Moving A Consumer Unit & Installing a Sub Main
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- Опубликовано: 16 дек 2019
- Moving A Consumer Unit & Installing a Sub Main
#artisanelectrics #consumerunit #electrician
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Being an adult trainee your vids are very interesting and helpful really like the detailed description of components your using and why then seeing the end result awesome keep them coming thanks for sharing
Great thanks for your comments glad you’re enjoying the videos! 👍
WOW Very Nice Look much better than a very old panel. Very interesting digging out and changing new cable to Green panel. I love this. THUMB UP!! Cheer!
Good common sense approach to safe isolation. Just pull it, it’s only a tab👍👍
Thanks a lot for another very informative video. 👌👌👌
Love your videos - always helpful and interesting. One question on this - it looks like you've drilled holes in the joists very close to where they sit on the brickwork. OSG states these should be at between 0.25 and 0.4 x span. I could be wrong but yours looked less than 0.25. Is this something you considered?
Hello, I just subscribed and want to say thank you and that I enjoy your very well put together and instructional videos, just a quick question for you. If you were carrying out a consumer unit replacement and had no way of isolating the supply from the incoming supply, are you as a skilled person allowed to remove the fuse from the head? If not why not as a skilled person? or do you have to contact the DNO to isolate the power supply and incoming fuse, then when done do they have to reinstate all? And is there a cost if so?
Superb job.well done.
Thanks!
I think the supply cable will be a concentric neutral type cable keeps the OD size down. It's like a single solid core (live) with concentric neutrals.
Yeah that’s right it was!
How did you not know that?
It's a 25mm aluminium live core rated to 100 amps with a concentricly wound neutral and earth if its sne
Forgot say
You never put more than 1 point of isolation stickers on your WAGO boxes (if you ha had more than one circuit)
And does the hager SPD get fed from the bottom of the main switch
The lewden one I install is fed from a 6mm off a 32amp MCB in the instructions
Nice video, watching the introduction, something to add to your CV........Sales 😂😂😂
Thanks! 😁
Great job Jordon.. do love them Hager boards.
Thanks!
I pull the main fuse all the time but have my own meter sealing kit to make good when I've finished because thats all the power companies care about.
Paul Murray yes me too! That’s the way forward
@@artisanelectrics It was. I hear new rumors now: The new smart meters detect and report the loss of power, and sometimes the DNO then sends someone out to see what caused it. Supposedly not so much about the safety concerns, but because they are looking for people who are trying to bypass the meter and steal some power.
Fair play to the customer to be able to arrange all that work on the same day and for it not to fuck up 😂😂! Would’ve been cool to get a video of them doing the joint.... tidy work though. Just followed on Instagram!
Thanks!
Hi Jordan,
I have a question for you. What tests do you run to find out exactly what circuit each one is related to? I.e you couldn't tell what circuit half of them belonged to as it was not labeled. Please let me know how you go about this. Thanks
Which Henley block's are recommended?
The incoming supply will actually be aluminium - it's single core so the inner core is the line and the outer sheather is the Neutral/Earth. Normally 25-35mm single core too
Thanks yeah I took a closer look and it was concentric câble like you say. 35mm I think
Would have liked to see the inside (wiring) of 80A Lewden switch. Looked for video's of an installed 100A Fused box..........can't find anything !
Have you crimped them cables or used an wagos?
Just been on the phone to ukpn as i need to do exactly this job in my gaff. i shall be in touch with artisan shortly ;) just wanted to give an accurate cost on this as you mentioned moving incomer would be about 3k. this is true if you want them to do the digging. if you do the digging yourself then its £1027 + vat.
I want to pull the main fuse to add a wall outlet next to the consumer unit can i do hat or no or shall i jsut cut the main pwoer off and do it that way
Good choice with RCBOS too many old lighting circuits with Stolen neutrals which cause a dual board to trip, because you never done an EICR I would have pulled each fuse then put them in individually one at a time and go around checking points for each circuit that would be a quick way to get your final circuits
Good job 👍
Nice job . You can get a reducing grimp lug from 25mm to a 5mm round pin for the sea cable. More than one supply warning label on the joint box's . Just a thought . I would fit them .
Great tip!
Tidy job, I guess IR testing before hand is less of an issue these days as everything is individually RCBO'd.
Keep up the good videos
Yes thanks!
Is there a fuse re sealing tool?
Hello mate, how much would labour cost for a job like that be roughly. I seem to still struggle with getting the right balance with pricing?
