How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor | This Old House
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- This Old House host Kevin O'Connor assists epoxy-coating expert Doug Fasching in creating a good-looking, hardwearing, stain-resistant garage floor. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: bit.ly/Subscrib...
Shopping List for How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor:
- two-part garage-floor epoxy with color flakes [amzn.to/2PUJ6lY]
- biodegradable degreaser [amzn.to/2HbPnHe], for cleaning oily stains from garage floor
- acid [amzn.to/2JuJ8Qv], used to acid-etch concrete floor surface
- chemical-resistant rubber boots [amzn.to/2Jdl6u2], rubber gloves [amzn.to/2vMobs2] and eye goggles [amzn.to/2YhEitU], required when acid-etching the floor
Tools for How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor:
- garden hose [amzn.to/2PUTBWp], used to rinse floor clean during surface-prep process
- plastic sprinkling can [amzn.to/2Yg4ipr], used to apply acid
- long-handled scrub brush [amzn.to/2Ve6Rqe], for cleaning floor
- 3-inch paintbrush [amzn.to/2PUOjdC], used to cut in epoxy around floor perimeter
- paint roller [amzn.to/2VbVVcD] and extension poles [amzn.to/2VptGwf], used to epoxy garage floor
- wet/dry vacuum [amzn.to/2VgedcZ], for cleaning floor
About This Old House TV:
This Old House is the No. 1 multimedia home enthusiast brand, offering trusted information and expert advice through award-winning television, a highly regarded magazine, and an information-driven website. This Old House and Ask This Old House are produced by This Old House Ventures, LLC and are presented on PBS by WETA Washington, DC.
Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House:
Facebook: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
Twitter: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
bit.ly/AskTOHTw...
Pinterest: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
Instagram: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
bit.ly/AskTOHIG
Tumblr: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
For more on This Old House and Ask This Old House, visit us at: bit.ly/ThisOldH...
How to Epoxy Coat a Garage Floor | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse
I work in a paint store. Whenever I have anyone say they are doing epoxy for the first time I always make them watch this video. Even if they are Spanish speaking they get it. I used to have complaints because they would mess up somewhere, but since I started using this video to show them the process it hasn't happened since. Great video, guys! :D
Those color flakes are important. Without them it would be far too easy to spot any nut or bolt or tiny screw you drop. But with them added you have lots of little spots to catch your eye and distract you.
@@brandonk8677 Do...do you work for Spartan Epoxies?
Camden Dexter yeah, I did this with a buddy for his garage, this was super simple and easy. results look good enough, like no one's gonna state at your garage floor 6 inches away... I don't think you need anything super fancy for a garage LOL.
like for example, professional house painters will sand your walls and between coats, but how many diy people do you see doing that? just paint the stuff on, let dry and touch-up lmao
Flakes and anti-slip sand are the two dumbest things people do. Skip them. Clean up is easier if you actually do stuff in your garage.
Good reply lol
@@davec.3198 anti-slip is important. You spill a bit of oil on your smooth epoxy floor and you don't stand a chance of staying upright.
"the floor feels dry"
"How dry should it be?"
"Dry"
Lol.
ChErRyaVe20pK haha 😂
lol. Funny. But we all know there are people out there who will want to start before it's completely dry... have to play down to the lowest denominator with ppl.
Jeenyus!
Two tips.
1) to fill in cracks, use a paint thickener such as cabosil to make a thick puddy with the epoxy. Apply with a small trowel or squeegee before the first coat.
2) broadcast the chips by hand by throwing into the air to allow the chips to evenly disperse
wouldnt it crack again
@@randomrazr probably not because the epoxy will flex
This video felt like the editor couldn’t wait to finish it
I don't get why they wouldn't show the finished product, instead, they show a side angle of the corner while someone's sprinkling the flakes.
The one guy says to do your strokes in a certain direction and then it immediately cuts so he can't explain why.
Boss told him "a 4 minute video, and not one second more!"
@@Patmanduu And they still went a second over:)
@@ben-si3dk I think the teasers are free... you gotta pay for full episodes.
I like the flakes, or rather the idea of them, to hide floor inconsistencies, distract from future scratches and scuffs, and to also add a bit of “flair” or movement- especially considering how big a space is being painted and that it’s a light color. I think the Terrazzo floor look that they’re going for is attractive but while it’s the most common design that these treatments/kits use, there’s a lot of ways one can customize the look to fit personal taste and also help meet or even improve functional needs. You can use enamel additives like sand to improve traction, and that added texture would help improve the look as well as hide imperfections.
