@@JakeKaminskiArchery ... Nah, nothing wrong with using feet, arms, sticks, stones, and other things at hand to create a nomenclature no-one understand ;)
Jake , I put in a Vic Burger tuning method under my old comment . That allows you to shoot your actual craws which is better than using one crawl because your crawl changes so many minuet actions in the way your arrow leaves the bow tuning all of your crawls will make it much more precise over your entire crawl if you do this it will make your groups tighter over all and staying inline with the center at all crawls very precise. Love your channel been shooting and tuning bows for barebow for 50+ years.
I know this is a very late reply, but others might have the same question in the future. It works the same way. You start at 10 meters and move your tab to adjust for that. But then as you walk back, you keep using the tab "position" as you did on 10 meters. Although I've only shot barebow in the past, and never did this myself, I still believe this would yield the same result of telling if your centershot is good
Just had an epiphany! I struggled with my arrows going right (rhd archer) as the distance got closer from 100yds, 80yds, 50yds, 40yds doing a York last year, now I know why! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the walk back steps. I like shoot close then go to your furthest distance. I’ve always felt I was burning good time by shooting all those arrow in between. Also wanted to answer back on your suggestion on putting the fair weather spacer on my aae. Yes it does fit and fingers are much more comfortable. Some one else suggested adding another layer of leather but 4 layers seemed extreme especially when they start distorting after lots of shooting. But still wanted to thank him for the suggestion too.
I nearly fell out of my bed at 4:04 cause I was startled by what I thought was a huge bug on the right bottom corner of my screen. Appears it was your black ckicken :D
Jake , for barebow put you dot at the bottom and shoot ten meters and go thru all of your crawls that will let you tune for most consistant center for all crawls . and use vic burger's tuning method for button tension and centershot .
@@adrianyee2634 ok I looked also so there is nothing out there on it but I will do my best to explain. Burger button tuning put a dot at the bottom of your target use a plum Bob and put a piece of string or thin tape about two feet long straight up from the dot. Now shoot an arrow at each crawl at a distance of 10 yards . Shoot one arrow at each crawl from 15 yards thru 40 yards . If your arrows hit the target in a half moon shape from center to left side and back to center center is out to far. If arrows hit center and continue left tension on plunger is to stiff. This is exact opposite for center shot inside or tension to loose. All of the above is for Right handed archers for left hand is just opposite . I hope that explains it so you can perfectly tune your bow to center shot based on your individual equipment . Any other questions please ask but I do sometimes go for periods of time checking my emails, but I will do my best to get back to you.
This would tricky with a barebow. You would have to use the same crawl for your walk back tuning, but then when crawling down the string everything would change. One way that may work would be to use the crawl for that distance as you walk back so you factor in the change in tune. Your arrows would not drop as the distance increases, but would hit increasingly to the left or right if the centreshot is wrong. This just a thought, I have never tried it
Hi Jake, great videos! I get a little confused when you're discussing set-up, loading, anchor, transfer, expansion, etc. It would be great if you had a video explaining each of the terms and showing us the entire shot sequence.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanks Jake! I found it and it was just what I was asking for! RUclips didn't show it under the form series, so I had to hunt for it.
Hi Jake, I've found that I could manage to get the dynamic centre shot just by shooting at 2 distances 90m and 30m. if my groups is centred at 90m and then is to the left or right at 30m, just adjusting plunger the centre shot to bring the 30m group to the centre seems to be a quick way to do this. I've double check with a real walk back and this seems to be a quick way to quickly get dynamic centre shot without having to do a full walk back
Hi Jake, would this method also be applicable to barebow shooting where you use the arrow to aim with, which means that you align the arrow with the target dot? When you use a sight, the sight is aligned with the dot, while the arrow could point to the right or to the left depending on your center shot setting.
exacly the same question i was about to ask. My guess is that u cant string-walk while moving back. So lets say u find where to put your fingers at 10m to hit the black dot. then when u move back 5 steps you have to put your fingers at the same place on the string and aim at the black dot. it would be the same as a recurve shooter not adjusting the sight. Thats my theory on BB but i might be wrong.
