Thanks Tom. They are well built saws and a pleasure to work on. Although it running a lot better, still concerned about the lack of power. The Facebook one made the cut in about 8 seconds. Stanley’s in about 14 seconds. Might pull the exhaust and see if there is damage to the new top end given it was run with an air leak. Maybe a part 2?
@@jcondon1 yeah, Stanley’s was too lean at 12k rpm, I’d have gone richer to match the aftermarket piston and cylinders requirements. I agree with you too, after market parts will almost always preform sub par to oem. They never get the port timing, shape and flow like oem do and thus you get reduced performance like you’ve shown. It’s a great comparison you did at the end. Well done 👍 edit: re pulling the muffler, good call, it’s the first thing I do on a 2 stroke :) although compression was fine at just under 150, skirt damage can sometimes reduce the effectiveness of post sealing and when warm, the piston can expand and the transfer on the cylinder from piston can contact one and other and start to cause drag and then strange running symptom when it’s heat soaked, won’t idle, hard to restart :) also, if a saw loses pressure quickly but slowly or not at all on vacuum, it’s most often intake manifold if they’re rubber, commonly, but not always, in the pleats 👍👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs it was lean. Did that on purpose to see if I could close the performance gap. Unfortunately that is all it had. Pulled the exhaust to take a look. Piston and rings looked ok. No scoring, but the skirt seemed to have more wear than I would have expected. ruclips.net/video/W9SfRdr75fM/видео.html
@@jcondon1 difficult to see the piston skirt in that video, but I think just port timing and materials are a huge contributor here. It’s quite well known that aftermarket just don’t preform like oem.
Quite agree. My other half (bless him) lent tools to other people, only to find that they're buggered up when handed back. He's learnt his lesson the hardway. Most stores sell all sorts of tools, in all price ranges. So why bugger up someone elses equipment when they can buy their own? Top marks on another good vid James. Wayne & Nina 👍👍👍👍👍👍😊😊😊😊😊😊❤️❤️
I was recently reminded of why I don't lend out tools, even to someone that is experienced at what they do. When it's not yours (oftentimes) it is not treated the same. In this case, the person just didn't know that you cannot run straight gas in the saw. But when they go to such great lengths to make it right, you know they are good people!
Well, maybe. The destroyer used chinese parts instead of OEM. Jury is out on this point. You do have to wonder why/how someone "experienced" is filling the tank with straight gas.
A cousin of mine came to me the other day to give him a wood splitter...and I told him to go get it. When he got to it he noticed it was defective (something I was aware of because that's how it got back to me from the last person who asked for it) .. and he came to me to tell me... I replied that I knew this aspect, and he wonders why I sent him to get it in the first place. ..I told him that if I refused it from the beginning, he probably thought that I didn't want to give it to him ... and I also told him that since I received it defective, I stopped lending tools. He turned his back and left without even greeting 🫡
I had something similar happen when a neighbor borrowed one of my chainsaws. They forgot to fill it with bar and chain oil and burnt up the bar and chain. He made it right and bought a new bar and chain and chain
Wish we had youtube and content like this when i was a kid and trying to get the family's push mower going. Luckly i had a kind elder gentleman that went above and beyound to teach me and keep that mower going. That was 48 years ago, but still remember him and his kind ways.
HI James, good video. The friend did try to make things right, that counts for a lot. I lent one of my saws to my neighbor and it never ran again, he fried the mag. he never made good on it. I don't lend anything to anyone anymore. Rich
This man does an amazing work explaining and fixing small engine equipment , he works very clean that he can go to church right after doing a repair and you'd never guess what he does 👌 You sir deserve many many more subs'ers !
I'm a technician for factory owned branch of the BIG EVIL tool company and I have taken away more knowledge and skills from watching your videos than 15 years of working for this company. THANK YOU!
Just found you, and appreciate your style. As a former aircraft, truck, motorcycle mechanic I am venturing into saws 😮. My recent experience with a recalcitrant Stihl made me aware of degeneration of the hoses. In future endeavors I will be more aware of damage to both gas and vacuum lines ( my long sought after issue). The pressure/ vacuum test really shortens this process. Side comment- a mud flap or door mat on the steel bench is easier for you and the saw😂. Enjoyed!
_"I hope this video helped someone."_ I'm confident it did with many re: mechanical repairs-but in my case it did/does for another reason. Because my "chainsaw use" and subsequent "repair days" are behind, your videos simply make for a more enjoyable day. Thanks James-God bless.
James, you deserve a high paying show on discovery or something. Excellent narration, logical, no music (so nice!). You are a great teacher, not to mention your mech/tech skills! Thanks you very much!!
I've been waiting for 2 years to eventually find that "AHA!" moment for my weedwhacker. I believe this is the issue with it. Thanks again! Even though I have more time and money into parts than I would into a new weedwhacker... I just can't let go. I gave up on a lawnmower a few years ago and I regretted it 1 week after I did so when I watched a video, likely one of yours, where someone had hit a rock and twisted the plastic cam gear.
Thanks so much for posting from the UK - the step by step diagnostics and partial breakdown gave me confidence to refurbish passed Father in Law's saw, instead of buying a new one - Happy Mother in Law, Happy Wife, Happy Life - I Owe You Dude
That was a great video, James. Lovely of you to help Stanley out, I know he's been a good contributor to your channel. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Good camera setups, no extra talking, and a competent, experienced host. Some days I learn with you, and I always learn from you. Thanks for the videos.
I just smile watching your video here. Funny that back in 2004 I was about 14 and had a 028 that used to be my grandpa’s and I got it when he passed away. It didn’t run right and I took it to my local stihl dealer and they told me it was terminally damaged. Told me to put it up on a mantle as a memoir of grandpa. Basically charged me 25$ for a estimate and gave it back to me in pieces and a ziploc of screws for the top cover and carb. When I got home I was putting it back together and ended up noticing the intake boot off at cylinder. Not knowing much at the time I put the clamp back on and it ran great. Set me down a career path for sure😊 great video!
