For the feedback on the scale modellers. The small scales, like 1:24 and smaller usually use airbrushes. It is for the large scale trucks and construction models, 1:14 scale, but also boats and planes. With trucks and construction models you have a lot of small parts, a rim is only 40mm round, for the planes and boates the sizes are bigger, like up to 1 meter. A plane or a boat has less large surfaces, a truck a lot of small surfaces. As for testing, the golden size needle/nozzle is 0,8mm, perhaps 1.0mm for primer or metallic paint. The other main factor is air usage, because most modellers use a smaller compressor. Think of a 24liter hardwarestore model, currently the lownoise models are very popular. A 750watt brings100l/min at 2bar and 90l/min at 4 bar, so a Sata Minijet is already consuming more than you like. The Iwata LPH50 and LPH80, and the Meiji F55 are the best for low air consumption. I recently bought the Sparmax DH810 which should use 70l/min at 2 bar. I haven’t used it, so no experience yet. Othes guns that I could find which are low on air are: -ProTek 2550: 90l/min at 2bar with 0,8mm -Sagola 475 Xtech: 100l/min at 2 bar with 0,8mm and the 0,5 cap. -Devilbiss ProLite: 100l/min at 2 bar with 0.8mm and the TE5 cap. -AirGunsa AZ4: 105l/min at 1bar with 0,8mm and the AZ4-1 cap(the black one) As a reference: -Anest Iwata LPH80: 50l/min at 0,9 bar with 0,8mm and the E2 cap -Sata Minijet 4400B: 120l/min at 2.0 bar with 0,8mm and the HVLP cap -Sata Minijet 4400B: 200l/min at 2,5bar with 0,8mm and the RP (conventional) cap -ANI R160T/Q: 120l/min at 2.2bar with 0,8mm and the HPS cap. -Sparmax DH810: 70l/min at 2.0 bar with 0,8mm and only one cap possible I asked Sagola about the air consumption on their budget 474 model but received no answer yet. As you can see the sweet spot is to test models below the 100l/min I think, because the spraygun is not the whole chain. Lots of scale modellers use home made spray booths, so the overspray is also interesting to say something about. As for a test, a real spraytest is the most interesting. Perhaps to keep it cheap, you can spray a few fleamarket cars, the 1:24 Burago sportscars or some old Tonka’s. For the size of carparts, the cap of mirrors are perhaps best for their size. I hope you can think of a test, because outside airbrushes, their is not much to find for miniguns, off course with the sprayguns you already have. As for my choice for the Sparmax, it seems good quality as i can judge as a finemechanical engineer (I have no experience in spraypainting), but the price is also good, a tad under the €100,-, which is €50,- cheaper as my second choice, the AirGunsa. The Sagola 474 (€100,-) and 475Xtech (€150,-) are also interesting, but no info on the first and the 475 is a disaster with availability at the moment.
Hi William, thank you for such a detailed, interesting and informative reply, much appreciated 👍 I have no artistic talent so i would always struggle with models i think, but, as you say, maybe it would be enough to just get some older models and have a try, or if car mirror pods would work that is more in my comfort zone i guess. I think you know i have a lot of small sprayguns so am often getting questions from model makers so it would be nice to sort something out, I would like to get some kind of meter that would tell me the true amount of air being drawn by a certain spraygun, i don't mind paying a reasonable price £200/€250 as it would be great for the channel to show people the true consumption but have so far drawn a blank, i think equipment like that is much more money, so, i can use a compressor and see how long it take to restart, i have done this before with some success although not as precise as i would like. I'm surprised Sagola have been slow to respond, when i have contacted them in the past they have been very good, once again thank you 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Hi Pete, flowmeters are expensive, that is why I choose to rely on manufacturers specifications. But they often don’t mention the pressure at where the air consumption is, and you know from experience at what pressure your guns perform best. One other thing to considder, for my trucks I want to use a single layer 2K paint, because real trucks usually don’t have clearcoats, except the metallic finishes. For airplanemodellers there is a good reason to work with single layers as well, saving weight. So you could considder spraying only primer and colorfinish. Just as a option. I hope Sagola will answer, I will wait. Thanks for your effort, much apreciated.
