HVAC Full Vacuum Procedure From Start to Finish!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this HVACR Training Video, I go over how to Perform a Fast and Deep Vacuum for Dehydration of an Air Conditioning System. I go over the Pump, Hose, Valve Core Removal Tool, Micron Gauge Setup, and Step By Step Process to Complete this Procedure Effectively. I go over some hiccups along the way and how to deal with them. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
Tools Used In The Video
CPS 4 CFM Vacuum Pump - amzn.to/2DxgPwY
CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge - amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool - amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
SDMN5 Dual Digital Water Column Manometer: amzn.to/2x176im
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⚠️ Disclaimer:
Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided. ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
#hvacr #hvacr #hvactrainingvideos #hvactraining #hvactraining101 #acservice #acservicetech #oil #vacuumpump #2hose #hose #airhandler #heatpump #acunit #airconditioner #vacuum #vacuumprocedure #procedure
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is a link to the JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8
Here is the link to the Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Here is the link to the CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Here is the Link to the Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Here is the Link to the Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Here is the link to the Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
Here is a link for RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
Here is the link to the pack of 25 C&D valve cores- amzn.to/2J1lurm
Here is the link for the C&D Valve Core Wrench, Container, and 3 valve cores- amzn.to/2EVGkps
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
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All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
I'm about to order the tools to pull a vacuum using your list, but I'm confused as to which hoses I need. You have a red and yellow hose in the video, but a red, blue, and yellow hose listed. The yellow hose is not yellow once I click on the link.
This is what I'm ordering:
3)Appion Valve Core Removal Tool- amzn.to/2uYr8WL
1)CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge- amzn.to/2v1nM3O
1)Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose- amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
1)Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" heavy duty hose straight- amzn.to/2umtcod
1)RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
1)www.amazon.com/dp/B00SV8BCB4/?cv_ct_id=amzn1.idea.3TU6QWW7V7OQI&cv_ct_pg=storefront&cv_ct_wn=aip-storefront&ref=exp_cov_acservicetech_lv_dp_vv_d
Should I just buy a manifold gauge set and use it's hoses for a vacuum? I only intend on doing this once.
You may want to put a comment near the start of the video to remind technicians to use a A2L compatible compressor when using A2L and A3 refrigerants.
So if my line set broke and dumped everything out, to recharge do I vacuum the new line set and the unit by leaving the valves open? Or do I close then and vacuum just the new lines before adding the 410
Aaaaaaaaàaaaaaàaaaaalpapalp
I've been watching your videos for some time, and I just now got the set up for this vacuum. It's absolutely incredible. Thank you for taking time to teach us newer techs the right way of doing things.
I've been in the commercial kitchen repair industry for 15 years and this is top notch. Awesome job man. Great tip for using that third valve core removal tool! I'm stealing this idea and subscribing.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ruclips.net/user/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
The gas ballast (if equipped) should be left open until 1200 microns, then closed, thereby bypassing the oil in the pump. Another nice trick to clean your oil and reuse it is to simply run the pump with ballast open, you'll actually see, in about 20 minutes, the oil clear right up if it's milky. The oil industry doesn't like this trick to be known.
We usually only keep the gas ballast open until around 10,000 to 15,000 microns, thanks!
Excellent explanation and refresher for those of us that has been away from HVAC awhile. What you don’t use, you lose! Thanks
Thanks Raymond!
That’s a fact! Left for 10 years, went back to school for industrial maintenance mechanic and did that for 8 years. That was enough. I rather deal with a much safer work environment and much less stress
My Brother has his own small A/C company and I help him when he needs help but he doesn't have time to teach me so these videos are Awesome !!!
Thanks robjoder!
Well have you asked ?? It's a bad doo if somebody doesn't have time for their family .
Our company is in ohio Gutridge if you are interested in an apprenticeship
@@jsmitty4675 I'm near teays valley WV. If this is still avaible message me . I'd be interested
You skipped the entire part where you hooked it up!
I thought I was the only one noticing that.
Excellent, clear explanation. I appreciate the time and effort you are putting into every video. New techs need to subscribe and take notes.
Thanks Jimrika2!
Excellent video, I didn't know you could pull a vacuum this fast. Most of my vacuums took 1-2 hours because I never took out the schrader valves or uses hoses free of valve core depressors. Thanks man, this should save some time.
It really does, check out the recovery and pressure testing videos too other processes, thanks
Old comment I know but wanted to point out that aside from the valve core removal, the key is in those larger hoses and as short as possible. Huge time saver.