I've got my granddad's 028WB. I used it for years to cut firewood. It's been sitting a long time, but I know it'll come right back to life with this kind of attention.
You have the patience of a saint, watching you fix that I was wondering how many 4 letter words or how many times the tools would have went across the shop... Good on you James
Any Stihl Saw 026 AV or like this one 028 is a great buy!!! Those days they was Way better than todays Stihl chainsaws💯 Running perfect 20-30 years no problem! After Many years the membrane in the carb gets petrified… Mostly only issue🤷🏼♂️
Great video. I recently watched another video where the chain oil flow was restricted even with the max oiling pump setting. The problem was a factory defect on an OEM vacuum relief check valve on the oil tank. The chain and bar ran hot even with a small oil flow on the test until it was replaced.
I had a small problem with oiling on my old Stihl 041AV some years back. After cleaning it good still not enough oil. I put a little kerosene in the bar oil to dilute it a little and that worked to get the oiler working good again. In case some folks don't know if their chainsaw chain is being oiled properly, simply start the saw, run it at full speed and hold the tip of bar above some newspaper or cardboard and you should see spattering of oil on the paper....then you know chain is lubed properly.
I rebuilt a saw top end a couple years ago. I believe it has this exact same issue. Meaning the crankcase leak. I had it running, but it was doing the cut out thing too. I put it on the shelf. Now I want to get back at it and try what I saw in this video. I love learning things :D
Excellent troubleshooting and instructional video! I've been a Stihl tech for a few years and not run into this problem before so this is good training for me! Well done Jim!
7:00 As an aside, if the engine has unknown history when doing that first start, I’d recommend running it for 5-10 minutes first, to let the diaphragms flex a bit in case they were stiff from sitting. If you adjust the carb before that, you’ll end up having to go back and correct again after the diaphragms become flexible. This may lead to confusion on what’s happening.
I want the saw to 4 stroke when it's free but run clean when it's in the cut. Yea, you have to give the saw a few hard cut before you touch the mixture screws
I got goosebumps watching you assembling those chainsaws with the spark plug still connected. My father always said "Pull the spark plug connection on anything before assembly or disassembly!"
My father has the same model, 028 Super AV. He uses it every year for firewood cutting. Since the eighties, he used it with Stihl mineral oil(red HP) with around 1:25. No problem with his saw.
Hello James: As usual a top notch instructional video. You are getting a very good inventory of test equipment. Plus in this video new Snap Ring Pliers. This video demonstrates exacrly why many small engine shops do not work on 2 cycle engines unless it is warranty work. It is just too time intensive to make a ptofit on. Kudos to you for showing in detail to the DIY capable of repairing their unserviceable but repairable equipment. Here are 2 more saved from the land fill to work again.
I own a small engine shop that specializes in 2 stroke equipment, mainly Stihl. I haven't worked on an old 028 in a long time. Those things sure were built well. You did a great job on that repair!
Reminds me of when i got my Stihl 025 last year. Put a new carburetor, fuel line and impulse line and 4 pulls later it fired up. Still runs great just waiting for my new skip tooth chain to come in. Had to use it Tuesday after a tornado came through southern Ohio early Tuesday morning
Same storm came through southern Indiana. I’ve been busy cutting up trees. As of today, I’ve been without grid power for 4 days. I’ve been running the generator for that time and gas ain’t cheap.
Odd a guy has the know-how to rebuild the top end but straight gasses a chainsaw, must be more to the story I'm sure! Anyways that was a good 2-stroke carb tuning vid and troubleshooting with the pressure tester. Now he has 2 good saws, well done.
I was expecting every seal to have a leak. Not too bad for the guys first rebuild. I was told he had the cases split, but am thinking he may have just changed the jug and piston which is why he had trouble with the boot.
Great Episode! Great troubleshooting! One thing though: top speed. I believe that you adjusted the high speed as high as it would go. Several other 2-cycle specialists, Chicanic (who sees hundreds of 2-cycles in her shop every year) has emphasized repeatedly that setting it to as high as it goes runs the risk of burning up the motor. She suggests finding the high spot and backing out the needle to take off (I don't remember her recommended number, it may vary by type of equipment) a small amount, something on the order of a few hundred rpm. That slight extra rich mixture is intended to improve the lubrication and reduce wear and heat. FWIW. Could be that weekend users may never see the difference. She deals with a lot of pros who use their equipment heavily. Anyway, you, once again, have probably saved a few thousand pounds of stuff from being dumped in landfills with a single video.
Many years ago (started in 1973 straight out of high school and worked there for 15 years) I worked for the largest outdoor power tool distributor at that time in the USA. We were a distributor for McCulloch Chain saws, Merry Tiller, Snapper Mowers, Weed Eater and many more products. Although I never worked on chain saws I learned a little bit about the saws from the mechanics that repaired them. We all worked in the same shop and it was pretty loud sometimes :). We were also a distributor for Jacobson Turf equipment and many other lines and that's what I worked on. I was also told by the mechanics that worked on the saws to always adjust the high speed on a 2 cycle at full speed until it screamed as fast as it would go and then back the high speed adjustment off until it fluttered. I was always told that this would give the saw more power when under a load and keep it from leaning out too much and burning up. Back then McCulloch used a chrome cylinder in the newer saws which meant that if you ran raw gas in them you had to replace the cylinder and the piston because they could not be rebored. The older large saws had a cast iron cylinder that could be bored and repaired. I still have a Pro Mac 700 that I bought in 1988 when I left the distributor and although I can't get parts for it any more it still runs very well after all these years.
Sometimes ya just run across a channel that quickly becomes your "go-to" for information above all others....and you sir, you are now my chainsaw guru lol. Seriously...great videos man. No fluff, crap, misinformation, stupid sales junk. Thank you for the awesome videos. You are to chainsaws as Project Farm to product testing lol. Highest compliment I can give fr. Take care
Stihl have my 031AV purchased new in 1972. The salesman said: take reasonable care of it and you'll never wear it out. Nice job with the troubleshooting and repair.
