Hey man, props to you for retrying it. I admit I thought you "messed it up" by using the heat gun, but hey, you proved it still doesn't work great without a lot of paint. So props to you bud! I definitely learned this is junk today lol
Best quote ever: “if you don’t finish high school, you can always finish drywall”. And for what it’s worth, I was a naysayer on your scientific method first time around, but also didn’t believe it was good for anything but a quick and dirty repair.
Thanks for turning the patch so I could read the writing on the (dry)wall. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Finishing high school is working against me though. I suck at finishing drywall.
You are too kind entertaining commenters who are amateurs at best. You have seen the results if you are okay with the look, have at it but in this case don't tell a professional he did it wrong. This guy is top-notch and knows his stuff! Maybe in another video, you amateurs can call him out. Thanks for the video. 👍
I'm baffled why so many are defending this garbage patch even in light of the fact that this channel teaches you how to patch the right way. Take the time to do it the right way and not use a round piece of tape. That being said it was entertaining!
@@Toxicetc I'm not sure the context of "lying" but okay. I've used this patch personally and its garbage. I ripped it off the wall and patched the wall correctly after that. I was just surprised VC spent so much time making videos for this piece of tape patch.
I agree I'd never use this patch. But for home owners with no experience with finishing drywall, this patch actually does a half decent job if done correctly. 2 cracks at it and the creator still hasn't done it correctly. Personally I'd much rather come into a home and the owner has patched with this product vs some of the patch jobs I've seen that I've had to take a belt sander to.
@@warlok9 LOL "belt sanders" Those were some of mine when I first learned how to do sheetrock! I tend to agree with you about less experienced people attracted to this sticker patch but again my main comment was why so many were defending it by those that seemed to have experience with patching the right way.
I remember years ago a painter would use packing tape to cover a hole. He would apply a thin coat of paintable filler around the edge, sand and paint. It looked good for a while, but eventually the adhesive would begin to fail and detach from the wall. not to mention should it be hit again, it's back to square one. If it's between studs, do a California patch. If near or on a stud, drywall patch with backing. Go with what works.
Hey Ben. I couldn’t find any other way of contacting you. So I guess I’ll just be ghetto and write my question on here. I had an interesting video idea. I work as a painter/drywaller/maintenance for hospitals in the United States. I’m currently doing an experiment with drywall, out of curiosity and boredom. The experiment is to see whether or not you can patch a drywall hole, and see if it can be securely reanchored/ rescrewed into the same exact hole, without the patch cracking/failing, screw/anchor not securing, etc. Best example I can give is, pretend someone rips their towel holder off. They then move the towel holder up, secure it, patch and paint. Which is what most folks would do. Then years later, the next person rips it off, moves it down and drills/anchors into the exact same spot the last person had patched. So that’s why I’m curious to see what method works best, just for the off chance someone does that. And not leaving the next person a headache to deal with. Because sometimes moving it up or down isn’t applicable. Hopefully that explanation makes sense. I made 3 equal sized holes into scrap drywall. Each hole was made with a 1/2 inch/ 12.7 mil drillbit. Each hole was scraped, prepped and loose paper cut away. Here’s each hole, and it’s process. #1 filled with just 5 min hot mud #2 prefilled with 5 min, let set up. Then put mesh tape roughly 1.5 inches overlapping on each side, with more 5 min over top. #3 Prefilled with 5 min, let set up. Then used thinned down all purpose and put paper tape over top. Went roughly 1.5 inches overlapping each side. My hope with this one is whether or not it mimics the strength/secureness of the factory installed paper on gypsum board. My experiment will by 3 parts, once on each of the 3 holes and it methods. 1. To just put a rock 2 rock screw in to see if the patch breaks/cracks, fails, falls out, etc. 2. Use a drillbit to make a hole to fit an anchor in, and whether it will fail. 3. To put a stud behind the drywall and see if the each experiment patch can be drilled into and secured strong with a stud without breaking/cracking, failing, etc. Hopefully this would be an interesting/informative video idea in the future. And I figured since you’ve been at this way longer than me, that you could go even more in depth regarding it. Make an experiment out of it, or just two cents even. Maybe make the video/multiple videos even more interesting, by seeing how secure/strong a California patch would be with a screw and with weight on it? Or taking a failed anchor out putting 5 min mud into the hole and onto the anchor, putting it in still wet and letting it dry to see if it’s works? Or maybe even testing with spray foam, caulking, epoxy, to see how it would hold up after an reanchor attempt. The options are plenty! Thank you, Ben. I’ve admired your channel for many, many years, and it’s helped excel my career to great heights! You’ve been an incredible teacher/mentor for me. Best regards. -Luke
I finished the drywall in our bedroom and moved on to priming. I ran out of bullseye 2 on the ceiling, but I also I got some bleed-through. I accidentally bought bin 123, and was going to go back to Lowes to buy matching but then I watched this video. My result was so much better. Thanks so much!
