Bare Shaft Tuning for Traditional Archery
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2014
- In this video I talk you through how to bare shaft tune your arrows and how important it is to be shooting the right spine arrows for your bow.
Please stay tuned at the end ;)
Take care and enjoy!
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archeryadventures.uk
Twitter: @GrizzlyArchery
email: archeryadventuresuk@gmail.com
Big thank you to the Inked Archer for the fantastic theme tune!
Shoot straight everybody! 
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Thank you so much for explaining it so closely at the end! I finally got the reason why about something that is easy to look over and miss it totally. Shot straight and have fun m8!
I’ve been searching for an explanation as clearly as that for a while now. That helps me understand exactly what is wrong. I was thinking the opposite this whole I’ve been learning. What you have said makes perfect sense. Love the stumping videos Jim. Thank you for the videos and wonderful explanation.
I know this is an older video and thank you for adding the part at the end about why your arrow goes left or right because that was one of the questions I was going to ask you. This video has really helped me to tune my arrows myself so they fly true. I enjoy your videos and I have subscribed to your channel. Your teaching people and that helps archery to grow and be enjoyed instead of declining because of discouragement. Thanks.
Great video! never knew you could do things this way. I'm excited to give it a try! Love your videos, keep um coming!
Great vids Jim my wife & I have learnt loads from them.Please keep them coming
Great video Grizz!! Congrats on hitting 1000 subscribers :) Glad you're still using my song haha
For those newbies, if you're wondering why the arrow lands up or down in a vertical plane when bare-shafting, it's because your nock-height is off! Just thought I'd throw that in there for the pups :)
Videos are so helpful, can’t believe I never thought of putting the nock in the point end so don’t have to keep gluing and removing the point when cutting to find correct length for the spine.
Thank you Jim.
You are not only knowledgeable but a great teacher
Holy hell! You made that super easy. Watch myself more than a handful of bare shaft tuning... Sadly... Until you explained it I didn't totally understand it. Thank you very much! All of your videos a great thank you for being you.
Thanks. One of the most simple explainations of bare shaft tuning I have watched.
Best explanation I've seen after researching all day! Much appreciated
love your videos. very well explained. I bought a TimberCreek Viper because of your great explanation. love the bow. thanks!
Great Video! Very good explanation of bare shaft tuning for traditional archers. One thing to mention is that if you find that your arrow is a bit too stiff either because you over cut or ordered too stiff an arrow is adding weight to the front (heavier point &/or insert) will effectively reduce the arrow spine.
Ive always been into firearms and have always wanted a bow. There is just something about a bow that makes you feel like a man. I'm 36 recently started shooting a week ago and I'm hooked. I just have so much to learn.
I wanted to say that out of all the many many videos I've seen your is at the top for being so informative and simple to understand. Thanks for the vid!
Just bought my first carbon arrows for my longbow, this video will help a whole bunch, thanks!!
Great work Jim, as always. :)
Maybe add for those newbies like me that you can only cut down up to a certain length depending on you draw! So if you have a high draw length you must look for arrows that are closer to the ideal "stiffnes" from the begining.
My 2cts :)
Hey Archery Adventures! Thanks for the vid on bare shaft tuning. I have found that if you leave the shaft slightly weak, once you fletch the arrow it stiffens a bit and tunes the arrow nicely. Give it a try! Thanks again!!
great demonstration and presentation style!
Best trad arrow tuning vid out there!
Thanks for your informative video,very well done!
Great video grizz!
Great video. I don't see you blabbing on. I see it as your explaining how things work. Thanks for sharing.
Well he is on the right trail but I think I would have nock tuned and made sure the nock end of the shaft was cut flush with wooden arrows all you have to do is float them your stiffer spine side will float to the top this is your dynamic spine of the arrow nock this side up is preferred it gives you consistency every time you shoot I would start here first before cutting the arrows down dynamic spine left or right side on the arrow shelf affects archers paradox to the arrow this is why building a spot on arrow is work, I like ole Grizzes videos good information but traditional arrow tuning has a long list of to do's if done correctly.thumbs up big Jim
Great explaination. I hope to learn a lot from your channel.
I've been putting this off for too long.........thanks for the video, i'm going to tune some arrows to match my favorite bow.
Thanks for a well put together video.. it helped me. Cheers
Great description!
