40 VACUUM PROCEDURE TIPS for HVAC Techs! Avoid Frustration and Save Time!
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- Опубликовано: 21 апр 2022
- In this HVAC Training Video, I Explain 40 Vacuum Method Tips that You Should Know Before Installing an Air Conditioner, Heat Pump, or Refrigeration Unit. This is an HVACR Technician Training Video Meant to Take the Frustration and Time Consumption Out of the Process! Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
Tools Used In The Video
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Appion Valve Core Removal Tool: amzn.to/3X4hnRj
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Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set - amzn.to/2aenwTq
Refrigerant hoses with valves - amzn.to/2aBumVI
JB Vacuum Pump Oil - amzn.to/2mGrlXy
JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump - amzn.to/2nqbvo8
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Information in this video is intended for educational purposes only. Any work related to the topics in this video should be performed by licensed technicians or by apprentices under the supervision of licensed technicians. AC Service Tech LLC is not responsible for any possible damages or injuries caused by the use or misuse of any information provided.
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Perfect video, currently in school for hvac in Wisconsin and my class right now are recovery, deep vacuum and charge, and then triple Evac. Love this channel good luck to everyone one
So awesome! Make sure that your classmates know of our channel!!! Thanks!
Thx so much!
Awesome video! Has helped us as Newbies to AC identify a couple of errors. Thanks!
As always so accurate Sir. Since I bought your books I've learned a lot from you and appreciate your patience of explaining.
You're the best.
May I add another tip use magnetic tool for holding open any solenoid valves.
This is particularly true on refrigeration systems.
This from experience of 40+ years in the field.
Thank You for your videos they remind me and keep me up to date.
Ice machines for sure
Yes. You need that liquid line solenoid open for proper recovery and evacuation. I do both hvac and refrigeration. That was one thing that tripped me up when I started doing refrigeration and ice machines. Sometimes if I'm in a situation where I can't get to the solenoid (tight space ice machine) I'll disconnect the control wire to the compressor contactor and keep the system energized to keep the solenoid open.
@@P0nderProductions smarty pants
As always, great job. Your are like the diesel tech Ron of the hvac world. I don’t miss a video you post, always great stuff!!!!
Rest in peace, diesel tech Ron. He was similarly helpful.
Great video. It justified a few techniques I do! Thank you!
Rock solid video !!!!! Your knowledge of hvac trade is off the charts . I really enjoy your videos they are great reference tools .
David, thank you very much for your encouragement!!!
Your lessons are very professional indeed.
Amazing, more videos like this please, the sequence of tips for any element of the job is super helpful. Thank you for sharing👌
Thank you so much! Thanks for your encouragement!
Thanks for the consistent quality of content. Have a good weekend
So encouraging, thanks!
Thank you explained it very well 😊
Thank you professor great work
I got my EPA 608 for DIY purposes. I had problems pulling a vacuum on the last few mini-splits I installed. My practical knowledge has been a bit light. This was extremely informative and I'm now pretty sure where I went wrong. Thanks.
Thanks for great teaching like always
So glad it helps!!!
Great video! Thanks!
Thank you so much about your tips experience
Very good information thanks
Great Video!
Thanks for the great video!
I hooked up two vacuum pumps in the same system. Truly it is a double times and I did vacuumed much faster. Thank you so much!!!
Yes. On any job where 2 techs show up, get the vacuum pump from both vans. But look out! On cool days, ice forms way easier with 2.
Awesome video> Thanks a ton!!
thank you for your work sir, very nice work
Compre tu libro 📚 y simplemente genial ! Gracias
Great job CRAIG.
You’re awesome bro!
Beautiful thanks
Perfect 👍 thanks
Excellent n very informative video n have a Good Day n keep them coming 👍
All great tips but TIP #35 took my attention by far. This is (most probably) is the reason why the PROS don't do a triple vacuum. Thanks Craig!
You got it! Exactly!
That's one Crazy MIC..... Great Tips
Awesome Tips 🦾😎
A good video to forward and pass around 👍
That would be awesome and thanks for your multiple comments on each of the platforms! I notice!!!! Thanks a lot! It is encouraging!
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it Danny!
Squoshed... Did I spell that right?