I kinda wish they made a flower power sticker that was designed to be stuck to the wall where a doorknob would hit. Full width adhesive so it's not a blister, surfaced to promote mud adhesion. You stick it to the drywall before you start mudding, make it disappear, and it just sits there invisibly waiting to keep doorknobs from penetrating. 🙃
when I first saw it in the store (prior to your videos) i laughed and shook my head. Yes it is a little more easy for a homer owner than those drydex patch kits with the plastic knife and wall patch. But any half decent DIY'er/Home owner who has done a little tile backsplash should be able to handle a basic drywall patch with a quickset 1kilo pouch and a bit of tape, 3 coats, sand and you are done.
You could keep redoing this for the next 10 years and someone would always come up with a suggestion of why you're doing it wrong. Thanks for trying again though. My wife talked me into one of a quick patch sort of thing once and I ended up cutting out a much later hole and patching it with a piece of drywall and some backer boards.
That blister brings back ~fond~ memories of the hideous patch job the previous owners did for a hole in the closet ceiling. They used a very similar patch, though it was more of a cog shape than a flower. To top it off, they mudded over it with what I'm pretty sure was just straight spackle. I honestly don't know why they patched it-leaving an open hole would have been far less ugly than that abomination. Sure, they also never did maintenance on the boiler and it rusted shut, but I'm only half as mad about that as I am about the patch job.
If it’s a large or deep hole just use some expanding foam then fill with Toupret Joint, Skim & Fill, second fill if required and a light sanding. Perfect finish. However, when it comes to plastering or skimming i’d leave it to the pros.
Thanks for taking this all the way to the bitter end, seriously please just never come back. lolol. Frankly though once you opened the up the mud you are saying the person is a DIYer who has some skills and tools so you might as well do a typical drywall repair.
It was interesting to see how it fared without the heat gun :) As someone recovering from brain surgery, this patch would be a life saver for me, if someone had somehow put a hole in the wall.. and my hubby wasn't around to do it properly. The temptation to an entire wall with those patches would be strong for me, as I see it as a dot on the wall... and lots of patches could make a wall polka dotted fairly easily :)
Question: I have a previous client that flips houses, his current place wasn't selling because it had a kitchen in the basement(broker said this). He had somebody rip it out and I went to patch the drywall and vinyl floor. His main contractor that does the Reno's was demanding that I follow his instructions for the drywall. He said that I needed to add "special" powder to the all purpose so that it dries faster. And I can patch and paint in the same day. Is this a thing? Or is this just 5 min quickset? And does this even work? I did it because that's what he wanted. It does seem to dry faster but 4-5 hours in and it was still way too soft for sanding.
Props to you for the extra effort of proving the keyboard warriors wrong. Leave it to the those commenters from the last video who put in zero effort and trying to defend a patch designed for people with zero skills on patching drywall. I guarantee that almost nobody who watched either of these videos will buy this product unless your goal is to patch something with minimal effort. BTW, I was sad that I didn't hear anymore "coats of pain" jokes. That was by far my favorite part of the last video.
Would it be better to stick that sticker at the back sort of backing thing then build the mud up front to get more consistent,non-sagging surface before the top coating?
The first time I noticed this in HD I knew it was junk. Aside from the inability to hide well you also have an issue of someone trying to hang a picture on it 15yrs from now. Good luck ever pitting a picture frame nail there. A 2x2 project panel and some mud is about the same price and a way better option.
Come on man, you gotta give this product a fair chance! Currently Mercury is in retrograde, negatively influencing the integrity of the patch, also the paint was very likely not produced within the months of february-march which is, quite frankly, absolutely unacceptable.
I looked at that dumb thing this weekend, had visions of the first video you did on it. Even for the bargain basement repairs I am doing on the fist sized holes caused by "the movers" in our rental property, I will stick with the 7x7 mesh tape sticky patch and a few coats of mud
Nice to see you responding to the comments. I'm sure the people that had doubted your original results have been convinced by you PHD in Drywallogy/Mudification. BTW. you said doo-doo. 2:21
Another great video. I do know that drywall work is harder than it looks. It takes a lot of practice. The guy who uses this patch has no idea how to do the repair and is just hoping to get his rental deposit back.
I think their idea is the initial paint layer is the same thickness as the layer you peel off after the initial paint. Then two more coat will cover everything up. Maybe in an idea situation, it will work. But 99% time it won’t. And it’s not much easier than just do regular way
@@vancouvercarpenter what I wonder is when these companies test these products if they test them with the drywall flat on a table vs on a wall because as soon as you turned the drywall to the side (like a wall) the patch showed the bubble really well (which defeats the purpose of a patch to begin with)
I'm a little late to the party but thought I'd still put my 2 cents in. Now first off not a fan of these patches, but as for the paint side of things; I should preface by saying I work on a military base servicing 4500 units and see an average of 10-25 work orders a day depending on the time of year. I'm personally not a fan of zinsser products; you kept trying to build up paint around the edges of the patch but in my experience zinsser procucts tend to be very thin/diluted, we only get zinsser when we can't get our hands on kilz. I find kilz has the best coverage, adhesion, and is much thicker then the competitors. I think you would have had better luck with kilz, I also think 2 coats before peeling and 1 coat after may have provided better results then 1 before and 2 after, but I don't expect you to do this a 3rd time to find out lol. Either way for these "door knob" patches I think I'll stick with the tried and true do it right and install a door bump on the wall to ensure I don't have to come back every year or so when a new resident puts a hole in the wall because the spring bump failed over time. Either way, interesting video, actually made me think about whether the convenience of the patch installation was worth it; I don't think so but I did think about it.
