Tinman has absolutely no ego issues! So rare for a mechanic/tech. I admire this guy a lot! He's very open minded and appears to be in the student mode at all times. He loves sharing his knowledge and experience but he also loves learning and having FUN! Very inspirational!
Thankyou so much for the kind words!! I really really appreciate it. And for the record, I always say "the more I know the less I know" Every time I'm feeling cocky or that I know stuff a saw will teach me what's what. It's what keeps me playing with these simple but yet very complex machines.
The 266 was the first saw i rebuilt. I'm not gonna lie, I pulled my hair out a bit. The air leaks you speak of... and hot start issues... I'm sure glad anyone rebuilding one of those has this video to watch now. Take a tip from the Tinman, when you get frustrated, put 'er down and walk away for a bit. You'll SAVE time. I swear it.
Thank you a lot! I just recently bought a 266xp and right at the start the chain was spinning like hell! I though to myselft: well it's just some carb adjustment, nothing too bad. Then I tuned it, it was working fine, I mean really fine, this saw was like a little monster hungry for wood even entirely stock. And out of nowhere it starts to bug and stall... tried to tune it up again because somehow it had "detuned" while i was using it. Went at it for 1 or 2 hour without success trying to figure out why the hell i couldn't tune it right just like i did earlier. So I gave up and decided it was time to go learn some more stuff about chainsaws and particularily this one. Which is why i watch your videos! You made me realize that i had an air leak on my 266xp saw as well! It does exactly like you describe: rev up real high, goes back to normal, slow down and bog, then dies and that it cannot be tuned up because it's an air leak. Makes total sense now. Thanks a lot again i feel al little less at a loss now. Keep up the good work and the video's coming, it's really helpful!
I got a chuckle when you were talking about don't get frustrated. In my garage I call it needing a win when I start getting frustrated with a project. I always have several things in there I'm tinkering with at any given time and I just grab something else that just needs a easy fix. Really helps me clear my head when I have hit a wall with something.
I had a husq 61 with the grey top i got from my friend his dad ran a tree service in the 80s 90s and i had it rebuilt and i loved that saw it always ran great 👌
Put it down, sleep on it, great advice! Trying new things with all engines can be problematic. Many "mystery" problems can pop up. I have had air leaks in the carburettor itself. In through throttle shafts and through seemingly good gaskets into the metering diaphragm chamber. The engine may run great but have terrible idle. The air needed for idle on these small engines is tiny so even a minute seemingly insignificant flow of air along a throttle shaft can make a difference to idle. And as the shaft moves around the amount of leak changes and changes the idle behavior in a inconsistent fashion driving you crazy. Put it down, sleep on it.
Wow custom builds can be complicated and need custom tuning and alterations. Problem can be caused by alot of factors only understood through experience gained the hard way. Your appreciation of the workings of these saws is great Tinman.
You being a straight up dude... is fantastic... we can’t be afraid of failure...it’s really the only way to learn... sometimes you need to push the envelope... and I thank you for that. Love having a little window into another saw enthusiast world. Keep on Truckin!
Great overview Tinman!!! Building oldest saws can be full of issues to sort out and you showed how.....step by step!!!! Good advice on your carb tips.... it’s NOT stock anymore and Factory specs don’t always apply!!👍👍 Bang On!!!
I appreciate and enjoy your honest content. I always have multiple saws in process in the shop and there's almost always one that's a pain. Chuck it on the shelf and get something else accomplished. Frustration can suck the fun out of a great hobby.
I’ve been watching you since about 700 subs. Your a professional at building saws. I know you will never say that but it’s pretty clear that you are. You have built some amazing saws including my dream saw buckins homelite. I absolutely love that saw. Every time he puts up a new video I just hope to see him pull that saw out!!! I’m excited to see this 266 in the wood especially with a pipe. That thing is going to bark!!! Braaaaaap braaaaaaap!!! I’m especially excited to watch the p61 get ported because that thing is going to rip. The p38 and p51 IRONHORSE built for buckin are just unbelievable. So I know that when your done the p61 is going to be a massive powerhouse. Well have a great weekend and as always WORK SAFE 😎😎
I’ve built many 200 series Huskies. I’ve never had an issue with the crank seals but I’ve had terrible times with the intake gaskets. The aftermarket ones are the worst and I just make my own. Even if I’ve made one and had to pull the carb back off, I make another one. The sealing on the 200’s is a difficult thing to remedy. Not to mention to get it to seal exactly right need to pull the cylinder to get the intake gasket against the cylinder lined up. I’ve also had trouble in hot weather to have the 200’s vapor lock due to that intake block. Great saws when running right and you’re right when you port them for power like you have done, it makes air leaks worse. I know you’ll straighten it out but its a trying time to get there.
TINMAN thank you so much for sharing your troubles and being so humble. I just finished my husky 55 with a 028 super piston and it’s a bit spicier than anything I’ve built this far. Any way, it tends to die out after a big cut. I’m thinking now it needs more fuel. Thanks again for the tips and tricks.