Well done James. That seal leak was epic! I agree...I have no idea how that saw was running at all much less only exhibiting an annoying tendency to stall after idling.
I've had a Stihl 024 AV since 1985. Out of all the tools I own, that one alone is the most dependable and reliable. Even after 39 years, it's my go-to saw and starts and performs every time I need it. With regard to the air filter at 1:05:10 - while there are better filter designs now, that clone is a faithful copy of what Stihl used. My 024 came with that plain screen filter from the factory and I ran it for many years.
i had 028av supers that would never idle slow enough to allow the chain to stop moving no matter the adjustments. Keep in mind they 028 av's were built before ethanol fuel. love your vids!
Hello James, I've been binge watching your videos for a while and subscribed, love your channel👍 I cut a maple down last Saturday with my Stihl MS250, bought it new in 2018, best chainsaw I ever owned. You can't beat a Stihl for high RPM and fast cutting. Take care my friend, just a Canadian Guy from Eastern Ontario.
I wanted to thank you for your repair videos. I recently got my 50cc Poulan chainsaw running that has been sitting for 8 years. I ordered a clone carb kit with fuel lines. Glad I did because during disassembly I found the fuel lines had cracks half way across the line near where they attached to the carb. So I am sure my old carb is probably ok but it fired right up with the new lines and clone carb. God Bless.
Good timing James! I was out with my 034 the other day, and it started idling funny and then it bogged. I brought it back to the garage, drained the fuel and bar oil. The impulse and fuel lines were replaced a few years ago with OE. I’ll be checking the filter, lines, boot, and crank seals. In that order.
True, but sometimes a necessary evil. I have fewer problems with the ones that are squeezed together to remove and install. The ones that spread apart can be a little contrary.
I regularly retuned my father-in-law's saws for him. One day he asked me to fix one. It was in little pieces! He had it in the tractor bucket and was coming back up out of the trees and running his brush hog as he came up the trail. The saw got flipped out of the bucket and the brush hog chewed it up! We all got a nice laugh out of that, then he went and out and bought new saw!
I found a Husqvarna 440 on Marketplace a few months ago for $10, the guy said he couldn’t get it running. Apparently if you put a chainsaw away that is caked in layers of wet sawdust, it won’t run the next time you need it! Took me a few hours to clean but it rips now!
Great watching you working around your problems, James! Very relaxing. Good camera. Good dialogue. Fine editing! I was a commercial tv broadcast technician, so I can verify you do an excellent job! Keep it coming! Watching from Hawai’i…Aloha 🫎
If you’re going to lend your saw out simply “give” your friend a jug of mixed fuel telling him to only use that fuel. Also if your friend doesn’t know that EVERY chainsaw takes mixed fuel I wouldn’t feel too comfortable about them rebuilding it! BTW James I’ve been watching your channel for a year now. I’ve learned a lot and find the content very interesting and informative!
Well done on chainsaw video. I have been using the ultrasonic cleaner to clear the low speed and high speed circuits with great success. Those passages are smaller than the filter on the fuel line in the tank.
This helps me, I'm a just a tinkerer and have always tried to fix my own and do pretty well. I have a couple chainsaws that I've revive, but this one stihl , think its a 192, I have always tuned it ok till it accelerates like Stanleys. I was sure it has a leak but didn't think about the boot or other avenues, always thought it was the carb or seals on the carb. Gonna check it out this week, Thanks.
An update on the MS 192tc, Well I followed the air paths and found a gasket on the backside of the carb that wasn't suppose to be there, some idiot must have left it there as a place holder and forgot to remove it before installing carb. Unfortunately I'm the only one who worked on it. Anyway that fixed the problem and it runs like a champ now. Thanks again.
Cannot thank you enough for all the videos, James! Gave me the knowledge to replace the carb (and many other maintenance parts) on the very first chainsaw I ever bought. Had the exact same issue when throttling up and ordered a $14 clone carb kit. Extra useful was the detail on tuning it. A few adjustments like you showed and runs better than ever!!! Thanks!
@@jcondon1 Pretty sure it's gonna be an easy fix. It's rarely been used since new ( along time ago) and was always been stored inside time ago. You'll see when you receive it.😁
Nice evaluation and repairs/adjustments on the Stihl saws. Thanks!1 My Stihl repair guys tell me that the older models are built and run better than the newer models. QUALITY of construction of new saw is LESS but the cost is more. WHY??
You never loan out anything you aren't willing to risk losing.You never loan out anything which requires brains to use correctly. You never loan out anything which has easy-to-reach adjustments someone can screw with. If someone regularly needs something they will have it. If someone needs something because they didn't have the foresight to see the need ahead of time beware their intelligence level. Borrowers usually lack the experience needed to use something correctly so whatever you loan them must be as stupid-proof as possible. Never a borrower or a lender be. I had an old Stihl 058AV and it was a real workhorse. So powerful so as to be almost dangerous. Having moved and no longer needing it, I gave it to a friend who used it in partial trade for some tree-work she needed done. The arborist was happy to get it and gave her a good discount for it. They sure don't make them like that anymore.
Do you mean a 056 AV or 038 AV Stihl never made a 058 AV. I have a 056 Magnum II that's an animal slow but it cuts through anything . Can't bog it down . I lent it to a friend and gave him a brand new jug of bar oil . When he gave it back the bar was and chain were shot and the jug was unopened. I asked didn't you use the bar oil ? He said it was to messy . Now like you say I don't lend out anything to anyone. Every time I did I got screwed.🍻
@@Spitter-ud8jd Memory fails me as that was around 30 years ago but it was a big one, and there was no bogging it down. The bar was at least 24", probably longer. Never used anything like it before or since, but I don't often use a chainsaw and don't know a lot about them.
Couple hints for you. starting a cold saw set your choke and throttle and then pull it slow a couple times to prime the fuel system. When adjusting carb screws start at 1 1/4 or what the manufacturer says if known then when running go clockwise till it goes slower then back it out till it hits its highest speed then go just a little more. A little on the rich side is better. Stanley's saw is on a fresh rebuild and will probably take a little while to break in. After a tank of gas has been run through it retune the carb. NOW stanley has his saw and one to loan out.