I bought this pre mix all purpose mud from certainteed calls easi-fil. i used it to skim coat a wall. after it dried and i proceedd to prime it with zesnier primer, it revealed a TON of micro bubble holes in the skim coat. so i had to go back and cover them all up. is their a way to prevent it? i used the premix straight out of the pale.
add some water to thin the mix. also mud will bubble when going over existing painted surface. The paint seals the wall, forcing the moisture in the mix to come back out thus creating the bubble. What I do is after mudding the area, leave it for a minute before you skim/remove the material. This gives it a chance to work/stick to the wall, doesn't get rid of all the pit holes but helps. Then go over again with a tight skim coat to fill in the holes.
@@andrewcarr2431 i've had an issue with skimming painted walls too, didn't matter how many times i've skimmed it, the bubbles still came in, what I did to mitigate that was skim coat the whole wall with a tight skim, then by the time i finished that wall, i skimmed over it again ( while still wet) and that seemed to work out the bubbles.
LOL you did it again!! 😆 Like the first time it was like asking a brain surgeon to remove a tumor with an ice cream scoop! The response ... it wasn't scientific enough!!! 🤪 Remove a tumor with a teaspoon and be real careful this time ... results .... still ☠ 🤣🤣
Can you try one of those patches that come with a wire mesh. Also I think this flower patch is better than most homeowner patches, and probably easier to fix, but it doesn't belong in a pro or even semi pros toolbox. Basically, if you own a 6 inch knife you shouldn't own these
What if you trimmed the hole to to except the whole thicker center part? Then, after two coats of primer, sanded the edges of the patch, and then added another coat of primer, then paint?
I most definitely agree with VC...but, put it in perspective...as VC has already said. This product is marketed for the un-handy homeowner. A person who doesn't own a drywall knife or has ever done anything more than paint and can't afford to hire someone to do it. Most people have a old can of paint and a brush to put this patch on and be happy it isn't a gaping hole. I would call it a win for DAP and a win for the un-handy homeowner...but, not for me personally!
Hardware store recommended this. Wish I woulda seen this. A piece of tape would be better. Now I gotta a paint covers sticker. I'm not real handy but I try. Now I gotta go get a real patch kit and do it over again. If it seems too good to be true yada.
Hi there, I've learned a lot watching your drywalleryest videos but I would really love to see some videos on the following: One, how do you know when you're done? I feel like I've been way too much of a perfectionist but I just don't know when to stop. Some of your videos I couldn't tell that you were leaving a little liftoff marks, so I kept trying to get "perfect" or near perfect surface before sanding. Then I saw one of your later ones where you used side lighting to see where you needed to sand. Also I have a real mess of plumbing in my basement. You talk about lipstick on a pig, this is eyeshadow on a warthog. I have a lot of pipes downstairs that I've been trying to mud around. some are really tough, a couple curve out from the ceiling or wall, that is the curve is within the drywall making it super hard to fill. So I wonder what you would do for that. Similarly I have some other pipes that are barely above the drywall in the ceiling (actually 1/8" copper pipes that sit within the drywall thickness) or it even slightly angles downward from above to below. I don't have any options right now for redoing the plumbing, just trying to figure out if I should try to cover it with drywall/mud or box around it (it's a LOT). I even thought about installing a drop ceiling but it's already low, at 89" with no flooring. The remodelers did such a terrible job of taping and not-really-mudding so I'm having to sand and re-mud a bunch. Ugh. Any tips? Would you please do one or two videos about when to stop, and how to drywall/finish around pipes going in the wall or ceiling?
