Thanks clarified the difference between core removal tool, core depressor tool and just a tee, and how to use the depressor in combination with the removal tool. Good Stuff!
Thank you for explaining this. I've been recovering and vacing through my manifold and obviously at times it's beendifficult and often taking way to long 😪 I've seen this free flow method before but never really understood it until watching this video. I switched from being a gas heating plumbing engineer 5 years ago to work on ASHP'S and other renewable heating systems. I was sent on a City & Guilds Level 2 Award in F Gas and ODS regulations which basically covers refrigerant handling. By no means does this make me a refrigerant engineer but I endeavour to fill in the gaps and hopefully gain a much better understanding. Once again thank you for this explanation.
I do not impress easily, BUT you Sir did a phenomenal job. I am not an HVAC tech, though I did see the original AC unit designed by Dr. Gorrie for medical use, but we in Florida are thankful. I just bought a core removal (Mastercool) system to use on my wife's SUV. I saw your video title, and thought there is never too much information, I watched, and was not disappointed. Best wishes, and many thanks!
Just went through this on a novice level with the A/C on my truck. The low side service port was faulty. The Schrader would not depress but the system was already compromised so it wasn’t vital we apply positive pressure to install the new valve. Ordered the new high side port an began the whole process. A/C works better than ever now.
Another great informative video,as usual Brian!! I can't let any body touch the C.R.T. YOU'D think it really is self explanatory, many years ago ,90's not sure first time I saw one . Co-worker of mine put it in my hand and said nothing about how it works ,told me figure it out give it back in a day or 2. Invaluable tool!HOPEFULLY more people will get one nd understand it's true potential. You my friend are a big help at making that seem possible. I don't let anyone ,use mine. Until they prove to me it's multiple fuction's. Great video!!!!
Whats the issue with installing schrader back in while under vac before charging , risk of air getting in from small gap in core removal tool or running the risk of it pulling in schrader and letting air in ? Great video just hung up on this point
Not a tech here, but have now done much research. I think the issue is that you have pulled a deep vacuum on the system, and if you expose the system to any air, it will definitely get sucked into the system thereby ruining the whole process. So, he has you purge the air as best you can with vapor from the tank before tightening the tank connector, and then let vapor in the tank fill the vacuum. You then re-install the core in a vapor atmosphere without any air.
That's the reason for not rem9ving the core remover to evacuate. Connect another tee and valve for the vacuum so you can put the core in without removing the tool. This works great for minisplits and pumped down systems because you don't need to hook up any refrigerant to charge. I'm still a "hack" but I really hate the idea of removing the tool during vacuum and relying on refrigerant to get about atmospheric as a way to avoid sucking air in.
How do you Handle when the ports have only a couple of inches clearance before the cabinet gets in the way of the core removal tool and you can’t use them . How would you r&r the cores?
Your the best youtube teacher by far love your video's. That orifice you have used in the past for precision charging, where did you get it and whats the tech name for it. Much appreciated
Just wanted to clear up some confusion 2:25 Are you saying that having a core removal tool is inefficient for vacuum and recovery or only if you are leaving the core in with the core removal tool attached to the port just so that its making connection. And then trying to pull vacuum or recover refrigerant out of the system is inefficient? - Also, in another video there was discussion of when to use a core removal tool. It was mentioned that it may not be a faster process when adding a small amount of refrigerant or in other applications. Would you ever consider using this tool in quick jobs with little or minimal refrigerant being added? For install, adding positive pressure just means unlocking the refrigerant from the condenser before you put the core back in? - How often does the O-ring need to be replaced and is there a quick way of checking for leaks with Nitrogen pressure without installing the core removal to the system?
I find it easiest to break vacuum with low pressure making it much easier to reinstall core. Also I have made it a habit of pulling low side with unit running and pulling highside with unit off whenever possible.
I've given up tryna isolated my micron gauge since I find ball valves almost always leak under vacuum which is a real shame innit . Very good vid , Bryan you're on a roll lately mate keep it up blud . Next if you could show how to maintain/ rebuild VCRTs that'd be brilliant. Cheers mate !
The shradder core on my system appear to have slightly longer stem, not allowing me to reach with shradder removal tool once threaded on. Can’t seem to hear or feel a click, signaling that the removal tool has grabbed on to the core itself. Thoughts?
What brand of schrader removal tool , you are using for vacuum? I used yellow jacket but when I close the valve the vacuum pressure rise very high and quick
How high is very high? Most ball-valve type fittings like these tools will trap a pocket of air between the valve and the valve body. When you close a valve near a micron gauge, you'll typically see it rise 200-400 microns. Leaving the valves just short of fully open near the end of your vacuum process can help suck that air pocket out of them.