Instead of spending all the extra cash on another CRT I just use a yellow jacket 45° all brass ball valve to the micron gauge. Also, I have the same 6 cfm pump and I made my own manifold. 3/8 Tee (NPT) to (2) 3/8 NPT to 3/8 flare. I started using 90° fittings so both flare fittings face forward. Good video.
Got ya, sounds good! Sometimes in the past I found that the yellow jacket ball valve wouldn't hold at deep vacuum so that is why I switched to the valve core removal tool rated at 20 microns. Glad to hear it is working for you!
I've learned so from this channel, I literally have a notebook full of notes just from these videos. Keep up the great work 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks MC!
Good idea on core removers as a valve! Thanks for helping.
No problem!
Great example in real time. Saving that for review later for sure. Thx as always Craig!
Glad it was helpful!
I appreciate your videos,a big help for new techs,
Thank you
Thank you for this fine video. Can't help but learn from it. I had a misfortune on a Service call. Hard lesson. Vacuum hoses didn't have Check-valves. Started the evacuation process and took a lunch. The Vaccum Pump blew the circuit breaker and the line-set sucked the oil out of my vacuum pump and contaminated the whole system. Was a bitch or flush out and recharge (R-22). Didn't make any money that day. Never gonna do that again! Anyway, thanks for the video.
Same vacuum pump we use at tech school. Great video man!
Thanks KuatoLives!
Why u not vacuum at highest low vacuum level like 15 micron?
as far as opening the service valves, if you buy the napa carlyle 3/8 drive 3/16 and 5/16 allen key bits, they will never fail you. the allen key is about 3 inches long and if you use a long handled ratchet, you will always have the proper depth into the service valve and leverage with the ratchet. it helps tremendously opening service valves
Great Resource for HVAC Community! Thanks for the hard work in putting these videos out there!
Thanks Stewart Plumbing!
I bought the Red hose, yellow hose and 1 Appion core remover since I already had 2 and tried this set up today. This works great. I pulled a vacuum down to 363 microns in 10 minutes and I didn't even change the oil on my vacuum pump.
Was it also a new line set?
You opened service valves with wrench to break the vacuum. But I never saw you close them back up. Could you kindly explain!
You don’t close them back up. Opening the service valves is what allows the refrigerant to run through the system.
You should also mention to recover the refrigerent before dtarting the vacume presses...
Lol a couple of people might get some refrigerant burns if they think to skip that part…
If you don't know to do this you probably shouldn't be working on any hvac units
Thanks for showing how to do vacuum test and a leak check
"don't put the cores back in until system is under positive pressure" Seems so obvious now but I never even thought of that, thank you!
I didnt hear him put positive pressure in system. Maybe got distracted.
A DIFfer on my AC HeatPump, it leaked all freon out.
Im going do a vacuum down to check if bad leak or not.
I have no other equipment but rented a vacuum pump. I'm going to order micron gauge if holds vacuum and then do recharge.
I had a method for pulling vacuum...even used it to check for leaks...and later found after isolating the condenser & filling it with Nitrogen, that it would lose 3 pounds over a 24 hour period...I just upgraded to a digital manifold & will purchase 1 more Appion valve core tool & try your set-up :)
Yes I love this setup. I just did a new install today and once set up, it took only 3 minutes to get to 190 microns and the standing vacuum test held 20 microns above that for ten minutes. It works well and usually takes between 3-10 minutes to get the level low enough, thanks
I like putting my micron gauge as far away as possible from the source of vacuum. Also once I verify the vacuum is holding, I do not delay in opening up the service valves and get the system in a positive pressure ASAP, after the vacuum pump is shut off. All rubber hoses leak, so I don’t want the system sitting in a vacuum leaking in air for any extra time
Hey Rod, yeah I don't do the standing vacuum test using any hoses, just the valve core removal tool valves. I don't rush to break the vacuum because I want to see if there are any problems. If not then the vacuum level usually doesn't rise above 30 microns, thanks!
Finally something that explains how you put the valve cores back in without screwing up all your good work.
I've been watching many of your videos and they are by far the most informative. Thank you.
Thanks Lenny C!
We pull down through our gauges with the yellow a massive vac hose. Honestly pumps down relatively quickly, generally under 20 minutes. This looks like way more work lol.
Thank you for sharing such important knowledgment
Glad it was helpful!
great vid thanks for sharing. much more confident on my ac install tomorrow lol
You got this!
I wish every technician would do the job as precise and careful as you showing in your videos! Where I live it's a struggle to find a proper one, every one has a bad attitude "I know it all" type. No torque wrenches, no micron gauge, bad installation, etc.. a disaster.
Oh no! thank you George!