Great job done. I do like the new way it was all done and moved out of the cellar. Can I just ask, but why was everything moved out of the cellar?
He explained in the video that the celler was to be tanked (walls and floor waterproofed)
Them porcelain mem fuses are worth a fortune now.
I really like your videos all the work you do it great and top quality apart from this one. What a strange location for a consumer unit, surely there was a better solution?
Interesting to see the connector that they use; I've only heard about it.
I don't see the point in getting only single phase though, since we're told gas heating is to be phased out.
Yeah apparently some new builds are getting three phase supplies now
Agree, all new supplies should be 3 phase.
It’s just UK power networks being tight wads wanting to own a network but spend as little as possible on it so when we need more we have to pay to upgrade something that doesn’t belong to us.
Not just electric heating but also electric vehicle chargers.
Demand will increase massively over next decade or 2.
I was talking to surveyor today who even said that electric boiler is what he would recommend for somebody like me who doesn’t want to replace oil with oil or gas with gas considering imminent government ban in near term and he’s not first to say similar, few months back an energy assessor who does the EPC certificates said similar and that I wouldn’t regret an electric boiler in few years time.
Just the electric running costs are a lot more, surveyors advice though was to invest the money in better insulation so house retains more heat so you need less electric to begin with as I was originally planning on heat pump but he recommended against due to slow heating times and he’s probably right.
I came across a brand new supply a while back even, where they removed the overhead equipment and installed underground cables, they shoved in a service head with a sticker on it saying 60/80amp.
New supply like that they should just stick 100amp in considering all the cables in the street and house supplies were all new then it’s done with or even better 3 phase as you said should be the norm.
Even solar, they want more electric exported to grid from solar but many find if you export more than 3.7kwh they charge you large sums of money to upgrade their equipment to handle it.
What make/model is the outdoor supply enclosure and where did you buy this? Looks ideal!
Not sure, the builder bought it for the customer it’s nice!
Emiter (www.emiter.co.uk). Was on the front of the box on the video.
How much did they charge to fit the sub
Thank you. Finaly a fellow electrician that has an 80A fuse on the isolator rather than 100A, just like the cut out, in order to allow discrimination.
Can you explain to me why I should be using an 80A fuse in the isolator? I done that before and my boss went crazy at me so I’ve always just used 100A since
@@uplightuk8924i beleive it is because if you use a fuse the same or higher rating than the dno cut out then the dno fuse might actually blow before the customer fuse and that is a costly problem. Your designed circuit loads should never exceed the dno fuse rating so if your installing a further down stream fuse that also calls for 100A then there is obviously a problem with your circuit design...or at least that's the way the dno will look at it. If you blow the dno fuse rather than your own, then there was no point fitting your own! I would say that your your boss is wrong!
Did you use the armouring as the main earth on the new sub-main ? Or a core, or both ?
Both!
Nice job mite have been idea to fit the board over in the corner beside the book shelves but fair play
Thanks!
The labeling; l1ghts. Did the printer run out of i's?
You mentioned couple of things ….. "should have done an EICR … but wasn' t time .." and : " new board fitted with RCBO's" !
I guess that was a wise choice fitting RCBO's - ( ie the two statements are surely linked !! ) - since the likelihood of RCD nuisance tripping ( ie - on an installation that didn't appear to have any RCD protection before - but now has ! ) on an old installation like this would be quite high .. and so fitting RCBO's at least narrows any Earth leakage issues down to individual circuits !
Personally - I would never fit a "spit load" board ( ie: a common RCD for several circuits )... For the small extra cost of RCBO's over MCB's the potential reduction in "buggeration factor overhead cost" is worth it !!
Yeah I totally agree in fact I only fit RCBO boards as well.
Hi what label machine do you use thanks great video
It’s a brother one
I like it ❤️❤️❤️
Thanks!
I have a similar job coming up. Could you have used 16mm swa to make life a bit easier in the board and save some ££? Depending on cable length. I used 25mm swa on my house so just wondering.
Also is it possible to terminate swa into the back of the lewden board to go straight into a wall as I think this is what I will have to do in a meter box.
Cheers great videos 👍👍👍
Thanks! I don't think you could get away with 16mm considering the main fuse is 100amp. You could probably drill a 32mm hole in the back of the lewden switch fuse and run it in that way. Thanks for watching.
16mm swa is 110A clipped direct or 91A in a duct
Tom Yeah What is the rating when it is direct buried in the ground?
@@artisanelectrics Alot of suppliers will fit 80A fuses for some reason but still insist you use 25mm for your tails .
