No Prep Unequal Length 4 Links Shorter Upper 4 Link bars | No prep 4 Link Setup Secrets
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- No Prep Unequal Length 4 Links Shorter Upper 4 Link bars | No prep 4 Link Setup Secrets and why they work!! These are 4 link secrets most don't want to talk about!
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This video covers 2 main advantages of unequal length 4 link bars with the top bars shorter than the bottom bars! Must watch for all no prep racers! How to setup 4 link suspension for no prep with shorter upper bars. This also applies to triangulated 4 link setups. Must watch for No Prep 4 Link Setup and 4 Link suspensions explained with many more suspension setup tuning.
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There should be way more thumbs up in this and every other video Kevin has made show the love back where all given
TurboMonza thanks so much for your comments! I appreciate you supporting my channel. I don't take that for granted. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC no problem kevin love the content and have watched every video at least 3 times to really get it. has made it alot easier while building my monza and what type of parts to buy and use to do it once.
Hi Kevin, first, I want to thank you for your years of experience that you so freely give. It’s evident that you do this for the love of racing, and helping those of us that really need some help. For several years I ran squat in my cars, but this time I couldn’t seem to get enough . I had six rub marks on my driveshaft vs the tunnel, and it still wasn’t hooking. Went to the internet, very frustrated, and started reading and watching video. You explain it the best in my mind.
I have a fox body, factory rear springs, double adjustable Strange shocks, BMR lower adjustable control arms, and relocation brackets. UMI upper adjustable control arms.
On the center hole of the lower control arms, and the stock heighth of the upper control arms the I/C is really short, maybe 30”. If I rotate the upper control arms and install them upside down, as they are really offset at the diff end, they wouldn’t be so quick to intersect angles with the lower control arms. The I/C would likely change to about 50”.
Do you think that would increase traction for the car, or decrease traction? It would still be above I/C either way.
Lots going on here for a YT comment... so checkout my website at www.samsonperformance.com/store/p1/RemoteSuspensionTuning.html and let's connect so I can help you more. Also, my next video on dig vs separate will help you!! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
👍👍👍 great video
Info is always good. Do you have any real world theories on triangulated 4links for the street. With a fixed ride height. Thanks
Great video Kevin, explained well and easy to follow. Thank you!
Thanks so much, Peter!! Stay tuned, I have some more on the way! Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
Have you ever put a load cell or strain gauge on the upper bar to show they are under tension? I think that would be interesting to monitor.
Really interesting discussion, I have seen the TSRC brackets. Thanks for your input!
mark lottero thanks so much for your comments! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Excellent video , a question you may shed some light on , I'm looking at re doing my 4 link I first made it equal length 4link with adjustable long arms approx 32" bars with watts link as I wanted it as an all round street/track car
But it wheel spins and axle tramps at the strip
It's in a Hilux (Tacoma) 2wd
If I changed rear to the much shorter unequal length like the tin soldiers setup would it still handle ok for street use or would it unplant the front end any time power is applied while cornering that's my main concern ?
Thanks dan
Hei Kevin! Good video! I have a question, does the different lenght bars help me when i'm on a big tire(102" wheelbase) car, mostly on no-prep. All best !
Hey Kevin. Any good suggestion on certain kinds of tools that every drag racer should have in the garage (measurement tool, gauges, ect.)? Love the videos keep them up!!!
George Schoenlein thanks so much for your comments! Digital angle finder for sure. Tape measure, good quality. Scales are a game changer so you can stop guessing! I do have some high quality plumb bobs to help me make sure I understand centerlines and chassis square. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Thx Kevin
Finally learning that racing is an all about power and your videos are tremendous at explaining how to properly set up your car to go fast. Just a question, I have a triangulated for link in my Caprice do these concepts apply? Shooting for the 10s(street car)
Thomas Burrows thanks so much for your comments! Yes, these apply to triangulated 4 links. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC thank you so much! learning a lot from your videos!
@@tmsburrows Ayeeeee caprice I like it! I’ve got a 86 that I’m trying to get into the low 6s in the 1/8th, these videos are amazing
Thanks for confiming this. The idea was in my head.
Any plans for irs anti squat video(s)? Or any suggestions of any that looked good / informative?
Exalted RC thanks so much for your question! IRS video this week. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
We have an s10 with 4 link and shorter upper bars as described. We've pulled some 1.2 - 60' times but I think there's still room for improvement. We are using competition engineering 3 way adjustable coil overs and I don't think they are working out. What would you suggest trying next?
