How to charge mini split yourself, DIY 410a refrigerant, save money!
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2019
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Remember....... the proper way to charge a variable speed mini split is to completely evacuate the system, then weigh in the proper amount of refrigerant.
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REMEMBER TO PURGE THE LINES! I started to film right after purging the lines, but just reminding you to get the air out of the lines! Purging........ On the yellow hose, 1-connect to tank, and gauges. Slowly open the valve on the REFRIGERANT tank as to slowly release some refrigerant 2-On the gauges, slowly unscrew yellow hose at manifold until you hear air out, should just take a second. Quickly tighten. On the blue (suction) hose, 1-Fully tighten hose on the HVAC unit, and on the gauges. 2-Slowly loosen connection on manifold, the remnants of air in the line will bleed out at the connection to the gauges, (you will hear the sound of air coming out) at the manifold connection, and you can quickly tighten immediately after. It is a split second thing! For best results, use a scale and weigh the refrigerant! That means that if it is not working properly the refrigerant must be removed and weighed, then recharged to the amount listed on the out door units tag. If you have low refrigerant, YOU HAVE A LEAK!
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How to charge mini split yourself, get 410a refrigerant, save money!
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Save money... love this video.... best thing to ever happen for many split companies and HV AC contractors. Keep up the good work.
Thanks 👍
IMPORTANT NOTE: You need to purge a little refrigerant through the hose connected to the refrigerant tank *before* connecting to your gauges. You do *not* want to get any air into the system! If you don’t purge the hose, you’ll inject all the air in it into the system.
Yes Dave, that is mentioned on the video description, but thanks for the reminder for everyone.
True
What a simple, straight forward video. Spent 30 min searching around and countless videos to just confuse me untill i came upon this one. Thx!
Thank you!
Thankyou. After looking at many videos, your was the best for my family. Saved 300
Great to hear!
Sweet! our system is revived, because of your video. Thank you!
Great to hear!
I am grateful for these videos. I'm a widow in N.Ca. and the contractors are constantly trying to gouge me. For a single ductless minisplit (21-24seer 18-21 btu) unit I've been quoted 6000-10,000. Costco has a mrcool 21seer/18but for $1,500 now I need to get a friend to help me install. I already had the electrician (his bid for a lot of work was 3.8K where most bids are at 7-10K for electrical work) install the 240/40amp circuit & outlet.
Even electrical seems high.
Thank you Thank You THANK YOU!!! We are having heat wave in LA and my house was so hot and now it's cooling down!! My dogs thank you too!
Glad it helped!
This video is very helpful, thank you for taking the time to help people like me.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for your video I tried it on my Senville two air handler mini split. Aura model 18000btu. It worked like a charm but only after the third try. I must stress to everyone please bleed the lines. Make sure the air conditioner is running when you’re hitting this psi Mark. Again bleed the lines, bleed the lines on the gauges. If you ever have trouble DM me. I can explain to you in detail what I did. I don’t make RUclips videos much at all. My leaks were s result of loose connections. All my refrigerant leaked out so I charged it from empty. Lord bless.
Great share, yes, very important, it was done prior, but also ensure you fix the loose connections BEFORE adding!
Please show me how to charge it from empty (for multi-zone). Thank you
Paper wadder: Please show me how to bleed the line. Thank you
Can agree with many, that video is really great! Would you be so kind and comment how you add refrigerant to air to water heat pump? Unit on and on heating ? What psi I should look for to check if it has the right amount of refrigerant? It's R410a. THANK YOU!
Any recommendations if the unit has 5 line sets (5 units inside the building that are controlled by the one outdoor unit). Would you have all the indoor units running and is there a specific port to use for filling since there are 5 line sets?
One other question. When beginning to add the refrigerant, should both high and low pressure valves on the outside unit of the minisplit be wide open?
Thanks for the tutorial! The AC guy told me that the freon is 1-2 lbs lower than normal two weeks ago. I followed your instruction and made sure all the hoses were securely connected. However, the gauge shows a low side pressure of 0 (the AC is running fine). But it stayed at 210 psi when I release the refrigerant into the unit (is it the tank's pressure?) Do I need to open the service value to get the pressure readings?
YES THank you! Getting ready to do this. Did you do anything with the valves? Did you turn them off or you just hook it up and ahve it running to add the juice? Talking about the valves you turn to release the refrigerant into the system.
