V8 S10 Crankshaft Plastigage and Install (Ep.7 Part 2 of 7)

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  • Опубликовано: 29 окт 2024

Комментарии • 83

  • @richardgalli7262
    @richardgalli7262 5 лет назад +16

    plastigage goes on top of the crank

    • @ryanmacewen511
      @ryanmacewen511 4 года назад +4

      Yeah I noticed the same thing. They way he did it, the weight of the crank, and even placing it in block could squish it beyond actual.

  • @cushionface09
    @cushionface09 2 года назад +4

    I always put my crank in & then put the plastic gauge between the bearing & the main caps. Instead of the crank on top of the plastic gauge. That way ya don;t have to lift the crank out to check bearing clearance. Love the step by step Great work.

    • @mrblanche
      @mrblanche Год назад

      Exactly my process, too. Much easier, and less dealing with oil holes and grooves.

  • @prancstaman
    @prancstaman 6 лет назад +21

    I'll put it to you this way. Loosey goosey never got stuck, LOL. Will run fine with those clearances. If it makes you a little uncomfortable when the engine is warm and you have 5 psi at idle sitting at that traffic light, just switch to 20w 50 oil. Will give you an extra 10 to 15 psi at idle. I ran my Jeep engine like that for over 15 years. Recheck final torque a couple days later, some of those bolts will come loose.

  • @TIBORANGE
    @TIBORANGE 7 лет назад +13

    The engine will be better than new.... I love this new format of videos!

  • @DeathPonyy
    @DeathPonyy 7 лет назад +30

    LOVE the jump cuts on the torque wrench :P "How to basic" almost but with less EGG

    • @Just_A_Zach
      @Just_A_Zach 6 лет назад

      that is the best comparison but i need to know what caused you to say it.

  • @jeffmayo6002
    @jeffmayo6002 5 лет назад +2

    Great video very helpful. Going to recommend these to my shop instructor since he likes to use youtube as lesson aids

  • @deweys
    @deweys 7 лет назад +7

    This is great stuff! Thanks for sharing. Really liked the editing on the torque procedure too.

  • @jasonescott
    @jasonescott 7 лет назад +1

    Really enjoy your series of videos (both the Blazer and the Datsun). Thanks for taking the time to make and post them. Fwiw, when checking bearing clearances, the usual method is to set the bearing shells in the block, set the crank in those shells (in the block), then set the other shells in the main caps and torque the caps in place, then, one-by-one, remove a cap, add some plasti-gauge, and re-install and torque the cap ... then remove it again to check the clearance. The reason for this is that the block (and even the crank) can deform slightly when everything is torqued down as it will be when the engine is eventually running, and you want everything to be as close to running conditions as possible. By only removing one cap at a time, the other caps remain torqued, better simulating the stress that the engine will experience when it's finally assembled. In addition, you don't have to remove the crank to take your readings -- the plasti-gauge will either be on the surface of the crank's journal facing you, or it'll be in the cap you just removed ... both of which are much easier to measure than having to hunt for the plasti-gauge once the crank is removed. But that's nit-picking. Your way will work, and for a regular, low-buck, low-performance rebuild, it'll be fine. Good luck on the rest of the engine build! Can't wait to see how it all finishes up.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад

      I'm not quite clear why you would want to measure the caps separately, I would think you would torque them all down at once and check them all at once because that is the condition the engine will be run in. As far as getting the readings on the cap side bearings, that is fine too. But sometimes the caps can be tough to remove vertically, and if you rock it back and forth there is the chance to smear or distort the plastigage, but realistically I'm sure that works just fine too.

    • @jasonescott
      @jasonescott 7 лет назад +1

      Hi, that was actually my point: by installing and torquing all the caps, then removing one and adding plastigauge and re-torquing it and removing it, you're leaving all the rest torqued (like they'd be when the engine is running) so the block and crank are subjected to nearly the same stresses as they'll experience when running. That was how all the engine builders and manuals I'd ever seen did it, and it always worked well for them, so that's how I've always done it, unless I'm actually mic'ing everything, instead. But I certainly see the logic in doing it your way. Maybe the next engine I do I'll take the time to try it both ways to see if there's any difference ... though I doubt there will really be any. Besides, as you pointed out in the video: plastigauge isn't exactly super-accurate. Anyway, thank you again for the terrific series of videos. And for taking the time to reply to comments like mine. It's definitely appreciated. Good luck with the rebuilt engine!

