Whoever's reading this, i pray that whatever you're going through gets better and whatever you're struggling with or worrying about is going to be fine and that everyone has a fantastic day! Amen
You are a great teacher. I just bought your bundle with the book, reference cards, and workbook. It is a tremendously easy read! I'm 4 months into my HVAC career and your content is helping me a lot. Thank you!
@@diyhvacguy It's a highly skilled trade 4 sure! Ud think it would pay twice what it does 4 an experienced tech tho. I've always thought techs that keep educating themselves do not make what they r worth. 🤔
Craig, that's a great procedure you have, it was also the procedure I used. I do disagree with using 3/8" hoses though since you're only as big as your smallest system opening; in this case the opening the valve core screws into. In addition, I multi-tasked(such as installing or reconnecting the wiring whip or I'd install the new TT wiring) while the vac pump was running, Also, I used Yellow Jacket flexible stainless steel hoses(you could also use 1/4 " flared copper tubing) to assure no air leakage through the charging hoses. I was taught that all charging hoses leak very, very slowly, but nevertheless they do leak. Take a charging hose, pressurize it with nitrogen, and hold it under water and observe carefully. You should see an air bubble every now and then. I know that you're not pressure testing with nitrogen through the hoses, so it shouldn't matter; however, my thinking is that it might prevent you from pulling a deep vacuum. Just my thoughts. Great video as always. Thank you so much for taking the rookies under you're wing. Rick
A trick I learned a while back is to open the king valve and get about 50psi in the lineset then close it back. THEN, put your valve stems back in and they will not have nearly the amount of resistance as a full system. Then after the stems are in, open the king valves all the way 👍🏽
Sir great info but the suction side valve core removal valve tool was in the closed position during the final leak check. No doubt the check would have not been any different if open.
4:16 You’ve got some fast bionic strength there! Awesome video, I really learned some things that I didn’t know. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
This method is great. However, this shouldn’t be your only option. You need to have a set of 4 port gauges. You WILL run into systems where this isn’t a option. The design of some systems do not have clearance for these core removal tool. If they do have the clearance, this is the fastest method. Great videos on this channel!
I’ve been doing this trade almost 16 years and I’ve decided to stop pulling through my digital manifold. I’ve got everything I need for a vacuum set up with no manifold. The only thing I cannot find is that 1/4”female x 1/4” female adapter you have for the hilmor micron gauge where on earth can I find one? the supply houses do not have them cannot find them anywhere on the Internet, could you possibly share a link?
I had taught that you first open the liquid line and after that the suction line bc if you open the suction line first you let liquid refrigerant into the suction line and may create problem starting the compressor. I watched you open the suction line first. Can you please or anybody else clarify me that. Good video. God bless you!!
That system had all the refrigerant locked inside the condenser coil. All the condensing units come pre-charged at the factory. When he opened the suction valve he actually let the refrigerant escape into the line set and not the other way around.
Hi , Craig I have doing everything you did the only thing I found out I used a field piece micro gauge. After ruin the vacuum for more than 35 minutes, close the app ions valve on bothe refrigerant lines, and left the micro gauge valve open ; the micro gauge go up very quickly rises above 800 and more fro 200 microns, I do not know what is the problem
Great video but you forgot to put the service panel of the unit against the wall so close you can't service it because the company that put that in before you had no idea what they were doing
No wrong.liquid makes the comp oil leak into the line set..suction side is better because the reversing valve is before..versus liquid is straight from compressor
If it was an existing system and you pulled the vacuum without changing out the filter drier, would you see the raise and plateau you were talking about? Seemed like I was boiling off water out of an old filter drier. I did not have the right one and re-used the old one.
What was the purpose of adding the second valve core remover to the other on the suction line? Can you just put the micron gauge right on the tool hooked up to the line set?
@@anthonyl94 i forgot my valve the other day, i did put some pressure into the gauge but I stopped when it didnt show any numbers, it was brand new, i hope i didnt destroy it :(
@@SpecialKthx yikes! I hope it didn’t fry it! Thankfully I haven’t don’t this yet. I usually use my manifold and I have the cps micron gauge on the middle port between my manifold and the middle hose. Seems to work great :)
Hi Craig, what were the PT# for the Hilmor Valve Core Removal tools? The ones listed as used for the video are Apion VCTs. Just interested in comparing the two.
You would not be able to tell if there is a leak in the condenser coil without a leak detector. You could pressure test the line set and the evaporator coil with the service valves closed and the refrigerant pumped into condenser. You would have to vacuum it down again before releasing the refrigerant
Hello, I am following you from Turkey. I'm watching with joy. I have a question. After 08:16 the pressure rises. Doesn't that mean it's a leak? Or is it normal for it to go from around 180 microns to around 214? Why did it rise so high?