Hi Jake, i do have a question that I'd appreciate your take on, but firstly want to say thanks for all your videos, they're great and don't worry about the little comments. It's simple to use apps/google to convert measurements either way, people are just being lazy and thats not your problem. Question: you mentioned that centre shot can change dynamic arrow spine, but not how. I'm right handed and my arrows are drifting left 6" from 20y to 40y. My bareshafts are slightly weak (about 4-6" right of fletched, which stays the same at 20, 30 and 40y). If I move my centre shot slightly inwards/right to correct it, would this stiffen or weaken the arrows? Thanks again!
No need for a level. Put an arrow in the top of the bail. Tie a 4 foot length of para cord to the arrow. Tie a small weight to the paracord. Let the whole paracord be free to swing. Then do Jakes walk back method :-) Also works for compound tuning. I do.. 5m, 15m, 30m
.... Can you use this for barebow, if so how? I was watching the video getting ready to setup a new riser, and I just realized I don't have any bowsights on any of my bows currently, I need to get one at some point. I have been shooting instinctual for the last 20 years. Would attempting this without any form of sight reference tell you anything, or would your brain just compensate for errors in your center shot as you walk back?
Got a chance to shoot the new riser today, and doing a walk back absolutely did help. My Plunger was off by about 0.5mm and going from 40m to 10m my vertical plane changed about 5-6in. Quick adjustment and I can walk in from 45m, stopping every 10m or so, and all my arrows stack vertically. Thanks for the info Jake, love the channel and your content.
I’m having a problem running out of windage far left, I have 3 lines left to the right I’m hitting middle like this but it’s not right. Thanks in advance.🙏🏽
awwww, I wish I was Jake's neighbor :'( Then again...that would mean I'd have to live in Florida lol The trade-offs are SO HUGE!!!!! Also, I don't see a new bare shaft tuning vid linked, like you mentioned in the video :P
Disable veteran just learning how to use a bow mainly for range of motion but I got hook and now I want to be the best I can be at this . Jake where do I get that target?
If I don't have that big of a bale, in theory as I walk back I could adjust the low-up sight without touching right left. No? And adjust the right-left discrepancy with the plunger as I walk back?
Jake Kaminski oh yea I get that. Definitely. I’m just looking at it from my level of shooting as my groups/form are not that great yet. I meant it as a tuning starting point ( better that having a centre shot waaaay off )
It sounds really great but as a novice I would probably need to work on release, form etc before trying to do any fine tuning, isn't it ? Then if I have a terrible setup (plunger, limbs, brace height, ... all wrong) how can I detect it, fix it ? When could I consider my bow is setup enough to tell that I should see progress and better groupings before I spend time on tuning ? Btw thanks for all your videos !
hi Jake, quick question if I may. I have your tuning book, but unsure should I do walk back turning before of after aligning my sight pin (up and down) position.
Great video Jake, please keep up the good work by making these videos. If only have one question to you: To me they always told that a straight diagonal line (either to right or left) you have to respectively increase or decrease (for a RH archer) your plunger tension. If you end up with a curved line (starting at top, ending on the line at most far distance), you have to correct this by plunger position. Googleing for recurve walk back tuning shows me this pictures as well. Can you please comment if they learned me the wrong thing, or that I misinterpretated your explanation??
Ive never resolved issues according to what the other methods say, I stated in this video that the curved lines are from contact issues or badly tuned equipment. Angled lines are fixed by center shot, tuning and groups are fixed with tension.
Is it recommended to bareshaft tune your bow first? I am a compound archer and I found that if I paper tune and get bullet holes, my center shot will end up being extremely close already. So I was wondering if that applies to recurve bows. EDIT: After watching the video, it seems like I need a decent base line tune. Then I'm suppose to set my center shot before finalizing my tune
Correct me if I'm wrong here, But if your arrow spine was off wouldn't this also show a similar pattern at further distances.. How would you distinguish if its actually a center shot issue or a spine issue ? For example.. I have setup a bow that I know has the arrow slightly outside of centre, I'm left handed so to the right ever so slightly.. At close distance everything is fine, as I progressively move further away, 30 meters, arrows show a weak spine indication, start landing further to the left..
This video is very very usefull for an olympic recurve shooter. Can it be used by a barebow shooter as well? Or according to you string walking tecnique will affect these evaluetions?? Thanks!
This is probably a stupid question, so do I move the sight pin first at 10m till I can hit that point? I have everything centered, string, sight pin, limbs, arrow tip and arrow hits left of target at 10m.