Great job, thank you very much. This all would have helped me when I first started. I had lots of problems in this area.
Perfect video!!
Thank you!
Tip 32 don’t use vac gauge as pressure test, YES, a test at negative 15psi isn’t much of a test.
Another tip “Keep the sensor upright, to avoid contamination” (Found in bold lettering on the Yellow Jacket vac gauge. )
Another: make up copper lines rather than rubber hoses, to get a super low vacuum
This will be a long one... Ive never seen 500 microns on anything so far. I put my BlueVac Pro with Nylog on the 1/4” connection to test the pumps ability / oil. It pulled down to about 70 microns. Then I hooked up a 1/4” X 1/4” hose with Nylog to an empty recovery container. After 15 minutes it stopped at about 1800 microns. I switched to a new Appion 3/8” (1/2” hose) X 1/4” connector to the tank and it pegged out at about 780 microns after 15 minutes. I have the Ritchie tower on my pump that has two 3/8”taps and one 1/4” tap on the top and a ball valve. These are new and not worn out, and specificaly designed for vacuum. Now physics tells me that pressure goes from higher to lower, always. If I register 70 microns on the pump, physics tells me that the 780 microns I got with the larger vacuum hose was just overcoming an ongoing leak (possibly ) in the recovery tank? How would I go about checking the tank for a leak? R22 and Nitrogen?
Great. Very informative. Q. Where can I purchase a 1-2' vacuum rated hose from?
Wow very nice video step by step
Thanks!!!
The best refrigeration technician of the whole internet.
GOD BLESS AMERICA !
Agree
Not sure about that but we certainly try very hard to teach what we know to help others! Thank you so much!
@@acservicetechchannel "Not sure about that" .. Im sure about that . GOD BLESS YOU AND GOD BLESS AMERICA . *KEEP* AMERICA GREAT 🇺🇸👍
nice hair cut at tip 12!
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Currently going to school for hvac and we use the tree on vacuum pump for micron gauge. Ill have to show him this video
Grazie 🙏
Love it! There's so much variation in vacuum decay test out there! If you ask Google it says "vacuum shall not rise above 1500 microns in 15 minutes" is there an allowance for rise in a 10 minute test? Or does it have to stay under 200microns?
Great vid this, thanks! If i have moisture in my hoses, would this show as pressure rise when vacuuming down a system? Im certain there are no leaks on my install, hoses, manifold all in good condition but as soon as i isolate the pump, the vac gauge starts to rise rapidly... Any ideas???
Awesome videos! Question on tip 36. I didn't have access to a nitrogen bottle, so went to vaccuum directly on a 12k btu 2-stage compressor minisplit. Temperature outside was 20F. I had to vaccum twice because first time it was decaying 50 microns per 30 minutes from 300 microns initally. Second time it started at 100 microns and went to 160 in 1h, maybe raising very slowly, but seemd good enough. I opened the service valve and gas started leaking from it at 1/4 of a turn, then tried to close it and was still leaking. This lasted like 10s then it stopped. Could it be the valve was frozen, then it lubricated itself and finally sealed properly? It had enough gas for 25ft of lines and mine were cut to 12ft, so should be good I guess. The mini split has been running really well since then producing over 120F in 20F weather. Again, thanks so much for all the detailed videos! Will try to understand your superheat explanations to measure if all is working well.
Good day Craig, thank you for the video I found lots of great information in it. I did have two questions for you. First where did you get and what do you call the black hangers for you hoses. I am talking about the black fitting attached to your vacuum hoses that the hoses threads onto and appear to hang from? Second question, when finishing a repair on a dry system (all refrigerant reclaimed prior to work,) using a two hose setup directly to a vacuum pump with 3 valve core removal tools as you have shown, how do I charge the system without losing vacuum?
With system in vacuum and ball valve(s) closed, remove vacuum hose(s), replace them with your charging hose(s). Open manifold to allow refrigerant to enter hose(s) up to closed ball valve(s). Crack charging hose(s) just long enough to see refrigerant (to purge any non condensibles). Open ball vavle(s) to charge sysem. Close ball valves. When replacing schrader core(s) "burp" the refrigerant at hose end of core removel tool while inserting schrader core(s).
