Thanks 👍 I was a bit taken back when I saw how much work really needed to be done with the body in order to do it right and actually have the personal integrity to not just patch something up, not disclose the real problems with the body that needed to be addressed, and let the next owner deal with it later. I was not about to do a cheap "fix and flip" One thing I will be doing is recording a full cost analysis of the build. I'll share that when it is fully completed.
Concerning the spare tire; have you considered a front fender well? I converted my left front fender to a welled one and it came out great. Also, with all of the repair work needed on the cowl, consider getting a replacement. The cost to acquire one may be less than the cost (and headaches) of repairing yours.
I have seriously considered a front fender well. But I may also run 16's so I'm still on the fence with that. On the cowl, if I could find an early 30 quick enough, I would. I haven't found one yet. My goal is to have this on the road by summer. Lofty goal I know, but that's what I am shooting for.
You seriously have a major job in your future. I'm sure you're much further ahead that we see. I'm sure you're quite worthy of presenting a wonderful huckster. Bless you.
Hi Dean! Thanks for the kind words! I truly appreciate it! Honestly, I really am not that far ahead. I currently am working on cleaning and sealing the tank so this is pretty much real time. I'm probably about two weeks ahead of the series currently. Much is weather permitting so I have been in a holding pattern due to very low temperatures.
good to see the old body being re-used. Could you not use a length of angle iron to provide extra stiffness, if your worried about the back end sagging. The sides and roof will add strength - it will the be sum of all parts rather than the individual pieces that make it strong. Good to see progress! Greetings from the UK!
Hey Austin! Thanks for watching from the UK. Angle iron is certainly a great option. But before I weld something in place, I get to get those rear shocks on first. Then, I will know exactly what clearances I have to work with.
Ken, Not sure about your resources, but we have Amish sawmills which can saw custom oak stock which would allow making each of those bottom plates in one piece. Second, I wouldn’t be concerned with the structural strength of the longer overhang - the reason why? - the vertical box sides being securely attached to these plates will tremendously increase the structural load bearing capacity. The bed floor will do likewise though not to the extent of the verticals. I assume that you are working in a hardwood such as oak. This being the case, if it were my project and knowing that all joinery had been done accurate, tight, and mechanically fastened ( quality wood screws and no scrimping on quantity used), I would have no worries with structural integrity. To my eye, the rear end of the vehicle will be more visually pleasing with the bumper extended. The extended bumper brackets can be tied into the bed with short verticals at their tail ends. This will add to the extension’s loading capacity, plus yield a bumper which be used as a step up into the bed or as a trailer hitch if in the future you wished to tow a small trailer. Any welding shop can easily extend the bumper bracket arms as required. This is a great time to add the Mitchell 😅 Yes, I know we have discussed this; just thought I’d use the occasion to apply a bit more arm twist. For me, the true beauty of the Mitchell is the synchronized split between the wide jump of 2nd to 3rd. When traveling in mountainous terrain, my roadster will pull virtually any hill by dropping down into 2nd overdrive. Easily accomplished by double clutching the main gearbox and simultaneously flicking the Mitchell lever into overdrive. 3rd over to 3rd direct to 2nd over to 2nd direct. 2nd overdrive is a beauty for hill climbing. If the Mitchell is paused in neutral during the process, the gearbox can be moved from 3rd to 2nd without double clutching. In fact, this technique can be used to drop down into 1st while on the move with no gear grinding. Great project - good luck
I have a very similar resource for white oak. And, as you suggested, I will not skimp when it comes to fasteners and other hardware. I am all about building this one right. There is an old saying I would use to the people I managed back in the day and it holds true today. If you don't make the time to do it right, when will you find the time to do it over. While this is still going to be a driver, there are some things I refuse to shortcut and building the body is one of them. As to the Mitchell OD. You really are right as it is the perfect time to drop it in. That's a huge investment and I would really have to consider the cost, but yes, you are really right on.
I'm a Mitchell fan as well. Coming from the trucking world, having the ability to 'split' gears is a tremendous asset when pulling a load with little power! 'Mo gears, 'Mo better! Hahaha 😂 I'm silly!
@@williamforbes5826 My dad was and my brother is currently an OTR driver. So, yes, I can totally relate that it's an asset and the timing is perfect. The resources, well that remains to be seen. Guess I better start selling more photography and quit playing around with this car. Wait, this channel is about playing around. Double edge sword!
@@kensmithgallery4432 Ask about the meaning of 'CDL'. You'll get responses like, 'Coffee Drinking Liar' and 'Completely Dumb and Lazy' as well as a few others (too dirty for a family friendly channel!)