Someone made a very good point about dropping a nut or screw and looking for days to find it on a floor with such a busy pattern, which is so accurate it makes me anxious just thinking about it. So it’s important to remember what you’ll be doing in the space when choosing the base color and any design elements. You could get around this particular problem by installing a bright or very dark base color. And FYI- you only need flakes to be a few shades off from the base in order to break up the look or get the impression of texture/movement. So don’t be afraid to create some visual impact/interest in your garage/workspace. The impact will obviously be dampened once there’s cars, equipment and other furnishings added in. It will actually be helpful and more safe since it can make it more obvious to see an object in your path, a puddle, or something else that’s out of place.
And don’t let resale fears stop you bc potential buyers down the road won’t care about the color of the garage floor- they will simply appreciate that the treatment exists in the first place and assess it on its utility and upkeep. So go ahead and put in a red, blue or burnt orange floor bc it matches your branding or complements the color of your car. Throw in some clouds of glitter to match your personality. Put a big Logo of your business or favorite sports team in the middle, delineate work/caution areas by adding lines or colors changes. Just make sure the material of the decal or appliqué is compliant with type of flooring you are adding. Then a top coat will cement the look.
There are other options like different sizes, shapes, colors and finishes of whatever flake/ product is applied at the end. Example: different flake spacing, more uniform shapes, monochromatic colors, metallic shine... Consider painting patterns with another color enamel, or color blocking to delineate work spaces, you could have one color flake in an area but more mixed in to it in others. Make the floor matte or add custom appliqués... use an entirely different material and process than what everyone else does and always has done...
Just don’t be afraid to create something that’s more pleasing to the/your eye, that will help you make the best use of the space and enhance your experience while in it. Spend a few extra dollars on a certain type or color flake, order a custom monogram or additive to get a certain finish.
Sometimes it takes a little more research, viewing other videos, and knowing there’s other materials available than what comes in a typical, pre made kit. You put so much work into the preparation that the outcome and final look should be one that represents your hard work and helps make smart use of the space. Don’t be afraid to be creative, think a little harder, and make a unique and personalized finished product that best meets your needs, takes into consideration how you will use and move in the space, and makes you proud and happy to be there- especially since with a weekend of work you could end up staring at the results for 20 years.
thank you AI generated commentary
Dang girl
Nothing like having an expert explain things
For my own personal tastes, I would have fixed the cracks as part of the prep.
If the slab is cracking it's going to continue to do so unless you fix the footings, which is not a simple task.
Best thing to do in this case would be to put a grinder to it and make some expansion joints, then seat up the cracks. that way the slab can continue to expand and shrink without damaging itself.
Absolutely, these cracks should have been chased out with a hand grinder and wheel segment. Then filled in with fast cure epoxy or at least decent patching material. You can read more about this at theconcretemakeover.com/garage-floor-epoxy-company-new-jersey/
hoopfan71 caulking does wonders before first coat
Epoxy strengthens the concrete and floor. Patch the cracks first and the repair will last a long time. By the time they return the floor will need to ne coated again. Mine lasted 20 years before needing a redo.
hoppfan agree... those color flakes look tacky
I've done several epoxy commercial floors including my own, and we always chemically clean then acid wash and power wash, use a commercial epoxy that is resistant to all chemicals including battery acid.
I heard this epoxy stuff peels and lifts off the floor. How long does it usually last before peeling?
Your doing it WRONG!
"So no concerns with washing this plutonium 239 into the driveway?"
Nope this is an environmentally friendly space modulator so your floor is the radioactive part and it just washes away cleanly.. LOLz
@@thebasement7620 Also glows in the dark, no need for lighting.
hahahahahaa
Lmao... hexavalent chromium 6
Only if the Libyans show up 😏
"How does that look Brian?"
"I think that looks really good."
"That looks like a good job."
* Classy country outro *
Try using Delta Polymers industrial strength Polycoat with some sand in between the 2 coats. It will give the floor some grip and then top it off with Polythane 1005. You will not have to worry about your garage floor for the next 20 years.
WRONG!
@@billric1945 WHY!
