad in piston number 1.... so a video like this is a must.... the only engine I swapped was in my suzuki sidekick 1994, far différent !!! Furthermore, all tools needed are described, simply amazing.... So thanks for the video, very appreciated....
My experience with the frozen outside headlight bolts: spin the bolt until the captured nut heats up and melts through it's plastic insert. You will see it start smoking, then you can pull it out with some pliers, you will have to replace the captured nut insert. I'm going to jbweld the nut back into the insert I think that will work, we'll see. Second headlight was even better. I just spun it until it started to smoke a bit. Let it cool down. Then it just unscrewed. It basically 'recaptured' the nut in molten plastic. I hit both nuts with some penetrant the night before. The heat that melts the insert may also help the penetrant. I ran across this on the internet, and was amazed at how well it worked. Drilling the bolt or cutting with Dremel...have fun with that. Been in service mode for a week, alternator out, chain guides look good, but chain measured 73mm so ordered parts and starting timing chain today....
@@andrewhorak3443 The one I jb welded didn't hold. It is holding the headlight in, but if you turn the screw, the captured nut will spin. It's a lifetime part now unless the light has to come out again...
Bro! You are the best! Gave me confidence in doing one of this 🤣 I am ordering the tool kit so I can start recommending them. Thank you for the very detailed video. You got yourself a new subscriber
I owned a 2007 in around 2012, 2013 which had the death rattle. Paid $3k for that. I replaced it with a new 2015 shortly after that. In about 2018 I received a letter telling me I could get my money back for it, I just had to have all the maintenance records, proof of oil changes, proof of payment for the chain job. So remember, when you have maintenance done on your car, hang on to it for a decade just in case.
How did you get your money back? We bought a 2007 in 2021 and it developed the death rattle last month. Mini said that it's 20,000 miles over the warranty. It's a recall so...how is the mileage a thing? We are paying $1700 for the chain replacement. Now the AC won't work because of a sensor. $250 more...
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 Since I didn't have all the records, I didn't even submit. The dealership will have the records, if you have service done there, but the car was already gone for 3 years by the time I got the notice. I may not have been a "recall" but a "service bulletin" which means they'll fix it if A.. B.. C.. etc. In a recall, they fix it at their expense because it's usually a safety issue. I think that's why they set the mileage limits. Just went through it again on my 2012 Outback. Only 105,000 miles and I had to put in a new $9000 transmission. They had extended the "warranty" to 100,000 because they had so many failures. I called Subaru's Customer line and they ended up covering $6000 of the cost. Still, I ended up just shy of $4k out of pocket for a car that was relatively low on miles. Basically, if it fails within the parameters set by the bulletin, they will cover it. If not, then you got "one of the good ones" so any failure after that is on you--That's just my understanding of a service bulletin vs a recall. If it was an actual recall, NHTSA or NTSB should have info on it (I forget which agency handles that). Even if you're outside the service window, I'd call MINI and see if they're willing to help out at all. Worth a call.
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 the Gen 2 2007-2010 were involved with the 30 mil class action lawsuits over the timing chain flaw. Mini agreed to pay for repairs or reimburse those owners with problems. The deal expired in summer of 2016. Any issues after that, you are out of luck. I just got a 2010 with 78k miles on it, bought As Is. The timing chain went after just 800 miles. My parts are ordered and I'm doing this myself this month. Parts and tools were about $600.
Did you miss a step at 21:56 Remove the crank pulley hub, It magically came out before pulling the chain up? Also thanks for posting this is very helpful!! I havent seen anyone else tightening those bolts with both torque and degrees good to know!
Have to say I appreciate the hard work you guys do. You saved me $1900 and like $4k if I went to Mini. Sorry I didn't buy your parts though. They were not as cheap as others/ didn't have in stock. Ill keep you guys in my prayers! I owe you
I’m having a issue getting the timing right? Can you explain the correct timing position again for a dummy like me ? You said words up and the flats straight up?
Sure seems like a lot of people incorrectly install PTFE seals, as demonstrated in this video. They should not be "greased up" and should be installed completely dry, as per car manufacturer and seal manufacturers instructions. Some aftermarket timing belt kits and cam/crank seals even have a note in the box to remind you.
29:40 @fcpeuro references service manual. I have been looking years for a Mini Cooper Service Manual. Where can I find a Mini Cooper Service Manual please🙏🙏
Really appreciate the video and all the support from FCP! I do wonder what vehicle you worked on. I am doing a 2009 JCW Clubman and you have so much more room. The gap between the friction pulley bolts and the frame rail on car is so small. In the video, you use a 3/8 drive ratchet and 10mm socket. That is absolutely not possible on my car.,
The guy who helped me didn't tighten the crank pulley e10 bolts fully. Pulley came loose then bolts sheered off. Now i have to remove the bottom chain sprocket to try to drill them out. I tried welding to them but couldn't get enough heat to the ends of the bolts.
Crank Holder tool: I'm being extra cautious, spent the extra bucks on the crank holder tool Finally arrived and I"m excited to finally do the work...WTF? How is this thing supposed to even go on? If I drop it down from the top like you did, 1: It doesn't line up with the holes, 2: It's not flush, the top of the block sticks out to far, and 3: What is it supposed to catch on? Or are they assuming you are going to hold the end of it? Awesome Video! Gonna keep searching, but I can't find anywhere that clearly shows how that tool is used, seems to obvious....