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +1

      Hmm. I have heard of measuring that way before, removing one cap at a time, but to me it makes less sense. Doesn't mean anything really, I could certainly be wrong. I would be curious if you measured both ways if you would get different results, and which would be more "correct".
      Thanks for watching and the kind wishes!

  • @blacksheep9734
    @blacksheep9734 6 лет назад +17

    Its a small block chevy they will run completely fine on 5psi of oil lol

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  6 лет назад +6

      I've heard even less than that haha! They are tough cookies, indeed. But it's nice to be thorough anyway!

    • @blacksheep9734
      @blacksheep9734 6 лет назад

      FuzzyDicePimp oh yes without a doubt. Plus if your going through the trouble of rebuilding a motor you want it to have good compression and oil pressure

  • @DoRC
    @DoRC 7 лет назад +11

    This main clearances are just fine for what you're doing.

    • @DoRC
      @DoRC 7 лет назад +2

      Though you might want to run thicker oil than specified.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +3

      Yep, my goto is 10w-40, but if pressure gets a bit low when hot I am willing to go to 15w-50 or so.

    • @scottwynn1625
      @scottwynn1625 7 лет назад +3

      Do R/C! I think a little 15W-40 Rotella would probably make those clearances a non issue ....not that they will be anyway

    • @AK49Watson
      @AK49Watson 6 лет назад

      My crank was machined properly and came back with matched bearings. Measured with plastigauge anyways and the journals were all somewhere between .002 and .003, I run about 20psi piping hot 550RPM idle. About 55psi cruising. Perfectly fine for a street engine. Race engines usually have LOOSER bearing clearance to account for the crank expanding under high RPM heat.

  • @geopou4618
    @geopou4618 7 лет назад +4

    Really good and educational

  • @Koshunae
    @Koshunae 7 лет назад +7

    Funny how the lucas assembly lube looks almost exactly the same as their oil stabilizer.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +3

      It's probably very similar or identical, they serve similar purposes so it's not too surprising that they would appear mostly the same.

  • @jasonmccarthy820
    @jasonmccarthy820 5 лет назад

    I did my 94 LT1, and from the factory it had a .001" undersized main on the rear. I had to order a set of .001" undersized main bearings just to get the one for the back. I found out they also sell .002" undersized bearing sets for older worn cranks, or for cranks that need that extra polishing that ends up wiping out a .001 or so when doing it.

  • @dave1135
    @dave1135 7 лет назад +2

    The way ive always plasticguage checked the crank was to install the crank in the block, put the plasticguage strips on the journals and install the main caps and torque. Then remove the caps, check my clearance, wipe the crank and cap clean, oil the crank and reinstall and torque caps

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад

      That works too, and is a tiny bit less work I suppose. Only concern is sometimes the caps can be tough to remove vertically, and if you rock it back and forth there is the chance to smear or distort the plastigage, but realistically I'm sure that works just fine too.

  • @Topshelf748
    @Topshelf748 6 лет назад

    Torque edit was pretty cool 😎

  • @tomthomas4444
    @tomthomas4444 6 лет назад +3

    Sir if you would lay your crankshaft in the block and put the plastigauge on the journal then torque your bearings. Remove the main cap and check your clearance that way you don't have to remove the crankshaft to get to the plastigauge. Not criticising just thought it might help you. Enjoyed your video!!!!!

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  6 лет назад +1

      It is a good point! The main concern is that sometimes caps that are hard to get off might end up smearing the plastigauge when using this method, but it probably is totally fine and certainly easier!

  • @arielhamm309
    @arielhamm309 7 лет назад +1

    Increible trabajo exelente sigue asi con los videos.

  • @ScrapinNet
    @ScrapinNet 7 лет назад

    Really great videos. I cant wait for the next!

  • @buckortwo99
    @buckortwo99 5 лет назад +2

    "Its not good but it's not Insain" 🤣🤣

  • @morgoon52
    @morgoon52 7 лет назад

    Awesome as always!

  • @PiggyDetector
    @PiggyDetector 4 года назад +3

    Plasti gauge goes on top of the crank shaft...

