Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
words of wisdom, thank you for the explonation on the logic of the gauge on charge with first stage and second stage coz those inverter change the btu depending the thermal demand thank you tad
Ok, so I learned almost zero on how to recharge a minisplit from this video. Questions that need to be answered when charging a multizone, do you add to the master valve set or to each individual head? What if you need to service a minisplit during the fall when you can't achieve maximum cooling? Must you resort to full recovery of refrigerant from the system and then recharge?
Good question There's only one connection To add refrigerant 2 And that manifold connects to all of the indoor units When you add refrigerant you add it to the whole system Always factory charge And if you want to know the extra charge check out vrf coder
@@TaddyDigest Pioneer systems have service ports on each suction line for each zone so that you can pressure test each line set. So there is a way to add refrigerant to each line set if you wanted to. I'm assuming it is the same for all makes of mini splits.
@@TaddyDigest I have lost full charge two times on my Multi split and you are telling me that I can not just add some refrigerant . I hate you. I go and cry again
You can add just do it slow and try to get 20 ° diferens form the retorn and supply take your time over charge the unit will get it frozen takes 1 hour to slowly charge and test @@andreycham4797
I'm a handyman with over 30 yrs of experience, and I can do a lot. Carpentry, plumbing, electrical, flooring, tiles, and so on. But not too often ac installation and servicing. For now, I installed two splits for my client, and I need to charge it. Last time, I did it a few years ago and forgot details. If you have a video how to charge ac after vacuum, can you send a link?
So if I want to charge it being an inverter I would have to have a recovery tank.. pull vacuum on the tank, recover the refrigerant, find leak and fix it.. pressure check, pull vacuum, weigh the refrigerant in the recovery tank an add it back to the system and then calculate what was missing based on what you already added based on the factory charge and Line set length? I'm just trying to make sure I'm used to working on normal HVAC units but inverters are new to me and I'm fairly new to the field so I just want to make sure I'm doing the proper work!
If there is a leak in my split ac system (pros haven't been able to find it) do I have to purge all the air out of the system before I charage 410a freon into the system? Or can I just add the freon until it is like 120-130 on the low side?
Technically, you have to recover refrigerant, purge and vacuum the system down below 500 microns, and charge by weight… Low side pressure is more like 115-120… If you add too much refrigerant you could get liquid refrigerant in the compressor and damage the system… Also, this guy is using terms like single and two stage, and DC brushless motors and Variable Frequency Drives do not have stages, they are variable dependent on ambient template res and related pressure… That is why you cannot charge using sub-cooling, full-stop! You can however keep the low side are 115-120; however, you could still flood (also called slugging or liquid flood back) the compressor, creating extremely high crankcase pressure, and the oil will be flashed and turn into foam, all reduce the life of the compressor or possibly immediate failure… While these system have an accumulator, you could still overload that and have a flood back…
I'm going to be adding a charge to my Pioneer single zone mini split. After watching your video, I have a better understanding of what to do. But I just want to run through the steps with you, and if you can tell me if it sounds correct. First thing is to attach the gauges, and connect the 1.8lb bottle of 410a. Go inside and turn on the unit to high, and turn the temperature all the way down. Then go outside and open the valve for the 410a, and make sure the gauge stays at 118 pressure. Slowly open and close the valve so that pressure doesn't get too high. Once level is stable, it means that all 410a is in the system, and can close the valve and discount the lines. And then check the inside handler, and make sure it's 20 degrees colder. Does that sound about right?
Hey Aaron that's awesome that you could derive that from the video very cool I think that you have a good chance of charging it correctly Good luck my friend
If you need my help I will give you my phone number through email you're through email so you can call me hit the join button and become a level 3 member
How do you measure an inverter for charge? It is always changing so I have read that a pull and weight the charge is the only way to know what the status is and whether to add or subtract R410A.
Alot of mini splits have a mode recommended for charging. Could be Speed cooling, emergency mode, test mode, etc... this will lock the system basically into 100% mode. After proper charging put it back to normal. See how the system responds. But always... and I mean always read the service manual. 👍
@@LiqwdE Thanks for the suggestion. I have read the voluminous manuals (PDF) and there appears to be no shortcuts recommended. Pull and weigh is the only option. This refers to Senville units and Air-com whose manuals I have fully read. It would seem to be a real labor saver for service calls if they had the ability to show charge level (not just a low condition as some do) with a computer read out built in. It would be a great selling point for sure.