Nice! 👌Thanks for sharing ✌😎
My pleasure!
Thanks for the video. Do you know if the procedure differs when you have more than one zone?
Great video and thanks for the help.
When adding refrigerant from a 410a
tank do you keep the two valves open that you open with Allan wrench when releasing the precharged refrigerant from the outside unit upon installation or do you close them.
Thanks again.
Hello, Can you hook up directly the yellow line on to the 410a refigerant tank or do you need the on /off valve adapter? Thanks.
Thank you for the video. My 410a was delivered today and I just got done recharging my 24k BTU Mr Cool. PSI was at 75 and wouldn’t get my garage below 80. It was basically blowing warm air. Turned the AC to 73 and went outside to recharge it. Took about 5 min, As soon as I walked into the garage I could feel the cold air again.. Since I installed the split system myself I had all the tools already. $75 for a bottle of 410a is way better than $500 for a service tech to do it.
AWESOME! Glad you got it, and glad you are cooling now!
Fix the leak!
You have an awesome channel.
Thank you so much!
Brilliant, thank you.
You're very welcome!
How to bleed the refrigerant line before you add it back to the condenser?
Great videos, thank you. Question: I have fujitsu flex dual zone with an AOU18RLXFZH outdoor unit, are the ideal low side pressures the same 117-120 with both evaporators running indoors? Just had a big snow storm up here in CT so it will be a while before I can run it in AC, but the system has had that water running sound along with gassing sounds after cycling off. Fwiw, its been doing that since I sucked it down, released the precharge and started using it last summer. No leaks according to nitrogen test or electronic leak detector since then.
Please bare with me as Im not a HVAC tech. Here goes. I just purchased a LG 22000 btu 1 zone mini split system. The unit comes pre-charged for a 25 foot line set, but I need a 35 foot line set to reach my living room,so I purchased one.. I believe after watching your 2 videos I would do this.....1) Install the system with the 35 foot line set. 2) Vacuum out the line set down to -30psi , wait a while and check for pressure leaks. If there are no leaks, my next step 3) would be to release the R410A which came pre-charged in the unit into the system. 4) Then I would check the pressure in the line set with the vacuum gauge to see what the psi is and then add as much R410A..... which I would have to purchase separately, to get it to between 117psi and 120psi.. Im pretty sure there is no need to purge the system. Does this procedure sound correct....thanks PS the manual says to add 0.38 oz/ft. So that should be about 3.80 lbs.
Yes, sounds like you should be fine. It will be very critical, to use the sealer, amzn.to/367xEf2 to ensure no leaks at the connections. Hope you have your refrigerant already. Ebay seems to still have it, but there's an industry push to eliminate sales on the web. You can get 11 pounds for $107 delivered to your door, and that's not bad considering retail market prices.... rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575339965&toolid=10001&campid=5338199104&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FR410a-R-410a-R-410a-Refrigerant-11lb-tank-New-Factory-Sealed%2F202661144956%3Fhash%3Ditem2f2f8ba97c%253Ag%253Au0YAAOSwz4Zc%257Er2V%253Asc%253AFedExHomeDelivery%252133990%2521US%2521-1%26LH_BIN%3D1
muy buen video carnal gracias por allí darle a la gente gracias
A la orden Ricardo y gracias por suscribir
Thank you for for sharing .
The best practice for mini split is to start from zero ... Pull the vacuum and add refrigerant by weight.
Anyway, I also top up my 9000 BTU gree inverter..
During topping up, I keep monitoring
psi on the gauge,
current from the clamp meter ,
temperature on suction line ,
temperature from supply vs return air on evap unit.
I turn my ac to turbo mode or max cool... run for a while ...and adding refrigerant...
My sweet spot
Gauge psi.. 125-130
Current getting close to RLA (it is ok for mini split to ramp up to RLA on turbo mode... We are not gonna keep using turbo mode all the time in real life, right?... The current will go down when on normal operation.
Super-Heat keeps fluctuating in the range of 5 +-3, which is normal
Delta T or return air temp minus supply air temp on the evap indoor unit is between 15-20 degreeF
Thank you for sharing!