Got it. Was making to many assumptions and not thinking. removed flywheel and cam locks. Rotated crank so I could get the tool bolted on with handle pointing at about 4 o'clock. breaker bar on crank bolt at about 5 o'clock. Siting in front of car, push tool, pull breaker, loosened right up. Liberal amounts of penetrant several days ago definitely helped. Took a lot less torque to remove than when I first tried a few days ago before I had the tool, and just had the flywheel locked.
Hey. First off thanks for the video. I'm putting in the chain tensioner and have a concern. I'm using a mechanical Torque wrench and keeping it at .2-.4nm Torque, nut I'm very worried may have damaged the chain(over stretched it). I've been turning a d turning the bolt that extrudes from the body of the tensioner. It has about 3/4-1 inch of threads still exposed that I could tighten down but feel I'm going to far already. My Torque wrench IS set to .2-.4nm (or atleast under 1nm). My question is, can I just install the real tensioner rather than this placement one and continue with the procedure?
Came here because I purchased an 09 with low compression in cyl 3 after a timing chain job. Is there a tutorial to set the correct timing for this n14? I haven't removed the head yet because I can find a proper timing guide for this car
I’m missing the point of the L shaped support tool - the engine on a hydraulic jack with a wood block so to move the engine up and down? I get it is attached to the tensioner pulley location but where does the other arm of the L tool get connected?
I noticed when you lock in the cams the left hand side doesn't sit all the way down on the bracket. Does that mean that it's out of time and slightly or is that normal with that locking tool? I'm wondering because that's exactly what mine is doing. I was about to close it up put the valve cover back on but really not sure about the cam. On other videos I seen them have to turn the vanos so the bracket sits tight and flat. But they do appear to be on a different model than we are. Any input would help thank you.
I have 2011 clubman 3door turbo 1600 I bought a timing chain kit. The top guard in the head that comes with it rubs agains the top of the chain between the 2 sprockets ex and intake. I put washers under feet of bracket. it clears now.. That says the chain is too thick or guard too low? . next issue is the dip stick is hitting something on the way in about 1/2 way.. Next to the timing chain. ??
By the time you’re finished replacing the timing chain, It’s probably about the same amount of work to shoehorn an LS into the engine bay as it is to reassemble everything.
Hey, currently doing the chain on my mini. I’m having issues getting the top guide pin in. It doesn’t line up with the chain guide fully, and I don’t think the little pin in the end is going all the way in. Any ideas?
It’s the wrong guide, they’re almost identical but the hole on the new one is guaranteed to be slightly lower and offset. They look identical and are entirely aside from the hole for the top guide pin
I just got a 2010 r56 w/ 78k miles. 3 weeks later, broken down and timing chain. Ordering my kit and the tools and will be trying this myself. Wish us both luck!
@monstermonium1693 went awesome. Until 3 months later and the clutch went. Then the AC compressor went. Then the thermostat housing leaked. Straight money pit. But I still absolutely love the car.
@30:47 The graphic says 20Nm +180* (incorrect) for the crank bolt. The presenter says 50Nm+180 (the correct spec). Might be a good idea to correct in the future. Also on disassembly you skip over removing the crank hub. It skips from removing the bolt to removing the chain. Not complaining, I love your videos. But might be helpful for hte next person.
Hi thinking about buying. A 2007 mini cooper S with 110k miles automatic transmission. Are mini coopers night mares to own ? I hear they have radiator problems, oil leaks, water pump issues, brake issues too . What shoul I look for when I go see it and what are the questions I should ask the owner ? The car looks really clean but I still need to go see it
Have you ever had a repeat Timing Chain slip even after installing NEW Mini Cooper S bolts at crank and cams using TTY correct procedures and vacuum pump is new? (Exhaust valve bent of course). What am I missing?
Can anyone help me with this? Changing my timing chain on 2014 n18. In process of putting it back together. I torqued the crankbolt with the pin in to proper specs. I did this without the cams in. I put the cams in next and put the locking tool on the cams. Going to torque the tensioner and then the cam gears next. Is this an acceptable order or should i have torqued the crankbolt WITH the cams in and locked at the same time? I didnt see a problem with the order i did it in but all the videos show the crank bolt with cams in.
Vanos Adaptation? Why aren't more people talking about this? My 2012 N16B16A (non turbo) motor needed Vanos Adaptation after replacing timing chain (actual complete motor rebuild with new pistons). I have P00BD MAF sensor errors, so I learned about Vanos Adaptation using Foxwell NT510 Elite meter. I used the Foxwell (Autell (?) can do it too) and found it has a little more torque and power across the full rpm range. No erratic idle (used to be a few sconds) on cold startup, so it drives better but still have P00BD error, and now an additional P05CC 'Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Performance Bank 1'. So I know it's something else in camshaft system. I read that if you do any timing chain replacements or work to do the Vanos Adaptation. Why is it not coming up more? It sure helped me for more power, smoothness, and now may point more to an actual problem in Vanos system. Head was sent to shop ($500), so maybe it's a cam sensor or Vanos Solenoid (although I swapped them a long time ago, no difference). I was getting 42.5 mpg, I may be getting less now it has more power, but I love driving it with slightly more power.
clean the cam sensors, they get metal filings on them screwing things up. Drive it around a bit and clean again as it likely will pick up additional metal filings in the oil.