Totally agree with taking a step back and letting a project rest if it's frustrating you. Ported a Mac 110 few weeks ago and it had bad air leak after assembling. So it is on the shelf till I get the time and desire to tear it back apart. There are lots of projects around the home place and 4 or 5 other saws ahead of the 110. Thanks Tinman can't wait to see the 266 in some wood.
Tinmaaaaan, super frustrating for you and I know you'll dial it in. When you hybrid anything there are obstacles to overcome. Stay at peace and you'll figure it out brother.. Love the build and support all that you share with us.. Cheers.
Mr tin Man I just wanted to say thank you for everything that you are teaching us I appreciate it and I have learned so much from watching you and Mr Harvey you guys are the s*** just a heads up everybody's buying highway parts from h&l and Wolf Creek although they're good and it's the same stuff you can go directly to highway and get them 30 to 40 to $50 cheaper if you go to highway small engine parts and order directly from them it takes a little bit longer like 3 weeks but the prices you buy three cylinder kits you can get one free for the price that you're paying you know what I mean once again Mr 10 man thank you sir
Saturday morning with coffee and Tinman, sorry mate coffee always comes first. Nice to see you don't walk on water. I always said good mechanics diagnose they don't just change parts until they get lucky. Picked up 2 Mac 10-10's, I'm going to see what all the fuss is about. I'm also exceptionally excited, because I may have a lead on a P51/P52. Cross your fingers. Thanks Tinman.
Have you ever delt with a saw that fires right up, idles, revs up good but soon as throttle is released, doesn't matter if you feather or hold it then release, it dies? Compression seems lowish can pick it up but barely. Oh it will do all the above mentioned with high and low about 1- 1 1\4 turns and screewed in completely yes zero, no the carb doesn't have governors at least not that can be seen. Its a Husqvarna 240. Thank you for your honest in depth explanation of thing's.
I have a 1985 266se among a collection of vintage husqies, it's cherry mint with a fresh rebuild and even the owners manual haha My favorite saw I own.
This is a vey useful discussion. I've had a Shihl FS66 brush cutter that is so small in displacement I consider a across between a chainsaw and a toy, but it has done huge amounts of trail work over the years. I recently replaced the seals on it and it ran about a tank before refusing to restart. I thought is might be it really needed the Shihl crankshaft seals that were no longer available forcing me to use generic double lip seals and I'd have to just try another brand. I pressure checked the engine and there were no soap bubbles around ether seal. My test set up is not that great and there is enough leakage back through the pump (maybe) and can't really say for sure where very small leaks might be coming from. I reasoned that is might be an air leak between the cylinder and the carb. block. Placing the carb. block on cylinder and using a bicycle inner tube to seal the outside of the carb. block with the carb. I discovered I got soap bubbles around the pulse channel under a pressure test! So I order a NOS gasket for this off of eBay. Shihl no longer produces it or I would of replaced it before. After ordering the NOS cylinder to carb. block gasket I saw a RUclips video about air leaks at the fuel inlet area to the carb. That area on my carb. looked like it was meant to rotate so I forced it once and it partially cracked the rubber part. So I decided to pressure check the carb. under water. When I did gobs of bubbles came out the venturi area of the carb with the slightest air pressure. There was really no resistance to flow. I undid the metering side of the carb, a Walbro 45A, and the needle lever was stuck all the way in. I worked it back and forth a few times till it was very free and reset the needle lever height to be level with the carb. body. I'd had it about the thickness of the needle lever above the barb. body. Now when I pressure checked the carb. under water there were no bubbles!. Evidently the fuel inlet to the carb. is actually meant to rotate and it was not leaking. So I did find an air leak around the fuel pump pulse channel at the carb. block, but it wasn't the reason the engine refused to start. The trimmer on its next outing had its recoil start pawl become detached melting into the starter rope wheel. Taking the mechanism out I discovered the bottom of the crankshaft seal had pushed out about 3/16" from the body of the engine. The top had stayed about 1/8" below the seal holding bore edge. This put an extreme angle on the crankshaft seal. The protrusion would of been out of the immediate area where the starter pawl had its circle clip so I'm not sure if they are related incidences. The bottom of the crankshaft seal slid back in with no drama. I'd had a very hard time getting the seals out and had cleaned and then lined the bore with B&S valve guide lubricant (anti-seize) to make future replacements less destructive. The seals where still difficult to get in. Once in thought they may of slid relatively easily because they went in further than I was wanting. They seem OK. I placed super glue around the outer edges of the seal and did that also on the flywheel side seal. The flywheel side seal had not moved.
