London calling!Absolutely the best videos on archery,you teach everything in a clear and straightforward way.thank you for taking the time to put these videos together.
Thanks a bunch Jeff. I appreciate short cuts. Saves time and money. That's why I'm backing you...and subscribed. And the fact, you really enjoy, instinctive archery. Great job on your presentation. Short and on point.
I love to build arrows up for all my different hunting setups as well! Something I have discovered with carbon arrows....you can have a dozen carbon arrows and every once in awhile you will get one or two sometimes three.... with a weak spine or an overly stiff spine. At first I thought it was just me and my release/bad form. I continued to test and discovered it was not me after all but the arrow. I did some further research on carbon and discovered that in the manufacturing process of carbon it is quite common for carbon to have voids (air pockets or excess glue) in the carbon/glue up process. I now make sure to bare shaft tune all of my arrows before I glue them up! I have also found that if you bare shaft tune at distances greater than 20 yards you can really start to fine tune your bare shaft for perfect flight.
I've been using cool melt since I started last year. It can slip rarely and can be annoying to work with but I can do a lot of messing around by just walking inside and running an arrow under the hot tap without having to worry about anything. I had a layered foam cube plus the bow I was using was center shot (plus I'd never tuned before) and I'd get a lot of vague or false readings as a result. I really should have done a harder glue before hunting but I didn't, and a new bow is in the mail right now so I guess it works out.
Never cut shafts blindly before shooting... Great way for a beginner to be left with using a 300+ grain tip to make it tune.. 1) Install insert and point weight you think you want 2) Shoot the arrow. Trim by 1/4” max if weak, go up in point weight if stiff. 3) Shoot again and repeat... If trimming, then do so until the arrow is perfect at the distance most comfortable for you to have reliable results I have had guys have to buy new arrows by cutting 3” off the front and now they can’t use their 150-200 grain field point.. don’t trim prior to shooting!!
Mr. Phillips, Thank you so much as this post has helped clear up a lot of confusion about my archery 🏹 tackle. I have made the mistake of purchasing a few very nice used bows. Brace height, who knows?? Where to place the nock point?? I have no idea. I know my draw length is 27.5 inches.Arrow spine ? I’m lost at the archery range but I’m enjoying it.. more posts such as this would be rather helpful………….🏹😳🏹😳 Thank You!!
Yes sir, great video! Do you prefer using the inserts/outserts with a smaller weighted broad-head or would you recommend a higher grain broad-head withou inserts/outserts? Deer are the largest critter I hunt.
I have been changing from compound to traditional for more than 5 years, and I have spent several batches of arrows for not understanding the configuration system, rather I did not do it, I just cut as I thought well.
Jeff....what a wonderful surprise finding your channel. I'm relatively new to Trad, gave up the training wheels a couple years ago. Love all the great content you're putting out. Quick question...what kinds of fletchings are you using? I've been using the "standard" 4 or 5 inch Tru-Flight Shield cut turkey feathers from 3Rivers, but looking to expand out and use some plastics that are a bit easier to work with. Sincere apologies if you've already covered this in another video. Again...many thanks for all the great content. God Bless!
Thanks for another great video Jeff! Question, do you worry about broad head orientation? You briefly mentioned it here but wondered what your full thoughts are. Personally, I like my two blades heads to be as perpendicular to the string as I can get them. It would drive me nuts to draw back a head that was at 45º or some odd angle.
I enjoyed the video.I've seen the difference in a carbon arrow and the speed looks great. They make the cedar arrow seem so much slower. I'm going to be changing over to carbon arrows. I have a question though. How do I determine what insert or insert/outsert I need? Hot melt would help as far as changing out the insert as I try ti determine what weight insert I need, but where do I start at? I can see me with a lot of arrow parts as I try to find the perfect arrow flight. Normally I shoot a 70 pound cedar shaft with 125 grain Eskimos Broadhead (and field point) and they fly great. But they are slower, and drop quicker than the carbon arrow. I like the increased speed and flight of the carbon arrow so I'm determined to change over to carbon arrows. I still want to shoot the 125 grain Eskimo Broadhead. The 125 grain Eskimos are the glue on Broadhead type (taking them off the cedar shafts) and I'll be shooting a 60 pound longbow. I'll have a 125 grain Broadhead an insert (15 grains?) , and a glue on adapter (31 grains). I believe this brings my total tip weight to 171 grains. Any idea what arrow weight I should shoot? Very grateful for the work you put into this video. I guess that's why I like RUclips!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Well I took your advise and bought six 400 Easton carbon fiber shafts along with 100 grain brass inserts and 150 grain field points. I was shocked at how these flew! And you could almost feel the penetration when they hither target. This is a perfect arrow set up. Can't thank you enough for your help. The videos you're putting out are so much help. Again, thanks!
