Man, I absolutely love your content, thank you for taking your time to make videos like this. Ass soon as I recieve my e55 frame I'll produce content like yours in portuguese, so my brazilian brothers can understand a lot more about Bafang motors and dengfu frames. Thank you
What i like about that battery pack is it has 21700 cells in it that are higher capacity batteries than 18650 and are cheaper to buy than 18650 batteries if you ever want to repack it one day when it dies it'll be a cheaper to rebuild.
Yes. Lights (front and rear) can be easily wired into the motor using the dedicated plugs and can be turned on or off by the display/handlebar remote. Brands like Supeenova, Spanninga, Busch & Muller (just to name a few), can be used and are powered by the main ebike battery👍🏿
Apologies for the delay Dave. I did. But you may not necessarily need too. If the M620 you have is uart and is set to a 48v battery and you're using a 52v battery, then you'll need to set the minimum voltage cut-off to reflect this. For a 52v battery, the cut-off value needs to be set to 43v. However, if you're using a CANBus M620, you'll need the besst tool to change the firmware. Other parameters (speed limit, power, wheel circumstance etc), I have tweaked but this is just for personal preference. But its not necessary. If you tell me how you want the motor to respond/perform, I can provide you settings to try👍🏿
There are two blue connectors on the M620. One is open (female) and the other is closed (male). The male blue connector is for the front light and the female blue connector is for a rear tail light. The light connectors use a proprietary bafang connector to install into the M620. However, the light connector to attach onto a light is a traditional spade connector👍🏿
The power switch would only be made redundant if you bypass the BMS trigger switch in the batteries for the E22/E23/E10. The Reention Rhino battery used for the E55/E56 (and other frames which aren't Dengfu), doesn't suffer with the intermittent power loss issue. Although, you can still build your own battery if required👍🏿
lol. the lighting makes it look a bit purple. but it's just a dark gloss finish frame. I've opted not to paint the E55. But I've seen some incredible examples of custom painted / decaled E55s on the Facebook community group👍🏿
Eggrider v2 comes to mind. However, I'll be testing a couple new displays so I'll spread the word. My friend has a custom decal business, so I'll message him to see if I can implement a bit of purple on the frame👍🏿
Looking forward to the build video Neeko. Does the E55 need an angle headset? 64° headtube angle and 77° seattube angle seems modern compared to other ebikes.
When paired with a 170mm travel fork, the headtube angle is 64° and a 77° seat tube angle (29er F&R). My intention will be to run E55 with 180mm travel+ fork. However, obtaining a 51mm offset fork (referenced on the geometry chart), greater than 140mm travel nowadays is proving to be more difficult (unless you're prepared to spend crazy money on a custom fork from TF Tuned). The angle headsets with a 44mm/42mm offset "should" allow me to achieve a similar handling bike, without altering the wheelbase, bb height and stack height...........in theory😅 But I'll play around with different setups and update you Nazeem👍🏿
35nm for the securing bolts (light grease on the shaft of the bolts and blue threadlock on the threads). 45nm on the chainring spider lockring (again, greased). 40nm per each crank bolt (greased splines) & 5nm for the side cover & bash guard which uses philips hesd screws👍🏿
That's a good question. The bike has only been built up for roughly 2 weeks at the time of me writing this comment. I have tested the E55 to the E22. But I wouldn't mind having more ride time on the E55 to gather my thoughts and opinions. They are different (more different compared to the E10 & E22). But I feel that each bike shows inherent strengths, depending on specific circumstances. But I'll explain this (and more) in the upcoming vid👍🏿
The motor was brand new with 0 miles for this video. The reason for the mileage, is due to the display being one of my spares before being swapped out for something else. But the mileage can be removed by clearing any recorded data on any uart protocol display. Hope this answers your question👍🏿
Good question and sincere apologies for the delay. I'll be honest, the answer isn't as straight forward. Please kindly keep a watchful eye as I'll make a dedicated video explaining everything👍🏿
The black connector is the negative wire. The red connector is the positive. Do not switch them and simply plug each connector together with the corresponding colour👍🏿
Are you running the 52v 500c display, Eggrider v2 display or something else Neeko? I'm trying to find displays which work with 52v+ batteries which aren't expensive👍🏾