What if you think your mini split is empty of freon and your compressor is barely running at all do I perform a pressure test and do I need to pull a vaccum before I add fresh refrigerant
12,000 btu Senville low presser no refrigerant
Does the 117-120 psi range apply to different sizes of AC units?
Failed recharge. sigh.
I recently installed a new Senville 18K btu unit. Did a 1.5 hr vacuum test, no problem.
Finished setup and started the system running. (note: It's winter!)
It started heating just fine. Then I got a call and had to leave for six hours.
Came back - and it wasn't heating anymore.
Turned it off, and checked the Freon pressure. it was 0. Apparently the system developed a nasty leak somewhere.
Since I had shortened the lineset (I only need about 20'), I assumed my flaring job wasn't good enough.
Due to shipping snafus, I had a spare lineset (25'), so I just replaced my shortened one with a factory built one (and looped it).
Since I had to wait for the Freon to arrive, I did a VERY LONG (4 day) vacuum test. It held vacuum.
It's 36 deg F outside.
Since there was no freon and I didn't want to run the compressor when empty, I did a slow fill to 100psi.
Then powered up the system, and was able to fill it to 115psi. Wouldn't go higher. (freon too cold??)
Yes, it's in Cooling mode - as I do have an alternate heat source in the house.
Let it run for 15 minutes - no cooling, blower running inside, the fan on the outside unit is NOT running, but I can hear the compressor running.
Pressure hasn't changed.
Tried flipping it to Heat mode, and waited 15 minutes. No heating inside, inside blower running, outside fan and compressor running.
No heat. Pressure hasn't changed.
Gave up and shut it all down.
Any suggestions?
Did you open the valves from the compressor to the lines? Towards the beginning of the video, he said don't try and add refrigerant to these ports. Ask me why I know? Been there, done that. Once you have the lines all connected, take the caps off and open the valves on both the high and low, you should hear a hissing sound as the preloaded refrigerant goes from the compressor to the lines. Open the valves all the way until the stop and then see if you get the heating and cooling desired. This is somewhat off the top of my head recalling from a couple of years ago, but I think there was also set of a master valves on top of the individual ports on my unit as well, so you might want to check that as well.
It is 6 degrees outside and I put my pump in cooling mode but the outdoor unit will not come on because it is too cold any suggestions?
When disconnecting the blue line will I lose refrigerant?
thank you help me a lot!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for giving us the game!
Your welcome!
Is this static or dynamic, static pressure should be 120? Dynamic meaning the system is operating.
I connected the hoses to charge my Mitsubishi mini split and it looks like it has 150 psi. Does this mean it is overcharged and I need to remove some of the 410a to get to the 120 psi?
The unit is running in cooling mode and the temp outside is 75 and 90% humidity.
What is the best way to get it to the sweet spot 117-120 psi?
Thanks
On the yellow hose at the gauges don’t remove that hose just slightly open it up till you see the Freon coming out then just simply tighten it up and then proceed on what he’s describing you need to get the contaminated air out of your hoses first
Correct. A split second is enough until you see refrigerant come out, so you can purge it.
Thank you for posting this. I have 2 mini splits that need recharge every 2 years that costs me close to $500 each time I call a service tech. I got everything for less than $200 and should last me 10 years
Glad to help. However, you may have a really small, slow leak if you need recharge every two years, and should try to find out where the source is. It may be at the ends. Try this, it works extremely well, and use it when you have to add refrigerant again, and you may never have to add refrigerant, as it's a closed loop system.... amzn.to/3edDJsX
SaveGreenHere techs have checked everything and even new line sets and pressure test. They told me (2 different companies) that the flare fittings are what leaks and are a poor design. I loved these ductless units in the beginning but I would never do this again and cannot recommend them anymore.
@@Captfuntastic You need to use this. Otherwise, you are asking for it...... amzn.to/33zQLz6
SaveGreenHere tried that already
@@Captfuntastic Flares made right don't leak, mini splits are great, a good flare tool matters too
Thank you for the refrigerant link. I will have all the supplies I need to get this done. QUESTION:
When beginning to add the refrigerant, should both high and low pressure valves on the outside unit of the mini split be wide open? What about when doing a back pressure test with Nitrogen. Are they open or closed? I don't want to mess up the compressor or anything by accidentally shooting nitrogen in there if its not supposed to be. Thank you for all your help.