Hey, I just read your comment, I'm a taper and I thought I'd try to give you some advice, not sure if you've fixed it yet but if not I can give you some tips, as for coating, Ben has some really good videos on liftoffs, you need a pole sander to sand large areas, my workflow is typically a round sander with 100 grit between coats, then I use my black widow for joints and pole sander for angles and a gator quick sheet sander for hand stuff, you only use a sponge for small stuff that other stuff doesn't fit in or 3way corners. Getting a perfect finish before sanding isn't difficult you just need the right workflow, your first coat is like your fill coat, your second coat is your smoothing coat, sand between both quickly but generally you get it pretty good after two coats, flat and pretty good then you pull a tight skim over it to get your perfect coat before sanding. The sanding step is critical because once you prime you're kind of locked in to what you've done, pole sander is essential, preferably a rectangle one with spongebacked sand paper, you could also use a circle sander with a sponge built in and 150 or 180 grit, it isn't ideal but easier to use so long as you're careful of scratching, the small scratches will dissapear but be careful of dinging up the edge of the sandpaper because they'll make large scratches that will show through, I dislike seeing the scratch pattern even though it will be covered by paint texture because I find I can't find defects as easily. As for your basement, I don't quite get what you mean by pipes the thickness of the drywall and the pipes, I mean I think you mean you have pipes hanging between and lower than the joists that are pushing on the back of the drywall making it bulge out that you've tried to mud over, if that's the case, and the ceiling you have is a total mess, I'd cut the places the drywall is bulging out and overlay everything, if you mean the pipes hang down so much that they go through the ceiling then I'd use a flush cutter and cut a very square channel for them to sit in an then put a rectangle of trim around them to hide the edge, you could also look at videos on how to build bulkheads if they're low enough but I think you're opposed to that I kind of think it's the first because you've tried to mud over the bulge. Anytime you have something poking through the drywall and you have broken board you have to cut out and use setting mud to fill it in and tape it, you can also build up quite a bit with setting mud if you float out a really wide area. I'd cut all the broken or bowed out board out, just the paper at the front and the broken board, leave the backing which is easy you just cut the surface of the drywall and dig the broken bits out and then fill it in with durabond or sheetrock and fibatape it and then float it out, do that to the whole sealing and then skim it, use a 2 or 3 foot skimming blade and a paint roller, Ben has some videos doing that, or if you're good with a hawk and trowel then just skim it out, first one way then the other, if you don't have practice then keep them to pretty tight skims and do that a few times sanding in between just to knock of high points, if you use the tool right it will get you flat result because you can see based on cutting in where it isn't flat Oh and if you mean you have pipes coming out perpendicular/normal to the wall then just use setting mud to fill the hole, mesh tape or fiba on around the hole like a stop sign then cover tight to the pipe and float it out and sand flat then wipe the mud off the pipe and it looks great.
What about the metal mesh square stick on patches they seem to work good for outlet holes there quick but do take a couple coats of spackle . I'm a skateboarder by the way. Ben
You beat the drywall patch to death. There aint no more. The tenet should lose they damage deposit on this one. Passable in a low rental but not so much in high end market
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Hey man, props to you for retrying it. I admit I thought you "messed it up" by using the heat gun, but hey, you proved it still doesn't work great without a lot of paint. So props to you bud! I definitely learned this is junk today lol
Best quote ever: “if you don’t finish high school, you can always finish drywall”. And for what it’s worth, I was a naysayer on your scientific method first time around, but also didn’t believe it was good for anything but a quick and dirty repair.
Thanks for turning the patch so I could read the writing on the (dry)wall. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Finishing high school is working against me though. I suck at finishing drywall.
:)
“This is such a pain doing this video twice…”. Love it Ben, keep it up. The 3”blister was the Cherry on top!
You are too kind entertaining commenters who are amateurs at best.
You have seen the results if you are okay with the look, have at it but in this case don't tell a professional he did it wrong. This guy is top-notch and knows his stuff!
Maybe in another video, you amateurs can call him out.
Thanks for the video. 👍
I'm baffled why so many are defending this garbage patch even in light of the fact that this channel teaches you how to patch the right way. Take the time to do it the right way and not use a round piece of tape. That being said it was entertaining!
Ur lying.
@@Toxicetc I'm not sure the context of "lying" but okay. I've used this patch personally and its garbage. I ripped it off the wall and patched the wall correctly after that. I was just surprised VC spent so much time making videos for this piece of tape patch.
@@stevejones9044 I just used one and put a thin coat of 90 min on top, than painted it was great
I agree I'd never use this patch. But for home owners with no experience with finishing drywall, this patch actually does a half decent job if done correctly. 2 cracks at it and the creator still hasn't done it correctly.
Personally I'd much rather come into a home and the owner has patched with this product vs some of the patch jobs I've seen that I've had to take a belt sander to.
@@warlok9 LOL "belt sanders" Those were some of mine when I first learned how to do sheetrock! I tend to agree with you about less experienced people attracted to this sticker patch but again my main comment was why so many were defending it by those that seemed to have experience with patching the right way.
I have no "dog" in this beef, but I absolutely love seeing you revisit it. Please keep making videos like this reviewing homeowner silly products.
“You can blend in that flower power, but you can never make that bulge go away.” Words to live by 😂. Love to see you use that barbell some day!
I think I will stick with the California patch! It always looks good and has not failed me.
wow, I did not think people wanted you to do this patch again. I thought it was pretty clear before that it wouldn't work
There will always be contrarians.
Get the contrarians to go against other contrarians lol
I agree, I don't get it. I had no doubt it was a terrible product.
I actually used this on a ceiling it worked great.
I appreciate all the work and effort you put into such a ridiculous product demonstration. You're my favorite skill RUclipsr.
My first time watching a live. Awesome!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I remember years ago a painter would use packing tape to cover a hole. He would apply a thin coat of paintable filler around the edge, sand and paint. It looked good for a while, but eventually the adhesive would begin to fail and detach from the wall. not to mention should it be hit again, it's back to square one. If it's between studs, do a California patch. If near or on a stud, drywall patch with backing. Go with what works.