Hi Bryan, Just for my clarification, before installing the schrader cores at the completion of the evacuation process, you recommended putting a positive charge of vapor into the system. Is it OK to use a small amount of vapor from blended refrigerants such as the R 400’s? My understanding is to always charge from the liquid state when using blended refrigerants. Also, Is a positive charge 5# acceptable or do you recommend a different psig level to bring the system above atmospheric pressure? Thank you very much, I really enjoy the excellent content that you and your team provides!
It's fine to use a bit of liquid as long as you're only taking it to about 10psi. At that pressure 410 boils at below -20 so unless you're in the poles you shouldn't have any liquid left as long as you don't race to crank up the compressor.
So when I'm done with the vacuum I close the valve on the core removing tool unscrew the hose connect my charging hose and let freon in the lines then install my core thing to the service port then open the king valves right?
so say it's a new system new lineset and condenser do you open the valve on the condenser and then shut it before inserting the shrader back in so there is more pressure prior to inserting the shrader
How far should the schraders be screwed back on? So that later you can get readings with a gauge. I have had incidents where after putting back the schraders , I do t get a reading
so when you have the crt's hooked up to the valves like after you did a nitrogen test and you take out the cores is it Normal to feel that air pressure push the knob out on the crt?? like when you have to push in to take the cores out of the valves on the condenser it allows some air pressure to build into the crt I have the navac crt's and one appion crt. I used them recently for the first time w a navac vacuum pump that has the built in micron gauge
All i hear from the experts is never do anything to allow even the tiniest bit of air in any system or it will damage something in the system.. but yet ive had to get trained by guys whove been in the field for 30 years and watch them screw into a frozen unit without wiping anything off or purging. Dirt and all ive seen on the service port and they just screw in their old gauges that been under the seat and an old tank. Then they go to charge it and set the tank upside down on the fan and proceed to fully open all valves and watch their gauges, eventually cut it all off and when they disconnect they always let a plume out thats big enough to be a ninja smoke screen , then they shake their hand that took the freeze shot, rub it on their pants, and most of the time never put the caps back on the service ports and toss the gauges in their bag and go. Me witnessing this and seeing these systems still running years and years later.. hell i watched one guy only replace the coil and blower unit indoors with a r134 newer unit, leave the old r22 condenser and compressor, but just turn it upside down trying to drain what little oil falls out, pull a vacuum on it, fill it with 134 and charge em 7 grand.. but low and behold that crap show is still running 3 years later.. the outdoor unit was over 20 years old.. lol.. and i touch a unit not even hook into it and instantly clog the metering device or filter.. im just saying here ive seen some magical shit just work for these older cats.. crazyness..
same boat with ya, I work with a 60 years old guy. exactly as what you've described. doesn't even use a micron gauge. but all units we touch, is still working till to this date.
I used a defectove adapter for my mini split during the vacuum process which wasn't vacuuming the lines because the Schrader valve wasn't being depressed and then I stupidly released the refrigerant into the system. If i recover the reidgerant and vacuum them will that work, or should i remove the refrigerant and add more.
Thanks for sharing...so the final step (after the system is charged and under positive pressure) when inserting the core BACK into the system, won't a small amount of air from the rear chamber part of the CRT will be introduced into system? Is this a negligible amount and not to be worried about?
I personally just crack my tank to let some liquid into my manifold, purge air out of my hoses, close the tank and purge while connecting my hoses to the core removal tool and let whatever I have in my manifold into the system, depending what size the system is you might have to let more liquid out of the tank but I try to just get it to like 10-20 psi and then put the scraeder core back in and move forward with charging once all cores are in.
I have a feeling there's going to be some refrigerant figured in with that amount of money. No it's not something you want to do yourself. Do you have the tools and the knowledge? I'm assuming you don't just by you asking that question. Call a qualified tech. You're going to get yourself into a jam and cost yourself more money.
Schrader Valve and Core Removal tool cost less than $50. However, knowledge of how to DIY is priceless !.... Yes you can do it...look for several tutorials...
Do you do it that way, I’m about to start pulling my vacuums without the manifold but I’m guessing it’s too much pressure, your way makes more sense but that’s all I can think out
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Well done. Thank you.
It’s all about the small details in all HVAC repair techniques that separate the Hacks from the true professional techs. Thank you for the lesson.
Thanks clarified the difference between core removal tool, core depressor tool and just a tee, and how to use the depressor in combination with the removal tool. Good Stuff!
