Great job Kevin! I don't do no-prep stuff...I'm just a weekend bracket racer that sometimes has to go down some sketchy surfaces. I agree totally with your concepts.
Definitely not talking to much Kevin and repeating yourself comes with the territory to help people understand! You have gave awesome information and broke it down so lots of folks can understand great job man! Thanks for the videos!
Kevin I like the way you push what works on your car and what works on my car won't work on there car. All chassis are different and work different. Keep up the good work.
I think you do a wonderful job I'm a young chassis builder that has alot to learn and you have taught me alot that I can apply on the job and I greatly appreciate it
You are doing a great job at explaining this. I ain't heard anyone explain setups on RUclips like you. And what you saying works and is 100% correct for no prep, street, back of the track and stuff.
I’ve always really enjoyed watching your videos and I’ve learned a lot from them. I just wanted to comment in hopes of a video possibly regarding this topic: My local tracks have been having a lot of no prep “true street” which requires a DOT tire. (A Hoosier QTP is an option at some tracks that just specify DOT but most guys are running a DOT radial such as a M/T radial pro so they can run the same tire at the other local tracks that limit the tire to a radial only) I think it would be really cool to see you talk through the basics of tuning the suspension on a “no prep radial car.” I see this class growing quickly around my area and I’m sure there are plenty of guys out there like me that would find that video very useful. Thank you for all your good content!
Kevin your the man you have us cutting 1.3 60 foot at the noprep race we went to last week, and we've seen 1.3s on the street now, your advice and videos are working great The Hoosier d06 is where it is at hands down
I just started looking into 4link setup and found your videos, u break down suspension stuff as good as sloppy mechanics breaks down doing turbo Ls stuff! Thank you for putting the time into doing these videos! I have my turbo Ls mustang, RUclips taught home built th400, 4link car almost ready the last piece to my puzzle was how the rear suspension should be setup. Your videos and the link u shared for ic location has given me the confidence that I can figure this out.
Thank you so much for sharing so much information in such a clear concise manner. Now I have to decide if I’m going to build my car with ladder bar or 4 link.
Great explanation and theory. Don Ness once said that upper rear bar placement further up in the bracket tended to make the car wheelie more. Seems logical. Of course he was speaking in the very narrow window of horspower-traction relationship of prostock that is almost always IC'd to squat but he definetly recognized it as a responsive adjustment. What would be really cool is if we could outfit our suspensions with load cells and then put that into a simulation program with acceleration and attitude. It would certainly tweak our theories. Regarding your comment on CG. Yes, the car may stay level when you pick it up but only if you put it there. If you hold any object by the CG the object will stay in any attitude you place it in and does not tend to settle in a particular orientation. I believe a more accurate term we should use is Center of Mass because of how we use it in racing. Keep the videos coming. I havent thought about this stuff for over a decade and enjoy listening. Always something to learn or think about in a different way and the info will be a great reference for many for years to come
You’re an awesome teacher and great person! Thank you for the information and dumbing it down to a very relatable level. Will definitely help some up and coming people succeed!
Kevin I think your talking about the subject just right! Learning sometime takes repetition. I would like to learn about F bodies and those torque arms. We've made our Camaro run alot better from watching but that torque arm placement keeps me wondering as nobody really discuses the front hole placement and how it affects the car.
Here are 2 of my videos on torque arms: ruclips.net/video/gF69zjDos10/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/zeR0YgajMIg/видео.html I have an entire playlist also on suspension tuning. Go Fast, go straight! Be safe!
Its important that you repeat what your saying because it instills what your saying into the persons who are listing and shows that what your saying is important and you stand by it so they don't want to listen to your words they don't have to
Hi Kevin. First do not change a thing on your delivery or content. It’s perfect. I would like to think after watching your videos and my experience in racing I have a understanding in four bar set up. My question is we are building a big block blown 41 Willys in the uk the car is light weight but the class we run in dictates we use treaded street tyres. ( Hoosier quick times) 31 x 18.5 should we use your info based radial or big tyres.
