I thought you could connect the auto to manual vss, wire the inhibitor for reverse and bridge the park cutoff and just throw the manual memcal into the auto ecu.
You can modify the auto wiring to work in a manual, but there’s a lot of extra wiring that just sits under the car. So this is a neater option and the proper way to do it. Also, VY ECU’s don’t have a removable memcal like earlier commodores. So you have to either still run an auto ECU, or run a manual ECU with an auto wiring harness. Best way to do it if you want a manual, is to run a manual harness with a manual ECU as that’s the way it was meant to be. However, if you can’t get those parts then there’s always other options. But if you can get them, use them. Because they are super easy to change anyway, just need to program it
Being a Calais makes no difference to the wiring harness, but being supercharged it does. The supercharged loom is a bit different to the Ecotec loom, and supercharged commodores never came manual. However, You can make an Ecotec harness work on a supercharged motor but it involves you modifying the loom. You absolutely do need a scan tool, and a good one at that. Most basic cheap scan tools can only read and clear codes. You need one that can do programming
Hey mate. I’ve got a ls1 vy Calais and I’ve got a manual conversion for it. However the car that the conversion come from did not have the climate control like the Calais does. And I was wondering if I put the manual harness in will it still work?
Yep you’ll still be fine. The engine ecu only controls to power train (engine and gearbox). The body control module is what operates your climate control, dash, and all your electronics. It was a similar scenario in my drift car. No Calais ever came manual. I manual swapped mine, used the manual harness and ecu, and everything works as it should. The only thing is on the gauges you have the little display that shows what gear you’re in with an auto. Sometimes you can’t deactivate that when you manual swap them. My Calais has this issue. So it still shoes the PRND21 on the dash even though it’s got all the manual stuff in it.
Great videos mate, I just finished a rebuild on my VZ alloytec, after having the engine come off the hook and smashing the sump, I got it replaced and back in the engine bay to find my Tranys oil pump was stuffed. Local wrecker is selling a complete 6 speed conversion with harness, pedals, master cylinder, drive shaft BCM and key etc for $1500 so I'm now on this journey myself because in all honesty I hate autos. These videos are giving me the confidence to get this swap done right. If I replace the BCM and Key I should be able to turn over with no issues right?
Thanks heaps for watching mate. Sorry to hear about the journey you’re on but at least you’ve scored a full conversion for a great price The bcm is linked the ecu. If he has supplied you with both an ecu and a bcm with keys, then the car will start. But if you using your original auto ecu, it won’t. I’d always recommend using a manual ecu over an auto one anyway as they do drive noticeably better. There’s subtle changes in them that make a difference
Hi mate I’ve just tried taking my car to auto elec and linking the new ecu, it all linked up correctly however once the manual ecu was in it would start and turn straight off, could it be that it’s a series 1 ecu and a series 2 bcm? or does that not matter seeing as it was linked?
If the harness and ecu were both installed before you tried to link them, then it should work. There is some very slight differences between series 1 and 2 ECU’s (relating to emissions etc), but nothing that you’d notice, and they both will work if linked correctly.
You can find complete conversion kits from anywhere from $700 to $1500. Then add score $120 for some new bits and pieces, gearbox oil etc on top of that
Another awesome video cheers for the commodore content
Very welcome mate really appreciate. Another vid on this car will be dropping on Saturday
I thought you could connect the auto to manual vss, wire the inhibitor for reverse and bridge the park cutoff and just throw the manual memcal into the auto ecu.
You can modify the auto wiring to work in a manual, but there’s a lot of extra wiring that just sits under the car. So this is a neater option and the proper way to do it.
Also, VY ECU’s don’t have a removable memcal like earlier commodores. So you have to either still run an auto ECU, or run a manual ECU with an auto wiring harness.
Best way to do it if you want a manual, is to run a manual harness with a manual ECU as that’s the way it was meant to be. However, if you can’t get those parts then there’s always other options. But if you can get them, use them. Because they are super easy to change anyway, just need to program it
hi mate could u link the scanner u used cheers
It’s a snap on solus edge.
Pretty expensive machine but does everything I could ever need
Can u just use a normal 3.8 vy parts if it's a callis 3.8 supercharged and do u need a scan tool or can it be done with out one
Being a Calais makes no difference to the wiring harness, but being supercharged it does. The supercharged loom is a bit different to the Ecotec loom, and supercharged commodores never came manual. However, You can make an Ecotec harness work on a supercharged motor but it involves you modifying the loom.
You absolutely do need a scan tool, and a good one at that. Most basic cheap scan tools can only read and clear codes. You need one that can do programming
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk yea alr cheers mate
Welcome mate
Hey mate. I’ve got a ls1 vy Calais and I’ve got a manual conversion for it. However the car that the conversion come from did not have the climate control like the Calais does. And I was wondering if I put the manual harness in will it still work?
Absolutely still will work mate. Engine harness is separate from the body harness, so you’ll be good to go.
@@cassarindustries_wheelwerk even if I change the ecu to the manual one?
Yep you’ll still be fine. The engine ecu only controls to power train (engine and gearbox).
The body control module is what operates your climate control, dash, and all your electronics.
It was a similar scenario in my drift car. No Calais ever came manual. I manual swapped mine, used the manual harness and ecu, and everything works as it should.
The only thing is on the gauges you have the little display that shows what gear you’re in with an auto. Sometimes you can’t deactivate that when you manual swap them. My Calais has this issue. So it still shoes the PRND21 on the dash even though it’s got all the manual stuff in it.
Great videos mate, I just finished a rebuild on my VZ alloytec, after having the engine come off the hook and smashing the sump, I got it replaced and back in the engine bay to find my Tranys oil pump was stuffed. Local wrecker is selling a complete 6 speed conversion with harness, pedals, master cylinder, drive shaft BCM and key etc for $1500 so I'm now on this journey myself because in all honesty I hate autos. These videos are giving me the confidence to get this swap done right. If I replace the BCM and Key I should be able to turn over with no issues right?
Thanks heaps for watching mate. Sorry to hear about the journey you’re on but at least you’ve scored a full conversion for a great price
The bcm is linked the ecu. If he has supplied you with both an ecu and a bcm with keys, then the car will start. But if you using your original auto ecu, it won’t.
I’d always recommend using a manual ecu over an auto one anyway as they do drive noticeably better. There’s subtle changes in them that make a difference
Hi mate I’ve just tried taking my car to auto elec and linking the new ecu, it all linked up correctly however once the manual ecu was in it would start and turn straight off, could it be that it’s a series 1 ecu and a series 2 bcm? or does that not matter seeing as it was linked?
It’s a series 2 vy and I’ve got a series 1 harness aswell, does that matter at all?
Harnesses are the same for series 1 and 2
If the harness and ecu were both installed before you tried to link them, then it should work. There is some very slight differences between series 1 and 2 ECU’s (relating to emissions etc), but nothing that you’d notice, and they both will work if linked correctly.
When you.chage new upgrade new motor for your car
When I have money mate!! And time… but mostly money
How much did it cost to do this I’m thinking of doing this
You can find complete conversion kits from anywhere from $700 to $1500. Then add score $120 for some new bits and pieces, gearbox oil etc on top of that
Awesome video mate, just a question did you use the existing keys or did you have to get new ones?
Thanks heaps mate.
It’s all done with original bcm and keys. Don’t have to change either if the linking procedure is done correctly