Many videos I’ve watched to help explain why in the first place a stiff or weak arrow flys as it does when shot & none have shown as plainly as u have. Thanks now I understand & know a bit more to tune.
clear,simple,easy.Thanks man
Excellent video. Great help. Cheers, Griz.👍😎🇨🇦🏹
Thanks buddy!
It’s a bit of an old one now I should probably update it at some point?
@@ArcheryAdventures only if the process has changed. Background music maybe. Might I suggest, Meatloaf -Bat out of Hell?🤔😝
@@ArcheryAdventures perhaps tuning wood arrows? That’s what I’m shooting now....... but yeah, Meatloaf.👍
what distance should I be when bare shaft tuning?
great Vid very simple explanation for something I always found a bit difficult and just went with what the shop gave me
More videos weekly!! :D Post some stump hunting!
Just a note if you have a stiff shaft at full length from what i have heard you can use a higher point weight and see if that helps if you really don't have the money together to buy new shafts but have some heavier points lying about.
Thank you!
Thanks that was helpfull! I have 2 bows with the same poundage, but a bare shaft comes out tip left way further with one bow than it would with the other bow. That is remarkable..
It's not only the poundage which effects the spine, its more about the acceleration. The faster the bow pushes, the stiffer the spine should be.
Imagine the difference in speed of a 60# longbow compared to a 60# revurve.
got it thanks ( a force in motion)
Hi, think I've binge watched all your vids now, love em & cant wait for more,
Quick Q, presumably your end result could be anything over your DL? eg: my DL is 27" but the "tuned" arrow could end up being 28 5/8"?
and do you also change the insert weights?
.
Best video for arrow tuning 👍
will mullikin thanks buddy! Although I am planning on making it in the near future, Little more in depth, still easy to follow 😉
yeah man, great bow! the greatree deerslayer. i got the same bow . a great bow for asmall price! your videos a great, cool guy!
You have a rockin beard my friend.
Thanks Man!
I always cutted the shafs of my arrows to one inch more than my anchor,
and if I understood your advices, I have to start with the full lendght
of the bare shaft, and cut till it hit straight. Is this that I have to
do to keep the proper arrows without the worry of the lendght?.
Thank you and sorry for my lack lendguage.
Jim I'm very confused,I shoot left hand recurve. Bare shaft my arrows fly and land nock left. I have been wrapping tape on the .point . My arrows are now straight .i was shooting 145gr.tips.i need to weigh them is this right deal. I will have go and get heavier tips and try them. Or an I cut my arrows down. I don't have much room for cutting, and at 50# maybe a200 gr. Head is good. Pls help. Thanks kevin👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
great vid
just curious man do you ever group your bare shafts with your fletched shafts? ive tuned both ways but I feel like grouping them together works a little better. Have you ever done that? and nice video
As a beginner this is so helpful. Thank you for explaining and showing the reason and difference.
Does this vary for traditional nows like a horse bow?
Just a note, i have really enjoyed your videos with merlin. So i couldn't help but come over to your channel. I would really like to see a few more detailed videos kind of like this.
They are coming Justin :) Thanks for watching
Do you not feel the need to weight the back of the shaft to simulate vane/feather weight while bare shaft tuneing? Thanks
how far back should I shoot to bare shaft tune
Nice video. What is the poundage of the bow in the clip?
Is this way of tuning arrows only applicable to aluminium/carbon or will it work with wood as well? I've got the correct spine weight for my bow but if I can also fine tune that would be awesome.
May I ask why you do not go up in spine on the arrow?
What do you call that big black target? I need one myself
Jim, do you still upload? If not can you please make an official video about it. I really hope you will upload
Ahh yes, a good explanation. Would be even better if you'd add up the importance of correct nock height.
PS there is a way of making a too stiff arrow weaker - just add a heavier point :) balancing between 70/100/150 grains makes a great impact. I think it's a good topic for a video...
What do you do for constant nock high bare shaft?? I've tried moving nock point up and down but always landing nock high. Is it my release? Point weight(145)? It's Flying accurately out to 22yds but nock high. Thanks
That's a tough one... There are a few things it could be.
1) your bow grip.
2) toque on your string.
3) arrow rest (try one with more cushioning)
4) a negative downward pressure on your arrow while releasing
though it really difficult to offer some conclusive advice without actually seeing you shoot. Knock low is easy to sort out, but nock high can be a little bit of a nightmar sometimes ... Hope you get it sorted and please let me know how you get on. take care and shoot straight
I'm suffering from the same issue, it seems to help when I lower my anchoring point. I do shoot three under too.
