00:28 - Loosen the wheel mounting bolts. 00:48 - Remove the front wheels. 00:54 - Unscrew the stabilizer link upper fastening. Use an end bit №5 and a combination spanner №19 01:42 - Disconnect the ABS sensor. Disconnect the brake hose holder from the shock absorber strut. 02:07 - Use a socket №18 02:29 - Use a special puller to take the tie rod end out 03:00 - Unscrew the brake caliper fastening. Use a socket №21 03:52 - Remove the brake caliper. Attach the brake caliper to the suspension or the body by a wire on Volkswagen Passat B6 without disconnecting the brake hose to avoid the brake system leakage. 04:16 - Use a torx №T30. Unscrew the brake disc mounting bolts and remove it 04:44 - Use a socket №24. Unscrew the wheel hub axle nut 05:04 - Use a socket №17. Disconnect the spherical joint from the arm 05:41 - Remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub. 05:48 - Use a socket №18 and a torx № M14. Unscrew the lower fastener of the shock absorber strut 06:30 - Disconnect the steering knuckle from the shock absorber strut. 07:10 - Remove the upper seal from the firewall. Remove the protective cover. 07:50 - Use a socket №13. Unscrew the upper fastening of the shock absorber strut. Remove the suspension strut. 08:50 - Using a special tool take out the spring. 08:55 - Set the shock absorber strut on the spring compressor tool. 09:00 - Note that when using a spring compressor, spring coils need to be securely gripped, compressing the spring on the opposite sides. 09:06 - Use a combination spanner №21 and a hex-nut wrench №7. Unscrew the top fastening of the shock strut mount. 09:25 - Remove the top mount, the support bearing and the upper spring cup.Remove the spring and shock absorber dust cap and the bump stop. 10:06 - Before installing new shock absorbers it is strongly recommended to pump them over for 3-5 times manually. 10:18 - Install a new shock absorber on a special fixture for further mounting of the spring. 11:15 - Install the spring. 11:30 - Install the dust sleeve and the bump stop on the new shock absorber. 11:40 - Install the top mount, the strut mount bearing and the upper spring cup.Compress the spring. 12:10 - Use a combination spanner №21 and a hex-nut wrench №7. Tighten the upper fastener of the shock absorber strut mount. 12:50 - Install the shock strut into the wheel arch. 13:12 - Use a socket №13. Tighten the shock strut top mount. 13:50 - Install the protective cover. Install the upper seal on the firewall. 15:10 - Install the steering knuckle onto the shock absorber strut. 15:54 - Use a socket №18 and a torx № M14. Tighten the lower fastening of the shock absorber. 16:05 - Install the drive shaft into the wheel hub. 16:35 - Use a socket №17. Tighten the ball joint fastener. 16:55 - Use a socket №24. Screw the wheel hub axle nut. 17:10 - Use a torx №T30. Install the brake disc and secure it. 17:50 - Install the brake caliper and fix it. Use a socket №21. 18:52 - Connect the brake hose fastener to the shock absorber strut. 19:05 - Connect the ABS sensor. 19:20 - Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten it. Use a socket №18. 19:45 - Tighten the stabilizer link upper fastening. Use an end bit №5 and a combination spanner №19
Thank you so much for this video. The simple trick of spreading the steering knuckle clamp or mount with a punch before inserting the strut saved me so much time and grief. I replaced my struts, changed the springs, new brakes and new stabilizer bars and turned the rotors all myself. Probably saved me $500. Thanks again!!! :)
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to show how us how to do it. A BIG WARNING TO PEOPLE NOT USED TO DOING JOBS LIKE THIS. IT IS NOT AS EASY AS SHOWN IN THE VIDEO. Yes the video shows you what is involved but do not forget that you will be dealing with parts that have been on there for years. I replaced a broken spring on my 2006 Passat, it was very difficult. The allen key head had rounded off in the drop link so the nut was just turning. I had to use the angle grinder to cut the nut off. The bottom bolt that clamps the strut in place was seized and needed some serious attention with a 2lb lump hammer to get it out. The hub bolt on VW's is VERY VERY tight. Unless your car has been looked after you might even struggle to get the actual wheel off in the first place. I make sure to put a bit of copper grease on the studs when refitting. Worst bit was getting the strut back down through the hole. Took ages.
