Thank you. If you still have it, look into the ebay knockoff kits. I did a gasket delete and muffler mod on a 51 with those kits and that saw screams! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, it was a BIG help. I was stumped on the throttle rod back in position. I was having the same trouble of bogging down at reaching full speed. Cleaned very thing and I am back to cutting wood, saw runs better than it has in years.
Very thankful I have this model slight difference no bolt holding the air filter on it snaps in. Not at good an idea. Im 71 and my saw I bought new its been in storage for some years after a move to PA from NH it has always been in a case. It won't start and run but it will go for a few seconds. In my condition I may have it worked on by a local but it is tempting to get parts on Amazon and do the trouble shooting you did. At least I have a better understanding now of the fine points. Thank you again.
Thank you for the info. Just bought a 440 and doing a little pre-problem learning on what issues to watch for as this is my first husqvarna saw. So far after 2 weeks im a fan and happy with its performance
If you have a 55 that the OEM bolts strip out the plastic take two #8 x 3" exterior wood screws and trim them down until they are just a little longer then the factory bolts and they will grab really nice into the plastic to get a tight fit on the seal
This was super helpful, I have exactly the same issue! In my case it is one of the bolts into the plastic that was originally overtightened and is now partly loose...I was thinking of using threadlock for the screw + a bit thicker homemade gasket to ensure a propel seal...if not, then I guess my only option is a new intake bulkhead. The leak is however super small, I have to spray quite a lot of brake cleaner on the gasket and then it sucks it in...saw is running pretty stable even with the small air leak
There area that was exposed to the spray was a gasket leak that air was entering. When I added combustible liquid where air was entering, it flooded the engine because I changed its mixture. That area should be a sealed area and liquid should not change anything
Great video, thanks for posting. I own a 55 in which I am going to rebuild with a Hyway cylinder kit. Regarding the 1184 sealant, how difficult would it be to remove the sealant off from the surface near the impulse line and the intake boot if you had to go back in and perform work in this area? I agree with you that it is an awesome saw for its time and it's a classic. Although I do not need it, that saw was with me during thick and thin and it is a part of me. I feel a bit of loyalty towards it.
That sealer cleans up pretty well. It's not like glue, it's more like rtv but doesn't break down with gas as easy. Hyway kits are nice, just look out for casting slag. Built one with a meteor kit too which was a little cleaner. Good luck my friend
I feel connected with my Husqui too. My 55 is great I had a bigger one really hard working machine maybe turbo charged Husq forgot the model very nice to work with more power and 20 some inch bar to work on a property logging I went away to school and lent it to a friend and he got himself killed getting under a bunch of big trees he felled that tangled up he was found dead with my saw there. Some people should never be near one of these tools. But close calls can happen when careless
That was a good explanation. When you disconnected the fuel line and gas squirted out, it made me wonder if the vent for the fuel tank was occluded. Shouldn't the vent allow equalization of air pressure so you won't get pressurized fuel forced out when ambient temp increases?
You might like the permatex black pipe dope for sealing those items. It's also rated for gas and stays pliable. Probably more pliable than rtv style sealants.
Surely you have confused the metering diaphragm with the pump diaphragm, (at 23:16) The metering diaphragm does not pulse up and down being driven by the pulses from the port from the crankcase, it just receives fuel and when the chamber is full it allows the valve to shut off. The pump diaphragm is on the other membrane, (shown at 22:45) the same membrane that has the two valves and that is what is operated by the pulses from the crankcase.
I like to rotate the crank so that the piston blocks the intake port. It's just way too easy to drop things in there and if it gets down into the crankcase a simple 20-minute job turns into an all-day ordeal
It's nice to know someone cares about these saws like I do. My father bought this one early 90's ,she chopped wood for us many years, then about 3-4 years ago passed her to me. She has been Is crucial building my family life on a homeisteader in NC. Revealing said parts didn't seem to do the trick for me. It will run full throttle , and doesn't sound bad doing so. My fear of engine issues is growing. Sorry so long winded. It's nice to know there's still guys out there who care about more than Disposable equipment. Thanks
@Travis Van Wormer it runs good full throttle? Does it idle ok? If so, Turn the high and low jet screws clockwise and count the turns in on each. Then back out the same amount. You should have at least 1 full turn on each. I'm loading up a pressure test video and carb rebuild video with the 262xp videos for demonstration. These should help you diagnose. Keep me posted.