@@imzjustplayin I'll try that again but when I swapped the intake and exhaust sensors I wiped them clean. Don't remember any metal. Didn't make any difference. It comes and goes now days. I always have at least one pending P00BD. If I get three three check engine light comes on. I feel it at 2500-3000 rpm. It feels like a misfire but I've confirmed it's the shirt term fuel trim shutting off ever so briefly. I think the computer shuts it off. Not sure why.
@@KirkReed there should be a very tiny groove in the middle of the sensor which may have some metal shavings in it. due to the magnet, it won't be too easy to remove all the tiny little metal fragments. I used a metal pick to dig out some of the metal fragments that collected in that groove.
Man, the parts are cheap but the labor in getting to the most important part of the engine is an intense struggle. How many hours were spent in all of this?
Hey thanks for posting this video for the Mini enthusiast. Just a question. What advice can you give if the chain actually breaks and put the timing out of place. Thank you!
Should the timing adaption variable camshaft timing control reset automatically after completing the timing chain replacement. My Mini mini cooper R56 2007 N12 non turbo is fine on start up for approx 30 sec and then starts to adjust to a point where there is ticking noise so I stop the engine running. My very basic OBD2 reader shows the P0014 and P0115 codes again. I took all the covers off again and checked the timing (looks aligned on top dead centre). Checked and cleaned the vanos solenoids, they are working fine. Do I need to delete the setting using a more advanced OBD diagnostic tool?
I completed this project over the last few weeks. Car was broken down 100 miles away at dads. I also replaced the water pump, installed a K&N cold air intake and a new intercooler, new plugs. New oil and coolant. Fired up on 1st start and ran well on a 3 mile test ride. The next morning, wouldn't crank or start. Rushed a diagnostic tool and got 3 codes. Please help! A0B4, A0C1 and A0C2. What do these mean?
Means you bought a mini-Cooper which are junk. I bought a 2003S and took a $900 dollar loss just to get rid of these money pits. BMW should of never made such a piece of shit. Best bet Sir is to dump it before you go insane trying to keep these things running. Sorry but I’m going thru the same shit with mine. Sold it today and took a $900 dollar loss. Never again will I ever get within 500 miles of these cars. Now I feel better😢
The A0B4, A0C1, and A0C2 codes on a Mini Cooper R56 are related to the engine's variable valve timing (VVT) system. Specifically, these codes indicate issues with the VANOS (Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung in German, which means Variable Camshaft Timing in English) system, which is responsible for adjusting the timing of the engine's intake and exhaust valves. Here's a brief overview of what each code means: A0B4: This code indicates that there is a problem with the VANOS system's intake camshaft. This could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, or a problem with the camshaft position sensor. A0C1: This code indicates that there is a problem with the VANOS system's exhaust camshaft. Similar to the A0B4 code, this could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, or a problem with the camshaft position sensor. A0C2: This code indicates that there is an issue with the VANOS system's adaptation limit. This could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, a problem with the camshaft position sensor, or a malfunctioning VANOS actuator.
@matthewault355 after about 3 weeks, the car finally turned over and the codes were cleared. Never had any issues until the clutch went at the end of summer. Dropped the subframe and replaced it for a 3rd of the dealer cost. I've learned alot about Mini over the last year.
**Correction** At 29:06 in the video we inadvertently put in the wrong torque spec for the 8mm bolts on the upper timing chain guide. The torque spec should be *8 Nm* NOT 30 Nm. We apologize for the confusion.
Buy the kit used in this video at fcpeuro.com - www.fcpeuro.com/products/mini-n14-timing-chain-kit-11318618317kt?
also you said 50nm on the crankshaft and the video shows 20nm
Yeah it's meant to be 50nm
Probably should edit that out and re upload a new one. I know this one has a ton of views but imagine if someone watches this and doesn’t look at the comments. Lots o strippy
@FCP Euro what grease are you putting on the crank seal? 25:44
I followed the 30nm and snapped the bolts like a dummy, i didn’t even question why these 8mm bolts would be torqued that high lol
For anyone doing this based off this video just two critical things 1. if there's a gap between the timing tools and the crank shaft is locked in the correct position(more on this in point 2 ) don't force or use the bolts to walk them closed as he called it. it really means the timing is off. and you run the risk of straining the timing tool out of proper alignment. use a 27mm open ended wrench to hold the cam shaft in place and loosen the cam gears accordingly. 2. As I found out the crank shaft can be locked in a number of positions not being the correct timed position and this my friends has happened to a number of persons hence setting the wrong timing on refitting so DTC codes codes and more codes. So along with having the writing on the cams turned upwards also make sure that all 4 pistons are in mid travel equal position respective to each other. you can do this by removing the spark plugs and stick equal length pencils or something similar in the holes to rest on top of the pistons and observe as you rotate the engine. you only need to use cylinders 1&2 as when they are equal all the others are also equal.