That wasn't a painter, that was a hack shyster.
@@jedimindtrick8966 I didn't say he was good. That example was the least of his sins, which were many.
Hey Ben.
I couldn’t find any other way of contacting you. So I guess I’ll just be ghetto and write my question on here.
I had an interesting video idea.
I work as a painter/drywaller/maintenance for hospitals in the United States.
I’m currently doing an experiment with drywall, out of curiosity and boredom.
The experiment is to see whether or not you can patch a drywall hole, and see if it can be securely reanchored/ rescrewed into the same exact hole, without the patch cracking/failing, screw/anchor not securing, etc.
Best example I can give is, pretend someone rips their towel holder off. They then move the towel holder up, secure it, patch and paint. Which is what most folks would do.
Then years later, the next person rips it off, moves it down and drills/anchors into the exact same spot the last person had patched. So that’s why I’m curious to see what method works best, just for the off chance someone does that. And not leaving the next person a headache to deal with. Because sometimes moving it up or down isn’t applicable.
Hopefully that explanation makes sense.
I made 3 equal sized holes into scrap drywall. Each hole was made with a 1/2 inch/ 12.7 mil drillbit. Each hole was scraped, prepped and loose paper cut away.
Here’s each hole, and it’s process.
#1 filled with just 5 min hot mud
#2 prefilled with 5 min, let set up. Then put mesh tape roughly 1.5 inches overlapping on each side, with more 5 min over top.
#3 Prefilled with 5 min, let set up. Then used thinned down all purpose and put paper tape over top. Went roughly 1.5 inches overlapping each side. My hope with this one is whether or not it mimics the strength/secureness of the factory installed paper on gypsum board.
My experiment will by 3 parts, once on each of the 3 holes and it methods.
1. To just put a rock 2 rock screw in to see if the patch breaks/cracks, fails, falls out, etc.
2. Use a drillbit to make a hole to fit an anchor in, and whether it will fail.
3. To put a stud behind the drywall and see if the each experiment patch can be drilled into and secured strong with a stud without breaking/cracking, failing, etc.
Hopefully this would be an interesting/informative video idea in the future.
And I figured since you’ve been at this way longer than me, that you could go even more in depth regarding it. Make an experiment out of it, or just two cents even.
Maybe make the video/multiple videos even more interesting, by seeing how secure/strong a California patch would be with a screw and with weight on it? Or taking a failed anchor out putting 5 min mud into the hole and onto the anchor, putting it in still wet and letting it dry to see if it’s works?
Or maybe even testing with spray foam, caulking, epoxy, to see how it would hold up after an reanchor attempt.
The options are plenty!
Thank you, Ben.
I’ve admired your channel for many, many years, and it’s helped excel my career to great heights! You’ve been an incredible teacher/mentor for me.
Best regards.
-Luke
I finished the drywall in our bedroom and moved on to priming. I ran out of bullseye 2 on the ceiling, but I also I got some bleed-through. I accidentally bought bin 123, and was going to go back to Lowes to buy matching but then I watched this video. My result was so much better. Thanks so much!
I kinda wish they made a flower power sticker that was designed to be stuck to the wall where a doorknob would hit. Full width adhesive so it's not a blister, surfaced to promote mud adhesion. You stick it to the drywall before you start mudding, make it disappear, and it just sits there invisibly waiting to keep doorknobs from penetrating. 🙃
Or just get a door stop lol
@@alejandrolasso2171 Obviously, you get a door stop, but *WHEN* it fails, you won't automatically be in drywall patching mode.
Just get a doorstop, and hinge door stop
Very thorough. That should leave no questions.
when I first saw it in the store (prior to your videos) i laughed and shook my head. Yes it is a little more easy for a homer owner than those drydex patch kits with the plastic knife and wall patch. But any half decent DIY'er/Home owner who has done a little tile backsplash should be able to handle a basic drywall patch with a quickset 1kilo pouch and a bit of tape, 3 coats, sand and you are done.
You could keep redoing this for the next 10 years and someone would always come up with a suggestion of why you're doing it wrong. Thanks for trying again though. My wife talked me into one of a quick patch sort of thing once and I ended up cutting out a much later hole and patching it with a piece of drywall and some backer boards.
Great video it is entertaining and also vary helpful and informative.
Keep up the amazing work Ben.
Vancouver carpenter is the best drywall channel on RUclips
Thank you!!!
You're the best. Love the videos.
That blister brings back ~fond~ memories of the hideous patch job the previous owners did for a hole in the closet ceiling. They used a very similar patch, though it was more of a cog shape than a flower. To top it off, they mudded over it with what I'm pretty sure was just straight spackle. I honestly don't know why they patched it-leaving an open hole would have been far less ugly than that abomination. Sure, they also never did maintenance on the boiler and it rusted shut, but I'm only half as mad about that as I am about the patch job.