Only way I can start it is full throttle (no choke), with the low jet nearly maxed . I'm gonna tear deeper into the carb, as I only half heartedly cleaned it out thus far. Maybe I better bit to bullet and check the cylinder better first, I only looked at the bottom of the piston (looked smooth) when I had the carb off. I sure appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Just watched your last video , I glad someone is still making informative videos.
@@Travecmo pull muffler and check piston and ring on the other side of the cylinder. Also check if pull rope can hold the weight of the saw (field compression test). If those are good, you may have a collapsed fuel line or more likely, the small impulse hole on the carb gasket is blocked
My 55 won't run after engine rebuilt. It starts normally but engine dies after few seconds. It's actually third engine on this saw, previous engine which i installed worked fine over 8 years until the saw was getting really hard to start, cylinder and piston were scored. So i rebuild it again but it won't run. I used silicone sealant on cylinder seal, carb gasket and the intake boot. I didn't have new carb gasket and boot so i had to install the old ones, they seemed to be ok. I checked the fuel line and the filter and they were ok too. I also did the carb cleaner thing but nothing happened.
Sounds like the impulse line may ne blocked. (The yellow grommet on the bottom of the cylinder) or maybe it's got silicone blocking it. Also, did you use fuel resistant sealer?
@@RayofallTrades Yeah, the sealer should be fuel resistant as i have used it before on other saw projects with no problems. I have to check that grommet again, thanks!
Well, the small yellow grommet was missing, i didn't seem to notice it when i put the cylinder in place. Checked the old cylinder and it wasn't there, so it might have gone missing. I put three o-rings on the place of the grommet and the saw is now running fine, first 20 minutes on idle and then i cut one log. Let's see if the o-rings can withstand the heat.
Aussie here having trouble after turning saw off. Warm start and it won't fire up. Suspect that air is getting in somewhere it's a 395 xp Husky I have heard about metal impulse lines is this a fix for a common problem on these saws. Thanks in Advance. Jeff Moore
Probably need a little more digging. To warm start- does it need choke or full throttle or a bunch of pulls? Choke would indicate it lost fuel supply, full throttle would be flooded, and many pulls could be weak ignition.
Odds are the leak was in the pulse tube, it is a poor design and common failure point on Husky’s with that design. The 55 is a nice saw. Not a powerhouse, but will last for years if treated well.
Yes the impulse tube grommet is a common failure too. For some reason I seem to see more leaks at the intake boot though. I love those saws for power to weight ratio. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Not to be that guy, but just to keep the facts correct , the metering diaphragm reacts to the vacuum in the carb, the pump diaphragm is operating on the crankcase pulses (press/vacuum).
I didn’t have an oem kit on hand and needed to get this one back. The aftermarket kits I’ve found for the flange gasket on this particular saw model seem to leak. Thanks for asking and watching!
Good info… thanks! It’s a shame that Husky took a great little saw and put all that crappy plastic rig on the intake… I guess it’s still far superior to what they’re manufacturing today…
great vid but i have a husky 141 with low compression and want start, i have cleaned carb and looked in the inlet and exhaust ports and the piston looks brand new, how can i test for leaks if it don't start or do you have any tips what to look for as it does have spark fuel new filter and carb cleaned i'm at a loss so any help please
@@jaybillyjoshyou mentioned low compression. How did you determine? Rope hang method or compression tester? If the latter, what was the reading? Does it have a blue spark or yellow? Have you pulled plug to see if it’s wet when you are trying to start?
@@RayofallTrades first thing first I checked for spark of which I did have there was fuel on the spark plug, would not start so I stripped the carb down having bikes it was easy, still nothing so I did the drop test, as it seemed to have compression amid it was very slow before it went down strange I thought but then I did a compression test, I tried twice and max I got was 85 psi, I looked in the inlet and outlet port also the barrel and piston looked as good as new. It has free movement, I have now stripped to the engine to look at the seals and they look good as well I’m at a loss now, tia
Never spray brake cleaner. Use carburetor cleaner. Brake cleaner will take off all the oil that is lubricating the bearings, cylinder, and piston. Brake cleaner will also dry out gaskets and seals.