@@douglasthompson2740 I hear ya. I recently worked on a Fujitsu. It's service manual has a refrigerant curve. Uses megapascals, outdoor temperature, and amp draw for checking the charge. They just can't make it easy for us.
I don’t understand why you aren’t just weighing in charge. If it is a new unit, add charge if needed based on instructions in the manual. If the unit is existing, recover the existing refrigerant and proceed to weigh in factory charge plus any additional charge that may be required based on lineset length. No need to check pressures, temperatures etc. no need to even turn on the unit during charging.
3 zone Samsung mini split. 5 years old. It has no refrigerant in it. No factory charge. Going to pull a vac and charge it. How will I make it run to fully charge it to factory charge if I cannot run the auto address till it is charged? It had the K3 reset preformed and would not complete K1 auto address due to low charge after being reset. Thanks
I used a defectove adapter for my mini split during the vacuum process which wasn't vacuuming the lines because the Schrader valve wasn't being depressed and then I stupidly released the refrigerant into the system. If i recover the reidgerant and vacuum them will that work, or should i remove the refrigerant and add more.
Great vid! Hey No one has a video on removing part of the charge on a minisplit that has shorter lines than the built in charge was designed for. Can you please do one? I feel like it's just release the full charge into the lines, start the system, and slowly recover via the suction side of your manifold into a recovery tank while monitoring the scale until you reach the weight that matches the pre-charged weight minus the final weight your line length requires. Is that correct?
Most of these Mini splits come charged for 25' line sets except for the multi zone systems which come charged for a 161' I don't think you would ever have to remove charge because of the line sets being too short I've installed several hundred with less than 15' and had no issues whatsoever
@@TaddyDigest So if the lines are only 10' and it comes pre-charged for 25' you don't lose efficiency by leaving it that way, and it's not harmful to the system in any way?
I think it's because you'd have to let some refrigerant out, and this is not legal to do so they sure as heck aren't going to show them doing it on youtube... The right way is to recover them which requires additional equipment...
@@mgladden2 The rule of thumb is the EEV will adjust for some extra refrigerant. During Mitsubishi training, they indicated providing you have 8-10' of line, you do not need to remove refrigerant. But nothing prevents you from removing some refrigerant to optimize the unit. Keep in mind at 15' that you will only be removing a slight amount of refrigerant of the overall volume.
My question is how long does it usually take you to pull vacuum on a 3 or 4 zone mini split to refill to a factory charge? It's taking forever and I have pressure tested and verified there are no leaks and changed the oil in my pump
@@TaddyDigest I do have the Schrader valve in low pressure hose hooked up and 2 hoses running to my pump. Im at my im beside my self and it never takes this long on a new installation. But every time I'm doing a fix it call for a mini split and I need to pull all the charge the vacuum takes for ever
To check the temperature split you need to measure the supply temperature and the return temperature and subtract the 2 and it should be around 20ﾟF difference
AC048KNZDCH/AA AC048JXADCH/AA here are my units curious how to increase the static from .3 to .5 Also whats the normal operation pressures on these systems. Do I need to setup the laptop with s net we have one at the shop
Hey I'm an apprentice, I just installed a Samsung ducted unit 4ton at my house, Im confused by factory charge? I was under the impression it was ready for 25ft of charge from factory and then anything over you had to add in charge. I have no Samsung training I just feel my unit has more to offer. Thanks
You are correct marco it is ready and has a factory charge in the outdoor unit for 25' line set I am only referring to systems that have to be recharged
I think I over charged my mini split my low side pressure is 152 psi and it was 88 degrees outside the condenser kept cutting off and coil air was coming out condenser
Great video brother. I had to charge a mini split last week it was 15 degrees out and it was 50 in the space so it wouldn't let me run ac .so i put it in heat, closed discharge and smashed refrigerant in through discharge port.i had to cycle it a few times because line sensors were shutting unit off.but after doing it 3 times i was able to charge system in heat mode.not ideal but it worked. Again Great video
All i was trying to do was drop the pressure going to the heads just enough to smash liquid refrigerant through ,and yes i had to warm the bottle up under hot water. Looking back i should have just disconnected reversing valve but i was cold and lazy didn't want to take the panel off.
I've installed multiple samsung units. Biggest junk ever. I've even installed these units in my 12 unit apartment building. I've already replaced 4 units with mitsubishi units in 4-5 years. Samsung makes the worst hvac equipment.