Hey Jeff, Just found your channel and subscribed right away after seeing the quality of the content you bring. THANK YOU for all the time you put into your channel. It's cool stuff. But I need your advice on something. Not new to archery, but new to traditional shooting. Working with a 45lb recurve but it's a LEFTY! So as I follow your video everything is for right-handed shooters. I'm trying to select and tune some hunting arrows from 10 yards. They hit target nock left. Think of it this way. If I was shooting a CLOCK. The arrows enter the target at 3 Oclock with nock towards 9 Oclock . Shooting 150 and 175 gr tip. Please advise?? THANK YOU in advance.
Thanks brother, on the left handed bow it’s exact opposite, tail left is stiff and tail right is weak, the up and down is in the nock setting just have to start at 1/2” above center or zero and go slightly up or down until the arrow levels out in the target 👍🏻
I just leave the arrows full length and shorten if needed. I can always cut an arrow shorter but you cant make them longer to change spine. If you want a finger trigger on a longer arrow you can use a small piece of arrow wrap.
Exactly! We’ve got one doing just that on a gold tip traditional just a little piece of arrow wrap works like a clicker as long as the riser allows it to gently drag across your finger 👍🏻
Thanks Blaine I actually do spin test all my heads before sharpening for hunting and that’s why I like hot melt so I can heat and spin them if they have any wobble but rarely does any of them need it especially with a high quality saw thanks so much brother 👍🏻
my arrows have been kicking nock high. i raised my nock to 9/16 and it seems to help. just seems high to me. im 6’3” with a 30 inch draw shooting a 62” long bow.left right is right on. just bugs the heck out me.
I choose a set 200 gr. Heads and have been trimming them back vs the way you are by changing the point weight but do you have any idea why I’m getting mixed weak/stiff reactions when switching to a fixed crawl from 3 under? Each is consistent tho, wonder if something to do with tiller?
Yes absolutely, the bow is either tillered for split or three under and when you go to a crawl the draw length is significantly shorter and loosing energy so you have to go to a weaker spine or load up on point weight to weaken the arrow and then it should tune👍🏻
Sorry to ask this question on this video Jeff but I want to order a string and I can't find the video where you recommended your preferred string manufacturer.
Actually we were referring to point weight and usually that’s about what the shaft and nock together will weigh giving a total finished arrow weight of around 600gr thanks so much God Bless
Thanks for the reply , I've been using them for practice now i'm going to order more for hunting set up , hopefully looking to hit 600 grains with the 400 spine , we'll see !
Are the weighted inserts necessary for good arrow flight or for penetration when hunting? I am getting into target shooting and tuned my arrows using 125 grain field points but no extra weights on the front of the arrows. Is this OK or should I add weights and try tuning again?
@@markchambers2812 the longbow I set up is a Shady Oaks by Jeff Lamar it’s a 56” 49# I believe sweet little bow and it’s actually for sale $550 with selway quiver if you’re interested it’s fast with a TTT string
Hi jeff, I’m shooting 400 spine arrow at 32 inch with a 100g insert and a 175 tip . Im way over spined after bareshaft tuning. Would you recommend a 500 spine or 550 ? I’m shooting 48 lbs at 28 . God bless
Yes! Always make sure a strap on or slider is well up into the limb fades and then it’s minimal but it affects the balance and bow reaction a lot which is actually very good!
@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 What about a limb bolt quiver?My Dad is letting me use his limb bot quiver until I get mine.And that is what I'm gonna be practicing with..So I guess my question is if I decide Not to stick with a bolt on quiver will I really notice a difference in my shooting
Yes we’ve actually been dealing with a 62# Passion C2 longbow drawing it 29” with 300gr up front for an African Safari bow and it’s demanding a really stiff shaft.
Hello I’m new to trad archery but not archery in general. My local shop doesn’t know much about trad. I called Easton and they set me up with a 6.5 with a 340 spine. From 10-20 it is shooting the nock left and the point right from the minute it leaves the bow and never recoveres. I’m shooting them full length 31.75in. My draw is typically 28in and the weight is 45lb. Any help would be appreciated.