Watched the ads for your channels ad revenue. Will be watching more of your mini split electrical wiring videos tomorrow.
You're not ready for this bro.
what is the mathematical relation between the PSI and the temperature cuz the right PSI must be read in 25 C° so how can i calculate the right psi in any given temperature ?
Is the procedure the same for a multi-head system?
Hi buddy
What's the sweet spot for R32 please?
Just found your channel, and absolutely love the content!! I have an LG24k three zone unit. Would I be able to use this same process and shoot for the 117-120 psi? Thanks so much! Subscribed!!
There have been some variations with some manufacturers and models, so look at the manual. It's there on the ones we have installed.
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
How do you add EasySeal Ultimate LS? Can you do a video on it?
Had to believe our getting more than a 50° drop in temps.
It's 88°outside. I'm getting 45° out of my vents. What I find odd is that my evaporator coils are at 60°.
How to test mini split went it doesn't even turn on , how many psi when ist of should be reading.
Do you charge it with the compressor on?
Thsnks for showing how to open and close the valve. Can you make a video to show where the blue and yellow hose are connected.
Hey Mo! You are welcome! The other videos we uploaded cover that...... ruclips.net/video/RndlC9g5HzQ/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/b_aysEpNLes/видео.html
I would appreciate a response to Raimundo Vazquez's issue as I encountered a very similar issue.
Great vid! Hey No one has a video on removing part of the charge on a minisplit that has shorter lines than the built in charge was designed for. Can you please do one? I feel like it's just release the full charge into the lines, start the system, and slowly recover via the suction side of your manifold into a recovery tank while monitoring the scale until you reach the weight that matches the pre-charged weight minus the final weight your line length requires. Is that correct?
Yes, you can use a scale if there is some, you can recover it and use a scale. In this case, there was ZERO refrigerant on this system.
Very good information what size of AC you put the Freon in and what was the in temp
That was a 9000 BTU system and the temp was around 100 degrees in the Summer.
Hello, great video and would be easy to do here in the summer however it is winter right now. Can this process be used while the unit is running in heat mode? If so, what pressure should I look for when in heating mode. According to your video, the sweet spot is 117-120psi when running in cool mode.
Has to be on cool mode.
Hi,
Should the AC be off when doing this ? And thanks for the amazing video. It's crystal clear.
Needs to be on, and in cooling mode.
If you go to the support section from the manufacturer of you mini split they will send you a chart showing the proper PSI needed according to the temperature outside and the temperature inside. This will be more accurate.
Thanks for the info Dean!
I found pressure to be really unreliable on a mini split, especially if it's something with an electronic expansion valve, as they will adjust both the subcooling and superheat on the fly for optimal condition...
Mine doesn't have electronic expansion valves, just capillary tubes, but I did it by pressure and feels like I might have overcharged it, as the compressor started becoming harder and harder to start, and dropping the charge (recovering refrigerants) fixed it. When this is done, the AC is cooling better but also the compressor hard start problem disappeared. However on the R22 system the pressure is reading to around 40 psi (which corresponds to a saturation temperature of about -10C), and it would never go above that, but any attempt to try and go over that either resulted in weakening the compressor or even seizing it up. I think saturation temperature adjusts itself based on various operating conditions as well as fan speed (you really want a ton of airflow over the evaporator to get accurate reading). If you look inside a mini split condenser there's a capillary tube leading from the condenser coil before it comes out to the valves. I do not know why this exists but there is likely a reason for it. This does not exist in standard AC units with a TXV. I know some even do it by current draw, but again, it seems unreliable. Weight seems to be the most accurate way to do it.
It feels like a mini split needs to be completely recovered and then have the charge weighted out.
Great points! Yes recovering completely and weighing is key, and mentioned in the video description.
Brilliant 👏
Thanks.