Great notes, thank you for dropping this in.
@@fcpeuro my respect only to help. I know many people find working on them intimidating but I find them to be fairly easy once you know what you are doing and have the required tools
@@fcpeuro maybe pin the message
Been in the business almost 60 years. You did a great job and will be recommending your company’s services whenever necessary.
Priceless video guide shared with MINI enthusiasts. Sincerely appreciate your efforts in releasing such a professional DIY, guys. Great job!
This is the BEST video for replacement of the R56 Timing Chain and Head Gasket. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Thank you for making this content free! Helpful to so many
Hey Taylor, happy to provide it, thank YOU for watching!
I'm going to do this tomorrow in my driveway watching you in one hand on My phone and wrenching with the other hand.
Let us know how it goes, good luck Nick!
Hi Nick, I need to do this also. Please tell me, how did it go? Did this video cover everything? I sure hope so, can't afford another $2,000 to $6,000 repair bill.
Hope as a novice person your video will help me do a timing chain correctly as my 1st ever timing chain replacement thank you 😊
Did you get it done right…just checking?!?!
@@Jonnyboy2.0 I take it him not coming back to complain about failing terribly means that he did haha
This is quite honestly one of the easiest timing chain Replacement jobs Especially if you have the right tools It's practically impossible to mess up.
First video I've seen not just clicking their fingers, and having the cam lock in place.
You showed what it's really like. Respect!
Chain guide kit too! Every other video I've seen has prepared it earlier.
Wow, this seems like a pretty brutal job.
Its not for the feint of heart, but really if you take your time and follow these steps it really is doable. Once you do this on your MINI it empowers you to take on many more jobs!
It is gives me diareah
It’s actually one of the easiest timing chain jobs to do. Lol. Once you get experience im doing an N12 right now. It’s crazy how simple it is.
Compare to a GL320 Diesel! Or Audi S4 B6
Yeah try doing it on a car where the chain is on the gearbox side 😂
This is a fantastic DIY guide - Cory has a very comforting voice - lol. I have to say I wonder where I sit on the "novice" scale. I've done a lot of suspension stuff, axles, brakes, etc - what I call "nuts and bolts" jobs. I do have all the proper torque wrenches and tools, but stuff "inside the motor" is intimidating. I do wish the video had documented the point where the motor is in time more specifically as well as the bit with the borescope - obviously an important piece to get right - but overall extremely well-done and much appreciated!!
What a magnificent video!the camera work is world class.
The instructions are some of the clearest and meaningful as could ever be hoped for.
While I'm no where near beginner amateur wrencher I've never touched a Mini.
This video makes me feel this could be doable m.. Maybe lol
Thank you for a professional quality video!!
Thankyou for putting this guide on RUclips! I’m looking to get a mini soon and want to build to doing this myself. Will definitely help me in the months to come!
Props to the guy that had to time code this whole video.
Luckily he's a MINI guy 🙂
Excellent tutorial, really helpful throwing up the torque settings!
I did the procedure the way is indicated here and the vanos came off both the camshaft, I am not sure what I did wrong but they immediately came right off.
I opened up the valve cover to see the timing chain riding between both the sprockets, as soon as I saw that I felt a grim feeling I knew the engine was ruined.
I decided to give it a chance cus why not? I was already there, and put it back together.
I went under and put the crank shaft in time, took the vanos out, camshaft in time and put the gears back in, I tightened them wrench tight, they're not torqued, they're not over tight but they're definitely tight now, put the head back together and crossed my fighters, car started right up but it sounds like an effing diesel now, engine is definitely going to do one last ride if any, hopefully the new timing chain gives it another year but I wouldn't ride with this car through the desert if you know what I mean.
I re usted the old bolts tho and I know now by procedure you're supposed to put new bolts, first time doing this engine and i got to say it's definitely a fun engine to work on, it seems daunting here but once you're hands on doing it, it doesn't feel as bad as other cars I have worked on as a mater of fact is easier to time than most American cars and even if it looks claustrophobic and super tight there is enough room to work on most everything that needs service like the pumps belts and what not, you just got to ride the engine up and down wit the jack but there is plenty of room to work on the wheel weel.
Another point I have to say it's the crank bolt, it definitely can't go 50nm and then a 180⁰ turn; again reusing the bolts, I was fighting with it with my foot and once I got to around 100 and some degrees I decided to just stop
If you're reusing the bolts adjust accordingly, but honestly I would pony up the money for a kit that is worth a 🤬 that has new stretch bolts, gaskets and vanos, if you're there might as well and I would do, oil pump, water pump and timing chain depending of age.
Just food for thought 😎 don't buy cheap crap from eBay, my engine is definitely going to isht the bed at some point
The best explanatory video in all youtube…..
Thanks for this video. Well done! i was able to start and complete this job on a N18 (seized chain tensioner, broke the top guide). The kit had everything i needed and and had fun doing this job. THANK YOU!!
Love to hear that Lushan! Motor On and enjoy your MINI!