Yes sir, the 340 is going to be way too stiff for your poundage unless you run around 300 grains up front, typically a 400 spine with around 250 gr will be great and a 500 with any less point weight, but 340’s can work just have to really load them up with point weight 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 some axis 500 with 75 hit inserts and 125 head I am finding flies really well to 20. I have to work on my consistency for sure. What arrow weight is good for hunting with this set up? How to I measure what my actual draw length is on this bow?
Yes it’s a must, if by chance you have a tail left weak arrow and are canting the bow it’ll appear as a nock high so you have to shoot completely vertical with a light hook not torquing the bow or the string and it’s still never going to be as easy as a compound with a mechanical release but it’s still necessary to at least get a decent bare shaft tune to expect great broadhead flight 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you so much for this info and reply! I’ve finally got my bow shooting lasers now. I will say something that was strange to me was when I got my perfect bareshaft shooting vertically, I tried canting just to see what it would do and it kinda threw it nock right but vertically it’s perfect out to 20 yards even. But fletched it looks great
Yeah, if you’re a new archer, DO NOT cut your shaft before shooting them. This guy has done this enough to know how short he can go. This advice is a great way to cut a bunch of arrows too short. Start with a full length shaft and cut down from there.
Yes there are so many variables and I agree but only in the case of being an Aimer“ gap” shooter where one would want or need a longer shaft to close the “point on” but most instinctive shooters only want around 1-2” beyond their full draw so as I mentioned having someone mark the shaft 1-2” past the desired length to allow for trimming on the nock end to achieve a perfect tune but it also depends on the shooters draw length some can’t hardly afford to cut any off, sorry for any misunderstanding thanks so much 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I bought a dozen Axis Traditionals, I like the arrow, but I’m not going to use them because I don’t like the brown glossy finish they use on them. They flake off, not a big fan of that.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (feat. Yuki Chiba) [2024 London Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pxTCJUuorKc/mqdefault.jpg)
London calling!Absolutely the best videos on archery,you teach everything in a clear and straightforward way.thank you for taking the time to put these videos together.
Awesome! Thanks so much for watching in London love you guys!
This guy is good!
Presents info and concepts in an understandable way. Breaks it down to simple form to demystify some more advanced concepts.
Thanks 👍🏻
Best archery guy on YT.
That’s humbling thank you sir and there’s many many more to come 👍🏻
Probably the best lesson on shaft turning I've ever seen. Keep up the great work.
Thanks!!!
Thanks a bunch Jeff. I appreciate short cuts. Saves time and money. That's why I'm backing you...and subscribed. And the fact, you really enjoy, instinctive archery. Great job on your presentation. Short and on point.
Thanks brother 👍🏻
Great video as always, good straight forward, simple explanation of tuning bare shaft.
Thanks 👍🏻
Another great video from the bow master! Thanks!
Thank you so much. I enjoyed the way you do into detail with your explanation
You’re welcome thanks for watching 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Now I am learning it and I will apply it
I love to build arrows up for all my different hunting setups as well! Something I have discovered with carbon arrows....you can have a dozen carbon arrows and every once in awhile you will get one or two sometimes three.... with a weak spine or an overly stiff spine. At first I thought it was just me and my release/bad form. I continued to test and discovered it was not me after all but the arrow. I did some further research on carbon and discovered that in the manufacturing process of carbon it is quite common for carbon to have voids (air pockets or excess glue) in the carbon/glue up process. I now make sure to bare shaft tune all of my arrows before I glue them up! I have also found that if you bare shaft tune at distances greater than 20 yards you can really start to fine tune your bare shaft for perfect flight.
I was wondering if I was one of the only ones that bareshaft tune every shaft instead of one and make up the rest
Love your videos...God bless you.
great content as always, god bless you sir
This was fantastic 👍
Nice easy video to follow very simple explanation thankyou very much
I've been using cool melt since I started last year. It can slip rarely and can be annoying to work with but I can do a lot of messing around by just walking inside and running an arrow under the hot tap without having to worry about anything. I had a layered foam cube plus the bow I was using was center shot (plus I'd never tuned before) and I'd get a lot of vague or false readings as a result. I really should have done a harder glue before hunting but I didn't, and a new bow is in the mail right now so I guess it works out.
