Update: Last summer it quit working, turns out the factory rubber fuel line had pinched shut where it runs through the frame. After correcting the issue it has not had another problem. The pinched line was something I did not notice in this video but it is probably the reason the mechanical pumps were having issues. Also I do not think this regulator works the way I though it did and it is probably not doing anything.
@@feodorjohnson Because I chose to run a return there is no where I can put this regulator where it will work. In an update video I talked about that but the system still builds 1.5psi at the carb
@@PracticallyStock I couldn't find it under the about tab feodorjohnson@gmail.com and we utilize the original metal fuel line replaced all other lines like you said the old hose had a kink and was collapsing but we put the T directly to the carb and ran the return from that I got the mower free from a customer of mine already had new electronic pumps laying around she runs perfect now
Thank You! Been jacking around with my 1997 Huskee tractor w/Kohler MV20 for a couple years now. Replaced the fuel pump and carb a couple times, would work for a year then back to the same old problems. I chalked it up to crappy Chinese carbs but after watching this and installing this electric fuel pump setup (with a carb that I though needed to be replaced again)...Runs like a Champ! Good stuff!
This is one of the best conversion videos I've see so far. Currently my dad's tractor is gravity feed which is really iffy and an electric pump would keep the fuel flow consistent for him.
Thanks for the comment and hope the video helped, so far the john deere hasn't had a problem since. If it's gravity fed and having problems it sounds like something may be clogged
I had a similar issue and solved it by simply mounting the gas tank on top of the hood and just let gravity do its thing. No more fuel pumps to have to worry about.
That would be the most ideal but didn't want to mess with the cooling shroud since I thought it was cool. Problem ended up being the rubber fuel line collapsed
You don't need a by pass line. Put on a low pressure inline fuel pump that has a calibrated shut off pressure ($8.00 online). That simple. The needle and seat in the carburetor can hold the pressure just fine.
I didn't see anything like that at the time but good suggestion. That might work if it is low enough flow, I wouldn't want it constantly kicking on for just a second then shutting off. Not that it was a problem before but a return helps with vapor locking
Per the pinned comment, I used the wrong type regulator. I originally thought I could use that regulator to restrict the return to increase pressure in the supply line. Technically I still did this because the outlet of the return is the highest point of the fuel system which means the pressure at the carb equals the pressure to lift the fuel the vertical distance between the carb and return outlet
I drilled a hole in the top of the tank and threaded a barb fitting into it. I then used JB weld original (the kwik weld won't hold up) to seal and further secure it. Read the pinned comment and replies for more info. Basically don't need the regulator, either put the return higher than the carb or find a way to somewhat restrict the return line to build a little pressure
Dream Team: I have a 21.5 hp. Briggs & Stratton on a il1000 craftsman mower. I agree the vacuum operated fuel pump is crapolla. Does not work all the time. Does not last long! I bought a much smaller than your electric pump. I was wondering if you think a pneumatic airline flow regulator would work the same as the gas line regulator. I have a few in my junk drawer. After reading this comments section I am undecided to put it between the carb and pump or in the over flow line like yours. Is yours still working OK as it is? Ones the regulator is set do you have to mess around with it or does it stay constant.Hope you see this. Hope you reply. If anyone else has any idea I would appreciate a reply. Thanks! John
I don't know if those regulators can handle gasoline or not, if they are just for air pressure I wouldn't use one because I would be afraid of the seals failing. The placement of the regulator seems to work either way but if you want a good visual, imagine you have 2 water hoses T'ed at the faucet. If you put your thumb over 1 hose to try and spray farther will it work or will the restriction of your hand just force more water out of the second hose? (open return hard to build pressure). But if you have a restriction in the second hose (regulator) since both hoses are restricted there will be a pressure increase. (regulator in return). All I know is this is how high pressure fuel injection system maintain pressure so I believe it is correct here as well. Only modifications to my design: replaced factory rubber line which pinched and caused fuel starvation, and trimmed bracket holding fuel hose so I can get the air filter off. Other than that no problems with fuel or reliability. Regulator when in the return line restricts flow until the set PSI is reached and then will bleed pressure to the tank to prevent over pressure. I'm just happy since I didn't have to rebuild a mechanical fuel pump again this spring.