Currently, I'm experimenting with different displays for the E55. Dengfu have asked me to play around with different displays and configurations of the bike. I'll keep 'price per display' in mind, as I play around with them. But so far, the 500c 52v display seems to be the cheapest. But I'm awaiting on a SW09 52v display so I'll update both the channel and the Dengfu Facebook community group👍🏿
hi there, it would be difficult to explain the significant differences between CANBus & UART within a simple reply. What i'll do, is make a video which will go into detail outlining the differences and answering any myths which surround the two motor variables. As for the main reduction gear, the newer UART (pre 2020) all use the steel gear. All CANBus M620s use the steel gear as well. Keep a watchful eye on upcoming content👍🏿
Hi Neeko hope you are OK. My name is Richard. I am having a prob with my bike. It's a Sondors lx 48 v Bafang m 620 motor Display dcp 35. Bike is turning on and showing codes 21& 36. I strip the bike down and found the negative terminal broken. Reconnect and restart the codes are still there. When you try to operate the bike it goes blank on the screen. Battery is fully charge at 53.8 v. Is there a way to clear the codes. And where is the GBK business located that you spoke about. If you can help I will appreciate it thanks
Hi Richard, I'm always happy to help and assist. Please kindly bear with me as I make a quick enquiry (I'm pretty sure Sondors used M620 CANBus). I'd so, I should be able to point you in the right direction. I'll get back to you very soon👍🏿
I’m not sure if you tried the 750w variant. But the m620 has 1000w and a 750w variant. Have you tried the 750w? I would like to know if it’s worth upgrading to the 1000w. My 750w canbus m620 peaks at 1255w with a 48v battery. Thank you
I haven't tried the 750w M620 for the E55. But you could argue that the E55 is more designed for the 1000w M620 (CANBus and/or UART) atleast. Considering the E55 cam support a 52v battery. My E22 uses a 750w uart M620, which I can program to make 1000w. But I'll explain this more in an upcoming video when I compare the performance and capabilities of both👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi my question was more, I have a canbus m620 750w, is it worth upgrading to a canbus 1000w m620? How well does your 750w uart perform compared to the 1000w (no programming), since I can’t program it
Gottya👍🏿. Essentially, a stock uart M620 is no different compared to a stock firmware CANBus M620. The only real differences between the two is the speed in which data is transferred and relayed between display to motor, speed signal to motor & battery output to motor etc. The peak output of the M620 however is meaningless, unless you have a battery which can provide the power and range to sustain the additional watts generated. E.g. the biggest battery the E22 can support is a 52v 15amp battery. Paired with a 1000w M620 (uart or CANBus), the performance would be more noticable compared to a 750w M620 with a 48v 17amp battery, as the efficiency of power is increased and motor's controller (subject to programming) would allow the continuous flow of power without regulating the output to keep within maximum current. However, the range/runtime becomes questionable. Especially if you're using the higher levels of assist ot relying more on throttle than pedal assist. If you compare this to a 52v 20amp battery (with the same 1000w M620 motor), you don't lose the performance benefits. And increase the range & runtime. So in other-words. if you have a bigger capacity battery to pair with a 1000w M620, then yes. The performance benefits are noticable. You would find that if you required level 2/3 or 3/5 with a 750w M620 to do a steep climb, this would be levels 1/3 or 2/5 with the 1000w M620. BUT sustaining the power consistently with a 1000w+ M620 is heavily reliant on a high capacity battery. Apologies for the lengthy response. If I've still not answered your question (or need more information), please reach out to me on Facebook or Instagram. I can try and demonstrate the difference👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi your response was amazing. My battery is a 48v 21amp. I get exceptional range with the 750w. What about top speed on flat ground. How does the 750w uart compare to the 1000w (I know gear ratios matter heavily and the battery voltage), but I’m trying to get a vague idea on their differences