Could you please explain relation between centershot, plunger tension, limb tension to sight horizontal position. Sometimes I struggle with tunning where correctly bareshaft/walkback tuned bow require me to put sight so far left (RH archer) that sight screw is to short. It bugs me because when I'm aiming down the range I see my stabiliser pointing far to the right in relation to where Im aiming. For the record I'm aiming by puting string picture close to the right edge of sight pin. Maybe horizonat sight position you end up after whole tunning process is something to make video about?
I shoot a hunting style ILF bow, and I'm a gap shooter. Is there a way that I could make this work for me? As I move back my arrrows hit higher if I aim at the same place, till I reach my point on, then they start to drop. Should I start with my point on, around 35yds then go back till the arrows are getting to the bottom of the butt?
I would figure out how to use your standard anchor, no crawl (obviously) and start at 10M, you may need to aim low, say 1/2way down the target on the line and then do your walk back from there. Really you do not need to have the arrows falling in a descending fashion, as long as you know which arrows were shot at what distance.
Once you go closer to 10m your sight moves down the sight rail. So this helps you from missing high as you move back. Always start at 10 and move back.
Jake, I want to like you, I’m also subscribed, but could you slow it down? Us beginners don’t understand everything you’re saying. It seems like most of the jargon you use is geared towards the more experienced shooters. I understand what you’re doing but I don’t always understand why because of some of the jargon.
The target is not level, or even close to level. The ground the target is on isn’t level either. Plus I may not have had my camera set level either. Just using a tripod with a pistol grip from my spotting scope setup haha
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I'm not in the Olympics and I dought if many are still would like in yardage this is the United States not some other country we do inches and yardage here much simpler for most of us thank you
Минус, потому что такая настройка известна давно, а ваши рассуждения не совсем верны. Русская народная пословица «Слышал звон, да не знает, где он» - о человеке, который сам недостаточно или только с чужих слов знает то, о чём говорит.
Really, when it comes to resources for the recurve archer, this channel is rapidly becoming a one of a kind in the whole internet. Thank you Jake!!!
I am resetting up my bow after my local shop dorked it up. All these tips are fantastic!
Jake used cm and meters...gosh thank you). And definitely a like for the info.
You metric fanatics.... haha
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Liberia, Myanmar and US are last countries using imperial system at the moment.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery ... Nah, nothing wrong with using feet, arms, sticks, stones, and other things at hand to create a nomenclature no-one understand ;)
The Jake Kaminski Encyclopedia, gotta love this guy ..... great stuff Jake ...thx
Like a sponge...
Jake , I put in a Vic Burger tuning method under my old comment . That allows you to shoot your actual craws which is better than using one crawl because your crawl changes so many minuet actions in the way your arrow leaves the bow tuning all of your crawls will make it much more precise over your entire crawl if you do this it will make your groups tighter over all and staying inline with the center at all crawls very precise. Love your channel been shooting and tuning bows for barebow for 50+ years.
Great videos. I'm watching everything
Great explanation, Jake. I‘m looking foward to the plunger button video because there is still confusion about the right tune in my club.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Great vid! how about finding centershot for barebow?without sight
I know this is a very late reply, but others might have the same question in the future.
It works the same way. You start at 10 meters and move your tab to adjust for that. But then as you walk back, you keep using the tab "position" as you did on 10 meters.
Although I've only shot barebow in the past, and never did this myself, I still believe this would yield the same result of telling if your centershot is good
Just had an epiphany! I struggled with my arrows going right (rhd archer) as the distance got closer from 100yds, 80yds, 50yds, 40yds doing a York last year, now I know why! Thank you so much!
Could be that, or could be sight leveling.
I’ll do a video on that here shortly
I’ve checked the sight and adjusted and checked again, but, it wouldn’t hurt to revisit it.
Thanks Jake
I’ll be doing a video about how to level your sight. Lots of people do it wrong
Thanks for the walk back steps. I like shoot close then go to your furthest distance. I’ve always felt I was burning good time by shooting all those arrow in between. Also wanted to answer back on your suggestion on putting the fair weather spacer on my aae. Yes it does fit and fingers are much more comfortable. Some one else suggested adding another layer of leather but 4 layers seemed extreme especially when they start distorting after lots of shooting. But still wanted to thank him for the suggestion too.
YEAH recurve recurve recurve RECURVE recurve recurve recurve!!! (aka my hoodie arrived) Looks great!