@@garagekeys I am having carb problems now. I decided it was a dirty Crab. Mean while I decided to rerun the fuel line so it is a more level transition to the fuel pump. I am running it without the regulator and it was running OK till now. I also replaced the fuel line with new. Lowe's has a 20' roll of nice flexible gas line for only $7.00. AutoZone wanted $20.00 for 6 feet. I am waiting for Parts to finish the Carb. New fuel line, pump is done. I'm doing needed maintenance while waiting. Grass in Florida grows 4" a day. :O)
In the card that pops up at the top of the video I talk about that issue, I thought the regulator worked differently that it actually does. I also found that because the return outlet is above the carb it feeds 1.5 psi to the carb which is plenty
Can you give us a part# for the regulator? I recently installed a electronic fuel pump on my kohler k532 after the mechanical one bit the dust. It's working fine due to the needle in the carb doing it's job but I don't want to risk wearing it out to quickly if I can.
Don't know what the part number is but it was just a generic one from advanced auto. Looking back on it I have to admit I am not sure that regulator works the way I though it did and it may not be right for this application. If I had to do it again I think I would just forget the regulator since this is not by any means a performance application, I think the height difference and added length of hose of the return would provide enough resistance to keep the bowl filled. hasn't happened yet but make sure the return is attached good so gas doesn't get dumped all over the yard since the engine would probably keep running
@@PracticallyStock I ended up finding one on Amazon. I'm planning on using it a little differently than you. I grabbed a 2-4 psi pump and wanted to drop the psi down to 1psi so I will hook it up in between the fuel pump and carb.
Intriguing setup. Don't understand why the regulator was not situated between the pump and the carb thus not needing the bypass. A light bulb doesn't know how dark it is. A fuel pump just pumps. I can perceive it could be problematic if the line could somehow become pressurized higher than its own design limit.
I wanted it to have a return since the little kohler moves very little gas compared to a tradition car engine and I was afraid that the pump would have heat or over pressure issues from the lack of flow. I will concede the system probably makes zero pressure because I don't think the regulator works the way I though it did. When I have time I will look at it and maybe make an update video on what I find.
Just out of curiosity wouldn't you want the regulator between the carb and the pump and not the pump and the tank? Because if you think about it where you have the regulator the carb is getting the whole 28 gph and the tank is only getting 1psi.. I could be wrong but if i were you i would check it out..
If the carb was getting the full flow I think it would drown the poor engine, it doesn’t seem to have a problem idling for an extended period of time. The way i understand it: the regulator allows fuel to pass through it once the desired pressure is met. So once the pressure reaches X psi then the regulator allows Y amount of gas to flow back to the tank to maintain that X amount of pressure since the pump is always moving a constant volume of fuel. If the return was open and the regulator was between the pump and carb all the extra volume and pressure would be directed to the return since there would be nothing to control the flow and thus there would be little pressure at the carb regardless of the regulator setting (trying to increase pressure at the carb would only decrease flow to the carb and increase flow through the return). With the regulator in the return there is no fully open path for the fuel to pass through and thus allows the regulator to pressurize and control fuel pressure in the 3 mentioned lines. My c10 that’s on the channel has a similar setup with the Vortec fuel injection. Also in the vid I show the return with the pump on and there is a stead flow of gas so the engine is not getting the full flow of the pump if that makes sense. I could make a vid where I try different setups and monitor the pressure if that would help. Thanks for the comment
Regulator put aft pump regulates pressure aft the pump. Anything beyond its set pressure in the line will open up its valve and back to the the tank. My thought was, I wonder if you could tee into the fuel inlet hose toward the tank side rather than pump inlet instead of drilling into the tank.
I recently had to work on the Deere (factory fuel line pinched and wouldn't flow gas) and I was thinking about something similar. I am learning all this stuff as I go, but I think it would work but I don't know how well. I think there would be potential for air to get trapped in the pump/fuel line since there would be no where but the carb for it to escape to. I think with it constantly cycling the fuel through the T there could be the potential for the fuel to get hot which might also strain the pump. At least with a actual return there is a way for the air to easily leave the system and with the gas cycling through the tank it shouldn't get hot. I really don't know how well it would work but I would be curious to know if you try it.