Very good comment by Mike. And do your self a favour and buy new stabilizer link from start. I also had to use the angle grinder to cut the stabilizer link (0:54). If you having trouble with the stabilizer link when you chaninging shocker dont bother about the upper fastening, focus on doing a nice jobb when you cut the stabilizer link from the lower fastening (if you buying new ones). You dont need to work/cut the upper fastening becouse you have new on the shockers you replace. Good luck.
Mike Linehan I would not attempt it but thanks to your video I now know where the light misting of oil is coming from when they mentioned it as an advisory on my MOT.
Thank you for your feedback! It is our top priority to receive comments as positive as yours. Be sure to subscribe to our channel if you don`t want to miss out on more useful videos in the nearest future. Best regards, Autodoc team!
The mechanic in this video...20-30 minutes, ME= 1 hours of hope while trying to get the caliper off, then 4 hours of tears and rusted frustration before finally hiring my neighbor mechanic friend to finish it OR me off.
Mean while back in the real world you'll spend half an hour with the blow torch and hammer beating the crap out of the lower pinch bolt.(Those aluminium hub carriers know how to get a good hold on steel bolts).Then you'll find that you'll have to cut those 3 top bolts out because the caged nuts break loose underneath and the spring blocks the way of getting a socket on them.Classic VW -Audi
From the driver's side, everything is exactly the same. So that the brake hoses also do not interfere, we remove them from the shock absorber together with the caliper. AUTODOC
@@autodocuk 1. Loosen the bolt, but leave the last few threads on there so the tierod doesn't fall off, take two small hammers, and hit the part where the tierod end goes through the hub from opposite sides so the hammers meet in the middle. The shock will always make it come loose, as it pushes against the cone of the tierod end. You won't risk damaging any rubber doing it this way.
So is it mandatory to remove the knuckle on the passenger side ? I was able to remove the driver side without doing this but got stuck on the passenger side is this why ?
@@autodocuk okay .. and sorry ifor asking another question here mm but I replaced the driver side and it came out and the knuckle droped enough to slide the strut out . But on the passenger side the strut came out to a certain point and I felt as if the knuckle just had no play or give to finish letting the strut slide out .m any advice ?
you never want to change suspension/braking parts on only one side of the front or rear. usually if one part fails the other side will also fail very soon. save yourself a headache and some money down the road by changing both now lol
Thank you for your feedback! In this case, please, change the operating modes on the gearbox - from the neutral to the functional (switch on the gearbox), by doing so, you will fix an axle and it won't rotate. Best regards, Autodoc Team.
FYI. Take it to a shop. Unless you got a lift and perhaps a buddy it's a real pain in the rear end. I spent 5 hours getting to the first strut. It wouldn't budge from the spindle assembly so I put it back together and wasted a good night doing it. It's a straightforward process, but these videos don't account for cars that have been on the road for years. I'll pay my local German repair shop to do all 4. Also, if your has numerous miles you might as well do the ball joint, brakes, and sway bar ends since you remove all these components in the install.
Thank you for the feedback! The replacement process is quite individual and varies by type of each car. Our videos are the informative ones, so some stages of the replacement procedure may be omitted or done before we started the shooting in the interest of time. So it may look so easy at first. Best regards, Autodoc.
lol you teach people how to replace auto parts without provides torque? thats why soooo many garage dont properly torque the bolts , because you think its not important
Omg.I have replaced both front shocks on the b7 and from what i have seen in this video you reused the old fasteners and dust boot and bump stop and top mount.You also failed to torque any of the fasteners and show how the hub to drive shaft bolt is angle tightened a further 90 degrees. All fasteners used on the front shock must be replaced as a matter of course as there tty.To my disgust i notice you also failed to fit a genuine shock.
Thank you for your feedback! We make our videos to give people the basic idea on some of the details in the whole procedure. That is why some parts of any tutorial can differ for obvious reasons. Best regards, Autodoc!
If you are doing this job an you don't know that you are supposed to torque the hardware you should not be doing the work. This is obviously a demonstration not an technical manual replacement.