A couple of years ago I saw a JBC soldering station and fell in love, but it was expensive. Almost 1000$. Then I saw a chinese wannabe JBC using the same cartridge tips as the JBC. A 192Watt soldering station. So pretty hefty if you have the right tips. Aixun T3A with the T245 handle for the JBC C245 cartridge series.
I hope that is it. I pulled the exhaust tonight to make sure the piston and cylinder were good. Was concerned that the intake boot being the way it was may have caused damage, but things look good.
Great work again. I would have pressure/vacuum tested the fuel system too. Perhaps the old screw radiator hose clamp of the intake boot could be upgraded to the new spring type. These type will never leak. Ok the guy who took it previously apart did not tighten it but anyway screwclamps always loosen up with heatcycles. On the "slow" saw I missed the fourstroking" at full throthle when tuning, so possibly could have opened up de H more(lower speed but more pull)
@@jcondon1 ok, good to see the performance difference between aftermarket and OEM. Maybe it improves when the piston and rings are more seated in? Regarding the comment on pressure testing the fuel system. RUclips channel "Married with small engines" does it standard and I think that's really good. Sometimes tanks vents are not fully ok anymore and together with a clogged fuel filter or a tiny crack in the fuel line causes misdiagnoses on for example the carburetor. Still great work and keep it up. Especially the consistency of diagnosing is of a very high level🤩.
James, the way that I check for air leaks on saws is with break cleaner. Just spray it in the areas which may be leaking. Put the engine at an idle and spray around the possible leaking areas. When it hits the leak the saw will die in a split second.
Excellent video 👍 Could be the bottom end bearings of Stanley's saw were slightly damaged during the time it was running on straight gas, that would be enough to account for the slower RPMs and lower power output. At least Stanley has the FB saw that seems to run great.
@James: I commend you on your patience with these chainsaws and 2 cycle engines in general. I’m very comfortable around 4 cycle but 2 cycle is always a challenge. Everything is so compact, assembly order is crucial. When I watch vids on equipment like this, I try to imagine the factory assembly process. Great video. Thanks.
When we tuned the carbs on old 2 stroke outboards, we always started adjusting the HI speed needle first, then after that issue was addressed, then we'd adjust the LOW speed idle needle. Just my experience (I owned an outboard repair business for many years).
I have to say "KUDOS" to Stanleys friend who borrowed the chainsaw then went above and beyond to make what wrong he created, right. Very honorable dude and he has my total respect.
This was a surprisingly satisfying video to watch. Why ? Cause I dont own a stihl chainsaw :-) ( mine are husqvarna) but this video was so well explained and the meticulous troubleshooting was awesome to watch. Kudos to the author James - this was well done!
Hi James, another great video! Just a thought but maybe the Stanley's saw needs a couple of tanks of fuel ran through so the new piston, rings and sylinder will wear a bit. After that you will get the best HP out..
I learned a lot from, and feel really impressed with this video. Thank you for posting it. I think the younger generations in my family lines can make excellent use of and learn many things from your videos. As many others say in the comments....your diagnostic skills are superb.
Great video well shown step by step to test for possible problems and fixes . One thing you may want to ask ( since you found so many loose parts ) is if the guy who tried to do repairs is if he torqued any major parts like rod or head bolts . It looks like he may have used vise grips on crank to burr up that end. It would be a shame to have it come apart again because of a mistake someone else made.
Gota love old muscle saws, good vid James! The moral of the story, never lend out tools 😂
Thanks Tom. They are well built saws and a pleasure to work on. Although it running a lot better, still concerned about the lack of power. The Facebook one made the cut in about 8 seconds. Stanley’s in about 14 seconds. Might pull the exhaust and see if there is damage to the new top end given it was run with an air leak. Maybe a part 2?
@@jcondon1 yeah, Stanley’s was too lean at 12k rpm, I’d have gone richer to match the aftermarket piston and cylinders requirements. I agree with you too, after market parts will almost always preform sub par to oem. They never get the port timing, shape and flow like oem do and thus you get reduced performance like you’ve shown. It’s a great comparison you did at the end. Well done 👍 edit: re pulling the muffler, good call, it’s the first thing I do on a 2 stroke :) although compression was fine at just under 150, skirt damage can sometimes reduce the effectiveness of post sealing and when warm, the piston can expand and the transfer on the cylinder from piston can contact one and other and start to cause drag and then strange running symptom when it’s heat soaked, won’t idle, hard to restart :) also, if a saw loses pressure quickly but slowly or not at all on vacuum, it’s most often intake manifold if they’re rubber, commonly, but not always, in the pleats 👍👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs it was lean. Did that on purpose to see if I could close the performance gap. Unfortunately that is all it had. Pulled the exhaust to take a look. Piston and rings looked ok. No scoring, but the skirt seemed to have more wear than I would have expected.
ruclips.net/video/W9SfRdr75fM/видео.html
@@jcondon1 difficult to see the piston skirt in that video, but I think just port timing and materials are a huge contributor here. It’s quite well known that aftermarket just don’t preform like oem.
Quite agree. My other half (bless him) lent tools to other people, only to find that they're buggered up when handed back. He's learnt his lesson the hardway. Most stores sell all sorts of tools, in all price ranges. So why bugger up someone elses equipment when they can buy their own?
Top marks on another good vid James.
Wayne & Nina
👍👍👍👍👍👍😊😊😊😊😊😊❤️❤️
I was recently reminded of why I don't lend out tools, even to someone that is experienced at what they do. When it's not yours (oftentimes) it is not treated the same.
In this case, the person just didn't know that you cannot run straight gas in the saw. But when they go to such great lengths to make it right, you know they are good people!
Well said
I was thinking the same.
Well, maybe. The destroyer used chinese parts instead of OEM. Jury is out on this point. You do have to wonder why/how someone "experienced" is filling the tank with straight gas.