I don't think my Troy Bilt mower has a fuel pump. Looks like gravity feed to carb. When fuel tank level drops to, say, 1/4 tank, it acts like it's having fuel starvation. Should I add fuel pump w regulator?
From what I have seen the regulator should be after the tee and before the carb. The regulator would only allow set x-psi to pass through it while the excess is diverted through the tee back to the tank. The return (Tee to tank) should be slightly smaller so that all the fuel don't run back. If your tractor is not experiencing flooding with this setup it is because the needle in the carb is working well. I am looking at this same setup for my carbed -ATV to replace the factory vacuum pump.
That's not correct, this regulator does nothing because it does not work the way I thought it did but even if I used this regulator as you described, it would also not do anything because there has to be something to meter the flow through the return in order to build pressure. In this case, the only restriction that is allowing for pressure to the carb is the difference in height between the outlet of the return and the carb (the carb is lower)
Not sure what people’s problems are I have a Kohler Magnum 18 use it everyday never had a problem with its macanical fuel pump it is a 1985 with original pump
I took both of mine apart and don't understand either, they are really simple. I'm guessing it may have to do with gas quality and something that builds up on the valves and keeps them from sealing. Regardless I was tired of messing with it. It's put up for the winter but so far has had no issues.
That is not how a dead head regulator works. You are still getting X PSI to the carburetor so if the pressure to high from the pump, still going to over power the seat in the bowl and flood the engine. A lot of work and money for nothing on the regulator.
In the pinned comment I said I found out that regulator does not work the way I thought it did, and no it's not "overpowering" the float. The return is essentially open since it's the wrong regulator so there is no way it can build pressure and you would think I would notice after a few summers of running it if it was flooding out. The pressure to the carb is the result of the flow and height difference between the T and the carb (about 1/2psi if I remember right) which is not much but enough to keep the carb fed. The regulator is not working (felt repeating that was necessary) so it is likely going to end up on another project
I was mad and wanted it fixed that day so I used what I could find nearby. I kinda like having the return and regulator because I am not sure where you would get a fuel pump that would have a very low flow rate to accommodate the small rate at which the engine uses fuel (when compared to car). I would recommend the extra cost of the return and regulator since it seems to make it easier to control fuel pressure and I imagine it's easier on the pump than dead heading it into the carb. I need to do a follow up video since part of the problem with the old pump (which was still weak in my opinion) was that where the factory rubber fuel line goes through a hole in the frame the rubber fuel line collapsed and pinched itself. I think this made it harder for the OE pump to prime and then it got to the point where the electric pump couldn't pull fuel through it. Other than that there has been no issues with the system
I would recommend using the pulse off the dip stick. Much easier and less things to go wrong. Doublewide 6 has a video. ruclips.net/video/apKNP_be1os/видео.html
Lol, you're good. I am also a bit of an idiot because that regulator isn't regulating because it is the wrong kind to be used that way. The only thing regulating the pressure is just the resistance from the difference in height between the carb and where the return goes into the tank. (The return outlet is higher than the carb so the gas in the return line above the carb creates a little pressure at the carb)
Over 400 hours no issues yet, Fuel pump is still good as well. Neighbor had a later johndeere with a brigs and with 14 hours on it I had to go work on it a half dozen times. Thing was a pile, would not cold start with choke on and then when running drank gas like nothing else. Also as far as I know Kohler doesn't use plastic parts like Briggs. Regardless this Kohler seems happy.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Update: Last summer it quit working, turns out the factory rubber fuel line had pinched shut where it runs through the frame. After correcting the issue it has not had another problem. The pinched line was something I did not notice in this video but it is probably the reason the mechanical pumps were having issues.
Also I do not think this regulator works the way I though it did and it is probably not doing anything.
That's because you were supposed to run the regulator directly after the pump
@@feodorjohnson Because I chose to run a return there is no where I can put this regulator where it will work. In an update video I talked about that but the system still builds 1.5psi at the carb
@@PracticallyStock I just did the same setup I can send you pics tomorrow
@@feodorjohnson Ok, use the email in the about tab on the channel page. How did you restrict the return line?
