Do you need to drill right through? You could probably drill 90% depth and still tep, even if you used a slightly shorter bolt, there would still be plenty of thread engagement for this.
As always brilliant video bro. Try one of those supercheap auto petrol funnels that come in many colours, the end flexible tip is a perfect fit for vacuum cleaners👍
Is it safe to have the extra drain T-eed into the turbo return though? Would there be a possibility of clogging up the return hoses so much that it goes back into the turbo cartridge?
Hey man, just wondering once you put drain on back of the head do you delete the stock (vct head drain ) ? Or you leave it as is ? Also either way can I just use/ t vct drain port on block to return the new drain ?
Hey man i was just wondering is there any difference to weather you drain this into the sump or engine block ? As i had my Mechenic t up my old setup into the oil drain for the turbo but i have had a few people say it should have its own hose either into the sump or alternatively into the block on the intake side , what are your thoughts?
Rage garage fine to tee it into turbo drain, although ideally having its own drain in the block/sump would be ideal. Doesnt particularly make a difference whether its in the block or the sump, as long as its high on the sump so it can drain freely. I would not recommend putting it on the intake side, the crank on an RB spins clockwise (if looking at the front of the motor) and thus will create a bit of a natural vacuum on the right side of the crank (exhaust side) aiding in draining. Not that it wouldnt work on the intake side, just would work better on the hot side.
@@BoostGumps That's actually incorrect. You shouldn't do it for two reasons. One being that Nitto for example says you definetely shouldn't tee it to anywhere, instead direct drain to sump. Second potentially you could end up in situation where there is oil not draining well enough for turbo because of high flow from the back of head. For example high acceleration scenario where lots of oil has collected to back of head and flowing to drain and potentially causing damage to turbo in this case. It could be also case where actually that drain starts to act as a crankcase breather, that means that gasses flow up from crankcase and stop turbo drain flowing as the drain can act multiple way. So overall, no, it's not a good idea to do that.
Sweet! 2.5L princess content! :D 2 quick questions: - I'll probably have my Neo rebuilt in the next couple of years. Should I plan for such a drain, I've heard the Neo head had less head drainage issues than the regular 25 head? - I've just bought a set of no name 750cc, E85 friendly injectors. Vendor says they're guaranteed to be flow matched and all, but I didn't get a flow chart with them. Aaaaand apparently nobody in my area can flow test gasoline injectors (gotta love France, wooohoo!). Should I just send it? :D
mrsabidji still a great mod for the neo! Its really a very cheap thing to do, this whole drain setup cost around $100aud. Definitely something i would recommend for any 25 thats pulled down already (or even not in this case) Yeh to be honest injectors like that are a little risky imo, injectors is one thing i generally actually will pay top dollar for good quality aftermarket or oem injectors, even then its always a good idea to get the set flow tested and matched. Thats my opinion anyway 🤷♂️
@@BoostGumps Noted. I'll do the head drain thing then. :) I've found a place that will test the injectors. They were not all that far from here actually, just not very well advertised. :D I should have the results soon. :)
@@BoostGumps Definitely. And that seems a lot more productive than finding out by potentially destroying my engine. Worst case scenario, I've just wasted $200aud. :D I'll tell you how it went. :)
@@BoostGumps update on all of that: I've bought a set of proper injectors. Deatschwerks 750, I hear good things about them. Also, the engine is out of the car, because I've bought a big boy clutch kit, so we're doing the head drain, too. :)
@@BoostGumpsIt is just a way to buy more time rather than thrashing the motor before it's lubricated. That's my own answer to the key oiling issues you talked about.
Literally just got a head drain kit from Franklin Engineering arive today for my Mrs 25 build 🤙
I didnt know you could fit these with engine together, You just saved me bro, thanks.
No worries at all! Look at HighOctane Racing’s drain if you want one that doesnt require drilling. I have made a video on them as well
liking these informative vids dude
Hey what did you use for the tee piece into the turbo drain? Cheers for the helpful vid!
Do you need to drill right through? You could probably drill 90% depth and still tep, even if you used a slightly shorter bolt, there would still be plenty of thread engagement for this.
Exactly what I was thinking
Number 1
Keep the content up bro..
I’ve got an rb25 so I’m digging the content
I love this!
As always brilliant video bro.