Great Vid Thanks. Any other suggestions for sourcing 410A. The like above is dead. Tx
You have to click the second link in the video description where a bunch of related links are at. Here it is anyway....... ebay.us/YKjza2
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Following your steps i was able to fill my system
I have 2 zones
I hook up the gauge to the 1/4 inch pipe like you said and
I was scare at first because when I hook up the gauge it was at 50 but when put it on cool and turn on the system it will drop too zero
It didn't exactly match your video but I knew I didn't have a leak because I pressure test the system and ran a vacuum before
So I just said fuk it and follow your video it was on cool and the system was running the gauge was at zero but as I put gas in the gauge will go up little by little until the gauge read 115-117 sweet spot
Also I went to each unit and the air went from just cool air too actually cold air
I think in your video the system probably had more gas then my system or maybe because my system is 2 zones that why its started at 0 when I ran it
Thank you, I really appreciate the help, gonna check to see if you have a donate page like with PayPal want to send you $50 tip for your help bro
You are welcome! On your question, my Paypal is savegreenhere@gmail.com Thanks, much appreciated!
Gonna send it tonight or tomorrow, thanks
If I'm just checking does it need to be running to check how much is in there?....I went to check it and it really came out...should I check it when not running..thanks subscribed
Yes, it needs to be running, and on COOLING mode.
to the < is open to the > is close🤣
All valves closed except the blue one. Best practice is to vacuum out the lines, done before video). Weight the refrigerant on a scale, according to what the label on your unit says, Example, 1.5 pounds. Slowly, open the blue valve, and let the unit run on cool, and open the blue valve and allow some refrigerant, and let the unit stabilize for 15 minutes. Adding refrigerant is a step that requires patience, and the proper tools. Unfortunately not many have either, lol.
My two pounder ran out during the fill. It read zero and got it up to 105. It's working but I might have a leak
Get this.... amzn.to/3VoUy9N and see the video on how to use it here.... ruclips.net/video/hQjOhWkGmM4/видео.html
When I removed that adapter I lost a bunch of freon and oil on my new mini split, should I add a little more oil? And do I add freon if needed with the outside unit on or off? Sorry for the questions I do not want to mess this up.
ALWAYS add wit unit running in cooling mode. You will always lose a bit when removing the fitting. Nothing major.
Thanks for these two videos!!! Unfortunately your eBay link for the refrigerate is no longer there 😞
Thanks!
Great to know
Thanks!
I thought with inverter systems the fan speeds, compressor speed and metering device are constantly changing so you weren't able to tell the state of charge by just looking at the pressure (or the superheat and subcooling) like you can with a single speed system.
You are correct. I'm not sure he mentioned this being an inverter system. That being said, I'm installing a couple of inverter systems. I forgot I wanted to check pressure running at full speed. I will do that when I'm finished installing the second system.
Do you need to have your unit running while you're charging this to get the right pressure readings?
Yes
How long can you store the refrigerant, if you buy it now and may need it when the AC is needed which would be in a few months from now here in Illinois.....we have 2 mini splits Gree brand, the one is good, no problems the newer model seems to be low on refrigerant at the start up of each summer which will be the third this coming year, we checked for leaks, tighten up the fittings and it's all good, just never did find where it's loosing it. It heats fine in the winter though. Luckily we have a friend that an AC guy and he comes by to fill it for about $100 each time, but this would be nice to have handy instead.
No, refrigerant will not go bad. As long as you have a fully sealed cylinder and there are no leaks on the cylinder you refrigerant will last indefinitely. ... Other than that your cylinder is a sealed unit and will not deplete or leak any refrigerant over its lifetime. If "your friend" is charging you $100 "each time" he comes, he's probably adding a pound, two, or three pounds. Get 25 pounds for $110 and do it yourself MANY TIMES OVER with this jug....... ebay.to/38U1yn8 If you need gauges, the link on the description has the best priced one.
Thanks!
No problem!
I have a dual zone Mr Cool, was wanting to know do I add freon to both zones or does one zone recharge whole system.
Probably too late for you personally, but I have a trizone and the manufacturer said it’s three separate systems.
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure!
You didn't talk about purging the system that I could find. How do you do that?
ruclips.net/video/RndlC9g5HzQ/видео.html
Where can I buy a new port that you fill the unit through? It is that brass fitting attached to the AC unit. Mine has an extremely small leak under that large cap next to where you are filling in the video
I found the leak with an infrared detector, very small but it does leak!
Thanks if you can help!
JIM
amzn.to/43A5o1i
Great video, Thank You! What fan speed do you run the inside unit at while checking and adding refrigerant?
Highest.
@@SaveGreenHere Thanks!
Hey guys. God bless all.
I hope someone can help me.