*Thought it was just me brother, thanks for letting me know I'm not crazy. Working on a stihl 015 that I ported the crap out of last week. Saw wouldn't start at 1st, only popped late like the timing needed to be advanced. Advanced the timing and now the saw starts, runs strong and snappy like an ms200T but I can't get it to tune or idle right for anything just like the Husky in your vid. Been working at this 015 every 2 days for a week now, guess it's time to play with the needle lever in the carb some more. I have the needle as far up as possible without the needle letting fuel leak by when the saw is off so I dunno what else I should do here as of right now.*
I just did some carb maintenance on my very old Husky 61, and after taking the carb all apart, found that the small round internal filter was blocked with 3mm of very fine dust. So I looked at four of my 266s and a 50, by just taking the top square covers off. The 50 and one of the 266s had a little dirt in that filter, which was soon blown away by the carb spray. They all throttle up just like new now.
Hi tinman ...i brought back a 625 jr and had one bother that was so stubborn i need to come back to many times, it actually used to stall during flip test,(left side down).. i never right off a carb but eventually a replacement was ordered and instantly all issues went away.. its got a 266se cyl&piston ,lower trans opened,GD, muff exit opened,new fuel line&filter, no air leaks..❤👍
I've had good luck with shorting the spring a few coils to make up for idling speed it works well especially on the old coarse thread clutches where you don't have many options in clutch design
Amen to not forcing your will on any machine. When ya learn when to walk away it frees you from breaking stuff, and the solution comes to ya in your sleep somehow
Those saws were the early days and alot of prototype testing saws. From the 80s was not that great. Bread and butter saws as I call them. What i mean you can cut with them but you will not get a really good saw even if you tried. In my view Husqvarna became a more excellent saw in the 90s and until now. :) All the best. :)
Awesome video!!! Please Tinman, can you explain why a saw changes in idle when it is turned upside down? I have a 372 and a 3120 that both do this. You did it in your second test in this video but you did not explain what causes the saw to stall or change idle speed when flipped upside down. We would love to see a second video on carb tuning!!!! Thank you!!!!
Tinman !! Great info for us newbies ( I would have been trying to tune around the air leak for weeks ) lol. Could those plastic blocks be machined out of Billet Aluminum ? I haven't looked at one up close to see how complicated they are . Or maybe even 3D Printed .....
I e been wanting to get one machined for a while now, they are not real complex and good shopping with a 3axis cnc should be able to mill one or even ten pretty darn quick I've got a 272 project I am wanting to do a few things like that with just gotta have the time and money lol always something aint it
@@topchoppers7980 Absolutely Brother , time and money gets me every time . After having a couple days to think about my initial comment , I wonder if the billet aluminum would act like a heat sink and actually draw heat to the carburetor...causing the fuel to boil .
And mr tinman tends to push the limits just a liiiiiittle here and there hahaha, let me know yay or nay on a block of aluminum 6061, might be onto something, a solid fix for 200 series air leak problem averted
Tinman if I could say....get my hands on a solid block of 6061 aluminum to machine you a aluminum intake block out of? Problem solved right? Even carve little grooves around the ends like a flange, interested? Because I'm pretty sure I got a decent little chunk kicking around the shop somewhere
@@onestopfabshop3224 thats very true,,I don't have a 3x6 stock of stainless. But that is a very valid point but, I'd still give it a try if I had a machine shop
@@travisweldmaster7815 I have the material and capability, but not so much the desire! LOL but only because of that heat thing. I think a piece of a good hard hardwood would be better than anything metallic. You might laugh about the hardwood, but it might hold up better than you think. Kinda funny that the power saw may aid in the manufacturer of its own replacement parts! lol Thanks and take care
I'm going to have to tell our Oliver to look in here. We have a 266-XP which will either, start and idle, but bogs down when the throttle is opened, or, revs and runs like a hero, but is total pig to start and will not idle. There is no middle ground with it. It's a shame really, because it can [when it worked properly] slice trees like slicing bacon.
Hey tinman. Question on husky 240 the piston has ports on piston but they don’t go thru the piston. They don’t seem to line up with the intake but they do seem to line up with the upper transfer ports at tdc. They don’t appear to pull mix I. From the carb as they don’t really make it down to the lower transfer. what are they for??
Just did a cs-670 tonight, 5 pulls and it burped. Things are going to go ok I think. Got a ms440 that I have been troubleshooting for years, still don't have it perfect.
I have a 365 built in 1997 doing similar things might that be a good possibility it could be many other things also I think she's had very little maintenance I bought it used. As is
AND, and it’s a true 65cc not a 71cc like an xt variety. IF it was an xt then you could just work on the transfer port covers and have an instant 372. Donny Walkers channel covers that exact thing.
hi there you don't think it needs a little bit bigger main jet hole instead of just winding the adjustment out, won't you go past the usable adjustment if you go out to far?