That’s crazy because I’m a state licensed contractor in Florida who’s installed at least 50 of them and haven’t had one issue out of any of them unlike all the GREE’s I work on I think the problem is you installed them next time get a professional!
Thanks for the great video. I have one question though: If you have a multisplit system and have unused ports, like in the video, what do you have to do with them? Are there special caps for them to keep them sealed? I thought, that the system always comes with normal nuts for making the pipe connections.
always verify that the caps from factory are torqued to the specific value for that size flare nut. I have had them leak in the past so I am always skeptical
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Very cool brother glad it's working great
words of wisdom, thank you for the explonation on the logic of the gauge on charge with first stage and second stage coz those inverter change the btu depending the thermal demand thank you tad
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video.
absolutely your welcome
Ok, so I learned almost zero on how to recharge a minisplit from this video. Questions that need to be answered when charging a multizone, do you add to the master valve set or to each individual head? What if you need to service a minisplit during the fall when you can't achieve maximum cooling? Must you resort to full recovery of refrigerant from the system and then recharge?
Good question
There's only one connection
To add refrigerant 2
And that manifold connects to all of the indoor units
When you add refrigerant you add it to the whole system
Always factory charge
And if you want to know the extra charge check out vrf coder
@@TaddyDigest Pioneer systems have service ports on each suction line for each zone so that you can pressure test each line set. So there is a way to add refrigerant to each line set if you wanted to. I'm assuming it is the same for all makes of mini splits.
@@TaddyDigest I have lost full charge two times on my Multi split and you are telling me that I can not just add some refrigerant . I hate you. I go and cry again
@@dffps129 I added refrigerant to my Pioneer at only one port and it worked
You can add just do it slow and try to get 20 ° diferens form the retorn and supply take your time over charge the unit will get it frozen takes 1 hour to slowly charge and test
@@andreycham4797
Hi. While charging do I have to turn ac on?
yes
@@TaddyDigest thanks
I'm a handyman with over 30 yrs of experience, and I can do a lot. Carpentry, plumbing, electrical, flooring, tiles, and so on. But not too often ac installation and servicing. For now, I installed two splits for my client, and I need to charge it. Last time, I did it a few years ago and forgot details. If you have a video how to charge ac after vacuum, can you send a link?
I thought Push K1 twice will go to heating Mode ? Right ?
So if I want to charge it being an inverter I would have to have a recovery tank.. pull vacuum on the tank, recover the refrigerant, find leak and fix it.. pressure check, pull vacuum, weigh the refrigerant in the recovery tank an add it back to the system and then calculate what was missing based on what you already added based on the factory charge and Line set length? I'm just trying to make sure I'm used to working on normal HVAC units but inverters are new to me and I'm fairly new to the field so I just want to make sure I'm doing the proper work!
You got it
@@TaddyDigest thank you, your vid has helped me more then my supervisor!
Awesome thank you so much for watching
If there is a leak in my split ac system (pros haven't been able to find it) do I have to purge all the air out of the system before I charage 410a freon into the system? Or can I just add the freon until it is like 120-130 on the low side?
Technically, you have to recover refrigerant, purge and vacuum the system down below 500 microns, and charge by weight… Low side pressure is more like 115-120… If you add too much refrigerant you could get liquid refrigerant in the compressor and damage the system… Also, this guy is using terms like single and two stage, and DC brushless motors and Variable Frequency Drives do not have stages, they are variable dependent on ambient template res and related pressure… That is why you cannot charge using sub-cooling, full-stop! You can however keep the low side are 115-120; however, you could still flood (also called slugging or liquid flood back) the compressor, creating extremely high crankcase pressure, and the oil will be flashed and turn into foam, all reduce the life of the compressor or possibly immediate failure… While these system have an accumulator, you could still overload that and have a flood back…
I'm going to be adding a charge to my Pioneer single zone mini split. After watching your video, I have a better understanding of what to do. But I just want to run through the steps with you, and if you can tell me if it sounds correct. First thing is to attach the gauges, and connect the 1.8lb bottle of 410a. Go inside and turn on the unit to high, and turn the temperature all the way down. Then go outside and open the valve for the 410a, and make sure the gauge stays at 118 pressure. Slowly open and close the valve so that pressure doesn't get too high. Once level is stable, it means that all 410a is in the system, and can close the valve and discount the lines. And then check the inside handler, and make sure it's 20 degrees colder. Does that sound about right?