@@PracticallyStock I couldn't find it under the about tab feodorjohnson@gmail.com and we utilize the original metal fuel line replaced all other lines like you said the old hose had a kink and was collapsing but we put the T directly to the carb and ran the return from that I got the mower free from a customer of mine already had new electronic pumps laying around she runs perfect now
Thank You! Been jacking around with my 1997 Huskee tractor w/Kohler MV20 for a couple years now. Replaced the fuel pump and carb a couple times, would work for a year then back to the same old problems. I chalked it up to crappy Chinese carbs but after watching this and installing this electric fuel pump setup (with a carb that I though needed to be replaced again)...Runs like a Champ! Good stuff!
This is one of the best conversion videos I've see so far. Currently my dad's tractor is gravity feed which is really iffy and an electric pump would keep the fuel flow consistent for him.
Thanks for the comment and hope the video helped, so far the john deere hasn't had a problem since. If it's gravity fed and having problems it sounds like something may be clogged
If you do this with a gravity fed carb, you'll definitely need a pressure regulator 👍
I had a similar issue and solved it by simply mounting the gas tank on top of the hood and just let gravity do its thing. No more fuel pumps to have to worry about.
That would be the most ideal but didn't want to mess with the cooling shroud since I thought it was cool. Problem ended up being the rubber fuel line collapsed
You don't need a by pass line. Put on a low pressure inline fuel pump that has a calibrated shut off pressure ($8.00 online). That simple. The needle and seat in the carburetor can hold the pressure just fine.
I didn't see anything like that at the time but good suggestion. That might work if it is low enough flow, I wouldn't want it constantly kicking on for just a second then shutting off. Not that it was a problem before but a return helps with vapor locking
You beat to it,exactly what I was thinking
You forgot to mention the fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb. That also could be a problem.
You’re regulating only the return line pressure? The way you have it plumbed it seems that would be the case.
Per the pinned comment, I used the wrong type regulator. I originally thought I could use that regulator to restrict the return to increase pressure in the supply line. Technically I still did this because the outlet of the return is the highest point of the fuel system which means the pressure at the carb equals the pressure to lift the fuel the vertical distance between the carb and return outlet
Where does the return line go. back int the tank? where?
I drilled a hole in the top of the tank and threaded a barb fitting into it. I then used JB weld original (the kwik weld won't hold up) to seal and further secure it. Read the pinned comment and replies for more info. Basically don't need the regulator, either put the return higher than the carb or find a way to somewhat restrict the return line to build a little pressure
Dream Team: I have a 21.5 hp. Briggs & Stratton on a il1000 craftsman mower. I agree the vacuum operated fuel pump is crapolla. Does not work all the time. Does not last long! I bought a much smaller than your electric pump. I was wondering if you think a pneumatic airline flow regulator would work the same as the gas line regulator. I have a few in my junk drawer. After reading this comments section I am undecided to put it between the carb and pump or in the over flow line like yours. Is yours still working OK as it is? Ones the regulator is set do you have to mess around with it or does it stay constant.Hope you see this. Hope you reply. If anyone else has any idea I would appreciate a reply. Thanks! John
I don't know if those regulators can handle gasoline or not, if they are just for air pressure I wouldn't use one because I would be afraid of the seals failing. The placement of the regulator seems to work either way but if you want a good visual, imagine you have 2 water hoses T'ed at the faucet. If you put your thumb over 1 hose to try and spray farther will it work or will the restriction of your hand just force more water out of the second hose? (open return hard to build pressure). But if you have a restriction in the second hose (regulator) since both hoses are restricted there will be a pressure increase. (regulator in return). All I know is this is how high pressure fuel injection system maintain pressure so I believe it is correct here as well. Only modifications to my design: replaced factory rubber line which pinched and caused fuel starvation, and trimmed bracket holding fuel hose so I can get the air filter off. Other than that no problems with fuel or reliability. Regulator when in the return line restricts flow until the set PSI is reached and then will bleed pressure to the tank to prevent over pressure. I'm just happy since I didn't have to rebuild a mechanical fuel pump again this spring.
DreamTeamProduc
I suppose you can use a brass needle valve in place of that regulator, the needle valve are pretty cheap off eBay
@@garagekeys I am having carb problems now. I decided it was a dirty Crab. Mean while I decided to rerun the fuel line so it is a more level transition to the fuel pump.
