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That's weird, maybe the sensor? Or if it is actually low, maybe the bypass in the pump?

@@PracticallyStock I was think I would replace the sensor first since it's less than 20 bucks, just not sure how hard it is change, I've worked on cars my whole life, but my dad was a master mechanic, so I had no fear, till cancer took him in 2013, I just haven't had the confidence in myself for major jobs since, makes a difference when you can make a phone call, and can have someone walk you through anything, the truck I'm driving was his 1992 gmc k1500 slx heavy half WT 4.3 5 spd ext cab 4x4 with the black on red gmc classic paint, my dad looked for years to find that particular truck, and although he cared nothing for sports, he was super excited that it came from John Elway chevrolet lol Oh and the 1992 truck has 180,000 miles on it lol

I have the 1992 Service Manual for S-10 Models. It's the factory service manual bought through GM number ST-369-92. It has a lot of info in it but the wiring info is marginal, I think there was another book for that

I'm using a 92 305 for test fitting everything. The actual motor will have an early 90's 350 block. The 1986 and newer SBC1 (includes the L31) and the SBC2 LT1 (what the ZFs6-40 came with) can use the same transmission. The 1985 and older engines cannot use the same flywheel due to the different rear main. This video where I put the clutch together shows the different rear main seals ruclips.net/video/oemJP3za1yI/видео.html

No, it had a dead spot in the throttle where the car ran really bad but it would always run normal if I kept the throttle below or past that problematic point. The issue was the TPS had a bad spot where it was telling the computer the TBI was at 0% throttle when it was really about 15%. That tricked the computer into cutting back fuel and making the engine lean and miss

@@PracticallyStock we built a garage in 59 sold it in 17 . My brother died about a year after we retired so I went back to work for the people that bought it. It just wasn’t the same. It’s hard to take orders when you know it’s not going to help so I retired for good about a year later.

Understandable. I hope your retirement is going well!

Might have to find someone on marketplace who has a parts truck you can get them from. Or maybe try making a set. Sucks that they are not easier to find

@@PracticallyStock Yeah, my ex-fiancée used to call me "Bracket Man". Looks like it's going to be "Bracket Man" to the rescue. "Once you resort to customization - EVERYTHING becomes EASY." No biggie, it's already highly customized - narrowed and tubbed, fuel cell in the bed, twin big block radiators in the nose, and the tilt fiberglass nose (converted to lift-off). Unfortunately, there's not much room for brackets around the side tanks given the way the tubes come out the ends of the tanks. Some thick aluminum sheet metal, some quality time with the aviation shears, a few holes and a couple of bends, and I should be good to go. I can use the screws from the "with AC" brackets.

I though I got it from my service manual, but I can't find the info now. I think I bought 3 quarts of synthetic 75w-90 but I won't swear to it. If the old fluid looks really gross like mine did, you may be better off going with the cheapest cheap oil for a few quick oil changes just to flush it

@@PracticallyStock Manual states 80w-90 which is what I ordered.

The bog/violent missing right off idle was being caused by a faulty TPS. The TPS had a dead spot and would trick the computer into cutting fuel and freak the whole system out. The video shows how I tested the new and old TPS

Thanks for letting me know it helped, made my day. Glad you got it going again

Thanks! Yeah I can't believe how these rust. I'm going to put what will hopefully be a fairly stout 350 chevy in it. The transmission is a 6 speed manual from a 94 corvette so it should cruise at 75 about 2200rpm even with the 3.90 rear gear. I have a video on locating the trans and engine already out but the video for the motor is probably still a month or two away. I hope you and your grandson have a good time working on your Z!

@PracticallyStock wow your z is going to be a beast I had a 89 corvette with the multi-port fuel injection and it was very fast . That is awesome. I can't wait to see your z with finish.

Nice, hopefully yours is less rusty! Thanks for the feedback

Good chance that's what happened

We were just getting the car going for the owner. They were trying to get rid of stuff, I don't remember for certain what it sold for but I want to say 8k???

I forget how long it had been sitting but I'm pretty sure it was less than 10 years so we weren't concerned about bad gas. Usually I give it a smell and that hasn't led me astray yet lol

I'm not sure it matters one way or the other. I like the rod towards the top so it doesn't get as much road debris on it and potentially wear the seal out faster

Congrats on being mostly done! I hope to be there someday lol. I'm not aware of any specific gauge sets for Z's like the one you mention. I bought the universal green bar graph set from Intellitronix which included the gauges, black acrylic, and most of the hardware. This project was a bit of an undertaking and there are definitely improvements that can be made over how I did it. The fitment and gauge centering is also not fantastic. If the files and everything are good, I can try printing another set. I'll let you know how that goes

​@@PracticallyStock how has that gone? 🤔

​@@PracticallyStockdid you get it printed yet boss man? 🤔

Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed

@dragonxxx285 Sorry, I didn't get a notification you had replied. Shoot me an email at dreamteampro.e@gmail.com and I'll give you some more info on the prints to make sure they are what you want. I do have a set printed

Nice. Only issue I've had is if the pump is not used for a long time (numerous months), something dries in the pump and prevents it from turning. I took it out and tapped it on the ground which knocked out the dried stuff and that fixed it

I don't know but I doubt it, we got this car going as a favor to someone and never heard about the car after it got picked up

​@@PracticallyStockcheck pliz ....