I have a Husqvarna 448 X torq I did a compression check it was 35 I put a new cylinder in testing kit I didn’t know the compression check but I did not Seal the muffler and carburetor they told me it was the best thing that it sealed up but I looked at it when I took it apart it looks pretty plain to me so I just replaced it with a whole new one I tried to start it and it wouldn’t start I rebuilt the carburetor put it back Together still does the same thing it won’t start
I got a 07 yr modle 372xp it will only run on choke at wide open it got new carb rebuild kit in it .its had a new rebuild done it few years back piston cylinder walls look great nice clean it cant get it to idle itl run off choke for three throttle snaps then it bogs down/out will only start back once u choke pump it off choke it then pump it again itl rev snapp throttle then itl take three snaps of throttle then bog out would it be the cra k case bearing bushings seals I have no leak down tester fyi just going of what I'm getting from the saw it run super strong an good an clean just gotten fet this figured out to an idling free reving saw
Hey just 2 things come to mind. First I'd make sure the metering lever in the carb is set at the proper height, make sure the needle is opening properly. Second, you could have an air leak as that would make the saw lean and give you those symptoms.
Hello Tinman, I can't get mine work whereas it's a brand new (Chinese) chainsaw. On delivery, it worked well several times and all of a sudden it stopped. I checked out the carb (metering lever, gaskets, diaphragms, holes), the lines (vent, fuel, impulse), the ignition coil (2.47kOhms), the intake manifold (no cracks) even the clutch and the oil pump. No matter what I do with the fuel jet screws, the engine starts and operates for no longer than 2 seconds. I checked the spark plug and it was full of gas. Today I was lucky, it worked 10 sec. I'm wondering if air leaking crankshaft seals might be the cause. As I don't have any Mityvac, I can't be sure. It's hell! I'd be happy if you could advise me.
I see a saw up on the shelf with the pull rope on the clutch side, my buddy has one and it's the first one I've seen was just wondering what size it was
Hello! I have a husky 61 and 365 that both need crank seals. From your experience are any of the aftermarket seals good or should I stick with OE. Much appreciated!
the motor can not think you can just give it what its need well buck me 2 weeks later ///cam has 620 lift/ more carb 650 to 850 try that ///still not rite /right
What is a good number to use on vacuum 5 10 inches of mercury and leak down rate. And how much pressure can I put on crankcase 5 10 in psig . And leak down rate. Thank you!!!
Good questions, I’ve not found an exact answer to them yet. 10” is a good general number but I don’t know what an acceptable rate of leakage is. If any body (@Donny Walker) is reading this, drop in and let us know !
I asked the same question a while back, then I saw a video explaining it. Can't remember who. The side that is up when it occurs has a leak. If you turn the saw and the clutch side is up, then there is probably a leak in the clutch seal. It affects the saw because the fuel in the crankcase is heavy and wants to go to the lower part of the saw. Hope this helps.
Tinman has absolutely no ego issues! So rare for a mechanic/tech. I admire this guy a lot! He's very open minded and appears to be in the student mode at all times. He loves sharing his knowledge and experience but he also loves learning and having FUN! Very inspirational!
Thankyou so much for the kind words!! I really really appreciate it.
And for the record, I always say "the more I know the less I know"
Every time I'm feeling cocky or that I know stuff a saw will teach me what's what. It's what keeps me playing with these simple but yet very complex machines.
The 266 was the first saw i rebuilt. I'm not gonna lie, I pulled my hair out a bit. The air leaks you speak of... and hot start issues... I'm sure glad anyone rebuilding one of those has this video to watch now.
Take a tip from the Tinman, when you get frustrated, put 'er down and walk away for a bit. You'll SAVE time. I swear it.
I've just started rebuilding saws an I've run into many problems already your videos have helped me alot thank you
Sometimes peanuts, sometimes hulls,eh buddy. I knew you would get it dialed in!!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you a lot! I just recently bought a 266xp and right at the start the chain was spinning like hell! I though to myselft: well it's just some carb adjustment, nothing too bad. Then I tuned it, it was working fine, I mean really fine, this saw was like a little monster hungry for wood even entirely stock. And out of nowhere it starts to bug and stall... tried to tune it up again because somehow it had "detuned" while i was using it. Went at it for 1 or 2 hour without success trying to figure out why the hell i couldn't tune it right just like i did earlier. So I gave up and decided it was time to go learn some more stuff about chainsaws and particularily this one. Which is why i watch your videos! You made me realize that i had an air leak on my 266xp saw as well! It does exactly like you describe: rev up real high, goes back to normal, slow down and bog, then dies and that it cannot be tuned up because it's an air leak. Makes total sense now. Thanks a lot again i feel al little less at a loss now. Keep up the good work and the video's coming, it's really helpful!
I got a chuckle when you were talking about don't get frustrated. In my garage I call it needing a win when I start getting frustrated with a project. I always have several things in there I'm tinkering with at any given time and I just grab something else that just needs a easy fix. Really helps me clear my head when I have hit a wall with something.
I can relate
Absolutely. Too much aggravation is demoralizing.
I had a husq 61 with the grey top i got from my friend his dad ran a tree service in the 80s 90s and i had it rebuilt and i loved that saw it always ran great 👌
Put it down, sleep on it, great advice!
Trying new things with all engines can be problematic. Many "mystery" problems can pop up.