A cousin of mine came to me the other day to give him a wood splitter...and I told him to go get it. When he got to it he noticed it was defective (something I was aware of because that's how it got back to me from the last person who asked for it) .. and he came to me to tell me... I replied that I knew this aspect, and he wonders why I sent him to get it in the first place. ..I told him that if I refused it from the beginning, he probably thought that I didn't want to give it to him ... and I also told him that since I received it defective, I stopped lending tools. He turned his back and left without even greeting 🫡
I had something similar happen when a neighbor borrowed one of my chainsaws. They forgot to fill it with bar and chain oil and burnt up the bar and chain. He made it right and bought a new bar and chain and chain
For a guy who works on generators you sure did a nice easy job on that saw
Wish we had youtube and content like this when i was a kid and trying to get the family's push mower going. Luckly i had a kind elder gentleman that went above and beyound to teach me and keep that mower going. That was 48 years ago, but still remember him and his kind ways.
HI James, good video. The friend did try to make things right, that counts for a lot. I lent one of my saws to my neighbor and it never ran again, he fried the mag. he never made good on it.
I don't lend anything to anyone anymore.
Rich
I made a rule years ago, I never loan my record albums or my tools, my wife yeah but not my tools.😂
I do appreciate he tried to make it right, but he should have just paid stihl to rebuild the engine and it would’ve been fine.
This man does an amazing work explaining and fixing small engine equipment , he works very clean that he can go to church right after doing a repair and you'd never guess what he does 👌
You sir deserve many many more subs'ers !
Thanks
I'm a technician for factory owned branch of the BIG EVIL tool company and I have taken away more knowledge and skills from watching your videos than 15 years of working for this company. THANK YOU!
Just found you, and appreciate your style. As a former aircraft, truck, motorcycle mechanic I am venturing into saws 😮. My recent experience with a recalcitrant Stihl made me aware of degeneration of the hoses. In future endeavors I will be more aware of damage to both gas and vacuum lines ( my long sought after issue). The pressure/ vacuum test really shortens this process. Side comment- a mud flap or door mat on the steel bench is easier for you and the saw😂. Enjoyed!
I was thinking a couple nice slabs as a work surface.
I was cringing at the chain running near that diamond plate.
_"I hope this video helped someone."_ I'm confident it did with many re: mechanical repairs-but in my case it did/does for another reason. Because my "chainsaw use" and subsequent "repair days" are behind, your videos simply make for a more enjoyable day. Thanks James-God bless.
James, you deserve a high paying show on discovery or something. Excellent narration, logical, no music (so nice!). You are a great teacher, not to mention your mech/tech skills! Thanks you very much!!
Beautiful background.... (((silence)))
I've been waiting for 2 years to eventually find that "AHA!" moment for my weedwhacker. I believe this is the issue with it. Thanks again! Even though I have more time and money into parts than I would into a new weedwhacker... I just can't let go. I gave up on a lawnmower a few years ago and I regretted it 1 week after I did so when I watched a video, likely one of yours, where someone had hit a rock and twisted the plastic cam gear.
James, your expertise is above many of us DYI'ers.
Checking vacuum and pressure is something that I would have not known.
Keep posting.
Tks.
Surgery day for me, wish me luck 😊can’t wait to get back to work
Wish you a speedy recovery.
Good luck my friend!
Hope it's not too serious. Best of luck!
Best of luck to you.
Good luck.
Thanks so much for posting from the UK - the step by step diagnostics and partial breakdown gave me confidence to refurbish passed Father in Law's saw, instead of buying a new one - Happy Mother in Law, Happy Wife, Happy Life - I Owe You Dude
That was a great video, James. Lovely of you to help Stanley out, I know he's been a good contributor to your channel. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Good camera setups, no extra talking, and a competent, experienced host. Some days I learn with you, and I always learn from you. Thanks for the videos.
I just smile watching your video here. Funny that back in 2004 I was about 14 and had a 028 that used to be my grandpa’s and I got it when he passed away. It didn’t run right and I took it to my local stihl dealer and they told me it was terminally damaged. Told me to put it up on a mantle as a memoir of grandpa. Basically charged me 25$ for a estimate and gave it back to me in pieces and a ziploc of screws for the top cover and carb. When I got home I was putting it back together and ended up noticing the intake boot off at cylinder. Not knowing much at the time I put the clamp back on and it ran great. Set me down a career path for sure😊 great video!
I've got my granddad's 028WB. I used it for years to cut firewood. It's been sitting a long time, but I know it'll come right back to life with this kind of attention.
You have the patience of a saint, watching you fix that I was wondering how many 4 letter words or how many times the tools would have went across the shop... Good on you James
Any Stihl Saw 026 AV or like this one 028 is a great buy!!!
Those days they was Way better than todays Stihl chainsaws💯
Running perfect 20-30 years no problem! After Many years the membrane in the carb gets petrified… Mostly only issue🤷🏼♂️
Great video. I recently watched another video where the chain oil flow was restricted even with the max oiling pump setting. The problem was a factory defect on an OEM vacuum relief check valve on the oil tank. The chain and bar ran hot even with a small oil flow on the test until it was replaced.
I had a small problem with oiling on my old Stihl 041AV some years back. After cleaning it good still not enough oil. I put a little kerosene in the bar oil to dilute it a little and that worked to get the oiler working good again. In case some folks don't know if their chainsaw chain is being oiled properly, simply start the saw, run it at full speed and hold the tip of bar above some newspaper or cardboard and you should see spattering of oil on the paper....then you know chain is lubed properly.
028 Super is my favorite firewood saw for the PNW, have 2. Great video!
I rebuilt a saw top end a couple years ago. I believe it has this exact same issue. Meaning the crankcase leak. I had it running, but it was doing the cut out thing too. I put it on the shelf. Now I want to get back at it and try what I saw in this video. I love learning things :D
Excellent troubleshooting and instructional video! I've been a Stihl tech for a few years and not run into this problem before so this is good training for me! Well done Jim!
7:00 As an aside, if the engine has unknown history when doing that first start, I’d recommend running it for 5-10 minutes first, to let the diaphragms flex a bit in case they were stiff from sitting. If you adjust the carb before that, you’ll end up having to go back and correct again after the diaphragms become flexible. This may lead to confusion on what’s happening.