Lol! I hope they’ll add a “pack of crumbs” to the patch kit just to sprinkle on and increase the distraction factor
This is “get your damage deposit back” good enuf. Pretty sure that’s the target market
Im wondering if these patch products are only for when there is an orange peel applied?? Not smoothwall
Thanks for doing this comment response video. It was fun to watch your reactions.
If it’s a large or deep hole just use some expanding foam then fill with Toupret Joint, Skim & Fill, second fill if required and a light sanding. Perfect finish. However, when it comes to plastering or skimming i’d leave it to the pros.
Thanks for taking this all the way to the bitter end, seriously please just never come back. lolol. Frankly though once you opened the up the mud you are saying the person is a DIYer who has some skills and tools so you might as well do a typical drywall repair.
I tried one of those line crack stick patches right by a door casing on one of my jobs. Could see right through it.
Thank you for humoring the comment section and re-visiting this product.
It was interesting to see how it fared without the heat gun :) As someone recovering from brain surgery, this patch would be a life saver for me, if someone had somehow put a hole in the wall.. and my hubby wasn't around to do it properly. The temptation to an entire wall with those patches would be strong for me, as I see it as a dot on the wall... and lots of patches could make a wall polka dotted fairly easily :)
I am suddenly thinking of the Partridge Family for some reason… lolol
Thanks for doing the follow up with the mud!
Forgot the final step of covering the affected wall with a second layer of drywall.
😂
Maybe you should try it with Saran Wrap - or fiberglass. The problem is you went to Harvard Drywall and not McGill.
Looks smooth. I can't see anything wrong.
Question: I have a previous client that flips houses, his current place wasn't selling because it had a kitchen in the basement(broker said this). He had somebody rip it out and I went to patch the drywall and vinyl floor. His main contractor that does the Reno's was demanding that I follow his instructions for the drywall.
He said that I needed to add "special" powder to the all purpose so that it dries faster. And I can patch and paint in the same day.
Is this a thing? Or is this just 5 min quickset?
And does this even work?
I did it because that's what he wanted. It does seem to dry faster but 4-5 hours in and it was still way too soft for sanding.
Props to you for the extra effort of proving the keyboard warriors wrong. Leave it to the those commenters from the last video who put in zero effort and trying to defend a patch designed for people with zero skills on patching drywall. I guarantee that almost nobody who watched either of these videos will buy this product unless your goal is to patch something with minimal effort. BTW, I was sad that I didn't hear anymore "coats of pain" jokes. That was by far my favorite part of the last video.
A lot of people missed the pain
Looks like a patch a landlord would do for a rental
I'm mostly here from watching and learning skating from Ben and now i'm doing little handyworks at home ROFL
Would it be better to stick that sticker at the back sort of backing thing then build the mud up front to get more consistent,non-sagging surface before the top coating?
Oh wow thank you! You just saved me so much money and hassle!!
Good job on you for proving drywall bums will remain drywall bums. Blowout patches are infinitely easier than a sticker.
The first time I noticed this in HD I knew it was junk. Aside from the inability to hide well you also have an issue of someone trying to hang a picture on it 15yrs from now. Good luck ever pitting a picture frame nail there. A 2x2 project panel and some mud is about the same price and a way better option.
Motorhead sticker over the hole would have been a better patch.
Every one likes Motorhead.
Lemmy for Life!!
Come on man, you gotta give this product a fair chance! Currently Mercury is in retrograde, negatively influencing the integrity of the patch, also the paint was very likely not produced within the months of february-march which is, quite frankly, absolutely unacceptable.
I looked at that dumb thing this weekend, had visions of the first video you did on it. Even for the bargain basement repairs I am doing on the fist sized holes caused by "the movers" in our rental property, I will stick with the 7x7 mesh tape sticky patch and a few coats of mud
Good enough for your college rental before the landlord comes over!
Nice to see you responding to the comments. I'm sure the people that had doubted your original results have been convinced by you PHD in Drywallogy/Mudification. BTW. you said doo-doo. 2:21
LOL ROFLMAO... ahaha you're doin it AGAIN damn bro, gotta give u props for that, it was funny watchin u beat that drum of a patch with the ball peen
When I was young, my pop taught me to burn the tip of the needle before popping blisters. Prevents infections he said.
Thanks! Nicely done.
Another great video. I do know that drywall work is harder than it looks. It takes a lot of practice. The guy who uses this patch has no idea how to do the repair and is just hoping to get his rental deposit back.
I think their idea is the initial paint layer is the same thickness as the layer you peel off after the initial paint. Then two more coat will cover everything up. Maybe in an idea situation, it will work. But 99% time it won’t. And it’s not much easier than just do regular way
This was more than the ideal situation and no, it won't be covered up. Flower power forever!
@@vancouvercarpenter what I wonder is when these companies test these products if they test them with the drywall flat on a table vs on a wall because as soon as you turned the drywall to the side (like a wall) the patch showed the bubble really well (which defeats the purpose of a patch to begin with)
If you could make a version of this that was sand-able, you could retire. It would be like the SharkBite of the drywall world.
That patch would be great for section eight housing.