@@acservicetechchannel Yes that unfortunate indeed.
I just installed a new split indoor unit. Operated it for about a week, seems to work OK but it make a repeated hissing sound every 30 sec, like a punctured bike inner tube. The sound comes form the tubing, the total lenght is 7,30m. (23feet) It uses R32 freon with 5/8 and 1/4 pipes. I read that it may be from moisture in the tubing and bad vacuum. Judging from the installation the tech guy did, I assume it could be it. Hope not. Can you please check this video, the sound quality is bad but I would like to hear an extra opinion before I contact the company to send the tech guy for inspection. ruclips.net/video/P7tqW8iDiYA/видео.html
EDIT: at 38 second it start again then fades
Just a quick note about splicing line sets. The old and new lines MUST be the same size. I have fixed two systems where the new system installed had a SMALLER line on the high side than existing line creating an expansion point prior to the A coil. Any changes in high side lines can create an expansion point prior to the A coil making the liquid into a gas prior to the A coil which negates tonnage.
Absolutely. I always figure on replacing those old 3/16 and 1/4" liquid lines, whatever work it takes when putting a proposal together for a replacement, thanks!
Hello there, I the vacuum on the new system as per this video. Than ready to open service valve on suction side. Open the valve cap to do so. I lost the vacuum in the line set. What I'm doing wrong..? Thanks
Amazing video, I wish you had your gauges in view when you opened the valve
Only thing I do different is adding a wireless transducer on the non-micron gauge core removal reference and only pressurize to 20ish psi. Allows for easier core install and lower de minimis.
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this terrific video...it was informative, brief, to the point and easy to understand...
Thanks a lot James!
4th time I’ve watched this. Thanks man I’m an apartment maint tech so I don’t get to do this very often
Awesome, I'm glad the videos are being used!
Happy Sunday,tks ,,God bless, from the good Land Milwaukee WI
May the Lord Bless you too Emil, Thanks!
How about a video showing us what the vacuum pump quills are and how to change them.
Floyd, thank you for letting me know what you would like to see!
man you are a BEAST! I watch all your videos and You are making me a better technician. Ac is my passion but i’m really into ice machines…. Do you have any videos on Commercial isomatics or Mitsubishi’s? Contact dealing with harvesting motors or timing relays. I also have really enjoyed learning walk-in freezers in about the defrost termination any kind of information on that we’d love to see it
Absolutely love this video and also the comments. This is kind of a physics question: When drawing a vacuum from both ports simultaneously, is it possible the vacuum can work against itself? Hope the question makes sense. Thank you.
Love the different service wrench sizes..they have 3
Ha ha, that was the correct size but didn't quite fit well, the smaller two sizes were certainly too small thanks!
So quick. I gotta start doing it this way
Thanks bro for all the time you take to explain great work.
Thanks for your comment JAMDYAC!
Very nice video, good info. Saves time and vacuum life. 👍🏼
Yes absolutely, Thanks Manuel Torres!
Excellent videos you have, i always watch them and they have helped me. Thank you
Thanks Moises!
5/16ths allen key for suction side service valve shut off. I had the multi tool but too many times it just barely hit enough surface to grab. I got a 3/8 drive 5/16 3 inch allen wrench and hook it up to a ratchet.
After you evacuated the system, you opened the service valves. Then you installed the cores. I know installing cores needs to be done under pressure to prevent contaminating the system. When you opened the service valves, was there pressure in the condensing unit which then flowed into the rest of the system?
Yes the units come pre charged for enough refrigerant for up to 15ft of line set depending on the unit
@@anthonybernier9952 Perfect. It's important for viewers to recognize that consideration for system sterility must be paramount, even in the tiniest details.
Congrats. I have never ever achieved below 900Microns, even after changing oil.
I don't know what's wrong with my SuperEvac 6CFM Yellow Jacket pump.
In my channel I uploaded a video about my vacuum pump asking for help to know what's going on with my equipment.
Thanks for uploading this video.
I always use fresh oil on each vacuum. And some systems need the oil changed after 5 min of run time. Apion..they are the best core tools..love them. How about a triple purge? Also I use the t and 3/8 hoses on my REFCO..9cfm.
I don't do a triple evac if the standing vacuum holds at the 200 or 300 micron level. This proves the moisture is gone. Yeah those appion's are awesome, thanks David!
Out of curiosity, why didn’t you tighten the caps down all the way on the vacuum pump.
Thanks a lot for these videos, they are really helping me learn
Thanks Prince!
A true professional.
Thanks James!