I have a blue ridge mini split multi zone, last year works fine, but now is not cooling, there's not errors displayed in the indoor unit and not freezing pipes into the outside unit, i still think must be something with refrigerant load. Any idea how to fine a refrigerat load using the gauge.? I know for a single zone is about 117 to 125 psi. Is the same for a 4 zone minisplit?
Thanks for any help.
God bless America
Is this 470a compatible with the r410a that is already in my machine or do I need to do a complete purge and change over? thanks
You can't mix different refrigerant types
Is the sweet spot of 117-120 the same on all model/size split systems?
Depends on size of the unit, and the outdoor temps.
question, when your releasing the freon in increments..the 2 valves on the condenser..should they be open or close?..if you can please clarify.i appreciated. am just confused, because when your doing a vacuum to your system to make sure there ar no leaks, your suppose to have the valves closed, and then after open the 2nd valve for 5 seconds and close it again, and then remove the vacuum, and then you open both valves again..so for charging the unit, do they have to be open or close...thanks
When we did this, there was no refrigerant on the system, and it was vacuumed. We did another video on the vacuum process here on our RUclips channel. Always best to use a scale as well. In this video, the tube of refrigerant was within an ounce of the total refrigerant the mini split label indicated for the system.
Top informative video
Thanks a lot
What would be the sweet spot if I have 1 condenser and 5 air handlers?
its f5 different lines so each line would be 117-120
Hi I have a ductless split pioneer a/c system and I believe it needs more refrigerant also. Where do you get it? can you use the stuff that works in automobiles or no? R-410A? the link for the small bottle doesn't work that you posted above?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Look at the side of your unit indoors, the label will tell you how much refrigerant you need. If you need 2 pounds or less, this is a good option...... ebay.us/UMOOEg but if for some reason you need more, like 5 pounds, try this one.... ebay.us/xWoD5Y and for 25 pounds, try this...... ebay.us/PQCoux
Does the unit have to be running ? And how do you hook up the hoses with out loosing freon
Needs to be running.
Thanks for the informative video. Just have a question about any possible air in the system or line when you attach the canister to the unit. Is there anything or any way to bleed out the slight amount of air that is in the line/hose before the refrigerant is added? Thanks!
Put ball valves on, like these.... amzn.to/2Q0jO81
@@SaveGreenHere I have not seen those, but that seems like a great way to do it. Thanks!
Thank you. a great Reference to doing things: I have the gauges adapter and 410A thanks to a friend. i have fujitsu AOU24RML1 4lb. Design pressure High side 450, low side 240 It has two 9KBTU units to one machine? I should add to 240 psi if I am LOW. I'll look for one with the same machine to help on. appreciate some advice
If you have removed all the refrigerant from the system than you should put back the specificfication weight of 410a.
@@robertberin4872 what port do we have to use to fill up refrigerant? (for multi-zone unit).
Thanks.
i did not know you can add as liquid to the gas side .
have a blessed day...i need help..i have Mitsubishi aircon 1.5hp inverter, now very low cooling, i wanted to fill up gas, i checked with gas gauge pressure is in 140psi, but in this video showing should be max 120psi...i m confuse now.... please guide me, thanks
Depends on the size of your unit. The side of your unit should have a label that tells you how much refrigerant goes into that particular system.
Thank you for your refrigerant. I have ordered a 5 lb tank. My question is do we need to turn the A/C on while we charging.
Yes you do
@@SaveGreenHere thank you so much. And another question, i have a problem with my liquid line that was leaked and lose all the refrigerant inside the hole. After that my inside unit has some noise. Hence i need to fix my liquid line and cleaning the liquid line of the insides unit. Could i pump down like the way you show on the other video and fix the liquid line?
Can you tell me why side panel on mr cool says design pressure low 340psi and hi 550?
Is it going to be 340psi rather than 120?
340 and 550 is the high side..the suction line ( vapor) is 120..
hello, my split unit label plate said Lo 340psi Hi 550psi. Is it normal? seems big difference to 120psi. I charged it to 120psi, it just cool not too cold.
Can you please share the video on how to add 410A for traditional AC.
Similar process, just add on the suction line, the thicker one!
117 to 120 is the sweet spot. But whats the max r410a you can put into a mini split? My freon is in the sweet spot but a/c aint blowing that cold.
Outside unit dirty?