Swear to G, I thought this was an April Fools video. Had to check the upload date. So much fun.
Vancouver Carpenter: Smashing holes edition
I'm a little late to the party but thought I'd still put my 2 cents in. Now first off not a fan of these patches, but as for the paint side of things; I should preface by saying I work on a military base servicing 4500 units and see an average of 10-25 work orders a day depending on the time of year. I'm personally not a fan of zinsser products; you kept trying to build up paint around the edges of the patch but in my experience zinsser procucts tend to be very thin/diluted, we only get zinsser when we can't get our hands on kilz. I find kilz has the best coverage, adhesion, and is much thicker then the competitors. I think you would have had better luck with kilz, I also think 2 coats before peeling and 1 coat after may have provided better results then 1 before and 2 after, but I don't expect you to do this a 3rd time to find out lol. Either way for these "door knob" patches I think I'll stick with the tried and true do it right and install a door bump on the wall to ensure I don't have to come back every year or so when a new resident puts a hole in the wall because the spring bump failed over time. Either way, interesting video, actually made me think about whether the convenience of the patch installation was worth it; I don't think so but I did think about it.
slum lords will love these
I bought this pre mix all purpose mud from certainteed calls easi-fil. i used it to skim coat a wall. after it dried and i proceedd to prime it with zesnier primer, it revealed a TON of micro bubble holes in the skim coat. so i had to go back and cover them all up. is their a way to prevent it? i used the premix straight out of the pale.
add some water to thin the mix. also mud will bubble when going over existing painted surface. The paint seals the wall, forcing the moisture in the mix to come back out thus creating the bubble. What I do is after mudding the area, leave it for a minute before you skim/remove the material. This gives it a chance to work/stick to the wall, doesn't get rid of all the pit holes but helps. Then go over again with a tight skim coat to fill in the holes.
@@andrewcarr2431 i've had an issue with skimming painted walls too, didn't matter how many times i've skimmed it, the bubbles still came in, what I did to mitigate that was skim coat the whole wall with a tight skim, then by the time i finished that wall, i skimmed over it again ( while still wet) and that seemed to work out the bubbles.
I was really hoping for a final sanding pass with something larger, like a hammer..
Imagine a non-professional home owner trying to duplicate this result.
Nice! Thanks for another video
How hard are they to remove? Might be a good option for longer term temporary patches. Especially long term home renovations haha
why would someone not patch it "right" in the first place? This is just horrible! Thank you for showing this
Drywaller to Drywaller.......this shit don't work 😅. You're awesome for doing another one
I definitely couldn’t use this in my house. I can patch a wall with mud and it can be near perfect but will still look at all the time
LOL you did it again!! 😆 Like the first time it was like asking a brain surgeon to remove a tumor with an ice cream scoop! The response ... it wasn't scientific enough!!! 🤪 Remove a tumor with a teaspoon and be real careful this time ... results .... still ☠ 🤣🤣
Can’t believe I’m basically watching videos of paint drying on RUclips. Also you seem to have some water damage on your garage door. 😂
Thanks bro you’re a legend.
Can you try one of those patches that come with a wire mesh. Also I think this flower patch is better than most homeowner patches, and probably easier to fix, but it doesn't belong in a pro or even semi pros toolbox. Basically, if you own a 6 inch knife you shouldn't own these
What if you trimmed the hole to to except the whole thicker center part? Then, after two coats of primer, sanded the edges of the patch, and then added another coat of primer, then paint?
At that point why not just patch it with some mud and tape?
Naaah.Navaho.. this is crap. I'm with you on this.
Not investing in the DAP patch empire. Thanks for saving me some money!
Not enough pain jokes this time
I know. Sorry. It's because I didn't read the instructions again so I forgot.
We were just hoping for an easy fix. Thank for being so thorough
Good test!
I most definitely agree with VC...but, put it in perspective...as VC has already said. This product is marketed for the un-handy homeowner. A person who doesn't own a drywall knife or has ever done anything more than paint and can't afford to hire someone to do it. Most people have a old can of paint and a brush to put this patch on and be happy it isn't a gaping hole. I would call it a win for DAP and a win for the un-handy homeowner...but, not for me personally!
Who the fuck thought this had a chance of working and wanted him to re-try this patch? 😂😂😂😂😂
I wonder how well it would work under a skim coat.
Hey Ben a 1/2 lb of mud would help hiding that. lol cheers
Landlord special. Maybe you need to paint the wall 32 times before you peal it off then Maybe but I doubt it
Hardware store recommended this. Wish I woulda seen this. A piece of tape would be better. Now I gotta a paint covers sticker. I'm not real handy but I try. Now I gotta go get a real patch kit and do it over again. If it seems too good to be true yada.