I want the saw to 4 stroke when it's free but run clean when it's in the cut. Yea, you have to give the saw a few hard cut before you touch the mixture screws
Makes perfect sense. Thank you
I got goosebumps watching you assembling those chainsaws with the spark plug still connected. My father always said "Pull the spark plug connection on anything before assembly or disassembly!"
My father has the same model, 028 Super AV. He uses it every year for firewood cutting. Since the eighties, he used it with Stihl mineral oil(red HP) with around 1:25. No problem with his saw.
Super lovely as always, James, thank-you. Most enjoyable!
And my/our thanks to Stanley and his friend also.
I'm picking up a lot of 2 stroke diagnostic info from you with this video. Nice work & I like your mini torch for soldering things like this!
Chainsaws are high performance and like anything high performance
can be a little tricky to tune, nicely done James
Hello James: As usual a top notch instructional video. You are getting a very good inventory of test equipment. Plus in this video new Snap Ring Pliers. This video demonstrates exacrly why many small engine shops do not work on 2 cycle engines unless it is warranty work. It is just too time intensive to make a ptofit on. Kudos to you for showing in detail to the DIY capable of repairing their unserviceable but repairable equipment. Here are 2 more saved from the land fill to work again.
I own a small engine shop that specializes in 2 stroke equipment, mainly Stihl. I haven't worked on an old 028 in a long time. Those things sure were built well. You did a great job on that repair!
Thanks
Reminds me of when i got my Stihl 025 last year. Put a new carburetor, fuel line and impulse line and 4 pulls later it fired up. Still runs great just waiting for my new skip tooth chain to come in. Had to use it Tuesday after a tornado came through southern Ohio early Tuesday morning
Same storm came through southern Indiana. I’ve been busy cutting up trees. As of today, I’ve been without grid power for 4 days. I’ve been running the generator for that time and gas ain’t cheap.
Odd a guy has the know-how to rebuild the top end but straight gasses a chainsaw, must be more to the story I'm sure! Anyways that was a good 2-stroke carb tuning vid and troubleshooting with the pressure tester. Now he has 2 good saws, well done.
Putting it together is one thing, knowing how to tune it is completely another skill set!
I was expecting every seal to have a leak. Not too bad for the guys first rebuild. I was told he had the cases split, but am thinking he may have just changed the jug and piston which is why he had trouble with the boot.
@@jcondon1 He did good for the first one for sure!
Great Episode! Great troubleshooting! One thing though: top speed. I believe that you adjusted the high speed as high as it would go. Several other 2-cycle specialists, Chicanic (who sees hundreds of 2-cycles in her shop every year) has emphasized repeatedly that setting it to as high as it goes runs the risk of burning up the motor. She suggests finding the high spot and backing out the needle to take off (I don't remember her recommended number, it may vary by type of equipment) a small amount, something on the order of a few hundred rpm. That slight extra rich mixture is intended to improve the lubrication and reduce wear and heat. FWIW. Could be that weekend users may never see the difference. She deals with a lot of pros who use their equipment heavily. Anyway, you, once again, have probably saved a few thousand pounds of stuff from being dumped in landfills with a single video.
Many years ago (started in 1973 straight out of high school and worked there for 15 years) I worked for the largest outdoor power tool distributor at that time in the USA. We were a distributor for McCulloch Chain saws, Merry Tiller, Snapper Mowers, Weed Eater and many more products. Although I never worked on chain saws I learned a little bit about the saws from the mechanics that repaired them. We all worked in the same shop and it was pretty loud sometimes :). We were also a distributor for Jacobson Turf equipment and many other lines and that's what I worked on. I was also told by the mechanics that worked on the saws to always adjust the high speed on a 2 cycle at full speed until it screamed as fast as it would go and then back the high speed adjustment off until it fluttered. I was always told that this would give the saw more power when under a load and keep it from leaning out too much and burning up. Back then McCulloch used a chrome cylinder in the newer saws which meant that if you ran raw gas in them you had to replace the cylinder and the piston because they could not be rebored. The older large saws had a cast iron cylinder that could be bored and repaired. I still have a Pro Mac 700 that I bought in 1988 when I left the distributor and although I can't get parts for it any more it still runs very well after all these years.
I have more confidence after watching your videos, you'r so logical & I understand everything your doing. thank you James!
Nice job finding the air leak. That vacuum tool, a bit of rubber and your skill put it right.... I am fascinated with the RPM meter tool.
Great to see you working on chainsaws for a change of pace
Nice one Jim, and it only took one cup of tea to get through it! This video reminds me, I have 5 saws to work on!
Sometimes ya just run across a channel that quickly becomes your "go-to" for information above all others....and you sir, you are now my chainsaw guru lol. Seriously...great videos man. No fluff, crap, misinformation, stupid sales junk. Thank you for the awesome videos. You are to chainsaws as Project Farm to product testing lol. Highest compliment I can give fr. Take care
Stihl have my 031AV purchased new in 1972. The salesman said: take reasonable care of it and you'll never wear it out. Nice job with the troubleshooting and repair.
Thanks. The earlier models like the one you have should last forever if cared for.
Well done James. That seal leak was epic! I agree...I have no idea how that saw was running at all much less only exhibiting an annoying tendency to stall after idling.
I've had a Stihl 024 AV since 1985. Out of all the tools I own, that one alone is the most dependable and reliable. Even after 39 years, it's my go-to saw and starts and performs every time I need it. With regard to the air filter at 1:05:10 - while there are better filter designs now, that clone is a faithful copy of what Stihl used. My 024 came with that plain screen filter from the factory and I ran it for many years.
Ditto my 025 from 1994...and I am still using it ...but I clean that filter and the saw after every day of use.
i had 028av supers that would never idle slow enough to allow the chain to stop moving no matter the adjustments. Keep in mind they 028 av's were built before ethanol fuel. love your vids!