Wow great video, great advice! Could i just ask, if i have a 45# 60" bow and i draw to 30 inches do you know what spine shaft i should have?? Cheers!
more than likely you will want to go with a 500 spine. but as he mentioned in the video you won't know untill you shoot them so i would not start out by running to the store and buying a bunch of arrow but just get a few if you can and try them out.
Great Vid Jim.... a 'little' weak is not a bad thing sometimes as the feathers have a slowing effect (stiffening) once fitted.. ;)
dude -- cool vid -
I'm a lazy bastard ...
I never tuned my arrows - I fl-etched and shot ... lazy
Great Video -- So much easier than most explanations I've heard ..
Thanx Grizz ....
Nice
Does this mean you would have arrows at different lengths, and if your draw was 28 inch what if you go past it ? Am I making sense?
thank you for the video help a new archer a lot. if a arrow alway hit left of there you are aming, is that alsaw do to a weak spine. the shop gave some 700 spine for my bearpaw mohawk 35# 29 draw lenght
Heino Randa A general rule of thumb is that with a right-handed archer if an arrow hits to the left and it’s actually stiff but it’s not quite as simple as that. there are so many factors that can give you a false week or stiff reading such as knock fit, and release.
but without seeing it’s actually quite difficult to ascertain what’s going on there?
Shoot straight buddy!
What kind of material is the black panel made of?
Hi, What distance do you suggest to shoot for bare shaft tuning?
the Flight of the Arrow also depends on the type of flights used , Although I`ve shot many times = Paper Flights, Plastic, Feather, then there`s the length of flights , and how they re-act to what material arrow used, I tend to shoot at 32" draw, maybe I should draw less but I find I cant help myself pulling back to my ear. and at this pull I`ve noticed the difference on the arrows, maybe at 28" you may not notice ?? But It`s there !! ... Bluey Care Bear
nice
would this be true for compound
In an earlier video you pointed out that you use 4 fletchings on your arrows for looks and arrow flight but I noticed you use 3 now. Any reason why or which one is best? Fyi I enjoy and appreciate your videos and blogs. Keep it up!
Thank you thats kind of you to say!
I tend to float between 4x 4" feathers and 3x 5" feathers there really isn't a lot in it to be honest, though you do get a touch more stability its mostly for looks ;)
Take care and thanks for getting in touch
I am right handed shooter but i use reversed draw method with my string arm does that change the bareshaft readings?
Is this a trick question.
Hi: I have arrows with weight system. I can add 10 or 20 grains at a time. I have not tuned yet, but I believe I can tune this way without cutting. I don't want to cut because I don't want to breath that dust. The arrows I have are 0.166 internal diameter gold tip. Gold tip has a F.A.C.T. system where by weight can be added to the from of the arrow 10 or 20 grain at a time. Once I settle on the arrow rest and string I am going to use, I will tune the arrows by adding weight. My question is: do you think I can tune the arrow this way? I tend to think changing weight can be the same as cutting.
Yi-Tzai's Toy Review yes you can do this, but if your shaft is too weak you need to decrease point weight to stiffen it up wich isn't always possible so cutting would be better in that case. For a stiff arrow adding point weight works perfectly. I like a heavy point weight so I usually take a stiff spine with a heavy point so it becomes weak, then cut down from there. The method you describe will most likely work just fine
But when the fletching weight is added to the rear of the arrow, doesn't that make the arrow behave stiffer than the bare shaft? Wouldn't you want to tune the bare shaft a bit on the weak side so that it will fly straight after the fletching is added?
Because fletch weight is negligible.
Do I have to buy that kind of machine for cutting down my arrows or can I do it with some kind of a handsaw?
Try a razor saw and miter box. They sell them at hobby shops for building wooden models.
Hi Jim, all bareshaft tuning seem to be done with carbon arrows. Is the proceedure the same with wooden arrows
I'll try the 'old channel' for an answer :) I have a 55# that seems caught in between. I can bare shaft a 400 at about 30"..., I can bare shaft a 500 at about 28". Either will work for my draw length. So, my question is; should I be shooting the shorter arrow opposed to the longer??? I have always been taught to shoot the shortest arrow you can.. what do you think, what are your thoughts??? Thanks Jim!