Try one of those supercheap auto petrol funnels that come in many colours, the end flexible tip is a perfect fit for vacuum cleaners👍
Matthew Rapley thanks for the tip mate! I have a few laying around and never even thought of it!
Is it safe to have the extra drain T-eed into the turbo return though? Would there be a possibility of clogging up the return hoses so much that it goes back into the turbo cartridge?
No.
Hey man, just wondering once you put drain on back of the head do you delete the stock (vct head drain ) ? Or you leave it as is ?
Also either way can I just use/ t vct drain port on block to return the new drain ?
So if u do not have a head restrictor you need to put a head drain. I have a head restrictor I need to know if I should buy a drain to
Hey man i was just wondering is there any difference to weather you drain this into the sump or engine block ? As i had my Mechenic t up my old setup into the oil drain for the turbo but i have had a few people say it should have its own hose either into the sump or alternatively into the block on the intake side , what are your thoughts?
Rage garage fine to tee it into turbo drain, although ideally having its own drain in the block/sump would be ideal. Doesnt particularly make a difference whether its in the block or the sump, as long as its high on the sump so it can drain freely. I would not recommend putting it on the intake side, the crank on an RB spins clockwise (if looking at the front of the motor) and thus will create a bit of a natural vacuum on the right side of the crank (exhaust side) aiding in draining.
Not that it wouldnt work on the intake side, just would work better on the hot side.
@@BoostGumps That's actually incorrect. You shouldn't do it for two reasons. One being that Nitto for example says you definetely shouldn't tee it to anywhere, instead direct drain to sump. Second potentially you could end up in situation where there is oil not draining well enough for turbo because of high flow from the back of head. For example high acceleration scenario where lots of oil has collected to back of head and flowing to drain and potentially causing damage to turbo in this case. It could be also case where actually that drain starts to act as a crankcase breather, that means that gasses flow up from crankcase and stop turbo drain flowing as the drain can act multiple way. So overall, no, it's not a good idea to do that.
How add collar in crank must take crank out or can add with inside crank just installing out side in work shop ??
Do you happen to know the size of that core plug in the back of the head?
Were did you source the hose and fittings?
If im installing this rear drain, would the oil plugs be necessary, or is it unnecessary at that point?
How about Collars in stock oil pump rb25 neo ??
Sweet! 2.5L princess content! :D
2 quick questions:
- I'll probably have my Neo rebuilt in the next couple of years. Should I plan for such a drain, I've heard the Neo head had less head drainage issues than the regular 25 head?
- I've just bought a set of no name 750cc, E85 friendly injectors. Vendor says they're guaranteed to be flow matched and all, but I didn't get a flow chart with them. Aaaaand apparently nobody in my area can flow test gasoline injectors (gotta love France, wooohoo!). Should I just send it? :D
mrsabidji still a great mod for the neo! Its really a very cheap thing to do, this whole drain setup cost around $100aud. Definitely something i would recommend for any 25 thats pulled down already (or even not in this case)
Yeh to be honest injectors like that are a little risky imo, injectors is one thing i generally actually will pay top dollar for good quality aftermarket or oem injectors, even then its always a good idea to get the set flow tested and matched. Thats my opinion anyway 🤷♂️
@@BoostGumps Noted. I'll do the head drain thing then. :)
I've found a place that will test the injectors. They were not all that far from here actually, just not very well advertised. :D I should have the results soon. :)
mrsabidji awesome!! Be interesting to see how they go
@@BoostGumps Definitely. And that seems a lot more productive than finding out by potentially destroying my engine. Worst case scenario, I've just wasted $200aud. :D I'll tell you how it went. :)
@@BoostGumps update on all of that: I've bought a set of proper injectors. Deatschwerks 750, I hear good things about them. Also, the engine is out of the car, because I've bought a big boy clutch kit, so we're doing the head drain, too. :)
another answer is to let the engine warm up for 30 minutes before driving
What does that have to do with this?
@@BoostGumpsIt is just a way to buy more time rather than thrashing the motor before it's lubricated.
That's my own answer to the key oiling issues you talked about.
@@drtec6349 i see, but that has little to do with drain back issues and destroying oil pump gears in high rpm applications
I just thought, it makes better pressure when warmed up and 0w20 lightens it up a lot, burns very well.
get a tbar for your tap lol ,using a shifter looks akward as