That was so nice of Alexi Lalas to help them epoxy the floor.
I like how they used the flakes of the homeowner's crushed skull to decorate the second coat of epoxy. What a great touch!
It's best to apply flakes to refusal. Complete coverage let it dry overnight. Scrapes excess and apply clear coat covers all imperfections and looks the best.
Great all the way till the end. You barely let us see the finished product!
They never do
That's right. Never saw how the cracked areas looked.
Exactly what I was thinking. Never got to see the cracked areas.
If you don't like flakes and want more grip and texture you can sprinkle sand as you paint
thanks, that's complicated enough to get someone hired to do this or look for alternatives
Why didn't you fill in the cracks and the rock pops? Self leveling caulk would have made it look so much nicer. Those cracks are just gonna get bigger over time.
If you trowel the epoxy on it will fill most cracks and voids. Looks much nicer in my opinion!
Non Skid paint for garage floors is the trick, like many of you stated fill the cracks fist. larger cracks might need to be filled 2 or 3 times.
The cracks should have been opened a little and then filled. Myself I prefer to use a scarifier. Acid can be inconsistent and cause blotchy spots that will always stick out no matter how many coats are applied, the only way would be a full broadcast of color flakes. I also offer any color in a color paint fan deck, I also offer individual color flake options. Many others offer the same. When you have your garage done get what base color and flake color you want not what the installer suggests.
Looks good. I've decided to diamond grind, degrease and then acid wash my garage/basement before I epoxy coat it.
N.EkamaDkskdne ad wmaxxmamca
Sjqm!.wmata
Skx
aska.sammxmask
@@sdsdcaroldfmaxwell2037 kcewff'eehbd? hdjhheyedaaxvvfs, shjjshjshhg hsgh kahgwddal! kskayq.
Nothing was said about the cracks in the floor other than obscuring them with flakes. Why not fix cracks?
Use an elastomeric acrylic caulk and fill the cracks. Let it fully cure then apply the epoxy. You will have much better results.
Everyone seems happy.
It's an easy and must do project. Now, with that said, you have to be careful of how wet it gets or hope you have great balance.
thumbs down for not showing the final look of the floor :(
It’s grey with spackle.
Thumbs down for you and your crybaby comment
You know what else fixes those imperfections - filling and patching the concrete.
The acid is..citric acid like in citric fruits. Ive done this a few times. I recommend you let it dry fully for 24 hrs and then use the epoxy
I really wish epoxy manufacturers would recommend diamond grinding or shotblasting instead of acid etching. The acid that you used runs down into the cracks, joints and pores of the concrete. That will reactivate in the future with moisture in the concrete and begin to deteriorate the coating. When it reactivates, and it will, it will start to blister the coatings and the failure begins. Diamond grinding or shotblasting is the way to go. The other huge advantage is, you grind the concrete and install epoxy immediately thereafter. You do not need to wait for the concrete to dry. I guess I should be thankful, my career is based on replacing floors installed like this. I am just trying to educate the public on the reality of installing epoxy flooring. If you install it yourself for half price and need to do it again in two years, did it really save any money?
I can't believe a show like this didn't grind or shotblast ..WOW ..
Thank you, your right 100 per cent. What they did you will have to come back and diamond grind the mess they made with their procedure.
Have done that commercially. We add grit into the second coat for better traction.
so why not a primer before the apoxy to help with the floor cracking over time? Also, why would you not use a sealent after? I mean if you want a apoxy floor to last you a year go this route.
You wan sprinkles? Hell yeah I wan sprinkles!
Noooo not color flakes! Now how will you find that little screw you dropped?
magnets don't pick up color flakes and work amazingly well picking up screws. No garage should be without a set of magnetic pickup tools.
you need to be able to see it first lol
lmao!
Ummm sweeping the floor always helped me.
This is a pretty good informational video.... I've always wondered how to do an epoxy floor in a garage...
The guy seemed pretty thorough...
I think I would have filled in the cracks first however....
I'm genuinely shocked that they didn't fix the cracks, but it makes you wonder if you really should. They will always reemerge eventually. Plus, spreading the flakes hides all those imperfections.
Yea reading the labels of the various components makes you quit unsure about rinsing it off into the environment.. I mean there are numerous personal health warnings and advised precautions, yet its ok to wash it into the earth and waters
Out of the box idea- if I dump bucket of self leveling epoxy in the middle and put on a few fans would that work as well?