Hi Pete another great video mate, I remember you converting the ANI from a 1.0 to a 1.8 and from what I can see it makes a great primer gun for the small jobs. The Meiji F55 looks a nice little gun tbh it laid the base and clear on really nice and is ideal for doing wheels and it came out looking great👌 Hmm so your going to be spraying models now Pete, I never thought you would be offering spray tanning in your workshop what ever will your wife say😲🙈🤣
😂🤣 I could only dream of that job mate, I get quite a few people contacting me when i use the smaller gun's and often they are into scale models, i can advise on most things like air consumption, fan size etc but nothing in there particular field. I want to make a video where i can compare them, so i can run them on a small compressor to see how long before it kicks in so we know what uses the most air etc, I can do fan size so people can see that but i can't spray models because i don't have any and I'm not inclined to get any, so, just wondering what people wanted to see that's in my capabilities, so any suggestions from people of what they want to see is welcome, cheers mate 👍
Great video. I just purchased this gun for my small shop but have not used it yet. Like many other modellers, I build RC airplane models (~4 to 5 foot wing span) from xps = extruded polystyrene foam. It is the blue and pink stuff you see in the big box stores. A common practice before painting is to fill dings with light weight spackle and after sanding seal it with Minwax satin Polycryclic (applied with a brush). A common paint for plane modellers are the samples from Benjamin Moore. RUclips won’t allow me to post a link. Pledge Future Shine or Windex are commonly used as thinners with these paints. Some people use a primer and others go right to paint in a colour with good coverage. Polycrylic can also be put on as a clear coat in any sheen desired but to seal the foam before paint just use the satin. RC plane modellers often weigh a test piece before and and after paint as every gram counts in the air. While I know you don't paint foam models, it would be valuable to see your approach to painting up a piece of XPS foam with this gun. I am sure you could help many modellers step up their finishes. It would be amazing to see one of my foam planes come out as good as that candy orange gas tank you recently did.
Hi Andrew, thank you for taking the time to reply in such detail, as you say i have no experience of spraying foam models or any other models for that matter. You have got me thinking of possible ways to try these guns out in a way that may answer some questions model makers have, hopefully i can come up with something, thanks again 👍
Great demo I paint lures so I have a lot in common with modelers just some things to keep in mind,, is the weight of the stuff we paint we love using low pressures so we dont need as many hold downs with great weights attached we also lack the over spray control when painting as others. So shutting off the fan and limiting paint flows is not uncommon.
Thanks buddy, it's always a bit difficult for me to relate to something I don't do when I make my videos. I know the equipment I'm using is used by people for all different applications, so I try and relate it to others as much as I can whilst still doing what I need to do. Cheers, buddy 👍
Hi Pete, great video mate! I watched with great interest how you sprayed that wheel, I definitely can learn a lot from this, I spray mine like you spray your car wing to fast, so I’m going to turn the fluid down and spray over more like you do, I finished doing the HBP yesterday and Wednesday I hope to get the base and clear on I will try and mimic the way you do yours and see if I can get an even better finish. I’m going to have to re-watch your ANI GF3 modification video I do find my ANI F1/NS way to climber someone to do a wheel especially down in the barrel on the other side. I loved the tips for using Mercedes’ silver and the Honda one to get the match that maybe something I can try, the original cavalier wheel silver didn’t have much metallic in it so it almost like a light grey I will recorded a video hopefully soon then you can see how different they look, saying that I like the more modern look of the wheels and doesn’t really take away from the original in my opinion. Cheers Pete hope your doing ok. All the best.
Hi Steve, this is only a 0.8 tip gun so as you say doesn't put out a lot of fluid anyway so maybe trying your 1.0 and taking it slower but with more coats will be good for you. The Upol doesn't flow out as much as some so you need to spray more or less for the finish you want so going over the same bit 2 or 3 times is fine, obviously you need to do that on each section as you go but your get there, the last one you did looked really good 👍. Yes, the little GF3 drilled out to 1.8 is my most used primer gun, with its little 100ml pot it's great for getting in those little places, tip sets are only £10 from Sprayguns Direct so you can keep a standard setup as well, a video would be good to see how it goes, cheers mate 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Thanks Pete, yes I think I have been getting away with it I’m Ken on trying the way you did especially with the base coat with my 1.0mm as you say the 0.8 must make a big difference. My dad has the GF3 he has never used it maybe I can borrow the gun and modify my own tip set before buying my own gun S.G.D. have them on offer at the moment so may buy one anyway, I will let you know how I get on with my current setup I will put some pictures on my Instagram after. Thanks for bringing this video to us they really are very informative not just what you say but watching you work and methods as well. Cheers.
