bmw has the same e-brake on the rear, everyone I've talked to said you have to take the motor off and turn it with a torx bit so I never tried the retractor on it, turns out you just have to switch manufactures
Great Video, I have done many brake pad and rotor change in Honda Civic and CRV 2000-2017 model, was looking for 2019 and above model as i was confused with electronic switch part , now not any more
Thank you for posting this video. Do you recommend using OEM rotors and brakes? If not what specific brakes did you use? Did you notice and shaking when applying the brakes after a few uses? Where do you get the brake piston rewind tool? Thank you for your help!
What brakes you use are really up to you and your budget. I typically do not use OEM rotors/pads but choose a high quality aftermarket manufacturer. The tool part number is at the beginning of the video and came from Autozone. Thanks for watching!
Thank You! I have a 2017 RLX with 50k and about to perform my first brake job on this car and the rear electronic brake was of concern to me. Anything else you think I should know about doing it? Appreciate it.
FYI, for my '16 RLX, I had to remove the EPB motor(T-27 bit, 2 screws) and turn the piston screw (T-47 bit) clockwise until it bottoms. Then use C-clamp or tool to collapse the piston so caliper can be reinstalled. The caliper mount bolts are 13 mm or T-47 bit. I started the engine, slowly pumped brakes until firm pedal then apply EPB(you'll hear a whirr about 5-10 secs) and then done. Hope this helps the RLX guys & gals out there.
I’ve seen it done that way in another MDX video, which is unnecessary when you have to just rotate the piston as shown here. I’d imagine the RDX is the same way and likely isn’t necessary there either if you have the correct tools.
Awesome Video, Thanks for Posting! Quick question….Title says rear but it’s looks like you do this front breaks? I’m guessing it’s identical? Is there a big difference? Thanks again!
No these are the rear brakes. They’re definitely not identical to the front but the overall process would be similar, though there is no parking brake and hardware will possibly differ in size and torque specifications.
What was the process for checking the Electronic brake after you finished? Meaning did you pump the brakes first to get the pistons where they needed to be then engage the electronic brake or did you just engage the electronic brake and let it make the piston adjustment? Thank you for your help?
It’s an OEMTools 24693. As for the rubber boot, sometimes that happens and you just need to be careful not to tear it. You might be able to lubricate it with something but be sure it’s safe to use on brake/rubber seals.
I noticed on the new brake pads the squealer is on the outside vs. the inside (the side with the piston). Shouldnt the brake wear indicator/squealer go on the inside?
@@rontan8954 it won't make any noise day to day but generally the pad that is touching the piston wears down quicker so you want that pad on the inner side.
It would still squeal once it contacts the rotor. The general idea behind putting them on the inside is that people tend to think the pad on the piston side wears faster. I’ve never observed this to be true and feel the position of the squealer is a preferential thing. Personally, I think if you solely rely on this device to tell you that your brakes need replaced, you should rethink how you maintain your vehicle. You should inspect your brakes periodically to check wear, not rely on a noise making device with questionable reliability.
Some videos show people removing the electric parking brake motor and retracting the internal drive - manually or with a 12 volt jumper. You just retracted the piston, leaving the motor in place. That doesn't damage the motor's internal drive an any way , does it, when you retract the piston? Your approach is more straight forward.
Honestly, I think those doing those videos weren’t aware that some calipers require the piston to be rotated to insert it back into the caliper, regardless of whether or not there is an electric parking brake. I had no issues after doing it as shown here, the parking brake worked perfectly immediately after I put everything back together and tested it. Thanks for watching.
@@stuffyoucando2 After watching a number of videos. I now realize that the screw drive on the electric motor sets the piston position relative to the wear of the brake pads. When turning the piston back, it is setting the motor's screw drive positioner back to accommodate the new brake pads original dimensions. The piston bore is smooth - thus your approach is completely correct. I just don't have the 3 pronged device that fits into the piston's grooves. Most retraction devices have 2 or 4 prongs; even the Harbor Freight kit doesn't have the right part for Acura. Thanks for your video - it helped me understand the dynamics of this system.