For the guys complaining about not putting clear coat ,it doesn't matter, as long as you do 2 coats of epoxy it will be fine, clear coat just makes it a lot shinier but it doesn't really offers that much protection and is totally optional, my concern here is, what happened to the big cracks in the concrete that weren't repair before the epoxy application. That's a big NO NO, and you guys are worrying about the clear coat? Also the degreaser IT DOES AFFECT THE DRIVEWAY... if it is a really greasy garage floor all that would go onto the driveway leaving grease marks all over so it needs to be sprayed or wash right away and thoroughly, then it won't affect the driveway, believe me it was the only and first mistake I did on my first job doing this. I was doing this type of work for the last 3 years until I moved onto bigger things, clear coat was always optional and charged extra, mostly you need it in Canada where for example they apply salt on the roads on winter time and that salt is so strong that not only makes your car rusty but also when it stays on your car's tires and you drive it into your garage it will eat away the epoxy eventually,2 or 3 years, so having clear coat will help a bit with that and makes it last longer.
Didier Gonz when you are rinsing off your garage and pushing that degreaser towards the driveway. Have your driveway be already wet so that the degreaser doesn't soak into driveway. Keep rinsing and pushing it all towards the street or gutter.
This is incorrect
I just go over the concrete floor with a broom and then mop the concrete floor twice, first time with Zep concrete cleaner, next time with just warm water. I might do it 3 times (twice with the ZEP concrete cleaner added and last time with just warm water) if the floors were really messy but it's not been necessary so far as the first time gets pretty much everything as evidence by how clean the water is when I put my mop in it after doing the floor again the last time.
My clear coat turned yellow making my bluegray floor ugly green. Next time no clear...
The sun tends to turn clear epoxy yellow in many brands
should add skid-resistant additive floor wil be very slippery if wet
you would have thought they would have fill the cracks first
those cracks were put in when the concrete was laid and are necessary for any garage as concrete will crack on its own and can cause uneven ground if these pre-cracks were not done.
Iron, these are not control cracks that were put in.
You're Welcome!
It's obvious the owner is an idiot to not have the concert crack first taken care...dumbass🖕🏼🖕🏼🖕🏼🖕🏼
Many times, those cracks are because the base wasn't prepared well. Nothing will get rid of them if the floors heave during winter months. They simple open, and close during expansion and contraction You would have to remove the floor, rebase it, and then pour new. But an idiot/dumbass commenting wouldn't know that.
IRONTOSS those are,not expansion joints, those run straight. What we all saw was a cracked slab that should have been repaired. Literally 10 minutes work it would have been better.
AWESOME, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. .OH,AND DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE CLEARCOAT I KNOW THIS WAS DONE IN THE ALLOTED TIME FRAME...THANKS.
+Eloy Garcia try looking into polyurea floor coatings, much better than epoxy. if you really want good adhesiveness, grind the floor, never acid etch.
The acid method is one way of doing it, but it is a cheap method. It has a higher probability of adhesive failure because your only adhering to the top coat of the concrete. For the best chance of long term success you need to get rid of the top coat and get to the bones of it as we refer to it. Then the epoxy or preferrably polyurea can bond property. The old saying goes well here though you get what you pay for. Grinding is more expensive yes, and you may need a pro to do it, but the chances of a peeling failed floor are significantly diminished.
Your screwed if you follow what they did, TOTALLY WRONG!
A couple of comments: 1) Why weren't the cracks filled before painting? 2) A European handyman used epoxy paint on the cinderblock walls of my mother's basement. A few months later the white started to turn yellow in some parts. Why did that happen?
I may not know but i think in first step all the cracks and small holes should be fixed.
Technically, unless you’re rinsing this into dirt or grass anything not storm water or snow melt is an illicit discharge into the MS4. Doesn’t matter if it’s biodegradable, the dirt rinsing is not.
So acid etching is good enough you dont gotta sand the floor down?
What about the clear on top after the flakes?
good video, but why not caulk or fill up those cracks before scaling it up with the epoxy ?
How do you address the cracks before coating? The cracks are the MAIN reason I want to epoxy coat my garage floor.
get you some self leveling concrete tubes from big box store and follow instructions
Bernie Hunt use a compatable tube of caulking and a drywall taping knife. squeeze it flat on the surface as you would do with drywall mud before any coats go down
Mark Wright answer is best but add some fine dust free sand into fast set epoxy so it will fill cracks better especially if they are wide.