I have a running, but hacked up SC and many shelves of parts. Yet, I would love to find a nice runner - almost any model. I have yet to see one that want just "cosmetically" restored with the same hidden hackery you have found. Brakes, bearings, etc. are just glossed over. Buying "the best" restoration just doesn't mean that and it might be months or years until you find this out. I just can't find a discussion of this anywhere but it's obvious. Is this just blind assumption that all is well? Keep up the great content.
I am sure there are honest people out there, but I also believe there are plenty of fix and flips. Ironically, I plan to do a video about what to look for, what to ask, and depending on the answer, what to "show proof" of. The later I believe is paramount.
Oh the hack thieves are everywhere. I found one way to catch them is to ask questions. Luckily I know A's pretty well. I did learn the hard way. Watch "restored".
Great questions! The subframe on the Fordor is basically all wood, not steel. For all practical purposes, it's a wooden cage with sheet metal nailed to it. So the huckster is basically going to be built the same way. As to the shocks, well none of them worked, hence the reason I added modern shocks to the front, and plan to do the same for the rear. The Ken Davis set was far more practical then having to get new original shocks. The arms in the shocks probably haven't worked in decades. To me, saving them just wasn't worth the hassle.
I've had a Huckster for 13 years. I built a new one 5 years ago because my first one was built by the "wizard" of Hucksters and he did a shit job. I've been a professional woodworker for 45 years, so I wanted it right. No problem with the overhang. My tailgate sits 38" past the cross member. I even have a trailer receiver in mine. For the spare put in a fender well. Don't run Firestone tires. I run Goodyear (they're round) and they fit. You might a better cowl than you have, they are around. Your gas tank looks ok though. There was a guy on Fordbarn, Terry somebody. who claims to rebuild them. After month's of trying to contact him I think he is just another fordbarn babbler. Finding the hardware is the toughest part for the Huckster. Maybe there are sources now, but I had to make most of mine. It's a great vehicle and worth the work. I'm 6'1" and I could move the seat back 6", which is nice. Have fun.
Really looking forward to your videos on this rebuild. Thanks and all the best of luck !
Thanks 👍 I was a bit taken back when I saw how much work really needed to be done with the body in order to do it right and actually have the personal integrity to not just patch something up, not disclose the real problems with the body that needed to be addressed, and let the next owner deal with it later. I was not about to do a cheap "fix and flip" One thing I will be doing is recording a full cost analysis of the build. I'll share that when it is fully completed.
Concerning the spare tire; have you considered a front fender well? I converted my left front fender to a welled one and it came out great. Also, with all of the repair work needed on the cowl, consider getting a replacement. The cost to acquire one may be less than the cost (and headaches) of repairing yours.
I have seriously considered a front fender well. But I may also run 16's so I'm still on the fence with that. On the cowl, if I could find an early 30 quick enough, I would. I haven't found one yet. My goal is to have this on the road by summer. Lofty goal I know, but that's what I am shooting for.
Yep! Lots of work! Looking good though!
Thanks 👍
You seriously have a major job in your future. I'm sure you're much further ahead that we see. I'm sure you're quite worthy of presenting a wonderful huckster. Bless you.
Hi Dean! Thanks for the kind words! I truly appreciate it! Honestly, I really am not that far ahead. I currently am working on cleaning and sealing the tank so this is pretty much real time. I'm probably about two weeks ahead of the series currently. Much is weather permitting so I have been in a holding pattern due to very low temperatures.
good to see the old body being re-used. Could you not use a length of angle iron to provide extra stiffness, if your worried about the back end sagging. The sides and roof will add strength - it will the be sum of all parts rather than the individual pieces that make it strong. Good to see progress!
Greetings from the UK!
Hey Austin! Thanks for watching from the UK. Angle iron is certainly a great option. But before I weld something in place, I get to get those rear shocks on first. Then, I will know exactly what clearances I have to work with.
Ken,
Not sure about your resources, but we have Amish sawmills which can saw custom oak stock which would allow making each of those bottom plates in one piece. Second, I wouldn’t be concerned with the structural strength of the longer overhang - the reason why? - the vertical box sides being securely attached to these plates will tremendously increase the structural load bearing capacity. The bed floor will do likewise though not to the extent of the verticals. I assume that you are working in a hardwood such as oak. This being the case, if it were my project and knowing that all joinery had been done accurate, tight, and mechanically fastened ( quality wood screws and no scrimping on quantity used), I would have no worries with structural integrity.