Thank you, yes, i got it from paintingtooljapan, i contact them via Instagram, link is in the description, it's a great little gun and as with all Meiji guns it's very well made 👍
Hi Pete. Completely new to spraying. Just ordered GF3 … I’ve got a decent compressor already. Hoping to start off with refurbishing an alloy wheel. Do you have a beginners video on how spray gun , regulator Hi Pete. Completely new to spraying. Just order GF3 … I’ve got a decent compressor already. Hoping to start off with refurbishing an alloy wheel. Do you have a beginners /101 explanation video, including how a gun and regulator works. Also how much sanding do you require prior to spraying. Most appreciated Iain…
Hi Iain, I don't really have any videos directly on how a gun works, I did a video on regulators, which may be interesting, ruclips.net/video/m2-zPsv7oG0/видео.html As far as sanding goes, it needs to be as good as you want it to look. Any irregularities in the surface show up in the paint , so the better the preparation, the better the result , I hope that helps 👍
Hi Dave, for this, so only the outside it uses around 50ml of ready-to-spray base coat, a hole wheel would with tyres off around the 14 to 16 inch mark would be around 150ml per wheel depending on width. It does depend on the base coat, some ready-for-use stuff in highly thinned so doesn't cover as well so you would need more
Hi Mate, The short answer is yes, but I wouldn't say it's ideal, mainly because it has quite a big fan for a little gun. You can always turn the fan in, but I find with most guns, it does cut the atomisation down so not ideal if your doing it everyday. If you want something that will do wheels and good all round for repairs, etc, then yes, the Finer Spot 1.2 would be good
Hi buddy, A mini gun is normally best for wheels as they are smaller and more manoeuvrable.and use less material . This is a great gun for wheels, but there are lots of others that are also good. The Iwata LPH80 and LPH50, Devilbiss DV1s, and Pro Lite S are good. Normally, the better the gun, the easier you will learn , but once you have got good at it, most guns will be fine 👍
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
For the feedback on the scale modellers. The small scales, like 1:24 and smaller usually use airbrushes. It is for the large scale trucks and construction models, 1:14 scale, but also boats and planes. With trucks and construction models you have a lot of small parts, a rim is only 40mm round, for the planes and boates the sizes are bigger, like up to 1 meter. A plane or a boat has less large surfaces, a truck a lot of small surfaces.
As for testing, the golden size needle/nozzle is 0,8mm, perhaps 1.0mm for primer or metallic paint. The other main factor is air usage, because most modellers use a smaller compressor. Think of a 24liter hardwarestore model, currently the lownoise models are very popular. A 750watt brings100l/min at 2bar and 90l/min at 4 bar, so a Sata Minijet is already consuming more than you like.
The Iwata LPH50 and LPH80, and the Meiji F55 are the best for low air consumption. I recently bought the Sparmax DH810 which should use 70l/min at 2 bar. I haven’t used it, so no experience yet.
Othes guns that I could find which are low on air are:
-ProTek 2550: 90l/min at 2bar with 0,8mm
-Sagola 475 Xtech: 100l/min at 2 bar with 0,8mm and the 0,5 cap.
-Devilbiss ProLite: 100l/min at 2 bar with 0.8mm and the TE5 cap.
-AirGunsa AZ4: 105l/min at 1bar with 0,8mm and the AZ4-1 cap(the black one)
As a reference:
-Anest Iwata LPH80: 50l/min at 0,9 bar with 0,8mm and the E2 cap
-Sata Minijet 4400B: 120l/min at 2.0 bar with 0,8mm and the HVLP cap
-Sata Minijet 4400B: 200l/min at 2,5bar with 0,8mm and the RP (conventional) cap
-ANI R160T/Q: 120l/min at 2.2bar with 0,8mm and the HPS cap.
-Sparmax DH810: 70l/min at 2.0 bar with 0,8mm and only one cap possible
I asked Sagola about the air consumption on their budget 474 model but received no answer yet.
As you can see the sweet spot is to test models below the 100l/min I think, because the spraygun is not the whole chain.
Lots of scale modellers use home made spray booths, so the overspray is also interesting to say something about.
As for a test, a real spraytest is the most interesting. Perhaps to keep it cheap, you can spray a few fleamarket cars, the 1:24 Burago sportscars or some old Tonka’s.
For the size of carparts, the cap of mirrors are perhaps best for their size.
I hope you can think of a test, because outside airbrushes, their is not much to find for miniguns, off course with the sprayguns you already have.
As for my choice for the Sparmax, it seems good quality as i can judge as a finemechanical engineer (I have no experience in spraypainting), but the price is also good, a tad under the €100,-, which is €50,- cheaper as my second choice, the AirGunsa.