@@JohnKaufmann Ahhhh no this is a How to replace the front shocks.If it was only a demonstration it should have said it was only a demonstration and that the viewer may find out all the technical specs themselves elsewhere.
@@ianpurcell7266 I find autodoc tutorials marginally useful. They show things in large with little attention to detail. They usually show the easiest side. For example, in this video they do not show how to remove rain cover on the driver side (likely involves dealing with wipers). In another video like the one showing how to replace the front control arm on B6, the car does not have the 2.5L engine and so the bolt does not hit the engine oil pan on the passenger side. They do not show the most difficult part - the driver side where the bolt hits AT oil pan. And so on...
![How to change shock absorber on MERCEDES W245 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TzlWe_wro0k/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to change shock absorber on MERCEDES W245 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/tr.png)
![How to change a front shock strut on VW PASSAT B7 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/1.gif)
00:28 - Loosen the wheel mounting bolts.
00:48 - Remove the front wheels.
00:54 - Unscrew the stabilizer link upper fastening. Use an end bit №5 and a combination spanner №19
01:42 - Disconnect the ABS sensor. Disconnect the brake hose holder from the shock absorber strut.
02:07 - Use a socket №18
02:29 - Use a special puller to take the tie rod end out
03:00 - Unscrew the brake caliper fastening. Use a socket №21
03:52 - Remove the brake caliper. Attach the brake caliper to the suspension or the body by a wire on Volkswagen Passat B6 without disconnecting the brake hose to avoid the brake system leakage.
04:16 - Use a torx №T30. Unscrew the brake disc mounting bolts and remove it
04:44 - Use a socket №24. Unscrew the wheel hub axle nut
05:04 - Use a socket №17. Disconnect the spherical joint from the arm
05:41 - Remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub.
05:48 - Use a socket №18 and a torx № M14. Unscrew the lower fastener of the shock absorber strut
06:30 - Disconnect the steering knuckle from the shock absorber strut.
07:10 - Remove the upper seal from the firewall. Remove the protective cover.
07:50 - Use a socket №13. Unscrew the upper fastening of the shock absorber strut. Remove the suspension strut.
08:50 - Using a special tool take out the spring.
08:55 - Set the shock absorber strut on the spring compressor tool.
09:00 - Note that when using a spring compressor, spring coils need to be securely gripped, compressing the spring on the opposite sides.
09:06 - Use a combination spanner №21 and a hex-nut wrench №7. Unscrew the top fastening of the shock strut mount.
09:25 - Remove the top mount, the support bearing and the upper spring cup.Remove the spring and shock absorber dust cap and the bump stop.
10:06 - Before installing new shock absorbers it is strongly recommended to pump them over for 3-5 times manually.
10:18 - Install a new shock absorber on a special fixture for further mounting of the spring.
11:15 - Install the spring.
11:30 - Install the dust sleeve and the bump stop on the new shock absorber.
11:40 - Install the top mount, the strut mount bearing and the upper spring cup.Compress the spring.
12:10 - Use a combination spanner №21 and a hex-nut wrench №7. Tighten the upper fastener of the shock absorber strut mount.
12:50 - Install the shock strut into the wheel arch.
13:12 - Use a socket №13. Tighten the shock strut top mount.
13:50 - Install the protective cover. Install the upper seal on the firewall.
15:10 - Install the steering knuckle onto the shock absorber strut.
15:54 - Use a socket №18 and a torx № M14. Tighten the lower fastening of the shock absorber.
16:05 - Install the drive shaft into the wheel hub.
16:35 - Use a socket №17. Tighten the ball joint fastener.
16:55 - Use a socket №24. Screw the wheel hub axle nut.
17:10 - Use a torx №T30. Install the brake disc and secure it.
17:50 - Install the brake caliper and fix it. Use a socket №21.
18:52 - Connect the brake hose fastener to the shock absorber strut.
19:05 - Connect the ABS sensor.
19:20 - Connect the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten it. Use a socket №18.
19:45 - Tighten the stabilizer link upper fastening. Use an end bit №5 and a combination spanner №19
Lower strut fastening - SPLINE BIT M14 NOT TORX
Thank you so much for this video. The simple trick of spreading the steering knuckle clamp or mount with a punch before inserting the strut saved me so much time and grief. I replaced my struts, changed the springs, new brakes and new stabilizer bars and turned the rotors all myself. Probably saved me $500. Thanks again!!! :)
Thank you for charing with your experience.