Hey Aaron that's awesome that you could derive that from the video very cool I think that you have a good chance of charging it correctly
Good luck my friend
If you need my help I will give you my phone number through email you're through email so you can call me hit the join button and become a level 3 member
You probably already did what you needed, but don’t forget to purge the air out of your hoses as well before you add Freon.
absolutely great advice 👍
How do you measure an inverter for charge? It is always changing so I have read that a pull and weight the charge is the only way to know what the status is and whether to add or subtract R410A.
Look at the factory charge on the service facts And always factory charge using scales.
Check out my video on how to work on Mini splits
Alot of mini splits have a mode recommended for charging. Could be Speed cooling, emergency mode, test mode, etc... this will lock the system basically into 100% mode. After proper charging put it back to normal. See how the system responds.
But always... and I mean always read the service manual. 👍
Good advice my friend
@@LiqwdE Thanks for the suggestion. I have read the voluminous manuals (PDF) and there appears to be no shortcuts recommended. Pull and weigh is the only option. This refers to Senville units and Air-com whose manuals I have fully read. It would seem to be a real labor saver for service calls if they had the ability to show charge level (not just a low condition as some do) with a computer read out built in. It would be a great selling point for sure.
@@douglasthompson2740 I hear ya. I recently worked on a Fujitsu. It's service manual has a refrigerant curve. Uses megapascals, outdoor temperature, and amp draw for checking the charge. They just can't make it easy for us.
I don’t understand why you aren’t just weighing in charge. If it is a new unit, add charge if needed based on instructions in the manual. If the unit is existing, recover the existing refrigerant and proceed to weigh in factory charge plus any additional charge that may be required based on lineset length. No need to check pressures, temperatures etc. no need to even turn on the unit during charging.
Wondering this same thing.
3 zone Samsung mini split. 5 years old.
It has no refrigerant in it. No factory charge. Going to pull a vac and charge it.
How will I make it run to fully charge it to factory charge if I cannot run the auto address till it is charged?
It had the K3 reset preformed and would not complete K1 auto address due to low charge after being reset.
Thanks
send me an email we can push the k tact switch and make it enter cool mode so we can charge it
tadfuller1@gmail.com
I used a defectove adapter for my mini split during the vacuum process which wasn't vacuuming the lines because the Schrader valve wasn't being depressed and then I stupidly released the refrigerant into the system. If i recover the reidgerant and vacuum them will that work, or should i remove the refrigerant and add more.
remove the refrigerant
add nitrogen then
vacuum and add new refrigerant
Hey Taddy, What are the white cross members secured the the wall that the bracket is then connected to? Great Video!
I will do a video and show you
Great vid! Hey No one has a video on removing part of the charge on a minisplit that has shorter lines than the built in charge was designed for. Can you please do one? I feel like it's just release the full charge into the lines, start the system, and slowly recover via the suction side of your manifold into a recovery tank while monitoring the scale until you reach the weight that matches the pre-charged weight minus the final weight your line length requires. Is that correct?
Most of these Mini splits come charged for 25' line sets except for the multi zone systems which come charged for a 161'
I don't think you would ever have to remove charge because of the line sets being too short
I've installed several hundred with less than 15' and had no issues whatsoever
@@TaddyDigest So if the lines are only 10' and it comes pre-charged for 25' you don't lose efficiency by leaving it that way, and it's not harmful to the system in any way?
I think it's because you'd have to let some refrigerant out, and this is not legal to do so they sure as heck aren't going to show them doing it on youtube... The right way is to recover them which requires additional equipment...
@@mgladden2 The rule of thumb is the EEV will adjust for some extra refrigerant. During Mitsubishi training, they indicated providing you have 8-10' of line, you do not need to remove refrigerant. But nothing prevents you from removing some refrigerant to optimize the unit. Keep in mind at 15' that you will only be removing a slight amount of refrigerant of the overall volume.
Hey tad do you also work on boilers?
Yeah I occasionally work on some boiler systems but not very often and the boiler systems that I work on are mostly for car washes
Thank you for joining please send me an email if you have not already and I will send you some guides
tadfuller1@gmail.com
so, after vacuum is done disconnect pump, connect gas tank, turn on ac and then start to charge?