The Sagola 474 (€100,-) and 475Xtech (€150,-) are also interesting, but no info on the first and the 475 is a disaster with availability at the moment.
Hi William, thank you for such a detailed, interesting and informative reply, much appreciated 👍
I have no artistic talent so i would always struggle with models i think, but, as you say, maybe it would be enough to just get some older models and have a try, or if car mirror pods would work that is more in my comfort zone i guess.
I think you know i have a lot of small sprayguns so am often getting questions from model makers so it would be nice to sort something out, I would like to get some kind of meter that would tell me the true amount of air being drawn by a certain spraygun, i don't mind paying a reasonable price £200/€250 as it would be great for the channel to show people the true consumption but have so far drawn a blank, i think equipment like that is much more money, so, i can use a compressor and see how long it take to restart, i have done this before with some success although not as precise as i would like.
I'm surprised Sagola have been slow to respond, when i have contacted them in the past they have been very good, once again thank you 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Hi Pete, flowmeters are expensive, that is why I choose to rely on manufacturers specifications. But they often don’t mention the pressure at where the air consumption is, and you know from experience at what pressure your guns perform best.
One other thing to considder, for my trucks I want to use a single layer 2K paint, because real trucks usually don’t have clearcoats, except the metallic finishes. For airplanemodellers there is a good reason to work with single layers as well, saving weight. So you could considder spraying only primer and colorfinish. Just as a option.
I hope Sagola will answer, I will wait.
Thanks for your effort, much apreciated.
Hi Pete another great video mate, I remember you converting the ANI from a 1.0 to a 1.8 and from what I can see it makes a great primer gun for the small jobs. The Meiji F55 looks a nice little gun tbh it laid the base and clear on really nice and is ideal for doing wheels and it came out looking great👌
Hmm so your going to be spraying models now Pete, I never thought you would be offering spray tanning in your workshop what ever will your wife say😲🙈🤣
😂🤣 I could only dream of that job mate, I get quite a few people contacting me when i use the smaller gun's and often they are into scale models, i can advise on most things like air consumption, fan size etc but nothing in there particular field.
I want to make a video where i can compare them, so i can run them on a small compressor to see how long before it kicks in so we know what uses the most air etc, I can do fan size so people can see that but i can't spray models because i don't have any and I'm not inclined to get any, so, just wondering what people wanted to see that's in my capabilities, so any suggestions from people of what they want to see is welcome, cheers mate 👍
Very informative video - well done!
Thanks, buddy, much appreciated 👍
Great video. I just purchased this gun for my small shop but have not used it yet. Like many other modellers, I build RC airplane models (~4 to 5 foot wing span) from xps = extruded polystyrene foam. It is the blue and pink stuff you see in the big box stores. A common practice before painting is to fill dings with light weight spackle and after sanding seal it with Minwax satin Polycryclic (applied with a brush). A common paint for plane modellers are the samples from Benjamin Moore. RUclips won’t allow me to post a link.
Pledge Future Shine or Windex are commonly used as thinners with these paints. Some people use a primer and others go right to paint in a colour with good coverage. Polycrylic can also be put on as a clear coat in any sheen desired but to seal the foam before paint just use the satin. RC plane modellers often weigh a test piece before and and after paint as every gram counts in the air. While I know you don't paint foam models, it would be valuable to see your approach to painting up a piece of XPS foam with this gun. I am sure you could help many modellers step up their finishes. It would be amazing to see one of my foam planes come out as good as that candy orange gas tank you recently did.
Hi Andrew, thank you for taking the time to reply in such detail, as you say i have no experience of spraying foam models or any other models for that matter.
You have got me thinking of possible ways to try these guns out in a way that may answer some questions model makers have, hopefully i can come up with something, thanks again 👍
Great demo I paint lures so I have a lot in common with modelers just some things to keep in mind,, is the weight of the stuff we paint we love using low pressures so we dont need as many hold downs with great weights attached we also lack the over spray control when painting as others. So shutting off the fan and limiting paint flows is not uncommon.
Thanks buddy, it's always a bit difficult for me to relate to something I don't do when I make my videos.