That’s correct, and it seems that to have a 3 point contact for rotating the piston is unusual, most I’ve had in the past have been two and you could get away with using a pair of needle nose pliers, but not in this case. I’m sure you can remove the parking brake motor as shown in other videos if you don’t have or aren’t able to get the tool. I got mine off the shelf at Autozone.
The process will be similar except the piston should be able to be compressed rather than screwed back in. I do plan to do a video on front brakes, just not in the very near future. Thanks for watching!
Also, I list jackstands on the required tools (if desired). It’s really up to what you’re comfortable with. Knowing that for a job like this I’m not going under the vehicle I did not use them myself for this job.
This is the best video on how to replace rear brake pads/rotors on 2016-2020 MDX. Very clear steps and the list of tools. Thank you!
Thanks!
I am fortunate to have both my 2019 Acura MDX and found this video for her well. Thanks!
bmw has the same e-brake on the rear, everyone I've talked to said you have to take the motor off and turn it with a torx bit so I never tried the retractor on it, turns out you just have to switch manufactures
The rear brakes don't have the 2 pins which separate the brake pads from the rotors like the front brakes have?
Nope, what you see is the hardware that's used for the rears.
Great Video, I have done many brake pad and rotor change in Honda Civic and CRV 2000-2017 model, was looking for 2019 and above model as i was confused with electronic switch part , now not any more
2016 MDX has old drum/shoe emergency brake set up, so just changing pads is easier, no piston retractor tool needed.
You are correct, no electric parking brake until 2017. Thanks!
@@stuffyoucando2 ironically the same set up I have on my 67 vette
Thank you for posting this video. Do you recommend using OEM rotors and brakes? If not what specific brakes did you use? Did you notice and shaking when applying the brakes after a few uses? Where do you get the brake piston rewind tool? Thank you for your help!
What brakes you use are really up to you and your budget. I typically do not use OEM rotors/pads but choose a high quality aftermarket manufacturer. The tool part number is at the beginning of the video and came from Autozone. Thanks for watching!
This works on RLX also. I used bungee cords to hold caliper out of the way.
Thank You! I have a 2017 RLX with 50k and about to perform my first brake job on this car and the rear electronic brake was of concern to me. Anything else you think I should know about doing it? Appreciate it.
That’s because the RLX and MDX share the same rear rads and shims.
FYI, for my '16 RLX, I had to remove the EPB motor(T-27 bit, 2 screws) and turn the piston screw (T-47 bit) clockwise until it bottoms. Then use C-clamp or tool to collapse the piston so caliper can be reinstalled. The caliper mount bolts are 13 mm or T-47 bit. I started the engine, slowly pumped brakes until firm pedal then apply EPB(you'll hear a whirr about 5-10 secs) and then done. Hope this helps the RLX guys & gals out there.
I’ve seen it done that way in another MDX video, which is unnecessary when you have to just rotate the piston as shown here. I’d imagine the RDX is the same way and likely isn’t necessary there either if you have the correct tools.
Thanks. Question. Did you have to put your MDX into service mode to compress the calliper piston? Or did you take the actuator off the calliper.
Neither.
Thank you sir. Perfect explanation.
Is this process the same for 2017 RDX?
Can you provide brand of brake caliber grease you use or recommend? Thanks great video!
Thanks! Over the years I’ve exclusively used Permatex Ultra, but was out of it for this video and used Sta-Lube instead and it seemed fine as well.
Awesome Video, Thanks for Posting!
Quick question….Title says rear but it’s looks like you do this front breaks? I’m guessing it’s identical? Is there a big difference? Thanks again!
No these are the rear brakes. They’re definitely not identical to the front but the overall process would be similar, though there is no parking brake and hardware will possibly differ in size and torque specifications.
What was the process for checking the Electronic brake after you finished? Meaning did you pump the brakes first to get the pistons where they needed to be then engage the electronic brake or did you just engage the electronic brake and let it make the piston adjustment? Thank you for your help?
I actuated the parking brake and it adjusted properly and everything worked fine after that.
@@stuffyoucando2 thank you so much sir.
What calliper tool did you use? My one is shit. Every time it would turn the piston, the rubber boot would twist as well. Any suggestions?
It’s an OEMTools 24693. As for the rubber boot, sometimes that happens and you just need to be careful not to tear it. You might be able to lubricate it with something but be sure it’s safe to use on brake/rubber seals.