Texas Caulking...for wide open spaces!
The best solution for cracks is a product called Sikaflex self leveling caulk. It’s made to move. Epoxy will get hard and just crack again, and regular caulk is definitely not the way to do it. Put in the sikaflex, let it sit for 10 minutes, then spread a light layer of sand on the crack you filled. The sand will soak in a bit so you’ll need to add more to some spots. In the end the fix will be much less noticeable.
You will have to put backer rod or some way to stop the sika from running down deep, as the caulk is runny. I used cotton cord for some spots that were very narrow and back rod didn’t fit.
Mechanical floor prep is far superior than acid washing. Diamond grinding is how the pro's do floor prep. Plus, they forgot to neutralize the floor after acid washing. They didn't address the cracks or divots and the product they used is a water based product with only about 50% solids epoxy content. Hot tires usually always lift these big box store water based epoxy kits. And usually within a year.
Do it right, do it once. have a professional garage flooring company install your garage floor.
Don’t acid etch. The only way to properly prepare a garage floor to accept epoxy and form a proper bond is to diamond grind the floor (shot blasting also works). I guarantee that this floor looks terrible now and is peeling up.
Jon Young I etched my floor at least three times, then hired what I thought were pros to install. They etched again, put the floor down and now there is hardly anything left. All I can say is you are correct.
They did not mention to add strip of tape across where the door opens so you can get a perfect straight edge.
How you not gonna fix them cracks?
if you have an epoxied garage floor that is pealing how do you fix it?
The guy next to our warehouse did this once at a speed about 3 to 4 times faster.
He did it on a hover board.
People those cracks your complaining about are called "control joints" and are intentional and are designed to crack in a straight line when the concrete was poured, concrete will crack and break into uneven pavement and at different locations if these control joints are not used, which is why you will see a "+" crack in a garage floor but will not have uneven pavement.
If you had a 5 gal bucket and added the galling of acid and the rest water would of made this a lot easier to complete.
This video was amazing....I feel like I can do this by myself. Thx guys.
They make every thing look so Easy Peasy never do things go so smoothly when your Wife decides she knows more then the Pros
I had painted my floor with an acrylic waterbase paint, then there was some scrath here and there on top, can i touch up and paint over this existing floor paint with and epoxy paint ( that epoxy paint with hardener one) without removing the waterbase floor paint?
Fix the cracks first!
The very first step is making sure your concrete floor is dry enough to accept epoxy. If you have a wet slab, epoxy will bubble and flake off no matter what you do.
Tape a 1'x1' sheet of plastic over the slab and leave it for a week during a wet period of the year. If you have moisture under the plastic, fix your water egress issue first. Don't epoxy the floor till then.
I just bought a brand new home and the builder got different paint all over the garage floor. Do I need to remove those various paints marks before I do this. If so how do I remove paint marks? Will I need to decrease and acid wash?
We have an older home with wood framing on the slab and sheetrock down to the floor, so cleaning the floor with a lot of water that may flow toward living space is not possible. Should we forget trying to epoxy?
The only thing is you never ever want to acid etch your floor you want to use diamond sanding by basically putting diamond wheels underneath a floor buffer and then sanding it down that way with diamond that's the right way to do it not buy acid etching because that won't get everything and nothing will stick especially during hot weather
Is epoxy good for living room?
What happened to the cracks in the floor 🤔
May I know what degrease, the acid, and Epoxy name and where to get them all at one stop?
You do have to worry about the Illudium Q-36 though.
Remember to put clear coat once you put the flakes in, especially if you live somewhere where it's hot.
Grind the concrete first, NO WATER!
Nice people. Not sure if Assad was off camera but where were the EPA hazadarous-materials respirators to filter the acid fumes or at least powerful floor fans to disperse them.
Reminds me of when I got my restricted pesticide license in 1974. True or False 10 questions, grade-your-own test. 1- Fish are tough critters. Pesticides don't bother them none. True or False?
Do the color flakes help to create a more anti-slip surface? If so, is it enough on its own or should additional anti-slip be added?
If you had listened in the video it's just for looks
@@kobirelf97 Oooooooooooooooohh…
I would of tinted the garage color and left out those flakes.. threw some sand for grip and came back and added another coat for good measures.