@@raychambers3646 The reason is 100A service heads aren't good for 100A continuous... back in the day that was never an issue, but now with car chargers which can keep whatever their demand is on constantly for 12h at a time, there's the possibility of the consumer maxing out the service fuse for extended periods.
Bet that job paid for xmas mate 👍😂💰💰💡🔌
Hager are the best 👍
Only one CU spare way? Blank cover? IP rating of cable entry? Numbering the breakers?
Yeah only one spare way, it was that or have 7 spares and we couldn't get a bigger board in on time anyway.
Sounds like you where called in last min with no prep 🙈
Usually a 35mm sq alu for the DNO supply to the head. Electricity Northwest say the same to with regards removing the fuse.
Cool thanks good info!
Yeah SSE are the same regarding cutting seals and stuff. They will just send someone round to reseal if you tell them you've done it lol.
They're only really worried about abstraction, and the kind of customer who hires an electrician to do work for them isn't the person most likely to be doing that
The supply cable is 35mm aluminium live and 25mm copper neutral/earth hybrid cable.
Drill holes between 0.25 to 0.4 joist span?
Hmmm - Yes - "electicians guide to building regs" - and drilling holes in Joist span ...
wonder how hot the service cable gets if one were to put 95amps of dummy load though it. Needs to be tested, cause it doesn't look like it would handle it continuously.
They handle it just fine. barely get warm. The older service cables of about 9sqmm equivalent copper get a bit warmer on a 100 amp load, but PILC can survive that temperature
The final tour of the completed work looks good pity you left the old head still screwed onto the backboard it would have been nice if you had removed it like you said,great video tho
I would love to have seen how the DNO cuts and joins a LIVE main service cable while literally in the earth.
might be a few radials in there, naughty boy i told you not supposed to pull auth service fuse we had Npower training on installing meter and kmf fitting
Are you going to box in the cables underneath the consumer unit?
Yeah the customer will
What if they don't though and someone damages them cables and gets a belt??
Or do you just note on the cert customer to box in cables.
Great video jordan
Theres nothing wrong with clipping direct through a joist space in a cellar. You would not have to state anything on a cert regarding this 🤔
i had kewtech pat tester once
The cable the DNO use is XLPE insulated concentric, with aluminium phase, and copper sheath which functions as the pme/neutral. 100A single phase conductor is 35 sq mm.
Nice comment thanks!
"High capacity copper"??? hmm not sure there Jordan, doesn't copper have a fixed resistivity value?... I may be wrong but I thought it was all the same? copper is copper?
@muzikman2008 I think you can get oxygen free copper cable which is apparently a purer form of copper that has slightly lower resistance and handles slightly more current than basic copper but I could be mistaken!
If anyone is interested in what you get charged for a service alteration, when I had mine done it was £475 (SSE Power Distribution) ... a couple of years back. I was a bit miffed at the price until I watched them do it LIVE.
I asked the customer how much this one cost and it was £1050
@@artisanelectrics I would have done it for 1K :-) lol...just disconnect the load side...bingo...
@@artisanelectrics Any experience of anyone wanting to upgrade to three phase and what it may cost? Toying with the idea to allow for either hob/shower/car-charger on separate phases and the area's they're in on the phase used by the main big juicy (keep fairly even split and keep each area on a single phase). Or possibly allow for fast three-phase car charger.
Just ideas atm, main reason I'm thinking about it is gas is likely to become more expensive in future (finite resource) so should become cheaper to use electric heating, but adding that to electric car charging/hob/shower etc... seems like it could be pushing it even for a 100A fuse!
@@Mattja1 It would depend how far away the 3ph service cable is... some houses round here have a 3ph head with only one fuse cartridge in use, i'd imagine it'd be a lot cheaper in that case than if they have to splice into the cable at the road...
Did UKPN excavate and expose the cable or was that the builder (near job regardless).
Surprised at only one spare way in the board. A lot of single sockets it seems, some level of rewire inevitable in the future.
As a Meter installer for a while installing an Isolator should have been standard when installing a new meter
No judge in the land would condemn you for pulling a DNO main fuse, "safe isolation" will always win. Just make sure a competent electrician does it to avoid arcing of the main switch (i'm not gonna say for obvious reasons duh) Tidy job again J :-)
Thanks!
Usually the hardest part of these type of jobs is to get everyone lined up ,have been let down by the meter people in the past ,sometimes even finding out who owns what can be a pain.
