Intro to Weathering Pigments
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- This is an instructional video collated from Ep 4 & 15 Live Streams (July 4 & Aug 11, 2021) that focuses on the basics of using pigments for replicating earth effects on ground vehicles.
Click the Playlist tab to watch all the videos on Pigments
Link to Ep4 Live Stream: • Ep 4 - OPR, Pigments &...
Link to Ep15 Live Stream: • Ep 15 - Armor Weatheri...
SUBSCRIBE & SUPPORT ~
Books: www.rinaldistu...
Instagram: / rinaldistudio
Patreon: / rinaldistudiopress
Big YES to this type of videos. Pure concentrated knowledge.
I really like this format for your videos without the split screen regardless if the video is short or long. Shows the technique clearly without distraction and of course the audio description adds immensely. Thank you posting your videos.
cheers, Graham
Glad you like them!
Love the bite-sized tutorials!
I really enjoy these shorts! Keep up the great work.
Very helpful, thanks for your time ans effort
Great tutorial once again mate.
Thanks for sharing another great video ❤😊
Thanks Mike. Good review.
Any time!
Loving these short format videos Mike ❤
Thank you again Mike! Very nice tutorial/addition to your books. It makes it all just that little bit more clearer.
Belgium greetings and keep ‘em coming 😉
Luke
Cool, thanks!
These revisiting videos are proving a great hit Mike. Many thanks for doing them my friend. Speak soon
More to come!
Getting your books for certain but love these shorts that are to the point - thanks!
Awesome, thank you!
Great video, thanks for this, Mike! I've struggled with fixing pigments. Purpose-made fixers always seem to leave a glossy residue. Or if I use only thinner, its binding properties seem inadequate, and one sneeze eradicates everything 😅My take-away from this video is layering. You stress that point. I'll try employing a little more patience in the process, and build the effect gradually.
You might want to test out various ratios, you might have too much pigments and too little fixer for a proper binding. Also, outside the scope of this intro video, avoid enamel and lacquer thinners, they evaporate too fast and don't bind well enough. If you don't already then use X-20A as a baseline and get it to work properly, that should work well for most paints.
Brand Fixer's usually contain gloss varnish, and why you see that result, as I mentioned in the video. If you use them, stick to it only with the first application layer, then build up the mud on top and use a thinner as shown. They'll dry more consistently.
@@rs.p Excellent, thanks for the advise Mike!
Thanks for this. I just built a Takom T-55, and I've been struggling with creating crusted mud effects
Wow, perfect timing! I started started trying pigments for the first time tonight. I’m trying to apply a “city dust after the battle” look, on a last ditch flak gun in red oxide. Any chance you could make a video(or a short) on working with pigments for a dust effect some time in the future?
hmm i usually layer pigments over oils, mix them with oils, or mix with white glue. i dont really like using them dry
01:41 I mention that element, and you're only using a part of their capabilities by limiting how you apply pigments. This combo will broaden your range of results past your current applications mentioned, and/or also used in conjunction with them
Great video. Was wondering can you recommend pigment brands. I use vallejo but they don't seem to sit/apply the same. It seems like they are more damp/clingy than they should be. And yes I know this sounds silly as they are a well known brand. Cheers
A couple of thoughts, try to stick in their ecosystem, especially if you are painting with Vallejo. Then use their airbrush thinner or cleaner as a fixer and see if that improves things. If this is a mixed brand topic, then switch to Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner, it's one of the best all around choices as a fixer.
They might be a finer ground pigment, which also explains the results, you can also add in a filler too to provide volume, even dirt can help fill it out and the textural irregularities.
Or switch to Mig Prod, that's the brand I typically use.
Have you done any videos on weathering US tanks in Olive Drab? Looking at color reference photo's from the European theater, many of the Shermans looked more tan than they did green. Almost looks like a dust wash vs whitewash. I'm wondering if the effect could be achieved by approaching it as though it was a winter whitewash.
There is some early live streams that cover OD painting & weathering on a test turret. That said the process is the same, with adjustments for the colors of the subject.
What you're seeing is dust imbedded into matte OD, and no I wouldn't approach it as a whitewash. I use pigments for that task.
quick on e on the "you need a matt surface, no varnish"... yes you then mention satin/gloss varnish so that makes me assume my process of a matt varnish (VMS) passes the "matt surface" test. I paint with MiG paints (mostly Ammo but also ATOM) and find that when I am doing a pin wash and using enamel thinners to clean it that the enamel thinner I use (household low odour crap I admit) goes through the paint and primer and lifts it all up so I like using varnish just to protect it.....
I don’t use varnishes for surface protection during weathering. If you’re stripping paint you’re doing it wrong or using the wrong products
@@rs.p thanks... Could well be the crappy diy store thinner... Will continue to try
@@robertworth5328 quantity and quality matters, leaving hot chems on models (not made for them) isn’t a good idea and there are much better products and processes to add weathering faster, easier with better results 👍
@@rs.p tha ks. Will try the MiG odourless thinners I have instead
Does water work as a binder for pigments that have been applied on a flat Tamiya acrylic paint finish? I'm just starting to learn about pigments. Thanks for your informative video, Michael.
That will likely result in a weak adhesion level to the model. I recommend the same thinner of the paint you work with. Here it’s MMP, in the past a good one is X-20A acrylic thinner from Tamiya, it’s handy for a lot of different paints 👍
@rs.p Thanks for quick reply, Michael. I've been using Isopropyl Alcohol to thin Tamiya paints for airbrushing. Do you think IPA would work as a binder?
@@RB55able it can for level adhesion, main issue is it evaporates so fast it doesn’t settle into the pigments well enough to make strong bond the lower surface under it all. Thin dust looks should be okay though, heavier mud not so much
@@rs.p Thank you 😊
One last question, Michael. When you're happy with the results you've achieved with the pigments, do you use a flat clear coat spray to seal it?
🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
"promosm"