..only, if he did'nt use a hammer on that outdoor unit :) (funny) :)
I would point out that most people have not had good luck with those CPS gauges. If you look at the reviews, you'll see that many of them are very inaccurate. I would use caution with those. I had one that wasted many hours for me.
Thank for all your videos they have helped a lot
Glad to help Steve!
Thanks for sharing. I did not see how you connected the micron gauge.
Errol Haughton it’s connected to the valve stem removal tool T
I always use three valve core removal tools. Check out my latest video on two different vacuum setups. I show the hole setup process there, thanks!
Great video thanks a lot helps when you forget lol also helps for the apprentices
Glad to help!
Your the man
Enjoyed the video. Keep up the great work!
Thanks HVAC in SC! You have great work as well!
Excellent video. Thank you for making this informative video.
Thanks Maurice!
So, just to clarify, this was a condenser & partial line-set replacement? Was a little thrown off for a minute. Also, curious about your thoughts of pulling vacuum under 250 microns if that condenser were included in the vac due to oil fractionation? Or is that just rumors? As always, love your videos. I've learned a lot from them over the years.
There is no prob with pulling a deep vacuum even on existing systems with old oil in them. Yes partial line set replacement and new condenser so the refrigerant was held back at the valves, thanks!
thanks for the wonderful video, i have a question at the end that is why don't you put the shredder valve in before you break the refrigerant ? thanks
Had same question. Did you found an answer to that?
Excellent
Love this guys videos
Thanks Timothy!
The question I have to ask is: is this kind of vacuum produced when the machine is fully charged with freon? when making a vacuum on a repair due to a change of compressor it can be done or in that case if it has to be done with the set of pressure gauges on. I appreciate the attention provided .
Great video, thanks for posting. As far as breaking vacuum goes, I understood it to be a bad thing to open the service valves. I was told this is because the vacuum could pull too much oil out of the compressor. Am I operating on bad information? Also, I've found that the cooler you keep the service valves (while brazing), the easier they are to open.
It certainly doesn't hurt to break the vacuum with refrigerant from the bottle. The manufacturer will usually say it is ok to open the service valves to break the vacuum. They tell you which one they would like to open first to avoid any oil lost into the tubes and out of the compressor for the initial startup, thanks!
Thank you . Like being on the job with you .
Thanks Lent Builders Inc!
So the refrigerant is pumped down into the condenser and the valves front seated and once you complete the vacuum you back seat the valves allowing the refrigerant to flow back through both the suction line and the liquid line? Thanks for these videos, they help a lot.
Yes except with these types of valves don't force them upwards when they are all the way up like a backseat position on a three position service valves. Check out the videos on service valves, thanks!
God bleesig you
God Bless
I noticed you stopped the pump at 18microns. Any reason? Where should we stop the pump?
200 to 300 microns is a good point. Make sure it doesn't rise much during the standing vacuum test while the pump is off and certainly not above 500 microns, thanks!
It seems that i always hold my breath when removing cores. It can be a nightmare when it doesnt cooperate with u.
Try not attaching the valve core removal tool on super tight but just enough to hold the pressure. This way the rubber grommet doesn't get squished and stop the valve core from coming out. Also check this video out, thanks- ruclips.net/video/vmtlfcEr0is/видео.html
Great explanation!!
In your video you use a red and yellow hose. Your parts list has a red and blue hose. Is the blue hose the same as the Yellow one in the video? You also list a yellow jacket 1/4" hose. When I clicked on it it's a black hose? I'm just trying to get all of this stuff so I can work on my air cond.
May I ask what is the purpose of opening the gas valve and close it after machine started? Can the gas valve be left open? What is its purpose anyway? Tks
great video, great job on explaining the whole process.
Thanks Felipe!
At 1:30 why you said you want to remove the valve cores of Appion 's side ports ? I believed you need just ONE ,the one you will attach the 3rd appion and vacuum gauge. Why don't you just leave the other 2 in, they will help to protect the system sealed no leak while you vacuuming it ?
They certainly can be left in. I use those 3 for my vacuum and recovery setups. In my recovery setup, I use one tool as a tee so I just find it easy enough to remove all three valve cores and never have any problem with 100 to 300 micron vacuums, thanks!
Impressive to get a vacuum that fast with hoses. I had bad luck and went with a JB DV-29 kit. This solved my problem. Anyhow, quick question: Why only 10 mins? I decided to bite the bullet and go with Mitisubishi's recommendation of triple evacuation and vacuum to 500 microns or below for 60 minutes. It takes more time, but I know if there's a failure it's not because of me!
