POV SURF (raw) | AMAZING HAWAII ! Cutbacks, Floaters & Turns
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Amazing Fun GoPro surf session in Hawaii! This mornings surf was beautiful, there was some good waves right as I was paddling out, then nothing for about 15 minuets. Then got to surf in some Hawaii rain and caught a few fun waves. Riding my standard shortboard, 5'11" 18.5" 2 1/4", 25 Liters.
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this session was supper fun
GoPro Hero Black
POV Surf : Crazy Fun Pointbreak on a FISH and other!
Good Surf Raw : Turns, Barrels and Bails
HEAVY Surf at PIPELINE (RAW FOOTAGE)
Waking up to a PERFECT Beach Break!
The kook Show
Ah, man. That looks so mellow and fun.
yeah, this place is sick. There is a slab outside that can get pretty heavy, but goes into deep water quick. Then there is another little slab inside that will bowl up and run along the reef. Catches wind swell too, so whenever the trades blow (which is almost year around) there will be waves. Come surf it
Id to anything for a surf in hawaii. Looks unreal
Good luck getting thru the pos locals just to get one wave. They literally believe they own that shit there. Like if you tell em "get fucked" and ride they'll try to fight you and shit
@@chrisbauman2562 for real? Disappointeeeed. They don't care about tourism?
@@panos4800 atleast thats how it was for my visit and a lot of others i know
@@panos4800 it’s true, they’re literally racist towards non locals lol
@@chrisbauman2562 Maybe don’t say ‘get fucked’ if they are local and you aren’t there would be no reason for you to use cuss even if it’s playful banter.
Man this is beautiful, I’m glad I found your channel
Glad you found it too, I am going to an epic, beautiful point break next week. So, I’ll have a new video in about 2 weeks 🤙🤙
Dude you seriously deserve more subs absolutely amazing
Thank you Mateo! I have been out with an injury but hope to get some more edits out soon. 🤙
Yeah! Great session!
Thank you!
Wow, exceptional even for you! Love surfing in the rain, that reef looks so shallow!
Mother Nature produced this day!
Was watching this to try and fall asleep... then I saw how gnarly the reef was and was like ahh no we ain't sleeping now
The water looks so beautiful underwater!
I can’t stop watching this vid u definitely deserve more subs.
Awesome video! When I saw your sub count my heart stopped, honestly you deserve to have like 1 million 🤙 🏄♂️
Thanks Morgan! I need to post more, just hard when you have to rely on surf conditions and crowds. More too come before the end of winter for sure.
@@justsurf185 yeah! same thing with my channel pretty tough when it’s flat or terrible.
*dreamy!*
goals
Yewww!!!! Keep Rippin
Amazing video. I feel like I’m surfing again
gotta love pks
Following from San Francisco, California 🤙🤙🤙 nice bottom there (🥲🥲🥲) 🏄♂️🏄♂️
Nice sesh broo, keep on ripping!!
Thanks Braddah
my local break🤩
1:58 the reason why he keeps going under is because he is avoiding the waves to not get swept back or is basically going under the wave.
Yep! Duck Diving so the wave goes over me, and doesn’t drag me back.
Tanks for this video bro 👊
Yewwww🤙
Wave @ 7:14 👌🏽
Floaters awesome
Wave at 11:04
Felt that in my ❤️
Hate getting wet from the rain when I'm surfing
Haha!
the POV is sweet, we have the same rocks on the giant's causeway in Ireland!
I hope to surf Ireland someday!
Looks so fun! Awesome stuff.
May I ask why you had to paddle so far to get out? Could you not get in the water from a point further out to save paddling as much?
Yeah, you can get in the water up the point in front of the hotel. But, the tide was a little low and the spots you jump off are a little sketchy when it’s like that.
There was also a lot of Wana (aka urchin) up there at this time.
I moved from the coastal south to way inland, up by the Great lakes in the US. I had a dream last night, that I was surfing on a holiday I don't know the name of, in a place I've never been. I was a woman, a girl who is only allowed to surf on special occasions. My skin was brown, from the sun or because of my ancestry, I don't know. My hair was thick and wavy. The Rock was there, watching people in the line up and encouraging people who came ashore dejected they missed a good wave. I only caught one before I woke up, but I haven't felt that sensation in years. I hope that woman I was continues to feel it, over and over again for the rest of her life. Hang loose y'all 🤙🏻
Surf the Great Lakes???
My wife actually learned to surf on the Great Lakes, when she was a kid before moving to Hawaii.