Yes however he mentions Negative pressure. Or vacuum. If the system was pressurized, and had a leak, you are correct. Losing pressure is an indication.
@@mazarat4768 there is no leakage in the system. The negative pressure which he is measuring in Microns, increased such an insignificant amount in the amount of time that the system can be considered sealed. If it were to raise by the the hundreds of Microns, in the same amount of time, that would indicate a leak. The pressure went higher in the video very little, likely because of the equalization of the various pressures in the components, parts, tubes ect... If you had a water faucet that leaked one single drop of water every 10years, you could pretty much say it does not leak. If the faucet dripped water every 10 seconds, you would say it has a leak. These acceptable 'losses' are common in every industry. The difference is how relevant they are to the system and what can be deemed acceptable.
A guy just installed a new ac unit in my house and he didn’t use a vacuum pump , he said if the new unit is pre charged it’s not necessary to use a vacuum pump, is that true ?
I was doing my own installs on my rentals till one day I realized that I didn't want to do this particular install due to such a tiny attic ...I mean the blower/EVAP box might have had 3 inches of headroom TOPS. So I paid this company to come out and do the install. Get this...... As soon as they left ...the system quit cooling even though it was great when they installed it. So I pulled a vacuum and it held for almost 2 hours ..... I filled it back up and it cooled for 20 or 30 minutes and went warm. I pulled a vacuum again ...let it sit for 4 or 5 hours. I could not figure out what was going on. I called a buddy of mine and he figured it out. The clown installer did not use a wet rag on the EVAP side while braizing (however you spell it) .....since its a copper to aluminum EVAP joint.... apparently they use a special process and you can't get it hot enough to melt so.......ruined the coil. Luckily I ordered a new one and finished the job.
It can definitely be done the old school way, it might take an hour or two to pull a vacuum. This way is a lot quicker for sure but requires having a special pump, core removers, etc etc
This is just a faster way, mostly done on old units to pull down vacuum faster as most old units already have contaminants and are harder to pull vacuum down to 500 microns.. Not really necessary for newly installed units but to each its own. I do it his way all the time though, just a good habit if you have the tools.
Wow, you didn’t test your fit. Meaning pump and hoses to verify your equipment is capable of pulling below 50 microns. Failed to show nitro test with temp and pressure time waits test. Releasing nitro charge. Should I go on.
Whoever's reading this, i pray that whatever you're going through gets better and whatever you're struggling with or worrying about is going to be fine and that everyone has a fantastic day! Amen
You are a great teacher. I just bought your bundle with the book, reference cards, and workbook. It is a tremendously easy read! I'm 4 months into my HVAC career and your content is helping me a lot. Thank you!
I’m four months in as well hope all is going well
@@DomReacts right on! Stick with it, it’s a great trade! I’ve been doing hvac for 10 years now. Cheers
I got his book a while back. Need to sit down and read it through. Check out our channel for more hvac tips and techniques! Cheers
Where can I find that Tee he connects his hoses to on the pump?
@@diyhvacguy It's a highly skilled trade 4 sure! Ud think it would pay twice what it does 4 an experienced tech tho. I've always thought techs that keep educating themselves do not make what they r worth. 🤔
Craig, that's a great procedure you have, it was also the procedure I used. I do disagree with using 3/8" hoses though since you're only as big as your smallest system opening; in this case the opening the valve core screws into. In addition, I multi-tasked(such as installing or reconnecting the wiring whip or I'd install the new TT wiring) while the vac pump was running, Also, I used Yellow Jacket flexible stainless steel hoses(you could also use 1/4 " flared copper tubing) to assure no air leakage through the charging hoses. I was taught that all charging hoses leak very, very slowly, but nevertheless they do leak. Take a charging hose, pressurize it with nitrogen, and hold it under water and observe carefully. You should see an air bubble every now and then. I know that you're not pressure testing with nitrogen through the hoses, so it shouldn't matter; however, my thinking is that it might prevent you from pulling a deep vacuum. Just my thoughts. Great video as always. Thank you so much for taking the rookies under you're wing.
Rick
A trick I learned a while back is to open the king valve and get about 50psi in the lineset then close it back. THEN, put your valve stems back in and they will not have nearly the amount of resistance as a full system. Then after the stems are in, open the king valves all the way 👍🏽
Release it by the suction line?
Yeah, If the pressure is too high you can't get the valve stem in.
Then the unclean air gets trapped in your new r410a
Sir great info but the suction side valve core removal valve tool was in the closed position during the final leak check. No doubt the check would have not been any different if open.