Nuttn Much Sorry to disappoint you but I don't think he responds to his old channel anymore ;(
My personal opinion is that it really does not matter which one you shoot if they both perform the same. I suppose if you want a little more weight on your arrow, go for the 400-30" and if you want slightly less weight go for the 500-28"
+Nuttn Much
For hunting, you might want to go for the heavier arrow for better kill penetration. For target shooting, choosing the lighter arrow will give more speed and drop less over the distance to the target.
Hi, I have started shooting thumb ring style and tried to bareshaft some arrows for it. I'm shooting the arrow off the right side of the bow holding it in the left hand. So it should work the same as shooting left handed. The problem I've run into is that the arrows are hitting knock right (too weak?) However I've tried cutting them but nothing changes. I'm using 400 and 500 spine arrows. No difference in the impact point. The arrows are almost hitting sideways both of them. I've also tried 100gr and 125 gr tips but no difference. The bow is only #45 @28 and I'm drawing to 30 inches. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
+Dan0e30 Hello. I have found that when thumbring shooting spine is not very critical. I find that by varying the grasp and the string twist I can make the same bare shafts hang right or left. Rgds. Bruce
Thank You, After shooting this style for a few months, I have found that the stiffer the shaft, the better it shoots. Also there seems to be less power loss due to a flexing shaft. The release makes the most difference. Both with the string hand and the bow hand. In short, bare shaft tuning isn't really applicable to thumb ring style shooting.
Question; If a carbon shaft has a heavy/stiff side due to that area being more thicker with the last part of carbon wrap which can be tested in water bc the heavy/thicker part of the arrow will sink causing the weaker/thinner wall up. So my question is; which side of the shaft should be my cock feather (3 fletch). *Stiff side arrow towards bow or weak side?*
What are securing your insert with to allow easy removal for cutting down your shaft as you are bare-shaft tuning?
John Petsche just hotmelt glue
My arrows are landing nock-left and this is the first explanation I've seen that helps me make sense of it. But I have a question, please. The arrows I purchased are only a half-inch longer than my draw length. I got some lighter tips but it made very little difference. So I went from 400 to 300sp but have exactly the same problem. What else should I try?
Fred Mecoy hummm... what is your set up buddy? Poundage draw length and whatnot? Also just checking that you’re right-handed?
@@ArcheryAdventures Hey, thanks for the fast reply! Draw length is 30.5", arrows are 31", bow 45lb. Yes, right handed. 500, 400 and 300sp arrows I bought are doing pretty much the same thing - landing to right of target, nock left. But I have one set of 400's (that feel more like 600's but I don't have a setup to measure them) that land on target with only a very slight nock-left, if any.
@@fredmecoy6583 Thats really odd buddy? What bow is it and what is the cut on the shelf like, is it cut past centre? The other thing might be the fit of the nock in the string. if they are too tight it can really fowl up you nock reading...
It could also be an issue with the release?
This problem has got me, but I what to help you buddy :)
Any minimum to the shooting distance for this Jim ?
So do you bare shaft tune with each set of arrows you buy ?? Also, if you're using the same arrows for two different weighted bow, which do you tune them for(the heavier or the lighter) ??
Great vids btw, keep up the great work !!!
I would say tune them for the heavier bow, on the basis that shooting arrows that are too weak for the bow could damage the bow and the arrows.
Each bow gets its own arrows, unless the arrow tunes to both. The shaft has to bend around the riser by just enough. I have two recurves that use the same 500 spine, 29" shaft with a 125 grain head. The bows pull 42 lbs and 53 lbs.
Can you bare shaft tune before you have found the best total grain weight and tip weight?
You have to choose the tip grain weight your going to use before you tune your arrow. Changing the weight changes the tune. If you don't have an arrow trimmer and you start out using an average tip weight like 145gr change the tip weight to tune your arrow.
your taking off ..multiple times. How is it affecting your draw length?(DL)
say your DL is 28..how long a shaft should you START with to begin tuning?
Because if your taking pieces away how do you get to your DL, wo being short or long.. since taking away alters the spine to get the one you want but you still wanna maintain your DL...hope you understand the question.
oldie but goodie -- thanks jim
how to fix arrows going left altogether
I may be slow but even when "flipping it over" and trimming from the point end you will have to remove and remount the insert once finished, right? Is this an aestethic consideration or is there more to it? Any special glue for this? What point weight do you start out with? Thanks for a splendid RUclips channel!