Stay tuned with us.
AUTODOC
Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to show how us how to do it.
A BIG WARNING TO PEOPLE NOT USED TO DOING JOBS LIKE THIS. IT IS NOT AS EASY AS SHOWN IN THE VIDEO. Yes the video shows you what is involved but do not forget that you will be dealing with parts that have been on there for years.
I replaced a broken spring on my 2006 Passat, it was very difficult.
The allen key head had rounded off in the drop link so the nut was just turning. I had to use the angle grinder to cut the nut off.
The bottom bolt that clamps the strut in place was seized and needed some serious attention with a 2lb lump hammer to get it out.
The hub bolt on VW's is VERY VERY tight.
Unless your car has been looked after you might even struggle to get the actual wheel off in the first place. I make sure to put a bit of copper grease on the studs when refitting.
Worst bit was getting the strut back down through the hole. Took ages.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Very good comment by Mike. And do your self a favour and buy new stabilizer link from start. I also had to use the angle grinder to cut the stabilizer link (0:54). If you having trouble with the stabilizer link when you chaninging shocker dont bother about the upper fastening, focus on doing a nice jobb when you cut the stabilizer link from the lower fastening (if you buying new ones). You dont need to work/cut the upper fastening becouse you have new on the shockers you replace. Good luck.
Mike Linehan I would not attempt it but thanks to your video I now know where the light misting of oil is coming from when they mentioned it as an advisory on my MOT.
Do not use copper grease on the wheel stud man. It's dangerous
The level of organization and standardization in this video is remarkable. Thank you for taking the time to make this content.
Thank you for your feedback!
It is our top priority to receive comments as positive as yours.
Be sure to subscribe to our channel if you don`t want to miss out on more useful videos in the nearest future.
Best regards, Autodoc team!
The mechanic in this video...20-30 minutes, ME= 1 hours of hope while trying to get the caliper off, then 4 hours of tears and rusted frustration before finally hiring my neighbor mechanic friend to finish it OR me off.
That was a new track rod end . How bad was it to get the old rusty one off.
Mean while back in the real world you'll spend half an hour with the blow torch and hammer beating the crap out of the lower pinch bolt.(Those aluminium hub carriers know how to get a good hold on steel bolts).Then you'll find that you'll have to cut those 3 top bolts out because the caged nuts break loose underneath and the spring blocks the way of getting a socket on them.Classic VW -Audi
I know a lot more on shock absorbers function and replacement. Gee Thanks
For what they cost, I'd replace the top strut bearing whilst I had the shock apart.
Amazing 😎
is the drive side the same i see brake lines in the way
From the driver's side, everything is exactly the same.
So that the brake hoses also do not interfere, we remove them from the shock absorber together with the caliper.
AUTODOC
you may also have a wire for brake pad wear indicator that needs to be disconnected (on the driver side)
Wish I had his patience.
What brand tool do you use for the tie rod removal? Thanks
Thank you for your feedback! The brand for this tool is V3308 VIGOR. Best regards, Autodoc Team!
@@autodocuk 1. Loosen the bolt, but leave the last few threads on there so the tierod doesn't fall off, take two small hammers, and hit the part where the tierod end goes through the hub from opposite sides so the hammers meet in the middle. The shock will always make it come loose, as it pushes against the cone of the tierod end. You won't risk damaging any rubber doing it this way.
Do you need an alignment after this procedure?
Thank you for your comment!
Yes, it is recommended after this replacement to make alignments.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
Can this be the same set up for a 2008 VW Passat 2.0??
Thank you for your feedback! In whole the replacement is similar, but there can be some differences in car construction. Best regards, Autodoc.
So is it mandatory to remove the knuckle on the passenger side ? I was able to remove the driver side without doing this but got stuck on the passenger side is this why ?
For convenience, it is better to remove, but it is possible to do without dismantling.
The replacement should be the same.
AUTODOC
@@autodocuk okay .. and sorry ifor asking another question here mm but I replaced the driver side and it came out and the knuckle droped enough to slide the strut out . But on the passenger side the strut came out to a certain point and I felt as if the knuckle just had no play or give to finish letting the strut slide out .m any advice ?