I would if I could, I don't have a way of reaching the owner

@@alendovzan6768 I have one for sale. Almost complete. Parts are all included. Just needs to be completed. 1 Kilometer on the odometer. Central Valley California

The one I had was bad so I replaced it. I think they are specific as the new one is labeled R134. I bought mine through advance auto and it blew out after 9 months, they warrantied it so I get to see how long this new one lasts

If I said that, I misspoke. It pressures the tank to 100psi but the cool old gauge on the regulator only reads to 30psi. I fixed the compressor since a working compressor is easier to justify keeping, but I don't use it for much. I've used it a handful of times (blowing stuff off and running a die grinder) when I couldn't use the 220V compressor and the tiny husky was too small. The sound it makes it fantastic compared to a more modern compressor

@@PracticallyStock I absolutely agree about the sound, I picked up one like your vintage compressor because I was hoping for a quieter compressor to replace my craftsman oil less, but it is just not big enough to do what I want. Good stuff, thanks.

I don't think I could do that with any accuracy or significant rework. I would say if you are capable of installing them, you shouldn't have much trouble making them. These were the first ones I had done and there might be a better way of doing this but here was what I did: - Cut back to solid metal and made it a reasonably easy shape to patch. Make sure you don't cut through something you want to save. - Take measurements of now open area - Cut patch to those measurements adding about a 1/8 - 1/4 inch on each dimension since it's easier to trim than add metal - Install patches using a "stitch" weld method and cool with air as needed. I think all I used was a grinder (cut off disk, wire brush not a disk, and a flap disk), ball-peen hammer, basic fluxcore welder, tape measure, and a vise. Seriously, wear glasses, gloves, and hearing protection. Only surprise I had was I kept finding rust.

Crazy how these cars rust, at least they are fun

If it's not coincidence maybe the oil had too many miles on it or was diluted with gas?

@@PracticallyStock she was burning oil over time. No biggy

That's a good idea

Kinda where this one is at, but I bet it still has a long life the way it is

You should be able to get the specific manual for your car here www.xenonzcar.com/s130/fsm.php

here is a link: www.amazon.com/MyParts-AC-Condenser-Compatible-52456127/dp/B097PYG9BG That listing says the number you listed is compatible with the one I listed but I don't know what the different is between the two. Make sure it has the correct style of tubes as I mentioned in the video because the number you have may be for the OEM condenser

I think this is what I used, if you have a different system then parts and quantities may change. Double check you have the same compressor since I think there are 2 that look like mine. I think I looked at the total system oil capacity and used that for the R134 oil but again double check that since it's been a year since I did the work. - 8oz of PAG 150 compressor oil - Universal set of green AC o-rings. The new lines should have most of what will be needed. - New flexible AC lines. (I used Rock auto) - New Accumulator (I used Rock auto) - New orifice tube. The ones I saw were recommended for both r12 and r134 (I used Rock auto) - New low pressure switch (Whatever one Advance Auto had) - Kit with conversion fittings (the car already had them installed but most parts stores or Amazon should have them) - Compressor o-ring kit (Santech MT2119 through Orielly's) - Condenser (MyParts PA-4823653 through Amazon) - I think mine took (3) 12oz cans but don't remember for certain, I charged it until the pressures were correct for the ambient temperature. Hope that helps, Thanks

Hopefully the rust isn't too bad, my 280 (not the anniversary one) had rust front to back

R 12 expension valve replace with r 134 valve

This system uses an orifice tube instead of an expansion valve, the orifice tube had the same part number for both refrigerants. Ideally you would want to change to the correct one for the refrigerant if one is available

Ok sir thank you 😊

You may want to check and see how the compressor is lubricated. If it's lubricated by mixing oil into the refrigerant, the old R12 oil likely won't atomize into the R134 and can cause compressor damage

For sure, working AC is definitely worth having

Thanks!

Definitely a possibility. Thanks! Glad you like the video

Thanks! The 3D printer definitely opens some doors

I am not sure where it came from. You can search for one by the hose inner diameter you are using. I am not sure this is a good fix but theoretically I think it works. The check valve just needs to hold up to the temperature, normally close itself, and open with minimal pressure. Best of luck and hope it goes back together smooth