Is it not a more accurate micron reading if you were to put the gauge on the liquid side, therefore its reading the level of pressure furthest from the vacuum on the suction line
Craig, let's say its a 3 head mini system with a total of 130' of line, we did a 600 psi nitrogen test, say zero sign of leaks on the 12 connections & then we proceed to vac down. 1/2" appion hose on a 10 CFM pump, valve core removed and we perform a 1.5 hr vacc and get it down to 250 microns. After the 15 minute decay it rises up to 370 and hangs out around there- would you call it good or would you let the vacc run a bit longer? Thank you!! We have always been told under 500 is good to go.....
Hey. On a multi zone with the master valves. Can I hook my hose to it. Or just to the service ports.
Install your vacuum gauge vertically, pointing up. This will limit, if not prevent the oil from entering the gauge and contaminating the sensor. I do keep a small bottle of rubbing alcohol in my van. Also a small plastic syringe.
( I do not know Bayer from aspirin please excuse total unawareness) The truly highly rated school Videos on you tube. Seem. To Deep /clean/pressure test. At same points. Actually looks like exact same process. But, With Nitric oxide tank at one High level psi.Find leak(s) then while Fix leaks, Braise running .005 Noxide through area being Braised, durning process. Question. Is this procedure an alternative to what you present. Or an unnecessary , complicated, mostly EXPERIENCE procedure. You seem to help people keep an Eye on the Cost. Any helpful knowledge sincerely appreciated. Somebody just vandalized my HVAC. Whoooopi, I am a HVAC. And yes I spite of the obvious “I first called a professional “ But PERFER to keep on a pleasant tone. Separate the evil from the evil people do! Thank you all. What a great, Highly intelligent level profession. Wo da a Eva dunk it! Thanks
Hey question are the little hoses vacuum rated or are the black hoses the only ones vacuum rated
Question about tip 16 , if I were to add a core depressor insides of a 3rd valve core removal tool wouldn’t it do the same thing ? 10:14
Tip 11, Pre hair cut. Tip 12 Post hair cut. Lol All good stuff here. Been doing this stuff here and there for over 20 years and Im still fine tuning my craft with this guys help.
Ha! Good spotting! 😄
It's really interesting to see helpful tips on how to setup vaccuming system . Can you make video which shows the procedure for compressor replacement considering scroll and rotary type procedure
What about recips and aemihermetics,,?
Semi hermetics
Yes semi hermetic rotary and scroll compressor
Does the vacuum pump exhaust cap need to be on or off while pump is running?
CPS VG200 manual states its maximum working pressure is 600 PSIG with a burst pressure of 3000 psig. It also states that it's has a thermistor sensor which cannot be damaged from exposure to positive pressure or oil mist. No need for the second valve core tool.
Tip#14 question:
Would having the micron gauge on the liquid line not give you a true reading?
For example, I’ve been using my two valve core removal tool set up with the micron gauge on the liquid side. 3/8-1/4 hoses. I’ve triple vacuum the systems breaking the vacuum with nitrogen. After I’ve reached a micron level of about 200, I close the valves, turned of the pump and do the decayed test. So far I’ve always stayed under 500 microns.
You can certainly do that. However, you will likely notice a higher initial rise during the standing vac test, thats all. It only has to do with the smaller size 3/8" line compared to the suction line, thanks!
I like to put my micron gauge on the vacuum pump to test how low my pump will pull. If your vacuum pump won't go below 600 or 700 microns, you'll never pull a good vacuum so test your pump.
This practice will not work for most vacuum gauges. I have tried many times. The issue is the volume of air from the port of the vacuum guage tied directly to the micron gauge is way too small and will give false readings. You have to have volume to test. Put your micron gauge on an empty recovery cylinder , tie your vac pump to the other port on the same recover cyilinder. Start the pump and test. This is the way.
Never out your gauge on your pump, it proves nothing. I’m speaking more for guys that pull a vacuum and hook it up to the pump 🤦♂️
@@taylerellis378 as a natural born dummy who fell into this amazing field, I appreciate your comment AND the mando reference.
@@murkyturkey5238 Some pumps have a valve so you can see the vacuum while the pump isn't running.