I have a Climate Right mini split system. When I connect a gauge at the only access port the pressure gauge immediately tops out at over 200psi.
Unfortunately this 5 year-old system seems to be discontinued, so this is a bit of a hail mary to get it working again.
Any thoughts?
When charging the mini split or adding freon does it need to be running or off???
Running. And on cooling mode.
I really appreciate your videos, I have several mini splits that I have to charge and if you could help me clarify a few things I would be most thankful. I have several Idea air mini split ac/heat pumps to move, one 3 ton still blowing nice and cold and heats, one 2 ton that cools and heats but not like it used to, and a 1 ton that no longer heats or cools. I've watched your video on how to check the pressure and the other on recharging, these units have quick connect fittings so I dont think I can use the nylon sealant. My question is could you suggest a procedure on moving them, i.e am I to just close the line valves, disconnect the quick connect hoses, transport and reconnect everything, reopen the valves , puge air from hoses then follow your 2 videos , or am I missing some steps? Thank you in advance.....
You need to pump it down into the compressor. Then you can transport. Once transported to new location, make sure you use nylog at the connections if they are flared, or if welded, verify no leaks by following these steps with vacuum pump. On that video description, there is info on the pump you can use and other materials..... ruclips.net/video/b_aysEpNLes/видео.html
@@SaveGreenHere thank you so much
Don't you have to wait around 10 minutes in between charges to allow the system to "settle" with each charge?
10 to 15 minutes.
Purging........ On the yellow hose, 1-connect to tank, and gauges. Slowly open the valve on the REFRIGERANT tank as to slowly release some refrigerant 2-On the gauges, slowly unscrew yellow hose at manifold until you hear air out, should just take a second. Quickly tighten. On the blue (suction) hose, 1-Fully tighten hose on the HVAC unit, and on the gauges. 2-Slowly loosen connection on manifold, the remnants of air in the line will bleed out at the connection to the gauges, (you will hear the sound of air coming out) at the manifold connection, and you can quickly tighten immediately after. It is a split second thing!
SaveGreenHere oh ok thank you so much for the info am gonna do that today 🙏🏼
You should be fine!
@@SaveGreenHere , do you have a video on how to get the R410A out of a wall unit and into the compressor so that I can replace the wall unit?
Is such a large tank of refrigerant needed? How much does the unit acutally take from the 25lb tank link you provided?
How many BTU is your system? All depends on size, and if you will need some again in the future, if you did not properly seal the leak.
I bought the small tank and have a auto manifold but I can’t yellow hose is to big. What connect should I buy? It’s different from the one that hooks up to the mini split.
From what you mentioned, you need to have an adapter...... amzn.to/3AytMVa
Apologies if this was already asked, but did you charge the system with the unit running? Everything I read is that the refrigerant needs to be recovered then the system vacuumed back down in order to add refrigerant. I’d prefer not to do that! If running, do you need to be on test mode? Thanks!
Yes, it was asked, but no worries. Run in COOLING mode while adding.
I didn't see you use a vacuum pump for this. Is it not needed? Also, if we do need a vacuum pump, would a single stage model work (it's about half the cost)?
You have a leak if you need refrigerant, so first check you flare ends and seal with Nylog or Flareseal gaskets as shown on my other video. Once confirmed 100% sealed, perform a vacuum. Check out my other video on the vacuum pump, and yes you can use a single stage just takes longer. Make sure you also purge the air out before you start adding refrigerant. You can get them really affordable here..... ebay.to/2CWEr0X
When my main living room indoor unit is on In cooling mode it cools off awesome. Approx 1000 sq feet room. But when all 4 units are on it doesn’t cool as effectively and struggles to get to set temp. The other units cool though.
Also for the bedroom units to cool really well the main one has to be on and cooling…. What’s up with my unit?? It’s a 4 zone Trane 20 seer I believe.
Check for proper refrigerant levels. There may be a leak, that is only noticeable when all are running.
The person who set it up could have got the wiring from each unit connected in the wrong order. Meaning unit a b c d is wired a c b d at the outside unit. That would cause the explanation of other units needing to be on to get another to cool. So if unit a and b are swapped at the outside unit, then that would cause unit a needing to be on for unit b to cool. This is because each unit send a signal saying "I'm on send me freon". Hope I made sense...