Ben Burke thanks so much for your comments and question! I recommend you call Penske Racing shocks and speak to Jerry. I get nothing from Penske for recommending them to you directly, but I know their shocks work because I currently run them. I have also done videos on Strange Engineering and Vi-King shocks. I am working to get some videos out on Afco and Santhuff shocks soon. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
How does the cam center line rising say 6-8 inches from front suspension travel effect the anti squat. I might just jack my car up into the position it is in going down the track and measure it.
ssmnt355 thanks so much for your question! The front end rising definitely aids in the transfer of weight as you raise the CG of the car. Also, that will take anti squat away from the suspension. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Every professionally built chassis car I've tuned on all have shorter upper bars. The Performance Trends 4 Link Calculator will show you the dynamic changes in IC on launch compared with static.
Austin Boil thanks so much for your comments! It works for sure! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I'm converting my ladder bar, lowered 81 Camaro with 500 ponies and a stick shift tranny into a 4 link setup for better street-ability.
This car won't be raced or auto-crossed at all, I just want it to drive nice, hook up the best it can with probably 100% anti-squat and wide street tires.
I'm designing the brackets and bars that will be installed.
Question, some sites state for best street manners, you want a level to the road bottom bar, and a equal length, and parallel top bar. I will be adding a super beefy diagonal link.
What are some do's and don'ts, for a street setup?
I'm leaning towards a bottom bar that is as long and low as possible, with it angled up toward the front chassis mount probably 1", and having a top bar that is level with the ground and around 75% the length of the bottom bar. I seen a post where it said that you want to rear axle centerline to track perfectly vertical.
What do you think?
Does the Z axis matter for the anti squat?
- is a triangulated 4 link different from a parallel 4 link
The Carls JR thanks so much for your comments! The triangulated top bars don't impact traction per se', but with this you really struggle with any preload as the top bar angles will shift the rear end left to right in the chassis. Don't get hung up on the z axis. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
What would you run for opinion angle
Ronnie Young thanks so much for your question! I would generally start around 2.5 degrees. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
what about a leaf spring car for no prep? is there a disadvantage?
63 chevyll thanks so much for your question! I would not say it is at a disadvantage per se', but if I had my choice, I am going with the unequal length 4 links. Checkout ruclips.net/video/EsnDUQjpInU/видео.html and stay tuned for more of a leaf spring no prep video. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Leaf springs with Caltracs give tunable body separation
Why does the front upper and lower control arm height change at different rates?
D thanks so much for your question! The lower bar is further down the chassis in this setup, but when you factor in front end lift, the difference is not much. Even if the 2 pickups raise at the same amount with the shorter upper bar, the IC still lengthens. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
Is this the same principle for short upper triangulated 4 link setups?
Good question, I'd like to know the answer also
Rick Shults thanks so much for your question! Yes, same principle! Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
does this work on bigtire?
I go this route for more true back of the track with small tires. For big tires, I generally stick with equal length 4 link, but it is all up to the car and chassis setup. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
@@KevinWilsonSBC this is my car m.ruclips.net/video/xMMwvqKi6qg/видео.html
I drive 90% at street and noprep scene
Engine height is overlooked
Subtítulos in spanish please . A hug!
Are you considering the length of the bars as leverage against the chassis?
yep... there are so many factors involved with the entire combination of the car. The shorter upper bars are very fast reacting. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!!
@@KevinWilsonSBC I does make good sense though.being quicker to react for the street.at least. It seems like it would tend to get up under the chassis with less effort and sooner because the leverage would be fighting against the travel not working with it to help lift the car. After thinking about it your 100% right. Thanks for the insight.
👍
Is it possible to convert a ladder bar car to this?
Layton Turpin thanks so much for your question! With fabrication on the rear end and chassis side you can. To get the angles and geometry right, there is *no* bolt-on type conversion that I would recommend. Go fast, go straight! Be Safe!!
I'm literally going to be doing this to my ladder car this winter! I'll be designing the bolt on brackets, then send it to my cousin to get lazer cut out! My car was supposed to be for racing when I was younger, now it's just a weekend cruiser. All the clinking around on the street with heim joints is getting old. I'll be going all urethane joints and UMI roto-joints for the diagonal link.