I am running it without the regulator and it was running OK till now. I also replaced the fuel line with new. Lowe's has a 20' roll of nice flexible gas line for only $7.00.
AutoZone wanted $20.00 for 6 feet.
I am waiting for Parts to finish the Carb. New fuel line, pump is done. I'm doing needed maintenance while waiting.
Grass in Florida grows 4" a day. :O)
The regulator is supposed to be inline after the pump. Not a return
In the card that pops up at the top of the video I talk about that issue, I thought the regulator worked differently that it actually does. I also found that because the return outlet is above the carb it feeds 1.5 psi to the carb which is plenty
Can you give us a part# for the regulator? I recently installed a electronic fuel pump on my kohler k532 after the mechanical one bit the dust. It's working fine due to the needle in the carb doing it's job but I don't want to risk wearing it out to quickly if I can.
Don't know what the part number is but it was just a generic one from advanced auto. Looking back on it I have to admit I am not sure that regulator works the way I though it did and it may not be right for this application. If I had to do it again I think I would just forget the regulator since this is not by any means a performance application, I think the height difference and added length of hose of the return would provide enough resistance to keep the bowl filled. hasn't happened yet but make sure the return is attached good
so gas doesn't get dumped all over the yard since the engine would probably keep running
@@PracticallyStock I ended up finding one on Amazon. I'm planning on using it a little differently than you. I grabbed a 2-4 psi pump and wanted to drop the psi down to 1psi so I will hook it up in between the fuel pump and carb.
Intriguing setup. Don't understand why the regulator was not situated between the pump and the carb thus not needing the bypass. A light bulb doesn't know how dark it is. A fuel pump just pumps. I can perceive it could be problematic if the line could somehow become pressurized higher than its own design limit.
I wanted it to have a return since the little kohler moves very little gas compared to a tradition car engine and I was afraid that the pump would have heat or over pressure issues from the lack of flow. I will concede the system probably makes zero pressure because I don't think the regulator works the way I though it did. When I have time I will look at it and maybe make an update video on what I find.
Just out of curiosity wouldn't you want the regulator between the carb and the pump and not the pump and the tank? Because if you think about it where you have the regulator the carb is getting the whole 28 gph and the tank is only getting 1psi.. I could be wrong but if i were you i would check it out..
If the carb was getting the full flow I think it would drown the poor engine, it doesn’t seem to have a problem idling for an extended period of time. The way i understand it: the regulator allows fuel to pass through it once the desired pressure is met. So once the pressure reaches X psi then the regulator allows Y amount of gas to flow back to the tank to maintain that X amount of pressure since the pump is always moving a constant volume of fuel. If the return was open and the regulator was between the pump and carb all the extra volume and pressure would be directed to the return since there would be nothing to control the flow and thus there would be little pressure at the carb regardless of the regulator setting (trying to increase pressure at the carb would only decrease flow to the carb and increase flow through the return). With the regulator in the return there is no fully open path for the fuel to pass through and thus allows the regulator to pressurize and control fuel pressure in the 3 mentioned lines. My c10 that’s on the channel has a similar setup with the Vortec fuel injection. Also in the vid I show the return with the pump on and there is a stead flow of gas so the engine is not getting the full flow of the pump if that makes sense. I could make a vid where I try different setups and monitor the pressure if that would help. Thanks for the comment
Regulator put aft pump regulates pressure aft the pump. Anything beyond its set pressure in the line will open up its valve and back to the the tank.
My thought was, I wonder if you could tee into the fuel inlet hose toward the tank side rather than pump inlet instead of drilling into the tank.
I recently had to work on the Deere (factory fuel line pinched and wouldn't flow gas) and I was thinking about something similar. I am learning all this stuff as I go, but I think it would work but I don't know how well. I think there would be potential for air to get trapped in the pump/fuel line since there would be no where but the carb for it to escape to. I think with it constantly cycling the fuel through the T there could be the potential for the fuel to get hot which might also strain the pump. At least with a actual return there is a way for the air to easily leave the system and with the gas cycling through the tank it shouldn't get hot. I really don't know how well it would work but I would be curious to know if you try it.