I noticed on the new brake pads the squealer is on the outside vs. the inside (the side with the piston). Shouldnt the brake wear indicator/squealer go on the inside?
Good observation...It should be on the inside. Not sure if it's going to make any noise or anything.
@@rontan8954 it won't make any noise day to day but generally the pad that is touching the piston wears down quicker so you want that pad on the inner side.
It would still squeal once it contacts the rotor. The general idea behind putting them on the inside is that people tend to think the pad on the piston side wears faster. I’ve never observed this to be true and feel the position of the squealer is a preferential thing. Personally, I think if you solely rely on this device to tell you that your brakes need replaced, you should rethink how you maintain your vehicle. You should inspect your brakes periodically to check wear, not rely on a noise making device with questionable reliability.
Some videos show people removing the electric parking brake motor and retracting the internal drive - manually or with a 12 volt jumper. You just retracted the piston, leaving the motor in place. That doesn't damage the motor's internal drive an any way , does it, when you retract the piston? Your approach is more straight forward.
Honestly, I think those doing those videos weren’t aware that some calipers require the piston to be rotated to insert it back into the caliper, regardless of whether or not there is an electric parking brake. I had no issues after doing it as shown here, the parking brake worked perfectly immediately after I put everything back together and tested it. Thanks for watching.
@@stuffyoucando2 After watching a number of videos. I now realize that the screw drive on the electric motor sets the piston position relative to the wear of the brake pads. When turning the piston back, it is setting the motor's screw drive positioner back to accommodate the new brake pads original dimensions. The piston bore is smooth - thus your approach is completely correct. I just don't have the 3 pronged device that fits into the piston's grooves. Most retraction devices have 2 or 4 prongs; even the Harbor Freight kit doesn't have the right part for Acura.
Thanks for your video - it helped me understand the dynamics of this system.
That’s correct, and it seems that to have a 3 point contact for rotating the piston is unusual, most I’ve had in the past have been two and you could get away with using a pair of needle nose pliers, but not in this case. I’m sure you can remove the parking brake motor as shown in other videos if you don’t have or aren’t able to get the tool. I got mine off the shelf at Autozone.
@@stuffyoucando2 Thanks for the tip!
No problem, good luck!
Beautiful sir, thank you sir ❤❤
Do you have a vid for the fronts? Awesome video btw
Thanks! I do, it’s here: ruclips.net/video/RY2jUGRu1I0/видео.htmlsi=UTcSY5wIoIDyqNEA
@@stuffyoucando2sweet thanks!
do piston have to be pushed in if just changing rotors?
Spend the extra few dollars and change pads at the same time.
Great Job
Thanks!
Thanks! but why don't set the electric parking brake before starting the job? is it unsafe, right?
If you set the electric parking brake, you won’t be able to remove the caliper as it’ll be clamped to the rotor. Make sense?
@@stuffyoucando2 Thanks! yes, that's clear.
@@bryanlee5390 great, thanks!
Thanks for the video, it's really helpful for me. Is the process the same for the front brakes? Can you please make the video for the front too?
The process will be similar except the piston should be able to be compressed rather than screwed back in. I do plan to do a video on front brakes, just not in the very near future. Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍🏼
Is this the same procedure with 2021?
To my knowledge there is no 2021 model year, Acura went to the new 2022 model from 2020. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acura_MDX
From where you got the brake pad and rotor , can you share pls
I bought them from RockAuto.
Where did you get your caliper piston tool?
The part number is at the beginning of the video. I got it from Autozone but it can also be found on Amazon as well.
@@stuffyoucando2 thank you.
@@geoffdyke702 no problem!
What rotors and pads did you switch to.
Raybestos pads and rotors.
You feel safe not using jack stands?
Do you think I crawl under the vehicle? I don’t…but if I did I’d be using jack stands.
Also, I list jackstands on the required tools (if desired). It’s really up to what you’re comfortable with. Knowing that for a job like this I’m not going under the vehicle I did not use them myself for this job.
Should use some thread locker for those bolts.
Thread locker is not necessary.
Thread locker is not required if you torque them to spec. You could, however, apply some anti-seize. I always do, bc I live in upstate NY.