@@RayofallTrades break cleaner cleans all oil off where carb cleaner takes some off. Big difference for a 2 stroke motor, one takes all lubrication off the other takes some. No lubrication on a 2 stroke can score the piston and cylinder, which will ruin the motor. That's why when they assemble the motors they pre-lubricate the motor.
@@chadrogers4635 Thats a great point and question. I wonder if there is any significant lubrication in Gum Cutter? I know it melts plastic easily which is why I avoid it but it is worth investigating. When I can, I use premix under pressure for the very reasons you stated. Thanks for commenting and watching!
@@chadrogers4635 I guess all the hot saw builders are teaching us wrong then they all spray brake clean around the seals and intakes to check for leaks
I’m sorry I was lidded because I keep cat food out for our cat and police bitch gave me a ticket because my neighbor dog was lose … can’t believe it and when I tried to explain not my dog she said I’m going to the ground and jail Fking crazy cops
@@RayofallTrades I picked my 55 Rancher up about ten years ago now from a friend of mine, in the process of cleaning out the fuel tank vent, had a jug of bar oil leak on it and plugged it up, great light weight saw with plenty of power
Of every movie i see the same on every chainsaw, the cleaing its forgetting thing , its importent of the cooing.of the engine, the engine its not watercooled , but aircoolied...must ringing some bels then..
As a professional saw west coast operator this is a Great video !!! Walker saw would approve , I hope. They are my go to for knowledge
Thank you so much. Yes they are awesome folks over there! I appreciate you
I burned up my favorite saw with this problem. I wished I'd seen your feed sooner! Good work!
Thank you. If you still have it, look into the ebay knockoff kits. I did a gasket delete and muffler mod on a 51 with those kits and that saw screams! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the best tutorial on 50-55 series!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, it was a BIG help. I was stumped on the throttle rod back in position. I was having the same trouble of bogging down at reaching full speed. Cleaned very thing and I am back to cutting wood, saw runs better than it has in years.
Fantastic and thanks for watching!
I love my ole 55 its always been reliable and cuts like a champ. Glad to see this video in case i ever run into this issue with mine. Appreciate you.
Thanks so much for watching!
Very thankful I have this model slight difference no bolt holding the air filter on it snaps in. Not at good an idea. Im 71 and my saw I bought new its been in storage for some years after a move to PA from NH it has always been in a case. It won't start and run but it will go for a few seconds. In my condition I may have it worked on by a local but it is tempting to get parts on Amazon and do the trouble shooting you did. At least I have a better understanding now of the fine points. Thank you again.
Absolutely and if you have questions, reach out. Best of luck and thanks for watching !
Thank you for the info. Just bought a 440 and doing a little pre-problem learning on what issues to watch for as this is my first husqvarna saw. So far after 2 weeks im a fan and happy with its performance
Those are great saws. Keep premix correct and keep it clean and sharp. Will last a long time. A dull chain will burn em up though
that was a handy tip, spraying carb cleaner to detect air leak thank you for that
You're welcome and thanks for watching and commenting.
great presentation on intake leaks. thanks Mr. for the vid, it will not be lost on me
Thanks for watching and commenting friend
Thanks! I have a 268 with a similar issue. Different carb and intake setup but you gave me an idea on how to repair it.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks 👍😊👍 for sharing your thoughts it all helps
Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you have a 55 that the OEM bolts strip out the plastic take two #8 x 3" exterior wood screws and trim them down until they are just a little longer then the factory bolts and they will grab really nice into the plastic to get a tight fit on the seal
Cool I will I have to try that next time. Thanks for commenting!
The reason I don’t use battery tools putting them back together
Seems there is a lot of damage from the battery tools
You are exsacly what I was looking for. Thank you dude. Very much appreciated.
Fantastic! thank you so much for watching!
I appreciate you watching!
This was super helpful, I have exactly the same issue! In my case it is one of the bolts into the plastic that was originally overtightened and is now partly loose...I was thinking of using threadlock for the screw + a bit thicker homemade gasket to ensure a propel seal...if not, then I guess my only option is a new intake bulkhead. The leak is however super small, I have to spray quite a lot of brake cleaner on the gasket and then it sucks it in...saw is running pretty stable even with the small air leak
Might be worth an oversized screw or even some 1184 gasket sealer
just found your channel..great job on the video...thumbs up !!