Nice, just got my barebow shirt. Will be in a video or two coming up.
I nearly fell out of my bed at 4:04 cause I was startled by what I thought was a huge bug on the right bottom corner of my screen. Appears it was your black ckicken :D
Jake , for barebow put you dot at the bottom and shoot ten meters and go thru all of your crawls that will let you tune for most consistant center for all crawls . and use vic burger's tuning method for button tension and centershot .
Hey Jd can you share any info about Vic Berger and his tuning method? I've looked and can't find any info online
@@adrianyee2634 try looking up burger button tuning manuel
@@adrianyee2634 ok I looked also so there is nothing out there on it but I will do my best to explain. Burger button tuning put a dot at the bottom of your target use a plum Bob and put a piece of string or thin tape about two feet long straight up from the dot. Now shoot an arrow at each crawl at a distance of 10 yards . Shoot one arrow at each crawl from 15 yards thru 40 yards . If your arrows hit the target in a half moon shape from center to left side and back to center center is out to far. If arrows hit center and continue left tension on plunger is to stiff. This is exact opposite for center shot inside or tension to loose. All of the above is for Right handed archers for left hand is just opposite . I hope that explains it so you can perfectly tune your bow to center shot based on your individual equipment . Any other questions please ask but I do sometimes go for periods of time checking my emails, but I will do my best to get back to you.
Jake, just subbed, I'm loving your content. I'm a beginner archer with aspirations of one day competing in the Olympics, this is really helpful!
Glad to help!
Would be nice if you could do it for your barebow set up and shoot it out :) thx
Awsome!! Idea after idea I'am getting from you. Thanks!
Thanks, Jake! More great stuff!
Just subscribed I’m a newbie can use all the help I can get thanks in advance
Nice explanation. Good information.
Always amazing info, Thank you, Jake.
I hope it helps, and hope the wind wasn’t too bad
Thanks Jake Great video
This would tricky with a barebow. You would have to use the same crawl for your walk back tuning, but then when crawling down the string everything would change. One way that may work would be to use the crawl for that distance as you walk back so you factor in the change in tune. Your arrows would not drop as the distance increases, but would hit increasingly to the left or right if the centreshot is wrong. This just a thought, I have never tried it
Imho it wouldn’t change center shot unless you were using a barreled shaft.
Old video, but you called me out as being unsubscribed...lol to be fair only found your page last night.
What a great Guy! Thx Jake!
Hi Jake, great videos! I get a little confused when you're discussing set-up, loading, anchor, transfer, expansion, etc. It would be great if you had a video explaining each of the terms and showing us the entire shot sequence.
Have you checked out the form series? I just did a video summarizing the shot cycle and have covered every step and detail thus far.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Thanks Jake! I found it and it was just what I was asking for! RUclips didn't show it under the form series, so I had to hunt for it.
Hi Jake, I've found that I could manage to get the dynamic centre shot just by shooting at 2 distances 90m and 30m. if my groups is centred at 90m and then is to the left or right at 30m, just adjusting plunger the centre shot to bring the 30m group to the centre seems to be a quick way to do this. I've double check with a real walk back and this seems to be a quick way to quickly get dynamic centre shot without having to do a full walk back
Hi Jake, would this method also be applicable to barebow shooting where you use the arrow to aim with, which means that you align the arrow with the target dot? When you use a sight, the sight is aligned with the dot, while the arrow could point to the right or to the left depending on your center shot setting.
Im really interested in this question as well.
How about BB ? Does it change with stringwalking ?
exacly the same question i was about to ask. My guess is that u cant string-walk while moving back.
So lets say u find where to put your fingers at 10m to hit the black dot. then when u move back 5 steps you have to put your fingers at the same place on the string and aim at the black dot.
it would be the same as a recurve shooter not adjusting the sight.
Thats my theory on BB but i might be wrong.
Does this method require bareshafts?
Hi Jake, i do have a question that I'd appreciate your take on, but firstly want to say thanks for all your videos, they're great and don't worry about the little comments. It's simple to use apps/google to convert measurements either way, people are just being lazy and thats not your problem.
Question: you mentioned that centre shot can change dynamic arrow spine, but not how. I'm right handed and my arrows are drifting left 6" from 20y to 40y. My bareshafts are slightly weak (about 4-6" right of fletched, which stays the same at 20, 30 and 40y). If I move my centre shot slightly inwards/right to correct it, would this stiffen or weaken the arrows?