The bits of left over dno cable I've played with in the past have always been 25mm solid aluminium phase with a 25mm stranded copper concentric neutral. That's domestic of course.
Is a metalcad fused switch the correct item to put in an external enclosure? What is the corrosion warranty on such a thing? All DNO equipment is plastic?
New DNO stuff is plastic just as they're making us put in metal CU's, they're not filled with Bitchumen anymore either, it's gel based stuff like you'd find in those wiska underground rated joints though the outside underground joints they use are setting resin pours. That outside green cabinet is plastic ip65 rated so the metalclad fused switch isn't an issue.
Depending on area/size supply most of the 3 phase supplies are solid copper cores I've come across, anything from 75-250mm. Apparently there's Aluminium ones for the bigger cables on the newer supplies but I haven't worked in any large sites that have been built post 2000. Edit: The 3 phase are concentric too with the outer armor sheath being cpc/neutral.
'If we do our first they'll have to make do'😂
I don’t understand why you fit a consumer box so low on the wall instead of adult height?
Great video, one outstanding question. Why downgrade the 100amp supply head to 80amps with your MCB at the isolator feeding the SWA and consumer unit, with EV charging being install in more domestic properties that extra capacity maybe needed.
Answering my own question, with reference to Fig3A4 p370 BS7671:2018, 80A typeB circuit breaker with not breaker after 10,000 sec from a load of slightly over 100amps.
For safety’s sake, you should have removed the fuse from the cutout, and reinserted the fuse carrier, after disconnecting the line tail from the cutout. A minor point.....
They are about to cut the cable outside so it would of been dead anyway?
@@Clicksystems I think they did it live.
metallitech they did the work live. But that fuse doesn’t protect the workers as it’s up stream.
But the whole reason for the work was they cut off the existing cable, run a new cable to new outside box then spliced cable into old one outside.
So after he pulled the fuse, within minutes they would have cut the old cable outside making it dead anyway inside the house.
Yes that’s right!
I know I'm a bit late, but they need the load isolated so that when they cut the live supply cable there isn't a danger of arcing.
what you gona sweat a new cable onto the incomer
Does your ‘i’ key not work on your label printer? L1ghts and m1ddle? 😛
Hmmm not sure about that I will check
The radiator valve and pipe fitting is very close to the consumer unit , in the event of a water leak, potential disaster
If you were to give one piece of advice to someone thinking of going out on there own what would it be?
Plan everything out first. If you fail to plan you plan to fail.
High density copper , are you having a laugh.
The cable construction is totally different.
Another good video.
No swearing unlike that London repeater
Roger Bean you work in this industry and you don’t like bad words lol
Quite the opposite actually I swear a lot.
The comment was made as it’s unusual for someone not to swear in the industry.
you seem to be good, unlike the council!!
Pull the fuse!!!
I was made to go on a course to learn how to pull a supply fuse,
Ha ha ha
Just watch RUclips pmsl :-D
Yes. Pull the bloody fuse.
Half the monkeys that turn up to do it for you probably couldn't spell fuse!
Yeh kill any load before pulling!! Another reason you may have to pull main fuse...we had a few call outs to standard cable damage inside the property where the fault current was enough to take out the main 100A cutout..as well as the mcb,S ect...panic,go try and buy one then fit it,!! .so buy 2 And keep one on the van.generally 2 sizes.
So no EICR to at least identify the circuits? Nice vlog, busy day.
That wasn’t the official line from UK network. The DNO will visit to disconnect at cost 🤓
No usually I do an EICR first but time constraints didn’t allow. Fortunately there were no issues hidden away. Yeah UKPN will never say that of course! 🤑🤑🤑
UKPN hourly charge? £300 to £400/hr+ 😂
Hello Jordon why did you spoil such a nice job and to be fair alot of sparks do the same, why no containment up to the board it looks cheap
I always use plastic 2x2 trunk 2/3 pieces next to each other if need be. Your standard is good why spoil it cheers Steve
Good point!
Yes, a spot of trunk under the floor might have been neater too
About a year ago I went to a house for social housing and whilst i was there the tenant asked me about an old Dno cable just cut off not connected to anything( it would of been to an old meter) it was sticking out the wall in a pantry just hanging, the tenant asked if it was live or not, it turned out it was live and it went on the outside of the wall to a junction box near the 1st floor to roof level then to Over head cables (TT). Needless to say the Dno were called on an emergency To disconnect it.
Wow that’s crazy! Good job you found it before someone got killed!