Simple acid etching typically isn’t enough to guarantee a strong bond to the concrete. These guys should have diamond ground the floor and filled any cracks before laying down the epoxy.
Hmm...I thought shotblasting and grinding to a Concrete surface profile level 3 was the best for adhesion? ICRI
I did not know it was this simple. Thank you!
Wax on wax off looks simple too, wait til you start doing it.
Do not do what this video shows. Its WRONG!
what does the air temperature have to be?
I'm a epoxy contractor and we don't acid etch, is not good abrasion between the concrete and the epoxy and definitely will peel. Grind the floor, ALWAYS.
Only do this if you're looking to flip a home to make it look nice on the surface. Never do on your own home you plan to live in as it will start to peel up and be a miserable mess to deal with.
I cant do the flakes, my grandmother did the kitchen and hall this way in 1975 so it seems dated to me
So what do you do if your floor was sealed?
It would be nice if they explained that..
They forgot the most important step, renting a grinding machine to remove the smooth surface and create a texture for the epoxy to bond to , without this the epoxy will peel over the next 2 or 3 years. Usually this old house is spot on, but not this time.
I like leaving my garage floor unfinished... so the oil I spill doing oil changes can just seep right on through.
While wouldn't someone fill in the cracks 1st?
If I did a floor and added glitter to stick and didn’t can I add a clear epoxy on top to hold the glitter/specks down? If I roll if it will stick like a lint roller I wonder if I can spray it
got one for u garage floor needs replaced but it has under storage how to fix
what about auto grease from cars, how do you remove that
So what if there is a sealer on there
This Old House normally has top tier pro's but this install is not good at all.
Should have ground or shot blasted concrete after degrease.
Filled and sanded cracks.
Calked edges for clean corners.
Used a better product that Quickrete Epoxy
Maybe a clear coat finish or discussion about finishing options.
How long did the concert dry before the epoxy was applied???
Will this stop moles digging under the garage>?
So no primer 1st? I watched a different video and they said u had to sand the floor then clean it then prime then epoxy is this not true? Or can i do it just like this video
Everywhere I read and the videos I view it seems overwhelming better to grind the floor rather than etch with acid. They didn't even mention that option in this video. Why?
Because this video is a DIY solution. Grinding will properly the concrete for epoxy coatings. It provides for better adhesion. Also, the big box home improvement epoxy kits do not have the high solids epoxy content and their water based kits. These will usually always fail within a year. Especially under the hot tires.
Carey Vandenberg I did this procedure 19 yrs ago. With the 2 part big box material. Just the acid wash. I got spots at the locations where the front tires usually are that are wearing thin but that is all. I live in the hot part of AZ. So no road salt or ash. Your mileage may vary.
20 years on mine. Acid etched first then two coats. I used Rustoleums Epoxy Floor Kit. Cost was $100
I think it would take too long, and go through so many grinding wheels.
Trevor Phillips
You should use diamond wheels. Cheap for a grinder but expensive for big rental grinders.
Would you recommend a clear coat or sealer over the top of the flakes at all? Looks VERY nice btw.
+DirTyOhGee Yes holds the chips down
I know Epoxy floors are seriously slippery and dangerous when wet, do you happen to know how effective the non-slip coating is? and is it clear.
I'm going to pretend there isn't leaves sticking to your paint at 2:32 haha
I need product that will seal and act as barrier between concrete and galvanized steel ? I want to acid treat the concrete prior to putting down epoxy flooring. My building is steel and the perimeter base is galvanized steel and of course we don't want the acid on the steel. I was thinking of this product ( DAP 3 Self Leveling Concrete 9-oz Gray Paintable Advanced Sealant Caulk ) .I would appreciate and suggestions . Thanks
after you mix the apoxy, can you close it back up and use it later, or does it have to be used all at once?
+Neil Campos Mixing the two part epoxy starts a chemical reaction that can not be stopped. They said the pot life for this product is 2-2.5 hours, not sure if that includes the 30 minute set up time.
Another contractor claims that rough etching - as with a floor buffer and diamond attachments that actually etch the concrete is superior to acid etching. Can anyone comment on that? True, false, or somewhere in between.
Why just a close up of the final look?
I wanted to see if the speckles got even distribution over the entire floor.