I have had air leaks in the carburettor itself. In through throttle shafts and through seemingly good gaskets into the metering diaphragm chamber.
The engine may run great but have terrible idle. The air needed for idle on these small engines is tiny so even a minute seemingly insignificant flow of air along a throttle shaft can make a difference to idle. And as the shaft moves around the amount of leak changes and changes the idle behavior in a inconsistent fashion driving you crazy. Put it down, sleep on it.
I like that you show the bad with the good and what you do to fix it
I agree completely on taking a step back on a project if your getting frustrated.
Wow custom builds can be complicated and need custom tuning and alterations. Problem can be caused by alot of factors only understood through experience gained the hard way. Your appreciation of the workings of these saws is great Tinman.
You being a straight up dude... is fantastic... we can’t be afraid of failure...it’s really the only way to learn... sometimes you need to push the envelope... and I thank you for that. Love having a little window into another saw enthusiast world. Keep on Truckin!
Great overview Tinman!!! Building oldest saws can be full of issues to sort out and you showed how.....step by step!!!! Good advice on your carb tips.... it’s NOT stock anymore and Factory specs don’t always apply!!👍👍 Bang On!!!
Can’t wait to see Buckin using that saw. I seen Bearclaw using your Homelite. Wow that saw is unbelievable . What a ripper. As always good vid.
It’s advice like this, that you struggle to get information for in aus…👌 thanks tinman !
I appreciate and enjoy your honest content. I always have multiple saws in process in the shop and there's almost always one that's a pain. Chuck it on the shelf and get something else accomplished. Frustration can suck the fun out of a great hobby.
Wow! Lots of good advice in this video. I am going to try that metering lever tip out on my 10-10. Thank you Tinman.
Thanks for sharing the problems you come across.
Great vid Tinman. I can’t wait to see it in the wood. I’m driving to Ottawa tomorrow to pick up a Homelite xl 922 and a xl super 130.
Awsome video man. I keep adding to my collection recently just got a older husky 545 and a 365!
Great that you explain the good, the bad, and the ugly so everyone knows it might not be all sunshine and cake walks. Be safe and be careful.
Great video. Got love hot rod saw.
I’ve been watching you since about 700 subs. Your a professional at building saws. I know you will never say that but it’s pretty clear that you are. You have built some amazing saws including my dream saw buckins homelite. I absolutely love that saw. Every time he puts up a new video I just hope to see him pull that saw out!!! I’m excited to see this 266 in the wood especially with a pipe. That thing is going to bark!!! Braaaaaap braaaaaaap!!! I’m especially excited to watch the p61 get ported because that thing is going to rip. The p38 and p51 IRONHORSE built for buckin are just unbelievable. So I know that when your done the p61 is going to be a massive powerhouse. Well have a great weekend and as always WORK SAFE 😎😎
Great sharing upload 👏 more rpm’s more fuel. Always makes sense 👍🇬🇧
I’ve built many 200 series Huskies. I’ve never had an issue with the crank seals but I’ve had terrible times with the intake gaskets. The aftermarket ones are the worst and I just make my own. Even if I’ve made one and had to pull the carb back off, I make another one. The sealing on the 200’s is a difficult thing to remedy. Not to mention to get it to seal exactly right need to pull the cylinder to get the intake gasket against the cylinder lined up. I’ve also had trouble in hot weather to have the 200’s vapor lock due to that intake block. Great saws when running right and you’re right when you port them for power like you have done, it makes air leaks worse. I know you’ll straighten it out but its a trying time to get there.
TINMAN thank you so much for sharing your troubles and being so humble. I just finished my husky 55 with a 028 super piston and it’s a bit spicier than anything I’ve built this far. Any way, it tends to die out after a big cut. I’m thinking now it needs more fuel. Thanks again for the tips and tricks.
Totally agree with taking a step back and letting a project rest if it's frustrating you. Ported a Mac 110 few weeks ago and it had bad air leak after assembling. So it is on the shelf till I get the time and desire to tear it back apart. There are lots of projects around the home place and 4 or 5 other saws ahead of the 110. Thanks Tinman can't wait to see the 266 in some wood.
Great vid Tinman. Thanks for letting us tag a long and learn.
Tinmaaaaan, super frustrating for you and I know you'll dial it in. When you hybrid anything there are obstacles to overcome. Stay at peace and you'll figure it out brother.. Love the build and support all that you share with us.. Cheers.
Awesome video tinman lots of helpful little tips an tricks
Mr tin Man I just wanted to say thank you for everything that you are teaching us I appreciate it and I have learned so much from watching you and Mr Harvey you guys are the s*** just a heads up everybody's buying highway parts from h&l and Wolf Creek although they're good and it's the same stuff you can go directly to highway and get them 30 to 40 to $50 cheaper if you go to highway small engine parts and order directly from them it takes a little bit longer like 3 weeks but the prices you buy three cylinder kits you can get one free for the price that you're paying you know what I mean once again Mr 10 man thank you sir
Offshore components, killing OUR economy!