    • @kermets
      @kermets 3 года назад +1

      yes saves you taking the crank out to check stuff......even Mahle Clevite video shows the correct way/easy way

  • @TheSteelArmadillo
    @TheSteelArmadillo 7 лет назад

    If you're worried about clearances affecting oil pressure (I wouldn't be), think about a high-volume oil pump, if you aren't already.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +3

      A high volume pump would be overkill, plus they need an extended oil pan, and I wouldn't even know where to start trying to fit that in the engine bay. Pressures might be a little less than ideal, but a Chevy 350 barely even needs any oil pressure to keep ticking, so I'm not worried about damage occurring from it.

  • @nickopedia5669
    @nickopedia5669 6 лет назад

    I run 15w-40 oil on mine at 370,000 miles cause it's a little low on oil pressure with the original 5w-30.
    (started running 15w-40 at about 175-200k-ish miles)
    Some people even go as high as 20w-50 but you'd have to have some very loose tolerances, or very worn out, to be needing that.

  • @michaelovitch
    @michaelovitch 7 лет назад +2

    I think the cranck is springing back because it's not balanced unless the rods are in.
    As i know the v8 crancks are balanced with weight on them,not bare.
    So,it's not balanced right there.
    www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/03/weighing-balancing-work/

    • @jeremysmith8990
      @jeremysmith8990 6 лет назад

      michaelovitch it's because of the viscosity of the assembly lube...basic physics

    • @alycestapleton
      @alycestapleton 6 лет назад

      michaelovitch crank not cranck ,also say the guy using internet pages for info stfu another wannabe car enthusiast

  • @recklesssquirel5962
    @recklesssquirel5962 4 года назад

    You- does things in areas i think is over kill
    Me- wow this guy is more careful than i am
    Also you- touches the crank bearing with your bare hands
    Me- STAHP

  • @Dmhlcmb
    @Dmhlcmb 6 лет назад

    I love Lucas products

  • @robertpc100
    @robertpc100 5 лет назад

    you put plastiguage material on journal you then put cap on iy then torque.the plastiguage ius to show the machinist if anything is out of tolerance so he has to fix like maybe wrong bearing or something like that.you then just have to pull cap and guage shld. be stuck to crank.good luck

  • @beboboymann3823
    @beboboymann3823 4 года назад

    Why did you not plasti-gauge underneath the bearing cap. Dropping the crank in on the strips can give you a flatter strip thus false reading.

  • @jordanwiley4582
    @jordanwiley4582 6 лет назад

    I prefer a beam type torque wrench so I can see where and what the torque I'm applying is doing, but really as long as you have a good and accurate TW that's all that really matters.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  6 лет назад

      I totally understand, and I do want to add one to my arsenal. The click-type is far from perfect for many situations, but they have gotten me through everything so far!

  • @joshuahether3125
    @joshuahether3125 5 лет назад +2

    Never put oil on bolts you torque because the oil will sit on the bottom of bolt hole and give you false torque specs and it will cause the bolt to loosen over time

    • @MegaEvoluzione
      @MegaEvoluzione 5 лет назад

      a smear of thin oil on the beginning of the threads and on the shoulder

    • @topdogmechanic8261
      @topdogmechanic8261 5 лет назад

      I agree I never lube bearing bolts I thread lock them so they don't vibrate loose. I prefer red thread lock though some may argue My reasoning about this method, But my method never failed me.

  • @Tarassio280
    @Tarassio280 5 лет назад

    Thinking about that video you showed me. Excuse for my english

  • @robertpc100
    @robertpc100 5 лет назад

    hey its a chevy itll be fine. good job.just figured all that you spent you cld. have turned crank and bigger bearings which wld. be same price and you would be good.just experimenting>?

    • @charlesmartin7347
      @charlesmartin7347 4 года назад

      That's if he could have found a reputable company to do the work. Here in Fort Worth Texas forget about it the horror stories will you sit up in bed and weep like a three year old child.

  • @rentakatoads3673
    @rentakatoads3673 5 лет назад

    7.03 almost sound like Michael kelso right there.

  • @topdogmechanic8261
    @topdogmechanic8261 5 лет назад

    I never lube bearing bolts I thread lock them so they don't vibrate loose. I prefer red thread lock though some may argue My reasoning about this method, But my method never failed me.