Another great video, many thanks Jeff
Thank you sir!
Never cut shafts blindly before shooting... Great way for a beginner to be left with using a 300+ grain tip to make it tune..
1) Install insert and point weight you think you want
2) Shoot the arrow. Trim by 1/4” max if weak, go up in point weight if stiff.
3) Shoot again and repeat... If trimming, then do so until the arrow is perfect at the distance most comfortable for you to have reliable results
I have had guys have to buy new arrows by cutting 3” off the front and now they can’t use their 150-200 grain field point.. don’t trim prior to shooting!!
100% agree. Cutting before shooting is just going to bring you heart ache and wasted money
great stuff. keep it coming.
No disrespect your videos are great!
Love watching your channel . your bows look awesome!! One day i will own one
Thanks so much we’ll make it happen for you sometime soon hopefully 👍🏻
Mr. Phillips,
Thank you so much as this post has helped clear up a lot of confusion about my archery 🏹 tackle. I have made the mistake of purchasing a few very nice used bows. Brace height, who knows?? Where to place the nock point?? I have no idea. I know my draw length is 27.5 inches.Arrow spine ? I’m lost at the archery range but I’m enjoying it.. more posts such as this would be rather helpful………….🏹😳🏹😳
Thank You!!
Thanks and please feel free to call me anytime with questions I’ll be glad to help you if I can 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998
Thank You 🙏!!🏹🦌
Very interesting thanks it’s a big help
Thanks brother 👍🏻
Building and tuning in a new dozen right now for this year.
Yes sir, great video! Do you prefer using the inserts/outserts with a smaller weighted broad-head or would you recommend a higher grain broad-head withou inserts/outserts? Deer are the largest critter I hunt.
Thanks 👍 👍 good stuff
New subscriber
More videos like this one please
We’ve got some coming up soon on lighter poundage hunting setups and lots more arrow tuning videos!
I have been changing from compound to traditional for more than 5 years, and I have spent several batches of arrows for not understanding the configuration system, rather I did not do it, I just cut as I thought well.
Jeff....what a wonderful surprise finding your channel. I'm relatively new to Trad, gave up the training wheels a couple years ago. Love all the great content you're putting out. Quick question...what kinds of fletchings are you using? I've been using the "standard" 4 or 5 inch Tru-Flight Shield cut turkey feathers from 3Rivers, but looking to expand out and use some plastics that are a bit easier to work with. Sincere apologies if you've already covered this in another video. Again...many thanks for all the great content. God Bless!
Thank you so much and I actually am a 3rivers dealer and I use the tru-flight 4” shield cut on nearly everything lol
Thanks for another great video Jeff! Question, do you worry about broad head orientation? You briefly mentioned it here but wondered what your full thoughts are. Personally, I like my two blades heads to be as perpendicular to the string as I can get them. It would drive me nuts to draw back a head that was at 45º or some odd angle.
No it doesn’t affect flight at all I just kinda like mine all turned the same 👍🏻
God bless you as well
I enjoyed the video.I've seen the difference in a carbon arrow and the speed looks great. They make the cedar arrow seem so much slower. I'm going to be changing over to carbon arrows. I have a question though. How do I determine what insert or insert/outsert I need? Hot melt would help as far as changing out the insert as I try ti determine what weight insert I need, but where do I start at? I can see me with a lot of arrow parts as I try to find the perfect arrow flight. Normally I shoot a 70 pound cedar shaft with 125 grain Eskimos Broadhead (and field point) and they fly great. But they are slower, and drop quicker than the carbon arrow. I like the increased speed and flight of the carbon arrow so I'm determined to change over to carbon arrows. I still want to shoot the 125 grain Eskimo Broadhead. The 125 grain Eskimos are the glue on Broadhead type (taking them off the cedar shafts) and I'll be shooting a 60 pound longbow. I'll have a 125 grain Broadhead an insert (15 grains?) , and a glue on adapter (31 grains). I believe this brings my total tip weight to 171 grains. Any idea what arrow weight I should shoot? Very grateful for the work you put into this video. I guess that's why I like RUclips!
Probably a 400
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thanks!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Well I took your advise and bought six 400 Easton carbon fiber shafts along with 100 grain brass inserts and 150 grain field points. I was shocked at how these flew! And you could almost feel the penetration when they hither target. This is a perfect arrow set up. Can't thank you enough for your help. The videos you're putting out are so much help. Again, thanks!