That would work fine for several small holes in my basement ceiling, but at Home Depot they are $16.48 each
Hi there, I've learned a lot watching your drywalleryest videos but I would really love to see some videos on the following: One, how do you know when you're done? I feel like I've been way too much of a perfectionist but I just don't know when to stop. Some of your videos I couldn't tell that you were leaving a little liftoff marks, so I kept trying to get "perfect" or near perfect surface before sanding. Then I saw one of your later ones where you used side lighting to see where you needed to sand. Also I have a real mess of plumbing in my basement. You talk about lipstick on a pig, this is eyeshadow on a warthog. I have a lot of pipes downstairs that I've been trying to mud around. some are really tough, a couple curve out from the ceiling or wall, that is the curve is within the drywall making it super hard to fill. So I wonder what you would do for that. Similarly I have some other pipes that are barely above the drywall in the ceiling (actually 1/8" copper pipes that sit within the drywall thickness) or it even slightly angles downward from above to below. I don't have any options right now for redoing the plumbing, just trying to figure out if I should try to cover it with drywall/mud or box around it (it's a LOT). I even thought about installing a drop ceiling but it's already low, at 89" with no flooring. The remodelers did such a terrible job of taping and not-really-mudding so I'm having to sand and re-mud a bunch. Ugh. Any tips? Would you please do one or two videos about when to stop, and how to drywall/finish around pipes going in the wall or ceiling?
Hey, I just read your comment, I'm a taper and I thought I'd try to give you some advice, not sure if you've fixed it yet but if not I can give you some tips, as for coating, Ben has some really good videos on liftoffs, you need a pole sander to sand large areas, my workflow is typically a round sander with 100 grit between coats, then I use my black widow for joints and pole sander for angles and a gator quick sheet sander for hand stuff, you only use a sponge for small stuff that other stuff doesn't fit in or 3way corners. Getting a perfect finish before sanding isn't difficult you just need the right workflow, your first coat is like your fill coat, your second coat is your smoothing coat, sand between both quickly but generally you get it pretty good after two coats, flat and pretty good then you pull a tight skim over it to get your perfect coat before sanding. The sanding step is critical because once you prime you're kind of locked in to what you've done, pole sander is essential, preferably a rectangle one with spongebacked sand paper, you could also use a circle sander with a sponge built in and 150 or 180 grit, it isn't ideal but easier to use so long as you're careful of scratching, the small scratches will dissapear but be careful of dinging up the edge of the sandpaper because they'll make large scratches that will show through, I dislike seeing the scratch pattern even though it will be covered by paint texture because I find I can't find defects as easily.
As for your basement, I don't quite get what you mean by pipes the thickness of the drywall and the pipes, I mean I think you mean you have pipes hanging between and lower than the joists that are pushing on the back of the drywall making it bulge out that you've tried to mud over, if that's the case, and the ceiling you have is a total mess, I'd cut the places the drywall is bulging out and overlay everything, if you mean the pipes hang down so much that they go through the ceiling then I'd use a flush cutter and cut a very square channel for them to sit in an then put a rectangle of trim around them to hide the edge, you could also look at videos on how to build bulkheads if they're low enough but I think you're opposed to that I kind of think it's the first because you've tried to mud over the bulge. Anytime you have something poking through the drywall and you have broken board you have to cut out and use setting mud to fill it in and tape it, you can also build up quite a bit with setting mud if you float out a really wide area. I'd cut all the broken or bowed out board out, just the paper at the front and the broken board, leave the backing which is easy you just cut the surface of the drywall and dig the broken bits out and then fill it in with durabond or sheetrock and fibatape it and then float it out, do that to the whole sealing and then skim it, use a 2 or 3 foot skimming blade and a paint roller, Ben has some videos doing that, or if you're good with a hawk and trowel then just skim it out, first one way then the other, if you don't have practice then keep them to pretty tight skims and do that a few times sanding in between just to knock of high points, if you use the tool right it will get you flat result because you can see based on cutting in where it isn't flat
Oh and if you mean you have pipes coming out perpendicular/normal to the wall then just use setting mud to fill the hole, mesh tape or fiba on around the hole like a stop sign then cover tight to the pipe and float it out and sand flat then wipe the mud off the pipe and it looks great.
What about doing a skim mud coat instead of paint after the first primer layer
Looks fine to me
I'd use it in one of my rentals if I didn't know any other way how.
We're you using my best electrical screwdriver to open that can?
What about the metal mesh square stick on patches they seem to work good for outlet holes there quick but do take a couple coats of spackle . I'm a skateboarder by the way. Ben
I will try one :)
Hilarious that so many thought you were unfair!!
when we getting a part 3?
You beat the drywall patch to death. There aint no more. The tenet should lose they damage deposit on this one. Passable in a low rental but not so much in high end market
I would bet this would be more than acceptable to renters, who I am sure would be the ones buying something like this.
The only way to make that less noticeable would be apply texture, demo, then redo the drywall and hang a cabinet over it. Sacrilege.
I am surprised you went to Harvard, I figured you were more of a UBC kind of a guy.😉
Hey don't knock the drywall smarts. I have a PhD and honestly the process behind doing quality is shockingly complex and deep.
Adding coats of mud, to a patch that is supposed to preclude having to use mud
👍👍👍
I don't think anything can beat the tried and true trade methods. These things are for quick n nasties and that's about it.