And I have the red headed step child torque arm. Correct me if I’m wrong.. my IC is the point the LCA’s intersect a vertical line at front TA mount? So essentially my only AS/separation adjustment is my LCA mount point and ride height. So how can I keep separation while maintaining a flat LCA angle? Thanks for the videos man you rock
I’m curious what 60ft times should we be aiming for on small tire no prep? My best guess would be 1.8 on Virgin asphalt and closer to 1.4 by the finals. Would that at least be competitive? I’ve followed your videos and improved my times but I don’t know what I’m aiming for. Thanks for the videos
13bcadwell27 thanks so much for your comments! Yes... that is a good gauge to follow. If you can get in the 1.4's on real no prep, that is a great start! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hi. I have a 2011 s197 mustang with around 700hp I have bmrs full drag suspension with lower and and upper control arms and antiroll bar. The track I race at has 0 prep and I'm having trouble keeping the tires from spinning. Do you recommend a weight ballast in the rear?.
Rafael&Isabel Moc thanks so much for your comments! For sure... ballast close to the center top of the rear end. Also, power management is a big big key on no prep. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hi Kevin. I have a 1950 Plymouth coupe similar body style as your Ford with a high center of gravity. You had messaged me in the past about your IC, but I can't find the message and your answer. Can you tell me what that was so I might have a starting point. Thank You
Ole Deuce thanks so much for your comments! Weight for sure. Also, at the amount of torque the blown motor hit the tires, it is just a necessity. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
So I have a 4 link car that hazing the tire it initially dead hooks so from what I’m getting out it for me I need to go down one hole in the top front bar?
I was trying to use the link for baseline suspension calculator, I have all the measurements they ask for except front upper a arm bolt height, I have no upper a arm being a mustang, what value would I enter?
adriel fletcher thanks so much for your comments! Ladder bars absolutely work for no prep. Of course, front to rear weight bias is important, springs and shock valving is key. Generally a ladder bar is going to plant the tire hard and fast even in the lower chassis mount holes, so balancing the attack on the sidewall is key. For no prep, err on a lower front mount location to keep the tire planted longer through the run and keep weight moved to the rear of the car. Keeping a slow and steady front end rise is so critical. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks for the reply. I love all your videos and am trying to digest all the info you give. Thanks for all the information and look forward to many more of your videos.
The track or road or street has not been sprayed with glue and the track has not had any rubber applied to it by a tractor. At a high level, that is no prep... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you for the clarification. I'm learning a lot from your content. I run the body shop side of a resto mod shop in MN and and getting ready to set up my gasser project I am building for myself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
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Kevin i don't know about other people, but I've learned a ton from you and I've been racing 30 years. Thanks
You dont talk too much Kevin. People are lucky to get the info u put out. Thank you
Great job Kevin! I don't do no-prep stuff...I'm just a weekend bracket racer that sometimes has to go down some sketchy surfaces. I agree totally with your concepts.
Leaf spring no prep video would be awesome! All the videos are informative!
Definitely not talking to much Kevin and repeating yourself comes with the territory to help people understand! You have gave awesome information and broke it down so lots of folks can understand great job man! Thanks for the videos!
your teaching style is great! Makes it super clear what each piece of the puzzle does and doesnt run away too fast for a beginner.
Repeating it honestly helps pound it in brains more
Kevin I like the way you push what works on your car and what works on my car won't work on there car. All chassis are different and work different. Keep up the good work.
I think you do a wonderful job I'm a young chassis builder that has alot to learn and you have taught me alot that I can apply on the job and I greatly appreciate it
Hands down 100% The. Best. explanation of these principles, period. Thank! You!
Absolutely the best suspension video for no prep I’ve seen.
jcnpresser thanks so much for your comments! Wow. Thank-you! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
No prep with torque arm 4th gen F-body.
Great video!
You are doing a great job at explaining this. I ain't heard anyone explain setups on RUclips like you. And what you saying works and is 100% correct for no prep, street, back of the track and stuff.