I was going to ask the same thing, at 12:27 the valve was in a closed position.
@@tinysand3517 great observations
Even in closed position the micron gauge is open to the system
Thanks so much Mr Graig for that best explanation.this Godfrey from Uganda currently am in Mogadishu at work.
Hey Man, honestly, thank you so much for all your time and work … Thank you so much for teaching us. GOD BLESS YOU ALL
You are an amazing instructor! Thanks for the help!
Hey you forgot to open the valve on the valve core removal tool when leak checking the valve core on the suction side
At first yes, then you can see he did
The instructor did that on purpose for the experience viewers to comment on his videos.
Noticed that too but the real ones know what he meant to do 💯
Its okay i mean the leak hes trying to prevent or cetch rarely happens
Good stuff. Time is money 💰
Yes time is money so don't do half of this.
Great processing for the vacuum
12:41 leaking test, should open the valve first? great video!
4:16 You’ve got some fast bionic strength there! Awesome video, I really learned some things that I didn’t know. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
very nice Craig!!! thank you man for sharing love all your videos.
Excellent video! Thanks!
This method is great. However, this shouldn’t be your only option. You need to have a set of 4 port gauges. You WILL run into systems where this isn’t a option. The design of some systems do not have clearance for these core removal tool. If they do have the clearance, this is the fastest method. Great videos on this channel!
Thanks!
For sure. I can't understand why manufacturers can't move the king valves. There's all kinds of room
Thank you so much, appreciate and enjoyed your videos.
Amazing Video!
This is for a new install how about an existing system do you shut the king valves or keep them open to pull a vacumme
excellent information I really appreciate
“Have the least connections as possible.” lol
I’ve been doing this trade almost 16 years and I’ve decided to stop pulling through my digital manifold. I’ve got everything I need for a vacuum set up with no manifold. The only thing I cannot find is that 1/4”female x 1/4” female adapter you have for the hilmor micron gauge where on earth can I find one? the supply houses do not have them cannot find them anywhere on the Internet, could you possibly share a link?
I had taught that you first open the liquid line and after that the suction line bc if you open the suction line first you let liquid refrigerant into the suction line and may create problem starting the compressor. I watched you open the suction line first. Can you please or anybody else clarify me that.
Good video. God bless you!!
That system had all the refrigerant locked inside the condenser coil. All the condensing units come pre-charged at the factory. When he opened the suction valve he actually let the refrigerant escape into the line set and not the other way around.
Its wrong its the other way..suction line before the king valve is the reversing valve while liquid is straight out of the compressor oil
Great presentation 👌
Hi , Craig I have doing everything you did the only thing I found out I used a field piece micro gauge. After ruin the vacuum for more than 35 minutes, close the app ions valve on bothe refrigerant lines, and left the micro gauge valve open ; the micro gauge go up very quickly rises above 800 and more fro 200 microns, I do not know what is the problem
What is this last step with service valves doing. Is this where the refrigerant is flowing into the coils. I do not understand that step.
Thanks
My coach, health your hand and your effor. İt is has been very nice an work
Hi i'm wondering if it normally takes you so quick to pull a vacuum?
For me it normally takes between 15 and 30 minutes 🤥
Great job . Thank you .
tre bel video tre eksplisit bon travay
Amazing vid, amazing vids as always
pompa de vacuum 2.5 cfm does it remove air from the large air conditioner?
Great video but you forgot to put the service panel of the unit against the wall so close you can't service it because the company that put that in before you had no idea what they were doing
😂
Good one 😂 😂
Question, I thought you had to open up liquid line first, to avoid compressor slugging? Thank you. Great video. 👍
No wrong.liquid makes the comp oil leak into the line set..suction side is better because the reversing valve is before..versus liquid is straight from compressor
If it was an existing system and you pulled the vacuum without changing out the filter drier, would you see the raise and plateau you were talking about? Seemed like I was boiling off water out of an old filter drier. I did not have the right one and re-used the old one.
so now the navac pumps w the built in micron gauges aren't accurate ?? should a separate cps micron gauge be used at the valves on a crt ??
Hi sir i need handbooks in Refrigeration pls included electrical diagram of walk in chiller & airconditioning how can i get? Ty
What was the purpose of adding the second valve core remover to the other on the suction line? Can you just put the micron gauge right on the tool hooked up to the line set?
So when you go to let the charge go you can close the second ball valve and you dont put positive pressure or oil on the micron gauge.