Thank you for explaining this. I've been recovering and vacing through my manifold and obviously at times it's beendifficult and often taking way to long 😪 I've seen this free flow method before but never really understood it until watching this video. I switched from being a gas heating plumbing engineer 5 years ago to work on ASHP'S and other renewable heating systems. I was sent on a City & Guilds Level 2 Award in F Gas and ODS regulations which basically covers refrigerant handling. By no means does this make me a refrigerant engineer but I endeavour to fill in the gaps and hopefully gain a much better understanding. Once again thank you for this explanation.
I do not impress easily, BUT you Sir did a phenomenal job. I am not an HVAC tech, though I did see the original AC unit designed by Dr. Gorrie for medical use, but we in Florida are thankful. I just bought a core removal (Mastercool) system to use on my wife's SUV. I saw your video title, and thought there is never too much information, I watched, and was not disappointed. Best wishes, and many thanks!
Just went through this on a novice level with the A/C on my truck. The low side service port was faulty. The Schrader would not depress but the system was already compromised so it wasn’t vital we apply positive pressure to install the new valve. Ordered the new high side port an began the whole process. A/C works better than ever now.
Very good video. I was just going over this the other day on how I could charge a little refrigerant, then add the core back in...
Thank you, very to the point without scolding.
Kudos, sir. Very well done. No filler. Perfect video.
Thank you for the time put into making these video they are incredibly. Helpful
Thank you so much for your commitment to the trade and great content.
Another great informative video,as usual Brian!!
I can't let any body touch the C.R.T. YOU'D think it really is self explanatory, many years ago ,90's not sure first time I saw one . Co-worker of mine put it in my hand and said nothing about how it works ,told me figure it out give it back in a day or 2.
Invaluable tool!HOPEFULLY more people will get one nd understand it's true potential.
You my friend are a big help at making that seem possible.
I don't let anyone ,use mine. Until they prove to me it's multiple fuction's.
Great video!!!!
Funny The first time I saw 1 of these someone left it by a unit and just like you it took me a couple of days to realize what it was :)
I use a third appion for my micron gauge. Great stuff
Great content as always.
@HVAC School why would you not want to completely add all the refrigerant into the system before putting the schrader back in? Thanks for the video!
How about some information on the CoreMax fittings. Do they give you full flow through them when pulling a vacuum?
great professional information
Nice explanation 👌🏽 spot on
Whats the issue with installing schrader back in while under vac before charging , risk of air getting in from small gap in core removal tool or running the risk of it pulling in schrader and letting air in ? Great video just hung up on this point
Not a tech here, but have now done much research. I think the issue is that you have pulled a deep vacuum on the system, and if you expose the system to any air, it will definitely get sucked into the system thereby ruining the whole process. So, he has you purge the air as best you can with vapor from the tank before tightening the tank connector, and then let vapor in the tank fill the vacuum. You then re-install the core in a vapor atmosphere without any air.
That's the reason for not rem9ving the core remover to evacuate. Connect another tee and valve for the vacuum so you can put the core in without removing the tool. This works great for minisplits and pumped down systems because you don't need to hook up any refrigerant to charge. I'm still a "hack" but I really hate the idea of removing the tool during vacuum and relying on refrigerant to get about atmospheric as a way to avoid sucking air in.
In my experience it's a 50/50 chance that the shredder comes out. Overtightened or a carrier!
The o-ring thing I had to figure out by trial and error!
Stay safe.🥃🥃🍺
Retired keyboard super tech.
Wear your safety glasses.
How do you Handle when the ports have only a couple of inches clearance before the cabinet gets in the way of the core removal tool and you can’t use them . How would you r&r the cores?
Your the best youtube teacher by far love your video's. That orifice you have used in the past for precision charging, where did you get it and whats the tech name for it. Much appreciated
Thank you!
This video was so informative! Thank you so much!
thank you for these tips, very good safe information and great recommendations
Great video!
Just wanted to clear up some confusion
2:25 Are you saying that having a core removal tool is inefficient for vacuum and recovery or only if you are leaving the core in with the core removal tool attached to the port just so that its making connection. And then trying to pull vacuum or recover refrigerant out of the system is inefficient?
- Also, in another video there was discussion of when to use a core removal tool. It was mentioned that it may not be a faster process when adding a small amount of refrigerant or in other applications. Would you ever consider using this tool in quick jobs with little or minimal refrigerant being added?
For install, adding positive pressure just means unlocking the refrigerant from the condenser before you put the core back in?
- How often does the O-ring need to be replaced and is there a quick way of checking for leaks with Nitrogen pressure without installing the core removal to the system?