Push in nocks used. So yes the point is screwed in. The nocks are just pushed in to the shaft. Not sure why he said he was cutting from point end, cause he infact cut from the nock end.
Rhys Jackson I believe Jim is talk about the nock end in respect to the label on the shaft. Typically the labels go to the rear of the shaft so they do not get worn out as quickly. The spine info resides on the label.
TheNockingPoint Ahhh my bad! Thanks
Weight doesn't matter, Light tip faster more accurate, hunting heavier better penetration. If your shooting performance is where you want it weight is a non factor.
Say , I did bare shaft tuning on few of my arrows and got them to a perfect length and they were landing perfect and then i Fletch them using either 2 or 3 inch top of the line vanes and now they are terrible the rear end looks like riding a wave. any idea what could cause that?
Try a heavier point?
Na. got rid of all vanes. using feathers only.
+WV591 at least you got it sorted
yes Thank you. nothing like 4 inch shields.
Did you say(mean) vanes? As in plastic? You would need an elevated rest to get them to fly right..
So what weight field/target points do you start off with? Wouldn't an arrow that shoots weak with say a 150 or 175 grain possibly shoot fine with a 100 or a 75 grain? So, what is the "standard" starting point? (Pun intended.)
angryagain68 I tend to start with a 100gr nowadays, it gives you a little more tuning options (I love a good pun)
Point taken:) Thanks for the info.
angryagain68 😂
For everyday recreational, target shooting it really doesn't matter. But if you tune your spine weight with a certain tip weight changing the tip weight it will throw all that off. If you don't have an arrow trimmer i would suggest using a 145 tip and use different tip weights to tune your shaft.
and how does the point weight help make a arrow stiff or weak
Don Thornton when an arrow is shot it 'plays' with inertia. Adding a heavier tip will make the inertia greater and so the shaft is 'weaker' and vice-versa for a lighter tip
Oh, hello Jim. I didn't see you there......because the UK is a darn long way from CA.
I understand that there is another way to go about this tuning by means of altering point weight. Is that correct? If so, how about a video illustrating this process.
No access to a nifty shaft cutting tool.
Hey, don't know if your question is still unanswered, but you're kinda right. The heavier the tip is, the "weaker" the arrow gets. Or the more the arrow flexes i should say. So if you're doing the bare shaft tuning with let's say a 100 grain tip and you got just a little too short and the shaft is now too stiff you can put a 125 grain tip on and that should do the job for you.
Yes RUclips Archery101 and he tunes by tip weight and explains how and why
What's the target made of?
They be foam targets.
did you have to put inserts in every time you cut the arrow? or did you just shoot without a point?
I was wondering the same thing. Hope he sees your comment and has a minute to answer.
OH, at the beginning of the video he says that he is trimming the nock end. I saw a tip on the other end. Had to watch again to see.
Really Old Rookie So he is gluing the nock back on every time?
I don't think so, it looked like it came off pretty easily. I'm new at this, don't know that much about all of the arrow components yet.
Really Old Rookie
I think they are push - in nocks. No glue required.
Hi. What is this backstop is made?
+Bruno Costa Ferreira compressed rubber matts
My bareshaft shows nock left, no matter what point weight i put on...
tippo81 In that case providing you are right-handed you need to get a stiffer spined arrow 👍🏻
too stiff of an arrow is not bad either. I want a heavier for hunting so I over spine and add more weight up front to weaken the spine.
Man, bare shaft tuning would be so much easier with an arrow saw.
And, if you cut off too much use a lighter tip and it will have the exact same effect as lengthening the arrow.
Not quite. The shaft flexes due to the amount of weight in the front because of resistance. The tip will go straight if it is moderately tuned and the center will flex. If the shaft is too weak then the nock is trying to overtake the point plus it can break on release. If it is too stiff then the shaft comes out kind of dead and lacks propulsion. You should also discuss the option to change point weight or poundage rather than shaft length as a final microtune.
If you don't include your fletching weight you will get a false reading . Your arrows with fletchings are now stiff . Your fletchings could weigh 8/10 grains ,not a good way to show beginners on how to tune a bar shaft . Fletch weight sucks a lot of energy from traveling down your shaft ....stiff .
I always cutted the shafs of my arrows to one inch more than my anchor,
and if I understood your advices, I have to start with the full lendght
of the bare shaft, and cut till it hit straight. Is this that I have to
do to keep the proper arrows without the worry of the lendght?.
Thank you and sorry for my lack lendguage.