@@tomh7708 that’s awesome brother I’m so glad to hear that you’re ready for the woods happy hunting and God Bless!
Hey Jeff, Just found your channel and subscribed right away after seeing the quality of the content you bring. THANK YOU for all the time you put into your channel. It's cool stuff. But I need your advice on something. Not new to archery, but new to traditional shooting. Working with a 45lb recurve but it's a LEFTY! So as I follow your video everything is for right-handed shooters. I'm trying to select and tune some hunting arrows from 10 yards. They hit target nock left. Think of it this way. If I was shooting a CLOCK.
The arrows enter the target at 3 Oclock with nock towards 9 Oclock . Shooting 150 and 175 gr tip. Please advise?? THANK YOU in advance.
Thanks brother, on the left handed bow it’s exact opposite, tail left is stiff and tail right is weak, the up and down is in the nock setting just have to start at 1/2” above center or zero and go slightly up or down until the arrow levels out in the target 👍🏻
I just leave the arrows full length and shorten if needed. I can always cut an arrow shorter but you cant make them longer to change spine. If you want a finger trigger on a longer arrow you can use a small piece of arrow wrap.
Exactly! We’ve got one doing just that on a gold tip traditional just a little piece of arrow wrap works like a clicker as long as the riser allows it to gently drag across your finger 👍🏻
Good stuff. I've noticed that you don't seem to spin and tune your inserts before gluing them in. Do you ever have any issues with broadhead wobble?
Thanks Blaine I actually do spin test all my heads before sharpening for hunting and that’s why I like hot melt so I can heat and spin them if they have any wobble but rarely does any of them need it especially with a high quality saw thanks so much brother 👍🏻
my arrows have been kicking nock high. i raised my nock to 9/16 and it seems to help. just seems high to me. im 6’3” with a 30 inch draw shooting a 62” long bow.left right is right on. just bugs the heck out me.
I choose a set 200 gr. Heads and have been trimming them back vs the way you are by changing the point weight but do you have any idea why I’m getting mixed weak/stiff reactions when switching to a fixed crawl from 3 under? Each is consistent tho, wonder if something to do with tiller?
Yes absolutely, the bow is either tillered for split or three under and when you go to a crawl the draw length is significantly shorter and loosing energy so you have to go to a weaker spine or load up on point weight to weaken the arrow and then it should tune👍🏻
Sorry to ask this question on this video Jeff but I want to order a string and I can't find the video where you recommended your preferred string manufacturer.
Actually I’ve got two favorites lol they’re both on Facebook taking orders one is TTT Strings the other is Hunter’s Choice 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you Jeff! Love your videos
at the start you say 280/300 optimum weight is that the arrow weight before adding the outsert and point
Actually we were referring to point weight and usually that’s about what the shaft and nock together will weigh giving a total finished arrow weight of around 600gr thanks so much God Bless
good content, Can you tell me what longbow it is your using there?
Yes sir it’s an original Shady Oaks by Jeff Lamar, he’s retired now but built a great little bow👍🏻
Have you ever tried Black Eagle Vintage arrows , if so what are your thoughts on them?? Thanks in advance great video.
I have they’re sharp arrows and to me they shoot just like a gold tip traditional 👍🏻
Thanks for the reply , I've been using them for practice now i'm going to order more for hunting set up , hopefully looking to hit 600 grains with the 400 spine , we'll see !
Are the weighted inserts necessary for good arrow flight or for penetration when hunting? I am getting into target shooting and tuned my arrows using 125 grain field points but no extra weights on the front of the arrows. Is this OK or should I add weights and try tuning again?
Yes running around 200gr up front is actually more accurate and consistent than less especially in any wind👍🏻
Great video , what make is the bow your shooting, I like it 👍
Lol thanks brother 👍🏻
Tell me about your bow , please, who is the company ??ty Mark south Louisiana
@@markchambers2812 the longbow I set up is a Shady Oaks by Jeff Lamar it’s a 56” 49# I believe sweet little bow and it’s actually for sale $550 with selway quiver if you’re interested it’s fast with a TTT string
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 can’t find where to buy this lovely bow
@@jonathanjr.8543 we’re building them just let us know if you want to order one anytime thanks!