Thank you very much!
can you explain why the enjin stop when you spray the brake spray?great video.thanks
There area that was exposed to the spray was a gasket leak that air was entering. When I added combustible liquid where air was entering, it flooded the engine because I changed its mixture. That area should be a sealed area and liquid should not change anything
The additional carb cleaner which is a fuel sucks up it’s drawing air around the intake mine roasted a piston cause of it new jug and piston
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Good straight up video
Thank you so much for watching and commenting
Good job! Thanks for the upload.
Thank you very much for the feedback!
Great video, thanks for posting. I own a 55 in which I am going to rebuild with a Hyway cylinder kit. Regarding the 1184 sealant, how difficult would it be to remove the sealant off from the surface near the impulse line and the intake boot if you had to go back in and perform work in this area? I agree with you that it is an awesome saw for its time and it's a classic. Although I do not need it, that saw was with me during thick and thin and it is a part of me. I feel a bit of loyalty towards it.
That sealer cleans up pretty well. It's not like glue, it's more like rtv but doesn't break down with gas as easy. Hyway kits are nice, just look out for casting slag. Built one with a meteor kit too which was a little cleaner. Good luck my friend
I feel connected with my Husqui too. My 55 is great I had a bigger one really hard working machine maybe turbo charged Husq forgot the model very nice to work with more power and 20 some inch bar to work on a property logging I went away to school and lent it to a friend and he got himself killed getting under a bunch of big trees he felled that tangled up he was found dead with my saw there. Some people should never be near one of these tools. But close calls can happen when careless
nice video with lots of detail. Just got a 55 and the recoil rope keeps breaking.
Sounds like it needs a new rope. I’ve had that issue too. Thanks for watching!
That was a good explanation. When you disconnected the fuel line and gas squirted out, it made me wonder if the vent for the fuel tank was occluded. Shouldn't the vent allow equalization of air pressure so you won't get pressurized fuel forced out when ambient temp increases?
Absolutely worth checking. keeping in mind the vent is usually slow to respond. Good idea and thanks for commenting!
Very good thank you.
Big help.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
You might like the permatex black pipe dope for sealing those items. It's also rated for gas and stays pliable. Probably more pliable than rtv style sealants.
I will have to check it out. Thank you!
Very informative, thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Surely you have confused the metering diaphragm with the pump diaphragm, (at 23:16) The metering diaphragm does not pulse up and down being driven by the pulses from the port from the crankcase, it just receives fuel and when the chamber is full it allows the valve to shut off.
The pump diaphragm is on the other membrane, (shown at 22:45) the same membrane that has the two valves and that is what is operated by the pulses from the crankcase.
Thank you Kevin. You are correct
Nicely done 👍🏻
Thank you!
Thanks for the knowledge
Thanks for watching!
I like to rotate the crank so that the piston blocks the intake port. It's just way too easy to drop things in there and if it gets down into the crankcase a simple 20-minute job turns into an all-day ordeal
Yeah that's a good point. Thanks for watching!
Hopefully you just saved my saw, thank you good sir.
Good luck and let me know if you have questions. Releasing a full rebuild on a similar saw tonight
It's nice to know someone cares about these saws like I do. My father bought this one early 90's ,she chopped wood for us many years, then about 3-4 years ago passed her to me. She has been Is crucial building my family life on a homeisteader in NC. Revealing said parts didn't seem to do the trick for me. It will run full throttle , and doesn't sound bad doing so. My fear of engine issues is growing. Sorry so long winded. It's nice to know there's still guys out there who care about more than Disposable equipment. Thanks
@Travis Van Wormer it runs good full throttle? Does it idle ok? If so, Turn the high and low jet screws clockwise and count the turns in on each. Then back out the same amount. You should have at least 1 full turn on each. I'm loading up a pressure test video and carb rebuild video with the 262xp videos for demonstration. These should help you diagnose. Keep me posted.
Only way I can start it is full throttle (no choke), with the low jet nearly maxed . I'm gonna tear deeper into the carb, as I only half heartedly cleaned it out thus far. Maybe I better bit to bullet and check the cylinder better first, I only looked at the bottom of the piston (looked smooth) when I had the carb off. I sure appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Just watched your last video , I glad someone is still making informative videos.