Ye try that on an 06 plate ceased up solid on everything... 💯% nightmare
Can we change a single shock absorbers or change them together? Thank you.
you never want to change suspension/braking parts on only one side of the front or rear. usually if one part fails the other side will also fail very soon. save yourself a headache and some money down the road by changing both now lol
@@SDKwarrior Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback! Shock absorbers must be changed in pairs on an axle. Best regards, Autodoc.
what track is playing?
How come when I try to remove the axle nut the whole cv axle rotates along with the nut
Thank you for your feedback! In this case, please, change the operating modes on the gearbox - from the neutral to the functional (switch on the gearbox), by doing so, you will fix an axle and it won't rotate. Best regards, Autodoc Team.
Why even bother removing the brake disc?
FYI. Take it to a shop. Unless you got a lift and perhaps a buddy it's a real pain in the rear end. I spent 5 hours getting to the first strut. It wouldn't budge from the spindle assembly so I put it back together and wasted a good night doing it. It's a straightforward process, but these videos don't account for cars that have been on the road for years. I'll pay my local German repair shop to do all 4. Also, if your has numerous miles you might as well do the ball joint, brakes, and sway bar ends since you remove all these components in the install.
You are absolutely right, we will definitely take this into account in the next videos.
AUTODOC
What is an end bit? Different to a hex/Allen bit?
Thank you for your feedback! Please, specify, what end bit you meant. Best regards, Autodoc Team.
End bit No 5 what is that?
@@autodocuk end bit No5 is that just a triple square bit or a torx bit?
I am also trying to figure out what the End Bit No. 5 is
yes yes, so easy maybe only on this video... my passat is fucking rusty shit nothing goes so smooth as on that video :)
Thank you for the feedback! The replacement process is quite individual and varies by type of each car. Our videos are the informative ones, so some stages of the replacement procedure may be omitted or done before we started the shooting in the interest of time. So it may look so easy at first. Best regards, Autodoc.
my next car gonna be a Toyota.
Thank you for for your feedback! Excellent choice !) Best regards, Autodoc.
Same. VW engineering is intentionally crazy so that few can service the car themselves - need to take it to the stealers.
Hello sir your videos are great but I need one help from you.
You make a video of your shock assembly machine and send me on WhatsApp or Instagram.
Thank you for your feedback! Please, turn to our website, and we will be able to help you with the replacement. Best regards, Autodoc.
He is removing way too many parts that dont need to be removed. For example, you should not need to touch any brake components
Yeah I done it without removing brakes and track rod end
Why mechanics look so serious? :(
Its a stressful job
They are concentrating on their work.
lol you teach people how to replace auto parts without provides torque? thats why soooo many garage dont properly torque the bolts , because you think its not important
Omg.I have replaced both front shocks on the b7 and from what i have seen in this video you reused the old fasteners and dust boot and bump stop and top mount.You also failed to torque any of the fasteners and show how the hub to drive shaft bolt is angle tightened a further 90 degrees. All fasteners used on the front shock must be replaced as a matter of course as there tty.To my disgust i notice you also failed to fit a genuine shock.
Thank you for your feedback! We make our videos to give people the basic idea on some of the details in the whole procedure. That is why some parts of any tutorial can differ for obvious reasons. Best regards, Autodoc!
@@autodocuk With an answer like that it would be best not to follow your tutorials at all.
If you are doing this job an you don't know that you are supposed to torque the hardware you should not be doing the work. This is obviously a demonstration not an technical manual replacement.
@@JohnKaufmann Ahhhh no this is a How to replace the front shocks.If it was only a demonstration it should have said it was only a demonstration and that the viewer may find out all the technical specs themselves elsewhere.
@@ianpurcell7266 I find autodoc tutorials marginally useful. They show things in large with little attention to detail. They usually show the easiest side. For example, in this video they do not show how to remove rain cover on the driver side (likely involves dealing with wipers). In another video like the one showing how to replace the front control arm on B6, the car does not have the 2.5L engine and so the bolt does not hit the engine oil pan on the passenger side. They do not show the most difficult part - the driver side where the bolt hits AT oil pan. And so on...