I know the equipment I'm using is used by people for all different applications, so I try and relate it to others as much as I can whilst still doing what I need to do. Cheers, buddy 👍
Hi Pete, great video mate! I watched with great interest how you sprayed that wheel, I definitely can learn a lot from this, I spray mine like you spray your car wing to fast, so I’m going to turn the fluid down and spray over more like you do, I finished doing the HBP yesterday and Wednesday I hope to get the base and clear on I will try and mimic the way you do yours and see if I can get an even better finish. I’m going to have to re-watch your ANI GF3 modification video I do find my ANI F1/NS way to climber someone to do a wheel especially down in the barrel on the other side. I loved the tips for using Mercedes’ silver and the Honda one to get the match that maybe something I can try, the original cavalier wheel silver didn’t have much metallic in it so it almost like a light grey I will recorded a video hopefully soon then you can see how different they look, saying that I like the more modern look of the wheels and doesn’t really take away from the original in my opinion. Cheers Pete hope your doing ok. All the best.
Hi Steve, this is only a 0.8 tip gun so as you say doesn't put out a lot of fluid anyway so maybe trying your 1.0 and taking it slower but with more coats will be good for you.
The Upol doesn't flow out as much as some so you need to spray more or less for the finish you want so going over the same bit 2 or 3 times is fine, obviously you need to do that on each section as you go but your get there, the last one you did looked really good 👍.
Yes, the little GF3 drilled out to 1.8 is my most used primer gun, with its little 100ml pot it's great for getting in those little places, tip sets are only £10 from Sprayguns Direct so you can keep a standard setup as well, a video would be good to see how it goes, cheers mate 👍
@@peteshobbies5383 Thanks Pete, yes I think I have been getting away with it I’m Ken on trying the way you did especially with the base coat with my 1.0mm as you say the 0.8 must make a big difference. My dad has the GF3 he has never used it maybe I can borrow the gun and modify my own tip set before buying my own gun S.G.D. have them on offer at the moment so may buy one anyway, I will let you know how I get on with my current setup I will put some pictures on my Instagram after. Thanks for bringing this video to us they really are very informative not just what you say but watching you work and methods as well. Cheers.
Hi Pete, another great and informative video... Just wanted to ask where did you purchase this spraygun?..
Thank you, yes, i got it from paintingtooljapan, i contact them via Instagram, link is in the description, it's a great little gun and as with all Meiji guns it's very well made 👍
Hi Pete. Completely new to spraying. Just ordered GF3 … I’ve got a decent compressor already. Hoping to start off with refurbishing an alloy wheel. Do you have a beginners video on how spray gun , regulator Hi Pete. Completely new to spraying. Just order GF3 … I’ve got a decent compressor already. Hoping to start off with refurbishing an alloy wheel. Do you have a beginners /101 explanation video, including how a gun and regulator works. Also how much sanding do you require prior to spraying. Most appreciated Iain…
Hi Iain, I don't really have any videos directly on how a gun works, I did a video on regulators, which may be interesting,
ruclips.net/video/m2-zPsv7oG0/видео.html
As far as sanding goes, it needs to be as good as you want it to look. Any irregularities in the surface show up in the paint , so the better the preparation, the better the result , I hope that helps 👍
How much base paint did you us for that wheel? How much base paint would I need to spray 5 x 13 inch rims, full wheel? Thanks.
Hi Dave, for this, so only the outside it uses around 50ml of ready-to-spray base coat, a hole wheel would with tyres off around the 14 to 16 inch mark would be around 150ml per wheel depending on width.
It does depend on the base coat, some ready-for-use stuff in highly thinned so doesn't cover as well so you would need more
Hi Pete, curious would the Meiji Finer Spot be compact enough to also spray wheels? Thanks!
Hi Mate, The short answer is yes, but I wouldn't say it's ideal, mainly because it has quite a big fan for a little gun.
You can always turn the fan in, but I find with most guns, it does cut the atomisation down so not ideal if your doing it everyday.
If you want something that will do wheels and good all round for repairs, etc, then yes, the Finer Spot 1.2 would be good
@@peteshobbies5383 thanks. Could you put a smaller tip to get a smaller fan as well? Is the Meiji f55 parts compatible with it?
@samuraik5315 Good idea, but unfortunately, they are not compatible
so if i want a spray gun for learning to become a wheel refinisher this is the best one to start? or what are you recommendations
Hi buddy, A mini gun is normally best for wheels as they are smaller and more manoeuvrable.and use less material .
This is a great gun for wheels, but there are lots of others that are also good. The Iwata LPH80 and LPH50, Devilbiss DV1s, and Pro Lite S are good.
Normally, the better the gun, the easier you will learn , but once you have got good at it, most guns will be fine 👍
😍😍😍😍😍
Thank you buddy 👍
Do you prime with a different gun?
Hi Anthony, Yes, in this video, I use a modified ANI GF3, which basically had the tip drilled out to 1.8mm