That was a ripping episode of FNS.
Really good info and advice 👊
I've never had a saw with an air leak...thank God. I also don't work on the volume of saws as you do Mr Tinman.
Saturday morning with coffee and Tinman, sorry mate coffee always comes first. Nice to see you don't walk on water. I always said good mechanics diagnose they don't just change parts until they get lucky. Picked up 2 Mac 10-10's, I'm going to see what all the fuss is about. I'm also exceptionally excited, because I may have a lead on a P51/P52. Cross your fingers. Thanks Tinman.
Mornin buddy
Have you ever delt with a saw that fires right up, idles, revs up good but soon as throttle is released, doesn't matter if you feather or hold it then release, it dies? Compression seems lowish can pick it up but barely. Oh it will do all the above mentioned with high and low about 1- 1 1\4 turns and screewed in completely yes zero, no the carb doesn't have governors at least not that can be seen. Its a Husqvarna 240. Thank you for your honest in depth explanation of thing's.
I have a 1985 266se among a collection of vintage husqies, it's cherry mint with a fresh rebuild and even the owners manual haha My favorite saw I own.
GREAT VIDEO ,CONGRATS ON THE HOTROD SAW ,GREAT BUILD BUDDY
This is a vey useful discussion. I've had a Shihl FS66 brush cutter that is so small in displacement I consider a across between a chainsaw and a toy, but it has done huge amounts of trail work over the years. I recently replaced the seals on it and it ran about a tank before refusing to restart. I thought is might be it really needed the Shihl crankshaft seals that were no longer available forcing me to use generic double lip seals and I'd have to just try another brand. I pressure checked the engine and there were no soap bubbles around ether seal. My test set up is not that great and there is enough leakage back through the pump (maybe) and can't really say for sure where very small leaks might be coming from. I reasoned that is might be an air leak between the cylinder and the carb. block. Placing the carb. block on cylinder and using a bicycle inner tube to seal the outside of the carb. block with the carb. I discovered I got soap bubbles around the pulse channel under a pressure test! So I order a NOS gasket for this off of eBay. Shihl no longer produces it or I would of replaced it before.
After ordering the NOS cylinder to carb. block gasket I saw a RUclips video about air leaks at the fuel inlet area to the carb. That area on my carb. looked like it was meant to rotate so I forced it once and it partially cracked the rubber part. So I decided to pressure check the carb. under water. When I did gobs of bubbles came out the venturi area of the carb with the slightest air pressure. There was really no resistance to flow. I undid the metering side of the carb, a Walbro 45A, and the needle lever was stuck all the way in. I worked it back and forth a few times till it was very free and reset the needle lever height to be level with the carb. body. I'd had it about the thickness of the needle lever above the barb. body. Now when I pressure checked the carb. under water there were no bubbles!. Evidently the fuel inlet to the carb. is actually meant to rotate and it was not leaking. So I did find an air leak around the fuel pump pulse channel at the carb. block, but it wasn't the reason the engine refused to start.
The trimmer on its next outing had its recoil start pawl become detached melting into the starter rope wheel. Taking the mechanism out I discovered the bottom of the crankshaft seal had pushed out about 3/16" from the body of the engine. The top had stayed about 1/8" below the seal holding bore edge. This put an extreme angle on the crankshaft seal. The protrusion would of been out of the immediate area where the starter pawl had its circle clip so I'm not sure if they are related incidences. The bottom of the crankshaft seal slid back in with no drama. I'd had a very hard time getting the seals out and had cleaned and then lined the bore with B&S valve guide lubricant (anti-seize) to make future replacements less destructive. The seals where still difficult to get in. Once in thought they may of slid relatively easily because they went in further than I was wanting. They seem OK. I placed super glue around the outer edges of the seal and did that also on the flywheel side seal. The flywheel side seal had not moved.
*Thought it was just me brother, thanks for letting me know I'm not crazy. Working on a stihl 015 that I ported the crap out of last week. Saw wouldn't start at 1st, only popped late like the timing needed to be advanced. Advanced the timing and now the saw starts, runs strong and snappy like an ms200T but I can't get it to tune or idle right for anything just like the Husky in your vid. Been working at this 015 every 2 days for a week now, guess it's time to play with the needle lever in the carb some more. I have the needle as far up as possible without the needle letting fuel leak by when the saw is off so I dunno what else I should do here as of right now.*
Keep up your solid work.
You hot rod anything, there will be issues somewhere. You keep tinkering and sort them out one at a time. Keep at’r!!
Great to hear the trials ya went through. I got a sthil drivin me bonkers right now. Trial and error will solve it and gain wisdom!! STAY SAFE!!
Tinman and Friday,great combo 💚🌳💚🌳👍👊
Great show and tell.
Good information Tinman.
Great video
I just did some carb maintenance on my very old Husky 61, and after taking the carb all apart, found that the small round internal filter was blocked with 3mm of very fine dust. So I looked at four of my 266s and a 50, by just taking the top square covers off. The 50 and one of the 266s had a little dirt in that filter, which was soon blown away by the carb spray. They all throttle up just like new now.