Thanks again!
No need for a level.
Put an arrow in the top of the bail.
Tie a 4 foot length of para cord to the arrow.
Tie a small weight to the paracord.
Let the whole paracord be free to swing.
Then do Jakes walk back method :-)
Also works for compound tuning.
I do.. 5m, 15m, 30m
I used to do plumb bobs but I’m lazy and have the framing level laying around.
.... Can you use this for barebow, if so how? I was watching the video getting ready to setup a new riser, and I just realized I don't have any bowsights on any of my bows currently, I need to get one at some point. I have been shooting instinctual for the last 20 years. Would attempting this without any form of sight reference tell you anything, or would your brain just compensate for errors in your center shot as you walk back?
Got a chance to shoot the new riser today, and doing a walk back absolutely did help. My Plunger was off by about 0.5mm and going from 40m to 10m my vertical plane changed about 5-6in. Quick adjustment and I can walk in from 45m, stopping every 10m or so, and all my arrows stack vertically. Thanks for the info Jake, love the channel and your content.
Finally we can see the roosters!
I shoot a bare bow off the shelf. How do I correct for this.
Normally use a plum-bob when setting up my Centre shot.try to cut the line
I’m having a problem running out of windage far left, I have 3 lines left to the right I’m hitting middle like this but it’s not right. Thanks in advance.🙏🏽
awwww, I wish I was Jake's neighbor :'(
Then again...that would mean I'd have to live in Florida lol
The trade-offs are SO HUGE!!!!!
Also, I don't see a new bare shaft tuning vid linked, like you mentioned in the video :P
Disable veteran just learning how to use a bow mainly for range of motion but I got hook and now I want to be the best I can be at this . Jake where do I get that target?
If I don't have that big of a bale, in theory as I walk back I could adjust the low-up sight without touching right left. No? And adjust the right-left discrepancy with the plunger as I walk back?
Can you use the same theory for a compound bow also?
You can run a streak of water down the target if you don’t have a spirit level 💁🏼♂️ and draw a line right down next to it
I appreciate the ingenuity however this is CRITICAL to get right.
Jake Kaminski oh yea I get that. Definitely. I’m just looking at it from my level of shooting as my groups/form are not that great yet. I meant it as a tuning starting point ( better that having a centre shot waaaay off )
Or Just a string with a weight
Herrera Gonza I was going to mention it but I just love the simplicity of the level
Does this tunning method work when you shoot with your bow canted?
It sounds really great but as a novice I would probably need to work on release, form etc before trying to do any fine tuning, isn't it ?
Then if I have a terrible setup (plunger, limbs, brace height, ... all wrong) how can I detect it, fix it ?
When could I consider my bow is setup enough to tell that I should see progress and better groupings before I spend time on tuning ?
Btw thanks for all your videos !
Hi, Jake! Does the paper test works in barebow? Do you use it for tuning your centershot in barebow?
P.S. thank you for everything you do🙏🏻
hi Jake, quick question if I may. I have your tuning book, but unsure should I do walk back turning before of after aligning my sight pin (up and down) position.
Great video Jake, please keep up the good work by making these videos. If only have one question to you:
To me they always told that a straight diagonal line (either to right or left) you have to respectively increase or decrease (for a RH archer) your plunger tension.
If you end up with a curved line (starting at top, ending on the line at most far distance), you have to correct this by plunger position.
Googleing for recurve walk back tuning shows me this pictures as well.
Can you please comment if they learned me the wrong thing, or that I misinterpretated your explanation??
Ive never resolved issues according to what the other methods say, I stated in this video that the curved lines are from contact issues or badly tuned equipment. Angled lines are fixed by center shot, tuning and groups are fixed with tension.
Is it recommended to bareshaft tune your bow first?
I am a compound archer and I found that if I paper tune and get bullet holes, my center shot will end up being extremely close already. So I was wondering if that applies to recurve bows.
EDIT: After watching the video, it seems like I need a decent base line tune. Then I'm suppose to set my center shot before finalizing my tune
What if you have a regular recurve and not an ILF?
All the same, if you can adjust your center shot that is.