An M620 ran at 750w would produce 120NM of torque. Essentially, the motor's maximum current is set to 20amps. Whereas the 1000w M620 (by default), is set to 30amps. Producing 160mm of torque. Essentially, the real difference is the propulsion and the response time in which the motor delivers the power. Everything becomes further amplified, as the power increases. As for top speed. Essentially the M620 has always been able to achieve on average 30-35mph (750w or 1000w). The difference is just how quickly you achieve the top end speed. Giving the M620 a mechanical advantage can aid in further increasing the speed. But like most things, it's a balancing act. E.g. my E22 (now) usee a 36t chainring, paired with a 11-50t cassette with a 750w M620. Using the 48v 840wh battery, it will achieve near 40mph on average in higher levels of assist. But it will require shifting down the cassette gradually for the motor to get the rpm necessary to reach that speed. My E55 (using the same drivetrain and gear ratio) with its 1000w M620 and 52v kilowatt battery, does not need as much mechanical advantage to reach the same speed. Instead the etiquette used for the E22 to achieve 40mph, would allow the E55 to achieve 52.2mph. But again, it's a balancing act. As this will prematurely wear down the drivetrain more with the 1000w M620 compared to the 750w M620. Of course, tyre tred /compound, wheelsize, weight etc, would also play a role in achieving top speed & range as well👍🏿
Im told that in order to change the program it needs a programming display, do you know where i could get one from ? i need to change the voltage to 52v and change the wattage slightly on pedal assist 1 as its too much.
Depending on whether you have a UART or CANBus M620, the method varies. With the UART, a simple programming cable (similar to what BBS owners use) and a laptop/desktop with a USB port is required. the programming cable is readily available online (Ebay, Amazon, GBK etc). The programming tool (which allows torque amendment) is necessary and is freely downloadable using a quick Google search. Alternatively, you could buy an Eggrider v2 display. This display enables programming of the UART M620 on the fly without the need of a laptop/desktop. If you have a CANBus version, you need the BESSt Tool and an account with Bafang to amend the firmware. Each firmware for the M620 alters the behaviour of the motor. However, specific values for torque & maximum current cannot be altered 👍🏿
Hi mate I am hopeing you can help me I have a homemade ebike that has a voilamart conversion kit on now I'm wanting to put a new controler and throttle on and the on I want says it's compatible with uart but I don't know what that is and if it will fit my ebike would you happen to know if it would work cheers man ✌ 👍
Hi there. I have looked through the Voilamart website and understand that the kit does have provisions to support a throttle. However, their controller and connectors are based on the the old SM Molex connectors. Meaning that swapping the controller would mean swapping out the majority of the system (display, cadence sensor, wire harness/loom, throttle and possibly the hub motor). UART Protocol is essentially connection style whereby, everything individual component is on a separate relay. Meaning that each component doesn't need to communicate with another to operate. Thus, making UART highly programmable. Manufacturers such as Bafang, CYC, Tong Sheng etc, use this style of protocol to dial in the specifications and performance of the system, depending on the application. But the primary benefit of UART is that the system lends itself to being more 'plug-n-play'. Meaning that you can swap out components and replace them more easily compared to researching whether a particular component is compatible with another system. Your current controller from voilamart isn't UART compatible. In order to achieve what you're looking for, it would require a complete strip down and replacing of the kit/system. The good news is that the one thing which you could carry over onto the new system is your current battery. But if you're intention is to run higher power/voltage, then you would need to factor in sourcing a more powerful battery. I'd be more than happy to assist in terms of both guiding you / assisting you, as I've swapped out complete systems on both mainstream and DIY ebikes before. Feel free to contact me either through email, Instagram or Facebook and we'll go from their (links to my contact details in the description and on my channel bio)👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi man thanks so much for taking the time out to help me and it definitely has helped me saved me from buying the wrong thing and if it's OK with you would it be OK to pick your brains every now and then cheers mate 👍
Not a problem. Truth be told, you're not the first person to enquire about these type of matters. So I usually assist as much as I can. Feel free to contact me if you ever need help or advice👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi thanks man that's really nice of you And today you have already saved me £90 because I was going to order it and just hope it was right It's great to know that I have got someone I can ask if I'm stuck with an ebike problem so thanks again mate ✌👍🚴♀️
Their's a bit more to it than that. The torque sensors differ, along with the boot up sequence defined between both respective communication protocols. It might be worth while shooting a separate video, explaining the differences to avoid confusion and doubt👍🏿
@neekodevinchi people asking are obviously not to educated with the motor! You don't want to confuse them even more!! Easy answer is they are physically the same!