James found so many loose nuts on that rebuilt saw. I'd have concerns the rod cap bolts and head bolts weren't torqued. Nice repair.
Thankfully most 2 stroke engines do not have a rod cap.
@@jcondon1 I learned something today. I haven't worked on chainsaws. Thanks
Absolutely great video filled with great tips on troubleshooting. I look forward to every Thursday! Keep them coming.
Hello James, I've been binge watching your videos for a while and subscribed, love your channel👍 I cut a maple down last Saturday with my Stihl MS250, bought it new in 2018, best chainsaw I ever owned. You can't beat a Stihl for high RPM and fast cutting. Take care my friend, just a Canadian Guy from Eastern Ontario.
I wanted to thank you for your repair videos. I recently got my 50cc Poulan chainsaw running that has been sitting for 8 years. I ordered a clone carb kit with fuel lines. Glad I did because during disassembly I found the fuel lines had cracks half way across the line near where they attached to the carb. So I am sure my old carb is probably ok but it fired right up with the new lines and clone carb. God Bless.
Very excited for this video. I have 2 Stihl saws that I will run into the ground. (Hopefully not straight gassing them)
Thanks for this great detailed work, at 64 yrs, I am trying to keep my mind sharp, and you have got my subscription !
Great video Jim, nice job on getting both saws up and running
Great job James on both saws.
Excellent troubleshooting video. You explain things very well. Thanks a bunch.
Good timing James! I was out with my 034 the other day, and it started idling funny and then it bogged. I brought it back to the garage, drained the fuel and bar oil. The impulse and fuel lines were replaced a few years ago with OE. I’ll be checking the filter, lines, boot, and crank seals. In that order.
The snap ring was a diabolical invention!
True, but sometimes a necessary evil. I have fewer problems with the ones that are squeezed together to remove and install. The ones that spread apart can be a little contrary.
I'm thinking the first saw has a after market carb. Aleeady
I regularly retuned my father-in-law's saws for him. One day he asked me to fix one. It was in little pieces! He had it in the tractor bucket and was coming back up out of the trees and running his brush hog as he came up the trail. The saw got flipped out of the bucket and the brush hog chewed it up! We all got a nice laugh out of that, then he went and out and bought new saw!
I found a Husqvarna 440 on Marketplace a few months ago for $10, the guy said he couldn’t get it running. Apparently if you put a chainsaw away that is caked in layers of wet sawdust, it won’t run the next time you need it! Took me a few hours to clean but it rips now!
Great watching you working around your problems, James! Very relaxing. Good camera. Good dialogue. Fine editing! I was a commercial tv broadcast technician, so I can verify you do an excellent job! Keep it coming! Watching from Hawai’i…Aloha 🫎
If you’re going to lend your saw out simply “give” your friend a jug of mixed fuel telling him to only use that fuel. Also if your friend doesn’t know that EVERY chainsaw takes mixed fuel I wouldn’t feel too comfortable about them rebuilding it!
BTW James I’ve been watching your channel for a year now. I’ve learned a lot and find the content very interesting and informative!
That's what I did' gave my friend mixed gas and bar oil' long story short he put bar oil in the gas tank and gas in the oil tank.
First chainsaw(s) in a while. Great diagnostics as ever.
Another quality production 👍 keep them coming. Thank you.
those are worth to fix , these are very good professional chain saws ,
Great job, just the fact that you put the OEM carb back on and got rid of the clone, made me have to subscribe & like. Keep up the GOOD work!
Impressive, I always learn from your sharing of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Well done on chainsaw video.
I have been using the ultrasonic cleaner to clear the low speed and high speed circuits with great success. Those passages are smaller than the filter on the fuel line in the tank.
The saws are my main machine, so that was a great ep. Thanks James
This helps me, I'm a just a tinkerer and have always tried to fix my own and do pretty well. I have a couple chainsaws that I've revive, but this one stihl , think its a 192, I have always tuned it ok till it accelerates like Stanleys. I was sure it has a leak but didn't think about the boot or other avenues, always thought it was the carb or seals on the carb. Gonna check it out this week, Thanks.
An update on the MS 192tc, Well I followed the air paths and found a gasket on the backside of the carb that wasn't suppose to be there, some idiot must have left it there as a place holder and forgot to remove it before installing carb. Unfortunately I'm the only one who worked on it. Anyway that fixed the problem and it runs like a champ now. Thanks again.
Cannot thank you enough for all the videos, James! Gave me the knowledge to replace the carb (and many other maintenance parts) on the very first chainsaw I ever bought. Had the exact same issue when throttling up and ordered a $14 clone carb kit. Extra useful was the detail on tuning it. A few adjustments like you showed and runs better than ever!!! Thanks!
Perfectly executed! The Kipor is soon on it's way to you. 😁
Looking forward to it. Hopefully an easy fix.
@@jcondon1 Pretty sure it's gonna be an easy fix. It's rarely been used since new ( along time ago) and was always been stored inside time ago. You'll see when you receive it.😁
Nice evaluation and repairs/adjustments on the Stihl saws. Thanks!1
My Stihl repair guys tell me that the older models are built and run better than the newer models. QUALITY of construction of new saw is LESS but the cost is more. WHY??
Good troubleshooting! I might recomend putting a small sheet of plywood or a wide board on your metal table when working on saws....
You never loan out anything you aren't willing to risk losing.You never loan out anything which requires brains to use correctly. You never loan out anything which has easy-to-reach adjustments someone can screw with. If someone regularly needs something they will have it. If someone needs something because they didn't have the foresight to see the need ahead of time beware their intelligence level. Borrowers usually lack the experience needed to use something correctly so whatever you loan them must be as stupid-proof as possible. Never a borrower or a lender be.
I had an old Stihl 058AV and it was a real workhorse. So powerful so as to be almost dangerous. Having moved and no longer needing it, I gave it to a friend who used it in partial trade for some tree-work she needed done. The arborist was happy to get it and gave her a good discount for it. They sure don't make them like that anymore.