I find it easiest to break vacuum with low pressure making it much easier to reinstall core. Also I have made it a habit of pulling low side with unit running and pulling highside with unit off whenever possible.
Simply nice and clear and concise share. 👍💎✌️💪
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
I've given up tryna isolated my micron gauge since I find ball valves almost always leak under vacuum which is a real shame innit . Very good vid , Bryan you're on a roll lately mate keep it up blud .
Next if you could show how to maintain/ rebuild VCRTs that'd be brilliant. Cheers mate !
I use two valve core remoal tools that way you can isolate the valve and protect the micron gage without worring about the ball valve leaking.
i usually use 2 core removal tools to isolate the micron gage
The shradder core on my system appear to have slightly longer stem, not allowing me to reach with shradder removal tool once threaded on. Can’t seem to hear or feel a click, signaling that the removal tool has grabbed on to the core itself.
Thoughts?
Understood. Thanks.
Would it not be more efficient to charge the system fully before putting the schrader back in so it flows in faster?
Great video. Thank you. So interesting.
What brand of schrader removal tool , you are using for vacuum? I used yellow jacket but when I close the valve the vacuum pressure rise very high and quick
How high is very high? Most ball-valve type fittings like these tools will trap a pocket of air between the valve and the valve body. When you close a valve near a micron gauge, you'll typically see it rise 200-400 microns. Leaving the valves just short of fully open near the end of your vacuum process can help suck that air pocket out of them.
Hi Bryan,
Just for my clarification, before installing the schrader cores at the completion of the evacuation process, you recommended putting a positive charge of vapor into the system. Is it OK to use a small amount of vapor from blended refrigerants such as the R 400’s? My understanding is to always charge from the liquid state when using blended refrigerants. Also, Is a positive charge 5# acceptable or do you recommend a different psig level to bring the system above atmospheric pressure?
Thank you very much, I really enjoy the excellent content that you and your team provides!
It's fine to use a bit of liquid as long as you're only taking it to about 10psi. At that pressure 410 boils at below -20 so unless you're in the poles you shouldn't have any liquid left as long as you don't race to crank up the compressor.
What about the new style of Schrader’s that I’m seeing on Carrier units. Are they field repairable or do ya need to replace the entire assembly?
The Appion brand works the best.
Can you put the full charge in after vacuuming, and then put the Schraeder in afterwards?
I have done it that way with no problem. better process my opinion.
Yes, with a BluVac...
That is how I did my mini split AC but it is difficult to get the shrader back in because of the pressure but you can do it just takes some patience
Alat ini bisakah di aplikasikan ke kulkas 1pintu,salam dari indonesia.
is a mini split schrader valve the same as on a regular unit? I know it'll most likely be a 5/16 tool but is the actual valve the same?
So when I'm done with the vacuum I close the valve on the core removing tool unscrew the hose connect my charging hose and let freon in the lines then install my core thing to the service port then open the king valves right?
so say it's a new system new lineset and condenser do you open the valve on the condenser and then shut it before inserting the shrader back in so there is more pressure prior to inserting the shrader
Greatly helpful content
What do you mean by wait until you are above atmospheric pressure and how I know when I'm above that point?
Doesn't using 7 fittings increase the chances of leaks while hooked up?
Can you pull off micron gauge off the side port while vacuum pump is running to pull air into vacuum pump and not get into system ?
How far should the schraders be screwed back on? So that later you can get readings with a gauge. I have had incidents where after putting back the schraders , I do t get a reading
Is my core always depressed??? Yes, yes it is. Silent cries. Great vid srs
Just curious how do you know when you're above atmospheric pressure?
Had the same question 🙋♂️
@@oindigenous9990 If your gauges are set correctly the 0 represents atmospheric pressure. Anything above 0 and you're now above atmospheric pressure.
Anything about 0 homie
great info
Appion is the best, I have 2 of them, I even have the yellow Jacket, but not as reliable as the Appion
so when you have the crt's hooked up to the valves like after you did a nitrogen test and you take out the cores is it Normal to feel that air pressure push the knob out on the crt?? like when you have to push in to take the cores out of the valves on the condenser it allows some air pressure to build into the crt I have the navac crt's and one appion crt. I used them recently for the first time w a navac vacuum pump that has the built in micron gauge
Do you have an affiliate link to a core depressor tool?
C&D makes the one I use. The CD5050. It’s the only way I hook up to a high side. Life changer.