Man, I absolutely love your content, thank you for taking your time to make videos like this.
Ass soon as I recieve my e55 frame I'll produce content like yours in portuguese, so my brazilian brothers can understand a lot more about Bafang motors and dengfu frames.
Thank you
Thanks Neeko, id be interested in the battery bms restart video when you have a chance .
On it👍🏿
Want one these bikes looks well nice
What i like about that battery pack is it has 21700 cells in it that are higher capacity batteries than 18650 and are cheaper to buy than 18650 batteries if you ever want to repack it one day when it dies it'll be a cheaper to rebuild.
I see there is "lights" button on the handlebars, so can lights be switched on/off with this button and powered by the main battery?
Yes. Lights (front and rear) can be easily wired into the motor using the dedicated plugs and can be turned on or off by the display/handlebar remote. Brands like Supeenova, Spanninga, Busch & Muller (just to name a few), can be used and are powered by the main ebike battery👍🏿
Did you have to connect the bms communication cable or can it work without(only 2 wire battery connector )
Hi, Hope your well, just wondered if you changed to motor controller settings from standard and if so what is your preference. Cheers Dave
Apologies for the delay Dave.
I did. But you may not necessarily need too. If the M620 you have is uart and is set to a 48v battery and you're using a 52v battery, then you'll need to set the minimum voltage cut-off to reflect this. For a 52v battery, the cut-off value needs to be set to 43v.
However, if you're using a CANBus M620, you'll need the besst tool to change the firmware.
Other parameters (speed limit, power, wheel circumstance etc), I have tweaked but this is just for personal preference. But its not necessary.
If you tell me how you want the motor to respond/perform, I can provide you settings to try👍🏿
Can you tell where the lighting cable plugs in?
There are two blue connectors on the M620. One is open (female) and the other is closed (male). The male blue connector is for the front light and the female blue connector is for a rear tail light. The light connectors use a proprietary bafang connector to install into the M620. However, the light connector to attach onto a light is a traditional spade connector👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi Thank you very much.
Dengfu are still using power switches on the frame. Why? Isn't the power switch redundant like the E10 and E22?
The power switch would only be made redundant if you bypass the BMS trigger switch in the batteries for the E22/E23/E10. The Reention Rhino battery used for the E55/E56 (and other frames which aren't Dengfu), doesn't suffer with the intermittent power loss issue. Although, you can still build your own battery if required👍🏿
Darn, that thumbnail makes me wanna have that frame in Matt purple
lol. the lighting makes it look a bit purple. but it's just a dark gloss finish frame. I've opted not to paint the E55. But I've seen some incredible examples of custom painted / decaled E55s on the Facebook community group👍🏿
Yeah , mat purple me too
@@neekodevinchi yes I figured hah, but purple would look cool. What display will you use that works with 52v m620 if not the c18?
Eggrider v2 comes to mind. However, I'll be testing a couple new displays so I'll spread the word.
My friend has a custom decal business, so I'll message him to see if I can implement a bit of purple on the frame👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi I'm soon about to order mine in midnight purple because of your video🤣
Looking forward to the build video Neeko. Does the E55 need an angle headset? 64° headtube angle and 77° seattube angle seems modern compared to other ebikes.