That is bad for social housing who usually have approved sparkys ...jeeez!
@@muzikman2008 The old network supply cable was cut off from being a TT system and a new supply installed for Tnc-s by the area Dno but they didn't disconnect the old existing cable which ran inside the house to the outside and up the wall to a still live connection to the nearby overhead power cables which should of all been stripped out, others properties had been stripped out and disconnected but unfortunately that one was missed
Whoa, that's insane :o
How on earth do they splice the incomer when it's live?
🤷♂️
Procedures, live jointing techniques and PPE
@@sparky9282 ...and knowledge, experience, and common sense. oh...and rubber gloves :-)
@@muzikman2008 that's right! I'm an ex electrician who has retrained as a LV and HV cable jointer
Two tools required. A hope and a prayer.
That dB blank is gonna fallout
Yep 🤦♂️ we usually use the Hager din mounted blanks not sure what happened there
That was more of a tickling of the main fuse rather than a good pulling
Interest video working with the DNO
I love the uk power network guys they get paid a fortune just to joint and connect mains cables, and us electricians do the more complicated side of things in the house but yet don’t get anywhere near the sort of pay and benefits those guys get.
Really! I didn’t realise they were well paid.
they get paid nicely because they have to watch alongside with a buddy/mentor for 5 years before they are allowed to actually work live. they are also on call constantly and have to dig up the roads and repave them at anytime of the day/night
What voltages do they have to work with sometimes and remember its substation currents if they stuff up? No thanks.
Ukpn guy: "don't worry about it". Me: never have
i wonder if these videos will be around in fifteen years
" A million Hours later..." pmsl
😂
Did you think about using these Jordon (top job connectors) Can just use a large adaptable box with a din rail where the old consumer unit is.
www.wago.com/gb/c/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors
Hi Jordan how are u OK mate keep up the good work on here mate am a big fan of u do a really good job on here mate form Greg Bouchard keep up the good work on here mate form Greg Bouchard keep up the good work on here mate form Greg Bouchard keep up the good work on here mate form Greg Bouchard
Hi Jordan. I'm an adult learner with plenty of theory but no experience. At the beginning of the video you mention that the water incomer is plastic but has copper parts later in the system. My understanding is that if the mains supply is plastic, there is no need for bonding. John Ward's video ruclips.net/video/a5JOTA-mJ4A/видео.html explains this. Have I got it wrong?
I could be wrong here, would the incoming water mains not act as an earth, when it enters the copper pipe section. Copper is the conductor and so would the water inside, and the rest of the water?
The DNO will not remove the cut-fuse unless emergency or holder damaged. For me every situation is a question of safety and as long as you isolate the load before and after pulling the cut-out and it’s plastic then I don’t see what the problem is. Metal cut-outs with close distance between the fuse pins and holder are a different matter.
Generally it’s the Energy supplier’s job to pull the fuse for a CU change. This can be a nightmare to arrange as there are now 60 suppliers and they tend to come and go. Also all call takers do not understand the service you require. Other problem is they will initially only talk to the account holder. Some companies do the task foc whereas others can charge £50 or more and need 3 weeks notice.
Yeah what a can of worms!
i've never understood the term 'energy supplier''.. surely that's synonymous with the DNO... I think 'bunch of people who send you bills and do not a lot else' is better
@@TheChipmunk2008 The DNO pulls the fuse, but the DNOs seldom communicate with the homeowner or electrician directly - usually communication goes through the 'bunch of people who send you bills.' So the homeowner asks the electrician who asks the supplier who asks the DNO... and somehow it takes a month to actually schedule anything.
Everyone seems to forget that there are two concerned parties to take into account when pulling the main fuse. The DNO guys don't care if you pull the main fuse because they're only responsible for the head. The supplier would not be as accommodating and for obvious reasons. In this particular scenario there isn't an issue, but if it were a standard board change you'd likely be manipulating meter tails coming from the meter. There's a good possibility that you will loosen the terminations within that meter, which could cause arcing and eventually fire.
If this *is* the problem, then why isn't every board change followed up by inspection by the supplier?
Hi mate. You've drilled your joists in incorrect zones.
What time reference?
Ojordon pull thefuse who kares
Did you just touch a live supply cable without checking with your Voltage Detector Pen could save your life always check unknown stuff its not technical and cheap
What does "being tanked" mean? The only tanked I know is me on a Friday night!
😂 it’s lining the cellar with a waterproof membrane to stop damp getting in
Isolate all loads.
Pull main fuse.
Stop worrying, it will be fine.