@@Travecmo pull muffler and check piston and ring on the other side of the cylinder. Also check if pull rope can hold the weight of the saw (field compression test). If those are good, you may have a collapsed fuel line or more likely, the small impulse hole on the carb gasket is blocked
AHA! Will get mine going again. Tks.
Thanks for watching
Great video.
Thanks for watching!
👍🆙AH
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thanks!
✌🍩
Thank you!
When testing in a cut, use the dogs to properly load the saw then use the dogs to overload the saw until the clutch slips
Great advice
My 55 won't run after engine rebuilt. It starts normally but engine dies after few seconds. It's actually third engine on this saw, previous engine which i installed worked fine over 8 years until the saw was getting really hard to start, cylinder and piston were scored. So i rebuild it again but it won't run. I used silicone sealant on cylinder seal, carb gasket and the intake boot. I didn't have new carb gasket and boot so i had to install the old ones, they seemed to be ok. I checked the fuel line and the filter and they were ok too. I also did the carb cleaner thing but nothing happened.
Sounds like the impulse line may ne blocked. (The yellow grommet on the bottom of the cylinder) or maybe it's got silicone blocking it. Also, did you use fuel resistant sealer?
@@RayofallTrades Yeah, the sealer should be fuel resistant as i have used it before on other saw projects with no problems. I have to check that grommet again, thanks!
Well, the small yellow grommet was missing, i didn't seem to notice it when i put the cylinder in place. Checked the old cylinder and it wasn't there, so it might have gone missing. I put three o-rings on the place of the grommet and the saw is now running fine, first 20 minutes on idle and then i cut one log. Let's see if the o-rings can withstand the heat.
@@XMP8000 nice! Good find and thanks for sharing the solution!
As long as you have the side covers off and the brake cleaner handy, spray some around the crank seals on both sides
Thanks! Great advice too!
Thanks for the vid. No way I could do it on the ground. Bench for me.
Have a bench now. I get that comment a lot. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Aussie here having trouble after turning saw off. Warm start and it won't fire up. Suspect that air is getting in somewhere it's a 395 xp Husky I have heard about metal impulse lines is this a fix for a common problem on these saws.
Thanks in Advance. Jeff Moore
Probably need a little more digging. To warm start- does it need choke or full throttle or a bunch of pulls? Choke would indicate it lost fuel supply, full throttle would be flooded, and many pulls could be weak ignition.
Odds are the leak was in the pulse tube, it is a poor design and common failure point on Husky’s with that design. The 55 is a nice saw. Not a powerhouse, but will last for years if treated well.
Yes the impulse tube grommet is a common failure too. For some reason I seem to see more leaks at the intake boot though. I love those saws for power to weight ratio. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Not to be that guy, but just to keep the facts correct , the metering diaphragm reacts to the vacuum in the carb, the pump diaphragm is operating on the crankcase pulses (press/vacuum).
Correct. Thank you
Good jobt
Thank you for watching!
Why didn’t you put a kit in carb, and reusing old gasket on carb flange?
I didn’t have an oem kit on hand and needed to get this one back. The aftermarket kits I’ve found for the flange gasket on this particular saw model seem to leak. Thanks for asking and watching!
What about the massive oil leak under the chain saw
Those saws oil on engine rpm. Not on clutch rpm
Good info… thanks!
It’s a shame that Husky took a great little saw and put all that crappy plastic rig on the intake… I guess it’s still far superior to what they’re manufacturing today…
You are right about that!
great vid but i have a husky 141 with low compression and want start, i have cleaned carb and looked in the inlet and exhaust ports and the piston looks brand new, how can i test for leaks if it don't start or do you have any tips what to look for as it does have spark fuel new filter and carb cleaned i'm at a loss so any help please
Low compression? Are the rings stuck?
@@RayofallTrades no rings seem fine as piston goes up and down ok theres no scoring on piston whatsoever so i'm baffled
@@jaybillyjoshyou mentioned low compression. How did you determine? Rope hang method or compression tester? If the latter, what was the reading? Does it have a blue spark or yellow? Have you pulled plug to see if it’s wet when you are trying to start?