The mind of a great diagnostician at work!
I’m building mine now! Thank you for the awesome videos. Yep more than 7 pulls bone empty I got issues. I instant message a question to you.
Hi tinman ...i brought back a 625 jr and had one bother that was so stubborn i need to come back to many times, it actually used to stall during flip test,(left side down).. i never right off a carb but eventually a replacement was ordered and instantly all issues went away.. its got a 266se cyl&piston ,lower trans opened,GD, muff exit opened,new fuel line&filter, no air leaks..❤👍
Thanks Great info
What can we say, only great content with Tinman on every vid 👍👍
I've had good luck with shorting the spring a few coils to make up for idling speed it works well especially on the old coarse thread clutches where you don't have many options in clutch design
Lean on the low end maybe carb or still sucking air spray and carb with wd
Master mechanic. 👍
Nice job
I’ve definitely had to put a saw back on the shelf for a few days.. they can make you pull your hair out. Lol
Yep they can be fickle creatures
I like using high tack on the intake gaskets seems to work well
Great advice 👍
Amen to not forcing your will on any machine. When ya learn when to walk away it frees you from breaking stuff, and the solution comes to ya in your sleep somehow
Yep 3am and boom "I know whats wrongs its the....." thats how it goes for me often
I’ve had that same epiphany! And suddenly, all the problems with my project were clear!
Those saws were the early days and alot of prototype testing saws. From the 80s was not that great. Bread and butter saws as I call them. What i mean you can cut with them but you will not get a really good saw even if you tried. In my view Husqvarna became a more excellent saw in the 90s and until now. :) All the best. :)
It's getting there 👍
I mess with saws to get away from the frustrations of partners, the internet etc, not the other way around!
Harvey had same issue with buckins boys 266 he battled for awhile
Awesome video!!!
Please Tinman, can you explain why a saw changes in idle when it is turned upside down?
I have a 372 and a 3120 that both do this. You did it in your second test in this video but you did not explain what causes the saw to stall or change idle speed when flipped upside down. We would love to see a second video on carb tuning!!!!
Thank you!!!!
Air leak
What pressure tester do you recliners Tubman? Love your videos
Tinman !! Great info for us newbies ( I would have been trying to tune around the air leak for weeks ) lol. Could those plastic blocks be machined out of Billet Aluminum ? I haven't looked at one up close to see how complicated they are . Or maybe even 3D Printed .....
I e been wanting to get one machined for a while now, they are not real complex and good shopping with a 3axis cnc should be able to mill one or even ten pretty darn quick I've got a 272 project I am wanting to do a few things like that with just gotta have the time and money lol always something aint it
@@topchoppers7980 Absolutely Brother , time and money gets me every time . After having a couple days to think about my initial comment , I wonder if the billet aluminum would act like a heat sink and actually draw heat to the carburetor...causing the fuel to boil .
Aaron and I blew up taz man’s saw twice chasing horsepower
And mr tinman tends to push the limits just a liiiiiittle here and there hahaha, let me know yay or nay on a block of aluminum 6061, might be onto something, a solid fix for 200 series air leak problem averted
Take er easy. 🤙
Could you please show us how you check a saw for air leaks ! thanks.
Tinman if I could say....get my hands on a solid block of 6061 aluminum to machine you a aluminum intake block out of? Problem solved right? Even carve little grooves around the ends like a flange, interested? Because I'm pretty sure I got a decent little chunk kicking around the shop somewhere
do it pls
I thought about doing that myself for one of my saws, but I didn't because I think it would transfer way too much heat to the carb.
@@onestopfabshop3224 thats very true,,I don't have a 3x6 stock of stainless. But that is a very valid point but, I'd still give it a try if I had a machine shop
I got the aluminum block, drops left over I could send out, I cant machinem but he can
@@travisweldmaster7815 I have the material and capability, but not so much the desire! LOL but only because of that heat thing. I think a piece of a good hard hardwood would be better than anything metallic. You might laugh about the hardwood, but it might hold up better than you think. Kinda funny that the power saw may aid in the manufacturer of its own replacement parts! lol Thanks and take care
I'm going to have to tell our Oliver to look in here. We have a 266-XP which will either, start and idle, but bogs down when the throttle is opened, or, revs and runs like a hero, but is total pig to start and will not idle. There is no middle ground with it. It's a shame really, because it can [when it worked properly] slice trees like slicing bacon.
Air leaks happen... I feel like that is a euphemism for something!
Hey Tinman, have you heard from Harvey? Haven't seen him for a couple of weeks. Thanks.
Hey tinman. Question on husky 240 the piston has ports on piston but they don’t go thru the piston. They don’t seem to line up with the intake but they do seem to line up with the upper transfer ports at tdc. They don’t appear to pull mix I. From the carb as they don’t really make it down to the lower transfer. what are they for??