I sleep like a baby hearing this
I know, it’s great 😂
Fantastic stuff. Its so crazy seeing all the jagged reef just right there under the water. If you got caught up top and took the fall I don't see how you could survive getting pounded against that stuff. Much respect
Yeah, it’s sketchy. You have to make sure to clean the scrapes really good as well, Or you can get all kinds of gnarly infections. Usually able to avoid it though.
Yo bro your vids is just so fun ! One more follower 🙌🏾
Thank you!
Beautiful amazing place 🙌
It really is!
Let’s gooo PK’s is the best
Cheee🤙🤙
Cool.
I used to like centers and acid drop a lot. PKs was a little local for a howlie at the time.
Haha yeah, Centers is probably the most local now. Can always go left at Centers though, gets shallow quick 😱
Irado o vídeo. 👊✌🔥🔥🔥
Out in poipu on Kauai? Love that place man, shipwrecks is 🔥🔥🔥
I thought this chanel would have over 100k wow this needs more attention keep up the great content
Thank you! Just getting started🤙
nice video bro
Thank you Roberto🤙🤙
i know this is kind of a stupid question but this is coming from someone who doesn't surf, are sharks a real danger when surfing or are they something that just gets a bad rep in movies
Yeah, they can be pretty aggressive. They usually stay out of most line ups (where waves break) though. Can’t have a safari without lions I rekon
May I know the secret of paddling on shortboard, whenever I paddle for a wave, the nose will nosedive, its been a great obstacle for me
Make sure your balancing on the bottom portion of your ribs. This will allow you to arch your upper back if you start to nose dive. Also, you knees should roughly be where your back foot will land. Hope that helps. Surfing a lot is the best way to learn.
sheesh this makes me wanan lern how to surf
nice.
Thank you! Cheers!
Pks?
🤙🏼
That was amazing! Are you using a mouth mount for this footage?
Yes!
How big was the wave this day?
2 foot swell, 3-4 foot waves. Maybe a couple bigger ones. 🤙👍
Looks hella relaxing I surf in San Diego where the water is 58 degrees
🥶🥶
I live in cali too the water is freezing bro. Wetsuit 100% even in summer haha
It’s better now lol
@@georgewilber9906 true
My water gets down to 40f
Love south side
What island were you on? I can't tell?
This video is so sick dude!!💯💯keep it up I definitely subscribe to your channel
is that pks?
Yep,
id kill to surf in hawaii. looks fun
pipeline is the best area to surf in the afternoon!
Sick dude🤙🏻
Daniel Hagan thanks braddah!
🤙
very good ;-)
Thank you Snappy 🤙
Bro u got barreled for a sec nice
I tried
I live on the big island
10:20 is what i live for
Goofy gang
Super sick man!
Thank you! This video turned out pretty good🤙
@@justsurf185 yeah the quality is awesome! I wish I could surf in Hawaii haha
Also, what kind of board are you using??
This water...... 🥰
I know! Such a blessing
What board brand is that it’s unreal
Nice content! Good job 👌
Thank you! 👍 it’s a lot of work. I’m going to start posting some more videos soon.
Hey dude what part of Hawaii is that? I wanna go there so bad to surf
This spot is Southside of Kauai🤙
Nice
is this the big island?
Crazy
Where is this
South Side Kauai
there's no one in the line up... 😳
Portlock?
Just got to say this look super sharks
Sharky
Haha, this spot isn’t too bad. It’s pretty shallow so they stay outside the reef
Where is this?
Is that cold ?
Nah, warm. I think the water is like 80-f
@@justsurf185 lucky it 58 in my area
@@labs6275 yeah, it’s nice. I’m from SoCal so 58 was the norm.
what go pro is this filmed on ?
Not sure, sorry. An older one ☝️
Does anyone have advice for going for a snap backside that helped them
Deep bottom turn, go up towards the lip a little earlier than you think
In my experience all maneuvers start with the bottom turn. A lot of times going backside, I need to bottom turn higher on the face, hold the bottom turn for longer then I think & then always look down at my tail or where I bottom turned from as soon as I go for the snap
@@justsurf185 so you go to the bottom flats of the wave for the turn or try to stay a little higher
@@cades.clips101 it depends on the wave and the section. A lot of times i am able to get my board vertical and on the best section when I button turn mid face (this would be for a less steep wave).
You should check out Surf Progression Technique RUclips channel, he has some great coaching videos!
Nice vids. Where do you wear your camera?
Hold it in my mouth. It’s like a Mouthguard
12:27 Who else thought they saw a shark?
Haha, just a friend
Amazing spot, what is your weight?