@@RayofallTrades first thing first I checked for spark of which I did have there was fuel on the spark plug, would not start so I stripped the carb down having bikes it was easy, still nothing so I did the drop test, as it seemed to have compression amid it was very slow before it went down strange I thought but then I did a compression test, I tried twice and max I got was 85 psi, I looked in the inlet and outlet port also the barrel and piston looked as good as new. It has free movement, I have now stripped to the engine to look at the seals and they look good as well I’m at a loss now, tia
Mines got brand new rebuild the intake Leak .
Common issue.
What is 1184
1184 is a gasket sealer made by threebond. I have a link in the description.
What is it removable piece with two screws between the trigger and the clutch cover
Im sorry, im not sure what part you're referring to. The vent cover has 1 screw or the handle side cover perhaps?
On the right side in the back it has a top left bolt and bottom right bolt
I had to go look. Lol it's the vent cover. Under it(way in) is a vent to allow fuel to keep from vapor lock
Ok thanks that's a weird design
You need a work bench . Sheesh !!
Lol. I have one now. But thank you for the feedback and watching!
Never spray brake cleaner. Use carburetor cleaner. Brake cleaner will take off all the oil that is lubricating the bearings, cylinder, and piston. Brake cleaner will also dry out gaskets and seals.
Yeah carb cleaner is no better for the same reason but most people don’t have access to a premix under pressure. Thanks for watching!
@@RayofallTrades break cleaner cleans all oil off where carb cleaner takes some off. Big difference for a 2 stroke motor, one takes all lubrication off the other takes some. No lubrication on a 2 stroke can score the piston and cylinder, which will ruin the motor. That's why when they assemble the motors they pre-lubricate the motor.
@@chadrogers4635 Thats a great point and question. I wonder if there is any significant lubrication in Gum Cutter? I know it melts plastic easily which is why I avoid it but it is worth investigating. When I can, I use premix under pressure for the very reasons you stated. Thanks for commenting and watching!
@@RayofallTrades better in the long run to use the lesser of 2 evils.
@@chadrogers4635 I guess all the hot saw builders are teaching us wrong then they all spray brake clean around the seals and intakes to check for leaks
Looks like it has a oil leak. Lol
Don't they all???🤣🤣
Orange poulan
Not this model
I have a 136...gets hot and runs lean. To the point that 4 turns out makes no difference...new carb too.
Sounds like either crank seals or base gasket leak. Need to do a vacuum/pressure test
Ok get to your point
Yep it’s a chain saw
Dragging it out 😢
Sorry it's not your speed. Some like the explanations but thanks for the feedback.
I’m sorry I was lidded because I keep cat food out for our cat and police bitch gave me a ticket because my neighbor dog was lose … can’t believe it and when I tried to explain not my dog she said I’m going to the ground and jail
Fking crazy cops
I knew there was a problem with it when you had to pull it more than twice in t-shirt temperatures
Love these saws
@@RayofallTrades I picked my 55 Rancher up about ten years ago now from a friend of mine, in the process of cleaning out the fuel tank vent, had a jug of bar oil leak on it and plugged it up, great light weight saw with plenty of power
@@nothingtoitdm6191 the effort will be worth it.
Not a good design
Yes I'm surprised no one came out with a design that had nuts embedded in it and hose clamps
@@RayofallTrades or even a completely different cylinder
Of every movie i see the same on every chainsaw, the cleaing its forgetting thing , its importent of the cooing.of the engine, the engine its not watercooled , but aircoolied...must ringing some bels then..
You are correct. A cooler saw runs better and lasts longer. Thanks so much!
Don't you own a workbench?? Get off the ground!
Lol. Yes several. They were all full. Thanks for watching friend!
You have no table to work on these jobs ? Just sayin 🤷
I know. I'm working on getting set up. Thanks for watching!
Ditto!! He does good work, I bet he watches Donnie 73 small eng. Doctor
@@charliee7142 yes I do. He is fantastic to watch. Thanks for commenting and tuning in!
I'm just curious why you work on the saw on the ground ? Seems like up on a bench would be alot nicer on your knees
Lol you're correct. Bench was full and time was short. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I know how that is , both my workbenches are full right now Brother !!
What the hell is 1184
It's a semi-liquid gasket maker that is gas resistant. Link in the video description
Excellent video thank you very much for showing.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!