All i hear from the experts is never do anything to allow even the tiniest bit of air in any system or it will damage something in the system.. but yet ive had to get trained by guys whove been in the field for 30 years and watch them screw into a frozen unit without wiping anything off or purging. Dirt and all ive seen on the service port and they just screw in their old gauges that been under the seat and an old tank. Then they go to charge it and set the tank upside down on the fan and proceed to fully open all valves and watch their gauges, eventually cut it all off and when they disconnect they always let a plume out thats big enough to be a ninja smoke screen , then they shake their hand that took the freeze shot, rub it on their pants, and most of the time never put the caps back on the service ports and toss the gauges in their bag and go. Me witnessing this and seeing these systems still running years and years later.. hell i watched one guy only replace the coil and blower unit indoors with a r134 newer unit, leave the old r22 condenser and compressor, but just turn it upside down trying to drain what little oil falls out, pull a vacuum on it, fill it with 134 and charge em 7 grand.. but low and behold that crap show is still running 3 years later.. the outdoor unit was over 20 years old.. lol.. and i touch a unit not even hook into it and instantly clog the metering device or filter.. im just saying here ive seen some magical shit just work for these older cats.. crazyness..
same boat with ya, I work with a 60 years old guy. exactly as what you've described. doesn't even use a micron gauge. but all units we touch, is still working till to this date.
Is it safe to put nylog blue on the face of the flare fitting as well as the threads?
Thank u for being awesome!
I used a defectove adapter for my mini split during the vacuum process which wasn't vacuuming the lines because the Schrader valve wasn't being depressed and then I stupidly released the refrigerant into the system. If i recover the reidgerant and vacuum them will that work, or should i remove the refrigerant and add more.
Sheesh tough question
I guess on the poppet style its if it leaks vac system all that stuff replace the whole valve of course my 97 cougar has one leaking
Thanks for sharing...so the final step (after the system is charged and under positive pressure) when inserting the core BACK into the system, won't a small amount of air from the rear chamber part of the CRT will be introduced into system? Is this a negligible amount and not to be worried about?
No, cuz once it’s above atmospheric pressure, the pressure will come out instead of going in. (Refrig. Pressure)
Great job and video
The dreaded evacuation... 😂
What is that angled core depressor tool? Im looking for one like it, but i dont know if i trust anything from ex china to be good.
What pressure do you recommend when breaking the vacuum, before inserting the core?
I personally just crack my tank to let some liquid into my manifold, purge air out of my hoses, close the tank and purge while connecting my hoses to the core removal tool and let whatever I have in my manifold into the system, depending what size the system is you might have to let more liquid out of the tank but I try to just get it to like 10-20 psi and then put the scraeder core back in and move forward with charging once all cores are in.
@@tripplewhippercan you not charge the system fully and then put the core in? So it would charge faster
Anyone know a good place to buy replacement Appion CRT O rings? $60 for a bunch of O rings is highway robbery.
Impressive
I f*cking love this channel..!!!! ❤❤❤❤❤
What can happen if you run a vaccum and charge the system but haven't even removed the Schrader core?
You can do it that way, just takes more time
Who thumbs these videos down?? Some old drunk know it all??
I've seen this done incorrectly so many times. Everything I try to correct the tech, he looks at me like I'm crazy.
This was so depressing.
Bryan has excellent knowledge and experience. But Bryan is talking too fast .... 6dB slower would be great .... ^_^
Is this something a DIYer can do? Is it dangerous? I had a company come out and they quoted me $1294 for two Shrader valves.!!
I have a feeling there's going to be some refrigerant figured in with that amount of money. No it's not something you want to do yourself. Do you have the tools and the knowledge? I'm assuming you don't just by you asking that question. Call a qualified tech. You're going to get yourself into a jam and cost yourself more money.
Schrader Valve and Core Removal tool cost less than $50. However, knowledge of how to DIY is priceless !.... Yes you can do it...look for several tutorials...
This vid is three years too late for me! 🤣🤣🤣
L - logic. 👍
Worse yet, if you lose your vacuum, you suck moist outside air into your system. That's not cool.
Why wouldn't you just break the vacuum with the service valve and avoid all of that other nonsense?
Do you do it that way, I’m about to start pulling my vacuums without the manifold but I’m guessing it’s too much pressure, your way makes more sense but that’s all I can think out
@@BabyKMoney yes I do
Snooooooooze fest.....
I have looked back at your previous interactions on this channel. Why do you continue to watch if all you have to add is negative?
@@oldsouth1865 It pops up, I watch about 30 seconds and realize you are a total hack and have to leave.
Lol. Master troll level = 100 😁
Just to clarify, when using a core depressor on CRT, one can remove micron gage before applying positive system pressure,
not sure please clarify.
Why wouldn't you just break the vacuum with the service valve and avoid all of that other nonsense?