When paired with a 170mm travel fork, the headtube angle is 64° and a 77° seat tube angle (29er F&R). My intention will be to run E55 with 180mm travel+ fork. However, obtaining a 51mm offset fork (referenced on the geometry chart), greater than 140mm travel nowadays is proving to be more difficult (unless you're prepared to spend crazy money on a custom fork from TF Tuned). The angle headsets with a 44mm/42mm offset "should" allow me to achieve a similar handling bike, without altering the wheelbase, bb height and stack height...........in theory😅
But I'll play around with different setups and update you Nazeem👍🏿
Now I'm excited. Will you also try the E55 with the M630 as well?
In due course, yes. The E55 will be the ideal frame for that motor👍🏿
Wicked!!
I sense an E55 vs E22 video on the horizon👍🏽
Yeah boi!!!🤙🏿
What torque specs did you use when installing the M620 bolts to the E55 frame? Thanks !
35nm for the securing bolts (light grease on the shaft of the bolts and blue threadlock on the threads). 45nm on the chainring spider lockring (again, greased). 40nm per each crank bolt (greased splines) & 5nm for the side cover & bash guard which uses philips hesd screws👍🏿
im from America, are there any other Chinese ebikes I should be looking at also?
I'll be covering further frames in due course. So keep a watchful eye👍🏿
Would you say the e55 is the best frame for the m620 & your style of riding?
That's a good question. The bike has only been built up for roughly 2 weeks at the time of me writing this comment.
I have tested the E55 to the E22. But I wouldn't mind having more ride time on the E55 to gather my thoughts and opinions.
They are different (more different compared to the E10 & E22). But I feel that each bike shows inherent strengths, depending on specific circumstances.
But I'll explain this (and more) in the upcoming vid👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi looking forward to that video
Did you use the motor before? It already has quite a few kilometers on it. Or is it the display from another bike and shows the previous trip?
The motor was brand new with 0 miles for this video. The reason for the mileage, is due to the display being one of my spares before being swapped out for something else. But the mileage can be removed by clearing any recorded data on any uart protocol display.
Hope this answers your question👍🏿
hi, i have a question about m620 motor. what is the difference between canbus and uart motor?
Good question and sincere apologies for the delay.
I'll be honest, the answer isn't as straight forward.
Please kindly keep a watchful eye as I'll make a dedicated video explaining everything👍🏿
Здравствуйте! А для чего чёрный разъём bafang m620?
The black connector is the negative wire. The red connector is the positive.
Do not switch them and simply plug each connector together with the corresponding colour👍🏿
What’s the highest capacity battery that frame can hold? I see those frames with 48v 17.5ah batteries usually…I would prefer larger
Not too sure whether you've watched my other video. But to answer your question, 52v20amp (1040wh) battery is the biggest for now👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi no I haven’t watched. I’ve came across your channel only 3 times so far
Are you running the 52v 500c display, Eggrider v2 display or something else Neeko? I'm trying to find displays which work with 52v+ batteries which aren't expensive👍🏾
Currently, I'm experimenting with different displays for the E55. Dengfu have asked me to play around with different displays and configurations of the bike. I'll keep 'price per display' in mind, as I play around with them. But so far, the 500c 52v display seems to be the cheapest. But I'm awaiting on a SW09 52v display so I'll update both the channel and the Dengfu Facebook community group👍🏿
Nice👍🏾
I think the different displays you can use on the E55 is worth a video.
I can do that👍🏿
Hi, what is the difference BTW. The UART / CAN version ? I heard some motors have stainless gears others plastic.... which is better?
hi there, it would be difficult to explain the significant differences between CANBus & UART within a simple reply. What i'll do, is make a video which will go into detail outlining the differences and answering any myths which surround the two motor variables. As for the main reduction gear, the newer UART (pre 2020) all use the steel gear. All CANBus M620s use the steel gear as well. Keep a watchful eye on upcoming content👍🏿
Hi Neeko hope you are OK. My name is Richard. I am having a prob with my bike.
It's a Sondors lx 48 v
Bafang m 620 motor
Display dcp 35.