Man, brand new saws, hedge trimmers, string trimmers sometimes they act up like this being brand new and in warranty. Many are a real pita 😱
In the end all it needed was a bar, chain and a tree to rip through. Did you ever do the moto seal on the carb?
Rubber boot intakes definitely better I use spray on gasket dressing for for intake block gaskets
Would u build a ms261 with the m tronic? / Recommend this saw?
I BET BUCKIN IS PACING THE FLOOR FOR THIS BUILD TO BE DONE
Hahaha prolly
Freaking old timmer
Just did a cs-670 tonight, 5 pulls and it burped. Things are going to go ok I think. Got a ms440 that I have been troubleshooting for years, still don't have it perfect.
I have a 365 built in 1997 doing similar things might that be a good possibility it could be many other things also I think she's had very little maintenance I bought it used. As is
AND, and it’s a true 65cc not a 71cc like an xt variety. IF it was an xt then you could just work on the transfer port covers and have an instant 372. Donny Walkers channel covers that exact thing.
Great site,I have a 266 with the 272 cylinder a bugger to start cold on choke but when hot it’s a 1 pull start ,any ideas please
hi there you don't think it needs a little bit bigger main jet hole instead of just winding the adjustment out, won't you go past the usable adjustment if you go out to far?
I have a Husqvarna 448 X torq I did a compression check it was 35 I put a new cylinder in testing kit I didn’t know the compression check but I did not Seal the muffler and carburetor they told me it was the best thing that it sealed up but I looked at it when I took it apart it looks pretty plain to me so I just replaced it with a whole new one I tried to start it and it wouldn’t start I rebuilt the carburetor put it back Together still does the same thing it won’t start
Hey Tinman, what are the best saws every made, in your opinion. I'm a fan of older Stihl models, but would like to hear your opinion.
I'm thinking about putting a big bore kit on my 272xp, should I have to address air leaks? For me it's more for torque
I got a 07 yr modle 372xp it will only run on choke at wide open it got new carb rebuild kit in it .its had a new rebuild done it few years back piston cylinder walls look great nice clean it cant get it to idle itl run off choke for three throttle snaps then it bogs down/out will only start back once u choke pump it off choke it then pump it again itl rev snapp throttle then itl take three snaps of throttle then bog out would it be the cra k case bearing bushings seals I have no leak down tester fyi just going of what I'm getting from the saw it run super strong an good an clean just gotten fet this figured out to an idling free reving saw
Hey just 2 things come to mind.
First I'd make sure the metering lever in the carb is set at the proper height, make sure the needle is opening properly.
Second, you could have an air leak as that would make the saw lean and give you those symptoms.
Hello Tinman, I can't get mine work whereas it's a brand new (Chinese) chainsaw. On delivery, it worked well several times and all of a sudden it stopped. I checked out the carb (metering lever, gaskets, diaphragms, holes), the lines (vent, fuel, impulse), the ignition coil (2.47kOhms), the intake manifold (no cracks) even the clutch and the oil pump. No matter what I do with the fuel jet screws, the engine starts and operates for no longer than 2 seconds. I checked the spark plug and it was full of gas. Today I was lucky, it worked 10 sec. I'm wondering if air leaking crankshaft seals might be the cause. As I don't have any Mityvac, I can't be sure. It's hell! I'd be happy if you could advise me.
I see a saw up on the shelf with the pull rope on the clutch side, my buddy has one and it's the first one I've seen was just wondering what size it was
Thats an old 1960s McCulloch super 10-10, 54cc
My 372 which was my first port attempt and it’s been leak city lol what a pain
Hello! I have a husky 61 and 365 that both need crank seals. From your experience are any of the aftermarket seals good or should I stick with OE. Much appreciated!
I find mpst aftermarket crank seals work just fine.
@@tinmanssaws Awesome! Thank you very much!
Hope you can help me I have a 450 husqvarna new carburetor and it still will not run any Ideas
Tinman motoseal is the best!
Or did you lower the intake
the motor can not think you can just give it what its need well buck me 2 weeks later ///cam has 620 lift/ more carb 650 to 850 try that ///still not rite /right
A 266 is real similar too my old 61 right ?
Same chassis, the top end is different.
What is a good number to use on vacuum 5 10 inches of mercury and leak down rate. And how much pressure can I put on crankcase 5 10 in psig . And leak down rate.
Thank you!!!
Good questions, I’ve not found an exact answer to them yet. 10” is a good general number but I don’t know what an acceptable rate of leakage is. If any body (@Donny Walker) is reading this, drop in and let us know !
They can be different on every saw
So when you're tipping your saw all around and your idle changes or engine dies, what is that telling you?
I asked the same question a while back, then I saw a video explaining it. Can't remember who. The side that is up when it occurs has a leak. If you turn the saw and the clutch side is up, then there is probably a leak in the clutch seal. It affects the saw because the fuel in the crankcase is heavy and wants to go to the lower part of the saw. Hope this helps.