It is because the standing vacuum test proves that there is not moisture frozen and thawing out since it won't move. 5-10 minutes for the vacuum to get to a low enough micron level 100-300 so below 500 and then the 10 minute vacuum test to verify it isn't rising. It is kind of funny and a little crazy that even manufacturers don't seem to understand this so we have these mundane rules people follow. I find the confusion starts off when young techs take the EPA608 and they don't understand the water freezing and thawing theory. If there were ever a question, then I tell people just run a heat load on the coil while vacuuming such as the blower at the evap, thanks Gene!
Manufacturers Covering their own ass
This was an informative video. Love how you made It easy to understand.
Thanks a lot John!
@@acservicetechchannel
Hi there. Is it normal when pulling vacuum. You turn the vacuum off and the vacuum doesnt hold the pressure??
Well done - thanks!
You should use some RLS Press Fittings instead of brazing.. 10 second press vs minutes of brazing
thank you for this good explanation video!! I was wondering, after you remove the core and after you vacuum the system, how do you add refrigerant while the core removal tool connected to the compressor and while the schrader is removed? also, how would you purge the hoses while using the core removal tool?
Why did you release the refrigerant by opening the low side first ?? My helper did it once and it made a loud hissing sound like something is leaking. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
I been scared of purging from the valve core removal as once I had it pop off and had to valve the quickly off.
Confused here. Do you pull a vacuum with the refrigerant in the system?
No, all the refrigerant was in the condenser, and the service valves were closed. He was pulling a vaccum through the lineset and through the indoor coil. When he opened up the service valves all the refrigerant was released in to the linset and indoor coil. Hope this helped!
so you just pumped down the refrigerant into the receiver and then released it into the vacuum?
Thanks for sharing this wonderful video!
Thanks a lot William!
Very good instruction. Could this process be done with only 1 valve core removal tool and 1 hose ?
After pulling down the system in a vacuum, why didnt you charge the linset for added length? You said 65 ft line... your gonna be under charged by opening those valves. Unless you have another video continuing this one where you add refrigeration on the fly while it's running. Most condensing units have 15ft of linset added in the charge. Anything over that you have to add. 65ft-15ft = 50ft. 50ft x .6 (that's .6 oz per foot)= 30oz. 16 oz in a pound so 1 lbs 14oz needs to be added.
Hey Jedd, I checked and added the charge using the Subcooling method since it was 80 degrees and had a TXV. If I was going to weigh the charge using the total weight method, the R-410A per foot would be .54oz for the 3/8" liquid and .114oz for the 3/4 vapor line. I am rebuilding the acservicetech.com website to include a bunch of resources and one will be a weight chart for all vapor line sizes for commonly used refrigerants. Yes this one was Bryant/Carrier/Payne so it came with 15' precharge, thanks!
I really enjoy your videos, lots of info, there lots of people that dont do our trade with care and it's good too see a fellow HVAC technician doing good work.
I have a question. I am new in the field and I am servicing a system after somebody cut the lines to steal the condenser but couldn't leave with. So there is no refrigerant left in the condenser. After brazing the lines back how to proper vacuum the system before adding refrigerant. It's a R22 system. Thanks for any advice.
You would pressure test for leaks first. You would perform a vacuum like this and then weigh liquid refrigerant into the high side like this. Then you would check the charge with superheat or subcooling accordingly, thanks- ruclips.net/video/ncgLDYrvN6w/видео.html
Ok just 1 thing water doesnt expand when melting. Water is one of the few compounds that expands when frozen or in a solid state. Ice to water would be condensing, water to ice would be expanding
QUESTION,,how come you didn't use nitrogen to clear the line set ?
What kind of hoses do you use for Vacuum pump ? and where do you buy them from? thank you
Links to the tools used are in the youtube video description section, thanks!
Best videos out there,,,,I have a question what side you open 1st when you install a condenser..low side or high side?and do you need to break vacuum? Or can I open valves with unit in vacuum?
Great video.
Thanks great video
Thanks Darren!
Great video thx...
Glad you enjoyed it
Ok first off great video. But I have a question, it's a 60-65 ft lineset and the outdoor comes orecharged for 15 ft of lineset so 45-50 ft * .6 Oz per foot needed how did you add the 27-30ish ounces of 410?
Am I to understand that the two vertical core valves are closed during these procedures eliminating the compressor? In other words, just the tubing from the valves thru to the evaporating coil are tested?
Dear how about if the system has capillary tubes and the superheat is very high and the sub cooling is normal within manufacturer range and the ac isn’t cooling the room properly. should I replace the filter drier and capillary tubes . I am not a technician and I just want to diagnose the issue .thank you