@@anthonyl94 i forgot my valve the other day, i did put some pressure into the gauge but I stopped when it didnt show any numbers, it was brand new, i hope i didnt destroy it :(
@@SpecialKthx yikes! I hope it didn’t fry it! Thankfully I haven’t don’t this yet. I usually use my manifold and I have the cps micron gauge on the middle port between my manifold and the middle hose. Seems to work great :)
Good job.
Hi Craig, what were the PT# for the Hilmor Valve Core Removal tools? The ones listed as used for the video are Apion VCTs. Just interested in comparing the two.
Thanks for sharing.
Our pleasure!
Did you forget to open the suction line cord tool valve for the leak test? Or did see it wrong and the valve was open and there was no leak.,
Hello a question which is better hilmor or appion core valve?
Excellent!
Do you have a trubleshoot tuturial for ebm paps trane blower motor
Man, hope this guy was in Atlanta. Does anyone know a good A/C school around the ATL area? Greatly appreciated
On an older system if you draw down the freon and front seat the valves how do you know there is no air in the system from a leak?
You would not be able to tell if there is a leak in the condenser coil without a leak detector. You could pressure test the line set and the evaporator coil with the service valves closed and the refrigerant pumped into condenser. You would have to vacuum it down again before releasing the refrigerant
bon travay
Hello, I am following you from Turkey. I'm watching with joy. I have a question. After 08:16 the pressure rises. Doesn't that mean it's a leak? Or is it normal for it to go from around 180 microns to around 214? Why did it rise so high?
Yes however he mentions Negative pressure. Or vacuum.
If the system was pressurized, and had a leak, you are correct. Losing pressure is an indication.
@@Geminiappleboy Then there is no leakage in this system?
@@mazarat4768 there is no leakage in the system.
The negative pressure which he is measuring in Microns, increased such an insignificant amount in the amount of time that the system can be considered sealed.
If it were to raise by the the hundreds of Microns, in the same amount of time, that would indicate a leak.
The pressure went higher in the video very little, likely because of the equalization of the various pressures in the components, parts, tubes ect...
If you had a water faucet that leaked one single drop of water every 10years, you could pretty much say it does not leak.
If the faucet dripped water every 10 seconds, you would say it has a leak.
These acceptable 'losses' are common in every industry. The difference is how relevant they are to the system and what can be deemed acceptable.
A guy just installed a new ac unit in my house and he didn’t use a vacuum pump , he said if the new unit is pre charged it’s not necessary to use a vacuum pump, is that true ?
lol
My service manager told us do nitrogen break when pulling vacuum
Good 👍 👍 👍
Where is the capacity of the vacuum pump ??
One connection as long enough they have to pile on top of one another
perfect
I was doing my own installs on my rentals till one day I realized that I didn't want to do this particular install due to such a tiny attic ...I mean the blower/EVAP box might have had 3 inches of headroom TOPS. So I paid this company to come out and do the install. Get this...... As soon as they left ...the system quit cooling even though it was great when they installed it. So I pulled a vacuum and it held for almost 2 hours ..... I filled it back up and it cooled for 20 or 30 minutes and went warm. I pulled a vacuum again ...let it sit for 4 or 5 hours. I could not figure out what was going on.
I called a buddy of mine and he figured it out.
The clown installer did not use a wet rag on the EVAP side while braizing (however you spell it) .....since its a copper to aluminum EVAP joint.... apparently they use a special process and you can't get it hot enough to melt so.......ruined the coil.
Luckily I ordered a new one and finished the job.
Only clownish thing the guy did was braze way to long...maybe he was a crappy brazer...I have never over heated that joint !
Why can’t you just remove the vac guage before you release the gas. So you don’t need that second vcrt.
Why hilmor ?
Open the valve
carrier ac error code E9
How to solve the problem?pls help me
more like 27
👍🤙🤘
✨💯✨🖖
What was the purpose in half of all this.. a bunch of not necessary
what was the purpose of this useless comment
It's a proper way to do it then it's an half ass way to do it. Guess you like to do half ass work. 😏
The purpose is to guide new techs with precision making details steps. Brouhaha. Once we know what we are doing, we’ll do our own.
It can definitely be done the old school way, it might take an hour or two to pull a vacuum. This way is a lot quicker for sure but requires having a special pump, core removers, etc etc
This is just a faster way, mostly done on old units to pull down vacuum faster as most old units already have contaminants and are harder to pull vacuum down to 500 microns.. Not really necessary for newly installed units but to each its own. I do it his way all the time though, just a good habit if you have the tools.
Wow, you didn’t test your fit. Meaning pump and hoses to verify your equipment is capable of pulling below 50 microns. Failed to show nitro test with temp and pressure time waits test. Releasing nitro charge. Should I go on.
The title is vacuum pump set up. I saw the set up.