Can you explain to me, a beginner, would you want to bare shaft tune your arrows first or does this walback method take the place of bareshaft tuning?
you must get a rough bare shaft tune to start and then do a final bareshaft again.
Correct me if I'm wrong here, But if your arrow spine was off wouldn't this also show a similar pattern at further distances.. How would you distinguish if its actually a center shot issue or a spine issue ?
For example.. I have setup a bow that I know has the arrow slightly outside of centre, I'm left handed so to the right ever so slightly.. At close distance everything is fine, as I progressively move further away, 30 meters, arrows show a weak spine indication, start landing further to the left..
Correct, this is why I mention the bow much be relatively tuned before doing this.
T-Turning 👍
This video is very very usefull for an olympic recurve shooter.
Can it be used by a barebow shooter as well? Or according to you string walking tecnique will affect these evaluetions??
Thanks!
I was wondering the same thing. Can you use the 10m crawl and just do a walk back?
Does the gold medalists have a RUclips channel?
Have u used longbow limbs on olympic risers before, if so what r ur thoughts n if/when it's seen how do ppl react???
A longbow is a 5 or 6 foot long piece of shaped wood, you cant put them on an ILF riser.
@@sahhull yes I have ILF longbow limbs
This is probably a stupid question, so do I move the sight pin first at 10m till I can hit that point? I have everything centered, string, sight pin, limbs, arrow tip and arrow hits left of target at 10m.
Yeah just move your sight to hit the dot at 10m
Could you please explain relation between centershot, plunger tension, limb tension to sight horizontal position. Sometimes I struggle with tunning where correctly bareshaft/walkback tuned bow require me to put sight so far left (RH archer) that sight screw is to short. It bugs me because when I'm aiming down the range I see my stabiliser pointing far to the right in relation to where Im aiming. For the record I'm aiming by puting string picture close to the right edge of sight pin. Maybe horizonat sight position you end up after whole tunning process is something to make video about?
Yes I can.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Please do :D
I shoot a hunting style ILF bow, and I'm a gap shooter. Is there a way that I could make this work for me? As I move back my arrrows hit higher if I aim at the same place, till I reach my point on, then they start to drop. Should I start with my point on, around 35yds then go back till the arrows are getting to the bottom of the butt?
I would figure out how to use your standard anchor, no crawl (obviously) and start at 10M, you may need to aim low, say 1/2way down the target on the line and then do your walk back from there. Really you do not need to have the arrows falling in a descending fashion, as long as you know which arrows were shot at what distance.
Please make a Paper Tuning video....Thank you
I will.
Might not be what you are looking for but I have my reasons.
What is a center shot?
Is there anything special about 10m? Or is it any set of distances that fit on one bale? (e.g. 20m-55m)
Once you go closer to 10m your sight moves down the sight rail. So this helps you from missing high as you move back. Always start at 10 and move back.
I just subscribed...
🐓🐓🐔🐔🐔 chickens...
Jake, I want to like you, I’m also subscribed, but could you slow it down? Us beginners don’t understand everything you’re saying. It seems like most of the jargon you use is geared towards the more experienced shooters. I understand what you’re doing but I don’t always understand why because of some of the jargon.
If you have a plumber bob , that would be much more accurate
I don’t understand how this works if you don’t shoot the exact same shot every time
Group of shots in gun shooting means like 4 shots. Enough high probability to draw conclusions about group size.
Jake I don't think your level is good. The vertical line is crooked. line goes from top center to more left as normal below
The target is not level, or even close to level. The ground the target is on isn’t level either. Plus I may not have had my camera set level either.
Just using a tripod with a pistol grip from my spotting scope setup haha
talk in yardage please
Everything in archery is in meters in regards to Olympic style archery.
30m is 33yds
50m is 55yds.
Just add 10%
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I'm not in the Olympics and I dought if many are still would like in yardage this is the United States not some other country we do inches and yardage here much simpler for most of us thank you
Good info but a little bit to wordy. Stay on course with what you're trying to impart and don't digress as much.
...
It's nice but your explanation is so fast I can't follow it. Is it possible for you to speak slower?
You can slow down the play speed
I won't subscribe because we don't use meters in America
“I thought this was America”
Минус, потому что такая настройка известна давно, а ваши рассуждения не совсем верны.
Русская народная пословица «Слышал звон, да не знает, где он» - о человеке, который сам недостаточно или только с чужих слов знает то, о чём говорит.