Do you mean a 056 AV or 038 AV Stihl never made a 058 AV. I have a 056 Magnum II that's an animal slow but it cuts through anything . Can't bog it down . I lent it to a friend and gave him a brand new jug of bar oil . When he gave it back the bar was and chain were shot and the jug was unopened. I asked didn't you use the bar oil ? He said it was to messy . Now like you say I don't lend out anything to anyone. Every time I did I got screwed.🍻
@@Spitter-ud8jd Memory fails me as that was around 30 years ago but it was a big one, and there was no bogging it down. The bar was at least 24", probably longer. Never used anything like it before or since, but I don't often use a chainsaw and don't know a lot about them.
Unbelievable work & presentation bud....Darn good job!
Thanks
wow, awesome video, having never had a vacuum leak in any chainsaw I've owned, I just learned something new to add to my arsenal of knowledge
Impressed, how you explain and show what you are doing as you work.
Couple hints for you. starting a cold saw set your choke and throttle and then pull it slow a couple times to prime the fuel system. When adjusting carb screws start at 1 1/4 or what the manufacturer says if known then when running go clockwise till it goes slower then back it out till it hits its highest speed then go just a little more. A little on the rich side is better. Stanley's saw is on a fresh rebuild and will probably take a little while to break in. After a tank of gas has been run through it retune the carb. NOW stanley has his saw and one to loan out.
AT 56:00 I said out loud "oh, he needs to have a piece of heat shrink tubing already on that wire" and you did.
Nice work indeed.
Another great video going to pressure test my brother's saw.
Thanks
A couple of years ago I saw a JBC soldering station and fell in love, but it was expensive. Almost 1000$. Then I saw a chinese wannabe JBC using the same cartridge tips as the JBC.
A 192Watt soldering station. So pretty hefty if you have the right tips. Aixun T3A with the T245 handle for the JBC C245 cartridge series.
With that tile plow you how and the farmers around there you'll be busy for first part of spring. Thanks for the video
And remember the one saw rings haven’t set in yet it needs to be put to work . Great job with both saws .
I hope that is it. I pulled the exhaust tonight to make sure the piston and cylinder were good. Was concerned that the intake boot being the way it was may have caused damage, but things look good.
Great video James. LOTS of useful tip and tricks to diagnose issues and how to fix them.
Great work again. I would have pressure/vacuum tested the fuel system too. Perhaps the old screw radiator hose clamp of the intake boot could be upgraded to the new spring type. These type will never leak. Ok the guy who took it previously apart did not tighten it but anyway screwclamps always loosen up with heatcycles. On the "slow" saw I missed the fourstroking" at full throthle when tuning, so possibly could have opened up de H more(lower speed but more pull)
The H setting I maxed out the speed. Not good for the saw, but was trying to see if I could get it to cut as fast as the Facebook saw.
@@jcondon1 ok, good to see the performance difference between aftermarket and OEM. Maybe it improves when the piston and rings are more seated in? Regarding the comment on pressure testing the fuel system. RUclips channel "Married with small engines" does it standard and I think that's really good. Sometimes tanks vents are not fully ok anymore and together with a clogged fuel filter or a tiny crack in the fuel line causes misdiagnoses on for example the carburetor. Still great work and keep it up. Especially the consistency of diagnosing is of a very high level🤩.
Love watching whatever you do It's like a murder mystery and you always find out who/what is the guilty party!!
James, the way that I check for air leaks on saws is with break cleaner. Just spray it in the areas which may be leaking. Put the engine at an idle and spray around the possible leaking areas. When it hits the leak the saw will die in a split second.
Excellent video 👍 Could be the bottom end bearings of Stanley's saw were slightly damaged during the time it was running on straight gas, that would be enough to account for the slower RPMs and lower power output. At least Stanley has the FB saw that seems to run great.
@James: I commend you on your patience with these chainsaws and 2 cycle engines in general. I’m very comfortable around 4 cycle but 2 cycle is always a challenge. Everything is so compact, assembly order is crucial. When I watch vids on equipment like this, I try to imagine the factory assembly process. Great video. Thanks.
Same here. I do not do a lot of 2 stroke. Always a challenge mostly due to the size.
When we tuned the carbs on old 2 stroke outboards, we always started adjusting the HI speed needle first, then after that issue was addressed, then we'd adjust the LOW speed idle needle. Just my experience (I owned an outboard repair business for many years).
Great video on how to check for crankcase leaks!
I have to say "KUDOS" to Stanleys friend who borrowed the chainsaw then went above and beyond to make what wrong he created, right.
Very honorable dude and he has my total respect.
This was a surprisingly satisfying video to watch. Why ? Cause I dont own a stihl chainsaw :-) ( mine are husqvarna) but this video was so well explained and the meticulous troubleshooting was awesome to watch. Kudos to the author James - this was well done!
Great video ,know a lot more about chainsaws after the video. Last test could have been the Ebay saw at the lower speed.
Hi James, another great video! Just a thought but maybe the Stanley's saw needs a couple of tanks of fuel ran through so the new piston, rings and sylinder will wear a bit. After that you will get the best HP out..
That is a possibility
I learned a lot from, and feel really impressed with this video. Thank you for posting it. I think the younger generations in my family lines can make excellent use of and learn many things from your videos. As many others say in the comments....your diagnostic skills are superb.
Thanks
Nothing to say other than unbelievably well done as always and if comments help your algorithm I'm here!!!
Great video well shown step by step to test for possible problems and fixes . One thing you may want to ask ( since you found so many loose parts ) is if the guy who tried to do repairs is if he torqued any major parts like rod or head bolts . It looks like he may have used vise grips on crank to burr up that end. It would be a shame to have it come apart again because of a mistake someone else made.
I double checked the flywheel and jug bolts (off camera). All were good. Might have a look inside.
Very nice and informative video! Job well done 👍
And , as a byproduct, you provided "round to-Its" for all your friends who have been waiting for motivation ...😊
I love those things, but never get a chance to use them. Have done in the past and enjoyed myself. Thanks :)
Excellent repair James. Thank you.
This video did, in fact, help someone.
Thanks for making it!