Good job of narrating and visual of the work being performed
Really impressive video. Now I know why people say I have to hope the timing chain doesn’t go on my 2007 Cooper S.
isnt the 2007 one supercharged ?
i dont think it has the same problems like the n14 engine
@@Birnenapfelmuss 07 is turbo
I own a 2013 Mini Cooper Coupe...the longer I own this car, which I bought used, initially for my wife when they recalled her Hyundai Optima, & then let my stepdaughter drive it for about a year, until after Hyundai had replaced (at no charge, under the recall) my wife's Optima engine...both my wife & my stepdaughter really beat the poor Mini Cooper, until my stepdaughter eventually cracked the number 2 piston...I had a machine shop fix the piston, & then I took over full use of the Mini Cooper from then on...I have a 2006 SAAB 9-3 Turbo as my daily driver, so initially I just left the Mini Cooper in the garage, & I had it professionally detailed by a mobile detailer...I had just a couple of minor repairs needed, so I took it to the shop...their policy is the first perform a complete bumper-to-bumper inspection of any automobile they are going to work on...they ended up quoting me $4.5 K for all parts & labor to fix everything, & anything either already in immediate need of repair, or perhaps would need to be fixed within the next 6 months to a year...I agreed to let them do everything, & it cost me $4,500.00...they did an excellent job, & they had everything done in less than a week...they're not even a Mini Cooper shop...they work all types of cars...anyway, now I'm turning my Mini Cooper into my daily driver, & I really enjoy it! There's no way I would ever attempt changing the timing belt on my Mini Cooper>>you make it look far too easy 😂
The engine block holding tool that you put on at 20:40. Is this a necessary step?
Got the death rattle on my grand daughters car , not looking forward to the job , the video has given me more confidence , so thanks for that . Had it been a B,M,C mini of the 1960;s I knew those inside out , ah well . pete trimble
God forbid no wonder people talk about how stupid it is to own these cars! This guy is amazing just to know how to do all this! All of this just for a timing chain? I own one but after watching this it makes want to give it away!
Real good video !!! , I just bought a really nice 2007 mini no rust and pretty clean for real cheap price. The only thing I got to do, replace the engine cause bearing is bad in piston number 1.... so a video like this is a must.... the only engine I swapped was in my suzuki sidekick 1994, far différent !!!
Furthermore, all tools needed are described, simply amazing....
So thanks for the video, very appreciated....
My experience with the frozen outside headlight bolts: spin the bolt until the captured nut heats up and melts through it's plastic insert. You will see it start smoking, then you can pull it out with some pliers, you will have to replace the captured nut insert. I'm going to jbweld the nut back into the insert I think that will work, we'll see. Second headlight was even better. I just spun it until it started to smoke a bit. Let it cool down. Then it just unscrewed. It basically 'recaptured' the nut in molten plastic. I hit both nuts with some penetrant the night before. The heat that melts the insert may also help the penetrant. I ran across this on the internet, and was amazed at how well it worked. Drilling the bolt or cutting with Dremel...have fun with that. Been in service mode for a week, alternator out, chain guides look good, but chain measured 73mm so ordered parts and starting timing chain today....
I did the same thing, never bothered to try and fix that mounting point, 3 out of 4 bolts holds it fine been like that since 2016
@@andrewhorak3443 The one I jb welded didn't hold. It is holding the headlight in, but if you turn the screw, the captured nut will spin. It's a lifetime part now unless the light has to come out again...
Bro! You are the best! Gave me confidence in doing one of this 🤣 I am ordering the tool kit so I can start recommending them. Thank you for the very detailed video. You got yourself a new subscriber
I owned a 2007 in around 2012, 2013 which had the death rattle. Paid $3k for that. I replaced it with a new 2015 shortly after that. In about 2018 I received a letter telling me I could get my money back for it, I just had to have all the maintenance records, proof of oil changes, proof of payment for the chain job. So remember, when you have maintenance done on your car, hang on to it for a decade just in case.
How did you get your money back? We bought a 2007 in 2021 and it developed the death rattle last month. Mini said that it's 20,000 miles over the warranty. It's a recall so...how is the mileage a thing? We are paying $1700 for the chain replacement. Now the AC won't work because of a sensor. $250 more...
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 Since I didn't have all the records, I didn't even submit. The dealership will have the records, if you have service done there, but the car was already gone for 3 years by the time I got the notice. I may not have been a "recall" but a "service bulletin" which means they'll fix it if A.. B.. C.. etc. In a recall, they fix it at their expense because it's usually a safety issue. I think that's why they set the mileage limits. Just went through it again on my 2012 Outback. Only 105,000 miles and I had to put in a new $9000 transmission. They had extended the "warranty" to 100,000 because they had so many failures. I called Subaru's Customer line and they ended up covering $6000 of the cost. Still, I ended up just shy of $4k out of pocket for a car that was relatively low on miles. Basically, if it fails within the parameters set by the bulletin, they will cover it. If not, then you got "one of the good ones" so any failure after that is on you--That's just my understanding of a service bulletin vs a recall. If it was an actual recall, NHTSA or NTSB should have info on it (I forget which agency handles that). Even if you're outside the service window, I'd call MINI and see if they're willing to help out at all. Worth a call.