Bike is turning on and showing codes 21& 36. I strip the bike down and found the negative terminal broken. Reconnect and restart the codes are still there. When you try to operate the bike it goes blank on the screen. Battery is fully charge at 53.8 v.
Is there a way to clear the codes.
And where is the GBK business located that you spoke about. If you can help I will appreciate it thanks
Hi Richard, I'm always happy to help and assist.
Please kindly bear with me as I make a quick enquiry (I'm pretty sure Sondors used M620 CANBus).
I'd so, I should be able to point you in the right direction.
I'll get back to you very soon👍🏿
Sondors LX was indeed CANbus.
👍
I’m not sure if you tried the 750w variant. But the m620 has 1000w and a 750w variant. Have you tried the 750w? I would like to know if it’s worth upgrading to the 1000w. My 750w canbus m620 peaks at 1255w with a 48v battery.
Thank you
I haven't tried the 750w M620 for the E55. But you could argue that the E55 is more designed for the 1000w M620 (CANBus and/or UART) atleast. Considering the E55 cam support a 52v battery.
My E22 uses a 750w uart M620, which I can program to make 1000w. But I'll explain this more in an upcoming video when I compare the performance and capabilities of both👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi my question was more, I have a canbus m620 750w, is it worth upgrading to a canbus 1000w m620?
How well does your 750w uart perform compared to the 1000w (no programming), since I can’t program it
Gottya👍🏿.
Essentially, a stock uart M620 is no different compared to a stock firmware CANBus M620. The only real differences between the two is the speed in which data is transferred and relayed between display to motor, speed signal to motor & battery output to motor etc.
The peak output of the M620 however is meaningless, unless you have a battery which can provide the power and range to sustain the additional watts generated.
E.g. the biggest battery the E22 can support is a 52v 15amp battery. Paired with a 1000w M620 (uart or CANBus), the performance would be more noticable compared to a 750w M620 with a 48v 17amp battery, as the efficiency of power is increased and motor's controller (subject to programming) would allow the continuous flow of power without regulating the output to keep within maximum current. However, the range/runtime becomes questionable. Especially if you're using the higher levels of assist ot relying more on throttle than pedal assist.
If you compare this to a 52v 20amp battery (with the same 1000w M620 motor), you don't lose the performance benefits. And increase the range & runtime.
So in other-words. if you have a bigger capacity battery to pair with a 1000w M620, then yes. The performance benefits are noticable. You would find that if you required level 2/3 or 3/5 with a 750w M620 to do a steep climb, this would be levels 1/3 or 2/5 with the 1000w M620.
BUT sustaining the power consistently with a 1000w+ M620 is heavily reliant on a high capacity battery.
Apologies for the lengthy response. If I've still not answered your question (or need more information), please reach out to me on Facebook or Instagram. I can try and demonstrate the difference👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi your response was amazing. My battery is a 48v 21amp. I get exceptional range with the 750w.
What about top speed on flat ground. How does the 750w uart compare to the 1000w (I know gear ratios matter heavily and the battery voltage), but I’m trying to get a vague idea on their differences
An M620 ran at 750w would produce 120NM of torque. Essentially, the motor's maximum current is set to 20amps. Whereas the 1000w M620 (by default), is set to 30amps. Producing 160mm of torque.
Essentially, the real difference is the propulsion and the response time in which the motor delivers the power. Everything becomes further amplified, as the power increases.
As for top speed. Essentially the M620 has always been able to achieve on average 30-35mph (750w or 1000w). The difference is just how quickly you achieve the top end speed. Giving the M620 a mechanical advantage can aid in further increasing the speed. But like most things, it's a balancing act.
E.g. my E22 (now) usee a 36t chainring, paired with a 11-50t cassette with a 750w M620. Using the 48v 840wh battery, it will achieve near 40mph on average in higher levels of assist. But it will require shifting down the cassette gradually for the motor to get the rpm necessary to reach that speed. My E55 (using the same drivetrain and gear ratio) with its 1000w M620 and 52v kilowatt battery, does not need as much mechanical advantage to reach the same speed. Instead the etiquette used for the E22 to achieve 40mph, would allow the E55 to achieve 52.2mph.