My question is how long does it usually take you to pull vacuum on a 3 or 4 zone mini split to refill to a factory charge? It's taking forever and I have pressure tested and verified there are no leaks and changed the oil in my pump
Have you checked your hose
Made sure that your hose is clear and is open on the ends
It shouldn't take more than an hour
@@TaddyDigest I do have the Schrader valve in low pressure hose hooked up and 2 hoses running to my pump. Im at my im beside my self and it never takes this long on a new installation. But every time I'm doing a fix it call for a mini split and I need to pull all the charge the vacuum takes for ever
@@derekbellamy8040 so I found that I get little to no Schrader depression on the unit, scratched my head every single install until I ground this
Remove the Schrader valve core…
manufacturers recommended method
Can u explain temperature split again please inside 65 outside ????
To check the temperature split you need to measure the supply temperature and the return temperature and subtract the 2 and it should be around 20ﾟF difference
So a temp probe on the high side and temp probe on low side ???
AC048KNZDCH/AA AC048JXADCH/AA here are my units curious how to increase the static from .3 to .5
Also whats the normal operation pressures on these systems.
Do I need to setup the laptop with s net we have one at the shop
easy way is definitely with s net
entering option code
I think I did a video of it on my playlist
Hey I'm an apprentice, I just installed a Samsung ducted unit 4ton at my house, Im confused by factory charge? I was under the impression it was ready for 25ft of charge from factory and then anything over you had to add in charge. I have no Samsung training I just feel my unit has more to offer. Thanks
You are correct marco it is ready and has a factory charge in the outdoor unit for 25' line set
I am only referring to systems that have to be recharged
Thanks I was shitting a brick wondering if I was running on only my additional charge. Haha
lol 😆🤣 it's all good 👍 You got this 👍
I think I over charged my mini split my low side pressure is 152 psi and it was 88 degrees outside the condenser kept cutting off and coil air was coming out condenser
Check out my recent video on how to charge mini splits, it'll show you how
@@TaddyDigest I also have a bent line and it's restricting flow smh
Nice tips but it looks like you stopped before showing actually “how to charge a mini split system.” You should change the video title.
what's a good title thank you for the advice
have a blessed day 🙏 ✨️ 💛
TD 18-22 DEGREE SPLIT
Great video brother. I had to charge a mini split last week it was 15 degrees out and it was 50 in the space so it wouldn't let me run ac .so i put it in heat, closed discharge and smashed refrigerant in through discharge port.i had to cycle it a few times because line sensors were shutting unit off.but after doing it 3 times i was able to charge system in heat mode.not ideal but it worked. Again Great video
Kids dont try this at home
All i was trying to do was drop the pressure going to the heads just enough to smash liquid refrigerant through ,and yes i had to warm the bottle up under hot water. Looking back i should have just disconnected reversing valve but i was cold and lazy didn't want to take the panel off.
Good stuff!
Find out the difference between a thermistor and a thermocouple.
I've installed multiple samsung units. Biggest junk ever. I've even installed these units in my 12 unit apartment building. I've already replaced 4 units with mitsubishi units in 4-5 years. Samsung makes the worst hvac equipment.
Samsung make tvs not ac units daikin, mitsubishi, confor aire have years doing this
I install tosot mininsplit fron china
I come back after a year of install, all of them leck after 1 year i lost to mouch on frion and service
Now i do not ofer guaranty on chip units ,they get the lowest quality unit and they want life time guaraty
That’s crazy because I’m a state licensed contractor in Florida who’s installed at least 50 of them and haven’t had one issue out of any of them unlike all the GREE’s I work on I think the problem is you installed them next time get a professional!
How to become a member.. Be specific
Join this channel to get access to perks:
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Thanks for the video. Great tips. how long are you in the trade?
13 years full time
how do i send my 2 stage unut in the 2nd stage ?????
Tie Y1 and Y2 wire together
Can I just put the remote in high cool with high fan speed
yes absolutely if it is wired and programmed correctly you should be able to
Why can't I share to email
I'm not sure
ducted unit installed wrong , good luck getting to coil , blower or pan for cleaning
Thanks for the great video. I have one question though: If you have a multisplit system and have unused ports, like in the video, what do you have to do with them? Are there special caps for them to keep them sealed? I thought, that the system always comes with normal nuts for making the pipe connections.
the ports that are unused are capped from the factory.
@@TaddyDigest Do you have to account for the linesets for the unused ports?
always verify that the caps from factory are torqued to the specific value for that size flare nut. I have had them leak in the past so I am always skeptical
never charge a unit in first stage always at full speed
YOU DIDN'T SHOW HOW TO CHARGE
And, yet, Samsung is the WORST brand of home appliances. Go figure.
Yup that's right
always factory charge
There is no quality control