@@angelaoleary-wyatt512 the Gen 2 2007-2010 were involved with the 30 mil class action lawsuits over the timing chain flaw. Mini agreed to pay for repairs or reimburse those owners with problems. The deal expired in summer of 2016. Any issues after that, you are out of luck. I just got a 2010 with 78k miles on it, bought As Is. The timing chain went after just 800 miles. My parts are ordered and I'm doing this myself this month. Parts and tools were about $600.
You make it look easy and that is only possible when some one is very good in what he's doing 👍
Thank you!
clean and smooth execution. i luv the car repair shop. its so clean to. awesome
I love the way you are doing the work,in fact it’s all about the right tools ⚒️,tanx for sharing
Excellent video. Followed and had no problems at all. Love seeing the Snap On!
When it comes to specialty tools like timing tools and crank holding tool, you guys should offer those as rentals
Did you miss a step at 21:56 Remove the crank pulley hub, It magically came out before pulling the chain up? Also thanks for posting this is very helpful!! I havent seen anyone else tightening those bolts with both torque and degrees good to know!
Have to say I appreciate the hard work you guys do. You saved me $1900 and like $4k if I went to Mini. Sorry I didn't buy your parts though. They were not as cheap as others/ didn't have in stock. Ill keep you guys in my prayers! I owe you
I’m having a issue getting the timing right? Can you explain the correct timing position again for a dummy like me ? You said words up and the flats straight up?
Sure seems like a lot of people incorrectly install PTFE seals, as demonstrated in this video. They should not be "greased up" and should be installed completely dry, as per car manufacturer and seal manufacturers instructions. Some aftermarket timing belt kits and cam/crank seals even have a note in the box to remind you.
glad you are here, I just done the PTFE/front crank seal dry by other videos and see this one need grease?
No grease
TENÍA QUE PONERLE LA CADENA DE LA BOMBA DE ACEITE ,POR ESO ES MAYOR MENTE ES QUE SUENA ,YO AL MIO LE PUSE LAS DOS CADENA Y QUEDO DE SHOW.
really appreciate for this clip.i just done timing chain after watch your clip. thank you so much
Fantastic!
We need an MQB timing chain video, and a cylinder head cover reseal DIY PLEASE!
I think we can make that happen
29:40 @fcpeuro references service manual. I have been looking years for a Mini Cooper Service Manual. Where can I find a Mini Cooper Service Manual please🙏🙏
Thank you so much for making this video. You did a fantastic job!! It helped me a ton.
Thanks for the video is big helpful
Glad it helped!
Really appreciate the video and all the support from FCP! I do wonder what vehicle you worked on. I am doing a 2009 JCW Clubman and you have so much more room. The gap between the friction pulley bolts and the frame rail on car is so small. In the video, you use a 3/8 drive ratchet and 10mm socket. That is absolutely not possible on my car.,
The guy who helped me didn't tighten the crank pulley e10 bolts fully. Pulley came loose then bolts sheered off. Now i have to remove the bottom chain sprocket to try to drill them out. I tried welding to them but couldn't get enough heat to the ends of the bolts.
What is the recommended service interval to replace the timing chains in n these cars?
Great help when I did mine on my JCW
Awesome video!!! Can a rough idle and random misfire across all cylinders be chain related?
Yes because compressions is now off on all cylinders and timing is off
Crank Holder tool: I'm being extra cautious, spent the extra bucks on the crank holder tool Finally arrived and I"m excited to finally do the work...WTF? How is this thing supposed to even go on? If I drop it down from the top like you did, 1: It doesn't line up with the holes, 2: It's not flush, the top of the block sticks out to far, and 3: What is it supposed to catch on? Or are they assuming you are going to hold the end of it? Awesome Video! Gonna keep searching, but I can't find anywhere that clearly shows how that tool is used, seems to obvious....
Got it. Was making to many assumptions and not thinking. removed flywheel and cam locks. Rotated crank so I could get the tool bolted on with handle pointing at about 4 o'clock. breaker bar on crank bolt at about 5 o'clock. Siting in front of car, push tool, pull breaker, loosened right up. Liberal amounts of penetrant several days ago definitely helped. Took a lot less torque to remove than when I first tried a few days ago before I had the tool, and just had the flywheel locked.
Most complete video I've found on how this is done, would all procedures and torque specs be the same for the N18 engine?
Hey. First off thanks for the video. I'm putting in the chain tensioner and have a concern. I'm using a mechanical Torque wrench and keeping it at .2-.4nm Torque, nut I'm very worried may have damaged the chain(over stretched it). I've been turning a d turning the bolt that extrudes from the body of the tensioner. It has about 3/4-1 inch of threads still exposed that I could tighten down but feel I'm going to far already. My Torque wrench IS set to .2-.4nm (or atleast under 1nm). My question is, can I just install the real tensioner rather than this placement one and continue with the procedure?
As has been said, this is awesome!
Came here because I purchased an 09 with low compression in cyl 3 after a timing chain job. Is there a tutorial to set the correct timing for this n14? I haven't removed the head yet because I can find a proper timing guide for this car
Exelent video I have a question you have any shop in Florida very professional job
Wow thanks for such a great video on this significant maintenance job. Good on ya
Our pleasure Ron, these MINI's need some love!