I weigh 152lbs 👍
Sicklkk
Tanks braddah
Got a repaired ding that that sticker would fit perfectly over where can I buy one
Send you address to my Instagram DM. I’ll send you a couple
@jstsurf
Local realmente muito bonito! Queria pode morar perto de um lugar assim
O ruim é que tem pedra pa Caraí e não é tão fundo se cair feio se fode todo.
@@dinhosilva.6911 Kkkkk tinha que ter algo de errado
Kk as praias de lá tem coral, e a bancada é rasa. Se tu cair da onda vai se cortar todinho kk
@@dinhosilva.6911 né kk
was the water warm?
yeah dude its hawai
Thats a cool short board. What brand?
It is a DriveShaft by Will Scovel, he is a local shaper on Kauai🤙
This board is super fun! It has drive and you can push on the rail, but it’s easy to get the tail to slide as well. Also the tail is a little narrow, I feel like that makes it easier to snap quickly in tight sections. This board is 5’11” and 25 Liters, kind of on the smaller side for me, but I’m able to catch waves super easy still, it paddles really nice.
@@justsurf185 Super sick!!
Looks shallow!!
Suppa shallow 🤯
Is that Waikiki?
No, this is on Kauai.
Muito brabo🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
What GoPro did you use? Trying to grow my surf and skate channel, be sure to drop in!
This is one of the older ones, I think it’s just GoPro Black. The newer ones make a huge difference. I’ll check your channel out🤙🤙
@@justsurf185 nice, thanks!
mahalo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Shoots cuz🤙
i’m getting into surfing but i live in a tourist town and i’m starting as a beginner. it’s not the most fun when there’s a good bit of people always in the water and floating with the waves when we actually have some. 🙁
just be thankful you can still surf almost anytime you want and don't take it for granted. A lot of people are driving 3 hours just to go get a surf and they would love to be in your position. If you are really passionate you can think of ways to avoid the people like waking up really early cause tourists are not willing to do that. I live in a tourist spot too so I know how you feel.
@@jaredcortez6709 yeah, sometimes it sucks. i live in panama city and we literally like never have any waves at all. i am grateful and all but for some good waves i gotta drive 2 hours and i don’t have a car so it tough.
nice vid, where do u surf at? what island?
This is south side Kauai, I try not to call out spots on Kauai, but this spot already has a Cam. It’s called PKs, pretty fun slab outside with a fun left.
@@justsurf185 how deep is it there? it looks kinda shallow
@@wokowoo2579 yeah, it’s shallow. A lot of times your surfing over about 3’.. deeper when it’s bigger surf. Defiantly bump fins on the reef from time to time.
Why u doo duck dives all time
Hi Gero, I have to duck dive to go under the waves. This way they don’t push me back or pick me up then push me down onto the reef. 🤙
Thanks for yours advice
U welle be champion surf me too i serf
Bruh
where was this? looks fun
Southside Kauai :)
Where is that spot
Ryan Arroyo Kauai, I don’t usually film spots on Kauai, and if I do I don’t really name them. This one is a popular spot with a webcam already though.. PKs on the Southside.
Oh ok lol I am on Oahu looks like a fun spot though
Gg man dat’s nice
When your mom won't let you go surfing
Glad I could help🖖
It’s sooo clear😭😭
I know it’s soo beautiful. I have a video where a sea turtle came into the lineup also😍
I’m from Florida so I went to Sebastian to surf and there was dolfins that came right up to me and I’m going there rn lol
great conditions
Yeah it was a beautiful morning 🤙🤙
im down
No se ni como no se o ha comido un tiburón blanco (white shark) en todo el video
I would love to learn how to surf. Unfortunately there’s no big waves here in Miami, Fl. though my question is, how the hell aren’t surfers so scared that a shark might attack? I know it’s a rare thing but it does happen. I want to get rid of that fear. Any professional surfers 🏄♂️ out there?
I surf myself and actually have respect for the ocean and its creatures but when I'm on my board doing a session I don't mind anymore. I just forget about it haha. I don't know how but you have so much fun and are focused on sets and waves that you don't have time to think about sharks anymore i think hahah
@@kistenknacker9479 Thank man, I've always wanted to know the mentally of an actual surfer. 🤙
You don’t need huge waves,just steep ones
Also jellyfish are more scary than sharks for me
You said it yourself, sebaspaz0103: "...it's a rare thing..."
Hey bro I reeeeally like your logo/sticker, is there anywhere i can buy it?
Thanks Luis, I am stoked on it too.
Do you Live in the US?
@@justsurf185 yes I do!
DM Me your address on Insta and I’ll send a few stickers your way. @JstSurf
I wish I could surf...😪😔
acid?
Down the street