Have been told in the past you can pull main fuse but a big no no is interfering with the meter .
@@raychambers3646 I've switched tails in the meter before.
It was like that before you turned up guv.
I used to care, but unless the main fuse looks like a relic from world war one, ive stopped caring.
@@MH-sf5ml I've taken live tails out m/clad db before now,not as scary as it sounds.installed new db and reconnected.
Dno size their cables according to average demand which is 2kw. So technically they only have to put in like 2.5mm 😂
😬
Also, the way DNO cables are constructed, we use separate cores for earth, neutral and live and each needs to be thick.
But with DNO, if they wire them up as PME they only need a solid core for the live, then they have an outer layer which surrounds it and doubles up as earth and neutral combined.
So rather than being a big thick cable with 3 thick separate cores they only need a cable with 1 thick core wrapped in another thin layer like on an armoured cable.
So cable effectively becomes same size as a single core armoured cable.
Like this photo
www.alfanar.com/assets/images/products/wires_cables/mv_power_cables/mv_power_cables1.jpg
@@Clicksystems thats an HV cable though, LV looks like this www.askthetrades.co.uk/gallery/Lectrician/1247319301.jpg?1247319594
As a DNO employee I'm surprised at what the UKPN jointer told you!
Removing the cutout fuse is a prosecutable offence and should only be done by trained and authorised personnel. If you need isolation then your DNO will (in our case at least) safely disconnect and reconnect the supply for you, or install an isolator switch immediately after the meter.
Also bear in mind that smart meters alert the supplier whenever power is lost. The supplier then contacts the DNO to alert them to a power cut. Someone from the DNO then turns up to find an electrician with the cutout fuse out. Having been sent there on a potential fault you have to report what you have found to have caused the fault. You'll be lucky to find a DNO employee who will stick his neck out and lie for you in that situation 🤷♂️
I agree. A jointer / mate should never as any non UKPN employee to remove a fuse for them. The old cutout should have been removed and the earth on the new cutout was put into the wrong side of the cutout.
How exactly does one go about getting them to install the isolator switch? The former owner did a sloppy DIY job on my CU, and as fixing it up means pulling the fuse anyway, it makes sense to have an isolator fitted to facilitate future work.
@@vylbird8014 you would need to contact your local DNO. This is who owns and maintains the electricity supply to your house, rather than the supplier who you pay your bill to. (Google who is my DNO) . They will be able to supply and install an isolator for you. It is chargeable work, I think around £130 if memory serves. It is fitted directly after the meter meaning any work on any part of your internal electrics can be completed safely and legally.
Would love to have seen UKPN joining the new service cable.
Yeah don’t think I would have got away with filming that! 😂
@@artisanelectrics Splice & Dice...with death :-D
There are a couple of videos online. It's all done really quickly, watched a crew jointing a row of new houses into the 3ph service cable in the pavement... (the original services were tn-s and had all been isolated when the old houses were demolished)... they cut into the main cable every 3 houses, and hooked in 3 cables -one to each phase, in a joint enclosure a little like the one shown, but 3x the size (main cable was about 2 1/2 inch diameter, PILC). They did maybe 8 of those in a day!
All live. Those guys earn their money
Until you get a dodgey Cut Out and one goes Bang
I'm slighty baffled you can actually run multiple circuits together in one big junction box in the UK. That's not allowed in many European countries.
Yeah it’s allowed here you can even run several different circuits in one conduit! 😂
That is allowed in Federal Republic of Germany since over 100 years.
Do you live in curious european countries. Really!
Bundy does it better, proper box with din rail
I have never heard of anyone getting in trouble for pulling the main fuse. It is technically illegal but in reality who is going to wait for them to come out to pull the fuse then wait around for them to come back to put it back in again and probably charge you about £500 to do it?
Exactly! 😂
the electrical suppliers don't like you too pull the bullet but in my day many installer did not give a hoot as they were on a time restricted installs to make money the bottom dropped out it you be lucky to get £400 for a council install these days even though its specialized and you have to have all kinds of certs like my self but hat ancient history best do private jobs you have to give the customer what they want an are paying for
4d worth:-
The "Guys on the Ground" probably have no legal authority if any serious problems arose by Electricians pulling the fuse. You could potentially still be in trouble.
What a Sh1t place to have a CU. I know it was the customers choice - but who would want a CU which was in easy reach of a small child. Are there not laws about the min height that a CU must be mounted above ?. Does it need to be "boxed in" to be made safe against Children ?