Your pump should go down on a only micron guage pull to around 50 microns
Sir kindly share some small tips and tricks that are also controlled by technician as well engineer
Just got into this trade feeling real confident with it
That is great to hear!
I am in the trade for 5 years and I have a serious question here.
Why do I have to reclaim the refrigerant if I can just do a manual pump down? I know there will always be some refrigerant left in the line set but I cannot justify reclaiming the whole refrigerant if I am just going to use it again. Assuming of course I am fixing a leak/bad TXV.
wish i saw this two weeks ago.
Hi Craig, my company only installs mini split systems and deal with new lineset, and we install and commission roughly 4 systems per month. How often would you suggest replacing vacuum pump oil? Thank you for all the excellent content!
Mini splits would pull a quick and very deep vacuum very quickly. I would suggest that you don't go lower than 150 microns in case of a 16ft line set for more than 5 minutes because it might boil to condensation/moisture. I would do at least 8 mini split system's vacuum then change the oil.
Every time you pull a vacuum 😜
@@techbullet1020 what are you talking about? Might boil to condensation? That's what we are removing from the system. Tech bullet? Tech dum f...
Every 40 hours I do mine
Please, anyone! I am looking for a good decent and most accurate micron gauge. Any suggestions, feedbacks and experiences are welcome. I have used the CPS VG200 for the last couple of years and it had served me well. The screen cracked and it still worked, but someone broke into my storage and stole all my tools and I need to replace them, starting with a good reliable micron gauge.Thank you, in advance!!
Test your equipment regularly, don't buy cheap VCRT's. Make sure hose aren't leaking. Thanks Craig.
Great tips !
One question - woth my micron gage - During standing test a after done a vacuum down to 300 when I go to decay test a that 300 jump to around 700 to 800.. but not any higher .. I know for the fact I got no leaks after checking system with pressure and no leaks .. why is this happen thou ?
Most likely moisture. Time it a few times from the time its takes to go from 300 to 800 to see if its a leak or moisure. If the times changes then its moisture, if its the same each time then its probably a leak
@@allanbrito13 why would moisture in a system boil off at different rates every time you do a vacuum test? Shouldnt you get the same readings over time since the same amount of moisture is in the system?
@@raidone7413 because you'd be pulling more moisture out of the system each time
Moisture tends to get trapped in refrigerant oil and it just sits in there so as Craig was explaining, running the fan on the indoor unit puts a heat load on the evaporator therefore helping to release or boil off some of that moisture that’s trapped in the oil. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Most likely not moisture, but that your hose/gauge setup is not as Craig describes, gauge hard next to the machine etc, hoses esp used with oil cause vac to rise.
Even ball valves invariably cause the reading to rise. So that’s why we’re reminded to “play with our balls “ ie late in the vac, exercise the ball valve, watch the reading jump up, then vac another couple minutes, then complete vac
Great roundup. I would disagree w/you about ensuring the vacuum gauge is on the suction side. If you do that, the vacuum may appear good at the gauge while being relatively poor at the far end of the liquid line, given the poor conductance of the liquid line. On the other hand, if you attach your gauge to the liquid line port, when you get a 200 micron reading there you can be sure your vacuum is 200 microns OR BETTER throughout the rest of the system. Naturally it may take a bit longer for your gauge to hit your target, but that's the price you pay for better practice.
How is water going to FREEZE in a deep vacuum? The low pressure lowers the boiling temp.
Hi sir make one video for compressor blast reason
In India lots of incident happen and some technician death
I was pulling a vacuum with an sman380(with built in micron gauge), I know this is not the correct way to do it, that being said I finished my vacuum, performed a decay test it passed, I went to break the vacuum with refrigerant so I purged my yellow hose to make sure I had pure refrigerant in my hose and I got oil out of my yellow hose instead of refrigerant. What type of oil is it? Refrigerant oil or vacuum pump oil, I’m fairly certain it’s not vacuum pump oil, it’s been bugging me for weeks!!! Please respond, thanks man love the videos!!! I really curious as to what and why this happened to me, if anyone knows let me know. Thanks to the community!!