I’m missing the point of the L shaped support tool - the engine on a hydraulic jack with a wood block so to move the engine up and down? I get it is attached to the tensioner pulley location but where does the other arm of the L tool get connected?
outstanding pro work thanks for detail process. Thanks for sharing
I noticed when you lock in the cams the left hand side doesn't sit all the way down on the bracket. Does that mean that it's out of time and slightly or is that normal with that locking tool? I'm wondering because that's exactly what mine is doing. I was about to close it up put the valve cover back on but really not sure about the cam. On other videos I seen them have to turn the vanos so the bracket sits tight and flat. But they do appear to be on a different model than we are. Any input would help thank you.
I have 2011 clubman 3door turbo 1600 I bought a timing chain kit. The top guard in the head that comes with it rubs agains the top of the chain between the 2 sprockets ex and intake. I put washers under feet of bracket. it clears now.. That says the chain is too thick or guard too low? . next issue is the dip stick is hitting something on the way in about 1/2 way.. Next to the timing chain. ??
One of this days, you gonna to disarm the entire car to change one spark plug. Every day new cars are more complicate to working on it
By the time you’re finished replacing the timing chain, It’s probably about the same amount of work to shoehorn an LS into the engine bay as it is to reassemble everything.
I was thinking a 392 in there myself. Lol
Thats right punjab
What to do if both marks aren't up and timing is off. How do you adjust the cams?
3:04 what is that connector??
Great video! Thank you for posting, super helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your help
Happy we could be of help!
Another great video! Would this be similar for the N18? Also are there plans for more Gen2 Mini videos?
Hey, currently doing the chain on my mini. I’m having issues getting the top guide pin in. It doesn’t line up with the chain guide fully, and I don’t think the little pin in the end is going all the way in. Any ideas?
I'm having the same issue did you ever figure it out?
It’s the wrong guide, they’re almost identical but the hole on the new one is guaranteed to be slightly lower and offset. They look identical and are entirely aside from the hole for the top guide pin
This is a brilliant video, I've just ordered a timing chain kit and will definitely be coming back to this for reference.
You can do it!!
I just got a 2010 r56 w/ 78k miles. 3 weeks later, broken down and timing chain. Ordering my kit and the tools and will be trying this myself. Wish us both luck!
@@Hitmanzero47how did it go?
@monstermonium1693 went awesome. Until 3 months later and the clutch went. Then the AC compressor went. Then the thermostat housing leaked. Straight money pit. But I still absolutely love the car.
good video. What about ADAPTATION DELETE RELEARN?
@30:47 The graphic says 20Nm +180* (incorrect) for the crank bolt. The presenter says 50Nm+180 (the correct spec). Might be a good idea to correct in the future. Also on disassembly you skip over removing the crank hub. It skips from removing the bolt to removing the chain. Not complaining, I love your videos. But might be helpful for hte next person.
Masterclass !
For freeee ;-)
Hi thinking about buying. A 2007 mini cooper S with 110k miles automatic transmission. Are mini coopers night mares to own ? I hear they have radiator problems, oil leaks, water pump issues, brake issues too . What shoul I look for when I go see it and what are the questions I should ask the owner ? The car looks really clean but I still need to go see it
Question is the chain is the same for the none turbo??? Block seem the same since you had remove a lot o this motor
Awesome instructions everything very good to see and understand 👍
Appreciate that, Nik!
Thanks for the video, what was the mileage on this car?
Have you ever had a repeat Timing Chain slip even after installing NEW Mini Cooper S bolts at crank and cams using TTY correct procedures and vacuum pump is new? (Exhaust valve bent of course).
What am I missing?
How can the rattle be caused by the chain hitting the engine when the chain is completely encased in the plastic carrier?
Can anyone help me with this? Changing my timing chain on 2014 n18. In process of putting it back together. I torqued the crankbolt with the pin in to proper specs. I did this without the cams in. I put the cams in next and put the locking tool on the cams. Going to torque the tensioner and then the cam gears next. Is this an acceptable order or should i have torqued the crankbolt WITH the cams in and locked at the same time? I didnt see a problem with the order i did it in but all the videos show the crank bolt with cams in.
Where did you put the block of wood and floor jack on bottom of motor? On oil pan???
A nice long piece of wood will safely distribute the weight under the oil pan to avoid any damage to the pan.
Vanos Adaptation? Why aren't more people talking about this? My 2012 N16B16A (non turbo) motor needed Vanos Adaptation after replacing timing chain (actual complete motor rebuild with new pistons). I have P00BD MAF sensor errors, so I learned about Vanos Adaptation using Foxwell NT510 Elite meter. I used the Foxwell (Autell (?) can do it too) and found it has a little more torque and power across the full rpm range. No erratic idle (used to be a few sconds) on cold startup, so it drives better but still have P00BD error, and now an additional P05CC 'Cold Start "A" Camshaft Position Timing Performance Bank 1'. So I know it's something else in camshaft system. I read that if you do any timing chain replacements or work to do the Vanos Adaptation. Why is it not coming up more? It sure helped me for more power, smoothness, and now may point more to an actual problem in Vanos system. Head was sent to shop ($500), so maybe it's a cam sensor or Vanos Solenoid (although I swapped them a long time ago, no difference). I was getting 42.5 mpg, I may be getting less now it has more power, but I love driving it with slightly more power.
clean the cam sensors, they get metal filings on them screwing things up. Drive it around a bit and clean again as it likely will pick up additional metal filings in the oil.