But again, it's a balancing act. As this will prematurely wear down the drivetrain more with the 1000w M620 compared to the 750w M620.
Of course, tyre tred /compound, wheelsize, weight etc, would also play a role in achieving top speed & range as well👍🏿
Im told that in order to change the program it needs a programming display, do you know where i could get one from ? i need to change the voltage to 52v and change the wattage slightly on pedal assist 1 as its too much.
Depending on whether you have a UART or CANBus M620, the method varies. With the UART, a simple programming cable (similar to what BBS owners use) and a laptop/desktop with a USB port is required. the programming cable is readily available online (Ebay, Amazon, GBK etc). The programming tool (which allows torque amendment) is necessary and is freely downloadable using a quick Google search. Alternatively, you could buy an Eggrider v2 display. This display enables programming of the UART M620 on the fly without the need of a laptop/desktop.
If you have a CANBus version, you need the BESSt Tool and an account with Bafang to amend the firmware. Each firmware for the M620 alters the behaviour of the motor. However, specific values for torque & maximum current cannot be altered 👍🏿
Thanks for the info, mine is on uart I may go for the egg rider.
Good choice. I too will be using the Eggrider v2 display, just like my E22👍🏿
Where's the wheels and the fork? Come on Neeko, we want to this bike fully assembled🚴🏽👶
Lol. On it😁👍🏿
Hi mate I am hopeing you can help me I have a homemade ebike that has a voilamart conversion kit on now I'm wanting to put a new controler and throttle on and the on I want says it's compatible with uart but I don't know what that is and if it will fit my ebike would you happen to know if it would work cheers man ✌ 👍
Hi there.
I have looked through the Voilamart website and understand that the kit does have provisions to support a throttle. However, their controller and connectors are based on the the old SM Molex connectors. Meaning that swapping the controller would mean swapping out the majority of the system (display, cadence sensor, wire harness/loom, throttle and possibly the hub motor).
UART Protocol is essentially connection style whereby, everything individual component is on a separate relay. Meaning that each component doesn't need to communicate with another to operate. Thus, making UART highly programmable. Manufacturers such as Bafang, CYC, Tong Sheng etc, use this style of protocol to dial in the specifications and performance of the system, depending on the application. But the primary benefit of UART is that the system lends itself to being more 'plug-n-play'. Meaning that you can swap out components and replace them more easily compared to researching whether a particular component is compatible with another system.
Your current controller from voilamart isn't UART compatible. In order to achieve what you're looking for, it would require a complete strip down and replacing of the kit/system.
The good news is that the one thing which you could carry over onto the new system is your current battery. But if you're intention is to run higher power/voltage, then you would need to factor in sourcing a more powerful battery.
I'd be more than happy to assist in terms of both guiding you / assisting you, as I've swapped out complete systems on both mainstream and DIY ebikes before.
Feel free to contact me either through email, Instagram or Facebook and we'll go from their (links to my contact details in the description and on my channel bio)👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi man thanks so much for taking the time out to help me and it definitely has helped me saved me from buying the wrong thing and if it's OK with you would it be OK to pick your brains every now and then cheers mate 👍
Not a problem. Truth be told, you're not the first person to enquire about these type of matters. So I usually assist as much as I can.
Feel free to contact me if you ever need help or advice👍🏿
@@neekodevinchi thanks man that's really nice of you And today you have already saved me £90 because I was going to order it and just hope it was right It's great to know that I have got someone I can ask if I'm stuck with an ebike problem so thanks again mate ✌👍🚴♀️
UART or CANbus are same motor with different controllers.
Their's a bit more to it than that. The torque sensors differ, along with the boot up sequence defined between both respective communication protocols.
It might be worth while shooting a separate video, explaining the differences to avoid confusion and doubt👍🏿
@neekodevinchi people asking are obviously not to educated with the motor! You don't want to confuse them even more!! Easy answer is they are physically the same!
Exactly
price sir