That would be vacuum oil unless there was oil left in that hose from a recovery or checking the charge. The check valve in the pump must not have functioned properly. old pumps didnt have any check valve to stop the oii, thanks!
I have exact same problem.After I finish vacuum with core removal tool, I have got oil coming out of my vacuum hose.
During the vacuum process I observe the compressor oil side glass bubbling. I am seriously thinking that might be the compressor oil.it makes me scared pretty bad.When the compressor start to run. oil level comes to normal again on the compressor.But to be honest It is bugging me for quite time now. anyone has experience something like that before? thanks
At tip 15 it doesn’t sound right. You said don’t remove until you have positive pressure but with this setup the gas will damage the vacuum sensor. Tip 16 is the proper way.
Gaskets! Check your gaskets!
I recommend Dow-Corning high vacuum grease over nylog or refrigerant oil. It doesn't soak into the rubber, it's easy to apply and it's inert.
In my opinion you don't need to worry about moisture freezing up in the line once you purge with nitrogen first
If your vacuum is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit the moisture will boil
Shizat the rizzat???
What kind of shrader tool are you using, i don't pull them out because any shrader tool i have seen leaks a little
Those were appion vcrt's and they work very well, thanks!
I agree with AC guru. Apion is the best for this purpose.
@@acservicetechchannel okay cool, thank you
🏆
Thanks Cory!
HI CRAIG,YOU ANSWER QUESTIONS ON HERE
👍
The 6ft 3/8" Appion Vacuum Certified hose is $60, so what do you mean they're not expensive?
I mean your refrigeration hoses are pretty close to that price. Just the cost of doing business
Why doesn't anyone make a core remover with both ports after the shut off valve? Then no need for a second valve.
You are right
I usually disconnect the vacuum gauge while the vacuum pump is still running and then let it run for a while before adding refrigerant…
9:36
When you mention EPA you actually discredit your self like talking about triple evacuation.
How about some leaks seal in vacuum vs+ pressure?
Give us a real world video
The hoses are not $10. Every vacuum hose I found on Amazon is around $50 each! For me installing my LG Multi-Max system that is one time use, I just use the hoses that came with the cheapo Harbor Freight gauge set. They didn't collapse.
tip 16 refrigerant oil ??? should not be present in virgin refrigerant.
Eh. Look, the best way to leak test is a hydro-pressure test at 15 millichons, which is considerable. After approximately 4 minutes, 12 seconds, relaease the refrigerant into the already hydrated system. Absolute time AND money saver. Water is free. You are welcome.
I worked 10 years as a HVAC instructor at a local Junior College the purpose of a vacuum pump is to reduce the volume and pressure to ZERO. We do it all the time hooking a micron gauge to the vacuum pump
Tip number 41 if you dont have proper tools to do ac work stay home...im tired of fixing your screw ups...
Back in the old days, the hoses and rubber seals, as well as the manifold valves were made of quality rubber and tight machined brass and bronze, and stainless steel. Thats what I find frustrating about modern equipment and tools. Now everything is har bor fre ight quality. In other words it's S H I T quality. I figure that if the EPA was soooo worried about HFC damage to the ozone layer, that they would mandate more solid equipment and tools. More robust tools and equipment, and quality equipment would go farther in limiting the leakage of HFC , than a bunch of crap Leakey service hoses and equipment, made with SH it materials and tools. Also the refrigerants are a big problem. In my experience the best refrigerant is non damaging to the environment is Liguidfied clean propane.
1st problem is he’s using charging hoses. Not vacuum hoses.
Always excellent presentations. I bought bought your procedure books( that hard copy, ebook, and work books.) Excellent books. However, the epub extension is horrible. It only works well on my iPhone Book's App. Anything where else is a painful and unworkable experience.
wat is not expensiff !!! , the all are expensiff
Is this Kermit the frog voice
Ha ha, you are not the first to say that!!!
Tip # 1000 as a proffesioal in this profession going on 30 yrs. 100% of us don't do anything talked about in this fantasy video
Sounds like 30 years of 2nd rate work then. So many hackers out there calling themselves service techs. SMH
High efficiency equipment is much more sensitive to contamination. You are the reason "stuff made today doesn't last as long as stuff made decades ago"