@@imzjustplayin I'll try that again but when I swapped the intake and exhaust sensors I wiped them clean. Don't remember any metal. Didn't make any difference. It comes and goes now days. I always have at least one pending P00BD. If I get three three check engine light comes on. I feel it at 2500-3000 rpm. It feels like a misfire but I've confirmed it's the shirt term fuel trim shutting off ever so briefly. I think the computer shuts it off. Not sure why.
@@KirkReed there should be a very tiny groove in the middle of the sensor which may have some metal shavings in it. due to the magnet, it won't be too easy to remove all the tiny little metal fragments. I used a metal pick to dig out some of the metal fragments that collected in that groove.
Man, the parts are cheap but the labor in getting to the most important part of the engine is an intense struggle. How many hours were spent in all of this?
What's the little chain behind the main one? Oil pump or something? Mine is super slack. Is that normal?
What if the crank gear doesn't tighten together with crank bolt
thank you!! helped out a lot
Is this a similar process for the 2011 Cooper S? I believe in 2011 they went to the N18 correct?
Hey thanks for posting this video for the Mini enthusiast. Just a question. What advice can you give if the chain actually breaks and put the timing out of place. Thank you!
Thanks for the video.
Should the timing adaption variable camshaft timing control reset automatically after completing the timing chain replacement. My Mini mini cooper R56 2007 N12 non turbo is fine on start up for approx 30 sec and then starts to adjust to a point where there is ticking noise so I stop the engine running. My very basic OBD2 reader shows the P0014 and P0115 codes again. I took all the covers off again and checked the timing (looks aligned on top dead centre). Checked and cleaned the vanos solenoids, they are working fine. Do I need to delete the setting using a more advanced OBD diagnostic tool?
You guys have any video on f60 diy on front control arm bushing? Would love to see one! Enjoyed every video so far
Looks like a fun job. Anyone know what the flat rate is for this job?
186,000 dollars.
Parts extra.
@@fatclimber6567 wow! so is that 18.6 hours at $10,000.00 per hour? or 186 hrs, x $1000?
Excellent video, love to know where you get those gloves from, I'd have went through at least 20 pairs doing that job.
Hey nice job how much does that job cost and how do I find a mechanic that doesn’t like you
Would it be easier to pull the engine?
I seen a 2009 Mini Cooper S for $1500 that needed a new timing chain. Thanks. I won’t be buying that 😆
thats why I'm here too
If the timing guides broke and it skipped time then it needs a new engine, not a new belt.
29:09 he says they’re 8mm bolts and they get torqued to 8 Nm, but the graphic on the screen at the same time says 30 Nm. Which is correct?
8Nm is the correct spec , the one Cory mentions. A graphics/editing error on our! Thanks for catching that Gino20202 sorry for any confusion!
Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure!
if it is not in time, how would you reposition the cams?
I completed this project over the last few weeks. Car was broken down 100 miles away at dads. I also replaced the water pump, installed a K&N cold air intake and a new intercooler, new plugs. New oil and coolant. Fired up on 1st start and ran well on a 3 mile test ride. The next morning, wouldn't crank or start. Rushed a diagnostic tool and got 3 codes. Please help! A0B4, A0C1 and A0C2. What do these mean?
Means you bought a mini-Cooper which are junk. I bought a 2003S and took a $900 dollar loss just to get rid of these money pits. BMW should of never made such a piece of shit. Best bet Sir is to dump it before you go insane trying to keep these things running. Sorry but I’m going thru the same shit with mine. Sold it today and took a $900 dollar loss. Never again will I ever get within 500 miles of these cars. Now I feel better😢
The A0B4, A0C1, and A0C2 codes on a Mini Cooper R56 are related to the engine's variable valve timing (VVT) system. Specifically, these codes indicate issues with the VANOS (Variable Nockenwellen Steuerung in German, which means Variable Camshaft Timing in English) system, which is responsible for adjusting the timing of the engine's intake and exhaust valves.
Here's a brief overview of what each code means:
A0B4: This code indicates that there is a problem with the VANOS system's intake camshaft. This could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, or a problem with the camshaft position sensor.
A0C1: This code indicates that there is a problem with the VANOS system's exhaust camshaft. Similar to the A0B4 code, this could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, or a problem with the camshaft position sensor.
A0C2: This code indicates that there is an issue with the VANOS system's adaptation limit. This could be caused by a faulty solenoid, a broken or stretched timing chain, a problem with the camshaft position sensor, or a malfunctioning VANOS actuator.
@matthewault355 after about 3 weeks, the car finally turned over and the codes were cleared. Never had any issues until the clutch went at the end of summer. Dropped the subframe and replaced it for a 3rd of the dealer cost. I've learned alot about Mini over the last year.
does anyone know of a video that covers the N18 engine timing chain?
Will this same process work for a 2013 mini Cooper s r56?