Couple of comments. String the chassis to find the centerline & measure 4 link chassis bracket locations to ensure they are exact side to side & front to back FIRST. If not, everything measured from there on will be off & you will have to start over. Using the string method eliminates measuring from ball joints (or other components) as well as if the car has staggered front wheelbase. Another reason for establishing centerline is getting wheelie bars square to the centerline. When there's rear steer the wheelie bars should be adjusted to the centerline. Another method of measuring pinion angle is to remove the driveshaft from the equation. Measure rear end housing angle & Engine/Trans angle then calculate from there. Great videos, thank you for sharing!
You couldn't have nailed a better explanation better. As a guy who knows nothing about how to setup a 4 link I now feel like if I had one I could adjust it with some confidence.
I went to ADRS in 1983 in April Sacramento Cal. this is what I learned exactly 40 years ago and that was the dark ages of fourlink with over 200 ICs and CG that racers and chassis builders did not understand back then...great video
Big help! Actually doing my first ladder bar set up on my ‘66 GTO. One challenge I have to overcome is the fact that I have the bare frame at my place, whereas the body is at my buddy’s body shop having rust work done.
Find one point on the sub frame inside or out doesn't matter drop plum bob mark it on the floor. Go to the other side an the exact same location on the sub frame from the other side do the same plumb bob it. Do the same in the rear then measure between the two points on the front. Find half way an do the same in the rear. An you can chalk line the two center marks front to rear. You have to make sure your ok with your car setting in the shop where you make it until your done.
There are usually factory holes that were used to align all the sheet metal parts in the factory fixtures prior to welding. These work great so long as the car was never in an accident.
Good video. When you say that you can't use the 4 link to preload in a stock suspension car...do you feel this holds true even when you add a wishbone? In my experience, even a triangulated setup will be able to use the upper bars to preload IF you have added a wishbone to the "stock suspension" mustang or G body Thanks
You guys make amazing stuff. My question is do you feel like your small tire 4 link kit would be a good choice for say an 83 chevy truck street/strip vehicle ? Or do you have a better suggestion? Thank you. Great video
Does't the rotational force of the driveline plant the left rear tire harder. The car squating on the right is just a byproduct of this and is decieving that the right tire is being planted harder when in reality its trying to lift the right rear tire.
There is an in depth answer to this in our previous "4 Link 101" video posted here on the channel. Check it out! ruclips.net/video/LECIF02_rCk/видео.html
So how bad or abnormal is it for an old car to be 1/2-1/4in off in triangulation to the front. How bad is it if my left bars will have to be 2-3 turns shorter than? Im really stuck on my rebuild, i could really use some advice
Couple of comments. String the chassis to find the centerline & measure 4 link chassis bracket locations to ensure they are exact side to side & front to back FIRST. If not, everything measured from there on will be off & you will have to start over.
Using the string method eliminates measuring from ball joints (or other components) as well as if the car has staggered front wheelbase. Another reason for establishing centerline is getting wheelie bars square to the centerline. When there's rear steer the wheelie bars should be adjusted to the centerline.
Another method of measuring pinion angle is to remove the driveshaft from the equation. Measure rear end housing angle & Engine/Trans angle then calculate from there.
Great videos, thank you for sharing!
A Educated customer is the best. Has a class are type of racing ET .And then theirs the rest .ProStreet guy that Champagne taste on a beer budget
You couldn't have nailed a better explanation better. As a guy who knows nothing about how to setup a 4 link I now feel like if I had one I could adjust it with some confidence.
I went to ADRS in 1983 in April Sacramento Cal. this is what I learned exactly 40 years ago and that was the dark ages of fourlink with over 200 ICs and CG that racers and chassis builders did not understand back then...great video
Awesome video. A lot of useful information. Thank you guys. Tin Soldiers for the win.
Thanks 🤘
Very very informative videos. Badass fellas, always happy to see a video like this from the Brain 🤘🏼😁🤘🏼
Good video. Ryan’s car has come a long way.
Excellent 4 link setup video! Y’all rock!
Thanks so much 🤘
About the best tutorial on function and set up I can remember.
Big help! Actually doing my first ladder bar set up on my ‘66 GTO. One challenge I have to overcome is the fact that I have the bare frame at my place, whereas the body is at my buddy’s body shop having rust work done.
Man I love your explanations. Thank you 🤘🏻
Glad you like them!
I’m understanding the 4link system more and more thxman
What is the most accurate way to find the middle of the car in the front? I have a stock susp. foxbody. Love the How To vids, thanks!
Find one point on the sub frame inside or out doesn't matter drop plum bob mark it on the floor. Go to the other side an the exact same location on the sub frame from the other side do the same plumb bob it. Do the same in the rear then measure between the two points on the front. Find half way an do the same in the rear. An you can chalk line the two center marks front to rear. You have to make sure your ok with your car setting in the shop where you make it until your done.
There are usually factory holes that were used to align all the sheet metal parts in the factory fixtures prior to welding. These work great so long as the car was never in an accident.
Another great video, VERY informative and well explained!
Glad you liked it!
Great Video with good technical information. Thank you for sharing this info as I know this is from years of experience and invaluable information.
Thanks for watching!
Lots of great information! I learned a lot of tricks. Thanks for being so detailed!
Glad it was helpful!
Another killer video guys! Keep it up!
Thanks man 🤘
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
glad you guys are doing these
More to come 🤘
Great video, you do an awesome job of explaining stuff.
Glad you think so!
Good video.
When you say that you can't use the 4 link to preload in a stock suspension car...do you feel this holds true even when you add a wishbone?
In my experience, even a triangulated setup will be able to use the upper bars to preload IF you have added a wishbone to the "stock suspension" mustang or G body
Thanks
Awesome as always Big Brad...
🤘
Another fantastic video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic info
Great video guys!
Thanks so much!
Awesome info THANKS....
awesome video. thanks !
Glad you liked it 🤘
Great video 🤘🏻
Thanks!
You guys make amazing stuff. My question is do you feel like your small tire 4 link kit would be a good choice for say an 83 chevy truck street/strip vehicle ? Or do you have a better suggestion? Thank you. Great video
Thx's 4 The Info Guy's...!
You're welcome!
Hey , when are y’all going to get more hats in the merch shop ?
14:15 looks like it would be good for a drag car.
Thanks!
Welcome!
Great video
Thanks Eddie! Glad you enjoyed it 🤘
Does't the rotational force of the driveline plant the left rear tire harder. The car squating on the right is just a byproduct of this and is decieving that the right tire is being planted harder when in reality its trying to lift the right rear tire.
Do you guys have or do a 4 link for a 4th gen Camaro?
Great info.
Glad you think so!
How would you set up a torque arm car?
Where'd ya get that chair?!!
Does a 4 link calculator also work for stock triangulated 4 link?
good tech
Thanks
Awesome!!!!
Thanks!
That was most interesting good video😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄😄👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Hey guys, question for ya... what affects the car more, the anti-squat percentage or the instant center length & height???
There is an in depth answer to this in our previous "4 Link 101" video posted here on the channel. Check it out!
ruclips.net/video/LECIF02_rCk/видео.html
So how bad or abnormal is it for an old car to be 1/2-1/4in off in triangulation to the front. How bad is it if my left bars will have to be 2-3 turns shorter than? Im really stuck on my rebuild, i could really use some advice
Nice video
Thanks
😎
🤘
Just an inch of shaft
Sometimes an inch of shaft is all you need
Height Heighth Hike
Don't want too but I'm unsubscribing to your channel the upcoming video has stopped my live stream subscription watching
Your wrong
*You're
🫶💪😎