Jason Ritter 1 thanks so much for your comments! I appreciate the compliment. Thank-you! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Been using some of your ideas on my off-road truck. Every little bit helps
hell yes glad to see you got your laptop 🤘🏼🤘🏼
this was awesome Kev! a lot of great, in depth information that i've never heard on any other channel. looking forward to the next one!
I’ve always really enjoyed watching your videos and I’ve learned a lot from them. I just wanted to comment in hopes of a video possibly regarding this topic: My local tracks have been having a lot of no prep “true street” which requires a DOT tire. (A Hoosier QTP is an option at some tracks that just specify DOT but most guys are running a DOT radial such as a M/T radial pro so they can run the same tire at the other local tracks that limit the tire to a radial only) I think it would be really cool to see you talk through the basics of tuning the suspension on a “no prep radial car.” I see this class growing quickly around my area and I’m sure there are plenty of guys out there like me that would find that video very useful. Thank you for all your good content!
Kevin your the man you have us cutting 1.3 60 foot at the noprep race we went to last week, and we've seen 1.3s on the street now, your advice and videos are working great The Hoosier d06 is where it is at hands down
T thanks so much for your comments! Nice job guys!! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hands down best explanation for this stuff ,don't change a thing thanks for your time again
I just started looking into 4link setup and found your videos, u break down suspension stuff as good as sloppy mechanics breaks down doing turbo Ls stuff! Thank you for putting the time into doing these videos! I have my turbo Ls mustang, RUclips taught home built th400, 4link car almost ready the last piece to my puzzle was how the rear suspension should be setup. Your videos and the link u shared for ic location has given me the confidence that I can figure this out.
Glad to help and you're welcome!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Thanks so much for these videos. I just ordered some Hoosiers to try some no prep on my radial car.
Thank you so much for sharing so much information in such a clear concise manner.
Now I have to decide if I’m going to build my car with ladder bar or 4 link.
Great explanation and theory. Don Ness once said that upper rear bar placement further up in the bracket tended to make the car wheelie more. Seems logical. Of course he was speaking in the very narrow window of horspower-traction relationship of prostock that is almost always IC'd to squat but he definetly recognized it as a responsive adjustment. What would be really cool is if we could outfit our suspensions with load cells and then put that into a simulation program with acceleration and attitude. It would certainly tweak our theories.
Regarding your comment on CG. Yes, the car may stay level when you pick it up but only if you put it there. If you hold any object by the CG the object will stay in any attitude you place it in and does not tend to settle in a particular orientation. I believe a more accurate term we should use is Center of Mass because of how we use it in racing.
Keep the videos coming. I havent thought about this stuff for over a decade and enjoy listening. Always something to learn or think about in a different way and the info will be a great reference for many for years to come
Good info! Ready for a leaf spring no prep video.
Ive learned so much watching your videos Kevin..Thanks Again!!
Great job. Understanding (some) of the Dynamics of a fourlink helps me with my off road build. The same principles apply. Thank you.
You’re an awesome teacher and great person! Thank you for the information and dumbing it down to a very relatable level. Will definitely help some up and coming people succeed!
got to say im very new to the no prep thing but thanks i was completely backwards on what i thought i needed.
Thanks Kevin. Really appreciate these videos. This is one I needed to see.
Kevin I think your talking about the subject just right! Learning sometime takes repetition. I would like to learn about F bodies and those torque arms. We've made our Camaro run alot better from watching but that torque arm placement keeps me wondering as nobody really discuses the front hole placement and how it affects the car.
Here are 2 of my videos on torque arms: ruclips.net/video/gF69zjDos10/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/zeR0YgajMIg/видео.html I have an entire playlist also on suspension tuning. Go Fast, go straight! Be safe!
Awesome video very informative and well presented thanks
HELLO KEVIN.. YOUR VIDEOS EXCELLENT. VERY EDUCATIONAL BUT IT WOULD BE VERY GOOD IF THEY COULD BE TRANSLATED..
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR TEACHINGS..
Great insight, thanks Kevin!
Its important that you repeat what your saying because it instills what your saying into the persons who are listing and shows that what your saying is important and you stand by it so they don't want to listen to your words they don't have to
awesome content keep it going !!