Hi jeff, I’m shooting 400 spine arrow at 32 inch with a 100g insert and a 175 tip . Im way over spined after bareshaft tuning. Would you recommend a 500 spine or 550 ? I’m shooting 48 lbs at 28 . God bless
Probably just a little bit, I’d either load that 400 up about 25 grains more or go with a 500👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thanks again for all your help
Jeff, how far back do you really need to go to bareshaft for hunting with the recurve?
At least 10-15 yards to really get a visual and get the arrow past normal paradox 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thanks bud. Really enjoy your videos.
Praise the lord brother
Question?Does your quiver style effect how your bow shoots?Meaning a Limb bolt style vs a strap on or slide on quiver?
Yes! Always make sure a strap on or slider is well up into the limb fades and then it’s minimal but it affects the balance and bow reaction a lot which is actually very good!
@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 What about a limb bolt quiver?My Dad is letting me use his limb bot quiver until I get mine.And that is what I'm gonna be practicing with..So I guess my question is if I decide Not to stick with a bolt on quiver will I really notice a difference in my shooting
@@Tradman47 thanks brother and it will feel the same yes!👍🏻
Why do you put two nock points on your string? Is it to put space in between your finger and nock to eliminate nock pinch?
No sir it’s only to keep the arrow horizontal upon release, the bottom nock keeps it from “ramping” off the shelf.
I need to find me some 300 spine and some m 250 spine. The 340' and 350's aren't getting it done.
Yes we’ve actually been dealing with a 62# Passion C2 longbow drawing it 29” with 300gr up front for an African Safari bow and it’s demanding a really stiff shaft.
Hello I’m new to trad archery but not archery in general. My local shop doesn’t know much about trad. I called Easton and they set me up with a 6.5 with a 340 spine.
From 10-20 it is shooting the nock left and the point right from the minute it leaves the bow and never recoveres. I’m shooting them full length 31.75in. My draw is typically 28in and the weight is 45lb. Any help would be appreciated.
Yes sir, the 340 is going to be way too stiff for your poundage unless you run around 300 grains up front, typically a 400 spine with around 250 gr will be great and a 500 with any less point weight, but 340’s can work just have to really load them up with point weight 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 some axis 500 with 75 hit inserts and 125 head I am finding flies really well to 20. I have to work on my consistency for sure. What arrow weight is good for hunting with this set up? How to I measure what my actual draw length is on this bow?
So you recommended shooting vertically when bareshafting?
Yes it’s a must, if by chance you have a tail left weak arrow and are canting the bow it’ll appear as a nock high so you have to shoot completely vertical with a light hook not torquing the bow or the string and it’s still never going to be as easy as a compound with a mechanical release but it’s still necessary to at least get a decent bare shaft tune to expect great broadhead flight 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thank you so much for this info and reply! I’ve finally got my bow shooting lasers now. I will say something that was strange to me was when I got my perfect bareshaft shooting vertically, I tried canting just to see what it would do and it kinda threw it nock right but vertically it’s perfect out to 20 yards even. But fletched it looks great
Yeah, if you’re a new archer, DO NOT cut your shaft before shooting them. This guy has done this enough to know how short he can go. This advice is a great way to cut a bunch of arrows too short.
Start with a full length shaft and cut down from there.
Yes there are so many variables and I agree but only in the case of being an Aimer“ gap” shooter where one would want or need a longer shaft to close the “point on” but most instinctive shooters only want around 1-2” beyond their full draw so as I mentioned having someone mark the shaft 1-2” past the desired length to allow for trimming on the nock end to achieve a perfect tune but it also depends on the shooters draw length some can’t hardly afford to cut any off, sorry for any misunderstanding thanks so much 👍🏻
This is all great if you dont have a 32 inch drawlength......I cant find blank shafts long enough most times.
Black eagle vintage/instinct. Stock length it 34”!!
@@austinsayer7712 cheers I'm in Australia,,,,it may not be available here. But thanks for the tip
Thunder child ??? 😁😁😁
Yes sir 😁
So what you’re really saying is……I need to go buy a dozen Victory Carbon Trads!!!!! Roger that!! Hahahahahahaha
They are good! I love the Axis as well
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 I bought a dozen Axis Traditionals, I like the arrow, but I’m not going to use them because I don’t like the brown glossy finish they use on them. They flake off, not a big fan of that.
@@ericlind3569 true that
Its 230 lol