  • @chuckaim1077
    @chuckaim1077 5 лет назад

    Are you taking wet torquing into account wen you work with oiled /wet bolts? Setting to 70ftlbs then going to click on a wet bolt your adding 30% to the 70ftlbs . Just curious

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  5 лет назад

      Torque specs for certain bolts (like main caps and head bolts) are almost always given as "oiled", and the use of lubrication is already taken into account. For other hardware I will play around with the values/feel a little if bolts have thread sealer/oil/antiseize on them, but generally torque specs have a bit of a buffer built into them and you won't run into issues. For critical components or soft hardware (Japanese)/aluminum threads you do have to be more careful and aware of that though.

  • @jordanwaughtal7649
    @jordanwaughtal7649 7 лет назад

    Nice.

  • @johnnyk617
    @johnnyk617 6 лет назад

    Now wouldn’t you also be able to put the plastigauge ontop of the crank and under the main caps and achieve the same result with less work?

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  6 лет назад +1

      Yep, the only concern is sometimes the caps will stick, and you will need to rock them back and forth a bit to get them loose, and that can smear the plastigauge. Probably just me overthinking it though, haha! You can use plastigauge while an engine is installed in a vehicle, and that is precisely how you would do it, so I'm sure it's a valid method.

    • @johnnyk617
      @johnnyk617 6 лет назад

      Fuzzy Dice Projects btw bro I’m am beyond thrilled to have stumbled across your channel very informative and great editing. Keep it up man I hope to follow all your projects going forward

  • @stevewhite9411
    @stevewhite9411 3 года назад

    So I just watched you do the plastic gauge.... I guess I was right.
    You are a little bit loose....
    So probably worth grinding....

  • @joeymcroberts2686
    @joeymcroberts2686 7 лет назад +1

    Your rear main should be checked with the oil pump bolted on because that will change the rear main clearances

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +2

      Yeah, I mentioned that briefly in the video, but for my purposes here I wasn't taking precise measurements or needing perfectly accurate data, so it is fine taking a reading without it installed.

  • @Ikaruszaki
    @Ikaruszaki 5 лет назад

    .004. Not good, not terrible

  • @robertpc100
    @robertpc100 5 лет назад +1

    get bigger bearings and you be ok.

  • @AndrewBrowner
    @AndrewBrowner 7 лет назад +1

    rubbed my belly counterclockwise till it turned red still no new video..

    • @AndrewBrowner
      @AndrewBrowner 7 лет назад

      i hope i dont have to pat my head at the same time because i cant handle that

  • @jsfetters
    @jsfetters 5 лет назад

    You cannot measure running torque with a micrometer torque wrench. The way you tried to do torque at the end does not work, only a dial torque wrench will work.

  • @jonsmith3574
    @jonsmith3574 6 лет назад +1

    You couldn’t find a bigger scissors huh?

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  6 лет назад +1

      I'll get some ceremonial ribbon-cutting scissors for next time!

    • @roadkill5333
      @roadkill5333 6 лет назад

      Jon Smith scissors any bigger are called hedge trimmers!!

  • @MsMotron
    @MsMotron 7 лет назад

    when checking the clearence on the crank-schaft, you only measured one side of the bearings. so you will only get half the actual distance between crank and bearing. but i think, but am not sure, the clearence is meant to be on both sides. therefor you measured double of what you shoud have (i think). if i am correct, everything might me in spec or a little tight.

    • @FuzzyDiceProjects
      @FuzzyDiceProjects  7 лет назад +5

      I know what you are thinking, but you only use plastigage on one side to check clearance. It takes up the space on that side and forces the crankshaft (or whatever you're measuring) to the opposite side, taking up the slack, so it is measuring the total clearance and that is the spec that manufacturers and the aftermarket use, the total clearance.

  • @d.parker6424
    @d.parker6424 6 лет назад

    who else rubbed their belly counterclockwise?

  • @JB-le7jr
    @JB-le7jr 6 лет назад

    @Fuzzy Dice Projects... where in MD are you?

  • @arielhamm309
    @arielhamm309 7 лет назад

    Increible trabajo exelente sigue asi con los videos.