I don't think my Troy Bilt mower has a fuel pump. Looks like gravity feed to carb. When fuel tank level drops to, say, 1/4 tank, it acts like it's having fuel starvation. Should I add fuel pump w regulator?
From what I have seen the regulator should be after the tee and before the carb. The regulator would only allow set x-psi to pass through it while the excess is diverted through the tee back to the tank. The return (Tee to tank) should be slightly smaller so that all the fuel don't run back. If your tractor is not experiencing flooding with this setup it is because the needle in the carb is working well. I am looking at this same setup for my carbed -ATV to replace the factory vacuum pump.
The return line should be before the regulator.
That's not correct, this regulator does nothing because it does not work the way I thought it did but even if I used this regulator as you described, it would also not do anything because there has to be something to meter the flow through the return in order to build pressure. In this case, the only restriction that is allowing for pressure to the carb is the difference in height between the outlet of the return and the carb (the carb is lower)
I had the same problem, bought oem fuel pump and removed the spacer and it works fine.
Not sure what people’s problems are I have a Kohler Magnum 18 use it everyday never had a problem with its macanical fuel pump it is a 1985 with original pump
I took both of mine apart and don't understand either, they are really simple. I'm guessing it may have to do with gas quality and something that builds up on the valves and keeps them from sealing. Regardless I was tired of messing with it. It's put up for the winter but so far has had no issues.
Well if it ever does go out I’ll put a electronic pump on cause I got one that works laying around
That is not how a dead head regulator works. You are still getting X PSI to the carburetor so if the pressure to high from the pump, still going to over power the seat in the bowl and flood the engine. A lot of work and money for nothing on the regulator.
In the pinned comment I said I found out that regulator does not work the way I thought it did, and no it's not "overpowering" the float. The return is essentially open since it's the wrong regulator so there is no way it can build pressure and you would think I would notice after a few summers of running it if it was flooding out. The pressure to the carb is the result of the flow and height difference between the T and the carb (about 1/2psi if I remember right) which is not much but enough to keep the carb fed. The regulator is not working (felt repeating that was necessary) so it is likely going to end up on another project
So instead of running a fuel pump with so much pressure why not use a low volume 2.5 - 4 psi pump and eliminate the regulator and the extra cost?
I was mad and wanted it fixed that day so I used what I could find nearby. I kinda like having the return and regulator because I am not sure where you would get a fuel pump that would have a very low flow rate to accommodate the small rate at which the engine uses fuel (when compared to car). I would recommend the extra cost of the return and regulator since it seems to make it easier to control fuel pressure and I imagine it's easier on the pump than dead heading it into the carb. I need to do a follow up video since part of the problem with the old pump (which was still weak in my opinion) was that where the factory rubber fuel line goes through a hole in the frame the rubber fuel line collapsed and pinched itself. I think this made it harder for the OE pump to prime and then it got to the point where the electric pump couldn't pull fuel through it. Other than that there has been no issues with the system
The fuel pump he used is rated at 2 - 3.5 PSI.
I would recommend using the pulse off the dip stick. Much easier and less things to go wrong. Doublewide 6 has a video.
ruclips.net/video/apKNP_be1os/видео.html
Why not just go straight to the carb and not have the regulator? Seems like something else that can go wrong.
Guess I should have just kept watching….. I’m an idiot
Lol, you're good. I am also a bit of an idiot because that regulator isn't regulating because it is the wrong kind to be used that way. The only thing regulating the pressure is just the resistance from the difference in height between the carb and where the return goes into the tank. (The return outlet is higher than the carb so the gas in the return line above the carb creates a little pressure at the carb)
I've seen it time and time again, KOHLER ENGINES ARE SHIT!!! More complex then they need to be! Gimme a Briggs any day!
Over 400 hours no issues yet, Fuel pump is still good as well. Neighbor had a later johndeere with a brigs and with 14 hours on it I had to go work on it a half dozen times. Thing was a pile, would not cold start with choke on and then when running drank gas like nothing else. Also as far as I know Kohler doesn't use plastic parts like Briggs. Regardless this Kohler seems happy.
I'm guessing you drive a Ford.