Kevin you the man
Great videos, do one on irs
Beautiful thank you, I’ve learned alot!
Hi Kevin.
First do not change a thing on your delivery or content. It’s perfect.
I would like to think after watching your videos and my experience in racing I have a understanding in four bar set up.
My question is we are building a big block blown 41 Willys in the uk the car is light weight but the class we run in dictates we use treaded street tyres. ( Hoosier quick times) 31 x 18.5
should we use your info based radial or big tyres.
Can you do a video on the rear suspension on 3rd/4th gen camaro/trans am cars. The lowe control arm/torque arm set up.
ruclips.net/video/gF69zjDos10/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/zeR0YgajMIg/видео.html are two from my channel. Go Fast, go straight! Be Safe!
Great information Thank You.
Thx Kevin
And I have the red headed step child torque arm. Correct me if I’m wrong.. my IC is the point the LCA’s intersect a vertical line at front TA mount? So essentially my only AS/separation adjustment is my LCA mount point and ride height. So how can I keep separation while maintaining a flat LCA angle?
Thanks for the videos man you rock
nsboost thanks so much for your comments! A little deeper discussion than a comment response. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I’m curious what 60ft times should we be aiming for on small tire no prep? My best guess would be 1.8 on Virgin asphalt and closer to 1.4 by the finals. Would that at least be competitive? I’ve followed your videos and improved my times but I don’t know what I’m aiming for. Thanks for the videos
13bcadwell27 thanks so much for your comments! Yes... that is a good gauge to follow. If you can get in the 1.4's on real no prep, that is a great start! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I have a question, on the IC length would that Length be from the rear axle or from the front 4 link bracket?
Hi. I have a 2011 s197 mustang with around 700hp I have bmrs full drag suspension with lower and and upper control arms and antiroll bar. The track I race at has 0 prep and I'm having trouble keeping the tires from spinning. Do you recommend a weight ballast in the rear?.
Rafael&Isabel Moc thanks so much for your comments! For sure... ballast close to the center top of the rear end. Also, power management is a big big key on no prep. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hi Kevin. I have a 1950 Plymouth coupe similar body style as your Ford with a high center of gravity. You had messaged me in the past about your IC, but I can't find the message and your answer. Can you tell me what that was so I might have a starting point. Thank You
Mighty Mopar thanks for commenting. Go to samsonperformance.com and shoot me an email and I will respond. Go fast, go straight!
What about stiff sidewalls, is that more for weight, or track surface
Ole Deuce thanks so much for your comments! Weight for sure. Also, at the amount of torque the blown motor hit the tires, it is just a necessity. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Hey buddy, any way I could call you? I would like to talk about 4 link rear engine dragster. How does a 4link dragster compare with a door car
So I have a 4 link car that hazing the tire it initially dead hooks so from what I’m getting out it for me I need to go down one hole in the top front bar?
no prep with ladder bars same concept?
I was trying to use the link for baseline suspension calculator, I have all the measurements they ask for except front upper a arm bolt height, I have no upper a arm being a mustang, what value would I enter?
Matt, the upper control arms are triangulated from the top of the rear end center section to the chassis. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Lol I gotcha, not the front a arm bolt height.
What about ladder bars in no prep
adriel fletcher thanks so much for your comments! Ladder bars absolutely work for no prep. Of course, front to rear weight bias is important, springs and shock valving is key. Generally a ladder bar is going to plant the tire hard and fast even in the lower chassis mount holes, so balancing the attack on the sidewall is key. For no prep, err on a lower front mount location to keep the tire planted longer through the run and keep weight moved to the rear of the car. Keeping a slow and steady front end rise is so critical. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thanks for the reply. I love all your videos and am trying to digest all the info you give. Thanks for all the information and look forward to many more of your videos.
Can someone tell me what no prep is?
The track or road or street has not been sprayed with glue and the track has not had any rubber applied to it by a tractor. At a high level, that is no prep... Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you for the clarification. I'm learning a lot from your content. I run the body shop side of a resto mod shop in MN and and getting ready to set up my gasser project I am building for myself. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Great information, thank you Kevin.