To my eye, the rear end of the vehicle will be more visually pleasing with the bumper extended. The extended bumper brackets can be tied into the bed with short verticals at their tail ends. This will add to the extension’s loading capacity, plus yield a bumper which be used as a step up into the bed or as a trailer hitch if in the future you wished to tow a small trailer. Any welding shop can easily extend the bumper bracket arms as required.
This is a great time to add the Mitchell 😅 Yes, I know we have discussed this; just thought I’d use the occasion to apply a bit more arm twist. For me, the true beauty of the Mitchell is the synchronized split between the wide jump of 2nd to 3rd. When traveling in mountainous terrain, my roadster will pull virtually any hill by dropping down into 2nd overdrive. Easily accomplished by double clutching the main gearbox and simultaneously flicking the Mitchell lever into overdrive. 3rd over to 3rd direct to 2nd over to 2nd direct. 2nd overdrive is a beauty for hill climbing.
If the Mitchell is paused in neutral during the process, the gearbox can be moved from 3rd to 2nd without double clutching. In fact, this technique can be used to drop down into 1st while on the move with no gear grinding.
Great project - good luck
I have a very similar resource for white oak. And, as you suggested, I will not skimp when it comes to fasteners and other hardware. I am all about building this one right. There is an old saying I would use to the people I managed back in the day and it holds true today. If you don't make the time to do it right, when will you find the time to do it over. While this is still going to be a driver, there are some things I refuse to shortcut and building the body is one of them.
As to the Mitchell OD. You really are right as it is the perfect time to drop it in. That's a huge investment and I would really have to consider the cost, but yes, you are really right on.
I'm a Mitchell fan as well. Coming from the trucking world, having the ability to 'split' gears is a tremendous asset when pulling a load with little power!
'Mo gears, 'Mo better!
Hahaha 😂 I'm silly!
@@williamforbes5826 My dad was and my brother is currently an OTR driver. So, yes, I can totally relate that it's an asset and the timing is perfect. The resources, well that remains to be seen. Guess I better start selling more photography and quit playing around with this car. Wait, this channel is about playing around. Double edge sword!
@@kensmithgallery4432 Ask about the meaning of 'CDL'. You'll get responses like, 'Coffee Drinking Liar' and 'Completely Dumb and Lazy' as well as a few others (too dirty for a family friendly channel!)
I have a running, but hacked up SC and many shelves of parts. Yet, I would love to find a nice runner - almost any model. I have yet to see one that want just "cosmetically" restored with the same hidden hackery you have found. Brakes, bearings, etc. are just glossed over. Buying "the best" restoration just doesn't mean that and it might be months or years until you find this out. I just can't find a discussion of this anywhere but it's obvious. Is this just blind assumption that all is well? Keep up the great content.
I am sure there are honest people out there, but I also believe there are plenty of fix and flips. Ironically, I plan to do a video about what to look for, what to ask, and depending on the answer, what to "show proof" of. The later I believe is paramount.
Oh the hack thieves are everywhere. I found one way to catch them is to ask questions. Luckily I know A's pretty well. I did learn the hard way. Watch "restored".
It looks like your missing the subframe. That might solve the overhang problem. Also. Why not keep the stock shocks?
Great questions! The subframe on the Fordor is basically all wood, not steel. For all practical purposes, it's a wooden cage with sheet metal nailed to it. So the huckster is basically going to be built the same way.
As to the shocks, well none of them worked, hence the reason I added modern shocks to the front, and plan to do the same for the rear. The Ken Davis set was far more practical then having to get new original shocks. The arms in the shocks probably haven't worked in decades. To me, saving them just wasn't worth the hassle.
Ken, Will you sell the originals?
@@836dmar I certainly would consider it.
If it was easy it wouldn't be fun!
That is true!
I've had a Huckster for 13 years. I built a new one 5 years ago because my first one was built by the "wizard" of Hucksters and he did a shit job. I've been a professional woodworker for 45 years, so I wanted it right. No problem with the overhang. My tailgate sits 38" past the cross member. I even have a trailer receiver in mine. For the spare put in a fender well. Don't run Firestone tires. I run Goodyear (they're round) and they fit. You might a better cowl than you have, they are around. Your gas tank looks ok though. There was a guy on Fordbarn, Terry somebody. who claims to rebuild them. After month's of trying to contact him I think he is just another fordbarn babbler. Finding the hardware is the toughest part for the Huckster. Maybe there are sources now, but I had to make most of mine. It's a great vehicle and worth the work. I'm 6'1" and I could move the seat back 6", which is nice. Have fun.
Hi Brian. I am definitely enjoying my build! Thanks for your insight and feedback!